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alphaVR
01-26-2015, 09:11 PM
Decided its time to make a thread for this car...

Bought a Brilliant Black B5 S4 over the weekend. Has 150k on it as of this writing. Traded a B5 A4 + some cash on my end for it... a pretty good deal overall. Here are the mods currently installed:

RS4 Grille
ST coilovers
AWE/GIAC Tune
Full APR Turboback
H&R Sway Bars
B&G Short throw
Bilstein Control Arm kit
EVOMS Diverter Valves
AWE Drivetrain Stabilizer
Clear one piece glass headlights w/ 6k HIDs
Dynacell Battery

http://i.imgur.com/CoKFReV.jpg

Exterior condition is good in the sense of no major flaws. Small crack in the front bumper, but otherwise clear of damage. The major exterior cosmetic flaws are the slew of scratches in the paint. Will be attempting a full wetsand, but ultimately it will get an OEM respray at some point. Interior is clean as well with no rips in the front seats. Something punctured the rear seat so theres a hole there but otherwise its clean. Thinking about upgrades here for the driver/passenger

The drive home with the car was... interesting. About an hour in we stop to fill up before stating the long leg of the journey home. We notice the coolant temp isnt getting up to full running temp... not great but no big deal at the time. We also notice the thing is a DOG... very little power to speak of given the mods it has. Fast forward another 2 hours and it starts to sleet... in a matter of 2 minutes the windshield goes from clear to almost completely iced over because the car is failing miserably to build/maintain heat (aka blown thermostat).

Ended up stopping at a WalMart to duct tape over my grills to block some cold air and help the car build some heat. It works but not as well as we had hoped, though it kept the windshield clear enough to get home. Did some scanning/datalogging to find out the N249 was unplugged, has some forwar O2 sensor codes, and boost/coolant codes (Expected). Car is making something around 4-5psi when its requesting 15-16psi. I am figuring either the thermostat is sending it into a limp mode or the N75 needs replaced... both will be addressed.

http://i.imgur.com/XzTKZP5.jpg

So, i tore apart the car because its cold here in Ohio and I sure as hell am not going to drive an S4 in the winter without any heat. And I also tore apart my B7 because apparently power steering coolers dont last forever...

http://i.imgur.com/1kJsNED.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/WL358Vx.jpg

Dug in deeper to the S4 and it looks like more than just the thermostat/timing belt need done... AC Compressor, valve cover gaskets, diverter valves rebuilt, and new silicone hoses installed.

So here's where the current parts list lies just to get back up and running...


Boost Gauge (because I need to know what this car is/isnt doing)
Timing Belt Kit from Blauparts (getting the cam/crank locks from a friend)
New N75 solenoid
New Valve Cover Gaskets... also going to have the valve covers powdercoated while theyre off
Aluminum thermostat cover
Silicone boost hose kit
Replace as many of the OEM one-time-use hose clamps with proper bolt clamps from McMaster Carr
Completely SCRUB and clean the engine bay of as much gunk buildup as possible
Fresh oil filer + Mobil1 5w40 oil
Re-adjust short-shift kit (it doesnt feel right)


Eventually I am planning on getting to these as well... and will be sure to update them as I am able to knock them out

FSI Coilpack Conversion
Custom Cold Air Intake + Heat Shield
SRM Upgraded SMICs
USP Metal Slave Cylinder Upgrade
APR BiPipes upgrade
XS-Power 3" Downpipes
APR RSC Exhaust
oCarbon Interior Trim
Interior LED kit
Symphony II Aux-In/Bluetooth


Looking forward to making this car into what it should have been. Previous owners didnt take as great of care of the car as I think they should have, but its in good hands now and Im excited to make it awesome.

JKnight41
01-26-2015, 10:09 PM
Lookin good homeslice! I dig it. Can't wait to see more! Maintenance/Over mods. I bought my s4 in similar shape. Replaced the whole AC system, gaskets, fluids, etc. as well as suspension components. Been slowly piecing together an f21 build on the side! The car is running awesome, so glad I did maintenance first. Speaking of which, I have to change my fuel filter this week! Good luck man! We are all here to help.

zillarob
01-26-2015, 10:29 PM
Diggin the project name, hit the hammer on the nail for one of these cars [:D]

alphaVR
01-27-2015, 05:19 AM
I can't take full credit for the name... my buddy has a 00 B5 S4 that hes dumped close to $20k into because he wants to go fast (E85, Water/Meth, etc) and came up with the idea of calling it that.

Im just adopting it because I *know* this car will be the death of me. lol

Ordered the timing belt kit, hose kit, and boost gauge last night. Need to source a good N75 and get the replacement A/C compressor and then I should be able to start putting things back together this weekend (maybe).

JKnight41
01-27-2015, 09:10 AM
I can't take full credit for the name... my buddy has a 00 B5 S4 that hes dumped close to $20k into because he wants to go fast (E85, Water/Meth, etc) and came up with the idea of calling it that.

Im just adopting it because I *know* this car will be the death of me. lol

Ordered the timing belt kit, hose kit, and boost gauge last night. Need to source a good N75 and get the replacement A/C compressor and then I should be able to start putting things back together this weekend (maybe).

I got a used AC compressor off eBay for 35.00 and it Works flawlessly. We will see how Long it lasts for though!! I think europaparts had the best deal on a compressor from what I can remember. But don't quote me on that!

alphaVR
01-27-2015, 09:34 AM
Ah yes they do have a pretty affordable unit. Found one at a local european salvage yard in good condition for $50... might snag that, clean it up, lube it up with PAG oil, and run it. The trouble im running into right now is finding a DIY to walk me through how to do the disassembly and reassembly correct. I've been told I should flush the compressor with new PAG oil and whatnot... but there doesn't appear to be any DIYs for this. :-\

alphaVR
01-28-2015, 01:59 PM
first part has arrived!

http://i.imgur.com/HYjwWiY.jpg

alphaVR
01-29-2015, 06:32 AM
more parts!!

http://i.imgur.com/EIDXegz.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/GFMDCDH.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/QNIPYTq.jpg

hibiscusS4
01-29-2015, 06:35 AM
good luck with the build! in for the results

alphaVR
02-02-2015, 09:31 AM
Updates n such...

- Not a whole lot done. Tore down the rest of the car needed to get to the timing belt and thermostat... ran into issues getting the crank lock pin into the block/crank. Stumped as to why it wouldnt work, we quit. I went back out a few hours later only to realize we installed the cam lock bar early and because of a slight amount of belt stretch the tdc mark on the crank wasn't 100% lined up. Backed up the crank with the cam lock off, pin threaded right in... [headbang] had I not figured that out, we were close to pulling the engine and doing everything the hard way.

- eBay silicone fittings came in over the weekend, been working on pulling the charge piping to get everything cleaned and reinstall the new fittings. The lower charge fittings a total PITA.

- Noticed that my friend who was helping me tear down the car must have broken the little plastic clip on the end of the hood release cable at the latch (not the lever - ref pic here: http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/60075_x800.jpg) Does anyone have any idea how hard it is to replace the cable/release lever? No idea if the broken one will work and would prefer not to find out the hard way...

- A/C compressor is definitely the culprit of a vast majority of the oil gunk buildup on the engine. Spent a few hours with cleaner, old toothbrushes, towels, and brake cleaner getting as much of it off as I could. Holding off on replacing the pump until later this year as I will have to take it to somewhere that can discharge and recharge the AC system for me.

- Boost gauge arrived today. Anyone have suggestions on what lines to tap into for the best/most accurate signal?

alphaVR
02-02-2015, 11:13 AM
Pics of boost gauge. I am thinking about keeping the motor connected to a constant 12v so the needle stays at 0 like a normal boost gauge would, but not sure how much draw that'd put. I imagine very little.

Also, does anyone know of a good source for the interior lights? I'd like to wire my boost gauge such that the backlighting only comes on when I turn my headlights on.


http://i.imgur.com/OrtxZZ2.jpg

Tec_Nine
02-02-2015, 01:58 PM
I see your gauge didn't come with a lolly pop

alphaVR
02-03-2015, 09:03 AM
I see your gauge didn't come with a lolly pop

It did. Not pictured because I had already unwrapped it and was giving myself a sugar infusion. lol

Did find out from AWE that wiring the gauge so that the backlighting only comes on when I turn the running lights on shouldn't be too difficult. Just need to find a circuit in the fuse block to tap into for that. Everything else seems pretty straightforward though...


The red wire from the gauge wiring harness is going to a switched 12 volt power source.
The green wire from the gauge wiring harness is going to a constant 12 volt power source.
The black wire is going to vehicle ground.
The white wire is going to the vehicles dash lighting.

alphaVR
02-07-2015, 10:03 PM
Today was fun...

Finally had a day I could work on the car and took full advantage of it. 10am to 12 midnight of work. Lots of headaches, lots of battling, lots of sitting there exhausted.

Ran into issues with the passenger cam wanting to roll over anytime I tried to use the puller to pop the sprocket off the cam. Happened about 4 times. Tools began flying with frustration. Had to figure out a way to get the puller on over the cam lock bar, along with using the old timing belt as a locking mechanism to keep the cam in place. Those things were a BITCH. Not only that, the first set of pullers were too big and wouldnt lock onto the sprocket... so I had to drive an hour to a store that had a puller that would actually work.

Other things completed...
- did a spark plug replacement (we pulled plugs after finishing timing belt to ensure we could feel any possible signs of misalignment when turning the engine). Apparently .026 is the gap for stage 2 s4's? Im used to my 1.8t and 2.0t FSI engines where running a .040 gap is more the norm...
- Cleaned as much of the timing system as possible. Figure I may as well to be sure Im able to spot any future leaks
- Valve cover gaskets are definitely next on the to-do list... looks like theyre seeping a little. Not anything to be alarmed over, but need to be done
- Scraped clean the entire surface of the water pump gasket... if that leaks anytime soon im going to be PISSED. The thermostat manifold too...
- Did an oil change. I know some people arent a fan of Rotella T6, but I have an overabundance of it in the garage so theres that.

Hoping to have everything buttoned back up tomorrow enough I can fire the engine. Even though I dont have my DVs, I think I should be able to at least start the car to ensure its running right, along with bleed the coolant system and check for leaks.

Im also hoping all this work takes care of my boost issues... I have a used N75 handy ready to go, but need to test the N249 to be sure thats alright too.

Tjtalan
02-07-2015, 10:21 PM
Next time leave the timing belt on and pop the cam sprockets first. You can bend a valve when it slaps like that.

zillarob
02-07-2015, 11:01 PM
Did it have one of the cheap paper aftermarket gaskets on the water pump?
Those things are mofos to clean up after they petrify to stone in there.

I always get the gasket from the dealer, they will come off clean next time you get in there.
Either the green waxy paper one for our cars or the metal one for the 3.0 will do.

Dont sweat the cam jumping. Just the valves closing and happens all the time.

alphaVR
02-08-2015, 05:16 PM
Used a razor blade and elbow grease to clean the old gasket off the block. Should be about as good of a seal as one could expect. I hope :-\

anyways, got more done today. Buttoned up all the covers, got the accessory belt back on and got the core support back on. Mounted the radiator too so I could get it connected and begin the process of filling the system with fresh G12 and ran into problems... the upper and lower radiator connections were, admittedly, a BITCH to get off. Much swearing, yanking, and prying until they came off. Looks like theyre putting up a fight again as the hoses are refusing to go onto the radiator fittings such that I can drop the lock ring/pin onto the hose. I may have to get someone over to help as I havent figured out any way to get them to go on far enough.

Other than that... slowly getting there. I know the timing belt is fine, but until I fill the system with coolant and fire the engine and don't see any leaks, I fear having to tear it back down to replace a gasket...

Current state:

http://i.imgur.com/Vog6AQP.jpg

the hose connections I was talking about:

http://i.imgur.com/VSMfVmy.jpg

Tjtalan
02-08-2015, 05:55 PM
If you look at The radiator hoses themselves, there is a plastic washer that goes inside the hose right after the rubber seal. Sometimes these get lodged, make sure it's there and it's in the right place. They can be a pain, but at least in my experience there's a reason they're being a pain. Good luck and good work everything looks great. Last thing I think it's easier to install the clip in the hose first.

zillarob
02-08-2015, 06:00 PM
Lube them up and they should slide right on.
They are keyed so you may need to rotate them a little to get the tabs to line up.

alphaVR
02-08-2015, 06:24 PM
If you look at The radiator hoses themselves, there is a plastic washer that goes inside the hose right after the rubber seal. Sometimes these get lodged, make sure it's there and it's in the right place. They can be a pain, but at least in my experience there's a reason they're being a pain. Good luck and good work everything looks great. Last thing I think it's easier to install the clip in the hose first.

Alright I'll take a look tomorrow. Definitely agree on them being a pain. Last thing I need is a major coolant leak!


Lube them up and they should slide right on.
They are keyed so you may need to rotate them a little to get the tabs to line up.

I have them started on the key... they just kinda stop once they get started. Any suggestions on kinds of lube that will be okay for a coolant system?

y3ti
02-08-2015, 06:36 PM
Just use coolant to lube the oring.

Corradovolksb
02-08-2015, 08:43 PM
Coolant will work but silicone spray works the best


2000 Nogaro S4 stage 2 K&N intake SSAC turbo back exhaust EVOMS DV's SB stage3 daily clutch 42lb injectors V8 FSI fuel pump. 91 and E85 personally tuned.

zillarob
02-08-2015, 09:01 PM
I use a little silicone also in hopes of them coming back off without dynamite next time I have to get in there.

Looks like you have the clip off, but it does help to leave it popped up and snap it on after the hose is on all the way.

alphaVR
02-09-2015, 07:15 AM
using dynamite... hahahaha its so true. grabbing some silicone lubricant tonight then. good call on putting the clips in before pushing the hoses on.

alphaVR
02-09-2015, 07:36 AM
Random side question for anyone who may know...

I have an opportunity to get a set of used RS4 injectors for an INSANELY good price from a friend. I was wondering, though... are these injectors going to be good for most any stage 3 twin turbo setup? They came off a car with a twin KO4 setup, so I know they work with those... but if I wanted to go a bit further and go for, say, a K24 SRM turbo setup, are the RS4 injectors going to be capable of doing that too?

Corradovolksb
02-09-2015, 09:17 AM
The rs4 injectors are 480cc at 4bar so they will be ok for stage 3 on pump gas but you will max them out on any turbos larger than k04s. I would say stay above 630cc if you want to run pump gas and 850cc and up if you plan on running E85 if your going k24's or bigger turbos. Better to have too much injector than not enough. You will need to upgrade your fuel pump as well.


2000 Nogaro S4 stage 2 K&N intake SSAC turbo back exhaust EVOMS DV's SB stage3 daily clutch 42lb injectors V8 FSI fuel pump. 91 and E85 personally tuned.

alphaVR
02-09-2015, 11:21 AM
Alright that makes sense. I was looking at the SRM 750cc injectors too - theyre pretty affordable for what power theyd help deliver.

The setup I want to ultimately get on this car is still fairly fluid at the moment while I still research what will and wont work for what I want. Id like to hit 400whp on 93oct and stock internals if thats doable, but i keep getting mixed signals on how possible that is. SRM K24s, JHM RS6-Rs, KO4s... im open to whatever will get me the most out of the stock bottom end *safely* but still give me plenty of potential available after upgrading internals and adding meth and possibly even e85.

Corradovolksb
02-09-2015, 12:00 PM
The 750s will give you a lot of room to make the power you want with stock internals for sure. You can make 400whp on 93oct with the right tune and close to 500 on E85 with k04s so K24s will get you there on less boost. The torque is what will kill the bottom end if the onset is too soon tho.


2000 Nogaro S4 stage 2 K&N intake SSAC turbo back exhaust EVOMS DV's SB stage3 daily clutch 42lb injectors V8 FSI fuel pump. 91 and E85 personally tuned.

alphaVR
02-09-2015, 08:54 PM
Spoke to Daz who has come on extremely high recommendation regarding my long term build. Incredibly nice guy and took the time to answer all my questions. Let's just say that he's got me sold on a setup that should be able to deliver performance on stock internals that I want while leaving me tons of room to grow. :)

in other news... the recommendation of Silicone lube for the radiator hoses was a genius one. Went on first try with barely any effort!

"started" the car... and by that I mean "barely ran" thanks to my DVs not getting here in time for the leak test tonight. But the point wasnt to have the car running perfectly, just cycle the coolant system and bleed out as much air as I could. That said, everything sounded spot on (aka the timing belt was done properly lol).

Tomorrow... install the DVs, get bumper and headlights back in, take it for a test drive, do an oil change...

how it sits tonight:

http://i.imgur.com/LLOQ5Vz.jpg

Corradovolksb
02-10-2015, 05:10 AM
Daz is bad ass and will have your car running the way you want it for sure. Glad the silicone helped it has a permanent place in my toolbox at work. Thumbs up on the first start after the Tbelt replacement it's always a nerve wracking one haha. looking forward to some vids of it ripping down the road.


2000 Nogaro S4 stage 2 K&N intake SSAC turbo back exhaust EVOMS DV's SB stage3 daily clutch 42lb injectors V8 FSI fuel pump. 91 and E85 personally tuned.

alphaVR
02-10-2015, 06:54 PM
DVs came in today. Threw them in and thought I'd get the car running officially :)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2ewV-JoK_o

Tjtalan
02-10-2015, 07:51 PM
Congratulations!

alphaVR
02-11-2015, 06:45 PM
all finished... boost is looking spot on via VCDS.

I can confirm, though, that the a/c compressor is definitely dead as defogging the windows wasnt nearly as effective as it should be

that said, she seems to be running well

https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10987006_10205937824311445_8349018315294635705_n.j pg?oh=4bc3f9a20adf408ea61afc2efeca4a4b&oe=5557F846

alphaVR
02-12-2015, 01:39 PM
Drove the car to work today to help get some miles on the car and get it to set readiness... went to fill it up and ran into a bit of a snag.

In the time it's been in the garage, I completely forgot about the fuel filling issue it has. For reasons Im still not 100% sure of, no gas pumps can pump gas into the tank constantly. They'll auto shutoff after a few seconds, meaning you have to sit there and pump it by hand, and youre never 100% sure when its full until it comes pouring out the filler neck.

I recall finding something about a charcoal filter as the cause for this issue but I cant find any of the links I thought I saved. Anyone have this problem and know how to fix it?

jbain2
02-12-2015, 04:39 PM
Drove the car to work today to help get some miles on the car and get it to set readiness... went to fill it up and ran into a bit of a snag.

In the time it's been in the garage, I completely forgot about the fuel filling issue it has. For reasons Im still not 100% sure of, no gas pumps can pump gas into the tank constantly. They'll auto shutoff after a few seconds, meaning you have to sit there and pump it by hand, and youre never 100% sure when its full until it comes pouring out the filler neck.

I recall finding something about a charcoal filter as the cause for this issue but I cant find any of the links I thought I saved. Anyone have this problem and know how to fix it?

I have a similar issue. Doesn't sound quite as bad as what you describe, but I definitely have to position the nozzle a certain way. Interested to hear others feedback. Congrats on getting her up and running!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

alphaVR
02-12-2015, 06:33 PM
Found the links finally.

Supposedly the charcoal canister is the reason for the problematic fill ups. Something to do with gas vapors not able to exit the tank fast enough for the fuel being poured down the filler neck, causing the neck itself to back up and prematurely trigger the pump's auto shutoff feature.

Canisters run about $250 retail, but can be had much cheaper second hand. Located in the hump inside the spare tire wheel well, accessed from under the car.

Ill put an order in for a used unit and give it a try.

zillarob
02-12-2015, 06:38 PM
Just dont ram the nozzle all the way in and try it. Some can be finiky beeotches to get the feel for.
Think I remember people saying that topping it off after the pump stops could be a cause of this.

alphaVR
02-15-2015, 01:36 PM
-3 degrees last night. parking lots frozen. time for donuts!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MySC3otJGAQ&feature=youtu.be

waxingmoon
02-16-2015, 03:59 PM
Congrats on gettin her running. Nice to see other locals on here, too. My 2000 S has similar problems filling up,but it seems to be more dependent on the nozzles at certain gas stations and/or the angle it's inserted at.

JKnight41
02-16-2015, 04:11 PM
Congrats on gettin her running. Nice to see other locals on here, too. My 2000 S has similar problems filling up,but it seems to be more dependent on the nozzles at certain gas stations and/or the angle it's inserted at.
Story of my life

alphaVR
02-16-2015, 05:29 PM
At some point in the near future im gonna try swapping the charcoal canister to see if that solves it. Research says yes, real-world results will say whether thats accurate.

I did find with mine if I don't put the filler all the way in and lift a bit it seems to be okay.... but I want to fix it entirely so I dont have to worry about it.

Noticed the car isnt making all the heat I think it could, so Im gonna schedule to have the heater core flushed. Little by little this car will end up being pretty awesome :)

waxingmoon
02-16-2015, 06:43 PM
Story of my life

lmao, that's a whole other can of worms. Hey,alpha did you already try bleeding the coolant system from the heater hose bleeder hole? Definitely give that a try if you haven't already. Bought mine in Nov. '13 with a stuck open t-stat also. Made for one long, cold ride home from columbus, so I feel your pain. Finally got it changed and still had no heat til I bleed the system this way.

alphaVR
02-16-2015, 07:32 PM
Is the bleeder on the lines going to/from the heater core right next to the battery?

If so, I tried, but the plastic accordion covering thing was in the way and I was too impatient to try and pull it back. I would imagine any air pockets would have worked their way out by now though, yes?

waxingmoon
02-16-2015, 09:27 PM
Yea, there is a small bleeder hole on on the hose that's closer to the passenger side. You'll have to pull back that accordion piece,loosen the squeeze clamp securing the hose, and pull it back just enough so that the small hole is past the nipple on the fitting it's connected to. Then, run the car with the heat on high for about 5-10min or until some coolant starts to come out, then it should be good.

alphaVR
02-17-2015, 05:48 AM
Alright... I'll see what I can do. When I did the timing belt, my instructions called for bleeding there, but I couldn't get the accordion piece to pull back. Might have to hack it up a bit cuz I think one of the hose clamps is snagged[:|]

Need to get cracking on installing my boost gauge... waking up in the morning to -20 outside, and it barely cracking 10 during the day isnt helping any.

waxingmoon
02-17-2015, 11:54 AM
Yea I just dropped the engine and trans back in mine after doin clutch, motor mounts, axles etc. Luckily, I finished up before it really got cold. Still must've spent >$250 just on propane for my lil torpedo heater. I actually ended just leavin that accordion piece off, think it was more trouble than it's worth anyway.

omakayd
02-17-2015, 06:14 PM
Not sure if it's been mentioned but you could try putting a piece of cardboard in between the ac condenser and the radiator to help with warm up issues.
Mine had a new thermostat on it and fresh heater core flush when I got it 2 winters ago and it never warmed up correctly until I stuck the cardboard in there.
Now it warms up in 10-15 minutes.
Helps when you have sub zero winter days. Just don't forget to take it out when the seasons change or you could overheat.

Also, in for updates.[up]

alphaVR
02-18-2015, 05:09 AM
The issue isnt the car itself warming up. Coolant temp is perfect. Whole reason I did a timing belt was due to a failed thermostat, which lead to the duct-tape covered grill on the way home from buying the car [up]

Issue is that I just didnt feel the cabin of the car getting as warm as I thought. Thinking about it now, it could have made worse by the extreme outside cold so I'll take her out again Saturday when itll be warmer to see how it goes.

Random thought since Im getting ready to install my boost gauge - what will be the easiest way to tap into a circuit for the backlighting? I want the backlighting of my gauge to only come on when the lights are turned on (like everything else), but none of the DIYs mention how to do this.

alphaVR
02-23-2015, 07:10 AM
Might have been just the extreme cold working against the heat... seemed to be fine this weekend. Havent bled it but will once it gets a little warmer in the garage.

in other news, this happened:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s85oxRuq-eg

Corradovolksb
02-23-2015, 02:07 PM
Holy crap that's loud!


2000 Nogaro S4 stage 2 K&N intake SSAC turbo back exhaust EVOMS DV's SB stage3 daily clutch 42lb injectors V8 FSI fuel pump. 91 and E85 personally tuned.

alphaVR
03-01-2015, 06:09 PM
Got the boost gauge installed. Went decently well, though I need to re-work the wiring a bit so I have more slack at the gauge itself.

Other minor complaints... need to find a way to keep the vent positioned where i want so its not falling down when I hit bumps and whatnot... also not a fan of the speed of the sensor compared to a traditional analog gauge. Would have much preferred the analog gauge but nobody makes a vent mounted gauge thats color matched AND analog. Incredibly annoying.

Beyond that... the check valve at the N249 finally broke, so I gotta order one of those, and Im ordering in a new rear speaker to get rid of the annoying blown one thats already there lol.

RicoS4
03-01-2015, 07:34 PM
Holy crap that's loud!


2000 Nogaro S4 stage 2 K&N intake SSAC turbo back exhaust EVOMS DV's SB stage3 daily clutch 42lb injectors V8 FSI fuel pump. 91 and E85 personally tuned.

Agreed! Considering the distance the video was taken from… lol

RicoS4
03-01-2015, 07:35 PM
Got the boost gauge installed. Went decently well, though I need to re-work the wiring a bit so I have more slack at the gauge itself.

Other minor complaints... need to find a way to keep the vent positioned where i want so its not falling down when I hit bumps and whatnot... also not a fan of the speed of the sensor compared to a traditional analog gauge. Would have much preferred the analog gauge but nobody makes a vent mounted gauge thats color matched AND analog. Incredibly annoying.

Beyond that... the check valve at the N249 finally broke, so I gotta order one of those, and Im ordering in a new rear speaker to get rid of the annoying blown one thats already there lol.

I had the same issue. Temp fix is to stick a penny in between… [>_<]

65efi
03-02-2015, 04:53 PM
I believe i might know what the issue is with the gas filling problem..After i had to replace my fuel pump i moved the gas tank filler tube ( believe that is what its called) and forgot to put it back in place..I went to fill the car later that day and had the same problem you have..So i went back into the tank and moved the filler tube back in place and problem was solved after that

pipe7284
03-02-2015, 05:24 PM
Might have been just the extreme cold working against the heat... seemed to be fine this weekend. Havent bled it but will once it gets a little warmer in the garage.

in other news, this happened:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s85oxRuq-eg

Sounded the same as the stage 2 i had before...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8BXeNFzHHU

jbain2
03-02-2015, 08:35 PM
Beyond that... the check valve at the N249 finally broke, so I gotta order one of those, and Im ordering in a new rear speaker to get rid of the annoying blown one thats already there lol.

Before you order a new speaker, did you check to see it wasn't just the dust shield that sits over the cone? This are glued from the factory and come off over time, rattle around and give the impression that the woofer is blown. Minor, but thought it might be helpful.

alphaVR
03-02-2015, 09:17 PM
Before you order a new speaker, did you check to see it wasn't just the dust shield that sits over the cone? This are glued from the factory and come off over time, rattle around and give the impression that the woofer is blown. Minor, but thought it might be helpful.

unfortunately already ordered a replacement. Found one in good condition used on ebay for $35 shipped, so if it turns out to not be blown i wont be totally screwed.

Just secured an EVOMS Vflow intake which should add some well deserved intake noises to the engine (although you cant really hear them lol)

seth_pwt123
03-02-2015, 10:11 PM
Hey any one on here know about tail lighting on a a4b5? I changed all my bulbs in my car and one sparked and it wont work any more is there a fuze i need to change or something like that

seth_pwt123
03-02-2015, 10:12 PM
I think i went to put one in and it was the wrong bulb and it sparked when i took it out

JKnight41
03-02-2015, 10:54 PM
Did you use a
http://weknowmemes.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/65-wat.jpg

seth_pwt123
03-02-2015, 11:07 PM
Yea still wont go on

seth_pwt123
03-02-2015, 11:11 PM
Feel like i may have blown a fuse.

alphaVR
03-03-2015, 05:58 AM
Get your own thread! lol

alphaVR
03-06-2015, 12:30 PM
got my new (to me) intake. Cant wait to see how much more intake noise this adds :D

Filter is definitely dirty. Need to clean it out some while I search for a suitable replacement.

http://i.imgur.com/Um8PbFS.jpg

alphaVR
03-09-2015, 06:43 AM
First off, not entirely happy with that intake. Install was a pain in the ass and the heat shield has nothing to support it from flopping everywhere. Definitely going to be looking into purchasing some stainless sheet metal and making my own (proper) heat shield that will be usable after I go Stage3.

In other news... clutch issues. Its fine when just driving it normally and being easy on the shifts even at redline, but if you try to really row the gears or even try to give the car a good launch, it just SPINS the hell out of the clutch. Sooooo looks like I need to find a stop-gap clutch solution until I go stage 3 next year.

Friend suggested I buy a new clutch disk and scuff/refinish the flywheel, which should be enough to allow me to be able to have fun with the car through the summer without spending a TON of cash on something that will end up getting replaced next year. Thoughts?

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_S4--2.7T/Drivetrain/Clutch/Disc/ES2581775/

Corradovolksb
03-09-2015, 09:10 AM
Bummer on the intake heat shield I thought it was supposed to be a good setup. I would replace the clutch with a new one and not just a disc. If your pressure plate springs are worn it May not hold well with the new disc and still slip. I'm running the southbend stage 3 daily and so far it's been great. It will hold the stage 3 TQ and it's good if you drive in traffic.


2000 Nogaro S4 stage 2 K&N intake SSAC turbo back exhaust EVOMS DV's SB stage3 daily clutch 42lb injectors V8 FSI fuel pump. 91 and E85 personally tuned.

alphaVR
03-09-2015, 10:36 AM
Bummer on the intake heat shield I thought it was supposed to be a good setup. I would replace the clutch with a new one and not just a disc. If your pressure plate springs are worn it May not hold well with the new disc and still slip. I'm running the southbend stage 3 daily and so far it's been great. It will hold the stage 3 TQ and it's good if you drive in traffic.


2000 Nogaro S4 stage 2 K&N intake SSAC turbo back exhaust EVOMS DV's SB stage3 daily clutch 42lb injectors V8 FSI fuel pump. 91 and E85 personally tuned.

The problem with the intake is purely 2 issues... 1) the sheild itself needs a brace of some kind to keep it in position since it doesn't truly thread into anything on the frame rail, and 2) the actual filter element needs a support of some type as its too heavy to rely on the heat shield to prop it up. Otherwise its a good intake... just poor execution on EVOMS' side.

My Stage 3 B7 A4 has a SB Stage 3 Endurance clutch and I love the way it feels. Ive already budgeted for the Ringer Racing clutch as I'll need something that will be able to hold stage 3 power but still be able to do its job if/when I decide to build the bottom end and go meth/e85. BUT Im not ready to invest that money until I have all the other parts for stage 3.

Are there any other budget-friendly solutions that'd work better in the meantime (about 1 year)

alphaVR
03-15-2015, 02:05 PM
welp.... digging into the engine more and more it seems. This time it was to remove the valve covers for powdercoating and the spider hose for the 034 upgrade. Also going to paint the Y-Pipe but havent settled on a color yet.

http://i.imgur.com/ZImBn0y.jpg

zillarob
03-15-2015, 02:23 PM
What fw/pp/clutch you have in there now?

I fear you may be between the rock and the hard place here. If it is slipping as you say, Id bet that the pp and fw are dished.
You might be able to put something like a 6 puck ceramic disk in there and let it chew its way through it, but prob better off getting them resurfaced.

My guess is it will be a few hundo more and 2x the labor to do the bandaid thing and come back later.
I think I would bite the bullet and put that $$ toward a permanent fix that only requires doing the job once.

alphaVR
03-15-2015, 06:31 PM
Yeah its not like its slipping during normal driving. It just doesnt take well to hard abuse.

As far as I am aware, I am on a stock clutch and flywheel. I think theyve been replaced once before but I highly doubt anything other than OEM was put in.

With all that in mind... I think I should be okay to ride the car out for the time being as long as I dont beat on the clutch too hard. The plan is to buy the new clutch around Christmas of this year so as long as I make it till then, I'll be golden.

zillarob
03-15-2015, 07:35 PM
No fkin way that thing is going to make it to christmas, the fun pedal will not allow that shit to happen [evilsmile]

Looks like you got the diy thing down.
If you know a good machinist, and you arent afraid of pulling the trans, you could prob get a whole new clutch in there that might just handle the power you have for about 2hundo.

GLIDN
03-15-2015, 09:51 PM
nice work so far.
Upgrading to the TFSI coils does make for a much smoother pull.

Thankfully I did not have so many issue's with my S4 when I bought it. I however was surely not welcomed with roses on the S4 ownership.
Had my fair share of little gremlins which I mostly ironed out except for the clutch pedal issue.

Keep up the work man. You will just enjoy the car every time you fixed/figured something else out and then taking the car for a drive afterwards.

alphaVR
03-16-2015, 10:44 AM
The only real "issues" this car had when I bought it was that the thermostat was broken, the charcoal filter should probably be replaced, there's a tiny rip in the back seat leather, and the paint wasn't perfect (but for a 15 year old car is clean). Beyond that, everything I've been doing has largely been preventative maintenance. Im going to table the clutch topic until later this summer to see what, if anything, changes.

On the list of immediate things to do...

- Raise the suspension (too low in the front)
- completely detail the interior... its incredibly dirty in there.
- Get the windows tinted
- 4 stage cut & polish the paint, plus a fresh coat of wax
- Replace a door speaker
- Figure out a few vacuum hoses that need replaced due to age.

zillarob
03-16-2015, 06:09 PM
Early this summer is how long I was guessing it would last.
It is a scientifically proven fact that our right foot gets heavier in nice weather. This heavier right foot can also be detrimental to clutch life [:D]

alphaVR
03-16-2015, 08:56 PM
Yeah... I think I need to prepare myself for a clutch job this summer. At least then the clutch would be ready to go the instant i get stage 3 hardware/software installed. lol

zillarob
03-16-2015, 09:47 PM
Oops, thought you were stg3 already.

You can pretty easily cobble together a b7rs4 setup for about 200.
The one I put in a buddies pjk04 stg3 allroad is holding up fine so should be plenty for stg2.

alphaVR
03-25-2015, 10:27 PM
In other news, got some goodies finished and installed today!

https://scontent-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/11080248_10206280970849894_6888058021474101787_n.j pg?oh=0e9b969d2908da197260b790dfbd5443&oe=55BC88FF

Tjtalan
03-26-2015, 12:48 AM
Looks awesome, an engine bay to be proud of.

alphaVR
04-13-2015, 10:29 PM
Still havent been able to figure out what's throwing my EVAP code other than the possibility of the check valve I reused for the accordion hose delete mod not being up to the task.

Also have been getting an odd rattling noise during engine braking <2000rpm... Not sure if its my AC comp pulley which I knew was making a bit of noise (comp is in bad shape) or something else. Its only during engine braking (read: clutch engaged and in gear). Hoping its not something worse...

In other news... bought a cheap little mod that will allow me make wot popping ruckus noises. Silly, but will be fun lol

alphaVR
04-14-2015, 09:01 PM
this should be fun lol

http://i.imgur.com/mP7KGAN.jpg

zillarob
04-14-2015, 09:32 PM
What tune do you have? I think they have some stuff on nef that will put that right in the ecu.

alphaVR
04-15-2015, 05:25 AM
GIAC Stage 2+ or whatever its called these days (original documents say 2+)

I didn't want to spend any money on a new tune right now since I was going to get a Daz stage 3 tune when I did the stage 3 setup. Nothing is for certain though. Ive looked into nefmoto and love what I see but unfortunately I don't know enough about tuning (yet) to confidently take it on myself.

Corradovolksb
04-15-2015, 06:04 AM
That wot box should work pretty good but I have never seen one in action on a 2.7 only 1.8t. Post a vid of it when you get it hooked up. I have antilag built into my tune like zillarob said so I'm wanting to know how it compairs to the wot box.

alphaVR
04-15-2015, 06:49 AM
This is my buddy's S4. Only difference is that he's running a full stage 3 KO4 setup with E85, but that should only make a minor difference.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmKlcewlgWU

Corradovolksb
04-15-2015, 07:32 AM
Nice looks like it will work well.

alphaVR
05-22-2015, 11:57 AM
Well, decided to not install the WOTBox and sold it.

In the meantime, things are changing... fast.

A friend of mine who has a E85 KO4 Stage 3 B5 S4 with a built bottom end decided he wanted out after breaking his harness again. I offered to help replace it since he's broke and wanted it done for cheap, but decided he no longer wanted to deal with it and we ended up striking a deal.

In exchange for my B7 A4 Avant plus my time/effort to do all the work and some cash, I am going to be in essence swapping engine/turbos with his S4, taking whatever others bits and pieces I need, and essentially turning his car to into my car and my car into his. All for what will amount to $3,000 out of my pocket. Im stoked.

Going to be a LOT of work... doing two full engine swaps and such... But I think in the end it will be well worth it.

Starting work this weekend. Hoping to have his car running by the end of June and my S4 running by the beginning of August.

Fingers crossed everything goes well!

okkim
05-23-2015, 02:24 AM
Next time leave the timing belt on and pop the cam sprockets first. You can bend a valve when it slaps like that.

No you can't. The valves are only going to close, there is nothing that can force the valves open.

Tjtalan
05-23-2015, 10:18 AM
No you can't. The valves are only going to close, there is nothing that can force the valves open.

Unless I am completely misinformed, when one cylinders valves are closing, another cylinders are opening.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

alphaVR
07-25-2015, 02:34 PM
So time to get this back up and running. Been driving it, mostly dailying it while I sell my B7 avant and get my subaru up to speed. Looking more likely I'll end up with a STK setup, just not sure of when.

In the meantime, here's a video i threw together of the dyno runs it did as it sits:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYfqwEw2YcM

okkim
07-26-2015, 01:38 PM
Unless I am completely misinformed, when one cylinders valves are closing, another cylinders are opening.

Take one head to your hands and rotate the cams. At one point all valves are closed (in three cylinder head, like ours) And that is the position where the cams want to turn. There is no force which could make other valves to open and others to open. Believe me, BTDT many times.

alphaVR
09-01-2015, 05:09 PM
Wow... need to stop neglecting this thread.

Not a whole lot has happened inbetween other than some maintenance items coming up.

On the list to do in the next few weeks before taking the S4 to H2Oi:
- Full 034 Density Line front control arm install
- 034 Track Density transmission mounts
- *MAYBE* Apikol Rear Diff Mount w/ Blue bushing
- Full LED interior kit
- LED trunk lighting
- LED License plate and reverse lights (I like LEDs, can you tell?)


I also managed to blow a front door speaker and one rear deck sub and was able to score OEM replacements on eBay for dirt cheap... Will be getting those installed soon.

Also, while doing some diagnosis around the engine bay for an EVAP CEL, I stumbled upon this gem:

https://scontent-lga1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/11949263_10207517005869997_495879068147841099_n.jp g?oh=b50a67fa289701d7e1dfef02a9169fb0&oe=5683EB4E

That would be the evap line that runs from the check valve at the N249 solenoid running to the reservoir in the fender. Back in march, the check valve broke as did the end of that line, so I replaced it with what should have been very good vac line. It very well may have been good vac line but it was apparently too close to the exhaust manifold on the driver side and melted...

so... I am ordering a BUNCH of new vac line and replacing everything I can see with new just to be safe.

UroTuning
09-02-2015, 12:03 PM
This is my buddy's S4. Only difference is that he's running a full stage 3 KO4 setup with E85, but that should only make a minor difference.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmKlcewlgWU

Shots fired!

alphaVR
09-02-2015, 07:53 PM
the OEM S4 HP2 brake calipers can die in a fire.

An OEM Audi 18" wheel cant even clear the calipers without a spacer. I swear these are the most absurdly shaped calipers ever.

Makes me want to order the new brake setup which should offer MUCH more clearance...

/Rant.

jbain2
09-02-2015, 09:23 PM
the OEM S4 HP2 brake calipers can die in a fire.

An OEM Audi 18" wheel cant even clear the calipers without a spacer. I swear these are the most absurdly shaped calipers ever.

Makes me want to order the new brake setup which should offer MUCH more clearance...

/Rant.


Having just done the 17Z swap, the clearance is not any different. Still have to run 5 mm spacers to clear B6 S4 Avus as well as Fikse FM-5's. Don't remember the offsets off the top of my head. If you are looking for improved clearance, you will need to go with some B6 S4 calipers. Not sure about Stoptech, Stasis, etc. The plus side on the non-floating caliper is that once you know they clear you are golden.

alphaVR
09-03-2015, 05:21 AM
I am actually going to go the OEM+ route by way of the D3 A8, aka the B5 RS4 front brake setup. Still a floating 2 piston caliper, but far greater clearance while still yielding better braking performance.

In fact, this is the PDF I recently found that convinced me to go with the RS4 front brake setup: http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.co m/B5S4-BiasChart.pdf

jbain2
09-03-2015, 05:50 AM
I thought that the B5 RS4 brakes were 8 piston Brembo's? The D3 A8 brakes are twin piston floating.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

edit... was thinking of the B7 RS4 calipers. Still have to run a massive rotor, no?

bagged_s4
09-03-2015, 09:21 AM
Where you located at in ohio and when you leaving for h2oi? I'm from lancaster ohio and will be heading to h2oi with my noggy

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

alphaVR
09-03-2015, 09:31 AM
OEM RS4 brakes are a floating 2 piston caliper, but its also the exact same brake setup that came on D3 A8's. Confirmed via Part #s. You gain a lot of braking performance by way of the massive rotor (requires 18" wheels at minimum).

I am located in the Cleveland suburbs, but I am leaving Tuesday Sept 29th at around 1pm... Doubting many others are leaving as early as I am!

bagged_s4
09-03-2015, 01:16 PM
Maybe I'll see you there unfortunately not arriving til friday do to work

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

alphaVR
09-03-2015, 01:48 PM
Just keep an ear out for a really loud 2.7T. That'll likely be me.

Going to be a busy weekend between the trans mounts, LEDs, bose speaker replacements, and getting the garage cleaned up...

Ordered some nice OEM braided vac line from 42 Draft Designs so that'll be going in the car next week.

alphaVR
09-04-2015, 10:56 PM
5 freaking hours to swap trans mounts.... Apparently they were so shot that when trying to back the top bolt out, the top part of the stock mount was spinning with the bolt. Took much PB blaster and persuasion but they finally came out.

New on left, old on right... I could physically move the old mount with just my hands...
http://i.imgur.com/6F7oPT9.jpg

Installed...

By the way: does anyone know if this looks right? The stock mounts as seen above didn't have a cap to go on the bttom, nor did the kit from 034 Motorsports include one. Some say I need it. Can anyone confirm?
http://i.imgur.com/SRIHlrE.jpg

Waiting for more car parts...
http://i.imgur.com/SApqAxn.jpg

zillarob
09-04-2015, 11:00 PM
That is a pita when that happens. Be glad it wasnt motor mount, even moar fun [evilmad]

You can use them either way.
034 says they are stiff enough that they wont flex enough for the cup/washer thing to be needed.

alphaVR
09-05-2015, 06:30 AM
Alright cool. Was worried for a bit. Thanks!

okkim
09-05-2015, 12:34 PM
It is designed to have that cup washer. Why not to use it?

aysix
09-05-2015, 12:51 PM
It is designed to have that cup washer. Why not to use it?

because jhm fanboy

alphaVR
09-05-2015, 01:34 PM
Kit didn't come with them, nor were there any on the mounts I took out of the car. If I need them I guess I'd have to find used mounts to steal them from.

JKnight41
09-05-2015, 01:41 PM
5 freaking hours to swap trans mounts.... Apparently they were so shot that when trying to back the top bolt out, the top part of the stock mount was spinning with the bolt. Took much PB blaster and persuasion but they finally came out.

New on left, old on right... I could physically move the old mount with just my hands...
http://i.imgur.com/6F7oPT9.jpg

Installed...

By the way: does anyone know if this looks right? The stock mounts as seen above didn't have a cap to go on the bttom, nor did the kit from 034 Motorsports include one. Some say I need it. Can anyone confirm?
http://i.imgur.com/SRIHlrE.jpg

Waiting for more car parts...
http://i.imgur.com/SApqAxn.jpg
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k201/JKnight41/IMG_1962_zpsmxghg6n6.jpg (http://s89.photobucket.com/user/JKnight41/media/IMG_1962_zpsmxghg6n6.jpg.html)
034 mounts ~10k. No launches or racing at all, just DD'ing. 034 Replaced after I paid for shipping, but come on... Even the OEM mounts didn't have a crack. Idk why, but they charged me 20 dollars for shipping that little thing to me. I will for sure be going with Stern next time around.

zillarob
09-05-2015, 02:51 PM
Maybe you can find somebody that bought this and get them for cheap [:D]

http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Passat_B5-4_Motion-1.8T/Drivetrain/Mounts/ES2587113/

traviswt
09-08-2015, 09:54 AM
Im glad to see you making progress on this again. Ill be following along for sure.

alphaVR
09-09-2015, 08:57 PM
So.... 034 Motorsports Track Density transmission mounts...

[o_o]

Was not prepared for how much of a difference they'd make. Literal night and day difference. No more sloppiness and that clunk on hard shifts.... but what caught me most by surprise was how much I can literally FEEL the engine revving up in the pedal box especially. Its sort of like how you can hear induction on a stock car with a good intake, but you can feel it. Its incredible!

alphaVR
09-23-2015, 08:29 PM
Ran the S4 for the first time at the drag strip. Cool night so good for the turbos. Only issue is that the stock clutch can and does suck, so my 60ft time suffers from having to slip the clutch more than I'd like to. Did a 14.46 @ 97.5mph.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OdlpKOkOets

alphaVR
02-29-2016, 06:36 AM
Been away for a while. Haven't driven the car much if at all since H2Oi. Was about to pull the engine for a clutch job and maintenance overhaul and then I stumbled onto a stellar deal...

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/t31.0-8/12771731_10208697932912435_520259281143177297_o.jp g

Mrfrench
02-29-2016, 06:33 PM
love the progress man!

I cant wait to get mine out of the maintenance stage. It is almost ready for bodywork too! That's what happens when you buy an auction car from another state :(

TheRealNap0le0n
02-29-2016, 08:04 PM
Been away for a while. Haven't driven the car much if at all since H2Oi. Was about to pull the engine for a clutch job and maintenance overhaul and then I stumbled onto a stellar deal...

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/t31.0-8/12771731_10208697932912435_520259281143177297_o.jp g

my car broke a lower control arm on a busy interstate during rush hour and I almost sold her after a bought a 2011 Q5 as a daily.... seeing these posts reminds me what I loved about this hell hole of a car platform...[drool][evilsmile][evilsmile][evilsmile]

jbain2
02-29-2016, 08:32 PM
Get er done!

Avant doing well.

alphaVR
03-01-2016, 07:31 AM
Thanks guys. Luckily adding the turbos and other hardware won't add a ton of work to the job. As it stands I was planning on knocking out as much maintenance on the engine as reasonably possible. Every serviceable/replaceable gasket, o-ring, seal, etc that could cause a leak and require another engine pull (or just be a pain in the dick to reach) is getting replaced/upgraded. Wastegate and oil feed lines are getting upgraded aftermarket parts too... and I'm diving into heat management. Wrapping my downpipes, exhaust manifolds (if I can), oil lines, and wiring where needed to keep the heat where it should be and not causing issues elsewhere. DEI and I will be come good friends.

I've also got a side project in mind for the interior of the car that I'm going to start working on. To my knowledge it hasn't been attempted so it'll be interesting to see if this works lol.




Get er done!

Avant doing well.

Great to hear! Every so often I miss seeing it. Glad it's been doing you well [cool]

alphaVR
03-15-2016, 08:29 AM
Started with the engine pull this past weekend. Having no experience doing this kind of a job before, its daunting and progress is slow. Getting the core support and misc hardware off was a breeze thanks to having already done the Timing Belt, and seeing in a video where you can drop the entire core support with radiator, fan, and headlights in one piece. Saved a lot of time and effort there.

I have a list of steps courtesy of This Link (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/568588-Ultimate-B5-S4-Engine-Motor-Pull-How-To) printed off so I can check things off as I go. It's definitely helping me keep track of all the little things I need to do.

Taking my time with everything to a) know what Im doing, and b) make mental notes for the next time I do this. Also looking at things installed to see problem areas that will need addressing. Spent about 12 hours total so far, but only maybe halfway there.

Some thoughts/notes to make mention of...


Evidently a PO of the car installed two different axle bolts on the hubs. One side had the normal 17mm allen socket, the other a 27mm socket. That was a bit of a shock.
Lots and lots of fluid residue all over. Too difficult to see where its coming from with the engine in... but I am suspecting theres a fair number of seals and gaskets that need replacing. Im worried most about my cam and crank seals...
Instructions regarding the positive battery cable are confusing. One says disconnect at alternator/starter, another by pulling the cable all the way through the bulkhead and off the frame rail. Not sure which I am going to do.
Going to attempt to pull the engine with the DPs and cats still attached. Flange hardware is rusted to shit on the connection between the DPs and cat pipes, so Im going to have to hope they'll get through without issue. If anyone knows, do I need to remove the O2 sensors as well?
Once the engine/trans are removed, does anyone know whether the car can be lowered back down and rolled if I it to? Worried about the center drive shaft mostly.
Having a 3/8" drive cordless impact would make life so much easier right now.


Taking the week off to get errands and other work done... going to get back at it this weekend. Once the engine is out and I can see what Im up against, thats when the parts will start being ordered :)

Couple pictures to share...

My favorite tool I had to buy when I did the timing belt last year:
http://i.imgur.com/WHLuLcu.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/oebIqkz.jpg

Nice to be able to get the AC out of the way without disconnecting it. Also note how dirty the engine is :(
http://i.imgur.com/wPScEkJ.jpg

A pile of plastic I wish I didn't have to keep
http://i.imgur.com/sJOYFXA.jpg

vavJETTAw36
03-15-2016, 09:42 AM
I dont see why you wouldnt be able to move the car back and forth. Wont the Driveshaft just spin? Just secure it in a manner (zip ties) that will allow it to spin freely. pull the axels completely from the front and you wont have an issue there either. The hubs will stay put I assure you.

alphaVR
03-20-2016, 06:04 PM
Engine mounts, heater core hoses pulled through the bulkhead, and the clutch slave from this whore coming out. Probably next weekend's to-do since I a lot of other errands and projects I have to attend to.

http://i.imgur.com/lrXDf7n.jpg

alphaVR
04-25-2016, 05:48 AM
did a bit of a thing today... was not fun.

http://i.imgur.com/a84NZVY.jpg

alphaVR
07-06-2016, 06:25 PM
Been neglecting this thread. Hasn't been a ton of progress. Life has it's methods of getting in the way of your plans.

Anyways, been slowly working at the engine. Split the trans off to find out that a rodent had taken residence in the bell housing. Luckily this wasn't a new inhabitant since the insulation packed into my clutch was not from my house. Unfortunately that meant its been like this since I bought the car, if not longer.

http://i.imgur.com/K4IMHNn.jpg

Then came time to get the clutch off so I can put the engine on a stand and free up my engine hoist. Managed to round off one of the 6mm allen key bolts... thankfully my friends knew a trick or two to getting it off. A 12mm 12pt socket worked perfectly!

http://i.imgur.com/kg93GSE.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/CgaCdWl.jpg

And here's about where I am now. Waiting on getting more tools to assist me with getting the flywheel off. 1/8 bolts came out with my impact. The others refuse to move. So... I need better tools for the job. Seems like a never-ending theme.

http://i.imgur.com/2eCXdMF.jpg

I did however treat myself to a new toolbox to store my growing collection of tools. The worst part is that I can easily see myself outgrowing this box. Just going to have to get creative with organization like I did with my old toolbox!

http://i.imgur.com/W6gijDt.jpg

Yes, I get a little OCD with my organization. It helps me stay sane.

http://i.imgur.com/bWbXwx0.jpg

redline380
07-06-2016, 07:10 PM
That box will not stay that clean for long!

Those bolts will come out with proper air tools, or otherwise the tool to torque the crank bolt would come in handy in that situation. Otherwise, a screwdriver/prybar placed perfectly on one of the teeth and against the floor.

alphaVR
07-07-2016, 04:48 AM
That box will not stay that clean for long!

Those bolts will come out with proper air tools, or otherwise the tool to torque the crank bolt would come in handy in that situation. Otherwise, a screwdriver/prybar placed perfectly on one of the teeth and against the floor.

Im borrowing a snapon flywheel holder tool from a friend. He claims that + a breaker bar is more than sufficient to break the flywheel bolts loose. Hopefully he's right. I just dont trust these damn triple squares lol.

And yeah... it won't stay clean but Im certainly going to try and keep it that way. Need to invest in some socket organizers to free up some extra space for additional sockets I need to buy, plus find better places to store some of the random tools I have, like 18" long torx screwdrivers (makes those outside headlight screws a breeze).

alphaVR
07-09-2016, 10:39 PM
Some progress made.

The snap-on flywheel holder didnt help me any. The turbos, oil lines, and the rest of the engine got in the way of making it effective. I am sure if the engine was still in the car with the trans dropped it would have been no problem. Ended up using a craftsman 3/8" drive air impact, of all things, to get the flywheel bolts out. Took forever to do not because of the impact's power, but a list of issues I ran into along the way with the compressor (protip: old equipment is prone to have issues)

Heres how things finally looked. Put the trans bolts back in place to start planning out where the engine stand was going to mount. Ended up using the 11, 8, 2, and 5.5 positions. Measured depths of threading in the block, matched size and pitch, and picked up Class 8.8 metric bolts.

http://i.imgur.com/Dk0Y69s.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/pKDsVCK.jpg

$15 worth of bolts, nuts, and washers later, I got the stand plate bolted to the engine

https://i.imgur.com/EFMO0AB.jpg

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand now for the fun of the day. Stand plate is bolted to engine. Stand positioned between the legs of the hoist. Come to find out the stand's leg are too wide to fit between the legs of the hoist. I'm off by at least 12"

https://i.imgur.com/ul1lFFL.jpg

So... I got creative. I lifted the engine wayyyy up high, then used my floor jack to lift the back of the stand over the legs of the hoist so I could get it on the stand plate. Once on there, I played a delicate game of "lower hoist, then lower floor jack" until... FINALLY.

https://i.imgur.com/JN51Hhi.jpg

But... the problem then became apparent that the engine needed to slide onto the stand another 1/2" so I could drop the lock pin in to prevent the engine from rotating over inadvertently.

https://i.imgur.com/q9T3NR2.jpg

All is well, right? nope... I get things situated only to find the stand plate had shifted and to lock it in place meant letting the engine sit rotated over about 15-degrees. I wasn't cool with that...

https://i.imgur.com/QctnD5g.jpg

Knowing the use of the hoist was out of the question due to the earlier issues... I tapped into my inner redneck. With the help of my dad, we used his tractor to lift the engine and allow me to reposition/tighten the bolts on the stand plate.

https://i.imgur.com/wOA015t.jpg

With the bolts torqued down, I was able to lock the engine into position on the stand. All of that (8 hours of work) just to get this damn thing on a stand. Not my best work, but its done and everything else can start.

https://i.imgur.com/l6NpeVL.jpg

Next up on the list..

- Drain transmission of fluid, disassemble shifter linkage, remove clutch slave. Prep trans for paint.
- Remove engine harness from engine
- Remove coolant crossover pipe
- Remove valve covers and Intake manifold for powdercoating
- Start the long, difficult task of scrubbing the engine bay and the engine itself.

alphaVR
07-26-2016, 10:34 AM
Does anyone have any tips/tricks for removing the oil and coolant lines from the turbo CHRAs?

christianb5s4
07-26-2016, 11:56 AM
- Start the long, difficult task of scrubbing the engine bay and the engine itself.

That alone with take up a solid half day to do it properly, it's a tough task getting 15 years of caked on dirt/oil/fluids out of every nook and cranny. The end results are so worth it.

Monty23
07-26-2016, 12:35 PM
Does anyone have any tips/tricks for removing the oil and coolant lines from the turbo CHRAs?

Typical practice is to custom grind/bend wrenches to fit.

Dfloods4
07-26-2016, 12:51 PM
I pressure washed engine bay with 4000 psi pressure washer heated to 250 degrees. Did the engine bay and trans in 20 min. Lol


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alphaVR
07-27-2016, 04:53 AM
I pressure washed engine bay with 4000 psi pressure washer heated to 250 degrees. Did the engine bay and trans in 20 min. Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The engine bay is easy. Going to roll the car outside with the propshaft and A/C compressor somehow supported. Spray down the engine bay with degreaser and/or simple green, scrub where needed, and pressure wash to finish.

The engine itself is the difficult one since it needs to be sealed up (i.e. valve covers on, intake manifold on, turbo inlet/outlets covered) and its going to be in some form of a disassembly. I may skip most of this and just focus on the obvious problem areas.

Hopefully it'll come out better than it currently is.



Typical practice is to custom grind/bend wrenches to fit.

Any more info on this practice?

CJ_
07-27-2016, 11:50 PM
Any more info on this practice?




This was mine I believe:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff244/jrcoyotes21/IMG_5894_zps2bvcok1w.jpg (http://s236.photobucket.com/user/jrcoyotes21/media/IMG_5894_zps2bvcok1w.jpg.html)

alphaVR
07-28-2016, 04:56 AM
This was mine I believe:



Well those are certainly interesting lol. What bolts are those best suited to reach?

alphaVR
09-12-2016, 06:12 PM
Well those are certainly interesting lol. What bolts are those best suited to reach?

@CJ... still interested in hearing what bolts those reach.

Life has been absolutely chaotic lately. Havent had time to work on the car which sucks, but work has been monopolizing my time.

However... I got the itch again so I did some more retail therapy. Feels great to see all these parts come in to work :) Not pictured are my new motor mounts which should be here tomorrow.

http://i.imgur.com/16T1llF.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/nAI1myh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/EVgFGWv.jpg

alphaVR
09-13-2016, 10:58 AM
Got the motor mounts in :)

Thinking about drilling the mounting brackets to fit the larger bolts.

http://i.imgur.com/8Tw9cpM.jpg

christianb5s4
09-13-2016, 02:21 PM
Just a word of caution, I have the 034 hoses on my car and some of them don't fit well (at all) around the turbo housing.

y3ti
09-13-2016, 02:47 PM
I have those mounts waiting to go in as well. Zilla made a suggestion on the hardware, just under my post.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?p=11419539

alphaVR
09-13-2016, 08:04 PM
I have those mounts waiting to go in as well. Zilla made a suggestion on the hardware, just under my post.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?p=11419539

Interesting. So essentially instead of running the stud and a nut, you are running a bolt? Whats the core issue with using the studs included with the mounts/

y3ti
09-13-2016, 09:06 PM
Interesting.

My take was that using a bolt instead of studs will help make the install easier. He also said the hardware is bunk. My mounts havent been installed yet, but when I do I'll be using the bolts like he suggested.

zillarob
09-13-2016, 09:50 PM
The bottom really isnt a big deal, but shit gets tight up top.
Tight enough up there already with the oem 13mm nut, putting a bigger one up there really doesnt make things any easier.
Many guys already have a "customized" 13mm motor mount wrench.
You can spin the mount on all the way and give the last little bit with the wrench.
Easier to put the wrench over the head of a bolt than all the way over a stud.
Bolt head gives more clearance on the larger inlets, studs often chew on them.

Those bolts are what they should have included in the kit. Much better way to put it together, for many reasons.

That was prob a lil harsh on the hardware. It is prob alright, but you really have to be paying attention and prob going to need modded to be primo.
Did have a prob trying to use the stepped studs once a long time ago. Iirc, the larger part was so long that the nut would have stopped before ever tightening onto the motor mount bracket. It was something like that anyway. That is when I started using the bolts.

alphaVR
09-13-2016, 11:05 PM
Do you drill out the mount brackets to fit the larger bolt that threads into the 034 mount? I'd assume so since their instructions imply the need to do so just to use their larger stud.

I agree bottom doesnt seem like a big deal. Top would be. Definitely going to take it into consideration... while its no big deal since my engine is out of the car, it may be worth doing to save myself future headache.

zillarob
09-14-2016, 04:52 AM
I drill them. Not removing much so easy to do, even in car.
If you have the motor out, using bolts on the bottom also makes it a little easier to get back in. Dont have to fight getting the studs in the holes when poking it.

alphaVR
09-14-2016, 05:25 AM
I drill them. Not removing much so easy to do, even in car.
If you have the motor out, using bolts on the bottom also makes it a little easier to get back in. Dont have to fight getting the studs in the holes when poking it.

Very good point. I'll have to look into doing this. Grade 8.8 or Grade 10.9 bolts aren't very expensive either [up]

zillarob
09-14-2016, 07:14 AM
Either of those should be plenty. The tougher part is finding them with the 13mm head.
Not super common on that size bolt, but should be in the brake parts at your local parts place.

alphaVR
09-14-2016, 09:00 AM
I'll measure bolt specs tonight to know what I need. I have McMaster Carr local to me so they're my go-to place for specialized hardware like this.

alphaVR
09-14-2016, 10:25 PM
I've got bolts picked out (M10x1.5 at about 35mm appoximate length) but I'll have to double check length and clearance with the mounts later on. Shouldnt cost me more than $10 to upgrade to Class 10.9 bolts for the mounts. Only concern would be whether the bolt heads fit onto the engine mount brackets. At least now I know what I roughly need.

zillarob
09-15-2016, 03:02 AM
Do they have 1"? Iirc, was a little worried the 1 1/4ish ones I used were going to be too long.

alphaVR
09-15-2016, 06:05 AM
Do they have 1"? Iirc, was a little worried the 1 1/4ish ones I used were going to be too long.

I was basing my measurements roughly off the studs that 034 provides. Oddly enough, the M10 stud is shorter than the M10>M8 stud. I'm sure the measurement will change once I get the motor mount brackets against the mount itself to determine overall length needed.

The only perceivable downside right now is the Class 8.8 and Class 10.9 bolts don't come in a metric head of anything smaller than a 14mm. Need to check how much clearance there is for the bolt head on the motor mount brackets to know for sure if these will work.

Here are the bolts I had in mind:

http://i.imgur.com/wFURoxf.png

http://i.imgur.com/vq1oBo3.png

http://i.imgur.com/PxeXmeW.png

http://i.imgur.com/AS4Oj8L.png

zillarob
09-15-2016, 07:11 AM
You have a ford dealer near? Just use the same ones I did.
They are for the brakes so no fkn around strength-wise, and have an automotive grade anti-corrosion coating.

alphaVR
09-15-2016, 11:10 AM
You have a ford dealer near? Just use the same ones I did.
They are for the brakes so no fkn around strength-wise, and have an automotive grade anti-corrosion coating.

near-ish. Have a part# laying around I can reference? The only potential issue is you mention those Ford bolts are M8, but the 034 mounts are M10, so they wouldnt work.

zillarob
09-15-2016, 12:23 PM
Hmm, I may be smokin crack on the size then. Whatever they are, they are perfect.
I think i stole them when a buddy was working on the front brakes of like an 05 freestyle. Iirc, they hold the slider pins.
Guessing they are similar to the bolts for the s4 rear calipers and come with the brake pads.

Maybe ask a tech if he has any in his mystery hardware bucket. I know I hoard all the take-off hardware, just in case [:D]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/neoJNijndeD_-N5aDQ6qhCisEX-daNRqzH--jfUNPLVw6vRAfHaUbcZfNeZAbJyCDnOEz7qYgkHEInKX_jlJcG jlekrMR6LOCPBKvDExZKCuyRTgdukzvAC7D2NQzid1BJdEHx8F cLurX_E4U2IdEvJaD5VNOuip0jVaYojzM0imzCK7z62JoLu9nW lQNoe-yBPXj9M2TMyMUMv4nWsVrseFkM0BZL6T9JNM_LWt3AoK6CsBUs 87ZKc_eazofOJAbCfCiWm15z-iBG--oKsNLhQXDyik3z652TndLuB75dDLRGfRKxPiwUayGXP4pItZIs XLHnrdhJcgVsf1vUc0yksUFHgPneZGaTNLzyvIZRokNn6SXyhp EwZycAK9Kd9eOPACvCPajaLZ1nKkeeZHc5oQvixEVAu9EfQt0o gr8BeTWa-azJ64uFij8hyV4OZ4uE9vK6P2o_yzup4TiPdiISRUAwlvf0e2z uPv-8jiUZW8gHWhm5IP3C8HFRJhcaUok9qNoXmXG0UANhW5OV3yNf2 OQ79Gc-hFfOlJIKDXvLgUfjkZLwvY1kMCILe1bOSs8nyMTCtpgakCWIJ1 9hjriNZfISaufLYVxe090Uqg_yXVGkz-=w558-h747-no

mikeb17
09-15-2016, 01:04 PM
Hmm, I may be smokin crack on the size then. Whatever they are, they are perfect.
I think i stole them when a buddy was working on the front brakes of like an 05 freestyle. Iirc, they hold the slider pins.
Guessing they are similar to the bolts for the s4 rear calipers and come with the brake pads.

Maybe ask a tech if he has any in his mystery hardware bucket. I know I hoard all the take-off hardware, just in case [:D]

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/neoJNijndeD_-N5aDQ6qhCisEX-daNRqzH--jfUNPLVw6vRAfHaUbcZfNeZAbJyCDnOEz7qYgkHEInKX_jlJcG jlekrMR6LOCPBKvDExZKCuyRTgdukzvAC7D2NQzid1BJdEHx8F cLurX_E4U2IdEvJaD5VNOuip0jVaYojzM0imzCK7z62JoLu9nW lQNoe-yBPXj9M2TMyMUMv4nWsVrseFkM0BZL6T9JNM_LWt3AoK6CsBUs 87ZKc_eazofOJAbCfCiWm15z-iBG--oKsNLhQXDyik3z652TndLuB75dDLRGfRKxPiwUayGXP4pItZIs XLHnrdhJcgVsf1vUc0yksUFHgPneZGaTNLzyvIZRokNn6SXyhp EwZycAK9Kd9eOPACvCPajaLZ1nKkeeZHc5oQvixEVAu9EfQt0o gr8BeTWa-azJ64uFij8hyV4OZ4uE9vK6P2o_yzup4TiPdiISRUAwlvf0e2z uPv-8jiUZW8gHWhm5IP3C8HFRJhcaUok9qNoXmXG0UANhW5OV3yNf2 OQ79Gc-hFfOlJIKDXvLgUfjkZLwvY1kMCILe1bOSs8nyMTCtpgakCWIJ1 9hjriNZfISaufLYVxe090Uqg_yXVGkz-=w558-h747-no

I'm dying 😂 Extra fancy mixed nuts

alphaVR
09-15-2016, 03:50 PM
Hmm, I may be smokin crack on the size then. Whatever they are, they are perfect.
I think i stole them when a buddy was working on the front brakes of like an 05 freestyle. Iirc, they hold the slider pins.
Guessing they are similar to the bolts for the s4 rear calipers and come with the brake pads.

Maybe ask a tech if he has any in his mystery hardware bucket. I know I hoard all the take-off hardware, just in case [:D]

LOL

I think I've got a good part# so Im gonna buy one and double check fitment. If the thread size/pitch is correct, the only question would then be length. I'll hopefully have an answer for that this weekend, if not next.

zillarob
09-15-2016, 04:07 PM
Lengthwise I was a lil nervous that they would be too long, but they fit without shortening them or anything.

alphaVR
11-06-2016, 07:07 PM
I'm still alive. Just been soooo damn busy. It's crazy to think how fast time has gone... seems like every weekend till just the last week or two I've had plans thats kept me out of the garage. Progress? There's been a bit...

First off, got these from a forum member here (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/712606-Audi-S4-B5-honeycombe-front-bumper-grilles/page8). Bit of an impulse buy, but considering they were a limited run and will drastically change the front end look of the S4, I had to have them.

http://i.imgur.com/hK2kdqY.jpg

Since I had removed the turbo inlets to prep for removing the turbos themselves, decided to go ahead and drop the engine mounts. EPIC laughs had when I got to see officially how FUCKED they were. Just a little worn out...

http://i.imgur.com/ghnkMYr.jpg

Then on to the real progress... What started as removing the turbos turned into removing the coolant crossover pipe which turned into removing the intake manifold, which then turned into removing the coolant afterrun pump. Got the driver side turbo out without TOO much issue... Passenger turbo will have to wait as I need longer allen key sockets to clear the manifold tube. Should have that Tuesday. Pretty close to that point where I'll finally stop taking things off the engine and instead putting things back on. Hoping I'll be neck deep into that by Thanksgiving.

http://i.imgur.com/mnvIYbX.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HB5yG1Y.jpg

alphaVR
12-05-2016, 06:28 PM
Minor progress...

First things first - I recently purchased the new Google Pixel XL phone... and let me tell you this thing takes AMAZING photos. Hoping this will make me inclined to take more photos along the way to show progress and what the camera is capable of. Anyways...

Id like to give a big hearty FUCK YOU to AWE and the DTS bar. The product itself is fine, but the choice to not use corrosion-resistant bolts along with making the tolerance between aluminum block and bolt almost nil is poor at best. It leaves itself prone to galvanic corrosion (dissimilar corrosion) which meant i snapped BOTH bolts. Took an entire can of PB blaster and 30 minutes with a propane torch to heat up/expand the aluminum to free it of being seized. Funnily enough - the bolts (or what was left of them) backed right out of the trans no problem... So when I get my new AWE DTS, I will be ordering special bolts and coating them in anti-seize to prevent this from happening again.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5621/31448621675_78f7c4f8df_b.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5554/31448618865_c87690bfa9_b.jpg

Got the 2nd turbo off, but have no idea how to get the fluid lines off the CHRA... Calling in a friend to assist later this month as I have neither the tools or patience to figure it out right now :-\

https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5818/31448625335_29b8074fd9_b.jpg

The folks over at Integrated Engineering were awesome and let me order new coilpack spacers in raw aluminum even though it wasn't an option on their website. Should look nice on the valve covers once theyre done.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5564/31411806776_27b5066e28_b.jpg

What the floor of my office look like right now. Too many parts laying around... not enough being installed :(

https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5550/31411805276_21aa36bdb9_b.jpg

Side note.... went to town on my transmission to prep it for primer paint. Not necessary at all, but it'll be nice to look at hahaha

alphaVR
12-08-2016, 05:22 AM
Hopefully this is the end of "Disassembly"... I need to figure out how I am going to get the crankcase valley breather off so I can replace the gasket and clean up the breather itself. The one hard coolant line the afterrun coolant pump mounts to cant be removed as I can't seem to get the upper radiator hose off. I have a spare so, if necessary, I'll cut it out.

Recently purchased a McCollouch steam cleaner and I am thoroughly impressed with it thus far. Great purchase and with the 20% off coupon you can get from Harbor Freight, by far the most affordable option out there. Need to invest in a LOT more scrub tips as I went through the brass wire tip and most of a long bristle tip. That said the results are encouraging. Unfortunately too much in the way or too tight of crevasses to reach all the grime, but the bulk of it has been taken care of. Only did the top half of the engine as it was needed ASAP.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/375/31353652772_9856ba20c9_b.jpg

With the top half cleaned, I went ahead and pulled the valve covers. Gaskets were already getting replaced, and it became abundantly apparent that the tensioner gaskets were also leaking, so the VCs needed to come off and then get to my powdercoater ASAP. Hoping he'll have them done by the holidays.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/449/31462420496_2d598af3bb_b.jpg

This was the highlight of the evening. 2 years ago I did the VC gaskets and a friend of mine helped me install them. He "modified" the passenger VC gaset where it goes over the tensioner because, and i quote, "the gasket was a bit wavey and wasn't going to sit flat... so I cut a small bit out". Should be noted that there was RTV on every inch of the gasket (not sure if that's how it should be done), and about 12 of the 16 nuts holding the VC gasket down were so lose my ratchet spun them off before I was even ready. Goes to show that even friends you think you can trust sometimes can't... sigh. At least I know now what NOT to do.

https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/538/30665101654_521dd2dc1f_b.jpg

alphaVR
12-08-2016, 10:28 AM
Got tired of switching between 3 different posts with information on the DIY ICM delete/coil conversion. Made a consolidated guide and decided to make it available for anyone who's interested.

Click here to download the PDF outlining the wiring needed to perform the modification (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8so5wuE_KCHZUhyT19Ua0ZQUU0)

dotworks01
12-11-2016, 08:58 AM
Great Build [up]

alphaVR
12-12-2016, 09:06 AM
When there's no chance to get more work done, order more parts.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/270/31563536946_02dc468f68_b.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5614/30791194833_61af146b0a_b.jpg

https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/594/31563537236_24413a0607_b.jpg

https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5613/31563539276_f0095d9f0a_b.jpg

passamj20
12-12-2016, 06:51 PM
Nice, went with f21s then lol

alphaVR
12-12-2016, 10:45 PM
Nice, went with f21s then lol

Ive had them since the beginning of this... but decided to order new turbo inlets since the ones I had looked pretty haggard. Glad I did as these new ones look nice.

alphaVR
12-28-2016, 01:23 PM
Staging all the parts... Not everything is pictured (trans fluid, VC gasket kit, turbos) but its enough...

https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/621/31135073813_c7fda16908_b.jpg

christianb5s4
12-28-2016, 04:37 PM
That's awesome, looks similar to my parts before the build. Pretty amazing how much stuff there truly is when it's all laid out!

alphaVR
01-04-2017, 05:15 PM
Haven't really shared this anywhere else, so consider yourselves special :D

https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/551/31269580454_3a69290610_h.jpg

JustManson
01-04-2017, 07:47 PM
Haven't really shared this anywhere else, so consider yourselves special :D

https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/551/31269580454_3a69290610_h.jpg

That is beautiful!


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

jbain2
01-05-2017, 04:18 AM
Very nice. Candy apple red?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

alphaVR
01-05-2017, 06:44 AM
Pretty much, yes. It looks fantastic and I can't seem to capture the real pop of the color well. Exciting for how it'll look once everything is back onto the engine.

alphaVR
01-07-2017, 12:03 PM
I like this. Should look great once everything is back onto the engine.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/637/32168480975_538aef466f_b.jpg

slowSfaux
01-07-2017, 12:23 PM
Looks really good. I like the contrast against the black im.

alphaVR
01-09-2017, 09:34 PM
Not the greatest job ever wrapping these pipes, but function > form

If I had to do it over again, I'd cut the 2" strip down to two 1" strips as that'd make it a LOT easier to wrap through the complex bends.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/624/31412294503_5ddc51f776_b.jpg

vavJETTAw36
01-10-2017, 06:11 AM
Not the greatest job ever wrapping these pipes, but function > form

If I had to do it over again, I'd cut the 2" strip down to two 1" strips as that'd make it a LOT easier to wrap through the complex bends.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/1/624/31412294503_5ddc51f776_b.jpg

How much did you need to do this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

christianb5s4
01-10-2017, 09:37 AM
From experience, I'd trim back the gold tape at the ends of the pipe where you'll be using the silicone couplers. A roll of 2"x30' (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039Z1V1K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) is all you need.

vavJETTAw36
01-10-2017, 10:02 AM
From experience, I'd trim back the gold tape at the ends of the pipe where you'll be using the silicone couplers. A roll of 2"x30' (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039Z1V1K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) is all you need.

Thank you fine sir


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

alphaVR
01-10-2017, 10:29 AM
I bought the 2"x30' roll and have plenty left over, actually. Will have to measure how much exactly but its enough to consider possibly wrapping other things. May tape the bottom side of the y-pipe after I repaint it to help minimize heat soak. Also have a 12"x12" sheet I bought for cheap that I can use as well.

alphaVR
01-11-2017, 09:11 PM
Another first for me... could have been a little cleaner but it'll work. Tightening those tie straps can be a real PITA if you don't know what you're doing (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kf8oIF_3s4E)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/781/32259734075_390e10f756_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/461/31449660063_23ca7fc20e_b.jpg

vavJETTAw36
01-12-2017, 06:15 AM
I did my downpipes with this as well and if I were to do it again, even though dei tells you that you don't have to, I would have sprayed over the wrap with the silicone wrap spray to keep it from fraying over time. Mine has done exactly that. Not a huge deal but I am sure when I pull the engine again that it's gong to be somewhat of a mess


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alphaVR
01-12-2017, 08:16 AM
Did you wrap yours in the Titanium exhaust wrap or no?

Also, a HUGE key to installing the wrap correctly is to make sure the sewn edge of the wrap is the uncovered side. This combined with wrapping the downpipes such that the sewn edge is always facing the back of the car should mean it lasts quite a while and prevents abnormal wear like you're saying.

jbain2
01-12-2017, 06:36 PM
Did you wrap yours in the Titanium exhaust wrap or no?

Also, a HUGE key to installing the wrap correctly is to make sure the sewn edge of the wrap is the uncovered side. This combined with wrapping the downpipes such that the sewn edge is always facing the back of the car should mean it lasts quite a while and prevents abnormal wear like you're saying.

Don't you guys worry about the effects of added moisture and accelerated corrosion wrapping downpipes?


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c4andmore
01-12-2017, 07:40 PM
Don't you guys worry about the effects of added moisture and accelerated corrosion wrapping downpipes?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was going to point out that the corrosion issue is very real and many sources now recommend that no wrap be used precisely because of this. What seems to work well is thermally reflective material in the areas where the ex. pipes run. Some of the ceramic type coatings applied to the outside of the pipes reduce radiated heat and last as long as the pipes. Calico, Swaintech and others provide this service for everything from pistons to cyl. head ports/chambers to exhaust and much more.

slowSfaux
01-12-2017, 08:28 PM
Don't you guys worry about the effects of added moisture and accelerated corrosion wrapping downpipes?


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For longevity of the product, of course the manufacturer would recommend not wrapping. I'm all about sacrificing downpipe life to prolong the life of everything else under the hood.

Honestly, you can replace ssac downpipes every other year for less than the cost of one power steering hose.

alphaVR
01-12-2017, 09:11 PM
Let's not forget that these downpipes aren't aluminized metal. Theyre still stainless steel which will always develop an amount of surface corrosion that might appear to be "bad" but is just part of how the metal works. Stainless steel pipes, even those used by SSAC/XSPower/etc., will last far longer than you realize. 304 Stainless Steel is said to be so good that it could outlast the car itself before failing.

So while "added moisture" may be a concern, it won't affect the steel of the exhaust pipe at an amount worth worrying over. For a fraction of the cost swaintech wants for their coatings, I can do it myself, replace it at nearly any time, and yield relatively similar results which is all I am after.

vavJETTAw36
01-13-2017, 05:44 AM
I was going to point out that the corrosion issue is very real and many sources now recommend that no wrap be used precisely because of this. What seems to work well is thermally reflective material in the areas where the ex. pipes run. Some of the ceramic type coatings applied to the outside of the pipes reduce radiated heat and last as long as the pipes. Calico, Swaintech and others provide this service for everything from pistons to cyl. head ports/chambers to exhaust and much more.

But the main issue is not really moisture on the surface. The real issue is how the metal gets brittle from the added heat by trapping it from escaping (exhaust wrap). I've read this is a huge issue in the aviation industry.

But like one said above, you can replace these for a few hundred bucks which is nothing compared to even damn coil conversion :D

And alpha, I did use the dei titanium. I didn't notice the sewn edges so that could possibly be my issue. Whatever, it's much better than any heat shield in there :D


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alphaVR
01-23-2017, 05:16 AM
Decided recently to enlist the support of my friend and the shop he runs to help get this done in time for a couple events I am going to early in the spring. While I could get this done, it wouldn't be fast enough. He's got all the tools I don't have yet, and more importantly the time, to get it done so it'll help a ton.

That requires moving almost everything I've accumulated over to his shop. Which in itself was a challenge seeing how I've been borrowing my friend's engine hoist when I needed it. Had to make do with a more "bigger hammer" approach to the problem....

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/489/32440011016_8be9a47444_b.jpg

Loaded up a total of 4 storage bins and 4 boxes in addition to the engine itself. There's at least 1, possibly 2 more, storage bins worth of parts that need to be moved (mostly engine plastics). Yes, I strapped the engine down after this pic, for those concerned lol. Didn't need it going anywhere other than to my buddy's shop.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/615/31669006603_c415dc4024_b.jpg

Also got some of the modifications to the shifter linkage done. Only need to get bigger snap-ring pliers to finish putting together the new shifter itself. Definitely excited to put this to use seeing how FUCKED the existing hardware was. So far very impressed with the build quality of the JHM shifter parts

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/579/31669079303_39c4829c9a_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/666/32480594015_a5c121261e_b.jpg

alphaVR
01-23-2017, 08:49 PM
Got the shifter assembled. Again shocked at how completely fucked the OEM plastic ball was... sloppy is putting it nicely. Should feel great when everything is installed. One step closer...

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/409/32115539250_051be76a33_b.jpg

alphaVR
01-26-2017, 06:09 PM
More parts came today!

New AWE DTS and OEM red top coilpacks. Got the coilpacks on sale from USP for $23/ea... by far the cheapest price for OEM units.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/751/32165601680_cb928bed42_b.jpg

But lets take a moment to discuss the issues with AWE/DTS Bar... First the shoddy packaging, namely the tape which was barely even half on the seam of the box.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/541/32165611840_dc3885093c_b.jpg

Then onto the DTS itself. Which as you can see the threads are CAKED with what I assume is the rubber mount material. Also, I have absolutely no clue as to why this bolt was threaded into the middle hole. Nowhere in the instructions did it mention this being needed. Strange...

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/762/32165609160_360d746716_b.jpg

Upon inspection of the allen key bolts, whoever supplies them is rather low quality. Key of the bolt isnt even centered on the head.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/664/31701129164_247d78993c_b.jpg

Then the biggest issue... I finally cleared the threads enough to get the bolts into the mount so I decided to test fit the mount to the bar. Let's just say that was an event in itself. Seems as though the mount holes are just slightly out of tolerance with the machined recesses in the mount for the allen key bolts such that when you thread one bolt in, the other won't go in at all because it starts pressing the head of the bolt against the bore wall of the DTS bar. The only way I found to get the bolts to thread down into the mount were to switch between each bolt turning them little by little until it was torqued down.

Then... I looked at the assembly and it became clear the mount was not in alignment with the bar at all. See the image below to understand what I am saying. While I know there may be some slop and tolerances not THAT tight, this is concerning. Unfortunately I wont have any idea if all of this works to begin with as the car isn't even remotely close to being ready for this to be installed. May have jumped the gun a bit, but glad I did so that I have time to get these issues addressed.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/778/31701123414_c66a52631f_b.jpg

I sent in a tech support request to AWE to at least have a replacement mount sent out so I can at least see if that will resolve the issue. We will see what comes of that request... but overall not exactly enthused about the quality of the DTS from AWE. The bar itself looks great but it seems their issues lie with the mount used to connect it to the transmission.

zillarob
01-27-2017, 10:35 PM
You may want to take a lil more off toward the top in your pic here. The area near the weld is a pita to grind, and even worse when in the car.
This area is responsible for all the "Won't go into reverse" threads. And it would appear everybody that has ever installed one of these has one of those threads [>_<]

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/579/31669079303_39c4829c9a_b.jpg


Your mount being crooked- that thing is on every car built since like 1945 and prob made by everybody and their brother, for as little as possible.
Do some looking and you can find the part number for the Energy Suspension (or whoever) ones that are much nicer quality and go for ~$30.
They are a lil firmer so you will feel them a bit more though, but not terrible.

alphaVR
01-28-2017, 06:26 AM
Your mount being crooked- that thing is on every car built since like 1945 and prob made by everybody and their brother, for as little as possible.
Do some looking and you can find the part number for the Energy Suspension (or whoever) ones that are much nicer quality and go for ~$30.
They are a lil firmer so you will feel them a bit more though, but not terrible.

Found this part number at EnergySuspension.com: #3.1142G but it doesn't list any Audi model as being compatible. Is this the one you are talking about? Found it on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-3-1142G-Performance-Transmission/dp/B008SA6CD8) for $34 so not too expensive at all and at least worth a try to see if it mounts up better. Does make a lot more sense why the hardware provided in AWE's kit is SAE when everything on the car is metric...

zillarob
01-28-2017, 07:01 AM
I can't recall the number off hand, but that does sound right, and the one you want will def not be listed as an Audi application.

It has sae hardware because it is originally for domestic cars, like every gm and ford on the planet [:D]

alphaVR
01-28-2017, 09:23 AM
Cool... thanks for the heads up. I'll get that ordered soon and give it a try. Also, going to double check that weld point on the shift linkage that you mentioned. May as well grind a bit more off just to be safe. Thanks for the tip!

slowSfaux
01-28-2017, 10:14 AM
Zilla really is a stud. You're a wealth of information, and you give it freely. This forum is lucky to have a guy like you.

zillarob
01-28-2017, 10:39 AM
Forgot I had this kicking around. (not to scale)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O4CQGav27hdPVwVq170IvPr21IO9CTJzujBhyxeYgJUdm_BGxA 16QZKoHohMoa-ZxKZUuR3oqB1nndIsc1qxEOPbwCWIbfwuyvJqfEr69Tl3n8qbv CShGfyuqyQZwuoyXIJRbhf0sNo9H0ygHqylwBieGmlS1FRbAwI wgdSfijTsXrMvOzMsatvxOdX8VHS1O8MGh_FgaMw92QJcdfEIO eKI-qLcZIH_blcYjLOmLWJc2i2CCAdQVDOUqtK-lP_H_ODa8f3bv_63x_wMS0iMs8LGjK2I7TV9TdrE5roacyEsd3 OBXdny27WZR0yF3BgIdl7YiwyPUVQwRqCBZxMFRbzPQAXwJ6f5 gW0jUAPstegv0PnASrecHpSQR00OEtVIFuWfwyVpH7-eVLvAqkc61t35wFLdq-MxuAJT143tVXogv92D_BLqf_No8R8cPrjDPvFN0Fjmy6-Lnxdc6Zf2G5xudc49FLSkZIyKtwN6rQW6AKIr4yoTag7aqos3Y 5pXvPYScrSN1aPA7qGUUsR2tc4jpqu4W_luaDQGLj4VOJM5GoW LBNfBpcwsLZGh6o52gMxLRT2xnC9yhLQ60CjKuoJ5-4pLEymJOqC3ElL7mNoG9_5K3ta2=w555-h744-no

You can see the shift pattern is basically a square peg in a round hole. This kinda gives you an idea where the bottom/nut side will bind if you don't remove enough material.
The corners are where you might want to get greedy, while leaving as much of the rest of the lip as possible.
It has been a while since I have played with one though, and I think they have changed up the hardware for them since to give some more clearance.

alphaVR
01-29-2017, 05:26 PM
I moved the entire assembly to its extremes and it doesnt hit any of the shifter rod... my grinds are just enough to not interfere but not be excessive. Im pretty happy with the results. Fingers crossed! I believe you are right they changed the hardware because the nut I got in my kit appears much smaller than the one they show in the video.

Ill have a few pictures to upload later tonight. Weekend was mostly an effort in getting myself dirty for the sake of making things clean.

alphaVR
01-29-2017, 06:45 PM
Here you go @zillarob. Took a bit more material off that weld spot, moved shifter and couldnt get it to touch the weld spot at all. I think it's pretty well ground down

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/293/32601210265_b4f7b59751_b.jpg

Went ahead and assembled the shifter linkage pieces. As you can see in the background, I've been doing a LOT of cleaning. So nice feeling how solid this stuff is. Can't wait to drive the car with it all installed. That said.. Im torn on whether I should paint the trans. It's wire wheeled, its cleaned... so it wouldn't require much else to do, just taking the time to do it. Thoughts?

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/769/32601204135_a2451eccc1_b.jpg

Prepping everything for the cleaning of the engine bay. Picked up some potent degreasers and bought more brush tips for my steam cleaner.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/466/32221918060_5557aa38ea_b.jpg

And here's about where I stopped when I ran out of steam (literally and figuratively). Looking good... but a lot more to go. Completely douching all of the heat shields while I am at it. The drivers side of the engine bay is going to be a real PITA with all the components over there, but Im sure I'll get it figured out.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/484/32601205035_edaafd9c1d_b.jpg

alphaVR
02-01-2017, 07:46 PM
More parts!

Got the new trans mount, a gauge pod, and my Innovate Motorsports DLG-1 dual lambda sensor gauge kit.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/522/32614665036_1d5539293f_b.jpg

First up the trans mount. Thanks to Zillarob, I definitely have a higher quality mount to use and highly recommend it to everyone. Bolted onto the DTS without one bit of issue!

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/630/32655340715_6ba5ea9099_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/310/32276033990_3ee07ce65e_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/303/32276033690_c6f2bd6985_b.jpg

Now onto the Innovate DLG-1... this will be a doozy to get installed for sure. Straightforward but I need to think about where all the wires will go and then ultimately where the gauge will go. I currently have my AWE boost gauge in my center air vents, but after seeing how much wiring comes out of the DLG-1 one I don't think it'll work being in the gauge pod. So... I think the solution will be to move the boost gauge over to the steering column pod and then use the vent mount for the DLG-1. I'll look into doing that this weekend but I'm still not 100% sure of this plan yet.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/492/32536226751_7410f61ba9_b.jpg

alphaVR
02-09-2017, 05:43 AM
Got the engine bay done. Looks fantastic considering where I started. Heres the before and after to get a sense of how much cleaned it looks. I think I went through half a gallon of concentrated degreaser and about a gallon of steam.

BEFORE:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/466/32221918060_5557aa38ea_b.jpg

AFTER:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/515/32634085221_4ae39717b7_b.jpg

Also got the trans mount bolted on. Absolutely love this little thing simply because it doesn't look, feel, and bolt on like shit.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2948/32800971305_0e20f88e37_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2448/32800971295_e6e739366a_b.jpg

Have a bunch of stuff being delivered today, most of which are tools/pieces to do the AFR gauge install. Really unsure of where I am going to send the sensor wires. Might just drill through the trans tunnel and put a couple grommets in to get them into the cabin most directly, but that will leave a TON of extra cable. Not sure if going through the engine bay and into the ECU box is going to leave enough cable either. Going to play around with that tonight.

alphaVR
02-09-2017, 06:20 AM
Also... may have bought something I definitely don't need but was too good of a deal to pass up...

http://www.audizine.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=34034&d=1481849170

alphaVR
02-10-2017, 06:36 AM
Anyone have a source on 45mm steering column gauge pods? All I can find are 52mm which would be fine for a normal gauge... but I wanted to move my AWE gauge to the steering column and cant since its a 45mm gauge.

blitz2190
02-10-2017, 07:07 AM
Got the engine bay done. Looks fantastic considering where I started. Heres the before and after to get a sense of how much cleaned it looks. I think I went through half a gallon of concentrated degreaser and about a gallon of steam.

BEFORE:


AFTER:


Also got the trans mount bolted on. Absolutely love this little thing simply because it doesn't look, feel, and bolt on like shit.


Have a bunch of stuff being delivered today, most of which are tools/pieces to do the AFR gauge install. Really unsure of where I am going to send the sensor wires. Might just drill through the trans tunnel and put a couple grommets in to get them into the cabin most directly, but that will leave a TON of extra cable. Not sure if going through the engine bay and into the ECU box is going to leave enough cable either. Going to play around with that tonight.

very nice project can't wait to see it finished, also to help with the wire length you could drill up next to the battery on the ecu side and put a grommet there. should give you enough to run through the ecu box.

alphaVR
02-10-2017, 07:44 AM
I laid them out last night to get a feel for the limits of where they could be routed... needless to say the amount of cable you get is more than sufficient. Going to use the hole in the bulkhead next to the brake booster grommet and then pop 2 holes into my ECU box (sealing with rubber grommets and silicone) so I can just drop the cables into the cabin there.

Unfortunately my original plan to move my boost gauge to the steering column and the AFR gauge to the center vent was foiled by the unfortunate reality that the AWE boost gauge is a 45mm gauge. So I cant move them like I wanted to. Bummer, but I'll manage until I can find a better solution.

alphaVR
02-10-2017, 01:09 PM
I found Podi still makes a color matching gauge in 52mm, so Im putting that on the waitlist until the car is done. Putting in a few more orders today for some parts I'll need later on. Should be the last few I'll have to make. Getting closer to putting this back onto the road

Cysco abt S4
02-12-2017, 06:38 AM
Vines now made a gauge pod that replaces the small round vent on the dash it holds two gauges


Sent from my iPad using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

Cysco abt S4
02-12-2017, 06:39 AM
Cinesnow not fines now


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alphaVR
02-12-2017, 08:12 PM
Busy weekend. Friday night I stayed up till 5am getting things done. Took me 4-5 hours to get the DLG-1 wired in simply because there was so much wiring and I tried to get things set up so I could move the gauge if needed. @Cysco abt S4... I've seen those pods and I am interested, but the more I look into things the more I think I may ultimately switch to the Podi boost gauge for the steering column, then purchase a 52mm center vent pod for the DLG-1.

Anyways, photos...

caption for this one can be best summarized as "I seem to have misplaced something but I can't quite put my finger on it..."
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2190/32824101466_f51a1ddacd_b.jpg

Pushed the car outside and gave it a quick pressure wash. Surprisingly cleaned up well considering it's sat for a year, but luckily I had just waxed the car not too long before I parked it so everything beaded/ran right off. Loaded the car up and dropped it off at my buddy's shop for the finishing work...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/354/32022381874_d9257e5fc9_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2637/32484131770_28023a955e_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2041/32022372084_ee660e2e54_b.jpg

It'll be a bit before serious work gets started and I'll be posting as often as I have updates. We've targeted end of the month/early March when the car should be back on the road. Plan is to "break in" the car with the stock fueling/MAF and stock-like tune... and then we'll be getting started on transitioning to stage 3 once we're sure the car is OK running again. Starting to see this all come together... of course I already have more plans for later this year, because I can't leave this car alone for any amount of time.

alphaVR
03-09-2017, 11:24 AM
Thought I posted an update but I guess not. Not that I have much to provide an update on [>_>]

Other than the comical mess that was my order with SRM, everything has been pretty quiet. Buddy says its going to be another week-2 weeks until the car is back on the road. Hoping for the former as Im itching just to hear it run again.

Ordered the Walboro 450 E85 pump from ProjectB5 - Hoping to have that soon. Putting in an order on a 3Bar MAP sensor + adapter soon so I should have that relatively quickly. Also decided that Im going with 850cc injectors after digging into the details with my buddy over what will work best for my car. More injector than I originally thought I was going with but for the performance gains and price (same as 650cc's) it was a no brainer.

christianb5s4
03-09-2017, 12:43 PM
Awesome progress, it'll turn out great! I don't know how you have the patience to have the car down for a year, a mine was for a little over 5 months and was driving me crazy.

alphaVR
03-09-2017, 05:07 PM
Awesome progress, it'll turn out great! I don't know how you have the patience to have the car down for a year, a mine was for a little over 5 months and was driving me crazy.

Its not easy. It being at my buddy's shop makes it easier since I don't have to look at it every day I leave for work. But then again I just spent another $1300 on it this week so its hard to forget about.

I am more anxious about getting to drive it again than getting finished at this point. Im very much looking forward to it.

On a positive note, my buddy and I have penciled in next Saturday as the first completion date. This is when we expect to fire it up and start driving it on stock fueling/tuning to make sure all the components are happy together. Once we feel the car is OK with no major mechanical issues or fluid leaks (week or so), we'll move forward with the fueling and tuning upgrades which we'll have done by early April. I've decided we're going to stay with a conservative 14psi tune on the stage 3 fueling just to be safe and to minimize the effects of the stock intercoolers until those are addressed.

Oh and on that subject, I have secured a line on upgraded intercoolers so fingers crossed that goes through and I'll be piecing together a few other bits to support installing those later into May. That will round things out and allow us to push the tuning to my ideal goal of 20-22psi and 400whp on pump gas. e85 will allow us much more HP but obviously that'll be pushing the limits of the stock block.

alphaVR
03-19-2017, 12:25 PM
Updates...

Startup got pushed back until this coming week so nothing to report there. Everything seems to be going together well though.

Got in what should be the last major orders in so I can get the car rolling again. Unfortunately the guy here who was going to sell me intercoolers backed out on the deal last second. Really annoyed by that but it is what it is. I'll get them one way or another. Only real items left are pads/rotors since what's on the car is mostly shot anyways.

Here's the $200 MAF pipe from SRM (minus the second clamp and the air filter I should have received), the 3Bar MAP sensor, and Walboro 450 drop-in it from ProjectB5. Injectors (840cc DEKA/Siemens) ordered through my buddy's shop so they'll be here any day now. Fingers crossed things will go well this week!

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2837/33535660195_95293cced9_b.jpg

alphaVR
03-31-2017, 05:22 AM
Soon...

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2927/33754044855_08d415b409_b.jpg

Also have some more goodies showing up.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2861/33713325316_33b4e32222_b.jpg

alphaVR
04-02-2017, 05:21 AM
Almost there... ran into our first major issues with the turbo inlets but got that ironed out. Should be making noise today :)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2806/32972099193_06fd356dac_b.jpg

alphaVR
04-02-2017, 07:36 PM
Stop Tech slotted rotors and Hawk HPS pads in all 4 corners... definitely a welcome upgrade.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2851/33649830132_7f7cc6db62_b.jpg

Downpipes installed... had to do some custom welding to extend them to the catback, but that was just a quick trip to Summit for some stainless pipe and a bit of welding. Looking great from under the car (where nobody will see it)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2821/33805874665_f8e985b4b0_b.jpg

Was really keen to see the car move under its own power today but it wasn't meant to be (again). We discovered an issue with the Clutch Master cylinder... likely a blown seal from being extended too far... which basically rendered the clutch pedal inoperable without a replacement master. Got parts coming, but itll be a couple days. In the meantime we got everything necessary hooked up for the first firing.

Note that the MAF is still unplugged, the intercoolers aren't installed (yet) and the gas in the tank is at least 14 months old. She wasn't exactly happy and took a while to bring back to life but eventually we got it. Will likely have to evac the old gas and put in new just to get it running smoother.

Didn't get any pics of it, but finished up the lambda gauge in the car, got the sensors calibrated, and all the wiring tucked away. Going to be nice to have and even better once it's moved to its permanent home.

Whats left? Core support, intercoolers, Coolant, power steering fluid, shifter install/alignment, Rain try plastics, clutch master cylinder, maybe a few other odds and ends, and the front bumper. Looking like it'll be on the road later this week and back to me for more test driving by this weekend!

Here's a video of the very angry first firing. Its already sounding incredibly pissed off with no cats and straight pipes... might need a true catback sooner than later lol


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BQoN96uFmg

gumbyrs
04-03-2017, 01:12 AM
Sick!!


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

alphaVR
04-03-2017, 09:17 AM
Need to sort out the intercooler coupler issue... Basically I need to figure out how to connect the SRM V3 intercoolers to my stock hard pipes. The issue is the intercooler inlet/outlets are 2.5" vs 2" for the lower hard pipe and 2.25" for the bipipes. Anyone have suggestions? Im not going to waste time talking to SRM because a) it'd be months before I get anywhere, and b) he already hates me for calling him out on his bullshit. Uppers are easy - just need a reducing coupler but finding one has proven difficult. No idea what I am going to do about the lowers. I may have to pony up more cash for the White Dog Racing lower intercooler hard pipes.

vavJETTAw36
04-04-2017, 05:52 AM
Need to sort out the intercooler coupler issue... Basically I need to figure out how to connect the SRM V3 intercoolers to my stock hard pipes. The issue is the intercooler inlet/outlets are 2.5" vs 2" for the lower hard pipe and 2.25" for the bipipes. Anyone have suggestions? Im not going to waste time talking to SRM because a) it'd be months before I get anywhere, and b) he already hates me for calling him out on his bullshit. Uppers are easy - just need a reducing coupler but finding one has proven difficult. No idea what I am going to do about the lowers. I may have to pony up more cash for the White Dog Racing lower intercooler hard pipes.

WDR has couplers. Ask them what you should do. They'll direct you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

alphaVR
04-05-2017, 07:01 AM
Needed to remove the stock IC brackets to make way for the SRM intercoolers I bought from gymbyrs... Required dealing with the AC dryer. So instead of the hack-n-wack method and ziptieing it off somewhere, we decided to go a more proper method and modify the OEM bracket for our needs.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2810/33726415151_74e928f28a_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2836/33726413801_732663c794_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3849/33726413781_7f4eb0c09b_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2938/33699752492_a02747f655_b.jpg

alphaVR
04-06-2017, 05:12 PM
Finally got the new Clutch slave cylinder. Pictures online made it look like plastic but I was pleasantly surprised to see its a metal housing. Definitely a welcome upgrade. For those wondering, this was part# CM1448 at O'Reilly's and cost about $80 w/ tax

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2891/33726966702_c5f655121f_b.jpg

alphaVR
04-10-2017, 05:15 AM
Busy weekend. Unfortunately car still isn't on the road.... more on that in a bit.

Got the Intercoolers mounted up. Thanks to gumbyrs here on Audizine for being an awesome seller and not only being easy to work with but answering my questions after the sale. These fukkers are HUGE!! [>_<]
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3930/33822562141_e3a795ffa5_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2891/33952575895_c982005ce2_b.jpg

Closest the car got to being on the road... So close...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2930/33944640345_af3bc83902_b.jpg

aaaaaaaaaaaand back on the lift so we could drop the trans. [:(]
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3816/33101223144_6e1e7bb7b1_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2867/33944638285_780f96caf3_b.jpg

The issue? Throw out bearing. Bought a clutch kit off my buddy and he never gave me a throw out bearing so I just assumed it didn't need anything special. Turns out I was wrong! The Ringer Racing clutch kits are a Clutch Masters flywheel, Sachs pressure plate, and a LuK friction plate... Which is fine except the stack height of this kit vs stock is 7/16" shorter, meaning my stock TOB wasnt anywhere close to pushing down on the pressure plate enough to disengage the trans before the clutch slave was maxxing itself out. Really really really frustrating... and so far its looking to be almost a $200 fuckup unless we can figure out some kind of alternative. Buddy's shop has a machine shop next door so we may have our own spacer made to work with the bearing I have... but don't know yet. Sigh...

[top is a stock TOB, bottom is the one I need...]
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2888/33795075542_89e236b9a9_b.jpg

alphaVR
04-10-2017, 05:20 AM
Oh and this happened LOL


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPtyrjmiSR8

alphaVR
04-11-2017, 05:13 AM
What do you do when your throw out bearing isnt the right size?

You machine your own press-fit spacer out of 4041 Forged steel and then tack weld it onto the bearing's metal face. Problem solved!

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2907/33815561122_003d03f23f_b.jpg

spacecadet
04-11-2017, 02:41 PM
I want a 6 jaw :(

alphaVR
04-12-2017, 05:33 AM
New bearing installed...

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2916/33599307520_97d1955c90_b.jpg

alphaVR
04-18-2017, 08:12 AM
Been plagued with delays both externally and internally. Got the trans mounted back up into the car on Sunday. Now that we've got a properly sized throw out bearing installed, it seems clutch pedal feel is significantly more in line with what we'd expect.

Tonight...

alphaVR
04-21-2017, 11:49 AM
More delays stoppe things from progressing... The replacement master cylinder? Failed before we even got the car back on the road. Thankfully a friend had a spare plastic OEM master laying around I could use for a while. All is well with the car now.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2864/33371341363_a698dd3913_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2821/34025041352_0a28baebaf_b.jpg

It feels great to be driving this thing again. I am a bit unsure if i went TOO rigid on my engine mounts. That may be something I look at later on once I give everything time to settle in. Let's just say EVERY vibration is felt/heard right now.

Issues... well, the exhaust was rattling against something under the car. Turned out to be these studs for the tunnel heat shield. Dremeled them off and all is well again

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2942/33339989874_47af40a5ac_b.jpg

Outside of that... Need to get a new alternator on. It charges fine, but the bearings sound like theyre shot because its LOUD. Very...

Also need to drive the car now that its got a fresh tank of gas in it. Its on a 10lb boost tune and still running stock fueling, but she's very hesitant to get up and go at first. Hoping this irons itself out.

Oh and how could I forget. It needs a proper exhaust on it pronto... let's just say from about 2800-3700 it gets LOUD as f*ck. LOL

alphaVR
04-26-2017, 05:38 AM
In the interest of getting the car running right, I decided to hit up Blake Beadle over at ETSpec to get the car tuned. Awesome guy to talk to. Very helpful and made it very easy to work him. Best part is that the entire flashing process was done over a TeamViewer remote session with nothing more than a windows tablet, internet connection, and OBD2 cable (Ross Tech HEX-CAN USB worked too). Took maybe 10-15 minutes and he had everything looking good after just 1 minor revision... but since I haven't installed any of the other go-fast parts, he and I will be doing further revisions in a couple weeks. Just want to get a few miles on it as it is right now to be sure no hardware issues crop up.

Here's how she's running as of last night...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlJ3APwd4SU

alphaVR
04-28-2017, 04:59 AM
Would seem as though I am dealing with a couple small leaks. Plastic elbow on one of the heater core hoses coming off the crossover pipe are leaing, presumably from the inside of the elbow (where I've always seen them leak). Also spinning a bunch of axle grease out of my passenger inner CV at the output flange. Not 100% sure why... Brand new boot/rebuild, but what I found odd was the inner CV boot's band clamp doesn't have anywhere to clamp it down... so that may be a problem lol. Going back on the lift this weekend for a full brake bleed, a catback exhaust install, and to address these issues... If all goes well, it should be ready to go for some thrashing down at Deals Gap/Tail of the Dragon next weekend!

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4184/34269955436_9e190079dd_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2841/34269955046_f6eacc74ef_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2805/33927843240_4bb227ab2d_k.jpg

christianb5s4
04-28-2017, 08:39 AM
Blake is an awesome guy, very happy with him and his work not to mention patience. Car sounds and is running well! Once you get more break-in miles on it, you should feel it start to free up.

alphaVR
05-01-2017, 05:11 AM
Got a lot done this weekend... No more axle grease being flung out the CV boot (new clamp), no more coolant leak (replaced heater core hose), and no more trans fluid leaks (accidentally overfilled the trans and was coming out the vent - drained out the excess oil).

Worked on the interior, mostly removing my ashtray so I could clean it/repair it so it actually worked again. Took way too long but happy to have that back so I have somewhere to put my phone.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2842/33564594653_ec379fd0bb_b.jpg

Also picked up one of the last major items I needed for this car.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2892/33990481360_e9329b5e43_b.jpg

Yeah straight pipes sounded awesome but it's just not fun when driving around and it literally SCREAMS anywhere between 2800-3600RPM. Friend of mine had been holding on to this until I was ready and yesterday I was finally ready. For those wondering, this is one of the later APR/Corsa RSC catbacks (http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Audi--S4--B5--00-2002--2.7T/Exhaust/Exhaust-System/Corsa-Audi-S4-2.7T-Cat-Back-Exhaust-System-Polished-Tips.html), IMO one of the best sounding exhausts you can get (though pricey), is 3" from the y pipe to the tips, and most importantly 100% made in the USA [up]

Of course, it wasn't an easy swap as the shop who installed it on my friend's S4 "modified" it to connect to 2.25" downpipes... which mine are not (2.5"). So I had to hack-n-wack the shitty adapters they "welded" on. Came out pretty good considering I was using a Sawzall, an Angle Grinder, and a Dremel.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2881/34216615362_92e3547a2b_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2863/33532957244_703aef9f5a_b.jpg

Lastly, started giving a full polish to the muffler cases and exhaust tips. Coming out nice. Helps its true 304 stainless...

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2818/33532955454_7420db6c3a_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2820/33564590943_bd4129b94d_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2893/34374930675_0077f2aac1_b.jpg

alphaVR
05-01-2017, 06:16 AM
Also... I swear this car sounded like a turbo diesel truck at idle. I'll miss that but I won't miss it trumpeting when Im trying to drive it lol


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdNhqZdEe1w

alphaVR
05-03-2017, 05:14 AM
Got the new exhaust mounted up and looking good. Ill get some video of it soon but its a very nice upgrade over the harshness of straight pipes.

Taking a few days off to go have fun with the car at Quattro de Mayo (http://www.quattrodemayo.com) down at Tail of the Dragon/Deal's Gap. Hoping for an uneventful weekend of fun and really getting to learn this car again.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4185/34266618332_095369d5d1_b.jpg

Remaining to-do list after I am back...
- New Alternator (current one has noisy noisy bearings)
- Injectors
- Fuel Pump
- MAP sensor
- MAF Housing
- New tune

alphaVR
05-08-2017, 10:31 AM
Back from QDM - Was great the first 2 days, even with the cold and rain. I have videos I need to edit so hopefully Ill have those posted later this week.

Was not all smooth sailing, though....

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4172/34536444985_97872a271f_b.jpg

Developed a coolant leak above the oil filter after a day of hard driving. Either the upper radiator hose connection to the engine is leaking or the oil filter cooler hose is leaking. Both are going to be replaced, but this leak sidelined me for Saturday. At least had some gracious friends at the event who lent a hand where they could and gave me a ride throughout the day so I wasn't just stuck at the resort.

Did get to take some photos though. Here's some of the highlights.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4179/34151045590_1ba82a1e3d_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4190/34406335901_1054c31a2e_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4158/34406336781_d7e112259c_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4173/34536446985_a2f4f25e26_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4165/34406337781_edd391ed07_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4183/34536445845_1e1d6d8db7_o.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4163/34406338001_6725053b06_k.jpg

alphaVR
06-20-2017, 09:16 AM
When your area does emissions checks... and every location wants to visibly see your cats before passing you... you give in and install cats.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4220/34614522463_17b00e04a7_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4206/35257653922_5611d2dc54_b.jpg

alphaVR
07-05-2017, 05:25 AM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vC7ht1nbq8

alphaVR
07-16-2017, 06:15 PM
Finally had the opportunity to run the car for a while and hooked up the gopro/mic. Enjoy!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbWHWfX-vCc

alphaVR
01-13-2019, 09:12 PM
Wow... didn't realize I completely neglected this thread.

As far as the car goes, not a whole lot has changed. Mostly been driving and enjoying it. Valve covers are leaking and I have a small oil leak I need to get tracked down, but time has been the enemy. Bought a house 6months ago and it's more or less become a priority. That, along with the dayjob chewing up so much of my energy, has left the S4 more or less on the backburner. I did get some nice wheels and tires, though...

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/819/41444269552_68295c0c1a_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/269hHrA)

Then flogged it hard at the Tail of the Dragon... It survived this time!

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/932/30105777198_1de9264293_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MSkYG7)

and took it to the drag strip for the first time since finishing the build...

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1847/43395775505_6e99b94867_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/297JGaX)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1859/42494078320_fa41e481cb_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27K4g1L)

But beyond that have more or less parked it, especially since picking this up:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7877/46010723864_75f64ab7b4_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2d6NZdu)

2014 Q4 Premium Plus S-Line with the 3.0t. Absolutely love this as a daily, even though the fuel mileage sucks lol.

The two gals fit nicely into my garage

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7874/46656621901_5706cd6b6b_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2e5Tocx)

But the biggest development that may be of most interest is the latest mod for the S4. This has been in the works for well over a year. Between delays in the group buy, being busy and forgetting, buying a house, etc I never got around to it untill late last month. I sent my cluster to my buddy Matt at Clusters: By Litke LLC to do a massive upgrade. New gauge faces, gauge rings, B6 S4 main needles, new backlight LEDs, and of course the ColorMFA upgrade. Completely changes what a B5 S4 gauge cluster looks like and can't wait to start playing around with it. More to come on this soon....

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4826/46735434651_64ff69f56e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ecRju4)

alphaVR
01-13-2019, 09:16 PM
OH! and how could I forget the video I got of my S4 attacking the Dragon? Nice little surprise around the 17min mark ;)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LiYJXrAKTbQ

alphaVR
01-14-2019, 05:53 PM
Night shot of the new cluster look :)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7819/39781227453_6b51a88847_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23BkbXX)

Hiduke73
01-15-2019, 08:17 PM
Dam, jealous of the Gauged faces. Been trying to get in touch with that guy for months! Iím in the current group buy for the ColorMFA. Just waiting to hear when to send my cluster in. Still thinking about changing out my leds to white anyway . How do you like the white? Also, whatís the difference between the B5 needles and B6?

alphaVR
01-16-2019, 05:19 AM
So... mixed bag of results on the white LED backlighting, but this may be a product of the Gauged faces. It looks awesome, but if you look carefully at the night photo, the main guages are "dimmer" than the surrounding gauges (oil temp, coolant temp, fuel, voltage). From what Matt @ Clusters: By Litke, this is because of how the Gauged faces were created as they don't allow as much light through and appear to add a slight yellow-ish hue to them. I'm curious what these same LEDs would look like with the stock faces on there, though, and may try swapping back in the future just to see.

As far as the B6 needles, the biggest draw for me is that theyre a thinner needle overall and give the cluster a more modern and sleeker look. Unfortunately the B6 needle is about 3mm shorter than a B5 needle. I also tried swapping the B6 needles onto my smaller gauges in the cluster, but found that with my gauge rings installed the needles were too long and not really able to be shortened.

Hiduke73
01-16-2019, 05:33 AM
Yea, I like the white. I think Iím gonna do them either way. I suppose from how you describe it that brighter leds wouldnít help because of the yellow hue. Oh well.
Did Matt supply the needles or did you source them?
I was also debating maybe trying red needles

alphaVR
01-16-2019, 09:21 AM
I sourced more or less everything for him. He may have sources, but I ended up buying a B6 S4 cluster for cheap over on LKQ and gave the whole thing to him to play with or harvest for parts.

He said he put the brightest LEDs he could in there. As evidenced by the other gauges they seem plenty bright enough, but just the main gauge faces are created differently. He also said he's seen some gauge faces have this problem from Gauged and some that don't.

ChanceA4Parks
02-06-2019, 08:47 AM
Busy weekend. Unfortunately car still isn't on the road.... more on that in a bit.

Got the Intercoolers mounted up. Thanks to gumbyrs here on Audizine for being an awesome seller and not only being easy to work with but answering my questions after the sale. These fukkers are HUGE!! [>_<]
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3930/33822562141_e3a795ffa5_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2891/33952575895_c982005ce2_b.jpg

Closest the car got to being on the road... So close...
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2930/33944640345_af3bc83902_b.jpg

aaaaaaaaaaaand back on the lift so we could drop the trans. [:(]
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3816/33101223144_6e1e7bb7b1_b.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2867/33944638285_780f96caf3_b.jpg

The issue? Throw out bearing. Bought a clutch kit off my buddy and he never gave me a throw out bearing so I just assumed it didn't need anything special. Turns out I was wrong! The Ringer Racing clutch kits are a Clutch Masters flywheel, Sachs pressure plate, and a LuK friction plate... Which is fine except the stack height of this kit vs stock is 7/16" shorter, meaning my stock TOB wasnt anywhere close to pushing down on the pressure plate enough to disengage the trans before the clutch slave was maxxing itself out. Really really really frustrating... and so far its looking to be almost a $200 fuckup unless we can figure out some kind of alternative. Buddy's shop has a machine shop next door so we may have our own spacer made to work with the bearing I have... but don't know yet. Sigh...

[top is a stock TOB, bottom is the one I need...]
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2888/33795075542_89e236b9a9_b.jpgThe rod in the slave cylinder can be extended like I did originally or you can buy the autozone cylinder and the usp cylinder, remove the rod from the autozone one and and install it on the usp cylinder. It has worked perfect for me so far.

landfill
02-10-2019, 10:25 PM
That cluster is cool as shit!