DIY: K03 Rebuild

[FraggyA4]

For those of you out there that have a failing turbo or a busted K03 hanging out in your garage then get it out and rebuild that thing. Why not if it only cost $25 for a rebuild kit and some amount to balance it then when not have a spare turbo laying around incase you run into trouble.

First here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Repair-Rebuild-Rebuilt-kit-for-KKK-K03-K04-5303-711-0001-Major-parts-/301415873260?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item462dc93aec&vxp=mtr) is a link to the kit you need for a B7 turbo.

Ok lets get started:

First lets get all of the external items off the turbo and disconnect the wastegate. (sorry about quality of pictures)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10868181_10152534211030924_5787010235182446510_n.j pg?oh=c76af0945afc2b8225ddf8177a698167&oe=5546ECEF&__gda__=1430192528_3153f621c61a1361d2324fd67a872e9 4
Tools:
Beer!
10mm wrench
10mm socket
Torx set
Allen set

Start removing all the external items:
https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10858626_10152534210910924_5321205299406375146_n.j pg?oh=51eef604fa162148daea33cbcfadbbe2&oe=54F981E0
https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10857831_10152534210870924_1739441387976622758_n.j pg?oh=a5db5d4500f79d8ea5fb34fe2e4537ce&oe=5543CCF3
DV, As you can see my turbo turned into an oil pump.

https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10441202_10152534210515924_3181558795480881304_n.j pg?oh=d9e29b5f7be32ebbda755f43754d80b5&oe=55408DEC
https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10689544_10152534210470924_4546396263783948697_n.j pg?oh=882919f0fcfe66e02b0fd193d95387d0&oe=55417405
N75 and hoses

Now lets disconnect the wastegate. Start by marking the location of your nut so that when you reassemble the wastegate you can put it back where it was. After that start removing the clip that holds the adjuster in place.
https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10670008_10152534210705924_2167207020852069367_n.j pg?oh=897127ee67a508762920b552e4e196ea&oe=553EAD46

Next unscrew the nut so you can undo the adjuster.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10845963_10152534210805924_4284668211850162357_n.j pg?oh=73a42f56fdbab3ab21383faeb1e4a194&oe=553A49B7&__gda__=1426601377_50233bec392fda30bad6bc3a484a699 5

Then simply undo the adjuster screw until it comes apart.
https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10685404_10152534210615924_7389896970542513682_n.j pg?oh=57185eedcf1a075ecd7700d59773c741&oe=5509D1EF


Ok now we are ready to start removing the CHRA from the castings. First start with the V band clamp. It's a 10mm, undo it completely and remove the clamp.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10849869_10152534211100924_6774902270482448683_n.j pg?oh=03d88d0b1c3f081a9bb2fc0eb7bad51b&oe=54FBF382&__gda__=1427046103_015968d16a6c953a96572d1a60b0c55 3
https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10426198_10152534210980924_8984679555952399196_n.j pg?oh=49aa6749a8b8829d75e954678b7d6efc&oe=5509369A

Now that you have that undo it's time to get out the Dead blow. The exhaust manifold is go to be very tight. I would suggest hitting it with PB blaster. I used brake cleaner. I secured the manifold then slowly tapped around the side of the CHRA to get it so slowly work out. I don't have pictures of this but basically you just want to work it out of the manifold.

Tadah!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10405588_10152534210215924_830344807891395089_n.jp g?oh=c5adbd656a57fce99aed8a2bb75922f5&oe=550A5494&__gda__=1427074477_4ce7ec9eb21a1371f86b722b401afc3 1

Now that we got that out lets remove the intake casting. Un bolt the four screws around the flange of the CHRA.

https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10868206_10152534210400924_2557090672816283179_n.j pg?oh=e44f74b3736dcd515d3d601547b0c89e&oe=550D69DC
Gone
https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/1604725_10152534210320924_414723672393723901_n.jpg ?oh=3f698146c244eb7281d910ff121e6b72&oe=54FA22AF

Now work it off the CHRA, shouldn't take nearly as much effort as the exhaust side.
https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10858438_10152534210250924_4156701445813256518_n.j pg?oh=622141568db40c164f55a7185f0fe98a&oe=5542ADF5
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10846170_10152534210080924_4325645087944746957_n.j pg?oh=6cb99954cd4d713f75612ff7ef63cc45&oe=550FE667&__gda__=1427168211_12b174f06d045222d8b69867156dd21 3

Now you have successfully removed the CHRA! If your lazy and just bought a new CHRA then now is time to install it back on the manifold and housing and then add back on all the external components and you're done.

[FraggyA4]

Ok lets get to the nitty gritty.

First if you are going to do this as a temporary fix then mark the location of the compressor wheel in regards to the nut once the nut is remove mark the the location of the compressor in regards to the shaft. If you are going to get this bitch rebalanced then disregard all of this.

Lets start by removing the nut that holds the compressor wheel in place. It's 10mm nut and also note that it is REVERSE THREAD do not tighten it you will shear the shaft!!!! Put your 10mm wrench on the turbine side and your rachet on the turbine side and undo it.

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10850097_10152534210000924_5422234959999930002_n.j pg?oh=4dbcd375e8e764a2bb7d015bb3ad50fa&oe=550CBE7C&__gda__=1426297194_3242539ac1882e888bae310829f91c9 b

Nut removed
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10868088_10152534209950924_6526034172695529298_n.j pg?oh=6ebabd29f2b3e1e6aa23ee8fbfbe560a&oe=553C8FFD&__gda__=1430250731_3a20cd13aa5cf6ae357e72030d062b8 c

Now your going to think how the hell do I get this wheel off, it's sharp as shit and it seems very stuck. Well here's how you do it. Get 2 flat head screw drivers and wedge them in like below. Be careful you want to remove it evenly.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10522897_10152534209880924_1581168336609926584_n.j pg?oh=eef2673104feea47c451dcdc770a99e5&oe=55011142&__gda__=1425743677_f420198ba8054443ff7f7c4f4ceaa7f a

https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10857882_10152534209770924_9200397793852017147_n.j pg?oh=c38bf4fd29343ca9e795d48bff7377d4&oe=5504CF89

Compressor wheel removed!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/10868166_10152534209710924_3098334511259304959_n.j pg?oh=4e1548dcf473dfe96700313b977326c1&oe=5542DB00&__gda__=1426735341_2b69077d67b1fe3335a492775fd0bec f

Plate thing removed.
https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/10868092_10152534209605924_7109593037315045027_n.j pg?oh=8bc588a157eb676dc9a8d3b66a28957b&oe=550B24A5

Now we are here:
https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/9482_10152534209455924_2781797463701316907_n.jpg?o h=45c807879e58b6916ded725a672a4c7f&oe=55465436

all the parts from this point on can be tossed you will replace them with your new kit. Also at this point you can remove the spindle and turbine wheel. Just give it a little thump and it should pop out.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10731202_10152534209335924_4275626265513697385_n.j pg?oh=75d11a7aa11d772b606f9294edb805d5&oe=55037AE6&__gda__=1425981936_1f15f064793818d44e1d086e1a254cd 3

Remove the thrust bearing and clip.
https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1601290_10152534209280924_1866083221693830059_n.jp g?oh=f3032f91782bde2bf5702863726aadff&oe=5544DC12

Time to pry out the retaining clip to get the bearing out.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10848023_10152534209210924_3380401311675560408_n.j pg?oh=980030998a114ebecdc6740a69d9d4cc&oe=55121E0A&__gda__=1425859423_2908011f59cdec006fb43e8cfb28599 e

Once that is out the bearing inside should slide out.
Done! Drink beer and stay tuned for reassembly.

[FraggyA4]

Reserved for CHRA assembly

[Nebone]

As the first to comment on this, good work! It'll come in handy, especially since all newer turbos are like this.

[Audibot]

Tools:
Beer!

First one I noticed!



I would suggest hitting it with Kroil.

FTFY

[FraggyA4]

First one I noticed!



FTFY

How about just oil the shit out it and you will be ok. [>_<]

*editied for sarcasm

[Audibot]

How about just oil the shit out it and you will be ok.

That works too. No need to get angry. Just pointing out Kroil will own PB Blaster any day of the week.

[drumnjuny]

awesome DIY [up] thanks fraggy!

kroil is dope but costs about 3x as much so... you could just use 3x as much pb blaster [>_<] i've had the same bottle of kroil for like a year though and it has been working great. also easier to apply IMO it comes out foamy

[thenofjboy]

Great DIY! I rebuilt my KO4 on my B5 years ago, it was pretty straight forward.

How much did you get quoted to balance the turbo?

That looks like a nice frothy brew! that's the #1 tool obv hahahah

[drumnjuny]

any time you're drinking beer from a 10oz cup instead of a pint... you know its a dank beer!

[Charles.waite]

A+ on the proper beverage receptacle!

[fly300kts]

A+ on the proper beverage receptacle!

X2 but A- on the picture quality [:D]

Phil

[FraggyA4]

Great DIY! I rebuilt my KO4 on my B5 years ago, it was pretty straight forward.

How much did you get quoted to balance the turbo?

That looks like a nice frothy brew! that's the #1 tool obv hahahah

Thanks! I haven't been quoted not sure if I will get quoted, this is just a backup in case my frankenturbo wasn't going to make it back in time.


any time you're drinking beer from a 10oz cup instead of a pint... you know its a dank beer!

Thanks, it's a decent beer home brewed Pumpkin Milk stout and I always pour my brews in that glass because it's my favorite.


A+ on the proper beverage receptacle!

Thanks!


X2 but A- on the picture quality [:D]

Phil

Yeah my HTC has issues with Low light, I should of went with a flash. Maybe I'll tear it back down and take updated pictures.

[Audibot]

Thanks, it's a decent beer home brewed Pumpkin Milk stout and I always pour my brews in that glass because it's my favorite.



Nice! Good to see more homebrew on here!

And I realized I didn't say this before--great job on the DIY. Need more picture-oriented DIYs like this.

[Rastboostin]

Awesome DIY. Would following this be able to help fix my old K03 that has some shaft play? everything else with the turbo seems fine, but the shaft wiggles around a bit (giggity).

[Charles.waite]

Awesome DIY. Would following this be able to help fix my old K03 that has some shaft play? everything else with the turbo seems fine, but the shaft wiggles around a bit (giggity).

Possibly. If its side to sside play, then probably, but if its front to back play then your chra is toast I think.

[FraggyA4]

Possibly. If its side to sside play, then probably, but if its front to back play then your chra is toast I think.

Correct side to side is bad and can be repaired. But In and out play might be a caused by worn spring inserts? Not really sure but for $23 who cares rebuild it take it to a shop and let them tell you it's toast. Either way you learned a lot in the process.

[thenofjboy]

IIRC, in out play is because the bearing(s) are shot -

[vce1232000]

Great DIY!

How much did you get quoted to balance the turbo?



http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/eating/eating-popcorn-smiley-emoticon.gif (http://www.sherv.net/)

[konarider94]

In/out, side/side, front/back could be confused. Can we refer to axial movement and radial from now on?

http://gpopshop.com/services/turbo-balancing/ A note on balancing, and for reference they charge $65 for those who dont want to click. They say its not necessary if you realign everything. I think it would be better to check rather than not.

[Charles.waite]

Here is an excellent video walking through the process on a similar journal bearing turbo (td05 16G from an Evo):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PSZtP949JHU


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wqXe0ln7-WQ

[FraggyA4]

Well I rebuilt and put the K03 back in last night. Everything went pretty smoothly and the car is running! Fingers crossed it will get me to chicago this weekend. But holy shit the k03 is soooooo sssssllllooooowwwww.

[Jake@JHM]

Right on [up]

[Jake@JHM]

Well I rebuilt and put the K03 back in last night. Everything went pretty smoothly and the car is running! Fingers crossed it will get me to chicago this weekend. But holy shit the k03 is soooooo sssssllllooooowwwww.

JHM Tune Time?

[jamerican1]

Well I rebuilt and put the K03 back in last night. Everything went pretty smoothly and the car is running! Fingers crossed it will get me to chicago this weekend. But holy shit the k03 is soooooo sssssllllooooowwwww.

Strong work man! This should totally become a sticky[up]

[FraggyA4]

JHM Tune Time?

I don't trust my turbo that much, maybe if I had it balanced.

[FraggyA4]

Strong work man! This should totally become a sticky[up]

Thanks, I'll have to get the rebuild updated. I was in a hurry and didn't get pictures but hopefully I get to it once I pull it back out.

[drumnjuny]

i vote for it going into the tech section as a sticky, more and more people will need this DIY as our B7's get up there in mileage...

buuuuut step one is take the hue/glare off all the pics in a photo editor LOLOLOL /justtrollin

[Charles.waite]

i vote for it going into the tech section as a sticky, more and more people will need this DIY as our B7's get up there in mileage...

buuuuut step one is take the hue/glare off all the pics in a photo editor LOLOLOL /justtrollin

Fraggy, if you sent me the raw images I could try a little Photoshop magic on them. I'm bored at work today and i'm a graphic designer, so you could say photoshop is my jam...

[FraggyA4]

http://media.shoutabl.com/c8/35/b0/c835b052306a475e7f1321fd515e638f.jpg

I made it to Chicago on my rebuilt turbo! Now lets hope I made it back.

[Jake@JHM]

http://media.shoutabl.com/c8/35/b0/c835b052306a475e7f1321fd515e638f.jpg

i made it to chicago on my rebuilt turbo! Now lets hope i made it back.

jtt!!

jhm tune time

[aluthman]

I may need to do this with my K0R. I still have to pull my IC piping and see how much oil is in there. I'm going through a quart every 650 miles or so. Turbo still seems to work fine though with no weird noises and no smoky exhaust.

[FraggyA4]

I may need to do this with my K0R. I still have to pull my IC piping and see how much oil is in there. I'm going through a quart every 650 miles or so. Turbo still seems to work fine though with no weird noises and no smoky exhaust.

To truly know you would need to pull your intercooler boot. If the seal is gone if will have close to half a quart in the boot. Once you rebuild it just make sure to get it balanced or make sure you mark exactly where the turbine is with respect to the shaft.

[aluthman]

To truly know you would need to pull your intercooler boot. If the seal is gone if will have close to half a quart in the boot. Once you rebuild it just make sure to get it balanced or make sure you mark exactly where the turbine is with respect to the shaft.

I know, it's just so damn cold right now. I'm content with dumping oil in until it gets worse or warms up. I almost hope it is my turbo, since pistons/rings are really the only thing I have left that could cause it. Compression test was promising but I haven't done a leakdown test yet. That's still one tool I need to get.

[Charles.waite]

I know, it's just so damn cold right now. I'm content with dumping oil in until it gets worse or warms up. I almost hope it is my turbo, since pistons/rings are really the only thing I have left that could cause it. Compression test was promising but I haven't done a leakdown test yet. That's still one tool I need to get.

Basically the same boat I'm in right now. Consumption has gotten significantly better (up to around 1qt/3000miles from 1qt/900miles) since I've basically told the wife to drive the car like a grandma. Probably not going to be able to pull the turbo for a rebuild until this spring most likely.

[FraggyA4]

Yeah as long as you don't build to much boost the seals will work ok. Mine was just completely blown, my turbine became and oil pump and I billowed smoke and burnt all my oil in about 10 miles.

[aluthman]

Yeah as long as you don't build to much boost the seals will work ok. Mine was just completely blown, my turbine became and oil pump and I billowed smoke and burnt all my oil in about 10 miles.

I've never taken one apart, are the seals included in the rebuild kit? You think 22 psi peak is too much boost? I've had the thing cranked to as high as 27 psi when I was tuning it, so I probably created this problem myself.

[allstock]

I'm totally dig'n this Fragmeister.

Looked for a bit, is there an OE KO3 kit out there?

And what of the issue of balancing? I'm reading that there is a procedure of marking the two wheels' designation to each other, Okay.

[Yogie]

Aluth and Charles, my old CVT 07' had the same issue. To the point I was basically dumping oil into it. Turned out to be the oil return line was basically busted and pouring in the turbo.

[allstock]

Aluth and Charles, my old CVT 07' had the same issue. To the point I was basically dumping oil into it. Turned out to be the oil return line was basically busted and pouring in the turbo.

How does an oil return line bust If I may ask? There isn't a valve inside it.

[aluthman]

How does an oil return line bust If I may ask? There isn't a valve inside it.

This. If it is the oil return line, awesome! It just doesn't make sense to me.

[FraggyA4]

I've never taken one apart, are the seals included in the rebuild kit? You think 22 psi peak is too much boost? I've had the thing cranked to as high as 27 psi when I was tuning it, so I probably created this problem myself.

It can handle the boost, I was just talking about right now since you are already blowing past the seals to take it easy on the boost.


I'm totally dig'n this Fragmeister.

Looked for a bit, is there an OE KO3 kit out there?

OE kit (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Repair-Rebuild-Rebuilt-kit-for-KKK-K03-K04-5303-711-0001-Major-parts/301507340537?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3Db8faf1f628e14f3ca2a 288b5c10e38f6%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D10%2 6sd%3D301415873260)

And what of the issue of balancing? I'm reading that there is a procedure of marking the two wheels' designation to each other, Okay.

You can get away without balancing if you mark the location of the turbine in respect to the shaft. You will also have to use the original nut and locate it exactly the same. For reliability though I would suggest using the new nut torque it and then send it somewhere to get balanced. It's still cheaper then a new turbo and it's peace of mind.


How does an oil return line bust If I may ask? There isn't a valve inside it.

The oil return line is a flex line that is crimped at the ends. Over time the flex wires can fractured and create holes in the hose. Mine did this upon reassembly when I swapped turbos creating a slow leak.

[Rastboostin]

Correct side to side is bad and can be repaired. But In and out play might be a caused by worn spring inserts? Not really sure but for $23 who cares rebuild it take it to a shop and let them tell you it's toast. Either way you learned a lot in the process.

Okay awesome. Yeah mine was side to side, not front to back. Before I pulled it, I managed to put on one of those Wastegate "clips" that were made for the MK6 GTIs to fix the problem, but it wasnt a direct fit. I managed to crimp it so it was tight, but it only held for about a week before it came loose

[Charles.waite]

Hey Fraggy, how long did to take you to pull the turbo? Just thinking ahead to this. I've done plenty of things in te engine bay but never had the pleasure of removing a turbo/manifold before...

[aluthman]

I'm going to try replacing my turbo oil return line and see if that helps. If it doesn't, I'm gonna rebuild it.

[FraggyA4]

Hey Fraggy, how long did to take you to pull the turbo? Just thinking ahead to this. I've done plenty of things in te engine bay but never had the pleasure of removing a turbo/manifold before...

The last 2 times it took me about 4 hours for a complete swap so like 2 to pull it. First time pulling it probably took me about 6. Usually it's kind of a pain the first time because everything is ceased up. Don't forget the turbo support mount I almost always forget it and then I tug and pull for a few minutes wondering why the damn thing wont budge. Also I suggest leaving the 2 lines attached to the block attached, just disconnect them from the turbo. But leave the lower oil line attached to the turbo and disconnect it from the oil pan. Also to note I use a battery powered impact so it really helps with my time.

[Charles.waite]

Did you drain the oil or coolant?

[vce1232000]

The nutz underneath the exhaust manifold are a BITCH[eek] to [wrench] get off.

[FraggyA4]

Did you drain the oil or coolant?

I drained coolant but not oil. I saved my coolant and recycled it. You will still lose some coolant out the coolant hoses though.


The nutz underneath the exhaust manifold are a BITCH[eek] to [wrench] get off.

I've actually never unbolted my nuts. No need to the design is made to be a shelf. Gravity maintains all the force needed to keep it clamped up tight. The little holders are chamfered so that when you put it in the manifold goes in on at an angle then as you pry it up to be flush the little shelf puts force on the manifold like a pry bar. Pretty cool design if I might say. However the first time you remove the turbo it's a bit of a bitch. To make it easy just use a hoist to pop it free. However you do need to remove the studs on top.

[vce1232000]

Go to know next time[up]

[aluthman]

Anyone know how much if any oil I will lose by disconnecting the turbo oil return line from the oil pan? I want to check for coking before I drop a few hundo on new lines.

[allstock]

Anyone know how much if any oil I will lose by disconnecting the turbo oil return line from the oil pan? I want to check for coking before I drop a few hundo on new lines.

It seems you'd lose all of it based on this pic.

http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r629/allstock1/f344f4c5-c04c-48a5-8772-1ec9c9a3c9dc_zps5f800af4.jpg?t=1424709179
*Pic taken from Mitchbartko's "oil pump failure?" thread. Thanks*

[aluthman]

Lol, pretty sure thats the drain plug dude. The return line may actually go to the block and not the pan. It's been a while since I've looked at it.

[allstock]

Lol, pretty sure thats the drain plug dude. The return line may actually go to the block and not the pan. It's been a while since I've looked at it.

Holy brain failure. LOL


Wait....I'm pretty sure it's on the oil pan. I've seen so many times, as a matter of fact just this past weekend I was underneath the car. I'm just not sure now. Doubting Thomas....

[Charles.waite]

I think it does go into the pan, but higher up? It's just your standard 2 bolt oil drain though. I would get a new gasket to make sure it doesn't leak when you reattach it. Dealing with that stuff can be a pain.

[FraggyA4]

Lol, pretty sure thats the drain plug dude. The return line may actually go to the block and not the pan. It's been a while since I've looked at it.

Goes to the oil pan you will lose most of your oil. You can drain into a clean pan and then add the oil back into the engine when you are done.

[allstock]

Yeah, the light coming through in that picture is the port that goes to the turbo line and the drain is right below it.

[aluthman]

Going to swap out the drain line today during an oil change. I was due for one anyway.

[_muppet_]

You might fight one of the bolts on the turbo for a while. One of them is really easy to access, the other is blocked by the brace that goes from the turbo to the block. I tried a long ball end 5mm allen with the turbo out of the car, and I remember thinking that I was going to strip the drain bolt if I didn't remove the brace first, just because of the angle the brace was pushing the ratchet out to. If you remove the 8mm allen head bolt that holds the brace to the block, you may be able to swing the brace enough to gain clearance necessary. I don't know if you'll have any luck getting to the bolt that holds the brace to the turbo, it's pretty far in there, and on my turbo, it was super tight.

[aluthman]

I'm going to try to use allen sockets on an extension with a swivel. If that fails, I'm going to try removing the brace.

[Charles.waite]

Just got a used turbo in the mail today, paid $128 shipped for it. Seems to be in decent condition.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/26/d960eb7ff67596143ea9f1d67c337963.jpg

Lots of pink crust on the exhaust turbine.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/26/e4dee611faea97a101c2962b0b1ef7da.jpg

Definitely going to be going through this thread and might rebuild it. Fraggy any pics you want me to take so you can fill in the blanks at the beginning?

Also ordered my rebuild kit today. Should get it sometime next week.

[FraggyA4]

Just got a used turbo in the mail today, paid $128 shipped for it. Seems to be in decent condition.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/26/d960eb7ff67596143ea9f1d67c337963.jpg

Lots of pink crust on the exhaust turbine.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/26/e4dee611faea97a101c2962b0b1ef7da.jpg

Definitely going to be going through this thread and might rebuild it. Fraggy any pics you want me to take so you can fill in the blanks at the beginning?

Also ordered my rebuild kit today. Should get it sometime next week.

Actually if you retake them all and post the url's I'll update the first page as mine have been moved around servers. I was thinking of tearing mine apart again and taking better quality shots.

[aluthman]

The oil return line is just a gravity drain from the turbo to the oil pan. Were you thinking of the oil feed line? I replaced the return line already and it did nothing.

[Charles.waite]

Actually if you retake them all and post the url's I'll update the first page as mine have been moved around servers. I was thinking of tearing mine apart again and taking better quality shots.

No problem. I'll be sure to take lots of photos.

Got my rebuild kit today.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/01/28b6d862ce0be2d9915cf66f2262e6ad.jpg

Hopefully I'll have time to dig into the turbo and rebuild it this weekend.

[FraggyA4]

No problem. I'll be sure to take lots of photos.

Got my rebuild kit today.

Hopefully I'll have time to dig into the turbo and rebuild it this weekend.

Awesome! Also just to let you know, you won't use everything in the kit. Basically I just pulled out all my pieces and then matched up everything with what was in the kit. That way I knew I was putting everything back in that came out.

[Charles.waite]

Good to know. Did you reuse your old impeller nut or use a new one? My thinking is reusing the old nut would be more likely to keep the assembly balanced.

[aluthman]

No problem. I'll be sure to take lots of photos.

Got my rebuild kit today.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/01/28b6d862ce0be2d9915cf66f2262e6ad.jpg

Hopefully I'll have time to dig into the turbo and rebuild it this weekend.

Are those rubber o-rings at the top? I don't think my rebuild kit came with any of those.

[Charles.waite]

Yea they are. I'm not sure what they're for.

[FraggyA4]

Good to know. Did you reuse your old impeller nut or use a new one? My thinking is reusing the old nut would be more likely to keep the assembly balanced.

Yeah I reused mine, just make sure to paint mark everything where it starts at.


Are those rubber o-rings at the top? I don't think my rebuild kit came with any of those.

You only use one of them if I remember correctly. It goes between the plate that the compressor wheel sits on and the CHRA housing.

[aluthman]

Fraggy, your pictures are broken in the OP. Also, is your K03 still kicking without getting it balanced?

[Charles.waite]

^ im going to rebuild mine this weekend and am going to post a ton of pics. fraggy is welcome to steal them and update the op if he wants.

[aluthman]

I'm doing mine this weekend too.

[FraggyA4]

Fraggy, your pictures are broken in the OP. Also, is your K03 still kicking without getting it balanced?

My pictures sucked because of potato camera. I plan to update using Charles pictures. I only used mine for a short while because I couldn't stand how slow it was. But it seemed to work fine. However I didn't do a very good job at realigning everything so mine was most likely out of balance. According to Gpop shop as long as you put everything back where it was you're fine. Turbo's are pretty hardy honestly and will take awhile to burn out. Just look at how long peoples frankenturbos lasted on poor balancing. Mines still kicking lol

[Charles.waite]

I'm doing mine this weekend too.

Haha, race you?

[aluthman]

Haha, race you?

A race to rebuild it or to get everything back together and running again?

[Charles.waite]

rebuild. I'm not even going to be swapping mine for a little while.

[aluthman]

I still need to pull mine off the car. I'm hoping my gaskets and such all make it here by Friday.

Edit: Car is on ramps in the garage now. As soon as it cools off, I'm pulling the turbo.

[vce1232000]

Hey Adam,

I should have my KO4 [wrench] by Monday. So if you still need my KO3 as a loaner your welcome to it[az]

[aluthman]

Hey Adam,

I should have my KO4 [wrench] by Monday. So if you still need my KO3 as a loaner your welcome to it[az]

I'm just going to go ahead and rebuild my K0R. I'm down to about a quart every 400 miles, and I'm done dumping oil into it. If this doesn't fix it, I'm not sure where to go from here. I appreciate the offer though.

[vce1232000]

Have you preform a leakdown test yet[confused].

[FraggyA4]

rebuild. I'm not even going to be swapping mine for a little while.


I still need to pull mine off the car. I'm hoping my gaskets and such all make it here by Friday.

Edit: Car is on ramps in the garage now. As soon as it cools off, I'm pulling the turbo.

You guys are slow, I pulled mine rebuilt it and put it back in and had it running in an evening after work.

[aluthman]

You guys are slow, I pulled mine rebuilt it and put it back in and had it running in an evening after work.

What parts did you replace, if any? I'm planning on the two gaskets and the copper nuts, along with the oil and coolant.

[aluthman]

Have you preform a leakdown test yet[confused].

Yep, 3% on all cylinders.

[FraggyA4]

What parts did you replace, if any? I'm planning on the two gaskets and the copper nuts, along with the oil and coolant.

Well all my lines were new from the frankenturbo. So none of those. Kept the same nuts because they were still new. I just replaced manifold gasket and exhaust gasket. I also managed to pull my turbo with out removing the upper oil hose and both coolant hoses off the engine.

[aluthman]

Got it out of the car. No obvious signs of it needing rebuilt though. There is almost no radial play and very little axial play. There was also no excessive oil in the compressor housing. I don't think my oil problem is due the turbo... [confused] I may as well rebuild it while it's out though.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsruyhxofz.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsruyhxofz.jpg.html)

That's a nice decorative coating of black gunk on the impeller blades.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsbvparzr2.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsbvparzr2.jpg.html)

Looks ok to me. That turbine blade was chipped when the I installed the turbo 40k miles ago. It hasn't gotten any worse.

[aluthman]

On a side note, it also appears that I bought the wrong rebuild kit... I'm not seeing matching parts as I take it apart. Also, how the hell do I get the exhaust housing off the CHRA? I've tried PB blaster and a deadblow hammer with no luck.

[Charles.waite]

On a side note, it also appears that I bought the wrong rebuild kit... I'm not seeing matching parts as I take it apart. Also, how the hell do I get the exhaust housing off the CHRA? I've tried PB blaster and a deadblow hammer with no luck.

Did the parts look like my kit? Now I'm worried I may have gotten the wrong one...

[aluthman]

Your kit looks like it would work with my turbo. The only parts that yours and mine appear to have in common are the two brass parts. I still can't get that damn exhaust housing off.

[Charles.waite]

Your kit looks like it would work with my turbo. The only parts that yours and mine appear to have in common are the two brass parts. I still can't get that damn exhaust housing off.

Can you use the bolts to push the housing off?

[aluthman]

What bolts? The exhaust housing is held on with a v-band clamp. I'm hoping that lots of penetrating lubricant and maybe a torch will convince it to come loose. I'm hesitant to start wailing on it with a hammer for obvious reasons.

[vce1232000]

What bolts? The exhaust housing is held on with a v-band clamp. I'm hoping that lots of penetrating lubricant and maybe a torch will convince it to come loose. I'm hesitant to start wailing on it with a hammer for obvious reasons.
I had the same problem[headbang]. I put the manifold on a vise and used a 19mm deep impact socket and placed it against the thickest part of the CHRA and banged with a regular hammer a few times and it came loose

[aluthman]

I'll give that a shot tonight.

[FraggyA4]

Did the parts look like my kit? Now I'm worried I may have gotten the wrong one...

Chareles yours is correct. You have all the parts you need which is the 270 degree thrust bearing, silver spindle, journal bearing flat plate thing and o-ring.


I'll give that a shot tonight.

To get mine off I re-bolted it to the engine and then deadblowed the shit out of it. It is a pain.

[aluthman]

Just to clarify, but you were hitting the chra right?

[FraggyA4]

Just to clarify, but you were hitting the chra right?

yes, but you could mount the compressor housing back on and hit that. Also you can use a small flat head to get it to start splitting.

[aluthman]

I had the same problem[headbang]. I put the manifold on a vise and used a 19mm deep impact socket and placed it against the thickest part of the CHRA and banged with a regular hammer a few times and it came loose

This did the trick, along with liberal application of Liquid Wrench over about 24 hrs. I didn't want to mess up my sockets though, so I used a ~foot long 1" round piece of aluminum barstock I had laying around. How difficult is this thing going to be to put back together?

[FraggyA4]

This did the trick, along with liberal application of Liquid Wrench over about 24 hrs. I didn't want to mess up my sockets though, so I used a ~foot long 1" round piece of aluminum barstock I had laying around. How difficult is this thing going to be to put back together?

goes together without much fuss, just clean up the connection point well and it taps back in.

[vce1232000]

This did the trick, along with liberal application of Liquid Wrench over about 24 hrs. I didn't want to mess up my sockets though, so I used a ~foot long 1" round piece of aluminum barstock I had laying around. How difficult is this thing going to be to put back together?
I didnt [wrench] back together[=(]. I sent the CHRA to http://timsturbos.com/. to try to [wrench]. No go since the turbine shaft snapped and damaged the wheels[headbang]. I had to get another CHRA and he [wrench] that one. After all done he sent it back completely assembled exhaust manifold and compressor housing looking like BRAND NEW[drool]. From what he told me. Its very important to have it balanced for longevity. A unbalanced CHRA will work for awhile. But its set up for failure in the future. It causes premature load on the thrust bearing/bushing from being not balanced correctely

[aluthman]

I didnt [wrench] back together[=(]. I sent the CHRA to http://timsturbos.com/. to try to [wrench]. No go since the turbine shaft snapped and damaged the wheels[headbang]. I had to get another CHRA and he [wrench] that one. After all done he sent it back completely assembled exhaust manifold and compressor housing looking like BRAND NEW[drool]. From what he told me. Its very important to have it balanced for longevity. A unbalanced CHRA will work for awhile. But its set up for failure in the future. It causes premature load on the thrust bearing/bushing from being not balanced correctely

Nothing on/in my turbo shows signs of being balanced? Maybe everything was zero balanced before assembly? I dunno. I'm fairly certain my turbo is actually fine, but it's out now so I may as well rebuild it. I've got a feeling I'll be buying new pistons/rings before getting that new turbo...

[vce1232000]

Nothing on/in my turbo shows signs of being balanced? Maybe everything was zero balanced before assembly? I dunno. I'm fairly certain my turbo is actually fine, but it's out now so I may as well rebuild it. I've got a feeling I'll be buying new pistons/rings before getting that new turbo...
I think what you said about the difference in piston type expanding and contracting mite be the cause of your oil consumption. JE sometimes not divulge all information about is specification properties

[aluthman]

I think what you said about the difference in piston type expanding and contracting mite be the cause of your oil consumption. JE sometimes not divulge all information about is specification properties

That would be fine if it was a quart every 2000-3000 miles, but it has steadily been getting worse. I'm down to 1 quart in 400 miles.

[allstock]

Any boost related trouble codes before you removed the turbo or occasional smoke from your exhaust?

Keep us informed when you reinstall. By looking at the nut on the prop (manifold side) it looks like there's a bit of metal shaved off...hard to tell if it was indeed balanced or if it's just the picture.

[Charles.waite]

yea, they usually grind the top nut to balance the turbos, so if its shaved somewhere then its been balanced.

[aluthman]

I marked the orientation before pulling anything off, but I don't remember seeing any grind marks.

[FraggyA4]

I marked the orientation before pulling anything off, but I don't remember seeing any grind marks.

Maybe that's why you are burning oil, because your turbo was never balanced. I would suggest sending the CHRA to gpopshop or something. Unless this is a temp fix to get you through 5-10k miles then you will be fine.

[Charles.waite]

The used turbo I bought didn't have the oil ports blocked off during shipping and spinning the compressor slowly by hand felt a bit gritty. I need to clean it and I basically felt if I'm going to take it apart I might as well rebuild it. I was planning on slapping this used turbo in and running it for a few days while I rebuild my Original turbo but the thought of that grit getting into my oiling system didn't sit well with me. I figure the $30 for the rebuild kit is very cheap insurance.

When I rebuild my Original turbo I'll probably send it off to GPOP shop or find a local balancer and have them do it.

[FraggyA4]

The used turbo I bought didn't have the oil ports blocked off during shipping and spinning the compressor slowly by hand felt a bit gritty. I need to clean it and I basically felt if I'm going to take it apart I might as well rebuild it. I was planning on slapping this used turbo in and running it for a few days while I rebuild my Original turbo but the thought of that grit getting into my oiling system didn't sit well with me. I figure the $30 for the rebuild kit is very cheap insurance.

When I rebuild my Original turbo I'll probably send it off to GPOP shop or find a local balancer and have them do it.

That's basically how I felt when I needed mine. Figured for $30 why not rebuild it even if I only used it for a week.

[aluthman]

Upon closer inspection, there are two small flat spots that appear to have been machined in the end nut. I guess I was looking for something done by hand.

[allstock]

Regarding your consumption, did you have copious amounts of smoke from your exhaust every once and a while? Or any boost codes/issues.

[aluthman]

Regarding your consumption, did you have copious amounts of smoke from your exhaust every once and a while? Or any boost codes/issues.

No codes, no smoke. Ever.

[aluthman]

Correct rebuild kit should show up today. Pictures to follow tonight hopefully.

[FraggyA4]

Correct rebuild kit should show up today. Pictures to follow tonight hopefully.

Sweet! Good luck with the build.

[Charles.waite]

Yea I didn't get around to touching my turbo this weekend. Possibly tonight, but more likely tomorrow night I'll try to get around to it.

[FraggyA4]

Yea I didn't get around to touching my turbo this weekend. Possibly tonight, but more likely tomorrow night I'll try to get around to it.

Beer helps get things going

[aluthman]

Disassembly in progress. Having a hell of a time getting that snap ring out with my shitty snap ring pliers...

[FraggyA4]

Disassembly in progress. Having a hell of a time getting that snap ring out with my shitty snap ring pliers...

I pryed it out with a pick, beer is also a solution to this.

[Denio24]

I'm totally dig'n this Fragmeister.

Looked for a bit, is there an OE KO3 kit out there?

And what of the issue of balancing? I'm reading that there is a procedure of marking the two wheels' designation to each other, Okay.

Check with melett kits, those are VERY good quality, though I think you have to register as a business to buy from them. Other than that, I think midwest turbo connection stocks melett kits. You can ask them - they are a nice group of guys that can definitely help you out. The part number for the kit, twin feed, and single feed, respectively, is 1302-003-751 and 1302-003-752

As far as balancing, if anything goes out of spec and you mess up, a rebalance should be around $30-$50. But rule of thumb is mark the compressor nut, and compressor wheel in relation to the turbine shaft. You can also take a ruler and just match and mark the turbine wheel and the compressor wheel if it's easier. I forgot the torque for the nut, but if i find my workshop notebook I could tell you exactly. I remember reading somewhere it was 18 inch lbs w/ 1/8 additional turn. Blue loctite wouldn't hurt.

[aluthman]

I pryed it out with a pick, beer is also a solution to this.

Good call. Any issue getting it back in?

[FraggyA4]

Good call. Any issue getting it back in?

Nope just work it back in like a C-clip on a piston.

[aluthman]

Ok, I was dumb and took pictures of everything except how the CHRA was clocked in the exhaust housing. Can anyone help me out? there are holes in the mating v-band flanges that I think could be used to align it, but the oil drain is not pointing straight down. I don't want to clock it wrong and have it cause problems.

[FraggyA4]

Ok, I was dumb and took pictures of everything except how the CHRA was clocked in the exhaust housing. Can anyone help me out? there are holes in the mating v-band flanges that I think could be used to align it, but the oil drain is not pointing straight down. I don't want to clock it wrong and have it cause problems.

There should be a pin on the housing that aligns it into the hole on CHRA or vise versa

[aluthman]

Ok, that's the holes I'm seeing then. I guess my pin fell out somewhere?

[FraggyA4]

Ok, that's the holes I'm seeing then. I guess my pin fell out somewhere?

I'm guessing that is what happened. Take a marker and mark where the hole is in respect to the vband on both the housing and chra and line it up that way. You can always loosen the vband while it's install if one of your lines doesn't line up.

[aluthman]

Was your shaft and turbine wheel hard to get back into the chra after putting a new c-clip on it? I had to hit mine rather hard to get it to seat.

[FraggyA4]

Was your shaft and turbine wheel hard to get back into the chra after putting a new c-clip on it? I had to hit mine rather hard to get it to seat.

Yeah it was a pretty tight fit. Just make sure it spins freely and you will be good.

[aluthman]

It was able to spin pretty good after dripping some oil in the bearing and spinning it a few times by hand.

[FraggyA4]

It was able to spin pretty good after dripping some oil in the bearing and spinning it a few times by hand.

If you don't feel anything catch then button everything up and slap that bitch back on the car.

[aluthman]

That's the plan. May do some welding on my downpipe first though.

[vce1232000]

I was able to spin pretty good after dripping some oil in hand.

[eek]WTF......

[aluthman]

[o_o]

I can assure you, all oil on my hand was turbo related. Nothing to see here..

[vce1232000]

[o_o]

I can assure you, all oil on my hand was turbo related. Nothing to see here..

http://www.sherv.net/cm/emo/lol/smiley-lol.gif (http://www.sherv.net/)

[aluthman]

This is where I started after the correct rebuild kit came in the mail.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpskt4x76iq.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpskt4x76iq.jpg.html)

Undo nut (reverse threaded) and pry off compressor wheel with screwdrivers.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsts29ce5k.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsts29ce5k.jpg.html)

This little guy will push out with your thumb.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps9b5lkoli.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps9b5lkoli.jpg.html)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsv01dviso.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsv01dviso.jpg.html)

Pulled the guts out.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpseuqxycv9.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpseuqxycv9.jpg.html)

Pry off this little ring. I used my snap ring pliers and a small screwdriver. Then I spent some time cleaning gunk off the shaft and wheel, being careful to avoid scratching the bearing surface.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpssl5h5fpz.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpssl5h5fpz.jpg.html)

Put new guts back in.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zps1m44d6jz.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zps1m44d6jz.jpg.html)

Put shaft and turbine wheel back in and remount compressor wheel and backing plate. I dripped some oil down into the bearing to help things slide in. This may require a few taps of a dead blow hammer to seat the new c-clip you put on the shaft. Reattach the CHRA to the exhaust housing. I had to use a wire wheel on my drill to clean the housing enough to get them to slide together easily.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsuasvifg5.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsuasvifg5.jpg.html)

Reattach compressor housing.
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/image_zpsvu82ipyw.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/image_zpsvu82ipyw.jpg.html)

[FraggyA4]

Great Job Man! Not so bad after all. Your pictures are much better then mine. Hopefully between you and Charles this thread will be a pretty powerful source for others. I might copy your post and move it up to the front with mine so others don't have to dig through to find it.

[aluthman]

That was professional iphone 5s photography!

[FraggyA4]

That was professional iphone 5s photography!

Better then my busted HTC One M7 I used to have.

[Charles.waite]

Yea awesome update for sure.

Things have conspired to keep pushing this rebuild back. It's a slim possibility I'll get it done tonight but more likely is Thursday. Shit keeps coming up in the evenings...

[aluthman]

So the turbo is back in the car... It runs and idles fine, but there is no boost. The boost gauge will go from vacuum to 0 psi when you get on the throttle, but it never goes any higher. I verified the N75 is plugged in and all lines are connected to it. The turbo spun by hand prior to installing and I dribbled oil into the chra so it wouldn't start dry right off the bat. I can't really hear it spinning either. Did I screw up something dumb, or is it something bad like a seized turbo shaft?

[Charles.waite]

Did you use oil or assembly lube when putting everything back together?

[aluthman]

Did you use oil or assembly lube when putting everything back together?

Oil

Edit: I guess I'm pulling the turbo again. We'll see what it looks like when it comes out. I may just send it off to get rebuilt.

[Jake@JHM]

If it is screwed up, our stage 3 kit is around the corner!

[aluthman]

If it is screwed up, our stage 3 kit is around the corner!

How around the corner? I want to know if I need to get it rebuilt professionally or not. The car is driveable technically, but I'd rather keep it to a minimum. If you can give me a timeframe in a PM, that'd be great.

[vce1232000]

How around the corner? If you can give me a timeframe

http://www.sherv.net/cm/emo/laughing/hysterical-laughter-smiley-emoticon.gif (http://www.sherv.net/)

[Andrew149]

How around the corner? I want to know if I need to get it rebuilt professionally or not. The car is driveable technically, but I'd rather keep it to a minimum. If you can give me a timeframe in a PM, that'd be great.
On another Thread Jake said there is a customer getting his state 3 installed already this week.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[FraggyA4]

Oil

Edit: I guess I'm pulling the turbo again. We'll see what it looks like when it comes out. I may just send it off to get rebuilt.

I'm guessing you didn't torque something correctly as in the turbine might be spinning but not the compressor wheel.

[aluthman]

I'm guessing you didn't torque something correctly as in the turbine might be spinning but not the compressor wheel.

I actually don't think it is spinning at all.

[FraggyA4]

I actually don't think it is spinning at all.

take off your intake and put your phone down on there and video tape it.

[aluthman]

I'm just going to pull the downpipe and try spinning the turbine by hand. If it doesn't spin, I'm pulling the turbo again. I think I may have found a place locally that rebuilds them.

[FraggyA4]

I'm just going to pull the downpipe and try spinning the turbine by hand. If it doesn't spin, I'm pulling the turbo again. I think I may have found a place locally that rebuilds them.

That's a good start, while you are down there make sure your wastegate is hooked up still.

[FraggyA4]

Now that I go look back at your pictures it appears your journal bearing isn't the same as the original. I'm guess this is your problem because you probably not getting proper oil flow.

You wanted one that looked like this kit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Repair-Rebuild-Rebuilt-kit-for-KKK-K03-K04-5303-711-0001-Major-parts/111681925107?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D31193%26meid%3D1de81b169fad4c4682f9e10c1eb9 542f%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D301 415873260

[aluthman]

Now that I go look back at your pictures it appears your journal bearing isn't the same as the original. I'm guess this is your problem because you probably not getting proper oil flow.

You wanted one that looked like this kit.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Repair-Rebuild-Rebuilt-kit-for-KKK-K03-K04-5303-711-0001-Major-parts/111681925107?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D31193%26meid%3D1de81b169fad4c4682f9e10c1eb9 542f%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D301 415873260

That's a possibility. I still have the old rebuild kit that has a bearing like that. Maybe I could swap it out and possibly salvage everything.

[FraggyA4]

That's a possibility. I still have the old rebuild kit that has a bearing like that. Maybe I could swap it out and possibly salvage everything.

I'm sure it's all fine its just a matter of not being able to maintain proper oil pressure with that bearing due to the large holes. Should be a quick swap. Also the exhaust housing will pop off much easier this time.

[Charles.waite]

Damn. I got that same rebuild kit with the "Dual channel" bearing. LINK (http://www.ebay.com/itm/281696992066?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

Damnit...

Edit: ******s listed the rebuild kit product number wrong.
The correct one should be: 5303-711-0000
The one you listed has that in the body of the ad, but the title shows: 5303-711-0001. When you put that 0001 in, you get the dual channel bearing which is what I got. I just copy pasted the title in and bought the kit I got. I should have pasted the 0000 part number. Ugh....

[aluthman]

Damn. I got that same rebuild kit with the "Dual channel" bearing. LINK (http://www.ebay.com/itm/281696992066?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

Damnit...

Well, the good news is that it was only $20. I think the other kit I have might have enough parts in common to allow me a second chance at rebuilding it.

[aluthman]

Contact the seller and see if they will send you just a bearing.

[Charles.waite]

Contact the seller and see if they will send you just a bearing.

Thats a good call. I'll try to get in touch with them.

[mfdk]

I was wondering if I'm having an issue with my turbo too, or might be the DV valve. Basically i have boost leak somewhere, and the car just don't pick up speed right away. Check engine light says;

Boost Pressure Regulation - P0299 Control Range Not Reached

I also have some smoke coming out of exhaust only when the car is De-accelerating or coming to a stop but never on acceleration or idling, it does it for couple seconds and it smells pretty bad. I am not sure if that's related to the turbo or not.

Thanks

[aluthman]

I was right. I can't spin the turbine by hand with the downpipe off. Should have the turbo back out tonight for round two.

[aluthman]

Turbo is out and apart. It doesn't appear to be a bearing issue. The backing plate for the compressor wheel is somehow pinching something when it is placed inside the comp housing and torqued. Once the chra was out, it spun freely again. Any ideas Fraggy? You're pretty much the only readily available source of info atm (unless Charles.waite gets his apart and back together successfully).

[aluthman]

Problem solved. We have boost again. The shaft/turbine wheel was too far forward. The little oil seal ring was actually past it's seating groove. This caused everything to bind up when the housings were back in place and tightened down. I'm going to take it easy for a few miles to let it break in a bit, but I was able to hit 15 psi no problem. I'll be tracking my oil consumption to see if it has improved any.

[Charles.waite]

Problem solved. We have boost again. The shaft/turbine wheel was too far forward. The little oil seal ring was actually passed it's seating groove. This caused everything to bind up when the housings were back in place and tightened down. I'm going to take it easy for a few miles to let it break in a bit, but I was able to hit 15 psi no problem. I'll be tracking my oil consumption to see if it has improved any.

Sweetness.

[aluthman]

Lesson to be learned: Make sure the turbo spins after it's back together but before it goes back into the car. Otherwise you may end up having to pull the damn thing again.

[mfdk]

I took my turbo apart and here is what i found, beside the obvious oil leak what about the inlet broken fan tabs... its a lot worst then it looks on the picture. Is this worth repairing?

http://i.imgur.com/W6uJoQv.jpg?2

http://i.imgur.com/NMnS7GP.jpg?2

Thanks

[aluthman]

I took my turbo apart and here is what i found, beside the obvious oil leak what about the inlet broken fan tabs... its a lot worst then it looks on the picture. Is this worth repairing?

Thanks

With as cheap as used K03s are, just buy a used one and rebuild it. I'm willing to bet all the new parts would be more than a used turbo and rebuild kit.

[mfdk]

With as cheap as used K03s are, just buy a used one and rebuild it. I'm willing to bet all the new parts would be more than a used turbo and rebuild kit.

I haven't come across a used one anywhere online, i've seen aftermarket ones for $450 but but not oenm used one, could you point me to where i could find them.

Thanks

[aluthman]

They frequently pop up in the classifieds here for $100-$300 depending on mileage. There is also normally a good selection of them for sale on ebay.


Found this one with a quick search. $215 buy it now and add in a ~$20 rebuild kit and you're good to go. You'll have to reuse the compressor housing from your old turbo though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Charger-K03-KKK-2-0T-BPY-06-08-VW-Jetta-GTI-Audi-A3-Passat-06F-145-701-C-/281650826464?hash=item4193b28ce0&vxp=mtr

[mfdk]

They frequently pop up in the classifieds here for $100-$300 depending on mileage. There is also normally a good selection of them for sale on ebay.


Found this one with a quick search. $215 buy it now and add in a ~$20 rebuild kit and you're good to go. You'll have to reuse the compressor housing from your old turbo though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Charger-K03-KKK-2-0T-BPY-06-08-VW-Jetta-GTI-Audi-A3-Passat-06F-145-701-C-/281650826464?hash=item4193b28ce0&vxp=mtr

I actually did see that but i thought it wasn't compatible with my BPG engine. This seller on ebay is selling one for $450 http://www.ebay.com/itm/201346319754?_trksid=p2060353.m2763.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Not sure how good it is!

[vce1232000]

I actually did see that but i thought it wasn't compatible with my BPG engine. This seller on ebay is selling one for $450 http://www.ebay.com/itm/201346319754?_trksid=p2060353.m2763.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Not sure how good it is!
Sounds like one of those cheap [poop]chinese knock of replacement parts[eek]. For that $450.00 you can get a replacement OEM quality chra from a vendor. I used this guy http://timsturbos.com/ and he has quality stuff and probably can [wrench] yours with a warranty

[mfdk]

Sounds like one of those cheap [poop]chinese knock of replacement parts[eek]. For that $450.00 you can get a replacement OEM quality chra from a vendor. I used this guy http://timsturbos.com/ and he has quality stuff and probably can [wrench] yours with a warranty


That's why i asking, it sounded too good to be true.

Thanks

[Charles.waite]

That's why i asking, it sounded too good to be true.

Thanks

Yea. Any non-oem turbo on eBay that sounds too good to be true DEFINITELY is too good to be true.

Those knockoff turbos sorta work for a while, but sooner rather than later it'll fail again.

[FraggyA4]

Lesson to be learned: Make sure the turbo spins after it's back together but before it goes back into the car. Otherwise you may end up having to pull the damn thing again.

Glad to hear you got it worked out. I would of had no clue what was wrong. I someone got through mine with no issues. Did you end up swapping the bearing?

[mfdk]

Yea. Any non-oem turbo on eBay that sounds too good to be true DEFINITELY is too good to be true.

Those knockoff turbos sorta work for a while, but sooner rather than later it'll fail again.

I called Shokan and they gave me $650 plus shipping from used car.

[Charles.waite]

I called Shokan and they gave me $650 plus shipping from used car.

Considering I got my used OEM turbo for $125 on Craigslist, that is in no way what any sane person could consider a deal.

[mfdk]

Considering I got my used OEM turbo for $125 on Craigslist, that is in no way what any sane person could consider a deal.

I wish i could find one for that price, I'm still looking around please let me know if you find a deal like that, because I'm not really willing to shell that much money for a used one

Appreciate it.

[Charles.waite]

I wish i could find one for that price, I'm still looking around please let me know if you find a deal like that, because I'm not really willing to shell that much money for a used one

Appreciate it.

Of course man. I'll try to find some deals for you. And the $125 was shipped, I found it in Eugene, Oregon and I'm in Seattle. The seller even took a video showing minimal shaft play and emailed it to me.

[mfdk]

What you guys think about this, it does say compatible from 08 to 09 audi a4 though
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PULL-OFF-OEM-TURBOCHARGER-W-MANIFOLD-06H-145-702L-2008-2009-AUDI-A4-A5-Q5/301647131562?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D31236%26meid%3D00c76524900545fb85175eea9cf0 d01e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D2817 02224772&rt=nc#vi-ilComp

[FraggyA4]

What you guys think about this, it does say compatible from 08 to 09 audi a4 though
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PULL-OFF-OEM-TURBOCHARGER-W-MANIFOLD-06H-145-702L-2008-2009-AUDI-A4-A5-Q5/301647131562?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D31236%26meid%3D00c76524900545fb85175eea9cf0 d01e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D2817 02224772&rt=nc#vi-ilComp

You have to make minor modifications to your exhaust flange on your cat but it's usable.

[mfdk]

You have to make minor modifications to your exhaust flange on your cat but it's usable.

When you say "minor" what would that include...could i possibly use my exhaust flange instead...?

Thanks

[FraggyA4]

When you say "minor" what would that include...could i possibly use my exhaust flange instead...?

Thanks

You have to use the exhaust housing on the turbo. All you need to do is grind out one the stud holes to get it to fit on.

[Charles.waite]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Charger-K03-KKK-2-0T-BPY-06-08-VW-Jetta-GTI-Audi-A3-Passat-06F-145-701-C-/281650826464?hash=item4193b28ce0&vxp=mtr

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Charger-K03-KK3-2-0T-BPY-06-08-VW-Jetta-GTI-Audi-A3-Passat-06F-145-701-E-/311380609925?hash=item487fbb0b85&vxp=mtr

Those are both transverse turbos, so you would have to swap the compressor housing on each, but otherwise would bolt right up. Warning, though, the first ad says it has "some shaft play" so it would require a rebuild.

[mfdk]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Charger-K03-KKK-2-0T-BPY-06-08-VW-Jetta-GTI-Audi-A3-Passat-06F-145-701-C-/281650826464?hash=item4193b28ce0&vxp=mtr

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Charger-K03-KK3-2-0T-BPY-06-08-VW-Jetta-GTI-Audi-A3-Passat-06F-145-701-E-/311380609925?hash=item487fbb0b85&vxp=mtr

Those are both transverse turbos, so you would have to swap the compressor housing on each, but otherwise would bolt right up. Warning, though, the first ad says it has "some shaft play" so it would require a rebuild.

In this case i just have to play around to get the compressor housing in the right position so it lines up correctly with the rest of the pipes and so on!

[mfdk]

You have to use the exhaust housing on the turbo. All you need to do is grind out one the stud holes to get it to fit on.

If i was going to use my exhaust housing then i don't need to do any further modification correct?

[Charles.waite]

If i was going to use my exhaust housing then i don't need to do any further modification correct?

ASSUMING the CHRA is the same design as the b7 k03. The B8 and up K03 is made by IHI, not BorgWarner, so its very likely the housings aren't compatible. The compressor housing hooks up to the rest of the engine the same though. and the Exhaust housing bolts to the head the same, but the turbo->cat flange bolts are in slightly different locations.

I've also heard the IHI k03 flows more than the oem K03 on our cars, so I'm not super confident that its a direct bolt on solution.

[FraggyA4]

ASSUMING the CHRA is the same design as the b7 k03. The B8 and up K03 is made by IHI, not BorgWarner, so its very likely the housings aren't compatible. The compressor housing hooks up to the rest of the engine the same though. and the Exhaust housing bolts to the head the same, but the turbo->cat flange bolts are in slightly different locations.

I've also heard the IHI k03 flows more than the oem K03 on our cars, so I'm not super confident that its a direct bolt on solution.

The IHI is housing can't be swapped out with the BW K03. The turbine sizes are different from each other. The best way to use and IHI is to find one from a passat or a4. Otherwise it's a lot more work to swap them out. It does flow slightly more but also apparently has surging issues.

[mfdk]

In that case, I would be better off with the http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Charger-K03-KK3-2-0T-BPY-06-08-VW-Jetta-GTI-Audi-A3-Passat-06F-145-701-E-/311380609925?hash=item487fbb0b85&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true.

Since the only modification is the compressor, then i might as well go with this.

[vce1232000]

The other plan would be to take it to a rebuilder[wrench] and then youll have a rebuilt CHRA instead of a used 1 for about the same price[confused]

[Charles.waite]

In that case, I would be better off with the http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Charger-K03-KK3-2-0T-BPY-06-08-VW-Jetta-GTI-Audi-A3-Passat-06F-145-701-E-/311380609925?hash=item487fbb0b85&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true.

Since the only modification is the compressor, then i might as well go with this.

Yea I would do that. all you do is remove the 6 or so compressor housing bolts, swap the housings, and bolt it back up. I wouldn't mess around with trying to make a b8 IHI K03 turbo work, not worth the hassle.

[mfdk]

Yea I would do that. all you do is remove the 6 or so compressor housing bolts, swap the housings, and bolt it back up. I wouldn't mess around with trying to make a b8 IHI K03 turbo work, not worth the hassle.

Much appreciated from all of you, its order time and i will keep you guys posted once i recieve it and put it back together.

[mfdk]

Update,

Alright lads, i finally got the chance to work on my turbo and I'm extremely happy with the results, so basically i bought this http://www.ebay.com/itm/311380609925?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT suggested by " Charles.waite". I did have to make some modification as mentioned above by " Charles.waite", but apparently it wasn't just the Compressor housing that i had to use from my turbo, i also had to use the exhaust manifold due to the outlet screws connecting to cat were much wider, i also had to use my boost actuator and i was good to go.

No more oil burning, power is good, my CHRA was so bad i think the turbo probably stop working for a while, there was so much carbon build almost as bad as my intake valves, i still have an issue with intake cam positioner but that's another issue for a different thread.

Thank You very much

[vce1232000]

So you basically just used the CHRA from the transverse set up onto the longitude A4[confused]

[aluthman]

So you basically just used the CHRA from the transverse set up onto the longitude A4[confused]

Sounds like it. If you get a good deal on a transverse turbo, why not?

[vce1232000]

Sounds like it. If you get a good deal on a transverse turbo, why not?
But a new replacement CHRA non chinese brand would have costed 350.00 with a 12 months or 12k mile warranty[drool]

I found a used APR KO4 complete 1st generation on VWvortex for 400.00 shipped with 5k miles on it[up]. I sent it to Tims Turbo and I still had it rebuilt for 450.00 with the 360 thrust bearing and 10 degree wheel clipping and some other goodies including a 12 month or [drive]12k warranty. I wasnt taking any chances of doing double [wrench]

[aluthman]

But a new replacement CHRA non chinese brand would have costed 350.00 with a 12 months or 12k mile warranty[drool]

I found a used APR KO4 complete 1st generation on VWvortex for 400.00 shipped with 5k miles on it[up]. I sent it to Tims Turbo and I still had it rebuilt for 450.00 with the 360 thrust bearing and 10 degree wheel clipping and some other goodies including a 12 month or [drive]12k warranty. I wasnt taking any chances of doing double [wrench]

Lol, I spent $40 on a rebuild kit. I did have to remove/reinstall my turbo twice though because I was dumb.

[vce1232000]

Lol, I spent $40 on a rebuild kit. I did have to remove/reinstall my turbo twice though because I was dumb.
lol.... Its called a learning curve[;)]... Also I researched how important it was to balance it[confused]. I knew there was no way for me to do that professionally [=(]. Besides Im getting lazy in my old age[facepalm]

BTW the clipping mod on the fins do work[up]. It spools quicker to get to the mid rpm range and seems to hold the boast spike longer into the duration of the mid range powerband

[aluthman]

lol.... Its called a learning curve[;)]... Also I researched how important it was to balance it[confused]. I knew there was no way for me to do that professionally [=(]. Besides Im getting lazy in my old age[facepalm]

BTW the clipping mod on the fins do work[up]. It spools quicker to get to the mid rpm range and seems to hold the boast spike longer into the duration of the mid range powerband

I was only trying to fix my oil consumption issue. I'll eventually upgrade my turbo, so I wasn't too concerned with balancing. I just marked everything before taking it apart and put it back together the same way. It seems to work just as good as before.

[vce1232000]

I was only trying to fix my oil consumption issue. I'll eventually upgrade my turbo, so I wasn't too concerned with balancing. I just marked everything before taking it apart and put it back together the same way. It seems to work just as good as before.
I plan on using this turbo until I cant [wrench]rebuild it no more or until the wheel falls of the car[eek]. If this turbo goes again. Im thru with APR stuff. Im gonna rock a JHM stage 3 BT. Even thou that log manifold looks like [poop]...lol [facepalm]

[aluthman]

I'm still planning to get a twin scroll EFR 7163 and build my own manifold.

[allstock]

Adam, what was the result if any with your oil burning issue. Turbo rebuild help it subside any?

[aluthman]

Still not sure of that. I need a new front tire. It wore pretty badly when my 034 UCAs wore out and now it howls going down the interstate, so I've been driving my truck the past week or so. I'm going to replace tie rods, get a new tire and an alignment soon.

[vce1232000]

I'm still planning to get a twin scroll EFR 7163 and build my own manifold.
[eek][eek][eek]......[drool]

[mfdk]

So you basically just used the CHRA from the transverse set up onto the longitude A4[confused]

Pretty much it, but this wasn't a chinese knock off, it came of 2007 Audi A3 2.0T with 47k miles on it, and it does have 12 months warranty[wrench]

[vce1232000]

Pretty much it, but this wasn't a chinese knock off, it came of 2007 Audi A3 2.0T with 47k miles on it, and it does have 12 months warranty[wrench]
The Vendors I checked into when I was getting my KO4 CHRA was using non chinese also. With that link you provided http://www.ebay.com/itm/311380609925?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&rmvSB=true it states a 30 day warranty unless stated otherwise

[mfdk]

The Vendors I checked into when I was getting my KO4 CHRA was using non chinese also. With that link you provided http://www.ebay.com/itm/311380609925?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&rmvSB=true it states a 30 day warranty unless stated otherwise

You're right, i must of gotten confused with something else, but nevertheless knowing that it came off an 07 a3 with 43k miles on it I'm ok with it.

[vce1232000]

You're right, i must of gotten confused with something else, but nevertheless knowing that it came off an 07 a3 with 43k miles on it I'm ok with it.
Hey..... What ever works to get your car [wrench]. I had to basically buy a used turbo unit myself with NO WARRANTY[=(] and did the same thing you did. I couldnt use the complete unit I bought off Vortex either[mad]. It was off a GTI FWD. the only thing I could use and needed was the CHRA. But had that rebuilt si I could get the 12/12 warranty

[Charles.waite]

Finally got around to starting the rebuild process on my spare turbo. I also managed to snap one of the ports off the n75, derp...

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160209/4b3475c57a4ab21ceea05dcbd82dcc5b.jpg

Compressor seems to be in good nick:

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160209/c145f7d3a96360fa2b3240410c786007.jpg

But the turbine is coated in this crust pink stuff.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160209/f41f76bd63e8856df18d6bc66f845c6d.jpg

Might see if any local shops can media blast it for me since it's nasty...

Also I got hung up on removing the compressor wheel. I was trying to pry on it with the tiniest screwdrivers I had but it seemed like I was beginning to damage the wheel so I stopped. Then later had a flash of brilliance and grabbed my propane torch and heated up the wheel for 20-30 seconds and it fell right off the shaft.

Going to finish up disassembly tomorrow. Might try to call around to a few shops and see if they can blast the turbine clean since it's such a mess. That crust has got to be throwing off the balance some...

[aluthman]

If all else fails, send it to me and I'll blast/ultrasonic tank it for you.

[Charles.waite]

I might take you up on that if I can't find a reasonable place nearby.

I've also been looking for an excuse to buy a soda blaster kit from HF. Sucks that I'm currently not gainfully employed so I can't really justify any expenditures on frivolous stuff...

[Charles.waite]

Stuck trying to get the circlip on the base of the chra back in...ugh

[Endmass]

Stuck trying to get the circlip on the base of the chra back in...ugh

Good snap ring pliers and a hammer/punch.

[Charles.waite]

paging @FraggyA4, any chance you could update the picture links?

[FraggyA4]

paging @FraggyA4, any chance you could update the picture links?

I'll work on it this weekend. I'll have to dig for the images and re-link them. I'll also add a note that there are more images on certain pages.

[aluthman]

Update: One year later, my K0R is still kicking ass and taking names. New engine fixed the oil consumption issues, and the rebuilt turbo has a solid 10k miles on it now with no issues.

[Okedokey]

Spray some phosphoric acid on that white stuff. It will remove the scale without damaging the metal.

[Jet08]

Phosphoric acid is one of the main ingredients in Coca-Cola

[aluthman]

Phosphoric acid is one of the main ingredients in Coca-Cola

Rum is the main ingredient in my Coca-Cola...

[Sanjman]

Captain and cokes. Haven't had one of those since college. Time to upgrade Adam!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

[Audibot]

Ah, K0R. I keep forgetting I have one of those.

[aluthman]

Captain and cokes. Haven't had one of those since college. Time to upgrade Adam!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

I normally drink IPAs, Porters, scotch, or bourbon. Rum is my first choice to go with coke though. Captain's Private Stock all the way!

[Jake@JHM]

I normally drink IPAs, Porters, scotch, or bourbon. Rum is my first choice to go with coke though. Captain's Private Stock all the way!

I am a rummy

[Sanjman]

While we've upgraded, I still find myself picking up a bud light:)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

[Charles.waite]

I only drink light beer if I'm planning on drinking all day. Otherwise it's IPAs and Pales for me.

Also rum isn't my fave. I'm a whiskey/scotch kinda guy.

Also I have an annoying propensity to pick pink-ish drinks at bars. I ain't even ashamed.

[Jake@JHM]

I only drink light beer if I'm planning on drinking all day. Otherwise it's IPAs and Pales for me.

Also rum isn't my fave. I'm a whiskey/scotch kinda guy.

Also I have an annoying propensity to pick pink-ish drinks at bars. I ain't even ashamed.

I can't stand light beer. Drank way to much of it in HS.

I used to drink a lot of whisky but now it's all rum. I do keep a bottle of honey whisky on hand though.

[armynavy17]

OK, I've read this thread at least a dozen times and I found it using the search function, so I'm starting off on the right foot. I can't for the life of me decide which rebuild kit I need though. This kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/KKK-K03-K04-Turbo-Turbochar-Repair-Rebuild-Service-Kit-Kits-5303-711-0000/111859722502?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D37182%26meid%3D041ff63a1418410a99ebed12d524 7dad%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D3014 15873260 has the the same looking journal bearing as aluthman's disassembly pics. But this kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Repair-Rebuild-Rebuilt-kit-for-KKK-K03-K04-5303-711-0001-Major-parts-Dual-/291653029968?hash=item43e7e01050:g:occAAOSwa39U0H-t looks like the "dual channel" kit that both aluthman and Charles.waite used. Of course the kit linked in the first post has the title of one and the body description of the other. Which one do I get?

[aluthman]

I realized after rebuilding mine that either bearing will work, although the dual channel bearing is kind of an upgrade of sorts.

[Charles.waite]

You can get either. I ended up getting the dual channel accidentally and buying a regular one separately. Was going to use the dual channel but a buddy had an emergency and I sold him my rebuilt turbo because he needed far more than I did.

[armynavy17]

Great, I'm all for pseudo upgrades that don't cost anything more. Thanks for the info, time to (hopefully) stop the last of my oil consumption.

[Sanjman]

Seems like the pictures are still down just curious if I really need to take the wastegate off completely or do I just need to disconnect the two 10mm hex bolts and move it out of the way? Just worried about accidentally readjusting it. My wastegate didn't come with the clip that's apparently there to keep both nuts together.

Lastly is it pretty safe to clean all moving exposed parts with engine decreaser or brake cleaner? Someone also recommended brake fluid to clean the gunk off the turbo.
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[aluthman]

My pictures should still be up. You're fine cleaning any of the metal parts with a degreaser.

[Sanjman]

Thanks man going through 23 pages on a phone didn't help me so I busted out the old trusty laptop

[aluthman]

My turbo rebuild pictures are on page 4 of this thread.

[Denio24]

Just did this today, took me 10 minutes aside from splitting the turbo up.

Mark up the housings

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160928/d6f44b8172f60a0e9a5b2040619c063a.jpg

Mark the compressor with the exhaust turbine with a small file, and mark the nut as well. The torque for the compressor nut is 50 degrees at the sign of first resistance. Remove compressor wheel and cover.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160928/6724e9edf28374293bcf5fe2945ccc25.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160928/321a50b4bde3a6b9891b144f502f773d.jpg

Remove internals from compressor side noting orientation. You will get to a circlip. The beveled edges go on top towards the compressor side.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160928/d30ba09892e7c593f3eff6236f464047.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160928/762484c61d46fd2f539cd44666910c23.jpg

Wet and oily mess as my cylinder was leaking. Your carbon will most likely be more difficult to remove as it is baked on.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160928/a6b25be866fa65e4a393233dfdf8f856.jpg

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[Sanjman]

Here's my method for separating the exhaust housing from the chra. Puy the intake housing back on and created a wedge to pull apart (without heat):

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161002/9c29acdde787c27dd259c65c2b24c5e9.jpg

Pryed it lightly on all sides until it started separating. DO NOT TRY TO SPIN THE EXHAUST housings as most people have an alignment pin. This also means you don't have to worry about the mark for the alignment that you should have made regardless for the exhaust side.

My problem right now is getting the compressor wheel off. Not liking the two screwdriver method as I don't have the gap for it. Also is it required to pull the fins off before pulling the disc off after? Figured it would be safer prying them out together so I don't damage or etch off enough metal to fudge the balance.

Also did anyone have luck getting the fins cleaned up?? Thinking just brake clean and copper brush.


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[Denio24]

Here's my method for separating the exhaust housing from the intake housing (without heat):

My problem right now is getting the compressor fins off. Not liking the two screwdriver method as I don't have the gap for it. Also is it required to pull the fins off before pulling the disc off after? Figured it would be safer prying them out together so I don't damage or etch off enough metal to fudge the balance.

Also did anyone have luck getting the fins cleaned up?


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Do you mean the compressor wheel? Just heat it up with propane for 20 seconds and grab some pliers and take it off the shaft.

[Charles.waite]

That two screwdriver method is stupid and when I tried it it started bending and scratching the wheel. It's compression fit so as Denio said, 20 seconds of propane torch on the wheel and it just falls off. Trying to pry it off is stupid. Someone should amend the original posts.

[aluthman]

Mine came off easily with the screwdriver method. If it doesn't come off easily, you should use common sense and stop before damaging the wheel.

[Charles.waite]

Mine came off easily with the screwdriver method. If it doesn't come off easily, you should use common sense and stop before damaging the wheel.

Thems fighting words! Have at you!!

[aluthman]

Yarrr!!!

[Sanjman]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161017/7144d1f88ab432fc2d1c4695f879c907.jpg

Did anyone replace that clip inside? Don't see anyone describe that before. My kit came with one.

Sorry for the slow movement I work on it when Im not doing work work or house projects or taking care of the kid...

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[Denio24]

Yes i did

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[Sanjman]

Please tell me the larger o ring belongs somewhere simple. Just reassembled and was looking through the DIY thought it was extra then saw the old oring sitting at the bottom of my bin.... Faaaack

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161129/3bb5d5fa520c3b73dacbc9bffb1d8f52.jpg

[Denio24]

Please tell me the larger o ring belongs somewhere simple. Just reassembled and was looking through the DIY thought it was extra then saw the old oring sitting at the bottom of my bin.... Faaaack

I believe that oring goes around that aluminum plate that you pop on the CHRA core piston ring.

If I'm not mistaken, it goes under the machined lip of the aluminum plate which you slide on the compressible piston ring on the compressor/turbine shaft.

http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah2/dannydee/s-l1600_zpsgmruv3gp.jpg

You can install this oring before or after you install that plate. Then you can heat up your compressor wheel, line it up, wait till it cools down, and torque your nut. Quick tip, it helps to fabricate a wire that is basically half a rectangle so you can line up your marks on both wheels by eye a lot more accurately (just make sure the wire isn't bent lol). This makes it much easier for installation.

[Charles.waite]

It's between the compressor housing and the CHRA.

[Sanjman]

Thank you thank you I figured it out.

When reinstalling I realized I got a bad part from the kit. The black plate that goes on top of the brass bushing has two tabs for alignment. Each tab has indentation on both sides to allow the tabs to be bent appropriately. One of those indentations wasn't punched out correctly and hitting the compressor plate. Had to use the old one the old one was flawless and definitely built better.

Overall the wheel spins freely and beautifully. There is no more in and out shaft play (Austin Powers voice... Oh yeah baby!). I had to put drops of oil into the oil passage to get rid of some of the friction fit the final test

Can't wait to install it!

[caldy315]

Hate to necrobump but ordered this kit up to freshen up my K03. I noticed some leaking oil from the intercooler hose and from what I read this may help that. Quick question, are all the parts used? There is no label on what anything else, so hopefully all the pictures attached will give me a reference. How have they been holding up for you guys?

[aluthman]

Hate to necrobump but ordered this kit up to freshen up my K03. I noticed some leaking oil from the intercooler hose and from what I read this may help that. Quick question, are all the parts used? There is no label on what anything else, so hopefully all the pictures attached will give me a reference. How have they been holding up for you guys?

Mine worked great for me for 10k-15k miles until I sold it. The new owner used it for probably 2-3 years without issue also. Not sure on the current status of it but you could shoot him a PM and ask. His AZ username is gonemtnbiking (or something like that).

That being said, oil in the IC piping is normal. I wouldn’t rebuild the turbo just because of that alone.

[caldy315]

Mine worked great for me for 10k-15k miles until I sold it. The new owner used it for probably 2-3 years without issue also. Not sure on the current status of it but you could shoot him a PM and ask. His AZ username is gonemtnbiking (or something like that).

That being said, oil in the IC piping is normal. I wouldn’t rebuild the turbo just because of that alone.

Is like a couple cupfuls standard though? I bought and have the kit and it doesn’t look terribly hard. May just have to do it. Stock turbo, 200k+.


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[Jayz691]

No, a little is common. But usually a PCV or cracked valve cover issue.
Is like a couple cupfuls standard though? I bought and have the kit and it doesn’t look terribly hard. May just have to do it. Stock turbo, 200k+.


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[aluthman]

Yeah, that’s excessive but it doesn’t necessarily point to a turbo issue. It could be a number of things.

[Charles.waite]

Yea a bad PCV (or the wrong revision/VIN-Split) could also cause that.

I’ve never really had to drain much oil from with my b6 or b6 IC and inlet pipes but it’s very normal for a 1/4 cup or so of oil. Larger amounts points to an issue with the turbo or the PCV plumbing.

[SoCal Driver]

No, a little is common. But usually a PCV or cracked valve cover issue.


I drain the oil in my charge pipe at every oil change, I usually get 1-2 oz. I just rolled over 150k and stating to wonder if I need to rebuild my turbo too. Between the oil in the charge pipe and now seeing oil leaking from the oil return line (at the turbo) I'm thinking it may be time. My PCV failed and was replaced (under warranty) but then I installed a catch can shortly after that.