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View Full Version : ATW 1.8t No Dash Lights, No Start, Only Cranking, Videos Included. Help a Bro Out.



blackarachnid87
12-14-2014, 07:25 PM
Has anyone ever experienced this before.



http://youtu.be/yBMVZB9lP0g


http://youtu.be/40KKoFcG6RY

ricekikr
12-14-2014, 07:28 PM
Not 100% sure if mine cranked. But the no dash lights and no start was caused by a loose power wire which is mounted on top of the positive battery terminal.

blackarachnid87
12-14-2014, 07:40 PM
Hmmm, I'll inspect that after work tomorrow.

walky_talky20
12-15-2014, 09:04 AM
My vote is for faulty ignition switch. Starter trigger is working, but 15 circuit is dead.

Poopie
12-15-2014, 11:05 PM
I agree with walky. Ignition switch is the likely culprit. It's easy to replace and they are cheap.

walky_talky20
12-16-2014, 05:35 AM
To clarify, my suggestion is not to replace the ignition switch - rather to test it first. Find the fuses that should be "Hot in RUN and START" and see if they are actually getting power. That's the 15 circuit. Generally the black wires going into the rear of the fuse box. A diagram would be good here.

My theory suggests that the 30 circuit (power at all times) and 50 circuit (starter trigger) are working fine, but the 15 circuit (power in RUN and START) is dead. 75x (power in RUN only) might be dead too. I don't have enough data to confirm.

blackarachnid87
12-16-2014, 07:36 PM
A little more of whats happening, the airbag light came on after I left the key in the "On" position for a little while


http://youtu.be/jz9e2KRMKvo


Not 100% sure if mine cranked. But the no dash lights and no start was caused by a loose power wire which is mounted on top of the positive battery terminal.
Checked those, nice and tight


To clarify, my suggestion is not to replace the ignition switch - rather to test it first. Find the fuses that should be "Hot in RUN and START" and see if they are actually getting power. That's the 15 circuit. Generally the black wires going into the rear of the fuse box. A diagram would be good here.

My theory suggests that the 30 circuit (power at all times) and 50 circuit (starter trigger) are working fine, but the 15 circuit (power in RUN and START) is dead. 75x (power in RUN only) might be dead too. I don't have enough data to confirm.

I tested the ignition switch for power today and 15 (the solid black wire) was 4 volts and 50b (the red with black stripe) had 0 volts. everything else had 11.5

walky_talky20
12-17-2014, 08:03 AM
4 volts on black wire with key in RUN position? There's your problem.

If you have 12 volts going in and 4 volts coming out, your switch is dropping 8 volts internally. Probably a good idea to replace it before things really get interesting. Notably, there are zero fuses upstream to protect the ignition switch. If there is a fault which causes a short circuit, no fuses will blow. It will just begin to melt down the harness. Those pesky dashboard fires can really put a damper on your day.

blackarachnid87
12-17-2014, 01:10 PM
4 volts on black wire with key in RUN position? There's your problem.

If you have 12 volts going in and 4 volts coming out, your switch is dropping 8 volts internally. Probably a good idea to replace it before things really get interesting. Notably, there are zero fuses upstream to protect the ignition switch. If there is a fault which causes a short circuit, no fuses will blow. It will just begin to melt down the harness. Those pesky dashboard fires can really put a damper on your day.

Yea definitely don't want any fires happening, that would be muy mal. Ordered a new switch today, should be in tomorrow, thank God for express shipping. Ill test the new before complete install just to be sure, Ill update when all is complete.

Thanks Mr. Talky lol

blackarachnid87
12-29-2014, 04:53 PM
All it took was a new switch, now to deal with this stumbling that as reared its ugly head.