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adam044
12-12-2014, 12:27 PM
Just a fun question that maybe some people will find helpful. You have $1000 to spend to increase your performance on your car. I picked performance because many people come on here asking "how can I make my car faster/quicker?"

Go!

BaseDrifter
12-12-2014, 12:34 PM
Are we talking about a stock car here?

1. New tires - $500
2. Tune - $225
3. 710N DV - $50
4. Boost gauge - $150
5. eBay short shifter - $50
6. JHM shift rod linkage and bushing upgrade - $110

Total - $1,085

A little over budget. Whatever. Buy a cheaper boost gauge.

SN95Audi87
12-12-2014, 12:36 PM
what I would do replace my stock exhaust system with 034 HFC and Borla Cat back easily a 1000 right there new.

redline380
12-12-2014, 12:36 PM
A chip (duh)
S4 seats, I like mine
I guess a set of tires would be useful
I guess it depends if your car is a sport model or not

redline380
12-12-2014, 12:37 PM
I would do replace my stock exhaust system with 034 HFC and Borla Cat back easily a 1000 right there new.

Another good option. But used exhausts go for half of new, so a good way to save some cash there. Or just get a test pipe and a magnaflow muffler if you want to have plenty of cash left over

SN95Audi87
12-12-2014, 01:01 PM
Another good option. But used exhausts go for half of new, so a good way to save some cash there. Or just get a test pipe and a magnaflow muffler if you want to have plenty of cash left over

Definitely, thats the super economy route. I'm always picky with parts, I never liked anything used or refurbished unless its absolutely necessary lol.

thedownwardsprl
12-12-2014, 01:28 PM
K04 turbo and tune

clumsyme
12-12-2014, 01:55 PM
I would like to see peoples links to these items.

APR stage 1 - $500 http://www.goapr.com/products/ecu_upgrade_a418t.html
034 snub mount - $20 http://www.europaparts.com/034motorsport-snub-mount-034-509-2010.html
ebay short shifter - $24 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-A4-B5-96-01-S5-Short-Shifter-Shift-Quick-VW-Turbo-/280679395013
710N DV - $60 http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/02a/ES2639822/
test pipe - $135 ( i know you can get cheaper) http://www.audiunderground.com/cts-turbo-b5-audi-a4-test-pipe-cts-exh-tdp-001-b5/
Performance brake pads front - $104 http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Braking/Performance/ES248789/
Performance brake pads rear - $80 http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Braking/Performance/Rear/ES642/


Total $923. That leaves $75 for shipping costs or other small things would need to install stuff

adam044
12-12-2014, 02:00 PM
Are we talking about a stock car here?

1. New tires - $500
2. Tune - $225
3. 710N DV - $50
4. Boost gauge - $150
5. eBay short shifter - $50
6. JHM shift rod linkage and bushing upgrade - $110

Total - $1,085

A little over budget. Whatever. Buy a cheaper boost gauge.

Yup stock car. I'll give you a pass for the $85 over.

adam044
12-12-2014, 02:04 PM
I would like to see peoples links to these items.

APR stage 1 - $500 http://www.goapr.com/products/ecu_upgrade_a418t.html
034 snub mount - $20 http://www.europaparts.com/034motorsport-snub-mount-034-509-2010.html
ebay short shifter - $24 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-A4-B5-96-01-S5-Short-Shifter-Shift-Quick-VW-Turbo-/280679395013
710N DV - $60 http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/02a/ES2639822/
test pipe - $135 ( i know you can get cheaper) http://www.audiunderground.com/cts-turbo-b5-audi-a4-test-pipe-cts-exh-tdp-001-b5/
Performance brake pads front - $104 http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Braking/Performance/ES248789/
Performance brake pads rear - $80 http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Braking/Performance/Rear/ES642/


Total $923. That leaves $75 for shipping costs or other small things would need to install stuff

Like the links, good idea. Like where this thread is going too. eBay short shifter seems to be popular.

Started this because after winter Im thinking I may throw $1000 more into the car. I have a tune from speed tuning but I only peak at 13 or so PSI so I don't know what's up with that. Other than that I just have a custom exhaust, boost gauge, & dry air filter in stock box. Everything else is cosmetic/suspension.

Actually I do have the upgraded DV as that's recommended with any tune.

clumsyme
12-12-2014, 02:08 PM
Like the links, good idea. Like where this thread is going too. eBay short shifter seems to be popular.

Started this because after winter Im thinking I may throw $1000 more into the car. I have a tune from speed tuning but I only peak at 13 or so PSI so I don't know what's up with that. Other than that I just have a custom exhaust, boost gauge, & dry air filter in stock box. Everything else is cosmetic/suspension.

Actually I do have the upgraded DV as that's recommended with any tune.

The short shifter is worth it for the cost. I too wanna see links for this stuff because I am always looking for inexpensive options to make the car better.

adam044
12-12-2014, 02:12 PM
So far I think I'd go with:

Different tune
Snub mount seems to be a hands down favorite searching threads (not sure what it involves to install)
S4 Sway Bars
Short Shifter
FMIC (maybe)

BrucexL33
12-12-2014, 02:18 PM
You already have a tune. Save it for when you do a turbo upgrade and require a new tune. Also for the FMIC, not necessary for a stock turbo.

I do not see what type of wheels you have for your car so depending if you want stance over performance, try that. Otherwise get some items you listed. [up]

adam044
12-12-2014, 02:28 PM
I know the FMIC isn't necessary, don't think I will ever do a turbo upgrade on this car. Goal after college in 2 years is to buy a new Audi so I don't want to dump a ton of money into this car. Obviously 2 years is a long time.

I may get the short shifter now. Looks like a quick job, 20 min maybe? Does the stock knob screw right onto that shifter?

BrucexL33
12-12-2014, 02:29 PM
haha well you can have 2 Audi

adam044
12-12-2014, 02:32 PM
Very true. In 2 years it would probably make sense to just keep it because the resale value would be crap. Have some fun with it and beat on it I suppose. Haha.

BrucexL33
12-12-2014, 02:34 PM
Yea and you gotta find a good job to buy a Audi after college [:D]. Which i'm sure you'll get. You might just go 'hell i'm gonna buy me a prius' hahah

adam044
12-12-2014, 02:47 PM
I've got a plan :)

SquishyPanda
12-12-2014, 03:04 PM
I may get the short shifter now. Looks like a quick job, 20 min maybe?

lolololololol

I did it slightly wrong and it was a tremendous pain in the ass. It's only a moderate pain in the ass done correctly. There's just a lot of crap down there that has to be disassembled and moved out of the way.

But yes the stock knob screws right on.

On topic: Tires for sure. I got a set of Bridgestone Potenza (forget the exact model number) for $500. That sounds about average for a set of mid-range summer performance street tires.

Tune: $500 ish for APR or one of the other big names. K0mpressd does them for $250 or something. Definitely worth it.

Can't really comment on exhaust/test pipe since I haven't touched that yet. I'm sure it will help my spool-up but I just don't want the car to be loud.

aysix
12-12-2014, 03:14 PM
i think you would be suprised what a good intercooler can do.

Seerlah
12-12-2014, 03:15 PM
You aren't changing your shifter in 20 minutes.

A4ski
12-12-2014, 03:43 PM
Ooooo, I like this thread. Great idea. Does "Stock" assume otherwise perfect condition? All I hear when I ask what is the easiest way to improve speed is "exhaust, intake, tune." I may get banned from this forum for saying this, but I'd like an exhaust that improves performance without increasing the loudness. Does such a thing exist? Forgive me, I'm an old man, I want speed but not attention.

BaseDrifter
12-12-2014, 03:52 PM
The stock cat is far more restrictive than the actual exhaust is. You can get a high flow cat or test pipe (I'd recommend HFC) to decrease that restriction without increasing the noise at all.

Seerlah
12-12-2014, 04:34 PM
When I was stage 1 with bolt ons, my exhaust was probably my favorite mod. Labree HFC with resonated Milltek exhaust. The stock cat is very very restrictive, and the stock exhaust piping is less than 2".

Resonated Milltek exhaust system: $500 shipped used
Labree HFC: Maybe $280 shipped brand new from Labree ($250 at this time, but price has gone up to $300 now)

Seller for some reason didn't send the Milltek downpipe, so had to have a custom one made in 2.5". That cost me like $250. Had my mechanic install everything for me, so roughly $1,000 said and done. Should have been $750...for a $1500 exhaust system if brand new. Remember, Shop Smart...Shop S-Mart [:p] (bonus points if you know what movie that's from).

slunky
12-12-2014, 06:06 PM
Stuff I need but haven't already paid for (ECU, Diverter Valve, Boost Gauge) yet:

Exhaust tips: $42
Cluster LCD Replacement: $100
Avus S4 6 Spokes: ~$300
Continental ContiPro Tires: $500
Short Shifter: ~$30
LED Interior Lights: $25
16OZ Red Bull: $3
$1000 total

Koldham
12-12-2014, 06:30 PM
16OZ Red Bull: $3


Where? i can only get the 12s for that price lol. the 16s are like a buck fiddy more.

adam044
12-12-2014, 06:35 PM
Is there some picture guide thread out there on how to change the shifter?

adam044
12-12-2014, 06:37 PM
i think you would be suprised what a good intercooler can do.

What is a good intercooler that you recommend?

coolgraymemo
12-12-2014, 06:43 PM
Suspension.
- Vogtland GT3 coilovers appear to be the best coilovers for that budget.

pbcrazy
12-12-2014, 06:52 PM
Where? i can only get the 12s for that price lol. the 16s are like a buck fiddy more.
Or come to any college campus. The monster and red bull guys practically fight to give them away to you

Suspension.
- Vogtland GT3 coilovers appear to be the best coilovers for that budget.
Solowerks are $499.

My picks:
Cheap Laptop: $80
VCDS Licensed version: $99 (or $250 for the cord)
Ebay OBD2 Cord: $10
Ebay Intercooler: $~250
Snub mount: $40
GIAC PC-16: $500?

redline380
12-12-2014, 06:58 PM
Or come to any college campus. The monster and red bull guys practically fight to give them away to you

Solowerks are $499.

My picks:
Cheap Laptop: $80
VCDS Licensed version: $99 (or $250 for the cord)
Ebay OBD2 Cord: $10
Treadstone TR18T Intercooler: $~262.50
Snub mount: $40
GIAC PC-16: $500?


FTFY

Koldham
12-12-2014, 07:00 PM
im around athens ga (UGA) and its never that cheap.

but to add useful content, this is what i would do/have done.

Tune, cat delete, tires, rear swaybar, led interior lights. there's also a laundry list of cheap diy stuff like that sound deadening a few posts down and wrapping various trim in various wraps that can be done for under $100. Using insulated foam tape ($7) under the parcel shelf helps reduce road noise and makes the rear speaker sound a bit better. not so much speed performance but they make the car nicer, and making a "luxury" car nicer is an increase in its performance in that task.

pbcrazy
12-12-2014, 07:17 PM
FTFY

But then you still have to buy piping, so it comes out to more like $400 instead of ~$2-250

coolgraymemo
12-12-2014, 07:23 PM
Solowerks are $499.


But Solowerks are shitty coilovers. Buy something that is performance oriented.

R490
12-12-2014, 07:25 PM
Something Something BBS.

B5nDisciple
12-13-2014, 09:30 AM
But Solowerks are shitty coilovers. Buy something that is performance oriented.

This. Vogtland or ST's at a minimum. IMO it's silly to buy a cheap coilover setup when dealing with such a critical aspect of our vehicles. Unless of course they have the money and plan on upgrading sooner than later. But better to save money long-term and do it right the first time IMO.

Achtuning is selling the GT3 setup for the same price as the standard setup right now too...[wrench] I'm loving mine too as well [:D]

But really OP I would read everyone's suggestions and weigh your options. There is such a huge variety of options and combinations of upgrades you could do for a G, and all of us would probably choose differently at any given time. A lot of our sig's will give you ideas for mods too.

RallyeBourne
12-13-2014, 09:32 AM
1. Boost Gauge - $32
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=290704639449&alt=web

2. Tune from k0mpresd - $220
Just PM him

3. Exhaust - $400
I'm having one made by a local shop, I feel the premade ones are unnecessarily expensive.

4. Test pipe - $60
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=111185558890&alt=web

5. Short shifter - $55
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=221619743899&alt=web

6. FMIC + Piping - $65 + $90
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=151070482471&alt=web
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=231185924002&alt=web

That leaves like $75-$80 for misc shit you'd need.

Cgoon009
12-13-2014, 10:29 AM
Solowerks are a budget coilover. They are stiff, but don't recover too well. I dont mind them, but I would not buy for performance. Vogtland gt3 all the way. To date, still the best coilovers i have owned.

ducksrunner25
12-13-2014, 11:16 AM
I'd go snub nose from blackforestindustries or apr $30 to $40
Second the VCDS licence - $99
Cheap Ross-Tech Compatible Cable from amazon - $12 (when I bought it)
Custom exhaust - I'm going to get a 3in downpipe from 034 ($215), magnaflow muffler ($150ish) or vibrant muffler ($160), custom 3in piping for total of $600.
Haven't don't the short shifter, but I like that idea ($25)
That leaves about $250 to cover taxes and maybe some basic maintenance stuff you might find you needed.

EDIT: Used roof rack $250 [:D]

pbcrazy
12-13-2014, 01:04 PM
Solowerks are a budget coilover. They are stiff, but don't recover too well. I dont mind them, but I would not buy for performance. Vogtland gt3 all the way. To date, still the best coilovers i have owned.

For someone who only drives 3k miles a year, and mostly highway at that, I'll probably go that route. $500 shipped to $750-800 for Vogtland or STs is a big jump, that's nearly a set of tires

coolgraymemo
12-13-2014, 01:24 PM
EDIT: Used roof rack $250 [:D]

How can we forget a roof rack's added performance?

Cybersombosis
12-13-2014, 01:52 PM
Remember, Shop Smart...Shop S-Mart [:p] (bonus points if you know what movie that's from).

That would be Army of Darkness!!!

Doug

adam044
12-13-2014, 02:01 PM
How can we forget a roof rack's added performance?

That's right. My roof racks added 10 HP

BrucexL33
12-13-2014, 02:34 PM
That's right. My roof racks added 10 HP

Yea and that added downforce! Don't forget about that downforce!

Davdraco1
12-13-2014, 06:36 PM
1. Boost Gauge - $32
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=290704639449&alt=web

2. Tune from k0mpresd - $220
Just PM him

3. Exhaust - $400
I'm having one made by a local shop, I feel the premade ones are unnecessarily expensive.

4. Test pipe - $60
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=111185558890&alt=web

5. Short shifter - $55
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=221619743899&alt=web

6. FMIC + Piping - $65 + $90
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=151070482471&alt=web
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=231185924002&alt=web

That leaves like $75-$80 for misc shit you'd need.



How would this fmic set up do? It's so cheap but I guess it would be okay? Has anyone used these??? This would be awesome if it was legit.

RallyeBourne
12-13-2014, 09:56 PM
How would this fmic set up do? It's so cheap but I guess it would be okay? Has anyone used these??? This would be awesome if it was legit.
It's what I'm running now. Bit more pressure drop than a higher end intercoolers, but can't beat it for the price.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/9038a687f3a11e0b043a0d0de01182bc.jpg

I'll find a better picture...

coolgraymemo
12-13-2014, 10:17 PM
It's what I'm running now. Bit more pressure drop than a higher end intercoolers, but can't beat it for the price.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/9038a687f3a11e0b043a0d0de01182bc.jpg

I'll find a better picture...

Interesting. How much did you have to remove from the bumper? Pictures with bumper installed?

viceprp
12-14-2014, 04:04 AM
What package(s) does your car have? If it came with a sport package then skip CO's.

Handling > performance > cosmetic.

I did a tune on stock 4x4 and I felt like I was in a rocking chair when accel/decel.

Suspension
Rear sway bar w/ brackets
tune
Trio ss

That's what I would do.

rodgertherabit
12-14-2014, 06:57 AM
I would suggest considering the following...

All around Upgrades:

A FMIC for sure, Heat soak on these things are CRAZY. There is really no benefit with sticking to the OEM size/location if you are gonna be sporty with the car. Treadstone will be nicer than most if not all ebay stuff. and its 1.8t fitment. few pipes and couplers from Siliconeintakes.com and you are good to go. and theres on GOOD Coilovers. I had a cheap set up, then got some really nice ones (that used koni shocks) and it was night and day!

From there I would focus on tightening up any leaks and getting things cleaned up. If you need more exitement just get a FT, they are fun and provide a good power gain over stock and easy to install on this platform, I had one (on my mkiv) for a few years and it was fantastic. Doug has good service too

RallyeBourne
12-14-2014, 08:24 AM
Interesting. How much did you have to remove from the bumper? Pictures with bumper installed?
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/14/53b439d882c55badeaa4f4d2e9714140.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/14/e5ecdbcbff051b89640f0fc25b77519e.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/14/494676abaea7fbbbae3716c7212a320c.jpg

ducksrunner25
12-14-2014, 11:46 AM
That's right. My roof racks added 10 HP

The question was, what do you upgrade with $1000 bucks. I consider my roof rack an upgrade since I like the look and I don't have to put the back seats down to fit my bikes and ski in the trunk.

pbcrazy
12-14-2014, 11:53 AM
It's what I'm running now. Bit more pressure drop than a higher end intercoolers, but can't beat it for the price.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/9038a687f3a11e0b043a0d0de01182bc.jpg

I'll find a better picture...

That core is upside down btw

coolgraymemo
12-14-2014, 01:59 PM
The question was, what do you upgrade with $1000 bucks. I consider my roof rack an upgrade since I like the look and I don't have to put the back seats down to fit my bikes and ski in the trunk.

Really?


Just a fun question that maybe some people will find helpful. You have $1000 to spend to increase your performance on your car. I picked performance because many people come on here asking "how can I make my car faster/quicker?"

Go!

RallyeBourne
12-14-2014, 02:58 PM
That core is upside down btw
Yes. That was the only way I could get it to fit and clear the A/C lines, without cutting into the actual crash bar. However, I will be getting the plumbing custom fabbed up right after I smog (eff california, btw). When I do that, I'm hoping I can flip it over.

viceprp
12-14-2014, 04:15 PM
Just flip it and cut the crash bar.

andyrew
12-15-2014, 10:19 AM
1. Cheap chip ($250)
2. Muffler delete, Cherrybomb, punch out cat ($50)
3. Rear sway bar ($150)
4. Used decent coil overs, Koni or similar ($500)
5. Boost guage in center vent glued in with PVC plate ($50)

This will let the car handle fantastic and give it the power it needs plus the sound that goes with the package.

adam044
12-16-2014, 08:53 AM
How would this fmic set up do? It's so cheap but I guess it would be okay? Has anyone used these??? This would be awesome if it was legit.

I think the saying "you get what you pay for" goes well here. I don't think I'd waste my time with it.


Edit: saw the pictures, seems very very small not something I would bother with but that's me. Doesn't mean it's not good.

adam044
12-16-2014, 08:56 AM
1. Cheap chip ($250)
2. Muffler delete, Cherrybomb, punch out cat ($50)
3. Rear sway bar ($150)
4. Used decent coil overs, Koni or similar ($500)
5. Boost guage in center vent glued in with PVC plate ($50)

This will let the car handle fantastic and give it the power it needs plus the sound that goes with the package.

Which sway bars would you go with. I've heard the S4 B5 front/rearones are a good upgrade. I'd gladly buy those now it I found someone selling them for a good price.

harrowb5
12-16-2014, 09:27 AM
diy vent gauge =50 bucks and some time
giac x =350
dv from CL=50
Lowering springs w/shocks and or coilovers from CL=300
ebay turbo inlet pipe=50
ebay test pipe with defouler= 60

=860 all together (only if you could find things on CL)

i would do that for a budget build just to give a dd a bit more powa

harrowb5
12-16-2014, 09:36 AM
get the 034 one with the sub frame brackets 25mm of pure fun you could upgrade to there end links too, The stock S4 ones are just an over sized coat hanger lol

man n black
12-16-2014, 09:50 AM
Lambo doors!

Ch

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

adam044
12-16-2014, 09:54 AM
diy vent gauge =50 bucks and some time
giac x =350
dv from CL=50
Lowering springs w/shocks and or coilovers from CL=300
ebay turbo inlet pipe=50
ebay test pipe with defouler= 60

=860 all together (only if you could find things on CL)

i would do that for a budget build just to give a dd a bit more powa

Does a different turbo inlet pipe do much?

adam044
12-16-2014, 09:54 AM
get the 034 one with the sub frame brackets 25mm of pure fun you could upgrade to there end links too, The stock S4 ones are just an over sized coat hanger lol

Link?

Yeah not for that price. Not building a track car. http://store.034motorsport.com/034motorsport-solid-rear-sway-bar-b4-b5-audi-s2-rs2-a4-s4-rs4-quattro-adjustable.html

Stick with my S4 ones, won't have to worry about cracking anything either.

pbcrazy
12-16-2014, 10:19 AM
Does a different turbo inlet pipe do much?

Nope. Neither does a silicone intercooler-throttle body hose, they claim less turbance which might be true, but would have no measurable performace increase at all. Waste of money

adam044
12-16-2014, 10:22 AM
Nope. Neither does a silicone intercooler-throttle body hose, they claim less turbance which might be true, but would have no measurable performace increase at all. Waste of money

Okay thought so. Just for looks.

adam044
12-16-2014, 10:31 AM
BaseDrifter I see you the the S4 rear sway bar, noticeable upgrade? Is it just remove the stock A4 sway bar and bolt on the S4 one or do you need something else?

harrowb5
12-16-2014, 10:34 AM
http://store.034motorsport.com/034motorsport-solid-rear-sway-bar-b4-b5-audi-s2-rs2-a4-s4-rs4-quattro-adjustable.html

this is the link for it and for the Turbo inlet hose it is more of a pm thing just cause our engines get very hot thing wear out especially all those rubber components inside our engine bays and if you can easily squeeze your TIP imagine how your turbo feels in boost its like trying to drink a milkshake and the straw collapses same thing i would do it if ur running more boost then stock thats my 2cents

pbcrazy
12-16-2014, 10:42 AM
Good lord man use some periods and commas. If your TIP has a hole in it or is dry rotted, then yes a new one will be better for your car. But the TIP collapsing has never been proven, which is why a ton of people still use the stock TIP with 0 problems even with different mods.

harrowb5
12-16-2014, 10:47 AM
Good lord man use some periods and commas. If your TIP has a hole in it or is dry rotted, then yes a new one will be better for your car. But the TIP collapsing has never been proven, which is why a ton of people still use the stock TIP with 0 problems even with different mods.

Buhahahaha my bad, And I rather be safe then sorry.

BaseDrifter
12-16-2014, 11:11 AM
BaseDrifter I see you the the S4 rear sway bar, noticeable upgrade? Is it just remove the stock A4 sway bar and bolt on the S4 one or do you need something else?

It's definitely worth the $50 if you don't have the sport suspension already. You don't need support brackets to use the S4 bar, it just bolts up.

The 034 RSB and brackets will be a much more significant upgrade, but it will also cost you 8x as much money.

un1ko
12-16-2014, 12:48 PM
Aww man $1000 bucks!

I'd buy 1600cc injectors.

Get my car tuned

and I hope I have enough to get a 12pk of Blue Moon! [drool]

un1ko
12-16-2014, 12:54 PM
I would suggest considering the following...

All around Upgrades:

A FMIC for sure, Heat soak on these things are CRAZY. There is really no benefit with sticking to the OEM size/location if you are gonna be sporty with the car. Treadstone will be nicer than most if not all ebay stuff. and its 1.8t fitment. few pipes and couplers from Siliconeintakes.com and you are good to go.

I agree. Treadstone sells good intercoolers for cheap!

adam044
12-16-2014, 08:34 PM
It's definitely worth the $50 if you don't have the sport suspension already. You don't need support brackets to use the S4 bar, it just bolts up.

The 034 RSB and brackets will be a much more significant upgrade, but it will also cost you 8x as much money.

Cool, why didn't you also get the s4 front bar? I have Bilstein struts w H&R race springs.

The price of the 034 sway bar isn't worth it to me. It would probably be closer to $350 work everything you would need. And then I would always be worried about cracking something which would be a nightmare

adam044
12-16-2014, 08:36 PM
It's what I'm running now. Bit more pressure drop than a higher end intercoolers, but can't beat it for the price.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/13/9038a687f3a11e0b043a0d0de01182bc.jpg

I'll find a better picture...


So what's a "bit more pressure drop than other" exactly

RallyeBourne
12-16-2014, 09:42 PM
So what's a "bit more pressure drop than other" exactly
I'm getting about 2psi drop from the stock smic, most reputable fmic's claim 1psi.

With that said, I think I'm leaking. I'm hoping to borrow the smoke tester from work this week, so that will tell for sure.

BaseDrifter
12-16-2014, 10:16 PM
Cool, why didn't you also get the s4 front bar? I have Bilstein struts w H&R race springs.

The price of the 034 sway bar isn't worth it to me. It would probably be closer to $350 work everything you would need. And then I would always be worried about cracking something which would be a nightmare
Did your car come with the sport suspension package though? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the sport and S4 rear sway bars are the same. My car came as non-sport, so upgrading to the S4 bar was definitely worth it.

I did get both front and rear S4 sway bars as the guy I bought them from didn't want to split them up. I ran the front bar for awhile but then switched back to the original front bar and was much happier with that set up. A stiffer front sway bar will increase understeer, these cars understeer plenty enough without adding a stiffer front bar. The general consensus is to run the largest rear bar you can while keeping the original front bar. It feels much more neutral going through the corners, front end isn't trying to slide out on you as much.

harrowb5
12-17-2014, 08:45 AM
Cool, why didn't you also get the s4 front bar? I have Bilstein struts w H&R race springs.

The price of the 034 sway bar isn't worth it to me. It would probably be closer to $350 work everything you would need. And then I would always be worried about cracking something which would be a nightmare

isn't that why they made the rear sub frame support bracket so that doesn't happen lol

un1ko
12-17-2014, 09:43 AM
It's definitely worth the $50 if you don't have the sport suspension already. You don't need support brackets to use the S4 bar, it just bolts up.

The 034 RSB and brackets will be a much more significant upgrade, but it will also cost you 8x as much money.

In my personal opinion the 034 RSB is worth every penny of it! I bought a used on and I feel like the car grabs on perfect, it feels like a race car. I totally recommend it over any RSB out there and my previous setup was an S4.

adam044
12-18-2014, 11:56 AM
Did your car come with the sport suspension package though? Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the sport and S4 rear sway bars are the same. My car came as non-sport, so upgrading to the S4 bar was definitely worth it.

I did get both front and rear S4 sway bars as the guy I bought them from didn't want to split them up. I ran the front bar for awhile but then switched back to the original front bar and was much happier with that set up. A stiffer front sway bar will increase understeer, these cars understeer plenty enough without adding a stiffer front bar. The general consensus is to run the largest rear bar you can while keeping the original front bar. It feels much more neutral going through the corners, front end isn't trying to slide out on you as much.

No I don't believe so. It had 15 inch wheels when I bought it so I doubt that would have sport suspension. Way to tell? 99% sure it doesn't have it though.

adam044
12-18-2014, 11:58 AM
In my personal opinion the 034 RSB is worth every penny of it! I bought a used on and I feel like the car grabs on perfect, it feels like a race car. I totally recommend it over any RSB out there and my previous setup was an S4.

Ugh maybe I'll go with it then. Not doing anything until it warms up though so probably the start of May once classes are done also. Now I noticed it says you need more parts than just the bar.

Im not a patient person though so I may end up out there in the snow and 20 degree weather and installing a sway bar.

BaseDrifter
12-18-2014, 12:07 PM
No I don't believe so. It had 15 inch wheels when I bought it so I doubt that would have sport suspension. Way to tell? 99% sure it doesn't have it though.

Do you still have the original shocks? If they are red it had the sport suspension. You could also contact AoA and they should be able to tell you based on your VIN.

adam044
12-18-2014, 12:13 PM
Red stripes on them? Hmmm I actually think they might of, maybe the pictures will still be on my craigslist account.

BaseDrifter
12-18-2014, 12:14 PM
No, they would be solid red.

Like so:

http://i346.photobucket.com/albums/p439/blkA4alb-3/Dads%20B5/DSC05998_zps03a7a2bd.jpg (http://s346.photobucket.com/user/blkA4alb-3/media/Dads%20B5/DSC05998_zps03a7a2bd.jpg.html)

adam044
12-18-2014, 12:17 PM
Oh okay no absolutely not. They were black. Found pictures too.

RallyeBourne
12-27-2014, 12:09 PM
So what's a "bit more pressure drop than other" exactly
I just put my oem smic back on (for smog, I live in Cali). I'm seeing the exact same pressure as with the fmic. So I guess there's really no difference in pressure drop.

Turbo_B5
12-27-2014, 12:30 PM
http://i346.photobucket.com/albums/p439/blkA4alb-3/Dads%20B5/DSC05998_zps03a7a2bd.jpg (http://s346.photobucket.com/user/blkA4alb-3/media/Dads%20B5/DSC05998_zps03a7a2bd.jpg.html)


Sooo little rust. Not what im use to seeing.

un1ko
12-29-2014, 07:27 AM
Ugh maybe I'll go with it then. Not doing anything until it warms up though so probably the start of May once classes are done also. Now I noticed it says you need more parts than just the bar.

Im not a patient person though so I may end up out there in the snow and 20 degree weather and installing a sway bar.

Yeah I recommend getting the sway bar, brackets and the end links. If you don't go with the whole "kit" the OEM brackets and end links can not hold the sway bar. PM 034 and see if they can give you a deal, you can post here too.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/515990-***-GROUP-BUY-034Motorsport-B5-Audi-A4-S4-RS4-Quattro-Adjustable-Rear-Sway-Bar!-***/page6

adam044
01-02-2015, 04:09 PM
Yeah I recommend getting the sway bar, brackets and the end links. If you don't go with the whole "kit" the OEM brackets and end links can not hold the sway bar. PM 034 and see if they can give you a deal, you can post here too.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/515990-***-GROUP-BUY-034Motorsport-B5-Audi-A4-S4-RS4-Quattro-Adjustable-Rear-Sway-Bar!-***/page6

Sent them a PM, unfortunately that thread is closed. Maybe I can get another group buy thread going if I talk to them.

adam044
01-16-2015, 09:11 PM
Who's got something to add?!

RENOxDECEPTION
01-16-2015, 10:24 PM
Methanol and part of a gtx30 turbo

Methanol is good for your engine. It steam cleans the combustion chamber plus it keeps intake and exhaust temps down [up]

bxultra
01-17-2015, 12:39 AM
I think this thread, I think ill be doing the same kinda $1000-$1500 in upgrades after taxes come back. But I have the red shocks so Im guessing I have the sport suspension? This is what I'm looking at doing.

Adams Drilled/Drilled/Slotted Rotors - $350 shipped
Front and Rear Pads - $70
Raceland Ultimos - ~$465 shipped
Vaico Complete Front Control Arm Kit - $250
Complete Rear Tie Rod Kit - $150
Powerflex Street Rear Control Arm Bushing Kit - $260
Front and Rear Wheel Bearing Kits - ~$150

$1700 give or take since ill more than likely have to buy tools unless i can find a friend with the tools where i could do it. Not sure if I even really need new control arms and tie rods but at the least the bushings and wheel bearings probably should get done as i can hear one in the rear. Brakes are defiantly my number one priority then coil overs and control arms and such. I only want the control arms because i was doing coilovers and it just makes sense to try and do as much at one time since ill be down there anyways.

Your thoughts? Mind you car is stock with the exception of exhaust, and wheels.

bxultra
01-17-2015, 12:40 AM
I really like how BaseDrifters suspension and brakes looks, real clean and neat. Kudos to that.

208Audi
04-22-2015, 02:24 PM
So far I think I'd go with:

Different tune
Snub mount seems to be a hands down favorite searching threads (not sure what it involves to install)
S4 Sway Bars
Short Shifter
FMIC (maybe)

Exactly what benefit does the snub mount or DV provide? Serious question.

ray4624
04-22-2015, 02:30 PM
stock dv wears out over time with moderate boost levels.
With a tune, an upgraded dv is a great idea.


snub mount isnt really necessary. The stock one deteriorates and hte aftermarked upgraded replacements are a no brainer when doing the change.

pbcrazy
04-22-2015, 02:31 PM
Exactly what benefit does the snub mount or DV provide? Serious question.
Snub: Reduces front to back movement of the engine, commonly referred to as "slop". However, I have an APR snub and honestly the only thing I felt over the stock one is an increased cabin vibration. My OEM one was probably fine to begin with though.
DV: essentially different diverter valves allow for variying levels of higher boost as well as better durability

redline380
04-22-2015, 02:34 PM
DV: essentially different diverter valves allow for variying levels of higher boost as well as better durability

Not really. Boost stays the same. But it will be more reliable for higher boost. Or is that what you meant, cause I read it differently lol

208Audi
04-22-2015, 02:40 PM
I've beet getting an increasing amount of resistance shifting into 2nd gear. A friend suggested it could be the mounts going to shat and making this hard on the shift (6 mt).

I'm going JHM stage in soon so I guess I should plan on swapping the DV at that time.

pbcrazy
04-22-2015, 02:44 PM
Not really. Boost stays the same. But it will be more reliable for higher boost. Or is that what you meant, cause I read it differently lol
Sorry, I guess I could have worded it better. But yes, more reliable for higher boost and less leaking when you run higher boost (i.e. an oem 710 will open faster than a 710n)

adam044
04-22-2015, 05:30 PM
Glad this thread re surfaced.

I still have to do my snub mount, it's been in my trunk for months now. I need a good write up.

pbcrazy
04-22-2015, 05:42 PM
Glad this thread re surfaced.

I still have to do my snub mount, it's been in my trunk for months now. I need a good write up.

Just loosen up the front end bolts like you are about to do a timing belt (remove bumper, remove side bolts and loosen the 6 bolts on the bumper shocks), cut off the old one (easier than trying to wiggle it off), spray some lubricant on the spindle and the mount and push that shit on

ray4624
04-22-2015, 06:05 PM
You have to remove the bolts by the headlights aswell correct?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

pbcrazy
04-22-2015, 06:16 PM
You have to remove the bolts by the headlights aswell correct?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I didn't, the headlights are screwed into the front clip not the frame (maybe they are on facelift cars? idk).

adam044
04-22-2015, 06:20 PM
Guess I'll start by taking the bumper off and going from there.

redline380
04-22-2015, 06:36 PM
I think he meant the bolts holding the core support on, which do need to be removed. Just did it yesterday.

ray4624
04-22-2015, 06:45 PM
Yea those


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

pbcrazy
04-22-2015, 06:47 PM
Do you mean the bolts on either side where the fender connects? If not I don't remember ever having to remove any others around the headlight

Turbo_B5
04-22-2015, 06:56 PM
Glad this thread re surfaced.

I still have to do my snub mount, it's been in my trunk for months now. I need a good write up.

I used the APR writeup.

adam044
04-22-2015, 06:58 PM
I used the APR writeup.

I'll look for that.

Turbo_B5
04-22-2015, 07:00 PM
I'll look for that.

http://www.goapr.com/support/install/Accessories/Snub%20Mount/B5_snub_mount.pdf [up]

Turbo_B5
04-22-2015, 07:03 PM
Found this from awile back



I followed this DIY http://www.goapr.com/support/install/Accessories/Snub%20Mount/B5_snub_mount.pdf


Heres a tip for the snub mount install. I left the far back t30 bolts in but barely so you can lift the bottom of the rad support. I had no need to remove the 13mm bolts that Bolt the snub mount cage. I did however lift the rad support with a jack to take the weight off the snub before I tightened the bumper support bolts back up. I drained the washer fluid into a washer fluid container to pour back in after. The fluid supply disconects from the bumper easy with a quick connecting hose.

adam044
04-22-2015, 07:17 PM
http://www.goapr.com/support/install/Accessories/Snub%20Mount/B5_snub_mount.pdf [up]

Sweet, maybe I'll actually get this thing done this weekend.

Murph_129
04-22-2015, 08:13 PM
Yea those


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do you mean the bolts on either side where the fender connects? If not I don't remember ever having to remove any others around the headlight

The headlights will come off with the front clip if you leave them be on the facelift.

adam044
04-23-2015, 12:29 PM
If its those headlight bolts that are deep down I took those out once and never put them back because they pissed me off.

redline380
04-23-2015, 12:31 PM
The headlight bolts do not need to be removed. The core support bolts (3 on each side) do need to be removed

blitz2190
04-23-2015, 01:23 PM
forgive my ignorance but why not just pull the three bolts holding the mount to the engine drop it out put on your new mount and reinstall? Its ho i did it on my b6 and from the looks its the same on the b5.

these 3 bolts(not my pic found it on here)

http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g455/FinishLineAutoSports/IMG_0653.jpg

adam044
04-23-2015, 01:26 PM
forgive my ignorance but why not just pull the three bolts holding the mount to the engine drop it out put on your new mount and reinstall? Its ho i did it on my b6 and from the looks its the same on the b5.

these 3 bolts(not my pic found it on here)

http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g455/FinishLineAutoSports/IMG_0653.jpg

Wait really? That looks like a 10 minute job from that picture. 20 minutes top.

blitz2190
04-23-2015, 01:28 PM
Wait really? That looks like a 10 minute job from that picture. 20 minutes top.

exactly thats why i dont get why you all said to remove the front end that makes no sense, i was just wondering if i was missing something when i did mine ha.

edit nvm just realised that pic was comparing a b5 mount to a b6, I don't envy you guys haha.

b5 in this thread my bad http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/602353-Problems-installing-Snub-Mount

pbcrazy
04-23-2015, 02:19 PM
B5 has the spindle on the front clip, mount on the engine (opposite of the picture above).

adam044
04-23-2015, 07:52 PM
Aw dang I was excited. Oh well.