Figured out the secret of the B&O system...

[rlfletch]

Turn. it. UP! I was listening to a triple play of AC/DC on HD radio today. Decided to crank the stereo for the first time and was surprised how good it sounded. AC/DC can quickly become muddled on most stereos especially at higher volumes. On the B&O it was clear as a bell with nice staging and tight, appropriate bass. I was surprised because at lower volumes the system sounded clear but not particularly inspiring. I am duly impressed now. Also since I'm new here, the obligatory pic of my ordered and recently delivered 2015 S4:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc26b3127ccef79bd389915d00000030O00Abt2jJi4cOW YPbz4c/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00309881247720141208044219434.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

[raudiace4]

B&O is a must have.

[Dr GP]

B&O is a must have.

No it isn't. Didn't have it on my 2010, had it on my 2014 and current 2011. IMHO,not a HUGE difference. As an aside, I was watching Car Matchmaker on Esquire channel. Spike Feresten provides 3 potential cars for his clients to drive (based on Their criteria)and they pick one to buy. On one episode, stereo system was a major factor. One of the cars for the comparison was a Q5 with a B&O. Other 2 cars were a Jeep and a Range Rover I believe. BUT they judged the B&O to be the worst sounding stereo mostly because of the very weak bass.

[JVDMN]

Sweet looking S4, love the color and wheel combo!!!

[raudiace4]

No it isn't. Didn't have it on my 2010, had it on my 2014 and current 2011. IMHO,not a HUGE difference. As an aside, I was watching Car Matchmaker on Esquire channel. Spike Feresten provides 3 potential cars for his clients to drive (based on Their criteria)and they pick one to buy. On one episode, stereo system was a major factor. One of the cars for the comparison was a Q5 with a B&O. Other 2 cars were a Jeep and a Range Rover I believe. BUT they judged the B&O to be the worst sounding stereo mostly because of the very weak bass.


It is a must for me, there is a very noticeable improvement in sound quality over the base stereo. Not saying the base one is horrible, but there definitely is room for improvement.

[Rez4]

No it isn't. Didn't have it on my 2010, had it on my 2014 and current 2011. IMHO,not a HUGE difference. As an aside, I was watching Car Matchmaker on Esquire channel. Spike Feresten provides 3 potential cars for his clients to drive (based on Their criteria)and they pick one to buy. On one episode, stereo system was a major factor. One of the cars for the comparison was a Q5 with a B&O. Other 2 cars were a Jeep and a Range Rover I believe. BUT they judged the B&O to be the worst sounding stereo mostly because of the very weak bass.

That's probably because they were listening to dubstep or some hip hop. I find the B&O to be pretty well balanced, I am not into the bass heavy systems anymore.


Turn. it. UP! I was listening to a triple play of AC/DC on HD radio today. Decided to crank the stereo for the first time and was surprised how good it sounded. AC/DC can quickly become muddled on most stereos especially at higher volumes. On the B&O it was clear as a bell with nice staging and tight, appropriate bass. I was surprised because at lower volumes the system sounded clear but not particularly inspiring. I am duly impressed now. Also since I'm new here, the obligatory pic of my ordered and recently delivered 2015 S4:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc26b3127ccef79bd389915d00000030O00Abt2jJi4cOW YPbz4c/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00309881247720141208044219434.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Congrats on the new ride. Looks great!


B&O is a must have.

Agreed sir.

[RickFLS4]

My wife had the standard (non-B&O) sound system in her last Q5 and personally I find B&O night and day vs. that sound system. It isn't a $5K+ ultimate sound system but a reasonably priced upgrade over standard and well worth it for anyone that cares about sound quality. It's strength its clarity, weakness is bass. Best I had was Mark Levinson in a Lexus LS, which I think sounded better than the $6K B&O in higher level Audi models. I've listened to the higher end B&O and while bass is better and it is louder than our system, it seems more susceptible to distortion.

[Vogz]

No it isn't. Didn't have it on my 2010, had it on my 2014 and current 2011. IMHO,not a HUGE difference. As an aside, I was watching Car Matchmaker on Esquire channel. Spike Feresten provides 3 potential cars for his clients to drive (based on Their criteria)and they pick one to buy. On one episode, stereo system was a major factor. One of the cars for the comparison was a Q5 with a B&O. Other 2 cars were a Jeep and a Range Rover I believe. BUT they judged the B&O to be the worst sounding stereo mostly because of the very weak bass.

If Spike from Esquire said it, it must be true!

The B&O is far and away the best overall sound audio system I've had in a vehicle. That includes custom, bass heavy systems that I used to upgrade my vehicles to. The difference between the base Audi system and the B&O is night and day. Especially for how relatively cheap the upgrade is.

People are too obsessed with over the top bass. I was too...when I was 19. The B&O has plenty of punch, but doesn't overdo bass. That seems to be the general consensus among "most" owners on here.

[DGVR6]

I had to throw in a 10 inch subwoofer. The bass wasn't doing it for me.
Now whenever I play movies it sounds like a theater. Love B&O..

I can be somewhat of an audiophile though so to each their own.

[HedonismBot]

Some people need to stop referring to car stereos as stereos and just start calling them bass generating machines. It seems to be the primary metric most folks use to determine the worth of a system. Namely, how much can I make the windows flex with my dub step mix.

[MVR 155]

I think the B&O sounds fantastic but the bass cannot "keep up" at loud volumes so I added a 12" sub to mine. I'm running an Alpine sub in a small enclosure, sealed box with a Kicker 500w mono amp. The highs/mids are very loud and clean, the aftermarket sub delivers the low response that was missing. I cannot believe how amazing the factory system is with the addition of the sub/amp. For the $800 option to get the B&O it's a no brainer.

[will13k7]

B&O seems optimized for rock/heavy-metal, that genre sounds the best with it, not so great with hip-hop or classical.

[raudiace4]

If Spike from Esquire said it, it must be true!

The B&O is far and away the best overall sound audio system I've had in a vehicle. That includes custom, bass heavy systems that I used to upgrade my vehicles to. The difference between the base Audi system and the B&O is night and day. Especially for how relatively cheap the upgrade is.

People are too obsessed with over the top bass. I was too...when I was 19. The B&O has plenty of punch, but doesn't overdo bass. That seems to be the general consensus among "most" owners on here.

Is that your car in at Komet getting stage 2 today?

[Subsonic]

No it isn't. Didn't have it on my 2010, had it on my 2014 and current 2011. IMHO,not a HUGE difference. As an aside, I was watching Car Matchmaker on Esquire channel. Spike Feresten provides 3 potential cars for his clients to drive (based on Their criteria)and they pick one to buy. On one episode, stereo system was a major factor. One of the cars for the comparison was a Q5 with a B&O. Other 2 cars were a Jeep and a Range Rover I believe. BUT they judged the B&O to be the worst sounding stereo mostly because of the very weak bass.

Not a huge difference? Get some hearing aids ;) It was painfully (almost literally, the standard radio is that bad) obvious that the standard stereo was highly deficient. Well worry the paltry $800 upgrade (at that price point anyway).

[Subsonic]

B&O seems optimized for rock/heavy-metal, that genre sounds the best with it, not so great with hip-hop or classical.

Hmm, sounds fine with electronic and hip-hop on mine. Low end extension is lacking below about 40hz but is a basic 10" sub, to be expected. Highs are crisp enough I keep my treble on 0 or +1.

Haven't tried classical...very hard to reproduce well though.

[RainJer]

If Spike from Esquire said it, it must be true!

The B&O is far and away the best overall sound audio system I've had in a vehicle. That includes custom, bass heavy systems that I used to upgrade my vehicles to. The difference between the base Audi system and the B&O is night and day. Especially for how relatively cheap the upgrade is.

People are too obsessed with over the top bass. I was too...when I was 19. The B&O has plenty of punch, but doesn't overdo bass. That seems to be the general consensus among "most" owners on here.

Exactly... except I was 17

[mrmomo313]

Great clarity at higher volumes but I'm with others, it just lacks a little in the bass department.. nothing a small sub can't solve!

[if6ws9]

B&O seems optimized for rock/heavy-metal, that genre sounds the best with it, not so great with hip-hop or classical.

I found that what you indicated is true about Rock but I don't think the B&O's optimal range is limited to only Rock and Metal. I think there's a world of difference between the stock and the B&O system for everything that I've played through it. I found that the music on the first four newly remastered Zep CD's was surprisingly revealing. Jazz also sounds great; Pat Metheny's solo acoustic and group stuff is detailed and very clear, trad stuff like Miles' Birth of the Cool and Kind of Blue as well as his heavier stuff like Bitches Brew were startling hear. I haven't listened to much classical yet except for guitar (Parkening, Bream, Fisk) and the presence for that was just great but I can't imagine that orchestral or chamber wouldn't sound just as goood. I haven't listened to Hip Hop but that's not music anyway, lol.

[skiracerblah]

OEM B&O Subwoofah. Magnet on my refrigerator hanging my kid's artwork is bigger than this


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9Jwqm0QVAcs/TpJwzNjtK6I/AAAAAABPv1Q/cQC6HgrCkMc/s800/stereo%2520002.JPG

[phanker]

Best upgrade on the S4 for me. It's much much better than the stock system, especially at higher volume as OP indicated. Save me alot of $$ and time as I've always redo the audio systems in every car I've had.
But.....it's very sensitive on the source with how good or bad it can sound. Its DSP does a crappy job and converting analog signal to digital for it's 5 channel processing and soundstaging simulations.


-It's excellent on digital souces like CD, MP3s, Apple lossless.
-It's pretty bad on analog sources like radio, apple line-in.
-Sirrus is absolutely horrid even though it's digital. Don't quite understand and never bothered to look into it.

It's pretty impressive in its ability to make its crappy speakers sound pretty darn good.

[Dr GP]

Not a huge difference? Get some hearing aids ;) It was painfully (almost literally, the standard radio is that bad) obvious that the standard stereo was highly deficient. Well worry the paltry $800 upgrade (at that price point anyway).

My wife would agree with you about the hearing aids!

[Vogz]

Is that your car in at Komet getting stage 2 today?

Negative. I put my pulley on in my garage back in April. Another sprint blue S4 in the area with GIAC stage 2 eh?

[raudiace4]

Negative. I put my pulley on in my garage back in April. Another sprint blue S4 in the area with GIAC stage 2 eh?

Haha yea, saw a sprint blue in the shop thought it was you. Then remembered you were already Stage 2 [emoji106][emoji106]

[AZT]

Sirrus is absolutely horrid even though it's digital. Don't quite understand and never bothered to look into it.

It sounds bad in every car I've heard it and it is due to the compression - the audio is essentially watered down to a low quality bit rate and degraded frequency range. I don't know how anyone can stand listening to it for music but I can handle a talkshow.

[doug97gxe]

B&O is perfect with a subwoofer upgrade

[will13k7]

a lil boom boom boom helps [:D]

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3829/11526677294_83e52a1fd7_o.jpg

still can fit two golf bags or a stroller!

[EHesh14]

a lil boom boom boom helps [:D]

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3829/11526677294_83e52a1fd7_o.jpg

still can fit two golf bags or a stroller!

Nice sub man. Do you use any type of mount for the box so it won't move around during spirited driving? I cringe every time I hear my box flip over when I take hard turns. I did use velcro, but it wasn't very helpful.

[jygesq]

True audiophiles listen for bass where it actually is in the music..I first observed the B&o O was just ok for the money, but when I get a great hd classical music station that plays outstanding music , you can hear how really good this $850 add on is. Good quality source material comes across clean and where there is real bass in the music, you hear it & can feel it . Bass signal that is really not part of the music, is bass for the sake of bass. My system is better than yours because it produces more bass sounds is a fallacy. When the music has bass in it, that is when I want to hear it, not when it is not in the music. I have a large audiophile sound system at home, when there is bass in the music, you hesr and feel it.the. Same is present in the B&O system to lesser degree. The B & O upgrade of $ 850 is well worth the money.

[will13k7]

Do you use any type of mount for the box so it won't move around during spirited driving? I cringe every time I hear my box flip over when I take hard turns. I did use velcro, but it wasn't very helpful.

Some industrial velcro strips from home depot, just the hook strips, the adhesive side is attached to the sub, and the hook side goes onto the floor mat. I don't get any left-to-right movement with hard corning, but if I launch it hard, the floor mat lifts up a little and the sub tilts towards the rear, then comes down after letting off the throttle with a little thump. I haven't gotten around to adding some adhesive strips between the floor mat and the car body, but I think that would cure it.

[doug97gxe]

True audiophiles listen for bass where it actually is in the music..I first observed the B&o O was just ok for the money, but when I get a great hd classical music station that plays outstanding music , you can hear how really good this $850 add on is. Good quality source material comes across clean and where there is real bass in the music, you hear it & can feel it . Bass signal that is really not part of the music, is bass for the sake of bass. My system is better than yours because it produces more bass sounds is a fallacy. When the music has bass in it, that is when I want to hear it, not when it is not in the music. I have a large audiophile sound system at home, when there is bass in the music, you hesr and feel it.the. Same is present in the B&O system to lesser degree. The B & O upgrade of $ 850 is well worth the money.

there is a huge difference with a good SQ sub and any off the shelf SPL Sub .. i agree with you the majority of consumers love an SPL sub where their trunks are rattling and you can't hear the treble or mids .. In my past cars i've had aftermarket systems with subs such as ID Max's.. Rainbow.. recently in my F150 Morel's ... i judge a system on how good the bass sounds when the volume is low.. not when it's blasting.. and with a good SQ sub you will hear the detailed bass notes.. you will hear the accuracy all at a low volume .. i never bought into the JL Audio marketing machine and 90% of car audio aftermarket owners swear JL Audio is the best possible. The B&O System is very good for the $850 i agree but the sub is the one downfall .. it provides bass but it doesn't provide quality or accuracy.

so no bass is not bass.. it isn't that cut and dry and a quality SQ sub makes the whole system absolutely perfect

[milesed]

Quality of music through my B&O seems totally dependent on the individual song's production. Some sound great, others, meh.

[Triska]

OP,

yes I agree. BO sounds better and better the louder you crank it. You can really appreciate the clarity and balance of the system at vol 20-22. I find it's great for any style: rock, classical, jazz, spoken word. It's a must-have at this price point. I actually pity-the-fools who have standard sound [:D]

[ISA5]

OEM B&O Subwoofah. Magnet on my refrigerator hanging my kid's artwork is bigger than this


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9Jwqm0QVAcs/TpJwzNjtK6I/AAAAAABPv1Q/cQC6HgrCkMc/s800/stereo%2520002.JPG

The size of a magnet is not a good indicator of speaker performance. A neodymium magnet, ounce for ounce, generates a much stronger field than common ferrite magnets.

[DGVR6]

there is a huge difference with a good SQ sub and any off the shelf SPL Sub .. i agree with you the majority of consumers love an SPL sub where their trunks are rattling and you can't hear the treble or mids .. In my past cars i've had aftermarket systems with subs such as ID Max's.. Rainbow.. recently in my F150 Morel's ... i judge a system on how good the bass sounds when the volume is low.. not when it's blasting.. and with a good SQ sub you will hear the detailed bass notes.. you will hear the accuracy all at a low volume .. i never bought into the JL Audio marketing machine and 90% of car audio aftermarket owners swear JL Audio is the best possible. The B&O System is very good for the $850 i agree but the sub is the one downfall .. it provides bass but it doesn't provide quality or accuracy.

so no bass is not bass.. it isn't that cut and dry and a quality SQ sub makes the whole system absolutely perfect

Most "off the shelf subs" are directed towards people who want the loudest bass possible. Most of the time they just want to be cool and have the loudest system on the block. You can make mostly any sub into a "SQ" sub by slmply tuning the box.

I went for a sealed enclosure to get a natural tight bass, not loud or boomy like a ported. No trunk rattle.
The downfall for B&Os subwoofer is that it isn't properly enclosed. Free air subs usually cancel frequencies out (ask APR about their RSC exhaust lol). Even if the trunk is sealed off properly for the front side of the sub, it's just to much air to move.

[PitchS4]

I enclosed my rear deck with dynomat and it improved very the sub response and clarity. Worth it for 70 bucks. Also helps a bit with road noise.

[doug97gxe]

Most "off the shelf subs" are directed towards people who want the loudest bass possible. Most of the time they just want to be cool and have the loudest system on the block. You can make mostly any sub into a "SQ" sub by slmply tuning the box.

I went for a sealed enclosure to get a natural tight bass, not loud or boomy like a ported. No trunk rattle.
The downfall for B&Os subwoofer is that it isn't properly enclosed. Free air subs usually cancel frequencies out (ask APR about their RSC exhaust lol). Even if the trunk is sealed off properly for the front side of the sub, it's just to much air to move.

well that and the tiny magnet .. next spring i'm going to throw an IDMax 10 where my BO sub is.. let the party begin

[CloseEncounters]

B&O is perfect with a subwoofer upgrade


Hit it right on the head!! A 500W Alpine Amp and 8" JL Audio Sub made ALL the difference for me.

[MVR 155]

Nice sub man. Do you use any type of mount for the box so it won't move around during spirited driving? I cringe every time I hear my box flip over when I take hard turns. I did use velcro, but it wasn't very helpful.

I tried the Velcro at first but had similar issues, normal driving was fine but a quick launch or hard turn had the box moving around. I purchased a latch from Home Depot that you would use to latch a small door or gate shut. It came with two eye hooks and the spring latch. I attached one eye hook to the box and the other to the passenger's side seat back. The box is now held very firmly in place and it I decide to fold my seat down/remove the box it's a simple task to unlatch it. I still have Velcro on the bottom and back of box for extra retention. As far as my exact setup I am using a 4ohm 12" Alpine SWE-12S4 subwoofer. It's rated at 250W RMS and 750W Peak. I have it installed into a sealed, prebuilt box by Atrend which is 0.88 cubic feet (air space rating for the sub in a sealed box is: 0.65-1.0 cubic feet so its right in the middle of the acceptable range). I am powering it with a Kicker DX500.1 amplifier. The amp is rated at 275W RMS @4ohms. I run the gain fairly conservative along with having a remote knob inside the car which I never turn up past 75%. This setup has fantastic tight bass and will also pick up all of the low stuff. Whether you are listening to rock/metal, dance, dubstep, rap..... it just sounds amazing. I have roughly $400 in these components, couple that with the original cost of the B&O for a grand total of ~$1200...... You would have to spend 3-4X that amount to put something together that would offer competitive sound quality. Here are some photos of my setup.

Sub/Box mounted in trunk
http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy265/mkennedy75/Mobile%20Uploads/D2260F5C-A878-476C-9438-6624CF6E5504_zpsxi0lvkoc.jpg (http://s798.photobucket.com/user/mkennedy75/media/Mobile%20Uploads/D2260F5C-A878-476C-9438-6624CF6E5504_zpsxi0lvkoc.jpg.html)

Quick release spring latch for sub enclosure retention
http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy265/mkennedy75/Mobile%20Uploads/4668AFEE-8D26-406F-9904-BE8970898138_zpsrzf5nph8.jpg (http://s798.photobucket.com/user/mkennedy75/media/Mobile%20Uploads/4668AFEE-8D26-406F-9904-BE8970898138_zpsrzf5nph8.jpg.html)

Amplifier installed into side compartment in trunk. This is right under the B&O amplifier and looks like it belongs there straight from the factoryhttp://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy265/mkennedy75/Mobile%20Uploads/5280C1E8-4543-45E4-B49F-982DF9E1FF9C_zpsr5nhowyj.jpg (http://s798.photobucket.com/user/mkennedy75/media/Mobile%20Uploads/5280C1E8-4543-45E4-B49F-982DF9E1FF9C_zpsr5nhowyj.jpg.html)

Removal of the factory B&O sub enclosure (this needs to be removed for adequate air movement from the trunk area)
http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy265/mkennedy75/Mobile%20Uploads/8794ADA1-54CA-40E3-819E-93D6BB7E9A2E_zpskduklvqv.jpg (http://s798.photobucket.com/user/mkennedy75/media/Mobile%20Uploads/8794ADA1-54CA-40E3-819E-93D6BB7E9A2E_zpskduklvqv.jpg.html)

Remote knob for controlling bass level on the amp. This is a needed item as the factory head unit boosts low frequency gain at lower volume levels and bleeds it at higher volumes.
http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy265/mkennedy75/Mobile%20Uploads/A8A8E7C6-6EFA-4F56-B6C4-091812806B7E_zpsgnhwbcqa.jpg (http://s798.photobucket.com/user/mkennedy75/media/Mobile%20Uploads/A8A8E7C6-6EFA-4F56-B6C4-091812806B7E_zpsgnhwbcqa.jpg.html)

[ballinb5]

Wow,sick setup guy. I would also want one that i can attach and then move if i'm carrying luggage etc

[skynetop]

I tried the Velcro at first but had similar issues, normal driving was fine but a quick launch or hard turn had the box moving around. I purchased a latch from Home Depot that you would use to latch a small door or gate shut. It came with two eye hooks and the spring latch. I attached one eye hook to the box and the other to the passenger's side seat back. The box is now held very firmly in place and it I decide to fold my seat down/remove the box it's a simple task to unlatch it. I still have Velcro on the bottom and back of box for extra retention. As far as my exact setup I am using a 4ohm 12" Alpine SWE-12S4 subwoofer. It's rated at 250W RMS and 750W Peak. I have it installed into a sealed, prebuilt box by Atrend which is 0.88 cubic feet (air space rating for the sub in a sealed box is: 0.65-1.0 cubic feet so its right in the middle of the acceptable range). I am powering it with a Kicker DX500.1 amplifier. The amp is rated at 275W RMS @4ohms. I run the gain fairly conservative along with having a remote knob inside the car which I never turn up past 75%. This setup has fantastic tight bass and will also pick up all of the low stuff. Whether you are listening to rock/metal, dance, dubstep, rap..... it just sounds amazing. I have roughly $400 in these components, couple that with the original cost of the B&O for a grand total of ~$1200...... You would have to spend 3-4X that amount to put something together that would offer competitive sound quality. Here are some photos of my setup.

Sub/Box mounted in trunk
http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy265/mkennedy75/Mobile%20Uploads/D2260F5C-A878-476C-9438-6624CF6E5504_zpsxi0lvkoc.jpg (http://s798.photobucket.com/user/mkennedy75/media/Mobile%20Uploads/D2260F5C-A878-476C-9438-6624CF6E5504_zpsxi0lvkoc.jpg.html)

Quick release spring latch for sub enclosure retention
http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy265/mkennedy75/Mobile%20Uploads/4668AFEE-8D26-406F-9904-BE8970898138_zpsrzf5nph8.jpg (http://s798.photobucket.com/user/mkennedy75/media/Mobile%20Uploads/4668AFEE-8D26-406F-9904-BE8970898138_zpsrzf5nph8.jpg.html)

Amplifier installed into side compartment in trunk. This is right under the B&O amplifier and looks like it belongs there straight from the factoryhttp://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy265/mkennedy75/Mobile%20Uploads/5280C1E8-4543-45E4-B49F-982DF9E1FF9C_zpsr5nhowyj.jpg (http://s798.photobucket.com/user/mkennedy75/media/Mobile%20Uploads/5280C1E8-4543-45E4-B49F-982DF9E1FF9C_zpsr5nhowyj.jpg.html)

Removal of the factory B&O sub enclosure (this needs to be removed for adequate air movement from the trunk area)
http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy265/mkennedy75/Mobile%20Uploads/8794ADA1-54CA-40E3-819E-93D6BB7E9A2E_zpskduklvqv.jpg (http://s798.photobucket.com/user/mkennedy75/media/Mobile%20Uploads/8794ADA1-54CA-40E3-819E-93D6BB7E9A2E_zpskduklvqv.jpg.html)

Remote knob for controlling bass level on the amp. This is a needed item as the factory head unit boosts low frequency gain at lower volume levels and bleeds it at higher volumes.
http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy265/mkennedy75/Mobile%20Uploads/A8A8E7C6-6EFA-4F56-B6C4-091812806B7E_zpsgnhwbcqa.jpg (http://s798.photobucket.com/user/mkennedy75/media/Mobile%20Uploads/A8A8E7C6-6EFA-4F56-B6C4-091812806B7E_zpsgnhwbcqa.jpg.html)

This is pretty awesome, how hard was it to wire everything up? I am very interested in this.

[MVR 155]

It's actually quite easy to do this kind of install. The battery is in the trunk so running the power wire is about as simple as it gets. There are many places you can ground to so that too was easy. I picked up the signal using a LOC from the factory sub woofer wires. Running the wire for the remote sub control was honestly the biggest hassle. After that just playing around with gain settings/tuning the amp took a little bit. Very straight forward install on these cars.

[SteveYem]

well that and the tiny magnet .. next spring i'm going to throw an IDMax 10 where my BO sub is.. let the party begin

I'm curious to hear your impressions of the overall effect when going this route. I would like better bass response but have no interest in having a subwoofer enclosure taking up trunk space. Will you need to run a separate amplifier for the sub or does the stock B&O amp provide enough power?

[doug97gxe]

This is pretty awesome, how hard was it to wire everything up? I am very interested in this.

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/audi-a5-s5-rs5-coupe-cabrio-125/2010-s5-amp-sub-install-write-up-2776325/

https://snapguide.com/guides/audi-a4a5-bang-olufsen-subwoofer-upgrade/

[doug97gxe]

I'm curious to hear your impressions of the overall effect when going this route. I would like better bass response but have no interest in having a subwoofer enclosure taking up trunk space. Will you need to run a separate amplifier for the sub or does the stock B&O amp provide enough power?

it won't be enough.. i think the stock BO sub is 80 watts RMS... the IDMax is 1000 watts RMS .. i have my amp from truck i will use

[SteveYem]

it won't be enough.. i think the stock BO sub is 80 watts RMS... the IDMax is 1000 watts RMS .. i have my amp from truck i will use

Gotcha. I also have a spare amp that I could use for this. Hopefully it's small enough to fit in the cubby with the stock amp.

[doug97gxe]

Gotcha. I also have a spare amp that I could use for this. Hopefully it's small enough to fit in the cubby with the stock amp.

i know mine wont.. i'm going to have my shop mount it under the rear deck

[DGVR6]

Just understand guys going the IB route (free air) you would have to be careful on how much wattage is going into that sub. It's going to be much more sensitive (unstable) then if it were in a box enclosure. You're about 15x more likly to blow that sub.

On the good side, it will hit much more deeper frequencies but not very loud.

[doug97gxe]

my installer has many years of audio knowledge.. we've done business for over 12 years.. i trust his judgement..

[DGVR6]

1000 watts are a lot, I just don't want subs to be blown. They're expensive, lol. I'll be doing the same thing once spring comes.

[doug97gxe]

oh the sub peaks at 1800 RMS ... i will prob only push 800 through it

[tgsweat]

oh the sub peaks at 1800 RMS ... i will prob only push 800 through it

Peak numbers mean nothing. You should be ok 800rms, but i would still be very careful with the gain. The rms for most subs are what they can handle thermally, not necessarily mechanically. So in a free air setup the sub will move a LOT more in the lower frequencies, in a sealed box it will handle that power with no problem. Yes i'm very familiar with the IDMAX, used to own a couple back when they were first introduced.

[doug97gxe]

Peak numbers mean nothing. You should be ok 800rms, but i would still be very careful with the gain. The rms for most subs are what they can handle thermally, not necessarily mechanically. So in a free air setup the sub will move a LOT more in the lower frequencies, in a sealed box it will handle that power with no problem. Yes i'm very familiar with the IDMAX, used to own a couple back when they were first introduced.

i am as well.. i had two 2 IDMax 12's in my maxima back in 99.. that was life.. i miss that setup.. with my 350z and F150 i had to go smaller due to box limitations .. i had Rainbow Hammers.. Resonant Engineering SE's and Morel Ulitmo SC's .. but finally i have the ability to go back to my first true love.. the IDMax .. more than likely with the B&O System the sub will never see 800 watts.. it will over power the B&O System.. now my Rainbow components i had in my truck and Z .. that would be able to handle the balance of the IDMax

[tgsweat]

i am as well.. i had two 2 IDMax 12's in my maxima back in 99.. that was life.. i miss that setup.. with my 350z and F150 i had to go smaller due to box limitations .. i had Rainbow Hammers.. Resonant Engineering SE's and Morel Ulitmo SC's .. but finally i have the ability to go back to my first true love.. the IDMax .. more than likely with the B&O System the sub will never see 800 watts.. it will over power the B&O System.. now my Rainbow components i had in my truck and Z .. that would be able to handle the balance of the IDMax

hahahaha i had the RE SE's and a 18xxx at some point. But i won't get off of that stuff :)

[jazza08]

Here is a great write up for those of you not looking for massive bass but an upgrade to not miss out on those lower frequencies that the B&O struggles with.

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/s4-b8-platform-discussion-134/b-o-subwoofer-upgrade-install-guide-2790664/

[cspcrx]

I have spoken to two shops about this and both came up with similar solutions. Remove the rear deck sub, mount a sub box under the rear deck with the woofer firing up through where the stock sub went. Depending on how much "Boom" you want go with an 8 or 10 in sub. Both were talking about using the JBL thin subs to keep the box as thin as possible. And running it off of a 500 watt amp. They both mentioned that since this places the sub in a similar location to stock it allows for the stock tuning to work. Meaning how the processer was set for the timing of the sub.

Makes sense and probably what I am going to do.

[skiracerblah]

I used a Cerwin-Vega Stealth 220.2 which fits perfectly in the cubbyhole, but its been discontinued. However, here are the dimentions, length/width is most important. I guess anything this size or smaller should work...

Dimensions: 6-3/5"L x 7"W x 1-7/8"H

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YTfrhubSjWs/TpJwwVLTA5I/AAAAAABPv2s/A1gQhc_e-dM/s912/IMG00212-20110305-1535.jpg

[Subsonic]

i am as well.. i had two 2 IDMax 12's in my maxima back in 99.. that was life.. i miss that setup.. with my 350z and F150 i had to go smaller due to box limitations .. i had Rainbow Hammers.. Resonant Engineering SE's and Morel Ulitmo SC's .. but finally i have the ability to go back to my first true love.. the IDMax .. more than likely with the B&O System the sub will never see 800 watts.. it will over power the B&O System.. now my Rainbow components i had in my truck and Z .. that would be able to handle the balance of the IDMax

Man that takes me back to my competition days (RF, Planet Audio, Elemental Designs, Digital Designs, Shockers). Buddy of mine eventually picked up an 18" RE XXX...I thought his 9515 was big lol. ID Max were amazing sounding AND hit hard. Watching the insane excursion on those never grew old. Dang, now I want to upgrade the entire system in my car lol. A wall of ported wall with 6 12's might be overkill and negate the performance aspect a bit though, didn't matter so much in my old Corolla (0-60 in...eventually) :P Although some Crystal or high end Memphis Audio components would be nice too...then again it's been about 10-15 years so I'm sure things have changed. No, stop, no temptations! :P

[Subsonic]

I have spoken to two shops about this and both came up with similar solutions. Remove the rear deck sub, mount a sub box under the rear deck with the woofer firing up through where the stock sub went. Depending on how much "Boom" you want go with an 8 or 10 in sub. Both were talking about using the JBL thin subs to keep the box as thin as possible. And running it off of a 500 watt amp. They both mentioned that since this places the sub in a similar location to stock it allows for the stock tuning to work. Meaning how the processer was set for the timing of the sub.

Makes sense and probably what I am going to do.

Phasing I assume? For a single sub in a small cabin it shouldn't make a big difference. The Thiele/Small parameters of the sub will affect the tuning/frequency response. How much I don't know. I haven't really looked at the sub setup in this car...is it basically an infinite baffle setup (I saw someone mention it earlier and the "enclosure" the stock sits in doesn't look air tight for a sealed installation)?


The size of a magnet is not a good indicator of speaker performance. A neodymium magnet, ounce for ounce, generates a much stronger field than common ferrite magnets.

I have to respectfully disagree, at least if you plan on pushing more than a small amount of power through it. Subwoofers have a lot of moving mass and require a strong EM field to effectively control it. Neodymium magnets are strong, ounce for ounce, but that doesn't mean a small one is a good application of it. The stock motor looks pathetic tbh, even cheap RF and Kicker subs have bigger motors, not that I'm a fan of either, but just for example. I could be biased, I'm used to subs with 40-50+ pound motors and very high RMS power ratings for competition :P I've just rarely heard a sub with a small magnet that impressed me beyond indoor conversation level output levels.

[cspcrx]

Yes phase and the stock sub is a free air.

[TRZ06]

My wife had the standard (non-B&O) sound system in her last Q5 and personally I find B&O night and day vs. that sound system. It isn't a $5K+ ultimate sound system but a reasonably priced upgrade over standard and well worth it for anyone that cares about sound quality. It's strength its clarity, weakness is bass. Best I had was Mark Levinson in a Lexus LS, which I think sounded better than the $6K B&O in higher level Audi models. I've listened to the higher end B&O and while bass is better and it is louder than our system, it seems more susceptible to distortion.

I will second that. Mark Levinson is the best I have had in a stock system. I had it in my old GX-470, amazing.

I have a B&W home system and while not quite that good, the clarity and fidelity of the ML was amazing.

B&O in the S4 is above the Bose systems, but not on par with the super high end stock systems.

[Pworld]

Turn. it. UP! I was listening to a triple play of AC/DC on HD radio today. Decided to crank the stereo for the first time and was surprised how good it sounded. AC/DC can quickly become muddled on most stereos especially at higher volumes. On the B&O it was clear as a bell with nice staging and tight, appropriate bass. I was surprised because at lower volumes the system sounded clear but not particularly inspiring. I am duly impressed now. Also since I'm new here, the obligatory pic of my ordered and recently delivered 2015 S4:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc26b3127ccef79bd389915d00000030O00Abt2jJi4cOW YPbz4c/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00309881247720141208044219434.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

think i saw your car parked on Lake in altadena saturday afternoon. Love it

[Hatchman]

If Spike from Esquire said it, it must be true!

The B&O is far and away the best overall sound audio system I've had in a vehicle. That includes custom, bass heavy systems that I used to upgrade my vehicles to. The difference between the base Audi system and the B&O is night and day. Especially for how relatively cheap the upgrade is.

People are too obsessed with over the top bass. I was too...when I was 19. The B&O has plenty of punch, but doesn't overdo bass. That seems to be the general consensus among "most" owners on here.

I used to sell car audio and have also installed dozens of systems, and I agree with all ^^^^^^

Base system doesn't sound bad, but the B&O sounds much better. If you don't like a good sounding stereo, then the B&O is not "must have"

Sometimes, I do wish it had just a touch more bass. Just a little.

"Spike from Esquire"... LOL

[rlfletch]

think i saw your car parked on Lake in altadena saturday afternoon. Love it

In front of Fox's Diner? Yeah, that was me. She'll get a much needed wash after I get my Supercharged badges to put on.

The more I listen to the B&O the better it gets from me. My boys have developed an obsession with Gorillaz(Meaning: Play them over and over and over...) and their bass heavy beats sound very good. Vibrating the glass in the car just enough without getting boomy. It sounds like the stereo is getting pretty good low end response from the the door speakers and not being too dependent on the rear deck sub.

[bpang1]

I had a Kicker Comp-D 10" DVC sub put into my rear deck a few weeks ago...currently running off the stock B&O amp (which is rated at 150w RMS).

My impressions are that it definitely fills a hole below 60-80 hertz in the types of music I listen to. However, I think I would be happy if it was maybe 30% louder to be more equivalent to the mighty mid-bass from the front doors. I could be just dandy leaving it alone but since there is ample room for a little sub amp in the cubby, I will likely do that when I get a chance. It is not anywhere near the top of my list of things to do to the car but it will likely happen in the next couple years.

[doug97gxe]

I'm curious to hear your impressions of the overall effect when going this route. I would like better bass response but have no interest in having a subwoofer enclosure taking up trunk space. Will you need to run a separate amplifier for the sub or does the stock B&O amp provide enough power?

i made an attempt last weekend.. i couldn't fit the sub in the stock location.. LOL magnet was too big

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[Loe]

FWIW, I removed the rubber grommet (used to secure wires, its about 1 3/4" - 2" diameter) behind the front door panel to allow the front speakers to be "ported" instead of sealed, the bass response from the front door speakers, especially in the lower regions, have now made the system more satisfying and I can't complain about the B&O for a factory set-up now.

I've also noted that depending on the source, more bass comes out of the door speakers. Bluetooth & i-pod interface produces the most bass, while for some reason bass seems to just be handled by the back subwoofer using the CD. Not sure why this is...Additionally, not sure if anyone knows, but when you use a bluetooth device, you can toggle between tracks using the volume knob by pushing it to the right (forward track) and left (backwards track).

[doug97gxe]

FWIW, I removed the rubber grommet (used to secure wires, its about 1 3/4" - 2" diameter) behind the front door panel to allow the front speakers to be "ported" instead of sealed, the bass response from the front door speakers, especially in the lower regions, have now made the system more satisfying and I can't complain about the B&O for a factory set-up now.

I've also noted that depending on the source, more bass comes out of the door speakers. Bluetooth & i-pod interface produces the most bass, while for some reason bass seems to just be handled by the back subwoofer using the CD. Not sure why this is...Additionally, not sure if anyone knows, but when you use a bluetooth device, you can toggle between tracks using the volume knob by pushing it to the right (forward track) and left (backwards track).

disconnected my sub sat... still havent notice

[MVR 155]

Run a stand alone small enclosure sealed box in the trunk powered by a stand alone amp...... remove the factory B&O sub in the deck. Very simple/easy and the sound is light years ahead of the stock B&O system.

[Colozeus]

OK, we all know sound is a very subjective "thing". But, i truly don't understand how many of you on here feel that B&O does not produce enough bass. I for one think it produces more than enough. I feel like the whole system is very well balanced, for a car. And as others have pointed out, it sounds great at high volumes with very little distortion. I guess a lot of you are real bass heads. (nothing wrong with that). I listen to all sorts of music and i think it is just fine. If my sub ever blows, i may swap it out for a pioneer like many of you have done, but never have i said to myself, "this system sucks and i should replace it". Just my .02. definitely sounds leaps and bounds better than the crappy stock system in my q3.

[doug97gxe]

OK, we all know sound is a very subjective "thing". But, i truly don't understand how many of you on here feel that B&O does not produce enough bass. I for one think it produces more than enough. I feel like the whole system is very well balanced, for a car. And as others have pointed out, it sounds great at high volumes with very little distortion. I guess a lot of you are real bass heads. (nothing wrong with that). I listen to all sorts of music and i think it is just fine. If my sub ever blows, i may swap it out for a pioneer like many of you have done, but never have i said to myself, "this system sucks and i should replace it". Just my .02. definitely sounds leaps and bounds better than the crappy stock system in my q3.

i thought the BO System had "OK" bass... disconnected my sub and i'm still getting the same Bass.. what you would be surprised to know is most of that bass you like and hear is coming from the front speakers .. like i said in an earlier post.. i disconnected the sub and still haven't noticed the Sub is gone

[Colozeus]

i thought the BO System had "OK" bass... disconnected my sub and i'm still getting the same Bass.. what you would be surprised to know is most of that bass you like and hear is coming from the front speakers .. like i said in an earlier post.. i disconnected the sub and still haven't noticed the Sub is gone

Maybe i'll try this next time i'm bored.

[spitefulcheerio]

I've also noted that depending on the source, more bass comes out of the door speakers. Bluetooth & i-pod interface produces the most bass, while for some reason bass seems to just be handled by the back subwoofer using the CD. Not sure why this is...Additionally, not sure if anyone knows, but when you use a bluetooth device, you can toggle between tracks using the volume knob by pushing it to the right (forward track) and left (backwards track).

I was confused by this the first week I bought the car...the audio settings change for every source and need to be set where you want for each one

[douglasjboehme]

Don't forget funk. I've had nothing but funk blasting from my B&O speakers since I got my 2016 S4 6MT. 1100 miles in and it's like George Clinton is in the passenger seat. :)

[pdqgp]

I agree the stock offered B&O is a much improved system over the base stereo. IMO it's like an A4 vs S4 only in the audio world. I had a bose in my previous car and it was certainly less than the B&O. Added a square 10" Kicker in an enclosure like pictured in this thread, but I'm not going to do that in my S4. I don't see a huge need and it was a PIA lucking that box around and having to move it out if I wanted to haul something.

[tsjordan]

Run a stand alone small enclosure sealed box in the trunk powered by a stand alone amp...... remove the factory B&O sub in the deck. Very simple/easy and the sound is light years ahead of the stock B&O system.

+1 ... it is fairly cheap and easy, granted it costs trunk space. I listen to run-of-the-mill pop music, but a real sub makes all the difference in the world (to me).

[Triska]

Yes it sounds better the louder you play. It is a very nice system, one of the best stock stereos, esp for the price. If you can't tell the significant improvement btw BO and regular audi stereo then you got something wrong with ur ears.


Turn. it. UP! I was listening to a triple play of AC/DC on HD radio today. Decided to crank the stereo for the first time and was surprised how good it sounded. AC/DC can quickly become muddled on most stereos especially at higher volumes. On the B&O it was clear as a bell with nice staging and tight, appropriate bass. I was surprised because at lower volumes the system sounded clear but not particularly inspiring. I am duly impressed now. Also since I'm new here, the obligatory pic of my ordered and recently delivered 2015 S4:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc26b3127ccef79bd389915d00000030O00Abt2jJi4cOW YPbz4c/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00309881247720141208044219434.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

[jygesq]

i find stock B& O has more than enough bass. It is the quality, fidelity of the sound, which I find is very good for a car system. Booming bass is not quality sound, but each to his own.

[BillyG]

I agree with you guys who are happy with the B&O system. My B8/B8.5 S4s are the only cars I've ever owned that I didn't modify the stereo/speakers/sub in some manner. Or it could be that I'm getting too old to care ;)

[doug97gxe]

i find stock B& O has more than enough bass. It is the quality, fidelity of the sound, which I find is very good for a car system. Booming bass is not quality sound, but each to his own.

Maybe you can't hear frequencies lower than 80 hz .. But to make the statement that quality sound isn't under 80 hz is just plain ignorant .. Good bass doesn't have to booming and trunk rattling.. Good bass is low tight and still heard at low volume.. The BO sub can't produce that


Sent from my iPhone8s using Tapatalk

[doug97gxe]

In any light I'm one stop closer to success

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Sent from my iPhone8s using Tapatalk

[jygesq]

I never stated anything about 80 hz .I have a home audio system of infinity RS II speakers,acurus 250 power amp,Yamaha cx-2 preap, Yamaha Px-3 TT with grace f 9 e ,MRantz SA 11 s sacd. I know good Sound. I simply said the. B&O sounds pretty good for a car system .

[Brother Owl]

I never stated anything about 80 hz .I have a home audio system of infinity RS II speakers,acurus 250 power amp,Yamaha cx-2 preap, Yamaha Px-3 TT with grace f 9 e ,MRantz SA 11 s sacd. I know good Sound. I simply said the. B&O sounds pretty good for a car system .

Love the old Infinity's - I bet those RS II's sound fantastic. Popped my audiophile cherry way back with a gifted set of Quantum 3's

[doug97gxe]

I never stated anything about 80 hz .I have a home audio system of infinity RS II speakers,acurus 250 power amp,Yamaha cx-2 preap, Yamaha Px-3 TT with grace f 9 e ,MRantz SA 11 s sacd. I know good Sound. I simply said the. B&O sounds pretty good for a car system .

no one said the BO System wasn't good for a stock system.. the general consensus is the BO System falls short at the subwoofer..

I had a Bose system in my 350z .. the highs were no present and the lows were not present .. overall the system was garbage..

the BO System on the 4/5 has great highs.. great mids.. and great mid bass .. the system falls short at the subwoofer.. i've heard Ford Systems with better low tight bass .. the BO Subwoofer would be better mated with the regular Audi Audio System

As i said i thought the bass was OK .. i disconnected my BO Sub so i could tap into the connectors and the same excellent mid bass i was getting before i disconnected it is still present.. all that bass is coming from the door.. not the sub

[Victor Newman]

B&O seems optimized for rock/heavy-metal, that genre sounds the best with it, not so great with hip-hop or classical.

I listen to a lot of metal, and the B&O makes an INCREDIBLE difference. The stuff I listen to has a pretty complex structure and a lot of background touches that you cannot hear with other sound systems. These songs really come alive with the B&O system. Its balance is perfect. Anybody that thinks there isn't a big difference needs to listen to the latest August Burns Red album, for example, on the B&O and another sound system. I've had aftermarket systems in multiple vehicles, and the B&O is by far the clearest, tightest, and best balanced I've had.

[moophone]

I really like the B&O system. It just needs a sub upgrade.

[jygesq]

Love the old Infinity's - I bet those RS II's sound fantastic. Popped my audiophile cherry way back with a gifted set of Quantum 3's Yes the RS II s are amazing. Great sound stage, great bass. 2 ten inch woofers, 3 mid ranges and two emit tweeters. All in an oak veneer cabinet with a solid oak diffusion wing. With solid power the Acurus provides the bass is solid, the highs are sweet , pretty much perfect!

[Senseless]

B&O sounds fantastic with voice programming too. Highly intelligible, crisp and easy to listen to. Best car system I've ever had.

[Hatchman]

I agree that the B&O is the best car audio I've ever had... Just want a little more bass.

[Hatchman]

Swapped out the stock B&O with a Pioneer. Bass is much improved.

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http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/07/92d0be9172d61c382f99637ffc0b4ea8.jpg

Took about 6 hours. Used a 3/4" MFD ring to raise the speaker out of the trunk a little. Took a while to shave down the front of the ring a quarter of an inch and still had to trim the package tray cover. Even had to trim one of the clips of the speaker grill or it would have been poking right into the woofer surround. Not a job for the faint of heart.

Sounds great. A lot more bass from the sub than before, and still looking forward to breaking in. And, No rattles with the dynamat.

[Reckon]

Anyone get a slight rattling on the passenger side? I'm waiting to hit the 15k service mark before taking the car in and I will mention it then, but it seems like there is a slight rattle at certain volume for certain types of music on the front passenger door, closer to the bottom speaker. Just wondering if anyone else experienced that with the B&O. I don't put it too loud (volume usually doesn't go up above 15, almost never past 20) and the controls for Bass and Treble are near center.

[doug97gxe]

Finally got my ID Max in.. The directions for the turn on lead was for a B8.. There is no red row for the B8.5 all the rows in the truck were live .. Ended up tapping a relay

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/08/75d16cd555d964aa760d7703f8fd9400.jpg

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I first fired her up I had my amp on 5 from my prior car wow the bass blew me away .. Currently running it at 3 and I turned the bass down in the mmi to 1/4

However im still tuning.. Also have some 175 amp quick disconnects to install since I have kids and will need the trunk free at times

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Sent from my iPhone8s using Tapatalk

[UnaBomber]

No it isn't. Didn't have it on my 2010, had it on my 2014 and current 2011. IMHO,not a HUGE difference. As an aside, I was watching Car Matchmaker on Esquire channel. Spike Feresten provides 3 potential cars for his clients to drive (based on Their criteria)and they pick one to buy. On one episode, stereo system was a major factor. One of the cars for the comparison was a Q5 with a B&O. Other 2 cars were a Jeep and a Range Rover I believe. BUT they judged the B&O to be the worst sounding stereo mostly because of the very weak bass.

i have the Meridian Signature setup in my 2015 RR Sport and its shit compared to the not so great B&O setup in my s4

[Rusty Axle]

The B&O system is nice for a factory system. However it improves a great deal when paired up with good speakers. And a ton of Dynamat ;-)

I replaced the stock speakers with Audison units, and the difference in clarity and response is impressive. After experimenting with the sub setup, a single sealed Alpine SWR-12D2 and a JL Audio XD600 gave me what I was looking for. Everything is clean and accurate. Really a pleasure to listen to.