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View Full Version : Am I missing it? - Engine Mount DIY



Rferone
12-05-2014, 05:02 AM
So I have done a few searches for things like Engine Mount, Motor Mount, Mounts etc. I even checked the WIKI and saw nothing about replacing them just "why should you upgrade them." Have had no luck finding a DIY on them, want to see how much of a PIA these are to do... Anyone happen to have one?

1999 Audi B5 A4 2.8 Quattro

I have done them in the past on my MKV GTI, Genesis Coupe, and even my STI, but this motor bay LOOKS TIGHT!

Thank you if anyone knows where one is located

Rferone
12-05-2014, 05:21 AM
While I am at it... I found this awesome DIY on replacing your heater core... BUT I see it calls out to remove your steering wheel, is this really required to do?

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/int54.shtml

Really don't feel like taking the wheel off if I don't have to.

Bordom
12-05-2014, 05:21 AM
If I remember correctly, the drivers side is the easiest, while the passenger side will make you want to junk the car.

There's a bottom and top nut to each side (bottoms are easiest). Then once you get those out you jack up the engine via oil pan with a piece of wood, remove old mounts, install new ones, drop engine, reattach nuts.

Don't tighten because you'll have to let the engine run around 10 mins or go for a short trip around the block before torqing

Rferone
12-05-2014, 07:33 AM
If I remember correctly, the drivers side is the easiest, while the passenger side will make you want to junk the car.

There's a bottom and top nut to each side (bottoms are easiest). Then once you get those out you jack up the engine via oil pan with a piece of wood, remove old mounts, install new ones, drop engine, reattach nuts.

Don't tighten because you'll have to let the engine run around 10 mins or go for a short trip around the block before torqing

Awesome yeah that's what I was seeing with it having a ton of junk on the passenger side while the driver side appears to be a bit more open....

Was hoping someone had insight into how much was in the way but this weekend I will jack the car up and take a look and see how bad when I am doing my heater core.

Rferone
12-05-2014, 07:34 AM
Actually found something on Google!

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/485190-Any-interest-in-a-2-8-Motor-Mount-DIY

bhusted
12-05-2014, 08:01 AM
I did mine a couple of years ago when I still had a 2.8. I didn't really think it was that bad. The best thing you can do for yourself is to buy a ratcheting 13mm stubby wrench. The top nuts are of course more difficult to access and the wrench will make things more pleasant.

The process is fairly straight forward. Take the weight of the engine off of the mounts with a jack. The aluminum oil pan is paper thin, so I wasn't comfortable jacking on it. Instead I used a block of wood to jack on something more solid. You don't have to go far. Just enough to take the weight of the engine. You'll need to remove the sway bar from the body. Remove one of the aluminum subframe brackets (3 x 18mm bolts + 13mm nut for mount). Don't do both at the same time because the subframe can shift and affect your alignment. Then undo the bolt at the top with your stubby ratcheting wrench. To brake it loose, I used the wrench as a crows foot and put a 1/2" extension into the open end and used a ratchet.

Poopie
12-05-2014, 04:23 PM
Hahah the heater core will make you want to murder yourself. It's about a 10-12 hour job for a first timer.

Poopie
12-05-2014, 04:23 PM
If you are worried about removing the steering wheel you have no idea what you got yourself into

Rferone
12-05-2014, 06:35 PM
If you are worried about removing the steering wheel you have no idea what you got yourself into

Ehhh not really to worried about it to be honest... I have been working on cars for 10 years now and am pretty confident I can get this thing torn down pretty quick.... Was a MECP Certified car Audio tech for 4 years and got out of the industry but have never stopped working on cars, love toying with them.

Doesn't look to bad, I was concerned about tool to remove steering wheel but everyone sys a torx bit works fine on removing it. Didn't feel like ordering the tool and having to wait for it to come in, I need heattttttt


Rob Ferone
2013 WSP STi Hatch - build car
1999 Silver Audi A4 - DD

bhusted
12-05-2014, 06:55 PM
Doesn't look to bad, I was concerned about tool to remove steering wheel but everyone sys a torx bit works fine on removing it.

I wouldn't use a torx to remove the triple square bolt for the steering wheel.

seanf86
12-06-2014, 07:08 AM
since I will be doing this soon on a 2.8 heres my plan. I'm going to put the car into service position and jack up the engine on the snub mount on the block, same as 1.8 on pass side either remove airbox or it looks as if you can go in thru the wheel well on both sides to get the top nut, I really don't want to screw around removing the swaybar brackets and I hope I can get the engine high enough like on my 1.8 to pop both mounts out. It took me an hour to do both mounts on my 1.8.

Rferone
12-06-2014, 08:40 AM
since I will be doing this soon on a 2.8 heres my plan. I'm going to put the car into service position and jack up the engine on the snub mount on the block, same as 1.8 on pass side either remove airbox or it looks as if you can go in thru the wheel well on both sides to get the top nut, I really don't want to screw around removing the swaybar brackets and I hope I can get the engine high enough like on my 1.8 to pop both mounts out. It took me an hour to do both mounts on my 1.8.

Nice!

Not a bad idea so maybe I will do the motor mounts when I do my control arm kit and just take the wheels off remove all the control arms and shit, pop out the fender liners and get it done!


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iamshayan
12-06-2014, 01:15 PM
I did mine a couple of years ago when I still had a 2.8. I didn't really think it was that bad. The best thing you can do for yourself is to buy a ratcheting 13mm stubby wrench. The top nuts are of course more difficult to access and the wrench will make things more pleasant.

The process is fairly straight forward. Take the weight of the engine off of the mounts with a jack. The aluminum oil pan is paper thin, so I wasn't comfortable jacking on it. Instead I used a block of wood to jack on something more solid. You don't have to go far. Just enough to take the weight of the engine. You'll need to remove the sway bar from the body. Remove one of the aluminum subframe brackets (3 x 18mm bolts + 13mm nut for mount). Don't do both at the same time because the subframe can shift and affect your alignment. Then undo the bolt at the top with your stubby ratcheting wrench. To brake it loose, I used the wrench as a crows foot and put a 1/2" extension into the open end and used a ratchet.

this is good info.

Rferone
12-08-2014, 03:17 AM
Agreed!

Successfully completed my heater core replacement yesterday and painted my front bumper. Now ordering my suspension and mounts to hopefully do next Saturday....after that I am done with maintenance on this car.


Rob Ferone
2013 WSP STi Hatch - build car
1999 Silver Audi A4 - DD

xthealienatorx
12-08-2014, 06:29 AM
For me, both mounts seemed a challenge at first. On the US passenger side, take out all the intake stuff, drop the sway bar, put a bottle jack under the subrame as well as a jack under the engine, drop the aluminum mount brackets. (this will likely throw your car out of alignment, definitely if you loosen the rear subrame bolts) then you have easy access to the passenger side bolts, we had to heat and bend the end of a box wrench to about 50 in order to get to the top bolt. For the drivers side, with the brackets off the bottom still, I took a Allen socket (don't remember exact size) with about a 2 foot extension with a U-joint and took the driver side mount off by taking the bracket of the engine, then replaced the mount out of the car. Made it really easy. Probably better ways to do it but this worked.

A1 A2 German
12-08-2014, 11:27 AM
I made this alot easier, I cut both the top and bottom motor mount studs in half, now they just pop right in.

Bordom
12-09-2014, 10:47 AM
I made this alot easier, I cut both the top and bottom motor mount studs in half, now they just pop right in.

Innovation right there

Rferone
01-05-2015, 05:42 PM
Btw easiest way I found was taking the actual sway bar down from the car and unbolting the main bottom mount point to the car this gave me a little more room and had it banged out in about 1hr


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034Motorsport
01-07-2015, 06:13 PM
Btw easiest way I found was taking the actual sway bar down from the car and unbolting the main bottom mount point to the car this gave me a little more room and had it banged out in about 1hr
That's how we have it detailed for the B5 Audi A4 Engine Mount Replacement Guide (http://store.034motorsport.com/images/B5_Motor_Mount_DIY.pdf) for our Density Line Engine Mounts. [up]

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