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Johns
12-03-2014, 10:38 PM
Hello to the Audi community! I just recently purchased my first car about a month ago after months of research. I found my car locally owned by a very conservative couple who were selling the car as they just purchased a Prius to replace it. The car is a black/black 2001 A4 1.8t Quattro 5-Speed with 175k miles.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_20140926_132138160_HDR.jpg
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_20140926_132218997_HDR.jpg
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/2/1412821049372.jpg

(the dash cup holder is missing as I was repairing it, I can post pictures of how I did so if anyone's interested)

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_20140926_132443559_HDR.jpg

Since the owners had no documentation on the timing belt/water pump, replacing that was my first order of business. I had never worked on cars before but after all of the research and tutorials I had read, I felt confident enough to take on the task (also being a broke college student I couldn't justify spending the cash to have someone else do it). During the replacement I threw in a new air filter, cabin filter, changed the oil and oil filter, new spark plugs, and of course did a complete coolant flush.

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_20141113_200613263_HDR.jpg
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/IMG_20141117_122752036_HDR.jpg

I was extremely relieved when the car started right up with no check engine light. Feels like a huge weight has been lifted off my shoulders as I no longer have to fear it breaking anytime soon. However, there's still so much to do, the list seems endless. Here's some pictures of how she currently sits (I did the clear corner mod until I have the money for newer projectors)

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_20141202_140405591_HDR.jpg
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_20141202_140450811_HDR.jpg

She's in dire need of new paint, but that's not near the top of the list. Next is to replace the passenger rear bearing which should take care of the mechanical flaws (for now). I also plan to shave the lower door moldings as they're completely rusted out, which will lead to the cheaper option of covering the holes with adhesive door molding.

Since I'm a college kid on a budget, I plan to put her on Solo-Werks S1 Coils. Still have no clue what type of wheels I plan to run, I think I want a staggered set (18x8.5, 18x9.5) but we'll see. For the lights, I plan on getting some black Depo housings and retro-fitting them with Morimoto Mini H1 projectors. But until then I'm just taking care of all the odds and ends (infamous drivers seat tear, dead lcd screen, lower grilles, black front grille, carbon fiber mirror housings, front window tint, replace all speakers with infinity kappa's). The most frustrating part of all is finding parts around the driver's door. Apparently whoever installed the stereo ran a mic up near the sun visor and completely tore up the interior A pillar, but I can't seem to find a replacement anywhere. I'm also looking for the upper and lower interior B pillar, just need to pull the trigger on one on ebay.

Hopefully I can register the car by the end of the week but I'll have to see where my funds are at (juggling college and junior hockey it seems like my paychecks vanish instantly). Until then I'm driving the car my parents let me have (2001 VW Passat Wagon Vr6 4motion with 195k miles and climbing as I drive 150+ miles a day to and from work/school/hockey). Let me know what you guys think!

Bordom
12-04-2014, 12:53 AM
http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_20140926_132138160_HDR.jpg


Nice pick! Don't know what's going on with your monster truck in the rear there [:p], but Solo Coils sound like a good replacement!

viceprp
12-04-2014, 01:16 AM
You play Junior A or B hockey?

When you do CO's, don't go too low since you don't have documentation of any control arms being replaced. 25" GTF wold look good. Don't fall into the sub 24.5" hype...

R490
12-04-2014, 04:45 AM
Control arms are probably a good idea also, as viceprp said.

Otherwise, Looks like a pretty good car!

Johns
12-04-2014, 05:13 AM
Nice pick! Don't know what's going on with your monster truck in the rear there [:p], but Solo Coils sound like a good replacement!

Thanks! I haven't measured the GTF yet, but I'm pretty sure it's just an illusion considering the 15" wheels and stock suspension. I can't wait to replace the old struts/coils!


You play Junior A or B hockey?

When you do CO's, don't go too low since you don't have documentation of any control arms being replaced. 25" GTF wold look good. Don't fall into the sub 24.5" hype...

I'll dig into the little documentation I do have to see about the control arms. 25" Sounds like the perfect height as she'll be my daily and the roads in North-Eastern CT aren't very kind to 'stanced' cars. I play junior B, it's my first year in the juniors scene and I'm loving every second of it (I'm a goalie).


Control arms are probably a good idea also, as viceprp said.

Otherwise, Looks like a pretty good car!

I'll start doing my research on control arms. Is there any symptoms of them needing replacement? Any recommendations for brands? Thanks!

redline380
12-04-2014, 05:25 AM
Kudos for tackling the tbelt without having ever worked on a car before. It took me quite a while to work up to that kind of in depth work.

Nice pick up regardless. You'll be running a big turbo in no time, I'm sure

Doke
12-04-2014, 05:50 AM
Just be careful with staggered wheels, you'd have to run staggered tire sizes as well to get the same final diameter. Quattro does not like different final diameters

redline380
12-04-2014, 06:04 AM
Just be careful with staggered wheels, you'd have to run staggered tire sizes as well to get the same final diameter. Quattro does not like different final diameters

Well, you have 3% to work with, but I agree, staggered setups are best left for those vehicles that come equipped with them from the factory, and there aren't many Quattro vehicles that do (only one I can think of is R8). I'd just get a nice set of 17's or 18's if you want a little bigger, and be done.

Johns
12-04-2014, 06:17 AM
Well, you have 3% to work with, but I agree, staggered setups are best left for those vehicles that come equipped with them from the factory, and there aren't many Quattro vehicles that do (only one I can think of is R8). I'd just get a nice set of 17's or 18's if you want a little bigger, and be done.

I just really like the wide look of 9.5's in the rear. But I'll more than likely end up running 18x8.5 all the way around. I've got to roll the fenders and look a bit more into tire size as I don't want to be rubbing once I finally lower her, but that'll probably just take some trial and error. In due time.

Also, could someone give me a brief explanation of the offset terminology? I've searched but I can't find anything that describes like 'et35, et45' if that makes any sense.. Thanks!

redline380
12-04-2014, 06:23 AM
Also, could someone give me a brief explanation of the offset terminology? I've searched but I can't find anything that describes like 'et35, et45' if that makes any sense.. Thanks!

It basically states where the center of the wheel is placed in relation to the barrel, but kind of reverse.

Let's take et35 and et45. The et35 will sit 10mm closer to the fender than the e45 will because the center of the wheel is further in on the et35 than the et45.

And you guessed it. Once you go past a certain point, you will get into negative offsets.

Edit- If my lack of wheel knowledge left you scratching your head, play with this until you figure it out for yourself. I'm bad at describing things. http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator

rodgertherabit
12-04-2014, 07:05 AM
im on 17x9s all around and fit great! im over 8.5in wheels lol

Johns
12-04-2014, 07:12 AM
It basically states where the center of the wheel is placed in relation to the barrel, but kind of reverse.

Let's take et35 and et45. The et35 will sit 10mm closer to the fender than the e45 will because the center of the wheel is further in on the et35 than the et45.

And you guessed it. Once you go past a certain point, you will get into negative offsets.

Edit- If my lack of wheel knowledge left you scratching your head, play with this until you figure it out for yourself. I'm bad at describing things. http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator

That definitely cleared it up for me, much appreciated.


im on 17x9s all around and fit great! im over 8.5in wheels lol

Rolled fenders I'm assuming? What's your GTF?

Johns
12-17-2014, 10:32 AM
Haven't had much down time lately, but I did begin to shave my lower door moldings. Driver's side came off without much issue aside from the rusted mounting screw. However, the passengers side is an absolute mess. I guess one of the previous owners decided it was a good idea to glue it on and man was it a PITA to get off. Not to mention it took nearly all of the paint with it, so I'm going to have to hit it with some primer before I can slap on the door trim I picked up from pep boys.

Also, has anyone on here tried this out?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDI-A3-A4-A6-A8-DIS-COMPUTER-DISPLAY-LCD-PIXEL-REPAIR-/250609544325?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item3a597e2c85&vxp=mtr

LCD fix with only a screwdriver.. Seems way too good to be true

BaseDrifter
12-17-2014, 10:57 AM
Sounds like complete BS to me.

Johns
12-30-2014, 11:56 AM
Finally got around to getting the door trim on. Here's a picture of the damage the OEM door moulding did

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20141208_153304783_HDR_zps7dd1fadf.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20141208_153304783_HDR_zps7dd1fadf.jpg.html)

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20141208_153212801_HDR_zps0bbe5d98.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20141208_153212801_HDR_zps0bbe5d98.jpg.html)

And the culprits themselves

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20141208_153137994_HDR_zps1e7b262a.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20141208_153137994_HDR_zps1e7b262a.jpg.html)

I prepped/sanded/primed the areas before applying the trim and I think it came out looking pretty nice in the end. Almost OEM. sorry for the phone pics, ignore the dirt (I live on a dirt road).

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20141230_141041236_HDR_zps7f0eabc6.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20141230_141041236_HDR_zps7f0eabc6.jpg.html)

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20141230_141059972_HDR_zps9862cfa2.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20141230_141059972_HDR_zps9862cfa2.jpg.html)

And I figured I might as well dip my grill surround in the mean time

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20141230_141120713_HDR_zpsec99010f.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20141230_141120713_HDR_zpsec99010f.jpg.html)

I also fixed my rattling glove box by putting a piece of foam on the mount for the dampening cylinder.

I've got to get this rear wheel bearing replaced and the new bearing has just been sitting in the backseat for a couple weeks now. I do have access to a press but I really don't want to take the entire knuckle off and have to go for a re-alignment after. I've done some research and read up on an article that used the Harbor Freight kit to do the entire process on the car (with exception of removing the hub). I've read many mixed reviews on the kit, any opinions?

Bruch
12-31-2014, 09:05 AM
I've changed a lot of B5 rear wheel bearings, and I can't imagine that "on the car" tool could have ever gotten the bearings out on any of mine. Schwaben makes a tool too that may be better quality that the HF. I live in the rust belt, so that may be the cause of my experiences, but you live in CT where they use lots of salt too, I imagine.

The biggest problems I've run into when removing the knuckle were the lower control arm bolt and the ABS sensor. I would recommend having a new bolt with eccentric washers on hand for the re-assemble. 99% of the time, I can't get the ABS sensor out of the knuckle. I've found that its safer to unplug it under the rear seat and leave the sensor in the knuckle and bring the entire ABS wire harness over to the press.

Johns
01-03-2015, 01:36 PM
I ended up getting the HF kit for next to nothing so I figured it's worth a shot, we'll see how it goes.

But in the meantime I've been looking for a set of 18" wheels on craigslist and came across a set of rs4 wheels with tires (alright tread). I have no clue if they're genuine or reps but I'm assuming they're reps because he has no idea either. The 5th wheel is a gunmetal finish unlike the others. However, he wants my 15" stockers that have new tires along with $300 on top of them for trade. Would this be worth it?
Here are the wheels:
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/20150103_155927_zpse5288ee6.jpeg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/20150103_155927_zpse5288ee6.jpeg.html)
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/20150103_155946_zpsfa56e318.jpeg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/20150103_155946_zpsfa56e318.jpeg.html)
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/20150103_160001_zpsa728fa5a.jpeg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/20150103_160001_zpsa728fa5a.jpeg.html)

This one has some bad curb rash
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/20150103_160026_zps7bbff76c.jpeg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/20150103_160026_zps7bbff76c.jpeg.html)

Bordom
01-03-2015, 02:29 PM
Those tires look to be about 60-70% tread yeah? I would do the trade but not for $300 extra. Those RS4 wheels have too much curb rash for my liking. Talk him down to $100 or less and it should be a good deal.

Johns
01-03-2015, 02:34 PM
Those RS4 wheels have too much curb rash for my liking. Talk him down to $100 or less and it should be a good deal.

It's not like my wheels are in perfect condition either. As you can see in some of my pictures, they're pretty beat up. Maybe $200?

Articus
01-03-2015, 03:04 PM
I ended up getting the HF kit for next to nothing so I figured it's worth a shot, we'll see how it goes.

But in the meantime I've been looking for a set of 18" wheels on craigslist and came across a set of rs4 wheels with tires (alright tread). I have no clue if they're genuine or reps but I'm assuming they're reps because he has no idea either. The 5th wheel is a gunmetal finish unlike the others. However, he wants my 15" stockers that have new tires along with $300 on top of them for trade. Would this be worth it?
Here are the wheels:


If he paid for OEM RS4 wheels...then he would remember... [;)] (unless they came with the car when he bought it) Pull the hubcap out. Part number/ Audi logo should be in there if it is OEM. I suspect they are reps as well.

Yeesh that curb rash is ugly...With rash like that, I would wonder if any/all of the wheels are bent. Pass!!

R490
01-03-2015, 03:20 PM
I ended up getting the HF kit for next to nothing so I figured it's worth a shot, we'll see how it goes.

But in the meantime I've been looking for a set of 18" wheels on craigslist and came across a set of rs4 wheels with tires (alright tread). I have no clue if they're genuine or reps but I'm assuming they're reps because he has no idea either. The 5th wheel is a gunmetal finish unlike the others. However, he wants my 15" stockers that have new tires along with $300 on top of them for trade. Would this be worth it?
Here are the wheels:
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/20150103_155927_zpse5288ee6.jpeg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/20150103_155927_zpse5288ee6.jpeg.html)
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/20150103_155946_zpsfa56e318.jpeg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/20150103_155946_zpsfa56e318.jpeg.html)
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/20150103_160001_zpsa728fa5a.jpeg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/20150103_160001_zpsa728fa5a.jpeg.html)

This one has some bad curb rash
http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/20150103_160026_zps7bbff76c.jpeg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/20150103_160026_zps7bbff76c.jpeg.html)

Not from an Rs4, Those are more staggered. Looks like possibly Reps, I've got similar ones in 17' if you want to take a look at my build thread.

Johns
01-03-2015, 03:45 PM
Much appreciated guys. He's giving me a huge hassle saying they're OEM but doesn't have anything to prove it. His argument is 'I own 3 s4's, I think I know what's OEM and what's not'. So I guess my search for wheels will continue [headbang]

Johns
01-05-2015, 03:49 PM
Pull into my driveway the other day, shut the car off and a few seconds later all the interior lights went off (before any of the doors were opened). I checked the fuse panel and surely enough the fuse for the interior lights was blown. So I bought a 2 fuses and when I put the few one in, sparks. So I figured it was because the lights were in the *on when doors open* position and switched it off. I went to plug in another new fuse and the same thing happened. Not having interior lights is becoming quite an inconvenience, I'm assuming it's due to some type of short in the circuitry but I have no clue how to go about checking this. Any help would be appreciated.

Articus
01-05-2015, 07:08 PM
Weird. Are you sure you don't have water where it shouldn't be?

BaseDrifter
01-05-2015, 07:10 PM
I'd definitely start by checking if the central locking pump is submerged in water. It's in the right rear corner of the trunk beneath the carpet (it's in a foam block for noise insulation.)

Johns
01-05-2015, 08:42 PM
I didn't think the central locking pump had anything to do with the lighting. I thought it was just door locks, sunroof, and alarm. The pump was bad when I purchased the car and haven't gotten around to replacing the graphite disk. My locks/sunroof/alarm still work (locks are very slow and the whining sound from the pump is quite loud, sunroof is quite temperamental as well). Also I should note that when I lock/unlock the car with the key fob, none of the lights flash but I still hear the horn when I lock it.

Johns
01-07-2015, 10:01 AM
So there's no signs of water around or in the central locking pump, anyone else have any ideas?

Johns
01-16-2015, 11:20 AM
Replaced the wheel bearing yesterday. The HF kit didn't pose any problems, I applied a very generous amount of grease on the bolt every time I went to used it so that probably helped. Didn't use an impact because my tiny compressor just couldn't keep up with it so I just took my time and used a breaker bar and crescent. The hardest part was removing the upper control arm bolt after years of New England winters. I'm definitely happy that I was able to keep the knuckle on the car and avoid having to get an alignment. Now I'm just waiting for my short shifter and evap canister to come in. I'm looking forward to filling my tank without the pump stopping every 5 seconds. I'm still looking into why my interior lights don't work but I'm just assuming there's a short somewhere [headbang] hopefully I can track it down.

Bruch
01-21-2015, 01:27 PM
So I understand: You remove the top link bolt in order to get the axle out, right? Otherwise everything is still attached.

When you re-install, the order is still bearing into knuckle, then hub into bearing? When you press the hub in, does the tool support the inner bearing races? Or does it support the knuckle/outer race?

Sorry for the interrogation, but I never thought those on-car setups would work. I'm saving some money for one, now.

Thanks

Johns
01-21-2015, 06:21 PM
So I understand: You remove the top link bolt in order to get the axle out, right? Otherwise everything is still attached.

When you re-install, the order is still bearing into knuckle, then hub into bearing? When you press the hub in, does the tool support the inner bearing races? Or does it support the knuckle/outer race?

Sorry for the interrogation, but I never thought those on-car setups would work. I'm saving some money for one, now.

Thanks

After breaking the axle bolt free (while the car is on the ground) removing the brakes (not stressing the lines), there are 2 bolts you need to remove to free the upright in order to get the driveshaft out of the way. But other than that, everything stays untouched.

Re-installing the bearing is the same process: bearing into knuckle until it reaches the seat and can't be pressed in any further, then hub into bearing.

When installing the Hub, the way I did it, I used one of the smaller presses to support the inner bearing (making sure it only made contact with the inner bearing).

This write up helped a ton [up][up] http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4/msgs/126569.phtml but I wish he included the sizes of the bearing presses that were used as it took me a lot of trial and error. Other than that, just make sure everything is being pressed in straight and you just saved yourself time and money.

BUK_DAA
01-23-2015, 12:09 AM
interested in some parts? i have the oem exhaust off my s4 that i recently had replaced and a 96 laser red a4 trunk that i'm willing to let go for cheap.

ModdedEuros
01-23-2015, 09:29 AM
always love seeing first time car buyers taking initiative in working on their own cars. keep up the good work [up]

Johns
01-23-2015, 09:48 AM
interested in some parts? i have the oem exhaust off my s4 that i recently had replaced and a 96 laser red a4 trunk that i'm willing to let go for cheap.

My trunk is fine and an s4 exhaust won't fit an a4 so I'll have to pass


always love seeing first time car buyers taking initiative in working on their own cars. keep up the good work [up]

Thanks!

Johns
01-24-2015, 06:01 PM
Replaced the evap canister and decided to tackle my interior lights today. Whoever installed the head unit decided the mic had to be placed by the rear view mirror and threaded the wire up the A pillar and across the headliner. They did an absolute hack job with it and when they pulled down the headliner to wedge the mic wire in, they pinched the wire harness for the dome lights . Man I missed being able to see at night.

Noticed all the damage around the driver's door so anyone has an driver's side A pillar or felt door trim, shoot me a pm

adam044
01-24-2015, 07:10 PM
Replaced the wheel bearing yesterday. The HF kit didn't pose any problems, I applied a very generous amount of grease on the bolt every time I went to used it so that probably helped. Didn't use an impact because my tiny compressor just couldn't keep up with it so I just took my time and used a breaker bar and crescent. The hardest part was removing the upper control arm bolt after years of New England winters. I'm definitely happy that I was able to keep the knuckle on the car and avoid having to get an alignment. Now I'm just waiting for my short shifter and evap canister to come in. I'm looking forward to filling my tank without the pump stopping every 5 seconds. I'm still looking into why my interior lights don't work but I'm just assuming there's a short somewhere [headbang] hopefully I can track it down.

Ah so that's why the pump shuts off multiple times sometimes. Evap canister hmm, oh well.

Johns
02-03-2015, 05:58 PM
So... Evap canister swapped and I've topped off twice without a problem, but today while filling up, my tank overflowed... This happened before the evap canister swap once, is it possible this canister is bad as well? It was pulled off an allroad with 104k. I always use the same gas station. btw.

Johns
02-05-2015, 06:09 PM
Took my fender liner out to diagnose my leaking washer fluid tank and noticed a significant amount of rust inside my fender (under flaking paint)[=(]. But what's interesting is this

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150205_165500051_zpsvjdmxvso.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150205_165500051_zpsvjdmxvso.jpg.html)

Looks like my driver's fender isn't original and was replaced with a very poorly painted one.

Something else caught my eye while I was underneath the front end. Right behind the intercooler there were 3 hole that lined up and look like something should be in them.. I also saw an arm/bushing that should definitely be mounted to something but wasn't... My phone died at the shop while I was trying to take a picture so I had to wait until I got home to stick my arm under and attempt to take a picture. This is the best I could do on several attempts, I could only get a shot of the arm/bushing. Can anyone tell me what's missing here?

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150205_205210501_zpsmcbvvubu.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150205_205210501_zpsmcbvvubu.jpg.html)

BaseDrifter
02-05-2015, 06:24 PM
That's the bushing for the lower intercooler mount. There should be a plastic nub that sticks out from the intercooler that locks into that bushing. Wouldn't be surprised if it's broken off though.

Johns
02-08-2015, 03:44 PM
That's the bushing for the lower intercooler mount.

Thanks

I was on the highway last night just cruising and noticed the car pulsed pretty hard, all my gauges looked fine and no CEL so I just hoped it wasn't anything serious. Got back on the highway this morning and felt the same thing a couple more times. At this point I started babying the throttle and became a bit paranoid as I thought the car wasn't accelerating as usual. I assumed it was either a bad fuel filter or my fuel pump was going. Later, I went to move my car so I could plow my driveway later and I got a CEL. So I drove it for a bit just to get it up to temp and it seemed to be driving fine (hard to tell on the snowy roads). So I scanned for codes and the only one that came up was p0321. Then I blipped the throttle really lightly and the car died instantly. Started it again and it took a few seconds to start. Then my RPM's hung at 1200 so I waited as usual for it to drop back to 800 and after a few minutes, it still hadn't returned to the normal idle. So I scanned for codes again and it gave me p0321 and p0322. So it looks like I'm getting a new CPS. ECS seems to have the best price, doesn't say what make it is but it should do the trick.

Johns
02-16-2015, 05:04 PM
Quick update, found time to replace the CPS today and got cured my CEL. Old one was pretty damn bad. Also noticed my head gasket could definitely use a replacement so hopefully I can get to that within the week.

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150216_184506227_HDR_zpsvoqwkdzg.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150216_184506227_HDR_zpsvoqwkdzg.jpg.html)

redline380
02-16-2015, 05:07 PM
Also noticed my head gasket could definitely use a replacement so hopefully I can get to that within the week.

How did you determine that?

Johns
02-16-2015, 05:10 PM
How did you determine that?

Just oil around the head and I could smell burning oil a bit when I popped the hood

redline380
02-16-2015, 05:22 PM
Just oil around the head and I could smell burning oil a bit when I popped the hood

Unlikely it is the head gasket. Look at the valve cover gasket and cam chain tensioner geasket

BaseDrifter
02-16-2015, 05:26 PM
Also oil cooler o-ring and breather system, more likely to be from VC or CCT gasket as mentioned though.

Johns
02-16-2015, 06:43 PM
Unlikely it is the head gasket. Look at the valve cover gasket and cam chain tensioner geasket

Sounds good, also what are some sings of the cam chain tensioner going bad?

viceprp
02-16-2015, 07:34 PM
Loud tapping/clicking.

Johns
02-16-2015, 07:45 PM
Loud tapping/clicking.

Anything else? I can only slightly hear tapping but that's only when I'm listening for it.. Not sure if I'm just being over cautious

viceprp
02-16-2015, 07:48 PM
It would be loud like a diesel. Very audible.

Check you guides.

Johns
03-01-2015, 04:46 PM
Replaced another rear wheel bearing today. Everything went fine but I noticed my hub was considerably damaged. I don't have $300+ for a new rear hub, so it'll have to do for now. Will this cause extreme premature wear on the bearing?

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/3b67c001-8e46-43fe-996e-0a3cfd56030a_zpsfs2qttml.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/3b67c001-8e46-43fe-996e-0a3cfd56030a_zpsfs2qttml.jpg.html)

I drove the car back home and locked it up then a few minutes later noticed my alarm started going off. I proceded to make sure all doors were closed properly and locked it again. The lights flash when I unlock it but while unlocking, the lights don't flash and the horn sounds a few seconds later, then after a few minutes the alarm will go off. I've seen discussions on this before but it looks like I'll have to take a closer look into it.

Johns
03-04-2015, 08:57 AM
Pulled into the driveway this morning and noticed the engine ticking was very audible at idle. Looks like I'll be replacing the cam chain tensioner.

I'm looking at the Blauparts kit as it appears to be the best value, anyone have any other suggestions?

Johns
03-11-2015, 04:41 PM
Another question about the CCT. Will it throw a CEL if it's bad? The ticking isn't exactly audible from inside the car unless you're listening for it. However, it's noticeable from outside the car.

Johns
05-11-2015, 06:53 PM
No Updates for a while but I've had some extra money lately to give the B5 some attention.

Installed 5.25" Infinity Kappa's up front. Install was pretty straight forward (bought some adapters from the UK). I think I screwed up mounting something on my driver's door as I'm getting a slight rattle when I really push them. Probably the crossover..

I know everyone says it when they get new speakers but it's just a world of difference.

Anyway, here's pictures to compare.

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150511_172208226_zpsafxjluez.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150511_172208226_zpsafxjluez.jpg.html)

Similar in depth:

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150511_172305647_zpss88tnsdh.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150511_172305647_zpss88tnsdh.jpg.html)

Adapter installed with some adhesive foam the Kappas came with, not sure how much this helped to prevent rattling but why not:

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150511_193507451_zps6pds28nh.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150511_193507451_zps6pds28nh.jpg.html)

Width comparison:

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150511_170538828_zps4esvxxcg.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150511_170538828_zps4esvxxcg.jpg.html)

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150511_183152112_zpsgksfh71k.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150511_183152112_zpsgksfh71k.jpg.html)

Installed depth comparison (adapters are pretty thick)

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150511_170603947_zps6mh5rkyl.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150511_170603947_zps6mh5rkyl.jpg.html)

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150511_183210639_zpsthqgq3tb.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150511_183210639_zpsthqgq3tb.jpg.html)

No issues with the depth, door cards went right back on, windows act as usual.

Ordered some Auto-rx to clean up the engine and transmission, I'll try to do my best with before & after comparisons.

Ordered Solowerks but those won't be here until the end of the month.

Hopefully going to pick up a new fender tomorrow, just need to verify the color code.

That's all for now!

Bordom
05-11-2015, 08:54 PM
Interested in the audio upgrade. Was thinking of grabbing some things from crutchfield.ca since they come with free adapters. How did you wire them in?

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Johns
05-11-2015, 09:16 PM
Interested in the audio upgrade. Was thinking of grabbing some things from crutchfield.ca since they come with free adapters. How did you wire them in?

Literally just take the positive and negative wires from the OEM speaker and insert them into the crossover accordingly, tighten the screws to secure the wires. Extremely straight-forward. I thought I'd have to do something with the stock tweeter since they're co-axials but Ray told me not to worry about it and everything's working great.

Total for the speakers and adapters with shipping came out to $83 and some change.

I'm eyeing some 6.75" Infinity Kappa 3-ways for the rear deck once I feel as though the OEM speakers are on their last leg (which will be soon since I'll be enjoying the enhanced quality)

Bordom
05-11-2015, 09:35 PM
Literally just take the positive and negative wires from the OEM speaker and insert them into the crossover accordingly, tighten the screws to secure the wires. Extremely straight-forward. I thought I'd have to do something with the stock tweeter since they're co-axials but Ray told me not to worry about it and everything's working great.

Total for the speakers and adapters with shipping came out to $83 and some change.

I'm eyeing some 6.75" Infinity Kappa 3-ways for the rear deck once I feel as though the OEM speakers are on their last leg (which will be soon since I'll be enjoying the enhanced quality)

That is extremely straight forward and cheap. My rear deck is dead and vibrates on hard bass hits lol

You don't need to spend much money on the rear deck. It's only for ambient sound. A buddy of mine who owns an audio shop told me to spend money on the fronts as that's where you spend all your time.

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Johns
06-02-2015, 02:35 PM
Coilovers and new fender are in. Hopefully picking up some S4 seats tomorrow!

I've gotta get these wheels sandblasted so I can prep them for paint. Trying to get them on for the rest of summer.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/02/9ff6d319768334de16daa43a3124b25b.jpg

rockbeau25
06-02-2015, 03:28 PM
However, there's still so much to do, the list seems endless. Here's some pictures of how she currently sits (I did the clear corner mod until I have the money for newer projectors)

http://www.audizine.com/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG_20141202_140405591_HDR.jpg

Sorry to bring up an old topic but where'd you find the clear corners and how hard were they to install? Thanks

down_n_dapper
06-02-2015, 04:22 PM
keep the pictures coming!

Nice work on the 5.25 speaker install btw, been eyeing that off for a while. I stuck with 4" in the front and separately amped 6" on the rear deck with a 12 inch sub, best setup of my life

Johns
06-02-2015, 05:35 PM
Sorry to bring up an old topic but where'd you find the clear corners and how hard were they to install? Thanks

Clear corners are just a modification to non-european spec headlights. Since e-codes (european code) have clear corners, us U.S. people have to to drill out the amber piece of plastic and remove it through the lowbeam hole. A quick search should show some DIY's. I suggest just buying DEPO E-codes. Much cleaner and not too expensive. That's what I'll end up doing.


keep the pictures coming!

Nice work on the 5.25 speaker install btw, been eyeing that off for a while. I stuck with 4" in the front and separately amped 6" on the rear deck with a 12 inch sub, best setup of my life

I plan on getting some 3-ways for the rear and a 12" sealed sub but I don't see that in my budget until the turn of 2016. Something to note though, my passenger's side speaker seems to be defective as it quickly began rattling. Thought it was just the doorcard or how I mounted it but a couple tests proved it to be the speaker itself.

Infinity is covering it under warranty and I'll be getting the shipping label from them within the next few days. Driver's side speaker is fine however, probably just my bad luck.

Johns
06-03-2015, 01:59 PM
Picked up some S4 seats and chrome mirror housings. Paid $220. I'll probably only swap out the front seats. S4 bumper and sideskirts hopefully on Saturday!

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/03/c0165f11ae043aff5ea230c3a1831909.jpg

Really cool guys too. He's the original owner of his Imola S4 with 156k on it. Also just picked up a noggy S4 avant from which he's selling the engine/transmission because he's got an rs6 engine on the way from Europe.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/03/e7c1cfb8e3cb8965173f53e80a346b50.jpg

He somehow scored a set of B8 S4 seats for $1k which he'll be putting into the Imola.

sadiel100
06-03-2015, 03:56 PM
thats a good buy and for a good price and the car looks good and manual tranny !

down_n_dapper
06-04-2015, 02:14 AM
drool @ the imola owners avant plans [drool] [drool]

Johns
06-04-2015, 08:12 PM
I had never even heard of it being done until he told me of his plans, apparently 2 people in Europe have done it and they both did it differently. He has plans for 700whp+. Tried convincing him to post a build thread for it as he used to be on the forums but he didn't seem too intrigued at the thought.


drool @ the imola owners avant plans [drool] [drool]

Washed/clayed/waxed today. I'm going to try and install the coilovers before work tomorrow.

Noticed all the imperfections in the paint but I suppose it could be worse. Clearcoat is absolutely shot on the rear bumper but I'll get it re-sprayed when I have my other body work brought to the shop.

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150604_165029550_zpsppbjklou.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150604_165029550_zpsppbjklou.jpg.html)

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150604_165038244_zpskawdfotr.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150604_165038244_zpskawdfotr.jpg.html)

Also, what's the best way to approach mounting S4 seats? I know I have to cut out the stock seat bracket but will welding a nut into the S4 mounting areas be necessary?

Johns
06-24-2015, 02:37 PM
Attempted to install SS lines but quickly realized it would be a more thorough process. Stripped one of the rears with a flare wrench so I figured I'd better set aside a day to tackle those.

Swapped the brakes all around, no upgrades so nothing special. But I patched up my Passenger CV Joint, lets see how long that lasts [wrench]

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150623_200847683_zpsupkbt13n.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150623_200847683_zpsupkbt13n.jpg.html)

Any idea how to tell if the axle is OEM? didn't really look at it much since it's so rusted.

Also swapped to S4 seats, plan on grabbing matching door cards eventually.

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150623_222944956_zps45eb5qpc.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150623_222944956_zps45eb5qpc.jpg.html)

I can't figure out the noisy rear suspension though. Lubed up all the upper control arm bushings and it took care of the squeaking on one side but increased it on the other [headbang]

Couple questions:
Does anyone know of a good leather repair kit they can recommend? Just a couple cracks and tears I want to cover up (I already fixed the tear itself)
How much should it cost to sandblast & powder coat a set of wheels? Google showed pretty inconsistent results and I was quoted locally $500

Turbo_B5
06-24-2015, 05:02 PM
all the quotes I got where to refinish and powdercoat $200/wheel for a stock color or $250 a wheel for a crazy color. $150 a wheel for paint iirc. <all these quotes are what i remember from 6months ago.

Johns
08-04-2015, 08:17 PM
Took off my valve cover since my CCT parts will be here tomorrow, much more sludge than I had anticipated [headbang].

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150804_214016836_zpsln7b2kqz.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150804_214016836_zpsln7b2kqz.jpg.html)

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150804_213958718_zpsvy6f957f.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150804_213958718_zpsvy6f957f.jpg.html)

Timing is a bit advanced as the CCT finally threw a CEL today (P0011).

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150804_220006586_zpsarreaipj.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150804_220006586_zpsarreaipj.jpg.html)

Also broke an air pump hose in the process (058133785B). Is this hose for a system that can be deleted? Or should I just grab a new hose

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150804_221533666_zpspkawybr7.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150804_221533666_zpspkawybr7.jpg.html)

Johns
08-07-2015, 07:26 AM
Finished everything up, had a couple head scratching moments but that comes with the learning curve. Still have a CEL but I haven't checked what for yet. I'm going to take her back to the shop tonight to address a couple other things (cv joint, speaker mounting, extremely squeaky rear upper control arm).

The oil screen on the old CCT was in better condition than I thought, but I'm still blaming it for it's failure.

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150806_184031672_zpshyfa0bwe.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150806_184031672_zpshyfa0bwe.jpg.html)

Decided to remove the screen before installing the new CCT

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150806_185217932_zpszgpvntel.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150806_185217932_zpszgpvntel.jpg.html)

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150806_222209180_zpsgacrwrq0.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150806_222209180_zpsgacrwrq0.jpg.html)

What an incredible difference in performance, everything is so much smoother

Johns
08-13-2015, 08:45 PM
Car's finally drivable after a week, no thanks to ECS tuning [headbang]. I ended up getting a retainer clip for my cv joint from FCP Euro since ECS insisted it's not included with the kit.. No pics since I didn't have my phone on me but when I took it for a drive, I thought I really fucked something up. Turns out I accidentally bent the brake shield and it was rubbing on the rotor...

I noticed I need more power to my speakers since they all call for 55 rms and I'm only putting out 20 rms to each. I'm not very familiar with amplifiers and wiring so what might be the best way to approach installing an amp?

Johns
09-24-2015, 06:37 PM
This is how bad the cv joint was prior to replacement:

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150807_170656688_zps0wdm9pgb.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150807_170656688_zps0wdm9pgb.jpg.html)

Installed an amp about a month ago, temporarily tucked away the wires along the rear deck, but I don't see myself cleaning it up anytime soon. There's no loose or hanging wires so I don't have any reasons to tidy it up.

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150924_134456529_HDR_zps1gi1r1qe.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150924_134456529_HDR_zps1gi1r1qe.jpg.html)

Couple shots with my phone since it's not yet DLSR worthy

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150917_164304242_HDR_zps8bxx9rja.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150917_164304242_HDR_zps8bxx9rja.jpg.html)

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20150917_164435563_HDR_zpskn2ffue7.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20150917_164435563_HDR_zpskn2ffue7.jpg.html)

I've been living with a (VERY) squeaky passenger rear suspension since February and cannot narrow down which bushing is bad. I bought a new upper outer bushing and went to install it today but I inspected the other bushings and one of the lower inner bushings looked MUCH worse that the suspected bushing. I sprayed some silicone on it but didn't do anything to prevent the squeaking. I can't figure it out and I hate drawing attention from how terribly loud my car is.

DeathKing
09-24-2015, 09:23 PM
I've been living with a (VERY) squeaky passenger rear suspension since February and cannot narrow down which bushing is bad. I bought a new upper outer bushing and went to install it today but I inspected the other bushings and one of the lower inner bushings looked MUCH worse that the suspected bushing. I sprayed some silicone on it but didn't do anything to prevent the squeaking. I can't figure it out and I hate drawing attention from how terribly loud my car is.

When I picked my car up it was squeaking bad too. SO annoying and embarrassing with others in the car. Lube did nothing.

ECS had a sale on rear upper control arms and I said fuck it. Not to say that's your only option because trust me I really did not want to drop that much money for such a part but hey, it worked.

Johns
09-24-2015, 09:36 PM
When I picked my car up it was squeaking bad too. SO annoying and embarrassing with others in the car. Lube did nothing.

ECS had a sale on rear upper control arms and I said fuck it. Not to say that's your only option because trust me I really did not want to drop that much money for such a part but hey, it worked.
I have the upper outer bushing that I'll replace but I just can't find the source of the sound. I don't think it's the upper inners so that still leaves 3.

Hopefully the source is the bushing I have ready to replace!

Johns
10-13-2015, 09:21 PM
Replaced another wheel bearing today, didn't replace the bushing because it looks like the only way to remove the old bushing will be on a press.

Developed my first boost leak and it's a big one. I'll have to fabricate something to find the leak within the week.

In the meantime, I'm searching for a set of used 235/45R17's on craigslist so I can get my B6 5 spoke sport wheels on.

Johns
11-12-2015, 06:05 AM
Was going to replace both inner and outer tie rods but when I removed the boots, power steering fluid poured out. So I decided not to waste my time with the inners and just replaced the outers. I'm looking at a replacement steering rack from the rack doctor. Not looking forward to the process, but it looks like I'll be replacing it around Christmas.

Since the tires on my stockers were shot, I got my B6 wheels on for the winter. I still haven't decided what I want to run for a summer setup.

http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/Baylee_Johns/IMG_20151112_075706309_HDR_zpsawegwzwe.jpg (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/Baylee_Johns/media/IMG_20151112_075706309_HDR_zpsawegwzwe.jpg.html)

adam044
02-23-2016, 10:27 AM
Looks good

Johns
03-04-2016, 02:53 PM
So I've been getting a bit of water in my engine. I've noticed a good amount of milky residue about halfway up the dipstick. The weather has been extremely inconsistent this winter with some days in the upper 50's and others leaving 2 ft of snow. What concerns me is that I've also lost a good amount of coolant. I know this could just be a coincidence but neither of which were noticeable prior to winter.

Am I looking at a potential bad head gasket?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Turbo_B5
03-04-2016, 03:40 PM
So I've been getting a bit of water in my engine. I've noticed a good amount of milky residue about halfway up the dipstick. The weather has been extremely inconsistent this winter with some days in the upper 50's and others leaving 2 ft of snow. What concerns me is that I've also lost a good amount of coolant. I know this could just be a coincidence but neither of which were noticeable prior to winter.

Am I looking at a potential bad head gasket?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Change the oil cooler and see if it fixes the issue.

Johns
03-20-2016, 04:49 PM
Front Passenger's inner CV is going bad I think. Does the joint vary depending on engine code? ECS lists a different joint for AWM. I cross-referenced the manufacturing # with FCP and it brought me to a rear inner CV joint... Obviously I want to buy from FCP over ECS after my last issue with my outer CV joint from them, but I need a part #

Johns
04-01-2016, 10:20 PM
First start with $100 exhaust. Smoke is from the brand new HFC.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Tx-iM5b3KFagpP1QnDVQiIR9CidLVE8R7w/view?usp=sharing

Can't figure out how to embed the video..

Bordom
04-01-2016, 11:10 PM
It's so quiet

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