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View Full Version : PCV block, also anyone recognize the symptoms?



Tenedorr
11-22-2014, 07:02 AM
Is there a good DIY for blocking PCV I searched around and saw conflicting reports. I want to make sure of what I'm doing before I just start blocking off hoses. So far what I see is to remove the hose from the intake to the valve cover and plug those ports. Also does this sound like PCV or diverter valve or really anything familiar.....rpm surge at easy cruising throttle most of the time, it's sluggish pretty much all the time, gas pedal feels soft and unresponsive at times, when i go WOT it will have a few spurts of no power(like little bucks or shudders or what have you) at med-high RPM like 4-6 and if I stay on it then at high RPM it will have complete power loss until I let off the gas. Today I let it sit and idle for maybe 2 minutes and came out, the EPC light was on. Shut the car off and turned it back on, light was gone. When I first start the car there is a squeak squeak squeak sound that I first though could be a belt or something, also the oil cover is impossible to even turn. Not sure if thats because I had just started the car or what. No I don't have VAG or access to VAG I am in the sticks of Maine and am pretty much left to self diagnose or go to Audi (who are essentially uneducated criminals around here) or one of the indy shops an hour or so away. I'd much rather do it myself than bring it to a shop. Yes, I plan on buying VAG but that doesn't help right now. It was suggested I try blocking the PCV so I might as well try it, right? Thanks guys.

Alucard136
11-22-2014, 08:06 AM
Buy e.g bsh pcv revamp with or without catch can. Your car will run so much better without the pcv witch always breaks.

JDillon15
11-22-2014, 12:26 PM
Buy e.g bsh pcv revamp with or without catch can. Your car will run so much better without the pcv witch always breaks.

W/O catch can should only be a temporary fix.

Tenedorr
11-22-2014, 12:53 PM
W/O catch can should only be a temporary fix.

Agreed. At this point I am just trying to diagnose the problem. If blocking the PCV relieves the symptoms then I'll move forward accordingly, with some helpful advice from my mentors at Audizine [az]

Alucard136
11-22-2014, 03:25 PM
Blocking the pcv is not a fix, only a good part to swap :) my pcv were leakig without me knowing it and the result of the blocing was impresiv to say the least

Tenedorr
11-22-2014, 03:33 PM
Blocking the pcv is not a fix, only a good part to swap :) my pcv were leakig without me knowing it and the result of the blocing was impresiv to say the least

What? It seems like you're saying blocking the pcv wont fix anything but if I do it I'll be impressed with the results. Care to clarify?

Alucard136
11-23-2014, 12:34 AM
Ah, my bad. I mean blocking the pcv might not fix your problem but its something you should do anyhow since the pcv is prone to fail. As for the impressive result, a new pcv would likely do the same thing so i dont know why i wrote like it were the best thing ever.

My broken pcv gave me a power loss and the car felt sluggish. Nothing else

Tenedorr
11-23-2014, 09:48 AM
Ok so I blocked off the PCV and went for a ride. Still the fluttering RPM's, still the a couple little complete power loss pop's (I didn't keep it floored afterward but I'm sure it would have still done a complete stall until I let off the gas again per usual) but the car did seem a little more snappy at lower throttle. Granted, that could be just wishful thinking because it was slight. So, so CEL as of yet. Next I shut the car off and unplugged MAF. Went for a drive, no real difference in performance except the car skid light came on, it still did the stutter die thing but this time as soon as it stuttered the CEL came on, so I'm assuming the MAF was compensating for whatever is the culprit enough so it won't CEL? Thoughts?

Tenedorr
11-23-2014, 10:12 AM
Also there was a whiteish sludge in the hose I pulled. Not a lot of it, but like if you had a runny nose. It actually looked like snot a little. I did check the dipstick and the oil cap, oil is the normal color.

Alucard136
11-23-2014, 10:15 AM
Do you have an atomatic? I remember reading about problems with fluttering rpm on atomatics. Otherwise maybe a vaccum leak?

Tenedorr
11-23-2014, 10:20 AM
Yeah it's tiptronic.

Alucard136
11-23-2014, 11:12 AM
Here is one of the trends i were thinking about. Maybe this can be of help?

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/415135-A4-revving-issue-while-at-low-speeds

JDillon15
11-23-2014, 11:17 AM
Here is one of the trends i were thinking about. Maybe this can be of help?

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/415135-A4-revving-issue-while-at-low-speeds


search 'rpm fluctuations' theres a number of things.

1. replace n80 vavle - n80 (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/401986-replaced-the-n80-valve-no-CEL-smoother-idle-no-vibrations-when-in-D-etc?highlight=n80+vavle)
$20 from your local VW/Audi Dealer. I replaced mine for S&G
2. jb weld fitting - JB weld-the best thing ever (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/406280-Finally-found-the-problem-!!!?highlight=finally+found+the+problem)
If this is the case, pretty easy fix. I did this fix, experienced studders while stopping (The engine felt as if it wanted to keep going even when coming to a complete stop.)
3. transmission fluid - ATF replace (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/414061-A4-B7-Tiptronic-ATF-Replacement-The-DIY?highlight=ATF)
Based on other symptoms, I doubt this is it, but this fluid should be replaced. I don't think it's your culprit though.
Your Welcome.

In your other post, I was beginning to think TC. If you went this route, they replace your trans fluid, but it's pretty pricey.