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View Full Version : Bypassing tb Samco S-Hose (making a straight shot). Who has done it to oem fitment?



A1 A2 German
10-30-2014, 10:05 PM
(Ignore the oem fitment statement in the title, meant to say aftermarket straight bolt on fitment which I'm trying to duplicate)

This is what I'm trying to do: http://oi43.tinypic.com/2sb9a2b.jpg

My Samco s-hose coupling is just barley working out, it's a two man job to get it to bend back on itself to slide onto the tb lip. One guy to use all his strength and weight to slip it on while the other tightens the clamp. In addition, it's some super funky chicken, I would 100% say this ridiculous S-bend is hampering some ponies and spool. The air is flowing at full speed till it hits this piece and has to snake back on itself and then snake back again....it is thee most inhibiting bend you can get. Not to mention kinda an eye sore and taking up more space then needed. I believe it was made this way to get around the cruise control which I removed.

So, I will be making a full custom fmic set up in the future, however this kit is direct bolt on fitment so I'm trying to keep it pretty much as so as come selling time I don't want to be stuck with a one off pieced kit which would be worthless to others. The other issue, it has to be done in one days time and no welding. The problem is this Godspeed kit (or any other EVOMS kit most likely) comes up from underneath and turns and travels the underneath length of the headlight. The fmic pipe is hidden, till it turns into the S-pipe coupling, it sits 100% perfect below the ecode in a ~slot. What's kinda funny is the pipe shoots out up to or almost past...the tb opening...so it needs that S-coupling to actually double back on itself and travel up.

The s-coupling is also a reducer too, as the tb is larger in diameter then the fmic piping so it has a larger outlet then inlet (smaller inlet for fmic piping, larger outlet for tb)

I could need:

1) One tb coupling reducer down to fmic piping size (~3" long reducer) kinda like this: http://www.hps-siliconehoses.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/h/p/hps_reducer_black_8.jpg

2) Maybe 2' of ~2" straight aluminum pipe to go from the coupling down to the bottom of the ecode area kinda like this: http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m5jgoN60yf2VuZWowiEo7jw.jpg

3) But then what, a 45 degree coupling (as that 2' above piece slants down at ~45degress towards the ecode)? To route from the straight pipe above to mate to the downward part of the existing fmic pipe?

This is were it gets tricky, the pipe kinda goes under the ecode. My problem is I have to order this stuff and have it done that day (one of the reasons I'm hunting for another car) which sucks...always racing the clock. And, I have to cut up/into the piping to get started, and once I do that there's no turning back. So who has done a straight shot from under the ecode (considering you're using one of the after market straight bolt on kits) to the tb?


Considering I had all the parts, this could be as easy as a 10 min job or a "I can't make it to work".

Notice it the pic you do not see the fmic hard pipe, it travels parallel the length of the ecode directly underneath it, then drops down kinda by the turn single bulb area, straight down to some odd turns again to the fmic outlet.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Blakelikesfood333/SamcoHose_zpsb1fd224e.jpg (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/Blakelikesfood333/media/SamcoHose_zpsb1fd224e.jpg.html)

A1 A2 German
10-31-2014, 11:15 AM
Any one know the oem tb coupling size (#1)?

There's not a chance I'm pulling off the coupling to measure the tb inlet. 2 of use used everything we had after many attempts just to get it on, stupid coupling! Can't even takes the 30seconds to pop it off for a quick measurement, another reason I'm deleating it.

fed0ra
10-31-2014, 12:18 PM
Any one know the oem tb coupling size (#1)?

There's not a chance I'm pulling off the coupling to measure the tb inlet. 2 of use used everything we had after many attempts just to get it on, stupid coupling! Can't even takes the 30seconds to pop it off for a quick measurement, another reason I'm deleating it.

2.5" at the TB.

A1 A2 German
10-31-2014, 01:47 PM
Thanks!

So it'll be a 2.5"- 2.25", or 2.5"-2" reducer coupling. I can easly find that out.

Any one have pic/parts list where everything meets below/by the ecode?

fed0ra
10-31-2014, 01:54 PM
Thanks!

So it'll be a 2.5"- 2.25", or 2.5"-2" reducer coupling. I can easly find that out.

Any one have pic/parts list where everything meets below/by the ecode?

If it's going to the stock SMIC then the piping is 2", so you would need a 2.5" -> 2" coupler.

viceprp
10-31-2014, 03:21 PM
Could always buy multiple reducers and send back those you font use.. I run a straight coupler off my BAT but my plumbing isn't a straight shot down.

pbcrazy
10-31-2014, 03:41 PM
It sounds like you have similar piping to mine, I've considered this job but never got around to it. The easiest way to do it would be a 2.5-2" reducer at the throttle body, then bend the piping slightly to get it to fit. Take it to an exhaust shop and just have them bend the pipe for $20, would be a heck of a lot easier than cutting and welding

A1 A2 German
10-31-2014, 03:51 PM
The 2.5"-2" tb reducer and 2' of 2" straight pipe is a straight shot and easy to figure out....but figuring out how to mate the end of that straight pipe to the exsisting piping is what I need figured out.

I have to do it all in one shot and can't drive anywhere and there are not shops I can just buy 10 different angles and shaped couplings that I can return later. The current fmic piping piece is quite oddly shaped and one single piece from the outlet of the fmic that pushing out towards the foglight, then straight up the rad support, sharp turn to the left under the ecode and all the way the length of the ecode (then blue s-hose to tb).

I do relieze I'll have to cut the exsisting fmic off somewhere around the rad support/ecode area to add a coupling to try to mate to the 2' long 2" pipe....but what?

B5nDisciple
10-31-2014, 09:08 PM
Would a 45 degree reducer off the tb with a 2" 45 at the other end work? After reading your thread I just bought a throttle body hose for my car lol (Apikol on BFI website for $59.00 plus shipping).

A1 A2 German
10-31-2014, 09:48 PM
The tb is already pointed down towards the ecode at a 45 degree angle. So all you need a a straight reducer and ~2' of 2" piping to naturally be at 45 degrees (see first link in my first post). If you placed a 45 off the tb the piping it would shoot probably straight down (45 degree natrual slope of the tb plus another 45 degree reducer would be a full 90 so would equal straight down).

B5nDisciple
10-31-2014, 10:09 PM
The tb is already pointed down towards the ecode at a 45 degree angle. So all you need a a straight reducer and ~2' of 2" piping to naturally be at 45 degrees (see first link in my first post). If you placed a 45 off the tb the piping it would shoot probably straight down (45 degree natrual slope of the tb plus another 45 degree reducer would be a full 90 so would equal straight down).
True, curious to see it once it's done.

rodgertherabit
11-01-2014, 08:26 AM
A simple protractor should solve this issue quite easily. In fact, im gonna go get one for my FMIC build haha

https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ4uAwyNF2PYNgGPGWQHWOs4zoeXzwyx A9UKRexfcAWvLjEgp9X

A1 A2 German
11-01-2014, 10:12 AM
That would be easier if in the service position. The problem isn't so much the angle, it's if the 45degree elbow will even fit on as its very tight in there. There's not enough pipe coming out from under the ecode. Popping the hood and looking straight down all the ic piping is hidden underneath it and ticked against the rad support. Godspeed FMIC FTR.

Edit: Jumped the gun, bought the tb reducer coupling, 45degree coupling and 18" of 2" aluminum straight pipe, gonna be a bit till it all shows up.