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View Full Version : In-Frame underhaul viability 1.8T ATW



Nu2Tbo
10-30-2014, 09:01 AM
Hello all,

This is my first post and I am looking forward to the expert advise!

Question: I have a 1.8T (ATW) and am wondering if it viable to perform and in-frame underhaul (rods and mains)? I have the bentley manual and it referenced this as a possibility although not preferred. I have the car in service position and I'm removing the head due to a blown gasket and replacing the timing belt/water pump; figured since I was that far I'd do a little more work. The main reason why I would like to get this done is that I've noticed low oil pressure at low RPM's (1500 - 1900).

Other info that maybe helpful - Compression from 1 to 4; 130, 140, 140, 120

Any help would be MUCH appreciated!

GrapeBandit
10-30-2014, 09:11 AM
just pull the block. you already uave the head off, it will take about another 30mins to get the block out. its easy

redline380
10-30-2014, 09:14 AM
Only way it would be viable (note- not possible) is by taking off the subframe to have enough room to work. If you are going that far, might as well just pull the engine. It may actually be faster in the long run.

Nu2Tbo
10-30-2014, 09:18 AM
Thank you for the info. I'll borrow a hoist and stand and go that route.

Nu2Tbo
10-30-2014, 09:45 AM
Any recommendations on an engine rebuild kit. I see UROTuning has one listed for $140.

http://www.urotuning.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Rebuild_1.8T_Late

viceprp
10-30-2014, 09:46 AM
I got my oil pan off on my 058 without dropping the subframe or damaging the oil pump. Definitely take the motor out. If you have the $$$ and plan on going BT, throw in rods. I would highly recommend this even if you only plan on going k04. Mod bug has gotten us all.

redline380
10-30-2014, 10:01 AM
Any recommendations on an engine rebuild kit. I see UROTuning has one listed for $140.

http://www.urotuning.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Rebuild_1.8T_Late

What are you all doing? Reboring or just new rings? I would not buy a whole rebuild kit myself.

Also, yes, throw in forged rods no matter what. Would be a huge selling point even.

GrapeBandit
10-30-2014, 10:18 AM
pick up eagle rods, they are the cheapest and hold up well

redline380
10-30-2014, 10:20 AM
pick up eagle rods, they are the cheapest and hold up well

The 10k miles on my motor are with el cheapo forged rods I got for $250. One hell of a risk, but they are holding up well. Lets just say I keep a spare block just in case though

GrapeBandit
10-30-2014, 10:25 AM
The 10k miles on my motor are with el cheapo forged rods I got for $250. One hell of a risk, but they are holding up well. Lets just say I keep a spare block just in case though
ebay forged? did you weigh them before you installed to see if they were +/- 1gr?

redline380
10-30-2014, 10:31 AM
ebay forged? did you weigh them before you installed to see if they were +/- 1gr?


Ebay equivalent I got from another website. Didn't weight them or anything, but they did come with a sheet of their weights.

I'm too trusting.

GrapeBandit
10-30-2014, 10:36 AM
Ebay equivalent I got from another website. Didn't weight them or anything, but they did come with a sheet of their weights.

I'm too trusting.
^
risky guy [:D]

Nu2Tbo
10-30-2014, 11:36 AM
Thanks for the information, all. This is the first Audi I've owned and I bought it with 180K miles knowing it needed some love. I've decided to pickup a spare motor with 100k less miles to throw in it. Still planning on removing the head on the replacement and going through it. It will give me time to build up the old motor. Look forward to advice on mods in the future [>_<] !!!

Corrado_Guy
11-01-2014, 08:11 PM
You can do it with the motor in the car but it is hard to access the rear rods with the motor in the car and you can't do the main crank bearings with the motor in the car. As mentioned it does not take a whole lot more to get the whole motor out. With the motor out you can also do the flywheel/clutch if needed and the rear main. Working on it out the car is much easier and you can keep things clean as well. I just did the bottom end on mine with rods and I did it out of the car. I have removed the oil pan with the motor in the car and removed the motor and I would prefer the later. I also did my clutch, transmission seals and gear oil, front sub-frame bushings, and a bunch of other things. When it is apart make sure to take a good look at your PCV system and test all of the check valves on the vacuum system. I measured all of the bores which were barely worn so a quick hone and new rings and bearings plus a lot of cleaning and it is all back together and running well.

vrmm
11-06-2014, 12:07 AM
FWIW I bought that uro tuning kit. I was worried that it wouldn't work given that it was a 'late' 1.8t kit. Figured it was for an 00' or 01'(which may be what an atw is), I don't think those years are any different, but the kit worked perfectly anyways. I also got the redline lube and it worked great as far as I know. Nothing seized. You should check out my thread if you haven't. It's recent. There may be a few helpful things in there if you haven't read it yet.
If you're planning to build it((which you make no mention of).......... If I was to do it again I'd just buy ie drop in rods. My eagles were +/- 2 grams 579, 579, 578, and 577. I don't think it matters though. I believe it was the bolts being slightly longer in two of the rods. I think most manufactures are +/- 5-6 grams from the factory. I might be wrong about that, but it's what I found in multiple places on da webs.

The kit is very reasonably priced in my opinion. I was trying to piece everything together that was in the kit and it was just a headache. You should contact mike at ringer racing. He told me I should have emailed him before I bought all the parts since he offers discounts on multiple items. And DEFINITELY check the ring gaps. The grants are very veryyyyy inconsistent. I had 3 sets in my possession and they all had different gaps.

Also the ie rods mike sells are v2 and are drop in.

The main thing i've learned from my audi is skip trying to save time. It's not a Subaru and things weren't thought out too well in regards to easy maintenance for the most part. Pull the engine and in the end it will save a lot of time. I've wasted a lot of time trying to save time by leaving parts on/in, but always end up having to pull whatever it is. I would never want to have to rebuild my 1.8 with it still in the car. It would be a hell of a lot easier to just take it out. That said, as much of a pain it was to put the engine back in, well next time I might leave it in.... The bearings would fall down and well just accessibility.

My build thread
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/619699-Approve-my-engine-build-parts

Also, you should use non synthetic 5-30 to break it in. Not full synthetic. It's controversial, but from all that i've read full synthetic is too "slippery" and doesn't let the rings set properly as it doesn't wear the cylinders enough.

It looks like it's from the 90's, but somewhere in that mess it says how to break it in.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm