The riddle of my vibrations

[Alucard136]

Hi guys.

I been posting about this problem before but im still totally lost.

I got an a4 2.0tfsi quattro s-line 2006 with vibrations between 60 - 75 mph which i been having for the past 9000 miles. The vibrations comes mostly in the steering wheel making the wheel bounce up and down, sometimes a lot, sometimes less. Sometimes i feel the vibrations in the driver seat, the floor and the gas pedal. It feels like when the wheels are out of balance but worse. Like something is spinning or moving up and down in an unbalanced way.

There are no sound of something being wrong. There are no problems more than the vibrations. The car runs perfect in every way.

It doesn't get any worse even though i been driving with it for some time now, almost a year hoping to get some sound or anything so i can track it down.

The vibrations doesn't change with rpm, its always between 60 -75 regardless what gear i'm in.

I'm experiencing that the vibrations are worse if the car haven't been driven for a couple of days.

I'm experiencing that the vibrations gets better when i'm turning the wheel a little bit in any direction, e.g. driving in a long easy bend on the highway.

I can't related the start of the vibrations to any specific event, i haven't hit anything or something like that. It just started one day.


What i done so far:

Tried two different sets of new tiers.
Tried two different sets of rims, one of them is new.
Balanced the wheels 5000 times at different places with different machines
Had two different Audi dealerships look under the car, found nothing
Had a indy mec check all the control arms and such, found nothing
Checked the same things myself, found nothing more than that my snub mount is starting to look old. The rubber in the control arms doesn't even look old.
Checked the wheel bearings, looks fine. No play.

Going to do a wheel alignment next week otherwise i'm out of ideas and really need some help.

[headbang]

[Biged243]

It still can be your wheel bearings. I have replaced some that had no play on them till it was off the car, and it wasn't side to side play it just spun way too easy.

[Alucard136]

But should the wheel bearings not make a sound or get worse by now? Might as well change them, seams like easy work

[kegobeer]

But should the wheel bearings not make a sound or get worse by now? Might as well change them, seams like easy work

Usually, but not always. They can also be responsible for clunk noises when there is no direct evidence of a bad bearing.

[Alucard136]

I see, well i got no noise or any other indication of something being wrong. But the weel bearing explenation is the most likely. When i have the vibrations it kind of feels like the enthier front i wobbling.

Since i only have a garage lift, no power tools an limited working space on the sides of the car in the garage. What is the easiest things to change, the whole hub or just the bearing?

[BenMTL]

I had a similar issue, it ended up being a CV joint/boot.

It wasn't completely broken but it wiggled a bit when you grabbed it with your hand and tried to move it. They shouldn't move at all with hand force from when I understand and that's all it takes to cause vibrations at high speeds (I had none at lower speeds).

While your getting an alignment and the car is lifted, check your own CV joins by grabbing them [:)]

I don't think bearings could cause vibrations without also causing the typical dead bearing sound when turning left or right, so if you don't hear it...

[Alucard136]

I'm planning on doing oil change this week so i can jack it up and have a look at the cv joint then. Did you end up changing the entire cv? What kind of job is it?

[fly300kts]

I'm planning on doing oil change this week so i can jack it up and have a look at the cv joint then. Did you end up changing the entire cv? What kind of job is it?

Stick with OEM if you replace the Axle

Phil

[kegobeer]

Stick with OEM if you replace the Axle

Phil

The Raxles reman axles are good quality, I highly recommend them.

[fly300kts]

The Raxles reman axles are good quality, I highly recommend them.

Indeed but like I said, they are OEM. The OP is in Sweden so I doubt he will order them on this side of the pond

Phil

[kegobeer]

Indeed but like I said, they are OEM. The OP is in Sweden so I doubt he will order them on this side of the pond

Phil

Oh yeah, I totally forgot he's in Sweden. He can probably get them much cheaper than the prices we pay for those items. When I lived in The Netherlands I found prices on OEM parts were pretty damn cheap for my BMW.

[Alucard136]

Yeah, OEM is really cheap to import from Germany.

To check for play in the cv, do i just pull the metal shaft with my hand or is there anything else i should pull or check?

From what i found, the easiest thing to do i just to replace the complete axle?

Anyone have the part number for a complete axle, both left and right side?

[Alucard136]

Found a play in my right cv joint so im going to buy a used cv axle. Is it recomended that i change anything on the used axle prio install or use anything new? Thinking about the rings on the part that goes in to the wheel or the bolt under the center cap? Is any special tools requierd that i most likley dont have?

[kegobeer]

I'm pretty sure there's a DIY around somewhere on replacing a CV axle. That should answer your questions.

[allstock]

Found a play in my right cv joint so im going to buy a used cv axle. Is it recomended that i change anything on the used axle prio install or use anything new? Thinking about the rings on the part that goes in to the wheel or the bolt under the center cap? Is any special tools requierd that i most likley dont have?

To save yourself time, you don't have to undo your suspension. You can get the axles out when your spindles are turned full lock.
You're going to need a breaker bar and proper torx bits.

[Alucard136]

Yepp. Found phils diy :)

[Alucard136]

Alright i replaced my super broken cv axle and there is a hugh difference but i still have some vibrations over 60mph. What could this be? It clearly changed with the axle replacement.

And what is the nm for the big bolt in the middle of the wheel and for the 10mm on the cv boot?

And one last question, both my cv axles have a very small play. I can push them like a couple of mm in to the joint. Is this normal?

[Endmass]

Alright i replaced my super broken cv axle and there is a hugh difference but i still have some vibrations over 60mph. What could this be? It clearly changed with the axle replacement.

And what is the nm for the big bolt in the middle of the wheel and for the 10mm on the cv boot?

And one last question, both my cv axles have a very small play. I can push them like a couple of mm in to the joint. Is this normal?

-They should have in/out play, but not loose. little to no rotational play. They need in/out play to function properly.

-Axle nut is 140 ft/lbs + 180 degrees, and is one-time use (190Nm?)

-CV nuts are 40.5 ft/lbs (55Nm) and I would use red loctite or vibratite

[Alucard136]

Then they should be fine.

Then they axle nut needs some more torque, it has about 150 nm now.

I torque the cv nuts right but i reused the oem ones with no new locktite.

Since the axle decresed the vibrations. What should i check out next?

[Alucard136]

My vibrations now have a new personality. Everything runs perfect til 60 mph. Between 60 - 70 the wheel shakes. 70 + the wheel almost stop shaking and the entier car starts to shake. Especially the driver and passanger seats. In some speeds i expericing a metalic sound of something spinning or humming, another description of the sound is that its sounds like spinning metal hiting other metal.

Any ideas before i go insane?

[kegobeer]

Wheel bearings.

[Alucard136]

Next thing to change then. Do i need a press to get the bearings in the hub or should i buy a complete bearing and hub?

[italia8287]

What mileage are you at?

[Alucard136]

About 130 000 km / 80 780 miles so not very much

[Alucard136]

**** and ass!
I just change my front wheel bearings. Found one with play in. No change, still vibrations over 60 mph.
what should i look for next?

I have done since the vibes started:
1000 wheel balance
2 set of tiers
2 set of rims
several shops have checked control arms and such
New oil and filter
new dv
Bsh pcv revamp
new wheel bearings
new right drive shaft, found play in old one. Left feels fine.

Dont know if this has anything to do with my vibes but i notice that on cool starts the engine vibriates a lot, i can feel it in my seat. Still vibrates a little when warm.
when i drive at constant low speed, say 4 gear and 30 mph the car feels like its jumping forward and dont run smoth, the rpm is stable.

[kegobeer]

Check your engine and transmission mounts.

[Alucard136]

Will do, is there a specific way to do that or is it just a visual inspection? I know my snubmount is looking kind of old.

[Sanjman]

Take pics please inspect them the motor mounts if stock will be leaking if bad.

[BenMTL]

Was gonna say mounts as well.

Could the rear tranny mount cause vibrations?

[Alucard136]

Im going down to the car now to fix some other stuff. Will bring back pics!
Thanks to all of you for the help, would be lost without you.

[Alucard136]

http://i62.tinypic.com/2n9wd9x.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/330fluu.jpg


http://i62.tinypic.com/65zm0j.jpg

http://i58.tinypic.com/j16a8m.jpg
http://i57.tinypic.com/sfxdl2.jpg
http://i61.tinypic.com/1601ukp.jpg

[Alucard136]

The liquid on the mounts are coolant since i were fixing a leak.
from what i can see the rubber at my snub mount is worn and perhaps the tranny mount, there are small marks in the rubber.
my mounts does not seem to have liquid in them, there are at least no sensor for it

[Alucard136]

And, holding both my hands around the pcv area, i can push the engien back and forth with not very much power at all. Normal or not?

[kegobeer]

I've found that loosening the engine mounts, then tightening the top bolts to spec, then starting the engine and letting it idle for a few minutes and then torquing the bottom nuts, does wonders for eliminating vibrations. Give that a shot.

[Alucard136]

Thanks. Will give it a shot tomorrow. Any opinions on my tranny mount?

More than vibrations over 60, jumping in low speed im expericing some kind of sound, like something spinning unbalanced or baging up and down. Vibrations vary between constant and a oscillating feeling. Steering wheel moving side to side when vibrating.

[Alucard136]

Could vibrations be related to plugs and coils or would that show itself with unstable rpm?

[Muggerrudd]

time for a new snub mount^^^ holycracks!

[Alucard136]

Yes, i know. Been holding it of since they are expensive in sweden and costums fron us kills the deal. About 140 usd for a snub mount is not fun ;)

[BenMTL]

1) No, I don't think vibrations (only at higher speeds) could be related to plugs and coils....But if they are older and it is cheap in Sweden, I would do it anyway just in case. Who knows?

2) Your engine mounts look dry. But I would do what kego suggested to see if adjusting your engine mounts (while engine is idling) can offset the vibrations.

3) Your snub mount is fine. For $50 even I would maybe change it, but not for $150. It likely isn't causing your vibrations at high speeds either....If cheap, maybe replace with OEM from local dealer? OEM should be maybe $30-50 and can be replaced in under 30min.

[Alucard136]

Thanks for your answer Ben. I started to think about the coils because of the jumping i fell i low speeds, with jumping i mean when i drive around 30 mph the car is jumping forward. Rpm and such are still stable. Plugs were replaced around 20k miles ago so its time again.

Will try to adjust the mounts, got swamped at work. I will do a video of the vibrations, maybe that can help in pinpointing the problem.

[Alucard136]

I've found that loosening the engine mounts, then tightening the top bolts to spec, then starting the engine and letting it idle for a few minutes and then torquing the bottom nuts, does wonders for eliminating vibrations. Give that a shot.

Just tried this. I did only release the nuts which are directly on the mounts, or should i have loosend the entier bracket? I also released the snub mount bracket . Unfortunately i did not release the top nut on the right side. What kind of tool do i need to get down there?

Drove it for a short run, it still vibrates as hell but im expericing that there are some kind of change. Over 70 i belive it felt better than before. What do you guys make of this? Possible broken mounts?

One other thing, the rear cv shaft on a quattro. Do they work the same way as the front and do i check them for problems same way? Just thought of that i never done that.

[BenMTL]

Just tried this. I did only release the nuts which are directly on the mounts, or should i have loosend the entier bracket? I also released the snub mount bracket . Unfortunately i did not release the top nut on the right side. What kind of tool do i need to get down there?

Drove it for a short run, it still vibrates as hell but im expericing that there are some kind of change. Over 70 i belive it felt better than before. What do you guys make of this? Possible broken mounts?

One other thing, the rear cv shaft on a quattro. Do they work the same way as the front and do i check them for problems same way? Just thought of that i never done that.


1) Only loosening the 2 top (big bolts) and running the engine in idle (maybe give a little gas too) should settle it down. You didn't drive the car with the engine not fully bolted down did you?!

2) If it is a little better, doesn't mean your engine mounts are the problem. Adjusting them could maybe just offset the problem. I know some B7s have engine mount sensors...do you see a wire connected to your engine mounts? Mine doesn't though. If they don't either but aren't leaking, they are probably OK.

3) Good question about rear cv joint/shaft....I don't know but check for play in ALL the rear suspension/drive components just in case....Theoretically, you shouldn't be able to move them around too much by grabbing them with your hand and shuffling them around.

[Alucard136]

1) No, didnt drive it. Just idle.

2) no sensors and never been any visual leaks that i know of.

3) will do. This jumping thing i been feeling lately at low speeds. It feels like the car is bounching from the back (only feel it in my seat) and only occurs around 30 mph, then nothing until 60 mph were the steering wheel goes apeshit and everything shakes. Only other faults i have are a little rough idel and a small oil leak at the valve cover.

Bad or destroyed cam follower, could it cause vibrations? Pretty sure its... never been changed


Will look in the back tomorrow.

[Alucard136]

Been doing some more driving. After the mount adjustment it viberates a bit less and over 85 mph i only feel the vibrations in the drivers seat. Not the steering wheel.

Im thinking could this be something with the brakes? 1 year ago i changed all pads and the front rotors to zimmerman sport, the back rotors are oem. Vibrations started about 2 moths later. If i drive in say 65 mph and push the brake while holding the gas to maintain speed the vibration continus but get worse and the entier car starts to viberate. If i apply handbrake in same speed nothing happens but if i apply handbrake while driving in 30 mph were the car jumps foward, im expericing that everything goes smother and the jumping stops. Could i have something here or i am just desperate?

[yeoj112689]

Thanks. Will give it a shot tomorrow. Any opinions on my tranny mount?

More than vibrations over 60, jumping in low speed im expericing some kind of sound, like something spinning unbalanced or baging up and down. Vibrations vary between constant and a oscillating feeling. Steering wheel moving side to side when vibrating.

I have been having the exact issues are you with the same exact year car specs and milage!

Check your upper control arms :D

mine are torn a bit but no one noticed it, not even the dealer....

http://theyeoj.com/offtopic/upper-control-arm-1.JPG
http://theyeoj.com/offtopic/upper-control-arm-2.JPG

[Alucard136]

Yes. I saw you thread and were planning on posting some pics of my control arms :). I dont know anything about control arms, so that little pice of lost rubber, does that make it torn?

[drumnjuny]

yeah if the rubber bushing is torn, the control arm is shot [up]

[Alucard136]

Allright, then i will have friday fun posting pics of my control arms tomorrow ;). If i remember correctly the bushing for one of my upper control arms looks like a bent donut

[yeoj112689]

Allright, then i will have friday fun posting pics of my control arms tomorrow ;). If i remember correctly the bushing for one of my upper control arms looks like a bent donut

I would say there is a good chance that maybe your problem :D

[Alucard136]

So while waiting to get a chance to check my control arms im looking at new control arm kits. Choosing between mapco and febi. Does it justify paying twice as much for febi or should i run with mapco?

[audi5inline]

You dont have to buy a complete control arm, you can also press out the old bushing and fit a new one.

[Alucard136]

I know. I was thinkig that i might as well. Relly want to eliminate the vibrations and changing all control arms and tie rods would cross that of the list.

[yeoj112689]

I know. I was thinkig that i might as well. Relly want to eliminate the vibrations and changing all control arms and tie rods would cross that of the list.

Look up FCP control arm kit. Cost 300 dollars and comes with literally everything you need, uppers, lowers, tie rods, sway links etc. All new bolts as well and after reading a ton of reviews i believe this is what ill be getting as well.

[Alucard136]

Thanks for the tip, will check them out. Thats about the same price as the mapco, febi is twice as much. Thought febi bilstein were top notch but i find very mixed reviews. Im stuck with the wife so my control arms is still unchecked

[Alucard136]

Fcp looks great. Think im going to go with them. Lemfröder which makes oem looks great as well but expensiv. About 1050 usd ink shipping

[Alucard136]

Well guys, got a chance to go down to the car and i think we found my cause of vibrations.

All my upper and lower control arms are shot. Here's some pictures we can enjoy. Interesting that two Audi shops and some indy's didn't find this. Sure, it must have been less damaged when they had the car but still...

Upper, left side
http://i60.tinypic.com/5n5h6d.jpg
http://i58.tinypic.com/263xxeh.jpg

One of the lower left side
http://i57.tinypic.com/2qlwsv9.jpg

One of the upper and lower right side
http://i62.tinypic.com/hu155v.jpg
http://i57.tinypic.com/2dvjscj.jpg

[audi5inline]

original ? how many km's ?,
Dont forget to tighten the new control arms with the wheels on the ground or you will get the same problem

[kegobeer]

original ? how many km's ?,
Dont forget to tighten the new control arms with the wheels on the ground or you will get the same problem

I jack up the suspension while the wheels are off to the proper ride height, since it's tough to torque down the bolts when the wheels are on.

[Alucard136]

Its original with about 80k miles / 130 000 km.
Im planing on going with fcp and leave it to a shop, allmost everything in my wheel area is frozen stuck and it dosnt seem like fun work to dp on jackstands with no power tools. A serious mec should be able to change control arms without ruin everything or should i do it myself?

[yeoj112689]

Its original with about 80k miles / 130 000 km.
Im planing on going with fcp and leave it to a shop, allmost everything in my wheel area is frozen stuck and it dosnt seem like fun work to dp on jackstands with no power tools. A serious mec should be able to change control arms without ruin everything or should i do it myself?

I am at about the same milage and I am going to do it myself, shouldn't be too hard. There are a lot of guides on here. Glad we both found our problems and glad I could help ya :D

[kegobeer]

I am at about the same milage and I am going to do it myself, shouldn't be too hard. There are a lot of guides on here. Glad we both found our problems and glad I could help ya :D

Yeah, it's not hard at all - the only real issues are stuck bolts/nuts. The actual replacing is simple, it just takes time. I did my entire front suspension over the course of a couple of days, working an hour or two as I had time.

[Alucard136]

Its the stuck bolts that scare me. Last time i did work around the wheels a had to drill the t30 for the rotor, slam on the rotor for a day and cracked the bolt holding upper arms. I relly need power tools... but right now im low on budget so it would be cheaper to leave it to a shop than buying some good tools. Thaks a lot yejo. Hopefully i get the arms this month. I get back with updates :)

Hm, after looking at some diy's it does seem pretty easy if nothing is frozen. I got to try it myself at least once.

[yeoj112689]

Its the stuck bolts that scare me. Last time i did work around the wheels a had to drill the t30 for the rotor, slam on the rotor for a day and cracked the bolt holding upper arms. I relly need power tools... but right now im low on budget so it would be cheaper to leave it to a shop than buying some good tools. Thaks a lot yejo. Hopefully i get the arms this month. I get back with updates :)

Hm, after looking at some diy's it does seem pretty easy if nothing is frozen. I got to try it myself at least once.

I have a snap-on impact ratchet that wrecks bolts :D should be easy enough. I would say you could come over but you are kinda in a whole separate country.

[Alucard136]

After looking at the videos from fcp im confident i can do it. Worse case senario will be a broken off bolt i have to drill.
you can come to me, i have beer... and whiskey. ;) talked to fcp and will order option 3 from the group buy

[Alucard136]

Do anyone have the torque specs for upper and lower control arms and the nut for the tie rod? I will just thighten everythin then torque once the car is on the ground, correct? Any tips when torqueing, seems very thight on those upper arms?

[kegobeer]

Do anyone have the torque specs for upper and lower control arms and the nut for the tie rod? I will just thighten everythin then torque once the car is on the ground, correct? Any tips when torqueing, seems very thight on those upper arms?

I torque while the suspension is under load, by raising the suspension up to riding height using a floor jack. I find there's not enough room to work when the wheel is on and it's on the ground.

[Alucard136]

A good idea. Thanks man. Does anyone have the torque specs explainde to a stupid man? Have haynes manual but they have different words for everything.

[yeoj112689]

After looking at the videos from fcp im confident i can do it. Worse case senario will be a broken off bolt i have to drill.
you can come to me, i have beer... and whiskey. ;) talked to fcp and will order option 3 from the group buy

can you provide a link to the option you are buying?

[Alucard136]

Here:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/577077-FCP-Control-Arm-Group-Buy-(NEW-AND-IMPROVED)

[yeoj112689]

Here:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/577077-FCP-Control-Arm-Group-Buy-(NEW-AND-IMPROVED)

Well that just saved me a hundred or so :D

[Alucard136]

Yes :) im just wating for my paycheck, will order the 23 dec.

[yeoj112689]

Yes :) im just wating for my paycheck, will order the 23 dec.

I'm am waiting for the exact date for the same reason lolol

[Alucard136]

;)
You will get them before me tough so it will be your job to tell me about the pitfalls i should avoid ;)

I will post a pics of the torque specs from the haynes manual tomorrow. I need someone to explain in detail which bolts are which according to haynes poor explanation. Don't want to torque stuff wrong.

[yeoj112689]

;)
You will get them before me tough so it will be your job to tell me about the pitfalls i should avoid ;)

I will post a pics of the torque specs from the haynes manual tomorrow. I need someone to explain in detail which bolts are which according to haynes poor explanation. Don't want to torque stuff wrong.

I have a haynes manual but if someone wants to post pics of the bentley manual I sure wouldnt complain :D

[Alucard136]

http://i62.tinypic.com/rlxbag.jpg

Here are the torque specs from haynes.
Could someone explain to me wich are the torque specs for the following cause i dont get their names for things

Bolts for upper control arms, the bolts furthes away from me, closest to the suspension.

Lower control arms left and right, the bolt holding the arm behind the rotor and the one on the other side.

The three bolts holding the suspension and the buttom bolt

Bolts for sway bar end links and tie rod

Just tell me which ones are what, please

[Alucard136]

Found something here

http://i57.tinypic.com/2ywamoj.jpg

Torque specs as referencing the numbered parts on the diagram posted as follows:
1: 75Nm
5: 7Nm
7: 45Nm
8: 40Nm
12: 70Nm and turn 180 degrees further
14: 110Nm
17: 10Nm
20: 90Nm
22: 55Nm
23: 110Nm and turn 90 degrees further
24 & 26: 40Nm and turn 90 degrees further
28: 70Nm and turn 180 degrees further
29: 75Nm
33: Pretighten to 15Nm, then M8=40Nm and M10=70Nm
37: 50Nm and turn 90 degrees further
38: 50Nm

In this trend they say its for a a4 3.0 2004, is it the same for b7?

http://www.audiforum.ca/a4-b6-typ-8e-8h-2001%C2%962005-76/torque-specs-upper-lower-controll-arms-65205/

[yeoj112689]

Found something here

http://i57.tinypic.com/2ywamoj.jpg

Torque specs as referencing the numbered parts on the diagram posted as follows:
1: 75Nm
5: 7Nm
7: 45Nm
8: 40Nm
12: 70Nm and turn 180 degrees further
14: 110Nm
17: 10Nm
20: 90Nm
22: 55Nm
23: 110Nm and turn 90 degrees further
24 & 26: 40Nm and turn 90 degrees further
28: 70Nm and turn 180 degrees further
29: 75Nm
33: Pretighten to 15Nm, then M8=40Nm and M10=70Nm
37: 50Nm and turn 90 degrees further
38: 50Nm

In this trend they say its for a a4 3.0 2004, is it the same for b7?

http://www.audiforum.ca/a4-b6-typ-8e-8h-2001%C2%962005-76/torque-specs-upper-lower-controll-arms-65205/

That looks semi close to ours if not the same but I don't trust random guessing lol.

Also I ordered my parts today and they are shipped within a few mins of me ordering! The people over at FCP are amazing and they are fast. I am very impressed, lately I have ran across a few great vendors and the fact that they lifetime warranty their parts... Lets just say I am a fan :D I am supposed to get them on the 24th according to FCP and the tracking number... even on christmas eve they have amazingly fast shipping.

[Alucard136]

Oh, they still haven't awnser my order by mail.
They said the torque specs are from a audi thec manual. Seen it at several trends here at audizine so it should be accurate

[yeoj112689]

Oh, they still haven't awnser my order by mail.
They said the torque specs are from a audi thec manual. Seen it at several trends here at audizine so it should be accurate

My parts are supposed to be here today :D Merry Christmas!

[Alucard136]

Mine are shipped now as well. Fcp is great to do business with. Please go back here an tell me how it went for you, and which tourqe specs you used ;) since i live in sweden it will take about 2 weeks before i get them

[yeoj112689]

Mine are shipped now as well. Fcp is great to do business with. Please go back here an tell me how it went for you, and which tourqe specs you used ;) since i live in sweden it will take about 2 weeks before i get them

Santa came a day early :D Give it up for FCP they shipped my order near instantly and I got it 2 days later free shipping on christmas eve... pretty impressive!

I am most likely going to install it all Sunday and get my alignment Monday before work. I would do it right now but I have to drive a lot and good luck getting an alignment on christmas day haha

http://www.theyeoj.com/offtopic/fcp-control-arm-kit.JPG

[Alucard136]

They do look nice. Cant wait to get mine.
tell me, when changing the entier tie rod. I just push it out of the knuckle, remove the rubber boot then i remove the entier tie rod from the back and when i do so i count the turns to get it near my alignment?

[yeoj112689]

They do look nice. Cant wait to get mine.
tell me, when changing the entier tie rod. I just push it out of the knuckle, remove the rubber boot then i remove the entier tie rod from the back and when i do so i count the turns to get it near my alignment?

I would disconnect your old one, compare it to the new one and adjust it to the old one as best you can then get an alignment ASAP. I plan on getting my alignment done the same day if not the next before work.

[Alucard136]

You mean i lay them side by side and then adjust the new one so i becomes about the same length? Im very impresst by fcp. Usually it takes 2-3 weeks for me to get stuff from the us when i been using ebay. Its been 2 days and my control arms are allready in germany

[yeoj112689]

You mean i lay them side by side and then adjust the new one so i becomes about the same length? Im very impresst by fcp. Usually it takes 2-3 weeks for me to get stuff from the us when i been using ebay. Its been 2 days and my control arms are allready in germany

Yes I am going to look more into it but since they are full tie rods and not just outers i would adjust it close as possible to you current and then get your car to the shop for an alignment before you drive it (no point in ruining new parts :D) and make sure to torque the torque the bolts after you drop the car or some people jack the axle up but idk about that

[Alucard136]

Good, yes my plan is the same as yours ;)

[yeoj112689]

Good, yes my plan is the same as yours ;)

I did the thread thing and it worked fine. Steers fine enough to get it to the shop for the alignment.

outside of the job sucking ass its all done and the parts fit perfectly :D have fun lol

[B7Audi2.0T]

Hello, don't usually post around here (I do read a lot) but I have to say THANK YOU to you guys. I am having the exact same issue with my car, vibrations between 60-70MPH. My mechanic told me it might be related to transmission, but I frankly didn't believe it. Even the mechanic wasn't sure (he let me know that he wasn't sure).

I did replace the engine mounts and both axles already (they needed replacements anyways).

It has to be the control arms. I am going to get in contact with my mechanic next Monday and get these parts order, then schedule the install.

Will post back after the job is done.

Thanks again! and happy new years!

[yeoj112689]

Hello, don't usually post around here (I do read a lot) but I have to say THANK YOU to you guys. I am having the exact same issue with my car, vibrations between 60-70MPH. My mechanic told me it might be related to transmission, but I frankly didn't believe it. Even the mechanic wasn't sure (he let me know that he wasn't sure).

I did replace the engine mounts and both axles already (they needed replacements anyways).

It has to be the control arms. I am going to get in contact with my mechanic next Monday and get these parts order, then schedule the install.

Will post back after the job is done.

Thanks again! and happy new years!

Glad we could help! Good luck and let us know. Replace the uppers, lowers, sway links, and full tie rods while youre at it. most everything was shot together.

[Alucard136]

My arms form fcp arrived today. It's going to be a fun weekend ;) I must say, their handling and shipping were very fast, especially compared to ebays international shipping program which takes 2-3 weeks.

Another fun thing about ebay shipping center, got a package from the US a couple of days ago contain mirrors for a Mustang. Turns out ebay shipping center took some random package and an old invoice with my name on and just shipped it.

[Alucard136]

So, tie rods. Did you just remove the boot and took the tie rod of with a whrench from behind?

[Alucard136]

Just got my fcp kit installed. Feels great but... yeah, my car still vibrates over 60 mph and feels like its jumping forward in 30 mph. It vibrates in steering wheel and gas pedal, no sounds. Steering wheel bouncing side to side. Only related to speed, not rpm.
Now i have no clue what to do and i've put down about 3000 usd to solve it.

What done so far

A lot of wheel balances
2 set of tiers
2 set of rims, one set i new
Front wheel bearings replaced
Right front axle replaced, left is fine
Front suspension replaced expect shocks and springs
Aligned motor mounts
wheel alignment
Changed rear diff fluid

ideas?

[audi5inline]

Can a bad brake disc cause this ?

[Jake@JHM]

Can a bad brake disc cause this ?

Pad deposits can cause a pulsation when braking. Often times it is misconceived as a "warped rotor".

[Alucard136]

Yes i been thinking about the brakes as well, mostly because the vibrations occurred 1-2 month after the dealership put in new Zimmerman rotors in the front and new pads front and back. My back rotors are old, oem since i bought the car in 2011. So they done at lest 30k. But the vibrations do not get worse nor stops when breaking. If it were something with the brakes, wouldn't it affect the vibrations when i brake? Still its potential a bad rotor give me the feel that im jumping forward at 30 mph, but that only occurs around the random speed of 28-32 then it stops. When the vibrations comes it feels like something spinning or bouncing in the gas pedal.

[billyhoyle]

Could a failing dual mass flywheel cause vibrations?

Edit: my googling skills tell me that it's possible

[Alucard136]

Yes, i have a theory about theory about that too. But i think that should be making a sound and vibrations in the floor. Isn't flywheel related to rpm? As long as im over 60 mph, it doesn't matter if i'm at 1500 rpm or 5000 rpm.
I have a friend with a bmw 330 were the flywheel is broken, it has a play in it. Makes a horrible sound and the either car vibrates almost all the time.


Btw, i love your avatar

[Jake@JHM]

Could a failing dual mass flywheel cause vibrations?

Edit: my googling skills tell me that it's possible

Yes, the B6-B7 S4 are notorious for failing dual mass flywheels and the B7 A4 has been known to have this issue as well! That is why going with our JHM Clutch Combo is not just an upgrade, it is also preventative maintenance [up]

[billyhoyle]

Yes, i have a theory about theory about that too. But i think that should be making a sound and vibrations in the floor. Isn't flywheel related to rpm? As long as im over 60 mph, it doesn't matter if i'm at 1500 rpm or 5000 rpm.
I have a friend with a bmw 330 were the flywheel is broken, it has a play in it. Makes a horrible sound and the either car vibrates almost all the time.


Btw, i love your avatar

Ahh yes, it would definitely be rpm related, so scratch that.

And thanks, my avatar still makes me laugh.

[Sanjman]

Yes, the B6-B7 S4 are notorious for failing dual mass flywheels and the B7 A4 has been known to have this issue as well! That is why going with our JHM Clutch Combo is not just an upgrade, it is also preventative maintenance [up]

Did you learn about product placement from the Truman Show?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6U4-KZSoe6g

[Alucard136]

Now i have studded tiers and no snow so my car is pretty load but when i drive over 60 mph i think im expericing a sound of something bagging when spinning uneven. The viberations and the potential sound seems to come from the front.

I've allready inpected my left cv axle, it have no play and the rubber boots are fine but could it still be something wrong with that axle or should i just cross it of my list?

Also, even tough i just got an alignment done, during the vibrations the car feels unstable and moves about on the road. During highway speed i have to correct it all the time. Still if i let go off the wheel the car doesnt pull in any direction

This is ass

[audi5inline]

Have you checked the subframes bushes/bolts ?

[Alucard136]

No, never inspected them carefully. Just done other work in those areas and never notice anything. Will check them out next time i lift the car. I check them the same way as other stuff, make sure the bolts are tight and the bushes are free from cracks?

I really appreciate all the tips, would be lost without you guys

[yeoj112689]

Now i have studded tiers and no snow so my car is pretty load but when i drive over 60 mph i think im expericing a sound of something bagging when spinning uneven. The viberations and the potential sound seems to come from the front.

I've allready inpected my left cv axle, it have no play and the rubber boots are fine but could it still be something wrong with that axle or should i just cross it of my list?

Also, even tough i just got an alignment done, during the vibrations the car feels unstable and moves about on the road. During highway speed i have to correct it all the time. Still if i let go off the wheel the car doesnt pull in any direction

This is ass

By moving do you mean its kicking out? Check your wheel bearings. This could cause it to kick out while driving.

[Alucard136]

Exactly. The car feels unstable when vibrating and i have to correct the steering wheel. Front wheel bearings are allready replaced. Found one bad but it dident cause the vibrations :(

[audiphila]

Could a failing dual mass flywheel cause vibrations?

Edit: my googling skills tell me that it's possible

My B6 avant had that issue. Replaced dual mass flywheel and it was solved for vibrations at idle. Also had a bad wheel hub that would make vibrations at speed.

[Alucard136]

My B6 avant had that issue. Replaced dual mass flywheel and it was solved for vibrations at idle. Also had a bad wheel hub that would make vibrations at speed.

Please do describe your experience with the bad flywheel more so i can see if it match my problem. How much did it vibrate when idle and did it vibrate anything when driving?

[Jeller]

Now i have studded tiers and no snow so my car is pretty load but when i drive over 60 mph i think im expericing a sound of something bagging when spinning uneven. The viberations and the potential sound seems to come from the front.

I've allready inpected my left cv axle, it have no play and the rubber boots are fine but could it still be something wrong with that axle or should i just cross it of my list?

Also, even tough i just got an alignment done, during the vibrations the car feels unstable and moves about on the road. During highway speed i have to correct it all the time. Still if i let go off the wheel the car doesnt pull in any direction

This is ass

When I had my studded Nokian snows on my avant I hated driving on them in wet weather, studded tires on wet pavement is not a comfortable feeling, especially on concrete roads.

[Alucard136]

True. Studded tiers without the snow is no fun.
i read in a trend here at audizine about vibrations comming from the steering rack. Could that be something? Is there any way to inspect or test the steeringrack?

[yeoj112689]

True. Studded tiers without the snow is no fun.
i read in a trend here at audizine about vibrations comming from the steering rack. Could that be something? Is there any way to inspect or test the steeringrack?

Is the vibration side to side? up and down? Need a a bit more details. Does it happen worse when you hit the brakes?

Few things off the top of my head would be

rotors/pads (or a stuck caliper)
wheels are bad (tires or wheel bent)
When you replaced the steering did you do the full tie rods?
Alignment off (shops mess up)
motor mounts
axles (although I think you ruled this out)

I have heard of the axles coming out a bit but normally I guess it causes a no movement problem.

When is the last time you did you rear transfer case oil?

Do you feel the vibration in the pedals/steering wheel/other? Or is it just darting back in forth? Check your sway bars as well.

[Alucard136]

It feels like its from side to side. Over the year i had the vibrations they been showing themselves in different ways. Always comming in the steeringwheel, then sometimes in the floor and seats as well. The last time its only side to side in steering wheel and vibrations in the gas pedal during steering wheel vibration but after i reach 100-110 mph the steering wheel stops to vibrate and insteed floor and driver seat starts to viberate, it feels like a kid is kicking the seat or like a massage chair. Feels like its comming from the front when its in the steering wheel and gas.

Could be brakes but the vibrations does not change during brakeing and brakeing feels normal. Will change pads and rotors anyway

2 set of different tiers and wheels. The vibrations stays the same

Full tie roads done

I post alignment info today

Motor mounts is a possiblity. I did inspect and align them which help a little. Snub mount is bad but the motor mounts seems ok, no leaks from what i can see

Yeah, i had a broke axle which i replaced. The other axle i cant find anything wrong with.

Oil in the rear diff were changed around 300 miles ago

[audiphila]

Please do describe your experience with the bad flywheel more so i can see if it match my problem. How much did it vibrate when idle and did it vibrate anything when driving?

Engine would shake and vibrate so much you could feel it through the steering wheel. Pretty much whole front of car vibrates like massage chair.

[Alucard136]

Always or in certain speeds? Related to rpm or only speed?

[Alucard136]

These vibrations are really wierd. Drove it quit long on the highway today. The vibrations occur in different places depending on speed. Starting at 60 in steering wheel and gas pedal. Around 80-90 mph it almost stop vibrating in the wheel and insteed gas pedal, floor and seat. At that speed you cant see the steering wheel vibrating, only feel it.

I dont know if the vibrations changes when i let go of the gas or brake. It do feel like the vibrations are changing when i turn in highway speed, like a long right.

This puzzle drives me mad

[B44]

check your tie rods. also check your steering column rack. mine did the same it had been solved by adjusting the the tie rods and alignment. also it can be a bent alloy wheel so look out for that

[Alucard136]

Allready replace complete tie rods and rims. The steering rack is an idea. Is there anyway to test the rack or inspect without removing tierods to get it out?

[yeoj112689]

I would get the wheels rebalanced before anything else. I throw weights ALL THE FUCKING TIME :(

[Alucard136]

I do trow weight pretty much once a year, but i did balance 2 month ago and before that during the summer when i tested tiers and rims. Its not the wheels :/

What are there to check out in the back? Its so weird the vibrations moving from the front to the back depending on who fast im going. If im going 80 mph almost everything comes in the floor and sear feeling from behind.
Is it a possibility that bad brakes could be causing this?


I've found a new shop i trust, planning on letting them have a look instead of trowing more part at it. Everything we found have been broken but not the cause.

[Alucard136]

Tomorrow im going to examine my car again. When checking out the subframe, im planing on releaseing the subframe bolts and re tourqe them. Is that a good idea? I read somewhere that those bolts should be replaced if relased.

[kegobeer]

Those are stretch bolts, so yes you are supposed to replace them.

[Alucard136]

Thanks. Then i will replace them. Anyone have the tourqe specs for the 4 bolts going in to the bushings in the sub frame. I only have haynes and dont trust them

[Alucard136]

Did a quick inspection of my rare rotors and noticed uneven wear on both sides. I can feel how there are "hills" on the surface of the rotors. I dont feel anything wrong while brakeing but could this cause vibrations over 60 mph?

[yeoj112689]

Did a quick inspection of my rare rotors and noticed uneven wear on both sides. I can feel how there are "hills" on the surface of the rotors. I dont feel anything wrong while brakeing but could this cause vibrations over 60 mph?

sure could!

[Alucard136]

All right. More stuff to change ;) What is average life of a rear rotor in miles? The pads are about 1 year old/ 20 000 km. Should i change them too while im at it?

Last spring i changed all my pads and front rotors to zimmerman sport but keept the rear oem rotors. Around 2 months after that the vibrations started. Could it be that my old rotors messed up my pads or my new pads messed up my rotor? The dealer did the work.

[marlboro]

sure could!

How exactly would that affect it? Can you provide any logical explanation?

To me it seems like the original problem is somewhere else and the uneven rear rotors and more of an effect of it than the cause. E.g. he brakes with vibrations already on and that causes uneven rotors.



All right. More stuff to change ;) What is average life of a rear rotor in miles? The pads are about 1 year old/ 20 000 km. Should i change them too while im at it?

Last spring i changed all my pads and front rotors to zimmerman sport but keept the rear oem rotors. Around 2 months after that the vibrations started. Could it be that my old rotors messed up my pads or my new pads messed up my rotor? The dealer did the work.

Why do you keep throwing money at the problem? You are not solving anything so far but wasting money. From your explanations and the parts replaced so far, this seems to be a more complicated issue. Rather spend the time to find out who is the best Audi mechanic around you (even if you have to take it to another town/city, etc.) and get someone diagnose the issue properly first.

Issues like that could not be explained properly on the net. This is not a fault code someone might have seen before or even a noise you can post a video of. In your case the issue has to be "felt" and that is not possible over the net.



...or just get a Volvo [:D]

[Sanjman]

Instead of replacing go to a shop that is willing to resurface them... Put them back on and see if the vibration is gone.

[Alucard136]

How exactly would that affect it? Can you provide any logical explanation?

To me it seems like the original problem is somewhere else and the uneven rear rotors and more of an effect of it than the cause. E.g. he brakes with vibrations already on and that causes uneven rotors.




Why do you keep throwing money at the problem? You are not solving anything so far but wasting money. From your explanations and the parts replaced so far, this seems to be a more complicated issue. Rather spend the time to find out who is the best Audi mechanic around you (even if you have to take it to another town/city, etc.) and get someone diagnose the issue properly first.

Issues like that could not be explained properly on the net. This is not a fault code someone might have seen before or even a noise you can post a video of. In your case the issue has to be "felt" and that is not possible over the net.



...or just get a Volvo [:D]

Yes, i have a new found shop that i trust. Just waiting for my paycheck. In the meen time i keep looking and run my ideas through the forum. No need to explain the obvious. Finally, all the parts replaced have been bad so its more of unwilling preventiv maintenance than a total waste.

Will do, sajman.

[billyhoyle]

I hear you - I don't mind throwing some money into my car to replace something that's almost worn out anyway and that might solve a problem. But that's only because I plan to keep this bad boy for quite some time, so the investment is worth it.

[Alucard136]

Exactly. I love my b7 when its not vibrating and i really want to keep it. Another thing, i notice that if i drive harder and give full or near full gas it almost stop vibrating. Like whatever vibrating gets pushed down under load

[magpies14]

mine was replacing both the engine mountings and transmission mountings...... vibrations drops to near nothing.....

[B7Audi2.0T]

After going back and forth between my mechanic, I explained to him that it might be the control arms, he said no way that he had checked it when my car was at the shop blah blah blah...I decided to go for a second opinion. Well, the second opinion, told me the front axles previously replaced in my car (supposedly brand new) were no bueno. He ensured me that replacing the axles will remove all my vibration issues. Sure enough he put a new set of refurbished OEM axles and the car is running 100% now, all vibrations are gone.

Now I am about to call the mechanic who ripped me off on the other axles and see if I can get my money back, I have the bad axles in my trunk and will be driving to his shop and explaining the situation. Very disappointed as I really trusted this mechanic before.

My recommendation, always look for more than 1 opinion.

[Alucard136]

I've already decided to sell my car but i got some new info that could help others. Now after 40 000 km with vibrations, when i drive in 60 + mph, were the vibrations occurs and ease of the gas a sound appers. It sounds like something is baging related to rpm. As the rpm drops, so does the sound. It sound almost like when you have a hole in the exaust but only occur when vibrations are present. Any ideas?

[nac nac]

You replaced one axle but not the other. Diagnosing a bad inner cv can be a bitch. But they can cause weird vibrations. I had one in my small fleet of cars, was so bad the car acted like the front wheel was egg shaped. Since one was bad, I would replace the other axle.

Also, you mentioned uneven brake wear. A sticky caliper will cause vibrations. Check the pistons and pins, or whatever the caliper rides on.

[Alucard136]

If its the left cv axle. Would it not eventually result in a visually broken cv axle, e.g broken bot?

[allstock]

Cheap non Audi axles vibrate.

[Alucard136]

All are oem

[Alucard136]

Allright ladies. I got around to swap my front left cv axle and... that was it. The axle looked to be in perfect condition but once i took it off i saw a massiv play in the inner joint.
so what i learned from this that if i have vibrations not related to wheels, just change the cv axles.

The bad news is that i still have a sligth vibration in steering wheel between 55 - 65 mph. It feels like something spinning in the wheel, just like a bad axle. Could be that the used oem axle i bought is bad. What else could it be? Allready replaced all control arms, tie rods and wheel bearings.

[yeoj112689]

Allright ladies. I got around to swap my front left cv axle and... that was it. The axle looked to be in perfect condition but once i took it off i saw a massiv play in the inner joint.
so what i learned from this that if i have vibrations not related to wheels, just change the cv axles.

The bad news is that i still have a sligth vibration in steering wheel between 55 - 65 mph. It feels like something spinning in the wheel, just like a bad axle. Could be that the used oem axle i bought is bad. What else could it be? Allready replaced all control arms, tie rods and wheel bearings.

balanced and aligned?

[Alucard136]

Yepp, switched to summer tiers and wheels today. Same vibrations. By chaging the axle, all violent vibrstions ive been fighting for 1.5 years is gone. The vibrations that remains feels like an unbalanced wheel or something spinning and is very slight. The vibrations chaging when turning at speed. Thats why i think i got a bad axle. Will try to get a new one and see.

But the car is driveable again :)

[marlboro]

How do you determine massive play in the inner CV? I have removed the outer CV and there is a play in and out on the axle but that seems to be normal to me.

[Alucard136]

If i hold the cv in the shaft and wiggle it, the inner joint moves about. There is allmost no resistance when moving the joint.

[yeoj112689]

Yepp, switched to summer tiers and wheels today. Same vibrations. By chaging the axle, all violent vibrstions ive been fighting for 1.5 years is gone. The vibrations that remains feels like an unbalanced wheel or something spinning and is very slight. The vibrations chaging when turning at speed. Thats why i think i got a bad axle. Will try to get a new one and see.

But the car is driveable again :)

If your wiggle changes while turning check your bearings if you haven't. Check them again if you have :D Also check your power steering fluid level. I had the same issue and then my rack blew out on the passenger side. Now to be fair it blew out (or I noticed it blew out) after smoking the biggest pot hole in the history of life but it could have been leaking prior and causing a weird shake due to pressure differences. Considering it gets somewhere near 700 psi while turning a lack of pressure would make it hobble like yours is and mine was. I am picking up my reman rack monday and will let you know if it fixes the wobble/shake.

[Alucard136]

Do that. I saw your trend about the rack. My fluid level is just above low so will do a flush. My bearings are new so no problem there. Im pretty sure that its my axle. The vibrations feels just like when my old vibrating axle started to get bad, which then got worse over time. I will refund this axle and get another one. If the vibrations doesnt stop i will need some brainstorming help ��

[yeoj112689]

Do that. I saw your trend about the rack. My fluid level is just above low so will do a flush. My bearings are new so no problem there. Im pretty sure that its my axle. The vibrations feels just like when my old vibrating axle started to get bad, which then got worse over time. I will refund this axle and get another one. If the vibrations doesnt stop i will need some brainstorming help ��

Well I pick up my new rack tomorrow so I will let you know as soon as I get it in.

[Alucard136]

How did it go with the rack?

My update: I replaced the cv axle i bought with another used oem axel. I still have a very slight vibration in steering wheel and pedals between 55 - 65 mph so nothing wrong with the axles. You can barley see the steering wheel vibrates but you can feel it. It only appears if i cruise in those speeds or accelerate slowly, if i drive full throttle through 55 - 65 i feel nothing wrong. The vibrations is light years better than my previous vibrations with the bad axle but what can this be?

The vibrations feels like an unbalanced wheel between 55 - 65 in cruise and slow speed, nothing when full throttle or when idling.

I got almost new wheels and tiers.
I'm balanced and aligned.
I got new wheel bearings
I got new control arms, inner and outer tie rods and sway bar end links.
I got new oil in the rear diff
I just refilled servo fluid
The car feels perfect otherwise

I'm thinking something with the wheel hub on driver side but i don't know how it could brake since i've never hit anything but it's the only thing spinning that haven't been replaced. Yes or no on that?
The only other thing that i can think of is the gearbox since that's were the axle is attached. But i have no bad sounds, it change and hold the gears perfectly and the clutch doesn't slip.

Ideas?

[yeoj112689]

How did it go with the rack?

My update: I replaced the cv axle i bought with another used oem axel. I still have a very slight vibration in steering wheel and pedals between 55 - 65 mph so nothing wrong with the axles. You can barley see the steering wheel vibrates but you can feel it. It only appears if i cruise in those speeds or accelerate slowly, if i drive full throttle through 55 - 65 i feel nothing wrong. The vibrations is light years better than my previous vibrations with the bad axle but what can this be?

The vibrations feels like an unbalanced wheel between 55 - 65 in cruise and slow speed, nothing when full throttle or when idling.

I got almost new wheels and tiers.
I'm balanced and aligned.
I got new wheel bearings
I got new control arms, inner and outer tie rods and sway bar end links.
I got new oil in the rear diff
I just refilled servo fluid
The car feels perfect otherwise

I'm thinking something with the wheel hub on driver side but i don't know how it could brake since i've never hit anything but it's the only thing spinning that haven't been replaced. Yes or no on that?
The only other thing that i can think of is the gearbox since that's were the axle is attached. But i have no bad sounds, it change and hold the gears perfectly and the clutch doesn't slip.

Ideas?

I just picked up the rack today and won't be putting it in until next weekend probably due to waiting for my tie rod ends to come back from FCP (just sent them in today).

I literally have the EXACT issues you are having so hopefully this will solve it. I will be sure to update when I get it in there.

[Alucard136]

I see, how did your steering feel before the rack blew?

[sfdoc]

I had the same issue after going from stock wheels to OZ MSW 25s (18x9). I fixed the problem with hub centric rings. About $8 USD on Amazon. Nylon ones are fine unless you are running the absolute mess out of your car; go aluminum.

I know you used 2 different types of wheels.
If you are on stock wheels then disregard. Another thing to look at is your lugs. If you are on aftermarket rims and not hub centric then you are lug centric. If you are lug centric and using, lets say, acorn or cone lugs on a rim with a conical seat you may be off center = vibration.

[yeoj112689]

I see, how did your steering feel before the rack blew?

Felt fine outside of the vibration, didn't think it was rack related but it could have been considering it blew out.

[Alucard136]

After elaborating with some different axles is still think its just my left cv axle being slightly bad. I ordered yet another used cv axle and the one i got this time was super bad. The inner joint were all lose causing vibrations early as 5 mph. I'm in luck ;)
So to conclude my axle fun: My own oem axle is broken, making a spinning noise, make the car jump forward like an egg wheel at low speed and vibrates violently over 55 mph. My first bought used axle feels perfect at low speed but give off a slight vibration between 55 - 65 mph. The second oem axle gives vibrations at all speeds but not as violent as my original oem axle.

Thus i think bad axles and evil scrapyards seeding shit to people. I'm going to keep the slight vibe axle and when it goes bad just my a new axle. I bought a lot of used oem and they worked flawless but it seems like you cant trust the axles.

[yeoj112689]

So I got my new rack in and the vibrations are gone! So I guess look at the rack if you are having strange vibrations.

[Sanjman]

I hope you one day figure it and be done with this thread like Teneddor was with his

Definitely a long process figuring this one out unfortunately

[Biged243]

I hope you one day figure it and be done with this thread like Teneddor was with his

Definitely a long process figuring this one out unfortunately
Yea I 2nd that.

[ultimo]

Guys im in same problem like you with my 2.0 TDI. Already changed my inner CV joints, tranny mount, and now i find a guy who selles used ones, so we will try to change completely both sides/axels/joints and see if that helps... Will let you know.

[Alucard136]

Im pretty happy with mine now. Still have a very slight vibration from the used cv axle. Otherwise its all fine again :) i will keep this axle until it goes bad then get a new oem.

[yeoj112689]

Well for a few days after I did my power steering rack the vibrations went away. Was smooth sailing at all speeds. Then the vibrations slowly came back around 40-80 MPH.

I am sure its not a wheel/tire issue as I have swapped wheels and get the same problem in the same location. When the vibrations happen it makes the steering wheel shake back and forth horizontally at a rapid pace. It is not a balance issue. I have had it road force balanced and conventionally balance several times as well as checking the the air pressure.

It went away for about a week and now is slowing getting worse again. Things I have replaced (due to wear) are:

Control arms (upper and lower)
Tie rods (inner and outter)
Struts and springs
Motor and tranny mounts
power steering rack (flushed as well)
Rotors and pads (twice)

I am sure there are more things I just can't think of them right now. The only things I can think of that could be causing it are:

wheel bearings (no play from what I can see but at this point who knows)
Axles (I have some horizontal play but the dealer said that is normal, idk if I believe it)
Alignment (I have gotten about 4 alignments since the problem started and it never seems to fix it except after I replaced my rack, but it came back. Could mean the alignment keeps getting pushed out. I am not sure.

The odd thing is it seems to get better when I hit the brakes. The shake goes away. I figured it maybe something to do with the brakes but I have had 3 sets of rotors and pads on it and the same issue.

The main thing I am suspect of is the axle that has horizontal play. Is this normal like the dealer said or should I call him a fool?

[Biged243]

It's possible that the hub itself is warped or bent. Very uncommon but possible. My left wheel bearing was bad, I knew it by the way it drove and the sound but when I tried the wiggling of the wheel off the ground method it didn't move much but as soon as I took the cv shaft out of the wheel bearing there was definite play in there.

[yeoj112689]

It's possible that the hub itself is warped or bent. Very uncommon but possible. My left wheel bearing was bad, I knew it by the way it drove and the sound but when I tried the wiggling of the wheel off the ground method it didn't move much but as soon as I took the cv shaft out of the wheel bearing there was definite play in there.

I am going to pop off the axles to see what's up with them. Do you need a new nut when you take them off? Also any idea on the size off hand?

[Alucard136]

The axle bolt is a 17 allan. Its said that you need a new bolt. But i would not get one if i just remove it once. From what i heard you should hand thigthen the bolt with the wheel off so you dont damage the bearing. Your driverside axle is the most easy to remove. Remove the bolt by hand when the car is on the ground or powertool. You can remove the inner bolts from above in the engien bay. That way you dont need to remove belly pan. Once the bolts are off, compress the inner joint and slide it to the left and up. that way you can remove the driverside axle without removing anything else. If the outer joint is stuck, put the bolt back in and hit it with a rubber hammer.

Anyhow, my driverside axle looked fine when it was on the car, once removed the inner joint were very loose. Pooking it with your finger resulted in the joint flying about.

The operation should take less than 30 min for driverside

[ultimo]

I have changed both axels (with joints) for OEMs used and still same thing... im starting to think that it is my gearbox that is faulty :(