Powering Radar Detector in 2015 S7 using a Mirrortap

[NPKR]

Using the wiring harness in your autodimming mirror is yet another way to power your radar detector. A-Pillar/Fuse panel route and Homelink are two other popular methods.

I prefer using Mirrortap with a Blendmount for what I think is the cleanest install possible. It's also fairly easy and straightforward. No wires need to be spliced and no panels need to be removed (other than the tiny plastic covering pieces). The one short, thin Mirrortap cable is almost completely hidden behind the rear view mirror. While I used a Blendmount, it should work with other mounting solutions equally well. If you are going to hang it from your visor or windshield you will likely need a slightly longer cable length, which Mirrortap does have available.

I used a Audi-004 Blendmount mount and 12 inch Mirrortap Microtap, which has slightly thinner (.05 vs .08 I think) pins which you will need to wedge into the Molex connector plug wiring harness. You need to find the 12v wire and ground wire in the harness. You will wedge the red mirrortap pin into the 12v and the black pin into the ground. I show it in the following photos from my own installation but if you are not sure use a multimeter.

As I indicated, I used a microtap but Mirrortap recommends a regular size Mirrortap (.08 I think ) for Audi vehicles. My Infinity m35x was a real PITA to get the pins into so I wanted the smaller microptap pins for my S7. I would stick to the regular Mirrortap size as my microtap was initially a bit loose. But I was able to snugly fit it in without a problem by wedging the pins into a different corner of the respective ground and 12v connector stalls.

See cautionary disclaimer at end of this post.



Step 1:

Remove plastic trim cover to expose wire harness. Slide it backward slightly so you can see the front lip detach from the middle piece of plastic trim. Then wiggle, pull, back and forth and it will eventually let go. The connector points don't appear designed to hold it too tight. At this point you can also wiggle off the smaller middle piece of plastic trim.





Step 2:

With ignition and power to the mirror off, detach lower wiring harness from mirror. Mine was snug and I had to use a bit of force but it came off without a problem. There is a tiny release pin which you push up on to allow the wiring harness to come free. I used the tip of one of my multimeter probes to push it in.


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/27/4u8ejese.jpg



Step 3: Locate the 12 v and Ground wires in the freed harness. Use a multimeter to confirm the 12v and ground if you are not certain.






Step 4: Wedge the pins into the respective wire "stalls" of the aforementioned 12V and Ground wires. My wiring harness 12 V lead was the black and red wire and the ground was the brown wire next to it. I also had a second ground wire (per my multimeter testing)- the black wire third in line. So it went black/red (12v)-brown (ground)- black ( 2nd ground)- and purple wire, in that order. At this point I turned on the ignition and confirmed there was power by connecting my RD. See photo below.


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/27/eze6emyn.jpg




Step 5: Tuck the Mirrortap cable under the middle smaller plastic trim piece such that it comes out at 12 O'Clock where the stem of the mirror attachment exits the plastic trim. This serves to not only hide the cable behind the mirror but it also anchors the slack inside the wiring harness box and doesn't require any drilling of holes or alteration of the plastic trim pieces to allow the cable to exit the wiring harness cover.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/27/esy9agav.jpg


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/27/e7ugenum.jpg



Step 6: Attach remaining larger plastic trim cover, attach your RD and plug it in, and use a plastic zip tie around the Blendmount to gather the slack in the Mirrortap cable and you are done.http://www.audizine.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/27/hatydugy.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/27/e6y5a2u9.jpg



Caution: I am not an electrician or a car mechanic. I am not affiliated with Mirrortap or Blendmount in any way. This is simply how I installed my Mirrortap in my 2015 Audi S7. Please see the Mirrortap instructions that come with your Mirrortap and read them carefully before attempting installation and see the warnings and disclaimers on the Mirrortap brochure/directions. If you are unsure of the Ground and 12V plug indentity, use a multimeter. I make no representation that the wiring of your rearview mirror is the same as mine. The above installation outline is simply a demonstration of how I installed my own RD with a Mirrortap. If you are still uncertain about the installation in any way have a qualified installer do the installation for you.

[Silverarrow240]

Great walk through!!!! Thanks so much!

I will be attempting this soon, or else me thinks I'll go broke from future speeding tickets!!

[CanuckRS]

i found the install using homelink has shorter cable showing and much less intrusive for location imo.

[NPKR]

Nothing wrong with wiring through Homelink. I just didn't want to see the power cable exit the headliner in front of the mirror...too visible for me.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[KmanA6]

And this is easily reversible (i.e. you can plug the Mirrortap in and out if you need to bring the car in for service)?

[CanuckRS]

Nothing wrong with wiring through Homelink. I just didn't want to see the power cable exit the headliner in front of the mirror...too visible for me.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

cable exits from headliner above the mirror. have my detector and camera installed in that location above the mirror so they don't interfere with visibility.

[NPKR]

The benefit of the Mirrortap is that there is no visible cable- it's all hidden behind the mirror.

Probably more important is the optimal position of the RD just below the rearview mirror for rearward radar detection of sources behind your car. With your detector mounted up high above the mirror or to the side of the mirror sensitivity to radar coming from behind is greatly reduced. This has been shown in testing and makes intuitive sense.
But to each his own....both methods will work :)

And yes it is reversible....although I don't think I would bother doing so before bringing in for service.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[bjterp00]

Great job ... thanks for posting the pictures, and the step-by-step. Much cleaner than the a-pillar cable run. Will try Saturday or Sunday when I am home from vacation. Glad I didn't send back the Mirrortap.

Thanks, too, for pointing me over here from AudiWorld!

[NPKR]

Great walk through!!!! Thanks so much!

I will be attempting this soon, or else me thinks I'll go broke from future speeding tickets!!


Great job ... thanks for posting the pictures, and the step-by-step. Much cleaner than the a-pillar cable run. Will try Saturday or Sunday when I am home from vacation. Glad I didn't send back the Mirrortap.

Thanks, too, for pointing me over here from AudiWorld!

Your welcome. Hope it helps. If during your own installations you find a way to improve on the install please feel free to add to this post.

[PB4UGO]

Great post!!! Thank you!!!

[soslower]

Super clean install. I'm trying to tap into some wires for my headlights. Was thinking of going to the fuse box

[bjterp00]

Just did mine tonight following NPKR's instructions ... worked perfectly! No comments to improve other than just noting that it is a little worrisome to tug so hard not the trim to pull it off, but no problems at all!

[KmanA6]

How thick is the cable? My A6 mirror housing is different but there is a 1/8" gap between the headliner and mirror cover where the wire might be able to squeak through.

[NPKR]

Not sure what the A7 mirror cover looks like but the installation will have a cleaner appearance if you have the cable exit on the windshield side of the mirror (behind the mirror) rather than btwn the cover and headliner which would leave cable visible in front of the mirror, at least in the S7.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[NPKR]

How thick is the cable? My A6 mirror housing is different but there is a 1/8" gap between the headliner and mirror cover where the wire might be able to squeak through.



Not sure what the A6 mirror cover looks like but the installation will have a cleaner appearance if you have the cable exit on the windshield side of the mirror (behind the mirror) rather than btwn the cover and headliner which would leave cable visible in front of the mirror, at least in the S7.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[niklasios]

Great post. Just did it on my RS7, looks amazing.

[JoeCaMotto]

Great post!!! Thank you!!!
+1, Thanks

[AstleyJ]

Great write up! Just installed mine over the weekend. FWIW, the wires in my 16 S6 were the exact same as yours.

[AnTarbh]

Great write up! Just installed mine over the weekend. FWIW, the wires in my 16 S6 were the exact same as yours.

Can you show some pictures of your configuration? How big of an impact is it in your visibility?

[ak_siberian]

Which Blendmount model did you get as there seem to be several. TIA

siberian

[kouzman]

Which Blendmount model did you get as there seem to be several. TIA

siberian

+1 one on this! I just want to be certain before I order. thanks!

[dafried]

This is my first post here, having just acquired a 2014 A7 Prestige. I can't live without my V1 and this will be my first mod. Thank you so much for posting this and including the pics

[bmoss]

Doing this soon on to be delivered '16 S6 - thanks, great write-up.

[Phoneboy]

I have the blend mount and mirror tap for my 2013 a7 and love it. I had it in my s5 previously and had it moved. Would not use anything else.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app

[tonymission]

+1 one on this! I just want to be certain before I order. thanks!

I got this one for the RS7 and it's perfect. Love it.
https://store.blendmount.com/blendmount-radar-detector-mount-for-beltronicsescortaudimirror-id-aud-004specialty-series-p2021.aspx

[TallMartin]

GREAT POST! I've been looking for instructions on how to wire my Valentine V1 into my 2016 S6.

Quick question: does your car have the auto stop / start (i.e. when the car is in Comfort mode, the engine will stop at stoplights, ect, and restart when you take your foot off the brake)? If so, does it maintain power to your detector when this happens? I'm currently using the cigarette lighter in the armrest, and the engine restart causes power to dip to the point that the detector restarts (resetting the bluetooth connection to my phone). Mildly annoying...

[NPKR]

GREAT POST! I've been looking for instructions on how to wire my Valentine V1 into my 2016 S6.

Quick question: does your car have the auto stop / start (i.e. when the car is in Comfort mode, the engine will stop at stoplights, ect, and restart when you take your foot off the brake)? If so, does it maintain power to your detector when this happens? I'm currently using the cigarette lighter in the armrest, and the engine restart causes power to dip to the point that the detector restarts (resetting the bluetooth connection to my phone). Mildly annoying...

My S7 doesn't have auto stop/start so i can't say anything myself about your problem. However, I have seen other posts which directly address your problem on Audiworld. Valentine ( i think its Valentine) sells a tiny unit for $25 that you plug in-line with your radar detector cat-5 plug and it alleviates the restart with engine shutting down.

[bmoss]

Thanks very helpful. I just did the install on my 2016 S6, all relatively similar. If anyone has specific questions
about the S6, pm me.

[Clipse3GT]

Thanks for the write up. I just did this on my 16 S6 prestige as well as my wife's 16 A6 Premium plus. The wiring was same on both Black/red was + and brown next to it was Gnd -. Thanks again was super easy to hook up the Escort 9500ix.

One step I skipped was disconnecting the connector. I just placed the mirror tap pins and zip tied to the harness wires. Just verified with multimeter first.

Also if you something powered constantly it's the yellow/red wire it's the + and the brown next to it as the Gnd - on the secondary harness.

[Lateral_G]

Nice work OP. Did you install the Escort mute button in the car somewhere?

[13_C7_SC]

So I did this install using the mirror tap and blend mount, and it works great. Yesterday I installed LED reverse lights, and now my radar doesn't get powered on anymore by my mirrortap.
Has anyone had this issue happen to them?

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[ericw.]

I followed OP's post, required a little effort to make sure my mirror tap made consistent connection with the wiring but this was a very helpful resource to eliminate the question of where to tap into power. Thanks NPKR for sharing!

[BCT]

Installed my V1 using the Blendmount and Mirror Tap. Very clean and "professional" looking. My only complaint is that it does block vision a bit, especially when the MMI screen is up, which is all the time for me. Other than that, it's a great set up.

[ericw.]

Installed my V1 using the Blendmount and Mirror Tap. Very clean and "professional" looking. My only complaint is that it does block vision a bit, especially when the MMI screen is up, which is all the time for me. Other than that, it's a great set up.
That's why i didn't go with the blend mount. I'm going to stick with suction cup mounts on this car.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170330/8a9feed5ddf568747e638ff2461ee818.jpg

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

[Sanjman]

just installed my escort max 2... put it above the mirror and to the left. I have a big box above my mirror, and the max 2 sits nicely there and the view to the back is fine... just a little irritated that the radar sits so far forward. Thinking of going with regular 2 suction cup attachment to gain the space back so I can move my visor forward more.

Edit: I also ran the hardwire cable through the pillars and found a switched 12v line. cake

[mcouch70]

Really nice job on this. Just installed a 360 Max in my 2016 RS7 following your instructions and the install went perfectly! Didn't even have to pull out my multimeter. 45 min from start to finish. Thanks!!

[elptxjc]

Couldn't find this thread while searching, but a very nice forum member linked it for me (thanks buddy). Wanted to bring it up for 2 reasons. First, the correct mount now is AUD-009 for the S6, which has the weird stem. Second, can't remove the (wide) upper plastic part, and don't want to break anything. Where are the clips up there? It has to be pulled down, but wish people took a picture of the part instead of trying to explain how to remove it. Most of us seeing where the tabs are would make it obvious how to remove it. If unsuccessful, will just pull down the console. Should be easy after removing 1 T-25 Torx screw inside the sunglass holder. Thanks.

[Blackbeard]

Would this by chance work for the b5 a4/s4?


Be Honest, Be Humble, Be Happy

[ericw.]

Would this by chance work for the b5 a4/s4?


Be Honest, Be Humble, Be Happy

The concept might be the same if it has a powered mirror, you can use a multimeter to confirm or find your + and - but otherwise the similarities between a B5 and C7 pretty much end at the audi emblems on front and back.

[elptxjc]

Two more things folks. First, the mirror housing with the driver package is very different than without it, due to the lane-departure camera. Upper plastic part is wider than the sunglass compartment. On cars without it (like ericw's), the stem seems very narrow. That's why I can't put the detector there. And that's also why people should specify which mirror they have. And second, in my car, there's absolutely no space to push anything backward or forward, to 'wiggle' the plastic anywhere. The only way to remove anything is starting with the wide piece on top, and the only place it has to go is down from the very top (where it touches the headliner)... but mine doesn't want to budge when squeezed and pulled down. It was already creaking, so need to know where the freaking tabs are, before I break something. If somebody has an S6 with the driver package, it'd be nice to hear specific instructions on which of the 3 plastic parts to pull, and exactly how. And yes, from now on, somebody please take a picture of the stupid piece upside down (showing all tabs) and that would provide all the explanation us DIY-type need[:D]. Otherwise, I'll go with the roof console when the mount arrives later this week. With the roof console out, it should be easy to pop that wide piece out. In fact, looks like the OP had the roof console removed on his first pic, so that might be necessary to remove before that wide piece anyway. I'll find out soon enough. He he. Thanks gang.

[ericw.]

Two more things folks. First, the mirror housing with the driver package is very different than without it, due to the lane-departure camera. Upper plastic part is wider than the sunglass compartment. On cars without it (like ericw's), the stem seems very narrow. That's why I can't put the detector there. And that's also why people should specify which mirror they have. And second, in my car, there's absolutely no space to push anything backward or forward, to 'wiggle' the plastic anywhere. The only way to remove anything is starting with the wide piece on top, and the only place it has to go is down from the very top (where it touches the headliner)... but mine doesn't want to budge when squeezed and pulled down. It was already creaking, so need to know where the freaking tabs are, before I break something. If somebody has an S6 with the driver package, it'd be nice to hear specific instructions on which of the 3 plastic parts to pull, and exactly how. And yes, from now on, somebody please take a picture of the stupid piece upside down (showing all tabs) and that would provide all the explanation us DIY-type need[:D]. Otherwise, I'll go with the roof console when the mount arrives later this week. With the roof console out, it should be easy to pop that wide piece out. In fact, looks like the OP had the roof console removed on his first pic, so that might be necessary to remove before that wide piece anyway. I'll find out soon enough. He he. Thanks gang.

The tabs are in the same location. I noticed the differences when doing a dash cam install in a friend's C7 RS7 with the much wider mirror cover and CPU looking thing that it hides underneath.

I can't vouch for the mirror wiring harness since my cam installation in the RS7 goes to constant power (fuse box), but I believe it should still be similar. Worst case scenario you can get a long wire and tuck it into the headliner and down the A pillar to the fuse box like I did with the dash cam.

[elptxjc]

The tabs are in the same location.
Do you happen to have those locations??? He he. That's what I need. Especially the tabs at the top, where plastic meets headliner. So no need to remove the roof console to be able to insert the leads? Thx.

[ericw.]

Do you happen to have those locations??? He he. That's what I need. Especially the tabs at the top, where plastic meets headliner. So no need to remove the roof console to be able to insert the leads? Thx.There aren't tabs at the ceiling liner to my recollection, only at the mirror end just like the other mirror. It's just a really tight fit and requires you pinch and slowly work it out.

This is on a 2014 RS7 though but I can't imagine they'd change it on a c7.5.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Mortis101]

Followed instructions and it works great. Only odd thing is when I put the car in reverse the detector loses power. Anyone else have that problem or know of a solution?

[elptxjc]

There aren't tabs at the ceiling liner to my recollection
I know, but the plastic part is basically touching the headliner. So it can only be pulled down. I need to know where the tabs (and what kind) are at the top of the part. It's obviously attached to a bracket on the windshield, not the headliner. But there're absolutely tabs on top, because I can't freaking move it. Looks like I'll just drop the roof console first. Went to dealer yesterday to change the tires, and master tech said after removing the screw inside the sunglass compartment, the console drops easily. We'll see. Then I'll drop the mirror plastic anyway to route the wire there, but once I can actually see the damn thing with a mirror or something. If it still doesn't budge, I'll exit the wire at the roof liner next to the mirror; it'd be almost the same thing, hardly noticeable. Will post what I end up doing. Mount and cable arrive today. Seems a lot safer to pull the console first, rather than be guessing where the tabs are, and risk breaking something. Thanks for the help anyway; greatly appreciated[up].

[ericw.]

I know, but the plastic part is basically touching the headliner. So it can only be pulled down. I need to know where the tabs (and what kind) are at the top of the part. It's obviously attached to a bracket on the windshield, not the headliner. But there're absolutely tabs on top, because I can't freaking move it. Looks like I'll just drop the roof console first. Went to dealer yesterday to change the tires, and master tech said after removing the screw inside the sunglass compartment, the console drops easily. We'll see. Then I'll drop the mirror plastic anyway to route the wire there, but once I can actually see the damn thing with a mirror or something. If it still doesn't budge, I'll exit the wire at the roof liner next to the mirror; it'd be almost the same thing, hardly noticeable. Will post what I end up doing. Mount and cable arrive today. Seems a lot safer to pull the console first, rather than be guessing where the tabs are, and risk breaking something. Thanks for the help anyway; greatly appreciated[up].

Sounds like a lot of extra steps. Cover the center console with painters tape to prevent scratches and pull that sucker down. There's no tabs holding it in, just a tight fit.

[160Swift]

I've had my eye on the BlendMount + Mirror Tap for a while now, and finally pulled the trigger today.

If you've been on the fence about ordering one, here is a little extra incentive: use this link to get 12.5% off your order: http://blendmount.refr.cc/ZHQM88Q

Saved me $20!

[ericw.]

I've had my eye on the BlendMount + Mirror Tap for a while now, and finally pulled the trigger today.

If you've been on the fence about ordering one, here is a little extra incentive: use this link to get 12.5% off your order: http://blendmount.refr.cc/ZHQM88Q

Saved me $20!

My only issue with the blendmount is that our windows are short, so this puts the radar essentially right in the center of the windshield.

I found with a small suction cup mount, I can mount my Passport 9500ix out of the way between the mirror and ceiling liner.

[0000_S5]

In my last car, I mounted the RD in the upper drivers’ side corner of the windshield using a suction mount. But I removed the suction cups and used windshield mirror glue to affix the metal. Held great for 10 years and came off with a razor blade when I sold the car. I plan to do that on my S5 once I find a mount that will work the same way. My new escort RD has a giant vacuum suction mount, so I need something different to use my preferred approach. I’ll run power down the A pillar and mount the mute somewhere inconspicuous.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[elptxjc]

Did the install yesterday. Many comments. First of all, there's NOTHING to squeeze. On the contrary. Where the tabs are, plastic needs to be pulled away, not squeezed. Before getting into that, got the roof console down, which was cake. Single screw inside sunglass holder, pull it down from there, and console pivots down. Tabs are on the Homelink end. Poked everywhere and no place to get switched power. The only place is Homelink, but not even the longest MirrirTap cable (20") was long enough, so don't bother with it folks. So had to mess with the mirror. Used a pry tool inserted at the top, next to the headliner, and it dislodged along with the narrow piece. One of the tabs of the little piece is super weak, and almost broke, but was able to massage it to its original position. Next time I'd break for sure. Had a hell of a time trying to put back the little part, and even dislodged the freaking mirror, thinking I broke it. TUrns out it just twists in place. As a hint, remove the round mirror part by pulling it straight down. THat'd help reinstall the little part without removing the mirror. The only mishap was while leveling the detector in all directions, which took a few tries, and in one of those the allen wrench fell on the console, making a nick next to the engine start button (aaaargh!). So put a freaking towel over the entire console folks, even if you think you're not going to drop anything. Ha ha. Anyway, for the final part, most of you are powering the detector from the camera. That's a no-no to me. I used the mirror connector instead. The correct wires are the black with red stripe (+) and the brown next to it. That gives you switched power, and no reverse shutdown, and no possible camera malfunctions. The mirror only works at night, so during the day it doesn't need power. And same with the high-beam detector in front of it. Couldn't put the wire out thru the round cutout, so just make an almost invisible half-moon opening on the long piece at the right place. Looks factory. Detector sits a bit lower than I like (I like it almost flush with the bottom of the mirror), but on this car, it was physically impossible to locate it any higher, so happy with the installation. Hope this helps.

[Spindrift]

First post here on Audizine.com. Thank you to those who have gone before me! A word to the wise: Don’t ever test drive an RS7. Anyway......

I was able to accomplish this install today in my new RS7. [rolleyes] It felt really odd yanking on that piece on a car of this caliber....too impatient to wait for a pro tho :D

I took a few quick snaps of the requested piece. My RS7 has the driver assist camera near the mirror so it was a little tight but doable. I just squeezed, maneuvered, and massaged that piece downward until it popped free. I didn’t have to drop the overhead console as previous posters had. I just removed that piece (downward and away from the headliner and towards the mirror mount), unhooked, the mirror connector...plugged in the Audi-specific mirrortap (larger blades), (black-red (+), brown right next to it (-)) tested and re-assembled. :30 mins tops. Here are the photos I snapped of the piece with the “tabs”. They look pretty robust to me and I didn’t ever feel like rocking it and massaging it ever was going to break anything.


5335353354533555335653357

[digdah]

I don't know why but now I consider that a challenge.


First post here on Audizine.com. Thank you to those who have gone before me! A word to the wise: Don’t ever test drive an RS7. Anyway......

I was able to accomplish this install today in my new RS7. [rolleyes] It felt really odd yanking on that piece on a car of this caliber....too impatient to wait for a pro tho :D

I took a few quick snaps of the requested piece. My RS7 has the driver assist camera near the mirror so it was a little tight but doable. I just squeezed, maneuvered, and massaged that piece downward until it popped free. I didn’t have to drop the overhead console as previous posters had. I just removed that piece (downward and away from the headliner and towards the mirror mount), unhooked, the mirror connector...plugged in the Audi-specific mirrortap (larger blades), (black-red (+), brown right next to it (-)) tested and re-assembled. :30 mins tops. Here are the photos I snapped of the piece with the “tabs”. They look pretty robust to me and I didn’t ever feel like rocking it and massaging it ever was going to break anything.


5335353354533555335653357

[jgoga]

Followed instructions and it works great. Only odd thing is when I put the car in reverse the detector loses power. Anyone else have that problem or know of a solution?


Did you find a solution to this? I am having the same exact issue.

John

[NPKR]

Sorry, haven't been back to audizine in a while. Sorry I missed your post.

I didn't remove the roof console. The hardest part of this install is having the courage to pull on the lower, larger plastic panel more and more until it gives and comes off. I was worried it was going to break. Pull and rock it back and forth and it will come free.

[hanyoung]

Anyone ever try and 3D print a custom mount? Seems like it would not be difficult. I’ve found some generic ones online. Obviously should be different than ones sold commercially but then you could customize height and angle.

[hanyoung]

Feel retarded - removed the plastic trim no problem. I was able to wiggle the mirror connector down (but unable to release it). I have the wider mirror tap probes as recommended by the manufacturer. I see the red/black wire (which I tried to jam the red mirror tap wire into. No way that's going in there.) I believe the brown adjacent to it, or the purple below it is the ground, I also try and jam the black mirror tap wire into it.) No dice. Do I have to remove the harness to jam the wires in? Doesn't seem like it's possible. Any tricks on getting the wiring harness out? No amount of wiggling, or using a nail to push on what I think is the release pin (the small square in the harness). Thanks!

[hanyoung]

Considering filing the taps to get them to fit

[martinitime]

Feel retarded - removed the plastic trim no problem. I was able to wiggle the mirror connector down (but unable to release it). I have the wider mirror tap probes as recommended by the manufacturer. I see the red/black wire (which I tried to jam the red mirror tap wire into. No way that's going in there.) I believe the brown adjacent to it, or the purple below it is the ground, I also try and jam the black mirror tap wire into it.) No dice. Do I have to remove the harness to jam the wires in? Doesn't seem like it's possible. Any tricks on getting the wiring harness out? No amount of wiggling, or using a nail to push on what I think is the release pin (the small square in the harness). Thanks!

103836

Hope this shows the pic. If you can, try to keep harness plugged in. I threw 2 codes for auto wipers and lights by unplugging but my detector fires up perfect in this harness with these pin spots and I used the larger pins as they were more snug.



Sent from my iPad using Audizine (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=87676)

[hanyoung]

Thanks so much - I tried jamming those pins in there to no avail. Will try with some needle nose pliers, or worst case file down. Appreciate the picture!

[Chiromikey]

Thanks to those in this old thread that laid the groundwork and made this a 10 minute job for me!

Also, FYI: Walmart online sells a generic mirror tap for half the price and it even comes with multiple size taps (they’re unnecessary since the standard ones fit perfectly).

[ak_siberian]

Thanks to those in this old thread that laid the groundwork and made this a 10 minute job for me!

Also, FYI: Walmart online sells a generic mirror tap for half the price and it even comes with multiple size taps (they’re unnecessary since the standard ones fit perfectly).

Would you have the SKU or part number for that please? TIA

siberian

[Chiromikey]

Would you have the SKU or part number for that please? TIA

siberian

Here’s a link..

https://www.walmart.com/ip/RadarMount-com-Mirror-Wire-Power-Cord-Escort-Beltronics-Valentine-1/118423432?athcpid=118423432&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWVAV&athieid=v0&athstid=CS020&athguid=f8ff870e-840-168dd41bc25ab7&athena=true

https://www.walmart.com/ip/RadarMount-com-Mirror-Wire-Power-Cord-Cobra/108040876?athcpid=108040876&athpgid=athenaItemPage&athcgid=null&athznid=PWVAV&athieid=v0&athstid=CS020&athguid=3709f4d8-515-168dd3fbfde6e2&athena=true

[ak_siberian]

Thanx! You're referring to the $9.39 model for probe thickness (shown for those requiring DC power socket)?

siberian

[Chiromikey]

Thanx! You're referring to the $9.39 model for probe thickness (shown for those requiring DC power socket)?

siberian

I bought the one with the RJ-11 jack for a Valentine 1 but I believe they both come with the same .075” probes which are perfect.

[ak_siberian]

Thanx! Appreciate it!!!

siberian

[16s3pang]

Got my V1 finally installed using a MirrorTap and Blendmount. Hardest thing was trying to undo the mirror wiring harness. I skipped that part and just slid the mirrortap in to the 12v (red/black) & ground (brown) in the harness. What a PIA that was. Was quicker to take the mirror cap off and install/adjust the Blendmount for my V1. Loving it so far..

[Threeman]

Appreciate the write up and all of the other supporting posts.

20 minute install.

Cheers!

[crafty]

Just finished mounting a Redline 360c with blendmount and mirror tap power cable, probably took 30 min going slow, making minor adjustments so the RD is level, facing straight forward, etc. That time also includes connecting the detector to my cars wifi to get database updates, testing in reverse and all of that, time well spent! Note: probably not the best idea to do it when the car has been sitting in sub zeroish temps (in my garage, but it is -10ish outside right now) as the forward most tab snapped right off :(. I am assuming that the plastic was a bit too brittle for the amount of pressure I applied to pull off the cover. It went back on OK but is a bit loose... time to hunt for a replacement I guess. I am still happy with the results though, way better than my old 9500ix mounted via suction cup in the middle of the windshield under the rear view mirror with a big ass coiled phone cable thing hanging off of it, getting in the way of the MMI screen, and routing down to the lone 12V port in the front of this car :D.

One other thing, these new Escort RDs are GINORMOUS! I thought it was the size of a pack of cigarettes... maybe if it was a pack of Camel Wides 120s... but it does look nice(arrows!), and I am looking forward to seeing how this thing works, SO MANY more setting and shit to learn than my old RD.

[beez]

Anyone do this on the 2021 RS7? I've pulled on the large piece above the mirror to expose the wiring. Been afraid I would break it. I guess I will try again.

[Maynor]

Bringing this back to the top. Those pics/instructions years later helped me with my mirrortap install. My fingers were too big to try and pull the connector out of the socket (thankfully, it angles back slightly), so I had to use some needle nose from pliers to pull the plug out.

Red mirror tap into black wire socket
Black mirror tap into brown wire socket

Installed in a 2016 S6