PDA

View Full Version : New to Audi, got a few rookie questions



rybo404
08-26-2014, 08:54 AM
First, I would like to say, I have read the FAQ, the thread about using the search feature and (tried ) to read the Wiki.

I am looking to buy a used A4 in the 1998-99 range. My budget to do this is $4000.

I read a little blurb in the B5 FAQ about tiptronic sucks. Manual is preferred. I get that from a performance stand point, but is that also true as far as having trans. problems.

Also, I will be looking at cars, hopefully starting today, so any tips, things to look for, signs of major problems, etc., I would be interested to hear.

It sounds like a really fun car to own, looking forward to having one.

Thanks

redline380
08-26-2014, 08:58 AM
I fail to see much of a question here, but yes, I would greatly prefer a manual over a tip due in large part to reliability issues. For things to look for, the list could be a mile long, but ensuring the tbelt has been changed recently is one of the most important things to look for. Plus receipts for any maintenance is good

rybo404
08-26-2014, 09:07 AM
Please keep in mind, I don't know jack about Audi's. But you did answer my question. Manual trans. are more reliable than Auto.

Does that mean the tiptronic is something to avoid alltogether?

redline380
08-26-2014, 09:16 AM
Does that mean the tiptronic is something to avoid alltogether?

Not necessarily, but unless I got a smoking deal, I wouldn't.

Turbo_B5
08-26-2014, 09:32 AM
Good lick with the search. Manual will definitely be more reliable then tiptronic. I would not buy a tiptronic unless its got a new transmission. Make sure the coolant is red. If its got a timing belt done make sure its got receipts.

walky_talky20
08-26-2014, 09:51 AM
I would recommend you get one in the 2000-2001 range instead. There are a lot of improvements (aesthetic and otherwise), and these later years usually come more "loaded" as the dealers were trying to move an aging design/compete with newer models from other brands.

There are basically 3 engines available. So you should pick which one you want: 2.8 12-valve, 2.8 30-valve, and 1.8 Turbo.

Turbo_B5
08-26-2014, 09:53 AM
I would recommend you get one in the 2000-2001 range instead. There are a lot of improvements (aesthetic and otherwise), and these later years usually come more "loaded" as the dealers were trying to move an aging design/compete with newer models from other brands.

There are basically 3 engines available. So you should pick which one you want: 2.8 12-valve, 2.8 30-valve, and 1.8 Turbo.

I would like to second that and with the 1.8T engine.

redline380
08-26-2014, 09:55 AM
Yeah, walky is dead on. Knowing what I know now, I am so glad I ended up with an 01.

moyenecorniche
08-26-2014, 09:56 AM
First, I would like to say, I have read the FAQ, the thread about using the search feature and (tried ) to read the Wiki.

I am looking to buy a used A4 in the 1998-99 range. My budget to do this is $4000.

It sounds like a really fun car to own, looking forward to having one.

Thanks

Fun cars.... Yes, they can be ...... BUT ...
$4000 is that total budget ? Or is there additional funds for potential replacement of parts. At under $4000, you are looking at a high mileage 100,000+ Audi. Not a problem if it was well maintained but you may still have a list of normal wear items to replace such as rotors, pads, upper and lower control arms, inner/outer tie rods. shocks. Timing belt kit.
In all that is going to eat up much more than $500 in the hope that you find an excellent car for around $3,000-$3,500.


Please keep in mind, I don't know jack about Audi's. But you did answer my question. Manual trans. are more reliable than Auto.

Does that mean the tiptronic is something to avoid alltogether?

This suggests that you are not able to perform your own repairs ? This is where we make up much of the costs in owning an Audi. The ability to wrench your own car.
Much of it can be learned, many of the parts that wear out due to use are not that expensive, But with Audi's , the Tech labor rates will eat up a big chunk of any repair bill.

I'm not attempting to detract you from buying an Audi, but be aware these are not inexpensive and not addressing maintenance as required will lead to very expensive repairs since so much is interrelated on these cars. Don't think you are going to drive an Audi like a Honda. That is Gas up, check oil and Go. Not german cars. Audi's are demanding but quite reliable when well cared for.

There is much info here on DIY's and you can back search for specific models and their history on here and also on < www.audidrivermag.co.uk > back issues are filled with maintenance and reviews on B5 and previous Audi's..

Good Luck and if puzzled ask, there often is someone here that can answer your question.

moyenecorniche
08-26-2014, 10:04 AM
I would recommend you get one in the 2000-2001 range instead. There are a lot of improvements (aesthetic and otherwise), and these later years usually come more "loaded" as the dealers were trying to move an aging design/compete with newer models from other brands.

There are basically 3 engines available. So you should pick which one you want: 2.8 12-valve, 2.8 30-valve, and 1.8 Turbo.

+ times 3

rybo404
08-26-2014, 11:37 AM
The car I'm planning to go look at is a 2001 A4 1.8t Quattro - manual trans - AWD - 170xxx miles.

says the timing belt, water pump, belt tension er and rollers have been replaced within the last 10k miles. plus the chain tensioner gasket.

Also has a replacement ABS module that is going to be replaced and re-coded with a VAG-COM. Tie-rod ends have also been replaced.

I know, doesn't count unless their are reciepts of work done. How do you verify if the seller does the work himself. Reciepts from parts bought?

To answer your question about being a mechanic, no I am not a mechanic. I do however, want something that is sporty, fun and that I can make my own. $4000 is the budget for the car. I have money for parts, etc.

redline380
08-26-2014, 11:42 AM
how much does he want for the 01? $4000 is a tad much for that car considering the miles. If it has been babied though it might be worth $3500. I'd say not a dime more than $3000 for average condition, but you should get it between $2500-3000.

I paid $6500 for my 01 six years ago now with 115k on it. You cant tell me a car only depreciates that much in six years with an extra 55k miles.

rybo404
08-26-2014, 11:48 AM
Asking price is $3500.

redline380
08-26-2014, 11:49 AM
Asking price is $3500.

go check it out, offer $2500 if it is in decent shape, and go from there. maybe take a lot of pictures and load them up? and ask for receipts if he has them

rybo404
08-26-2014, 12:00 PM
Thanks for your help so far. I'll post with the results. Sounds like it may not happen for a few days though.

moyenecorniche
08-26-2014, 12:08 PM
You need documented service history, pure and simple. Wether it was done by the owner or by an independent shop is not the issue.
Proof that the work was performed is.
There are many 01 A4's for sale under $4000, so do some more research and find the best all around. Maybe this one is it but you really need comparisons.
As for costs of maintenance, you also need to crunch those numbers, because those will add up more than you expect.
It is sometimes better to pay a bit more upfront than weeks or months later when it really adds up quickly.

If you have friends that are familiar with VAG, then by all means have them involved in selection.
( by familiar I refer to owner who wrenches )

rybo404
08-26-2014, 01:24 PM
I'm looking to have a car that is fun to drive. I have a good job, kid's are starting to get moved out. ( 2 down, 2 to go ) I am looking for something sporty that I can work on myself. i.e. lots of community support like this site. I'm really not worried about down time for maintenance. I have another car and a motorcycle to get to work.

Clewe
08-26-2014, 01:58 PM
Get a 2001 1.8t manual with Quattro of course, very user friendly as far as working on + it comes with the wideband which is much better for tuning if you decide to go that route. Also comes with 180hp stock opposed to the earlier 1.8t's that come with 150. Like others said they are also much cleaner than the pre facelifts and usually come with more options.

As far as what to look for, like others mentioned timing belt (located in front of motor behind plastic cover, pops off with two clips), and I would look at the coolant reservoir and see how clean it is, make sure there is the proper g12 (pink) coolant in it.. Also make sure there is tons of maintenance receipts. It seems like b5 owners either are retards who completely neglect their car or people who are in love with their car and take good care of it and have receipts/maintenance pretty well documented. Typically if it's from a dealer the car is garbage (that's how it is here anyway).

walky_talky20
08-26-2014, 02:01 PM
I'm looking to have a car that is fun to drive. I have a good job, kid's are starting to get moved out. ( 2 down, 2 to go ) I am looking for something sporty that I can work on myself. i.e. lots of community support like this site. I'm really not worried about down time for maintenance. I have another car and a motorcycle to get to work.

^These goals sound realistic. I like this guy.

redline380
08-26-2014, 02:59 PM
I'm looking to have a car that is fun to drive. I have a good job, kid's are starting to get moved out. ( 2 down, 2 to go ) I am looking for something sporty that I can work on myself. i.e. lots of community support like this site. I'm really not worried about down time for maintenance. I have another car and a motorcycle to get to work.




this may be the first time I've ever said this, but a b5 a4 may be a perfect vehicle for you. Just don't let the mod bug hit you unless you are ready to spend money.

You looking to mod at all or just keep it nice?





Sent from my windows phone on Tapatalk since iPhone blows

rybo404
08-26-2014, 04:35 PM
Not sure what I want to do. I just want to try to start with a solid platform, then see where it goes from there. I really haven't even looked at all the options yet.

From reading some of the posts on here, I need to get the necessary maintenance taken care of, then start the mods.

Like a kick in' stereo and rims! Lol

moyenecorniche
08-26-2014, 06:08 PM
Not sure what I want to do. I just want to try to start with a solid platform, then see where it goes from there. I really haven't even looked at all the options yet.

From reading some of the posts on here, I need to get the necessary maintenance taken care of, then start the mods.

Like a kick in' stereo and rims! Lol

No DUDE ..!! You need to slam it so you can slam those uncovered risers in the awaiting to be paved road zones ... [;)]

But in all seriousness since we're talking 1.8T motor.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/464304-Franken-Turbo-Tuning

rybo404
08-26-2014, 07:51 PM
Don't they call that Stanzed?

Anyway, since we are talking about some modding, is there any mods that would boost value or even decrease value? Or something that, done poorly, would cause big problems?

And also, seems like there are more of the a4 2.8t listed than the 1.8t. Any real difference, other than a bigger motor? Would I be wise to just stick with the 1.8t? Or is it purely a preference thing.

As an aside, you guys have already been a big help in my quest for an Audi.

redline380
08-26-2014, 08:07 PM
All mods done well will increase value. Any mod done poorly will decrease value. Really, a modded car's value is truly in the eye of the buyer.

People normally get the 1.8t to mod, stick with 2.8 for reliability. I personally would only get a 1.8t unless presented with an awesome value for a 2.8. the four cylinders are less cluttered and easier to work on I think. And once you get a chip in them (which doesn't reduce reliability unless you drive it like a dipshit) they are faster than a v6 model and still get better mileage.

rybo404
08-26-2014, 08:25 PM
Ok, good info. I've mainly been looking on CL in the Seattle/Tacoma area. It seems like the ratio between the 1.8t and the 2.8t is pretty even. I guess the owner of the car I got my eye on won't be able to show it for a few days. The good thing is I can afford to be patient, I'm under no pressure to buy anything immediately.

LA4
08-26-2014, 09:43 PM
In general (at least around me) it's easier to find unmolested 2.8s if that matters to you. Most 1.8Ts have already been modded. But personally I would not want a 2.8 unless it was a daily driver that I really needed, and in that case I probably would just buy a Mazda or some cheap beater, and find a cheap 1.8T.

Since this is going to be a project for you, I would definitely go with the 1.8T. The 2.8 really is a solid car, and stock it isn't bad to drive, but there's just not that much you can do with them and ultimately I would probably get bored.

moyenecorniche
08-27-2014, 02:59 AM
Ok, good info. I've mainly been looking on CL in the Seattle/Tacoma area. It seems like the ratio between the 1.8t and the 2.8t is pretty even. I guess the owner of the car I got my eye on won't be able to show it for a few days. The good thing is I can afford to be patient, I'm under no pressure to buy anything immediately.

have you checked Autotrader.com, there you can at least look nationwide. Shipping is not that expensive if required.

Drifter420
08-27-2014, 03:31 AM
^ look nation wide yes you will find a better deal if you aren't in a hurry to buy . I bought two a4 for cheap because people don't know what they have, my first I paid 900bucks for it, wouldn't start and the guy thought the tranny might be going, turns out he put a cone filter didn't plug the mass air in and he did plugs and wires and he crossed the wires. Fixed all that put a new temp sensor bam no check engine light and it ran perfect till I crashed it. Second one 700 bucks because it had the bumper off and kinda high km but it runs mint

TheWaterboy
08-27-2014, 03:53 AM
Ok, good info. I've mainly been looking on CL in the Seattle/Tacoma area. It seems like the ratio between the 1.8t and the 2.8t is pretty even. I guess the owner of the car I got my eye on won't be able to show it for a few days. The good thing is I can afford to be patient, I'm under no pressure to buy anything immediately.

I've got a lead on a 2000 that I could probably get you into for less than $700. It needs a hood, fender, core support, and it's got bent valves (1.8T). I was looking into picking it up as an easy flip, but I just can't have another project Audi haha. It's located in Shelton, Wa. Otherwise there are a few great cars out there. I bought my 98 A4 1.8TQM from Cottage Lake motors in Woodinville for $3500 with 174k on it. It was high miles, but the car was incredibly clean inside and had coilovers+exhaust+originated from CA(no rust issues). First thing I did was get a timing belt and new front control arms put on (would have done it myself, but I just spent the money on it instead) and that ran me $1100. Until I got hit with the mod bug, it was a very reliable car, save for the known issues (coil packs, ICM, airbag light, ect.) if I could go back in time, I'd probably have found the same car private party for like $2000. Good luck with your search! Let us know what you find.

Packy
08-27-2014, 06:36 AM
The cvt cannot be tuned so no upgrading. Also, it spins the tire very easily with even 211 hp. Gotta get Quattro!!

redline380
08-27-2014, 06:53 AM
The cvt cannot be tuned so no upgrading.

Better stick to the b8 section [;)] There is no CVT tranny available in the B5, and non that came stock with 211 hp.

Packy
08-27-2014, 07:49 AM
Sorry, I'm playing with the new tapatalk and I didn't see the forum header. What years were the B5?

redline380
08-27-2014, 07:57 AM
Sorry, I'm playing with the new tapatalk and I didn't see the forum header. What years were the B5?

They were imported from 96-2001. 96 was only available with 12v 2.8, the rest were available with 30v v6 and 1.8t's.

rybo404
08-27-2014, 08:54 AM
Auto trader, I still think of them as something you get on the newsstand. Totally forgot about them.

R490
08-27-2014, 08:57 AM
Timing belt is a biggie, Check the suspension components, avoid tiptronic, make sure to factor in repairs to your budget (Like clutch and whatnot)

Which engine do you prefer, 1.8T or the 2.8?

rybo404
08-27-2014, 09:20 AM
I believe I am leaning towards the 1.8t. Although, in my area, it seems as though the 2.8s are in slightly better condition than the 1.8s.

What I want for staters, is a car that handles well, moderately quick in a straight line and looks nice. I don't care ( for the time being, lol ) about big HP or drag racing type power. I like the curvy roads better! Never had a car like these before. I would like one I can drive home though. Don't think I want to start with that big of project. I just don't know enough about these cars yet.

But dammit, guys, stop talking about modding or I might end up like all of you. I'm not sure my marriage could handle it!

Definitely want it to start out as drivable though. What happens after that, who knows.

redline380
08-27-2014, 09:55 AM
If you are looking for a little more performance, you might want to check out an S4 if you are okay with doubling the price

rybo404
08-27-2014, 11:19 PM
You mentioned looking at the s4 model, which you were right, just about double the price. Still looking around.

what about the a6 4.2 with/ Tip? Just wondering. Seems like the more I read about these cars, the less I know.

slunky
08-28-2014, 01:51 AM
A6 is a completely different car. If you want a car thats a FUN weekend ride and potential mod, you'll do much better with a B5 and the minds on this forum than you would with a B6. I've only had my B5 for a little over 8 weeks, but we have 3 in the house now and the possibilities are seemingly endless. I know exactly what I want to do to mine, and it can be done.

walky_talky20
08-28-2014, 06:47 AM
A6 4.2 (and the larger A8 4.2) are common to have failures of the tiptronic transmission. For this reason the engines are somewhat plentiful with relatively low mileage, and are becoming popular to bolt into A4's. Because Racecar. This is almost always done using a 5 or 6 speed manual transmission from a V6 A4 or S4.

So when people say "you can't do anything to a V6 A4", that's not exactly true. They are setup better for bolting in the V8. Especially if it's already a 5-speed car. If you get a 2000 or 2001, the V8 literally bolts up and plugs right in. A little bit of messing around with fans and you're roasting all 4 like a boss.

bhusted
08-28-2014, 06:52 AM
As others have said avoid the tip cars. It's inevitable failure is not so great for a high mileage car. The 4.2L tip cars had an even higher rate of failure. With a standard transmission, the main point of failure is the clutch disk/PP, which is something the home mechanic can replace and doesn't cost an arm and leg.

I would avoid looking outside your immediate area. Opening up the search nationwide does provide more hits, but these cars are not rare and are you really going to drive/fly to Texas to look at a used B5 on the owner's word? When buying a used Audi, or any used car for that matter, be as picky as possible. You are the one that will be stuck with this car when it's all said and done, so check it out before you buy it. If you don't feel comfortable checking it out yourself, you can pay for a buyer's inspection at any dealer or independent mechanic.

rybo404
08-28-2014, 11:51 AM
Yeah, I have no intention of going very far out of my area. Frankly, I just don't have time to do it.

I'm still looking for a A4 1.8t. I saw a nice A6 4.2 on CL and just thought I would ask. I did read review after review on the tranny though. Didn't sound very good. Unless you could buy from someone that had already replaced it once. Plus, buying a V8 defeats the whole purpose of what I'm doing. I got rid of my V8 truck so I didn't have to put gas in it all the time!

I've widened my search to include the S4, although I think it is a bit to far out of my price range. I'm ready to buy, just waiting for the right Audi to come along!

moyenecorniche
08-28-2014, 06:49 PM
S4 is also a completely different animal. I love (b6) the Recaros, 6 spd. manual ( although 5th and 6th are way too short ). It came with more bells and whistles than I needed but the point is driving wise it's fun.
Caveat .... expensive to maintain properly, mpg are not stellar but far above truck like consumption.

(1) look for a B6 1.8T, they are out there for around the $5000 mark. More than you may want to spend but an x-tea $1,000 or $2,000 is small change if it insures all servicing and maintenance is up to spec. Reason being that since you have never had one of these, there is an at times steep learning curve in maintaining these cars and especially if you are planning on DIY much of the required maintenance.

(2) I am thankful that my 1st Audi was a B6 1.8T avant and not my current B6 S4. I would never have been able to ease my way into learning the platform and being able to wrench it myself. Even though I have always worked on my own cars, Saab / Volvo / Honda /. The Audis are just different. Not so much complicated but different in layout.

rybo404
08-28-2014, 09:34 PM
Yeah, a s4 is most likely out of my reach for now. I have a couple 2001 a4 1.8t's in my area that I want to look at. I got a couple more questions to ask though.

One of the cars has a re-built title. I have the car fax from when the guy got the car after the rebuilt title, but of course, there is no maintenance history. The guy bought it last year and only put 6k miles on it. 150k miles on the car. It has a pretty gnarly scratch in the front bumper. And he says it pulls to the left, i.e. needs an alighnment. Or could its something worse?

Seller probably hasn't done any maintenance since he bought it, but only drove it 6k miles.

moyenecorniche
08-29-2014, 02:50 AM
^^ Pass. It sounds like the tip of an iceberg. There is no need to consider salvage / rebuilt in your quest unless you are ready-willing and able to completely if needed rebuild a bargain.
Again, look on Autotrader, there are possibilities for $4000-$5000. A B6 is worth the higher price point due to the overall redesign both interior and exterior, including mechanicals.
But a nice well cared B5 is also a good choice. As for the tip trans. it is reliable, But and this is a critical But, it depends on previous owner and servicing.
These were never designed as race cars, but all day highway cruisers. I never had a tip. trans. problem with my former 04 B6 A4 Avant all the way to 208,000 miles ( car went with the divorce ) so reports of unreliable trans. are to be taken into context and for the most part just a broad stroke.

Just look at the service history, as well as current state of the car. That should be the criteria. A high mileage B5 or B6 is not necessarily a bad choice. These cars will go the distance and much more if well cared for.

rybo404
08-29-2014, 06:43 AM
Is the s4 alot harder to wrench than the a4? Did Audi make a model that the auto. trans. was good? 2000 s4 2.7t any good?

redline380
08-29-2014, 06:47 AM
Is the s4 alot harder to wrench than the a4? Did Audi make a model that the auto. trans. was good? 2000 s4 2.7t any good?

Yes it is harder to wrench on, and no, the auto trans is still junk.

Turbo_B5
08-29-2014, 09:52 AM
Auto is shit. Even on my brothers 2008 A3. Its only got 80000km and its had a trans replaced on warranty. Thats one of the main points of them buying it. That and that its a hatchback. And his girlfriend buses to work so little miles are put on the A3.

rybo404
08-29-2014, 10:20 AM
What about if the trans. had already been replaced/ rebuilt? Does that make it more reliable or save you from further trans. problems?

walky_talky20
08-29-2014, 02:01 PM
Not necessarily. I would be more worried about a trans that has been all taken apart. I'd rather have a factory sealed box. You never know why it was rebuilt to begin with (problem may come back) or if they fixed it right (replaced everything that was smoked or just replaced the minimum and reused some questionable pieces).

Is it a factory-level refresh or a shortcut fix to get it out the door? Who is to know. Unless it comes with the warranty paperwork that is fully transferable, a rebuilt trans doesn't add much value for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

rybo404
08-29-2014, 04:53 PM
Looked at my 1st Audi today. The one I spoke of in one of the earlier posts. Timing belt looked new, pink coolant, drove and shifted real nice, everything seemed real smooth. ABS module replaced, no CEL.

Drivers seat heater doesn't work and a piece of door exterior door trim is messed up. Other than that, seems like normal wear and tear for a 2001 a4 1.8t.

Asking $35 wouldnt come down to $30, so I walked. No receipts of any maintenance.

bhusted
08-29-2014, 05:16 PM
Can't really go by what the timing belt looks like. There are several components in the timing circuit that should be replaced during any timing service. If any one component fails, the engine is toast. Without record of when it was done, assume it hasn't and plan on replacing.

Turbo_B5
08-29-2014, 06:37 PM
What bhusted and walky_talky20 said^^

The exterior door trim is a shitty design/material and commonly break. You can usually find a better condition one at pick n pull.

zandrew
08-29-2014, 09:16 PM
Looked at my 1st Audi today. The one I spoke of in one of the earlier posts. Timing belt looked new, pink coolant, drove and shifted real nice, everything seemed real smooth. ABS module replaced, no CEL.

Drivers seat heater doesn't work and a piece of door exterior door trim is messed up. Other than that, seems like normal wear and tear for a 2001 a4 1.8t.

Asking $35 wouldnt come down to $30, so I walked. No receipts of any maintenance.

Yeah a lot of sellers gage price on the person looking at the car. For example if you are younger and seem eager to buy he may be firm on a price since he thinks he can get it out of you easier then an older person that is more savvy. Car buying can be a pain in the ass so be prepared. Don't act over all eager. If you talk with a seller on the phone try to set a time to meet and throw something in like "I need to meet at this time since I have 2 other cars I want to check out". If you say that then be prepared to name such cars. Basically you want him to think if you are willing to walk if you can't meet a price quickly.

Check cars in larger City as prices in rural loactions are steeper. In larger locations its more volume of cars sold then selling one car for max profit. Also be willing to travel tog get what you want but don't let the seller know you are 2 hours away. They will try to use this as an advantage thinking your willing to travel 2 hours since your mind is already made up.

Make sure the car matches the seller description. If not point it out and don't cut them no slack as they typically will not cut you slack.

As for what to look for in our cars, most have the driver side seat tear so be prepared for that. ABS light is typical as wll but usually is a cheap fix. There is solder that brakes in the ABS unit and it costs around $50 to fix. I would prefer 2001 if at possible and would be willing to pay extra for it. I would take a clean 99.5 if I came by one though for a GREAT deal but the 2001 is the pinacle in my opinion of the B5s. The sport suspension is nice but depending on what you plan on doing may not be worthwhile for paying extra for it over a base option. Maintenance is the biggest thing with these cars and is a must before modding. TRY TO GET THE MOST VALUE FOR YOUR DOLLAR!!! Mileage is important but I would take a well cared for car over one thats was not cared for with less mileage.

As for modding; thats a whole other issue....or should I say addiction....

rybo404
08-29-2014, 09:33 PM
Thanks for all the help guys. All good things to consider. I wasn't to worried about the trim, or the seat heater. The sellers husband is a mechanic, although there was no receipts for any work or parts bought. The ABS module was replaced though.

No worries, I'll keep looking.

zandrew
08-29-2014, 09:56 PM
Are you in washington state or dc?

TheWaterboy
08-29-2014, 09:57 PM
State if he's looking on the Seattle/Tacoma CL

rybo404
08-30-2014, 07:51 AM
Yes, Washington State. Still looking. The neighbor kid just bought a 2002 a4 quattro w/ tip.

rybo404
09-01-2014, 07:39 AM
Hopefully going to look at another one today. 2000 a4 1.8t quattro. 148k - $3800 - Has all the maint. receipts and pretty much every thing you guys have mentioned has been done recently. We will see what recently though. lol

Ripped driver seat, rear driver side window doesn't work right. No CEL or ABS on.

Halfrican
09-01-2014, 08:44 AM
All automatic transmissions "suck".


A6 4.2 (and the larger A8 4.2) are common to have failures of the tiptronic transmission. For this reason the engines are somewhat plentiful with relatively low mileage, and are becoming popular to bolt into A4's. Because Racecar. This is almost always done using a 5 or 6 speed manual transmission from a V6 A4 or S4.

So when people say "you can't do anything to a V6 A4", that's not exactly true. They are setup better for bolting in the V8. Especially if it's already a 5-speed car. If you get a 2000 or 2001, the V8 literally bolts up and plugs right in. A little bit of messing around with fans and you're roasting all 4 like a boss.

My 2001 2.8QM will someday have a 4.2l. I cannot wait. I will be looking into it more thoroughly after this year of school.

rybo404
09-01-2014, 12:11 PM
I bought it! 2000 Audi A4 1.8t Quattro - Liked the way it drove, had receipts for everything, which was done about 20k ago. new upper/lowers, new tires and rims. Don't get me wrong, there is still stuff to be done, but hopefully the major stuff is good for a bit.

Will be due for a oil change in about 1500 miles or so. Probably just go ahead and do it early.

Anyways, thanks for the info., so I was able to make an informed decision.

bhusted
09-01-2014, 12:30 PM
Welcome to the club! Post up some pictures for us to oogle your new prize.

Turbo_B5
09-01-2014, 01:02 PM
Congratulations! Pictures or it didn't happen. Is it a manual?

rybo404
09-01-2014, 07:49 PM
I put a few pics in my gallery. Haven't had a proper photo shoot yet due to the need to goto work.

Pretty pumped on the new car though?

bhusted
09-01-2014, 08:03 PM
Not too hot on those wheels, but it looks pretty straight and clean.

rybo404
09-01-2014, 08:24 PM
Yeah, I would have bought different ones as well. Passenger side of lower grill is missing and a small dent in pass. door is it. Brand new tires though!

Overall, I'm pretty happy with it for a starting point. Now to figure out what to do with it.

TheWaterboy
09-01-2014, 08:34 PM
Lemme know if you want some B6 Sport wheels or RS6 18's.

rybo404
09-01-2014, 08:53 PM
Ok. Wheels are not high on the priority list right now. I'll start with making sure the regular maint. is complete, then worry about looks.

rybo404
09-07-2014, 08:54 PM
2000 A4 1.8t QM

OK guys... I got a few more rookie questions.

What jack stands or ramps do you guys like? I will be doing an oil change soon.

Is there a particular jack point to lift your car from?

Can someone point me towards the correct Vag Com to get for my car? I have an older PC that runs Win XP, will that work?

That's all I've got for now. Just starting to dig into the maintenance side of this adventure. On a side note, I'm not a total idiot, I've just never been much of a car mechanic.

rybo404
09-07-2014, 09:11 PM
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/07/ff5f222eb49a2a4f357a35170f2a586d.jpg

Also... When I took the engine cover off, I found these 2 wires sitting just like this. What are they for? Do they need to be attached? What size bolt do I need?

They don't seem to affect anything that I have noticed in my week of ownership.

Turbo_B5
09-07-2014, 09:30 PM
Lol. that is a ground for the ignition coils it deff needs to be attached. You can try to use the bolt in the bottem left hand corner of the picture if u aint putting the cover back on.

TheWaterboy
09-07-2014, 09:33 PM
Yeah that's sketchy. Once your coils start to go, look into the FSI conversion. $18/coil vs. $60/coil and higher performance.

LA4
09-07-2014, 09:40 PM
2000 A4 1.8t QM

OK guys... I got a few more rookie questions.

What jack stands or ramps do you guys like? I will be doing an oil change soon.

Is there a particular jack point to lift your car from?

Can someone point me towards the correct Vag Com to get for my car? I have an older PC that runs Win XP, will that work?

That's all I've got for now. Just starting to dig into the maintenance side of this adventure. On a side note, I'm not a total idiot, I've just never been much of a car mechanic.

I prefer to use a jack/jack stands over a ramp. Unless you have longer low profile ramps. The ramps I already had just didn't really work with the height of the A4 (and that's stock, if you go lower it'll be even more difficult)

rybo404
09-08-2014, 07:00 AM
So that is a grounding wire for the coils? Is there any legit reason it would be un-attached?

down_n_dapper
09-08-2014, 07:21 AM
So that is a grounding wire for the coils? Is there any legit reason it would be un-attached?

Pure laziness of putting that bolt back on or someone has forgotten about it somewhere in its history. Best to get that attatched pronto as stated before [up]

Anyways, nice A4 and good thinking tapping into the knowledge of some of the heavies on this forum, start a build thread and just post what you do and what it looks like!