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View Full Version : Conversation thread, what makes the best daily A4?



zandrew
07-28-2014, 02:40 PM
In the time that I have a been a member I have seen multiple suggestions for a daily drivers and I have constantly wondered what the best setup would be for a daily. I know budget would be the main variable but I would think that most members would be able to spend $5k on mods.

What is the best setup without opening the engine up? What is the best setup without risking the integrity of the drivetrain?

For me I am really liking the GT3071R WG that I have but if I had the money I would probably go with the 7163.

nynoah
07-28-2014, 03:39 PM
A franken turbo or a GTRS eliminator turbo. A GT3071r is not a good DD turbo setup.

Seerlah
07-28-2014, 03:43 PM
Stage 1 with bolt ons, suspension mods, drivetrain mods, and keep her pretty. That would keep her reliable. Once going into bigger turbo territory you will never know.

zandrew
07-28-2014, 03:53 PM
A franken turbo or a GTRS eliminator turbo. A GT3071r is not a good DD turbo setup.


Not trying to start a pissing match but why would the gt3071r not make a good daily? My daily driving situation is very different then most since there is no stop and go here. Its all open roads but a lot of back roads and mountains. I ain't saying its the best but it works fine really.

Honestly though there is times I miss my k04. Not enough to remove the 3071 though.

I guess this also hinges on what the member wants from a daily and what they can live with and without.

MetalMan
07-28-2014, 04:07 PM
Stage 1 with bolt ons, suspension mods, drivetrain mods, and keep her pretty. That would keep her reliable. Once going into bigger turbo territory you will never know.

I'm inclined to agree here, and have even considered going back to stock turbo and SMIC just to keep the original reliability and ease-of-service.

FrankenTurbo isn't bad for DD, and I've spent much time DD'ing FT since July 2011. The power is good without a lot of lag, but it's still quite a slug until maybe 2,500+ RPM, and once you reach that point, there's a huge torque spike which can be annoying at times.
Also I've found the gas mileage to be mildly disappointing. For roughly the same driving style and mixed city/highway, in my 2001 FT car I get about 21 MPG compared to about 25 MPG in my old stock 1998 A4. Admittedly I'm inquiring to my tuner if there's any chance for improvement here...


Not trying to start a pissing match but why would the gt3071r not make a good daily? My daily driving situation is very different then most since there is no stop and go here. Its all open roads but a lot of back roads and mountains. I ain't saying its the best but it works fine really.

If you lived in SoCal (or name some other area with lots of traffic), you could experience vastly different DD duty. Depending on traffic your average speed for a commute could be (let's say) 10mph. I'm quite sure the GT3071R wouldn't be any fun for that...

zandrew
07-28-2014, 04:26 PM
I'm inclined to agree here, and have even considered going back to stock turbo and SMIC just to keep the original reliability and ease-of-service.

FrankenTurbo isn't bad for DD, and I've spent much time DD'ing FT since July 2011. The power is good without a lot of lag, but it's still quite a slug until maybe 2,500+ RPM, and once you reach that point, there's a huge torque spike which can be annoying at times.
Also I've found the gas mileage to be mildly disappointing. For roughly the same driving style and mixed city/highway, in my 2001 FT car I get about 21 MPG compared to about 25 MPG in my old stock 1998 A4. Admittedly I'm inquiring to my tuner if there's any chance for improvement here...



If you lived in SoCal (or name some other area with lots of traffic), you could experience vastly different DD duty. Depending on traffic your average speed for a commute could be (let's say) 10mph. I'm quite sure the GT3071R wouldn't be any fun for that...

Oh I am sure but honestly I do a lot of off boost driving and the car does get around OK. Not like a K03 or K04 but its not annoying either. Overseas this car was sold with just a NA version of the 1.8 20V and I would say my car performs on par with them (maybe a bit better with the exhaust and intake). I am sure it wouldn't be ideal but at the same time its not a complete pain in the ass. Then again I am used to high strung engines that need a bit of revs to get going.

My version of a daily is a car that can be driven any day of the week (including 12" of snow on the ground), reliable, fun, and you don't have to rev it out to 8K to get it going. I realize that does eliminate a lot of the big turbos say GT3076R and up but I ran a GT2871R before the GT3071R and honestly I like the characteristics of the 3071 better.

As far as suspension mods go what else should be on the list beside coilovers?

Seerlah
07-28-2014, 04:32 PM
Sway bars and fresh control arms/tie rods make a difference. Then drivetrain upgrades also make a huge difference. If not going to make the car fast, you can at least make it fun. There are many who prefer suspension mods over engine mods.

nynoah
07-28-2014, 04:37 PM
The more you push the engine the more things break. Plus a 30 series turbo is very laggy. I am sure someone will chime in that "no no no my car with its mega turbo is great as a DD."..... yeah you beat the odds. However for the rest of people in reality, the simple truth holds, the more you push the HP to liter ratio, the more prone to breakdown.

Davdraco1
07-28-2014, 05:13 PM
I have a stock tuned 01 with a full exhaust, gutted cat. I love revving that thing, it's loud, but sounds awsome. I'm doig maintenance bc I need the car for the next few years, but I would suggest the simple bolt on's. High/higher hp is fun, but 99.99999% of the roads are not straight. You need to slow down. Now, I like going to the drag strip a few times every summer, but back roads are fun, diving into corners, late braking, pushing those limits to me are much more fun then driving in a straight line. Get some good brakes, tires, and a rear sway back with the reinforcement and just have fun ripping around back roads. Also, I like my gravel roads with my quattro, higher hp isn't really needed.... Just my .02

zandrew
07-28-2014, 05:29 PM
The more you push the engine the more things break. Plus a 30 series turbo is very laggy. I am sure someone will chime in that "no no no my car with its mega turbo is great as a DD."..... yeah you beat the odds. However for the rest of people in reality, the simple truth holds, the more you push the HP to liter ratio, the more prone to breakdown.

These cars are getting old and the typical parts are going to break. I feel like you can make the engine relatively bullet proof (to a point) as most just do drop in rods and go. I agree that the GT2860RS would be far better then the GT3071R for most all daily applcations. I think you are off on the GT3071R being a lagger though. Well let me be more specific, the GT3071R WG are not that bad on lag. I did have a GT2871R and it was OK spooler and was very tolerable on the street. Specifically it was .64 AR with the 56 trim compressor in an internal WG T25 housing. After the Comp took a shit on me I went to GT3071R WG and the seller goofed up and sent me the .86 AR T25 housing with the bigger 90 trim turbine (there is 3 different GT30 turbines). This turbo is not that bad and very comparable to the GT2871R. On the interstate I am making 5psi by 2800RPM and the boost does ot peak fast like the 2871 and is bit more linear making 15psi by 3800 RPM. Of course this is in 5th gear.

I am sure this does not compare to the 2860RS but its really not that bad. The cool thing is this turbo will drop into cars with a GT2560R and the GT2860RS. ATP uses this turbo (its the GT3071R WG 84 trim) in their elim setup and someone was making 400AWHP with it.

I am not pushing the engine as of yet and this will really blow your mind, I am still on a complete stock engine and the stock clutch that is now at 140xxx miles. I do have a completely built engine that is going in and clutch setup. I am hoping for a solid 330AWHP. More importantly I hope to that guy that beats the odds. (Oh and I have more then $5k in it. )

Davdraco1
07-28-2014, 05:40 PM
I want to do a big turbo with my car. I would rather have a larger turbo and make less psi then bush the motor to the limit with hi psi.

zandrew
07-28-2014, 05:57 PM
I know there has been members hat have blown engines on a GT2860RS and I would think if someone does not want to open the motor up there are othe options that you can have a lot of fun with. The GT2560R is a great turbo and should get you in the 260AWHP range. They can be expensive though. The turbo I am bit surprised no one has tried for its potential and how easy it would be to adapt is the TD04 19T. It should land right between the GT2560R and GT2860RS and should make in the 26-290AWHP. They can be found cheap and are used a lot on Subaru WRX builds. The cool thing is if you use a Volvo turbine housing you get the T25 flange and the outlet is a 3 bolt which is a lot like the stock DP. On the cold side you can get the turbo with a built in BOV which makes plumbing so much easier. The oil return and feed will be easy to adapt as would the coolant lines.Its a smaller turbo as well so it should fit easy with ATP T25 mani or eBay knock off.

The 19T flows around 37lb min and that compares very nicely to the GT2860RS compressor (38 lb min). It uses a smaller turbine though so it will not have the same flow potential but should still spool fast and make plenty of hp for those that don't want to break the bank or open the engine up. This would be the route I would take given that I did not have BT already.

Davdraco1
07-28-2014, 06:14 PM
What's a good set up for not wanting to do rods? It's my daily car so I kinda can't be without it for any period of time. Also, don't want to drop another grand into rods

nynoah
07-28-2014, 06:19 PM
No rods, no bigger than a Franken Turbo on a milder tune. No meth

RoadRage
07-28-2014, 06:33 PM
I DD my car and performance wise I'm completely stock except for a HFC and 2.5" full exhaust, soon to be full 3" exhaust. I've been reading here for a long time and never had any money to do mods other than some basic things. the rest has been going to maintenance. But I'm at the point now where I need to replace the turbo again, and I've got a bit of money I could put into the car, and the more I think about it the more the frankenturbo appeals to me.

The only question I have with that route is what tune to get. Their website says they don't offer anything for 99.5, so I don't really know where to look. I guess a custom tune is probably the only option, but then what kind of long term reliability am I looking at going with something custom?

On the other hand, with the amount of headaches this car is now causing, everyday I think about just getting a new Hyundai and being done with it.

zandrew
07-28-2014, 06:51 PM
No rods, no bigger than a Franken Turbo on a milder tune. No meth

That is living really on the conservative side. Apr stage 3 uses the gt2560r and I have not seen any issues with dependability. Honestly the peaky torque characteristics of the k04 and ft would scare me more then the higher hp of the gt2560r or even the gt2860rs. The hp of the gt turbos come on later when the car is already moving lowering the stress on the drivetrain. The k04 and ft hits hard and the car is not moving as quickly which can be more stressful on the drivetrain bits.

I guess it really depends on "how" conservative you are.

redline380
07-28-2014, 06:57 PM
Ive had three types. Stock, tuned, and 2817r.

I honestly don't mind the 71r for DD. Yeah it spools like shit, but I don't care. I just enjoy the higher rev range now. Reliability hasn't been a problem at all, just normal maintenance besides the rear main the I put in incorrectly.

It could be my type of commute I guess. My car usually spends more time warming up in the morning than it takes to drive to school, so I wouldn't get into boost with a k03 either. When I do drive longer, it is back to my hometown on the freeway. I might drop it into 3rd once for a pull, but that's it. Truth be told, if you are the type of guy to enjoy driving with a heavy right foot, you might as well feed the beast and go bigger. If you do the build right, maintenance won't be an issue. I'm not saying go full racecar, but a big turbo doesn't really change much for me besides making me happier when I mash the gas. I also got a ton of happiness doing the build and making something work. There's hardly anybody out there that can say they installed the pistons in their own car, let alone their DD. I picked up a ton of tools and knowledge along the way.

Davdraco1
07-28-2014, 08:27 PM
I've also read that the ft kits and the ko4 cars will blow thru clutches bc of the spike in instant tq, also go thru rods... Idk what to do!!!

redline380
07-28-2014, 08:31 PM
I've also read that the ft kits and the ko4 cars will blow thru clutches bc of the spike in instant tq, also go thru rods... Idk what to do!!!

First time I floored the gas after I got tuned my clutch spun when boost hit. I figured I'd upgrade everything at once lol.

bhusted
07-28-2014, 10:06 PM
Best daily A4? V8.

gmx
07-29-2014, 03:36 AM
Unopened 1.8T... tough one. FT or EFR6758(pushing it).

AND do not overmodify on the mounts.

Replace all your diffs/gearbox because it's going to be sloppy!

rockersteady
07-29-2014, 04:31 AM
Ive got a Scroll Turbo on a B5 AEB. (same size more or less as F21) - sp56r

Southbend OFE, secondhand Dual mass flywheel

walbro fuel pump.

500cc EV14's E85 tuned, 3" maf. Home made Turbo intake pipe.

Stock exhaust with a (gutted) hi flo cat. stock intercooler. Thats it. No other performance mods (apart from my array of test equipment- EGT gauge, AFR and Boost)

Over 300 crank hp (320 actually at 5700rpm- 238 All wheel Hp) according to the dyno at only 19psi. NO spike and I have power out of boost if you put the foot down. (Max torque is 224 ft lbs at 5300rpm)

To be a perfect Daily (its speedy, quiet and comfortable right now on factory rims) it could use some brakes.


Replace all your diffs/gearbox because it's going to be sloppy! And this

Cgoon009
07-29-2014, 05:48 AM
Best daily A4? V8.

agreed [up]

Davdraco1
07-29-2014, 07:00 AM
What do you mean by replace all diffs/gears? This is supposed To be a daily so not a ton of money....

U_know_me
07-29-2014, 07:14 AM
I know there has been members hat have blown engines on a GT2860RS and I would think if someone does not want to open the motor up there are othe options that you can have a lot of fun with. The GT2560R is a great turbo and should get you in the 260AWHP range. They can be expensive though. The turbo I am bit surprised no one has tried for its potential and how easy it would be to adapt is the TD04 19T. It should land right between the GT2560R and GT2860RS and should make in the 26-290AWHP. They can be found cheap and are used a lot on Subaru WRX builds. The cool thing is if you use a Volvo turbine housing you get the T25 flange and the outlet is a 3 bolt which is a lot like the stock DP.

This has me VERY intrigued, has no one done this?

I am in the same boat as the OP. My turbo is on its way out and I am searching for the most reliable as well as most HP per $ on the lower end of the BT budget scale.

I have been considering the k04 and FT, but want just a little more than they have to offer. I DD mine and really prefer to throw it into a deep curve than romp it strait down the strip, so the quick spool of a smaller turbine I believe would be more ideal for me.

zandrew
07-29-2014, 09:17 AM
This has me VERY intrigued, has no one done this?

I am in the same boat as the OP. My turbo is on its way out and I am searching for the most reliable as well as most HP per $ on the lower end of the BT budget scale.

I have been considering the k04 and FT, but want just a little more than they have to offer. I DD mine and really prefer to throw it into a deep curve than romp it strait down the strip, so the quick spool of a smaller turbine I believe would be more ideal for me.

LOL I am the OP. My car is not laying down, the thread is just to see different opinions and points of view.

I think the 19T would be the way to go as it could be put together at a reasonable cost without breaking the bank and should provide plenty of performance. The turbine housing outlet is easy to adapt too, they have made 290AWHP on the 2.0 WRX with decent spool, bolts to cheap but reliable manifolds, Easy to adapt DP, I like that the BOV is incorperated into the comp housing, Its compressor outflows the FT; hell it just makes good sense. With it being so closely related to other turbos in terms of flow it should be easy to get an OTS tune that would work or it as well.

Also you should be able to use this turbo without opening the engine up.

nynoah
07-29-2014, 09:21 AM
This has me VERY intrigued, has no one done this?

I am in the same boat as the OP. My turbo is on its way out and I am searching for the most reliable as well as most HP per $ on the lower end of the BT budget scale.

I have been considering the k04 and FT, but want just a little more than they have to offer. I DD mine and really prefer to throw it into a deep curve than romp it strait down the strip, so the quick spool of a smaller turbine I believe would be more ideal for me.

There is no kit for that turbo, so unless you yourself can fabricate to save costs, it will destroy your HP to money spent ratio you are searching to beat. The KO4 or FT is what will work for the best price point.

zandrew
07-29-2014, 09:45 AM
There is no kit for that turbo, so unless you yourself can fabricate to save costs, it will destroy your HP to money spent ratio you are searching to beat. The KO4 or FT is what will work for the best price point.

Its obvious you have not even looked at the turbo mentioned above. I am not saying the K04 or even the FT is not easy to fit but look at the 19T I mentioned and there is one part that will need adapted that can be sourced very easy. The DP, and pretty much any turbo except Elims will need the same work done to them.

Here is a cost analysis for adapting a 19T:

19T turbo with Volvo housing(yes authentic turbo)- $300
ATP knock off manifold -$100
Ebay front mount - $300
Injectors and tune - $300 $800 (buy used is best route)
OIl and water lines - $100
Custom DP to exhaust $300 at best

The only part that needs fabricated is the dp and turbo inlet. Any decent muffler shop can fab a DP, its not that hard. If you want to throw in a CX racing exhaust that is another $400. So for well less then $2500 you can have a engine setup that should provide APR stage 3 performance.

I think thats a pretty damn good deal.

When you compare that cost to what the FT with similiar mods will cost its pretty comparable deal with a turbo that flows considerably more. The FT kits costs $1000 and with fueling and tuning it is $1650. You will still need the exhaust, DP (or test pipe), front mount intercooler.

GrapeBandit
07-29-2014, 09:50 AM
19T will shit on a FT setup.

U_know_me
07-29-2014, 09:56 AM
19T turbo with Volvo housing(yes authentic turbo)- $300

Where?? I have been looking for about an hour and all I can find is rebuilt 13 or 14T's with the 19T for around $800 lol

RoadRage
07-29-2014, 10:46 AM
Where?? I have been looking for about an hour and all I can find is rebuilt 13 or 14T's with the 19T for around $800 lol

Seconded.

Cgoon009
07-29-2014, 10:53 AM
Seconded.

thirded for shits and giggles

U_know_me
07-29-2014, 11:00 AM
Also all the Volvo turbos I can find are T3 not T25 Flange. As for the compressor wheel you can do the conversion from the 13G, 15G, 16T, or 18T into a 19T for an additional $135. Still can all be done pretty cheap. You could buy/find a used one, rebuild it and do the conversion for around $500 from what I am finding.

Still looks like a pretty awesome way to go. I am seriously considering this!

M-Hood
07-29-2014, 11:05 AM
I would say a GT28rs/2871r size turbo for a motor that has not been opened up at all. Anything larger just has too much of a chance on bending the rods when pushed.

Not sure if anyone here knows but Comp/Cavalli turbo are actually working on a OEM replacement turbo that is basically a 5147 using the OEM exhaust housing and modified OEM compressor housing. They already offer a OEM drop in replacement turbo setup for the Subaru and EVO market. So this might turn out to be a good daily driver setup and they are already working on getting it on a B6 test car.

nynoah
07-29-2014, 11:07 AM
Not sure if anyone here knows but Comp/Cavalli turbo are actually working on a OEM replacement turbo that is basically a 5147 using the OEM exhaust housing and modified OEM compressor housing. They already offer a OEM drop in replacement turbo setup for the Subaru and EVO market. So this might turn out to be a good daily driver setup.

that fits into an elim style housing?

GrapeBandit
07-29-2014, 11:08 AM
im sure zandrew is happy to hear about comp turbo in his thread[evilsmile]

M-Hood
07-29-2014, 11:11 AM
that fits into an elim style housing?

The standard Comp stuff already fits right into a Elim housing, from what I have been told is that the OEM drop in setup they are working on now will be a custom ball bearing CHRA that will bolt right up to the OEM Audi housing that will be included with the turbo. They said they want it to look completely OEM with a 5147 inside of it.



im sure zandrew is happy to hear about comp turbo in his thread[evilsmile]

Why shouldn't he, he has already been calling up Comp turbo to get his turbo rebuilt seeing Justin no longer works there. I guess news gets to some quicker then others. lol

nynoah
07-29-2014, 11:20 AM
The standard Comp stuff already fits right into a Elim housing, from what I have been told is that the OEM drop in setup they are working on now will be a custom ball bearing CHRA that will bolt right up to the OEM Audi housing that will be included with the turbo. They said they want it to look completely OEM with a 5147 inside of it.

I know it will fit into the housing, but the length is too long to fit into the car.

M-Hood
07-29-2014, 11:24 AM
I know it will fit into the housing, but the length is too long to fit into the car.

The Comp turbo isn't much longer then a Garrett turbo so fitment shouldn't really be an issue. The main difference will be in the 2871r 3" inlet housing vs the GT28r housing.
The new one they are working on will be a little easier to fit since it will have a stock size or slightly larger inlet.

GrapeBandit
07-29-2014, 11:45 AM
in all honesty, I dont see it necessary to have BB chra in such small turbos. hell, you dont even really need them in BT's

Turbo_B5
07-29-2014, 11:49 AM
What makes the best daily A4? Cupholders.

GrapeBandit
07-29-2014, 11:56 AM
What makes the best daily A4? Cupholders.

a hot bitch riding shotgun

M-Hood
07-29-2014, 12:12 PM
in all honesty, I dont see it necessary to have BB chra in such small turbos. hell, you dont even really need them in BT's

Correct because there is very little spool up time between a JB and a BB when it comes to a small turbo. But I guess people tend to want BB over JB.

zandrew
07-29-2014, 12:13 PM
The standard Comp stuff already fits right into a Elim housing, from what I have been told is that the OEM drop in setup they are working on now will be a custom ball bearing CHRA that will bolt right up to the OEM Audi housing that will be included with the turbo. They said they want it to look completely OEM with a 5147 inside of it.

Why shouldn't he, he has already been calling up Comp turbo to get his turbo rebuilt seeing Justin no longer works there. I guess news gets to some quicker then others. lol


Actually Mike your wrong. The last time I spoke with Comp (may of this year) Justin was still working and I will tell you that Justin was the only sensible person I spoke with. I really have nothing against Comp turbo except the issue I had with them and in fairness there was things I should have done different but ultimately the facts on my side should have persuaded Comp to fulfill the warranty. Those facts is that I proved to them the turbo was purchased and then used within 1 year time frame (actually 6 monthes). The fact they never disassembled the turbo and they have no idea when it as manufactured. That they now no longer suggest using the oil-less for underhood apps. The biggest one of all, my turbos compressor was not balanced and this caused the damage to the turbo itself so it was defective when it left Comp. Your right I did call Comp and tried one more time to get this issue resolved but I was told by my lawyer I needed to make every effort to resolve the situation prior to going to court and that was why I called them. I never had issues with Justin, it was Earnie.

I really don't want to go over the comp issue anymore as it now going to court and will be resolved. I think the multitude of happy Comp users on this forum adds up to something and that every company at sometime is going to have some sort of issue and I was the unlucky person that ended up with the defective unit.

The real advantage of BB over JB is the BB has a better thurst setup that can handle higher levels of boost. Not saying the JB doesn't do its job though, look at all the K04s that have the shit boosted out of them. However the K04 and even the TD04 series has very good design thrust bearing. The older T25 stuff the stock thrust bearing was its weak point.


Nynoah- Comps 47 turbine is the same as a Garrett GT2860RS turbine or the big GT28 turbine (there are different GT28 turbines). It should just be a matter of adapting the turbo housing and bolting down. I don't think their 52 turbine will fit so basically the 5147 is smaller then a GT2871R so I don't see a performance advantage with that combo compared to the GT2871R or GT3071R unless the price is a lot better.

U_know_me - there is T3 Volvo housings which would also work since there is a T3 ATP knock off as well. The T3 style also has a larger AR. There is a T25 though just like I mentioned. The best route is to go to a junk yard and find used 13C, 15T, 16T and send it off for a refresh and upgrade. If you can do the rebuild yourself it will be cheaper but you will need to either have your comp housing machined or buy a compressor and matching comp housing. You can easily get this turbo done for less then $300. I know because I have one. You can also gt some nice Billet compressors for them.

zandrew
07-29-2014, 12:18 PM
Not worth destroying a good informative thread over....

U_know_me
07-29-2014, 12:29 PM
U_know_me - there is T3 Volvo housings which would also work since there is a T3 ATP knock off as well. The T3 style also has a larger AR. There is a T25 though just like I mentioned. The best route is to go to a junk yard and find used 13C, 15T, 16T and send it off for a refresh and upgrade. If you can do the rebuild yourself it will be cheaper but you will need to either have your comp housing machined or buy a compressor and matching comp housing. You can easily get this turbo done for less then $300. I know because I have one. You can also gt some nice Billet compressors for them.

Thanks! I am finding the same thing, looks like I can get a used turbo for about $100, the 19T Compressor Conversion for $165 , 19T housing $195 (if you dont want to machine) and rebuild kit for $157.20 From ARD Tuning. This might be the route I will take.

Seerlah
07-29-2014, 12:33 PM
And...here we go

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p184/Mulla2006/Jackson_popcorn.gif

nynoah
07-29-2014, 12:44 PM
edited

zandrew
07-29-2014, 12:48 PM
And...here we go

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p184/Mulla2006/Jackson_popcorn.gif

I pulled it in the interest of keeping a good thread going.

I think with as many members hat has successful Comp builds they deserve being mentioned.

RoadRage
07-29-2014, 12:50 PM
Let's not go down this road and fuck up another thread.

That Volvo turbo, was it on the 2004-2007 S60R?

zandrew
07-29-2014, 12:55 PM
The S70 and V70 had them. Some of the older Volvos had them but you have to pay attention since some are Garrett and some are Mitsu. Also Saab have them as well but same situation. Some are Garrett and Some are Mitsu.

zandrew
07-29-2014, 02:54 PM
Cooler heads prevailed....

Seerlah
07-29-2014, 02:59 PM
Let's keep it civil. Better than that, let's act like adults. Be cool, gentlemen [cool]

gmx
07-29-2014, 04:55 PM
What do you mean by replace all diffs/gears? This is supposed To be a daily so not a ton of money....

Yea it means these cars are now old and worn, deal with it or get something newer.

zandrew
07-29-2014, 05:38 PM
Thanks! I am finding the same thing, looks like I can get a used turbo for about $100, the 19T Compressor Conversion for $165 , 19T housing $195 (if you dont want to machine) and rebuild kit for $157.20 From ARD Tuning. This might be the route I will take.

Those prices are a bit steep. I PM'd you about this idea. Trust me it can be one a lot cheaper without sacrificing quality.