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viceprp
07-21-2014, 02:39 AM
The car has sat for 3 years so I'm not surprised I have braking issues. First off, the car runs and I took her to Waterfest for my first time driving her. Not to get too. Distracted but she felt good at only 18psi.
So I replaced all 4 brake calipers bc they were all seized up. The car wouldn't roll. She freed up and after a few hard brakes at the house, she got stiff again. Got to the track Saturday and all 4 calipers locked up. Sunday morning I replaced the master cylinder and she rolled fine til the fluid was heated. Put her on stands and noticed that the front left tire was sticking. Cracked the bleeder and she was good to go. Each run was done with the e brake and normal braking at the end of the track.

Plan is to take back the caliper and get a new one. If that doesn't fix it the lines will be replaced.

Are there any other suggestions?

Drifter420
07-21-2014, 03:01 AM
You took your pads and cleaned them up good, you installed the new caliper bracket with the new caliper not the new caliper with old bracket and you used lots of grease?? If you answered yes to all then I would put new flex lines on the car

viceprp
07-21-2014, 03:34 AM
They are the original brackets but that shouldn't make a difference. The residual rust on the brake pads were cleaned off prior to installing. There's no rust on the rotors or the brake pads anymore since the break for locked up for over a mile at 65 mph. It's whatever brake fluid is heated when they want to start to seize.

viceprp
07-21-2014, 03:40 AM
I also would like to add that since I was in a bind these are remanufactured Audi breaks from AutoZone. So there is a possibility that there is a malfunction with the caliper. It still under warranty so I might as well swap and rule out the caliper.

viceprp
07-21-2014, 04:17 PM
No one?

mykcuz
07-22-2014, 01:25 PM
If the old brakes and new brakes have the same issue, something is locking up that is a common part. You may have rust in the lines that is being released and clogging the caliper. Or something completely different

viceprp
07-27-2014, 08:23 AM
Well it's been a while but I also remember uninstalling the abs pump. I picked up a brake booster, master cyl, and abs pump from Andrew.
I took the pump off bc it was quicker to get the module off then to take the fender liner off, pull the washer reservoir and get the sensor out. I know there is a procedure through vagcom to fill the pump but I no longer have a stock ECU. but wouldn't an old fashion two person manual pump the fluid into the abs pump?

Unless there is a clog in the lines somewhere. I have ss braided lines but the car was sitting for 3 years.

viceprp
07-29-2014, 05:23 PM
Bled the ABS module and I plan on bleeding the entire system with the lines not hooked to the calipers. Once that is done and I rest drive the car, if it still seizes then I plan on changing the brake booster and abs module. My brake lines are SS so I don't believe it's a common OEM hose problem.

I'll be making a write up once it's figured out. I might do the booster first, test the car and then replace the ABS module.

mykcuz
02-02-2015, 09:11 AM
They are the original brackets but that shouldn't make a difference. The residual rust on the brake pads were cleaned off prior to installing. There's no rust on the rotors or the brake pads anymore since the break for locked up for over a mile at 65 mph. It's whatever brake fluid is heated when they want to start to seize.
Any update?
The rust is internal in the fluid, not on your pads. Over 3 years without circulating the fluid, steel within the system can rust. When you start driving again that rust can cause binding issues. Bleed the fluid, put some safe miles on the car, check the fluid again.

viceprp
02-02-2015, 03:06 PM
Deleted the abs module and fixed my problems.

I sent the unit out for a rebuild so when it came back, it needed recalibrated. I'm standalone so I couldn't recalibrate through vag com