Adding a Subwoofer to my bose setup

[SPONGE]

I have a 12" polk db (400 RMS / 800 Peak) subwoofer in a sealed enclosure.

I have two amps I can run:
Pioneer prs d2000 spl Mono amp (can be run safely at 1 OHm)
Kicker zx650.4 4- channel amp that can be bridged twice.

I do not want to have to upgrade electrical, alternator or buy the big three if I can avoid it.

I do not need to tear the block down with bass.

Which amp would you reccomend me run on my set up.

What is typical price to have an amp and speaker installed?

Thank you in advance.

[naiku]

I would use the Pioneer and keep the gain down. The Kicker is only going to give you 325W, as you can't use all 4 channels on a single sub.

As for a price, do it yourself, or find a local member to help. Adding a sub is a piece of cake, the hardest piece will be running power wire from your amp to the trunk, you can tap into the stokck amp for your remote turn on lead, splice RCA into the stock harness, and there is likely a place you can run the ground to in the trunk as well. At a complete guess, I would think a shop is going to charge $100 minimum.

[broker23]

I would use the Pioneer and keep the gain down. The Kicker is only going to give you 325W, as you can't use all 4 channels on a single sub.

As for a price, do it yourself, or find a local member to help. Adding a sub is a piece of cake, the hardest piece will be running power wire from your amp to the trunk, you can tap into the stokck amp for your remote turn on lead, splice RCA into the stock harness, and there is likely a place you can run the ground to in the trunk as well. At a complete guess, I would think a shop is going to charge $100 minimum.

Take your car to a shop and have it done right. You will need a line output converter If you dont have a factory sub. I would only use the LC2I this is a must because of factory roll off. Install a bass knob this will give you 12db+/- I would also use all stinger wire and inline fuse. There is no need to upgrade anything electrical, alternator My lights dim very little and im running a Jl 600/1 this amp puts out close to 750 watts rms and im pushing a jl 12w7 prowedge. Please correct me if im but running power and ground is really easy as the battery is in the truck. A shop will charge you around $350 for all the wires and install with the lc21[:D]
http://i61.tinypic.com/2v3iglt.jpg

[SPONGE]

thanks guys. I appreciate your feedback.
I might just run the pioneer and turn down the gain as mentioned as it would provide more headroom.
i was quoted $100 from my local pro audio shop.
I forgot to ask what wires they use.

[subterFUSE]

I have a 12" polk db (400 RMS / 800 Peak) subwoofer in a sealed enclosure.

I have two amps I can run:
Pioneer prs d2000 spl Mono amp (can be run safely at 1 OHm)
Kicker zx650.4 4- channel amp that can be bridged twice.

I do not want to have to upgrade electrical, alternator or buy the big three if I can avoid it.

I do not need to tear the block down with bass.

Which amp would you reccomend me run on my set up.

What is typical price to have an amp and speaker installed?

Thank you in advance.


I just did a full system upgrade to the Bose in my 2013 S6, and we didn't need to do anything for the electrical. Just hooked up my amp to the battery in the trunk. It super easy because the battery was right there in the tire well. No need to run fat power cables through the firewall into the engine compartment.

[SPONGE]

I just did a full system upgrade to the Bose in my 2013 S6, and we didn't need to do anything for the electrical. Just hooked up my amp to the battery in the trunk. It super easy because the battery was right there in the tire well. No need to run fat power cables through the firewall into the engine compartment.

What Amp are you running?
(RMS and Peak Power)

[SPONGE]

I know it seems like a no brainer by going with the larger amp however I'm trying to convince myself that my concerns are minor, mute or non existent. Lol

Pioneer Concerns:
May require the big three.
The Pioneer will draw more current stressing my battery and or Alternator.
Dim my interior / exterior lights
size demands in my trunk. I utilize my trunk often and the amp is significantly bigger than the kicker in addition to the enclosure.

Pros for Pioneer:
It has sufficient headroom.
Powerful.
No need to upgrade amp only speaker if desired.

Kicker concerns:
Not enough headroom causing the amp to possibly run hotter if constantly pushed.

Pros for Kicker:
Smaller footprint in trunk.
Less demand on the power system due to the fact its less powerful than the pioneer.
I can upgrade and get 2 new speakers or add an additional box bridged on the other free channels.

[naiku]

I highly doubt you will need to do any electrical upgrade with the Pioneer, I run 2 amps and a processor and have never had any lights dim. Don't forget you will not have the Pioneer gain all the way up, so while it can go down to 1 ohm and put out a lot of power, you are likely to be in either 4 or 2 ohm and have the gains down. Even at 4ohm you will only have the gain at about 50% for it not to destroy your sub.

If you are looking at upgrading the other speakers and running them on the other 2 channels, then that is about the only point I would consider the Kicker.

[subterFUSE]

What Amp are you running?
(RMS and Peak Power)

Audison Voce AV5.1k 5-channel amp runs the entire system.

The amp is rated as follows:

2 x 75W @ 4 ohm
2 x 140W @ 4 ohm
1 x 1000W @ 2 ohm

Consumption @ 14.4 VDC is 110 Amps.



Build log here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/581650-2013-Audi-S6-Audio-Install

I'm running a pair of Eric Stevens Ultra horns, a pair of Beyma 8G40 midbass, and 2 Dynaudio Esotar 1200 subwoofers.

[subterFUSE]

I highly doubt you will need to do any electrical upgrade with the Pioneer, I run 2 amps and a processor and have never had any lights dim. Don't forget you will not have the Pioneer gain all the way up, so while it can go down to 1 ohm and put out a lot of power, you are likely to be in either 4 or 2 ohm and have the gains down. Even at 4ohm you will only have the gain at about 50% for it not to destroy your sub.

If you are looking at upgrading the other speakers and running them on the other 2 channels, then that is about the only point I would consider the Kicker.

I agree, go with the Pioneer. It is generally better to have a strong amp playing below its maximum potential than to have a weaker amp playing near the peak of its ability.

Turn ON the subsonic filter, too. Your sealed box won't be able to play down to 20Hz anyway, so no reason to amplify below that.

[SPONGE]

Cool... Thank you for the feedback. Much appreciated. Pulling the trigger shortly. GOing to order the Audio Control LC2I online for a discounted price.

I have been recommend stinger wires.

Any other recommendations i should look into. The pioneer have 1/0 Guage Power Terminals.

THe pro shop said they have either metra or Jl wires.
Metra is $100 installed
vs
JL I have to come in for pricing (meaning close to $200 or $250 I'm suspecting.)

[SPONGE]

How much should I sell my Kicker zx650.4?
The exterior has seen better days because I had it a while but it still pumps and wasn't abused.

[naiku]

How much should I sell my Kicker zx650.4?
The exterior has seen better days because I had it a while but it still pumps and wasn't abused.

Looking on eBay and without seeing pictures of yours, it looks like anywhere from $100 - $150. Cheapest on there was $150+ shipping but the outside looked in good shape.

[SPONGE]

Cool. good to know i had the appropriate range. Thanks Naiku