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View Full Version : New crate motor from INA engineering. Daily driver for now build to come.



swaser18t
03-04-2014, 10:13 PM
I'm new to Audi, had a few VW 95 vr 00 jetta 1.8t. Anyways here is my story and a long slow build. I will start off by saying my knowledge about motor building is sub par. Thankfully I have meet Lucas aka REDLINE380. I had a slight melt down with the car and he stepped up from MNAudi and has helped me this far. So give this man big shout out...

Got a 99.5 1.8tmq about 6 months ago. 158k miles.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/a8amaje6.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/ygetatu4.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/magepa8a.jpg

Mods...
Not sure on the tune. AEB boosting 17ish 93 tune. Has a button under the dash to switch to 100 or 110 not sure.*Forge 007 DV. Test pipe. 2.5 inch to manaflow res. To magnaflow exhaust. Sounds great! Eibach pro Street coilovers.

Interior/exterior
Sport cloth seats. I self wrapped carbon belt trim. (Ole man owns a vinyl graphics company.) All red euro tails...
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/sa6ymuma.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/upa5a5y5.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/edy2y4u3.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/jygy6uvy.jpg
Soon to wrap the whole car. Thinking a flat metallic blue???

About a month ago I started having cold start problems. Would crank forever then finally it would start really rough. A week later it would not start to the point of killing the battery. Jumped it and started very rough and through a CEL. Cam position sensor. With the suggestion from Redline380 to at least get it running I Pulled one off a Passat and same thing started ran rough for a bit then mellowed out. At that point I had no where to turn so I drove it up to Minneapolis in limp mode to a local vw shop. They came back with bad compression in all 4. They wanted to pull the head to see? Not a chance in hell could I afford to have a shop pull the head to tell me rebuild time and pay shop price to build???? So I had the car towed back to south st Paul. I was almost to the point of junking the car and giving up till Redline380 stepped up.
He came to my dads friends building where we have use of a lift.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/u4unerum.jpg
It started right up and Metal SLAP SLAP SLAP. He thought maybe cam chain tensioner. Any which way the head had to come off. Put the motor to TDC made sure timing marks lined up. And this is what we found.
Pistons where not TDC. No teeth broke on belt no teeth broke on sprockets

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/aza9atuv.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/ugu7eny8.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/y5y6ybar.jpg
Well now what?!?!?!?
Lucas brought up the fact no matter what might as well tear down the rest of the motor and possibly rebuild it.
The next night when Lucas got there his first goal was to get the bolt off the crankshaft sprocket since its hella tq down. Set up with his big ass pry and about killed himself. The dole dropped right out and it spun off.
Hard to see in this pic but the keyhole was rounded outhttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/5y6ese3e.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/6eryhequ.jpg
:thumbdown: :banghead:

Well let's pull the block then. Hmmm where did I put those chains. Oh well let's use some ground wire.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/jubuvy7e.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/9emety4u.jpg
After pulling everything. I will need a complete build probably new crankshaft for sure a bore and pistons blah blah blah. Keep in mind this is my daily driver. My choices. Buy a built motor. Buy another high milage motor stick a bunch of money into it to get it going and to last for awhile to recover$$$$ or? I ended up getting a good deal on a new "not remanufactured" Crate motor with a one year 12k warranty
I needed something fast to get me back on the road. Couldn't wait for machine shop turn around. So I pulled the trigger on the crate. It just came in tonight
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/9are2u2e.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/baheqehu.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/u3y9are9.jpg
Hope to have it running tomorrow night or Friday. Got a few things done tonight :beer:
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/uvysa4e4.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/bagupysa.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/yte2ebut.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/upaza4y7.jpg
Started to put together the new RA4 clutch kit and ran into a problem with the pilot bearing being the wrong size. Come to find out from Issam at INA I need a 2.8 pilot bearing. Going to pick one up tomorrow or have a buddy through the s4 one on a lathe and trim the cap off. I will keep the crate install up to date if anyone cares lol.
Thought suggestions comments more than welcome.

Short term goal. goals are to more than likely put a frankenturbo set up set to low boost on the crate after a couple few thousand miles.

Long term more than likely stroke the old block and do the head. Not sure what to do with turbo set up. I want more power through out the band than just 4500-5k oh there it is power.

But as of now can't wait to get my baby back on the road and break her in :eek:




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B5A4coastie
03-05-2014, 02:11 AM
I always wanted a create motor...... just remember with a new motor, turbo, or clutch there's a break in period. It'll suck but the first 750-1k miles should be babied.

Koldham
03-05-2014, 04:46 AM
dont baby it to much, you want the rings to wear in. some load while the rings are new is good.

M-Hood
03-05-2014, 05:10 AM
Started to put together the new RA4 clutch kit and ran into a problem with the pilot bearing being the wrong size. Come to find out from Issam at INA I need a 2.8 pilot bearing. Going to pick one up tomorrow or have a buddy through the s4 one on a lathe and trim the cap off. I will keep the crate install up to date if anyone cares lol.
Thought suggestions comments more than welcome.



Just asking but why do you need a 2.8 pilot bearing and why is the one you have the wrong size, did it not fit into the crank flange?

walky_talky20
03-05-2014, 05:25 AM
So you have an automatic crank in that thing, right? That's what is necessitating the 2.8 pilot bearing I assume.

swaser18t
03-05-2014, 05:27 AM
Just asking but why do you need a 2.8 pilot bearing and why is the one you have the wrong size, did it not fit into the crank flange?

No the one I have does not fit. There is a sleeve in there that per Issam at INA says needs to be removed. That's where the confusion comes into play. When I bought the motor from INA Engineering the add said for sale crate motor for MANUAL TRANNY. Issam from INA said it was a "NEW NOT REMANUFACTURED motor for manual. But right on the crate it says for auto. Also on the block the yellow sticker say REMANUFACTURED IN CANADA.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/05/2uhuma6e.jpg
So Issam says to pull that sleeve and put in a 2.8 pilot bearing after cutting the cap of the bearing. I have an email into Issam about all of this

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swaser18t
03-05-2014, 05:31 AM
So you have an automatic crank in that thing, right? That's what is necessitating the 2.8 pilot bearing I assume.

Ding ding ding we have a winner.

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swaser18t
03-05-2014, 05:32 AM
So you have an automatic crank in that thing, right? That's what is necessitating the 2.8 pilot bearing I assume.

Walky didn't you do the same thing? How did it work out for you?

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M-Hood
03-05-2014, 05:47 AM
Ding ding ding we have a winner.

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Ok, was just wondering why seeing you didn't mention in your other post that you had bought a motor for a Automatic car.

swaser18t
03-05-2014, 05:52 AM
Ok, was just wondering why seeing you didn't mention in your other post that you had bought a motor for a Automatic car.

I was under the impression that it was manual per INA

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walky_talky20
03-05-2014, 07:36 AM
Yes, I used a 2.8 pilot bearing. It is still working well. I cut the cap off the back and installed backwards.

The information for that work-around was not very available when I did my 5MT swap. I'm wondering if Issam knew of this trick prior to my 5MT swap thread. And if so, if he has had long-term success with that method. To my knowledge, my photos of the 2.8 bearing installed in a 1.8T Auto crank are the only ones on the internet.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b154/walky_talky20/DSC04994.jpg

EDIT: Well, the only pre-2012 photos. MikeWire has some good photos here.
http://forums.bigskyeuro.com/viewtopic.php?f=79&t=3235&start=50

redline380
03-05-2014, 07:45 AM
Yes, I used a 2.8 pilot bearing. It is still working well. I cut the cap off the back and installed backwards.

The information for that work-around was not very available when I did my 5MT swap. I'm wondering if Issam knew of this trick prior to my 5MT swap thread. And if so, if he has had long-term success with that method. To my knowledge, my photos of the 2.8 bearing installed in a 1.8T Auto crank are the only ones on the internet.

[IMG]http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b154/walky_talky20/DSC04994.jpg[/IG]

Yeah I am currently reading your thread walky. You wouldn't happen to know how far the bearing sticks out from the crank would you? I would have put the pilot bearing in much further without looking at your thread

swaser18t
03-05-2014, 08:07 AM
Walky how long have you had this set up running?

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walky_talky20
03-05-2014, 09:49 AM
This April it will have been in for 3 years, and I've put about 60k miles on the car.

@Redline: I measured the offset of the stock 1.8T bearing in a manual crank (distance between front edge of rollers and crank bolt-up surface), and then aimed for that with my V6 bearing. And then I seated it in a little further to be safe. Final install depth is what you see in the photos. I also did a test-fit of the tranny, without flywheel or clutch - just to see the input shaft penetration of the bearing. I paint-marked the input shaft and looked in with a flashlight through holes in the bell-housing to make sure the bearing swallowed enough of the shaft.

redline380
03-05-2014, 10:15 AM
how much, as in length , of the OD of the bearing esposed? looks about 3/8 or 1/2 inch

outsider6661
03-05-2014, 10:34 AM
I was under the impression that it was manual per INA

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Hope you get this all sorted out.

swaser18t
03-05-2014, 10:39 AM
Why am I not shocked by this statement [facepalm]. Hope you get this all sorted out.

That's reassuring. I have had no response back about how Issam will make this right. I feel that since he mis advertised his product that he needs to correct this and make his customer happy. As of now I am doubting its even a brand new motor.
As far as the auto to manual conversion I have no choice bit to use an s4 pilot bearing

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outsider6661
03-05-2014, 10:46 AM
..............

swaser18t
03-05-2014, 10:53 AM
Yeah that's Issam alright. The same jack ass who told me that JE pistons suck and recommended and sold me mahle pistons for my A4 knowing full well of my build and what kind of power I was running. Only to have #1 piston melt and and burn the ductile iron sleeve and F my motor. ****** sold me cast pistons. Don't hold your breath with him there's a reason you don't see him posting on here anymore...

Wow yeah that makes me feel great. Yeah starting to feel like I've been lied to all the way through. Bought a manual crank not an auto. Got an auto. Said auto right on the damn crate. Was told it was a brand new not remanufactured motor but Audi stick says origin Germany remanufactured in Canada. Bill of lading even says one USED MOTOR

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outsider6661
03-05-2014, 11:00 AM
Best of luck to you, hope you get it sorted out and you enjoy your car again

swaser18t
03-05-2014, 11:31 AM
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/420402-Issam-of-INA-get-back-to-me-Im-tried-of-these-games

this was the last time I really seen him post on here. circa 2011. I'm sorry to hear that you got screwed by him, hopefully he's reading this and he will stand up and take responsibility in this case. Best of luck to you, hope you get it sorted out and you enjoy your car again

Thank you for this input. Man what a mess. All I can hope for is he does what is right. I'm in the retail industry and end of day if we mess up we do what it take to make the end user happy

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Wizard-of-OD
03-05-2014, 12:57 PM
Yes, I used a 2.8 pilot bearing. It is still working well. I cut the cap off the back and installed backwards.

The information for that work-around was not very available when I did my 5MT swap. I'm wondering if Issam knew of this trick prior to my 5MT swap thread. And if so, if he has had long-term success with that method. To my knowledge, my photos of the 2.8 bearing installed in a 1.8T Auto crank are the only ones on the internet.
We use to make adapters to convert the automatic hub to manual hub for $150 and when I sold a crate motor last year , your thread was referenced and it basically resulted in a "why did you sell me a hunk of steel for $150 when I couldve bought a pilot bearing for $10 and done it myself" so as I did last night to the OP and in the future , I will always reference your thread should anyone ask.

That's reassuring. I have had no response back about how Issam will make this right. I feel that since he mis advertised his product that he needs to correct this and make his customer happy. As of now I am doubting its even a brand new motor.
As far as the auto to manual conversion I have no choice bit to use an s4 pilot bearing
Apologies as I had to have our tech crack open one of the motors here for you so that we could compile all the images/pictures to the email you sent over 20 mins before you made this post , however ,you have a response now.
If you doubt it is a brand new motor aside from what you see infront your eyes then crack it open , take pictures for the forums and let them be the judge if it is "new" or "used".

p.s. I don't post on Audizine or forums in general because I simply don't have time. I am easily reachable through other outlets.

Diego I will call you shortly.

walky_talky20
03-05-2014, 01:05 PM
We use to make adapters to convert the automatic hub to manual hub for $150 and when I sold a crate motor last year , your thread was referenced and it basically resulted in a "why did you sell me a hunk of steel for $150 when I couldve bought a pilot bearing for $10 and done it myself" so as I did last night to the OP and in the future , I will always reference your thread should anyone ask.

Thanks for the insight. I'm glad that information was helpful to others. I apologize if it has negatively impacted your sales. That was not the intent.

I am very interested to see your adapter piece, though. I had considered getting an "insert" of sorts made for conversion, before I found the V6 bearing solution. Do you have any pictures of your adapter?

Wizard-of-OD
03-05-2014, 01:09 PM
Thanks for the insight. I'm glad that information was helpful to others. I apologize if it has negatively impacted your sales. That was not the intent.

I am very interested to see your adapter piece, though. I had considered getting an "insert" of sorts made for conversion, before I found the V6 bearing solution. Do you have any pictures of your adapter?
I am not bothered at all! If it can help the community out with a cheaper alternative then by all means post away. Thats how I started out here...
I have a solidwork and pdf file that i can send over to you for reference but the V6 pilot bearing works.

redline380
03-05-2014, 01:32 PM
Ill admit although the sticker on the engine does say remanufactured, the surfaces appear to be brand new.


I did not buy the engine, but I am installing it. My issue would be, and I'm sure Justin would agree, is that he was sold an engine that was represented as a manual crank. We both thought it was a manual crank. However, it is most assuredly an automatic crank. It would have been nice to know before he bought the engine

swaser18t
03-05-2014, 01:44 PM
Ill admit although the sticker on the engine does say remanufactured, the surfaces appear to be brand new.


I did not buy the engine, but I am installing it. My issue would be, and I'm sure Justin would agree, is that he was sold an engine that was represented as a manual crank. We both thought it was a manual crank. However, it is most assuredly an automatic crank. It would have been nice to know before he bought the engine

I agree. Just would of been nice to know. Issam I know you said thatbu told me but the fact is you didn't tell me or I would of been prepared for this. Did I not email you several times asking what is needed to bolt up and go. The only thing saving me from a full another day to get this running is that I bought a clutch kit that comes with an s4 bearing. Non of the local vw or Audi dealers have that part in stock. Again. It goes back to what I was told I was buying. In my eyes and others its misleading. How can you not see that. I guess it is what it is. Now just gotta get it running.

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redline380
03-05-2014, 01:57 PM
Hers the link to the posting I saw and recommended to Justin. And just in case the posting "disappears," I took a screen shot of the ad

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6910291-FS-Whole-or-Breaking-BRAND-NEW-AEB-1-8T-20V-CRATE-ENGINES-FROM-AUDI&highlight=AEB+head






http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv328/redline380/INA_zpsf2d4c0e3.png

swaser18t
03-05-2014, 02:00 PM
After looking at the motor and the pictures that issam sent me the motor does look to be brand new. I will give u that. But when a sticker says remanufactured and a bill of lading says used motor you start to wonder. As far as the bearing goes your add for the sale stated this

*Manual but can be modified for Automatic for an additional $150.
So can you see that is misleading when I'm expecting a manual crank to show up. If I indeed knew an auto was coming and that I needed a 2.8 bearing don't you think I would have had it taken care of since I asked many times what I need to bolt up and go.
I work in audio video. I wouldnt sell a device with only digital outputs and then say oh well you need a DAC digital to anolog to do this job right as in distributed audio goes. So yes in my eyes and since your post said manual crank I thought that's what I would of gotten


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Wizard-of-OD
03-05-2014, 02:27 PM
I agree. Just would of been nice to know. Issam I know you said thatbu told me but the fact is you didn't tell me or I would of been prepared for this. Did I not email you several times asking what is needed to bolt up and go.
Before you sent over payment you asked what you needed to do to get this into your A4. You were told the following:
- swap over manifolds & accessories
- Not to purchase the following parts since they were included in the crate from Audi:
This is what is coming with the crate:
Intake Manifold Gasket
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Dip stick funnel
Crankcase breather seal
- swap over the timing belt covers and back plates
- swap over oil filter housing etc.
- remove the bushing installed in the crank and install the pilot bearing

And no this was not done over email but rather over the phone when it should have done over email to avoid an issue like this not being documented. You were even walked through the timing belt back plate as that is going to be difficult to install without removing the timing belt. That being said , you received the crate motor the day were told you would have it. Of the 100+ crate motors INA has sold over the years I have never seen one come with a pilot bearing and this is the first time (not marketing bs) that anyone has complained about it so I sincerely apologize if you were mislead.
You have our contact # , give me a phone call if you wish.
Thanks.

swaser18t
03-05-2014, 02:38 PM
Before you sent over payment you asked what you needed to do to get this into your A4. You were told the following:
- swap over manifolds & accessories
- Not to purchase the following parts since they were included in the crate from Audi:
This is what is coming with the crate:
Intake Manifold Gasket
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Dip stick funnel
Crankcase breather seal
- swap over the timing belt covers and back plates
- swap over oil filter housing etc.
- remove the bushing installed in the crank and install the pilot bearing

And no this was not done over email but rather over the phone when it should have done over email to avoid an issue like this not being documented. You were even walked through the timing belt back plate as that is going to be difficult to install without removing the timing belt. That being said , you received the crate motor the day were told you would have it. Of the 100+ crate motors INA has sold over the years I have never seen one come with a pilot bearing and this is the first time (not marketing bs) that anyone has complained about it so I sincerely apologize if you were mislead.
You have our contact # , give me a phone call if you wish.
Thanks.

Just want to say that Issam has emailed me and we have worked this out. I in no way tried to knock you or INA. Yes package came on time thank you for that and with that being said Issam as offered to buy a 2.8 pilot bearing or help with refunding my time. We have worked out a deal and thank for that. Next step tonight is to cut down the s4 bearing and go from there

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swaser18t
03-05-2014, 08:41 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/06/ry8eqe2y.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/06/6eba8eju.jpg

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zandrew
03-05-2014, 09:57 PM
WTF??? I am tearing down my donor motor and it came from an automatic so I am guessing I get the joy of modding a pilot bearing to work.

Is there any other issues that need attention or swapped since I am going from a Passat Auto to Audi 5 speed quattro?

Sorry OP not trying to thread jack...

redline380
03-05-2014, 10:02 PM
WTF??? I am tearing down my donor motor and it came from an automatic so I am guessing I get the joy of modding a pilot bearing to work.

Is there any other issues that need attention or swapped since I am going from a Passat Auto to Audi 5 speed quattro?

Sorry OP not trying to thread jack...


Should just be the pilot bearing issue. I just pulled out the sleeve with a slide hammer and put in the modded v6 pilot bearing like walky did. I guess only time will tell if the solution works well for Justin, but it seemed like it would work fine before we put the engine in.

walky_talky20
03-06-2014, 06:04 AM
how much, as in length , of the OD of the bearing esposed? looks about 3/8 or 1/2 inch

Sorry, just caught this question.

I didn't measure it exactly, but I'd say 9 or 10mm. Something like that. I didn't want it hanging out too far that it might try to "walk" out of the hole.

M-Hood
03-06-2014, 06:21 AM
WTF??? I am tearing down my donor motor and it came from an automatic so I am guessing I get the joy of modding a pilot bearing to work.

Is there any other issues that need attention or swapped since I am going from a Passat Auto to Audi 5 speed quattro?

Sorry OP not trying to thread jack...


If you plan on running a single mass flywheel you can always use a sealed bearing that goes into the center opening in the flywheel, it is the bearing that is in the B5 Auto to manual transmission swap DIY write up (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/299543-Biketsai-s-DIY-Auto-to-Manual-Conversion?highlight=Auto+manual+swap) on this forum.


http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y69/volumebikec0/IMG_0966.jpg

zandrew
03-06-2014, 07:01 AM
Yeah Mike I have light weight flywheel and carbon fiber clutch from Cluth Net. I read in that thread he had to grind down the end of the crank though. That freaks me out a bit though that install does look clean.

swaser18t
03-06-2014, 07:29 AM
If you plan on running a single mass flywheel you can always use a sealed bearing that goes into the center opening in the flywheel, it is the bearing that is in the B5 Auto to manual transmission swap DIY write up (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/299543-Biketsai-s-DIY-Auto-to-Manual-Conversion?highlight=Auto+manual+swap) on this forum.


http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y69/volumebikec0/IMG_0966.jpg

Good idea...
We ended up using the S4 pilot bearing that came with the ra4 clutch kit. Cut the cap off of it and installed it backwards. Used my old crank and pilot bearing to mach up the depth. I'd say it sticks the same as walkys set up. Hopefully everything works out.
Motor is bolted up to the trans now. I'm working today but we will be back at it tonight

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Mad Cow
03-06-2014, 07:43 AM
I don't know about anyone else, but if I was sold a motor advertised specifically as "new not reman" and manual crank, but it was clearly labeled as a reman with an obviously auto crank, I'd be pissed. If the ad specifically stated that all the crate engines being sold are manual, I have a hard time believing that one of them somehow ended up being automatic without anyone along the chain realizing. And then there's the $150 dollar adaptor that allows you to run an auto crank in a manual car, or is it the other way around? Or are there two completely different $150 adaptors?

Not accusing anyone of lying here, but this don't add up. Either someone's lying or there's some serious miscommunications going on.

walky_talky20
03-06-2014, 07:52 AM
As for the new/reman discrepancy, this is a common thing. The manufacturer will have a reman program for an engine, but some of the engines delivered via this program will actually be brand new. For example when they have lots of new parts sitting around, and no good cores available for rebuild, or initially as they seed the reman channel, etc. Obviously Issam had the low-down on this and was able to get actual new engines that were labeled for the reman program. He knows what he has and sells them for what they are. Perhaps he should explain the labeling discrepancy, but other than that, you pay him for a new engine and that's what you get.

redline380
03-06-2014, 08:29 AM
Yeah, the price was decent and the engine is in my eyes every bit of brand new. Only thing is the whole auto/manual thing. And he could of done a much better job of describing the situation before Justin purchased it. Doesn't really matter at this point though. Hopefully it will be cranking over tonight

Wizard-of-OD
03-06-2014, 09:11 AM
As for the new/reman discrepancy, this is a common thing.
No matter how many times you explain it people are still going to draw there own conclusions. It does not matter what the part is branded as , it matters what it actually is and unfortunately we don't know until the parts actually arrive.

Yeah, the price was decent and the engine is in my eyes every bit of brand new. Only thing is the whole auto/manual thing. And he could of done a much better job of describing the situation before Justin purchased it. Doesn't really matter at this point though. Hopefully it will be cranking over tonight
You are correct. It should have done via email instead of vocally. Let me know if you need anymore help.
Issam

swaser18t
03-06-2014, 08:30 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/07/y5utaga2.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/07/vadebaru.jpg

And she is alive. It started right up. Working out a coolant leak from the tstat housing.
Top end sounds a little ticky. Going to go at it again tomorrow

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Seerlah
03-07-2014, 04:04 AM
Probably the lifters. It should go away after a while. Most likely would have gone away if you ran the engine till the oil warmed up. Lucas oil stabilizer fixes it also.

swaser18t
03-07-2014, 02:12 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/08/pudyhy8e.jpg
Empty lift. Man that's a good site
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/08/ruze7e5e.jpg

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redline380
03-07-2014, 02:32 PM
Yeah we put over 20 miles on it today. Sounded very smooth. Oil temp stayed below 225 and coolant was always right in the middle.

swaser18t
03-07-2014, 03:18 PM
I'm at 40 miles now. No change. Thing purrs

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walky_talky20
03-07-2014, 08:51 PM
That's great.

I can haz new engine, too?

redline380
03-07-2014, 09:00 PM
That's great.

I can haz new engine, too?


Sure, come and replace it with a built engine and a new turbo setup and I bet Justin would let you have the brand new motor!

He is thinking about building the old motor, but I am not sure if the crank is usable. If the key sheared before can the shop just weld it square again?

Seerlah
03-07-2014, 09:04 PM
I have an fsi crank that had dowel pins that sheared and slightly messed up the key way. I plan on using it on my next built (2.0). But...it isn't bad at all and the part from the crank gear will still fit into it perfect without being off. Here's a pic. Picked it up for a steal because of that. Was going to go with stronger dowel pins after drilling these out (would have had machinist do this) but now IE has the press fit gear I think won't cause an issue. Well, I hope it doesn't. But having it filled by a machinist is also not a bad idea. But...how much you think something like that would cost?

http://s27.postimg.org/bcuxd85df/DSC03959.jpg

http://s27.postimg.org/gkg0holyr/DSC03960.jpg

Wizard-of-OD
03-08-2014, 03:08 PM
I have an fsi crank that had dowel pins that sheared and slightly messed up the key way.
Those are not dowel pins , those are paper clips!

swaser18t
03-10-2014, 03:55 PM
Almost 300 miles on the motor and clutch. Everything is doing great. Had a chance to clean the dirty pig up today
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/11/neqa8yga.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/11/byrarujy.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/11/y3ynanag.jpg


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redline380
03-10-2014, 04:00 PM
The car looks much better clean! Did you give into temptation yet and give it some boost?

swaser18t
03-10-2014, 04:08 PM
Lol only had hit like 10 or 11 twice. I wanna wait longer.

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swaser18t
03-10-2014, 04:18 PM
Ah f it. I just rolled on 3rd hard. Buttery smooth power... But I might have a boost leak??? Only could hit 15 psi. Before it was hitting 18-19. Oh well I guess. Gonna baby it for another few hundred miles again. Lol felt good tho

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redline380
03-10-2014, 05:26 PM
We can check for leaks some time. Could be as simple as a loose clamp, but the dv piston spring seemed kind of weak

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swaser18t
03-10-2014, 05:45 PM
We can check for leaks some time. Could be as simple as a loose clamp, but the dv piston spring seemed kind of weak

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I did shim the piston when we had it out. I'll go over the clamps and maybe flip the dv the other way

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redline380
03-10-2014, 06:43 PM
I did shim the piston when we had it out. I'll go over the clamps and maybe flip the dv the other way

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Yeah, try flipping the DV around. I think I put it in the way the boost will push on the piston. If you flip it around and you get boost back you might need a bigger spring in there.


I personally think putting a DV in backwards is bad because the boost pressure might overcome the vacuum and hold the piston closed when it should be open. This is just a theroy, though.

swaser18t
03-10-2014, 06:44 PM
I'm not sure that you did it backwards. I remember a completely different sound in my jetta when I reversed it. But I'll give it a try.

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redline380
03-10-2014, 06:46 PM
I dont think I did it reverse style. Having the boost push on the piston would be the way a stock DV is setup.