PDA

View Full Version : Central Locking Issue and Lights Under Sun Visors 2000 1.8T Quattro



NewHere12
02-26-2014, 06:46 PM
I currently have a 2000 1.8T Quattro that I am trying to fix.

There are a couple issues which I can't resolve. The main being the Central locking system and having it consistently work. Pressing the lock and unlock button situated near the door handle opens and locks all doors without issue. Which leads me to believe that the vacuum system is OK and that the locking mechanism inside the pump hasn't shattered.

I've tried programming the keys multiple times with various methods and they sometimes work but slowly stop working all together. Ive changed the battery on the two remotes I have without any luck. After a long period of the remote keys not working at all, sometimes after driving the car a bit harder, the locking function will work on the remote but not the unlocking function. So it becomes intermittent in the lock button without the unlock button ever working.

I checked the wiring in the driver's door boot that sits between the body of the car and the door on the inside, as you open the door. The wires don't look particularly chewed up or broken, which I heard is an issue.

Is there anything else I can check or do? I haven't yet extended the remote range on the antenna that sits under the rear bumper but I did look near the pump on the trunk and the wiring looked fine.

Lastly, Ive changed the Sylvia 6418 bulbs that sit under the sunvisors but can't get them to light up. They should light up if the lights are on and the visors are down, correct? Is there anything I can check to fix that?

Appreciate the help, thanks!

MrSnickelsnizer
02-26-2014, 07:48 PM
Open your visor mirror cover....

NewHere12
02-27-2014, 05:52 AM
Open your visor mirror cover....

You would think, they won't work.

NewHere12
02-28-2014, 06:04 AM
Any ideas on the central locking issue?

gibbineT100
03-13-2014, 05:29 PM
Have you figured this out yet? Im having problems with my CLU too!

NewHere12
03-13-2014, 06:36 PM
No I haven't yet.

I tried extending the antenna which sits under the bumper the other day (on Model year 2000 A4 1.8t there is an antenna under the rear bumper behind the passenger wheel) but it didn't do anything.

I've check my actual pump as well, which in some cases may be water logged or the graphite mechanism may be shattered, don't think that is the problem as the area was relatively dry and the locks move up and down when accessed through the locks in the doors. I also checked the wiring in the rubber boot on the driver's door hinge area and it looked ok.

On VagCom the key adaptation limit was surpassed, but I cleared that code and still didn't have a result. It only sometimes intermittently locks the door with the remote key but never unlocks (did for a few tries previously when I tried adapting the keys using the valet).

Not sure what else to do. Check all the vacuum hoses and electrical lines I guess? I don't have a full version of VCDS to adapt the key that way and don't know how to test my remote to see if its sending a signal.

Let me know what you have tried and perhaps we can figure it out.

Wraith600
03-13-2014, 08:49 PM
I got my car with the driver side not working. When you open the visor you hear a click, which is the switch, if you can hear it and it's not working you can check the wiring up where it mounts. This requires you pulling it apart which is simple. There is a cap covering the screw where it mounts, unbolt it but don't let it drop. Hang on to it and carefully pull out the connection which is simple to unplug. Check to make sure it is in fact connected and no broken wires.

I got lucky, mine was perfect on as far as I could check, but still didn't work. So I decided to dig up a bit further in the roof and felt a edge where I suspected an exposed wire could potentially rub on and moved the wire off as much as I could. Put it all back together and it worked luckily. It still is working thankfully but if you do all of the above it's likely just a broken wire or it could be the switch failing in the visor unit.

I swapped mine with a parts car I had access to because it was in better shape but still didn't work after the initial swap. It wasn't until I got into the wiring a bit further up in the roof by feeling around that I got it working again. It will fail one day I am sure but there isn't anything else I could access easily. The wire is very thin and fine so be careful pulling it apart.

NewHere12
03-14-2014, 07:51 AM
Thanks Wraith600. That sounds exactly like my problem. I do hear the click of the visor but the light does not come on. I'll follow your instructions and see if I can get it working again, appreciate the write up.

I'll keep the thread informed as well to the central locking issue, if I figure it out.

mysman
03-14-2014, 08:01 AM
On the visor light, you may have accidentally shorted the bulb holder against the body during the R&R, thus blowing the fuse.

Ducktool
03-14-2014, 10:27 PM
On the central locking, check the vacuum lines at the pump. I had a friends car have an intermittent issue as well with it. The reason being the lines weren't secured on the pump all the way, causing them to jiggle about while driving. The plastic pinch clips can break causing a possible poor seal.

Also if you can, swap out the pump if all else fails. It's not the best option but if you know someone with another a4, borrow theirs just to eliminate the possibility of a bad pump.

Sent from my HTC6500LVW

gibbineT100
03-15-2014, 08:56 AM
No I haven't yet.

I tried extending the antenna which sits under the bumper the other day (on Model year 2000 A4 1.8t there is an antenna under the rear bumper behind the passenger wheel) but it didn't do anything.

I've check my actual pump as well, which in some cases may be water logged or the graphite mechanism may be shattered, don't think that is the problem as the area was relatively dry and the locks move up and down when accessed through the locks in the doors. I also checked the wiring in the rubber boot on the driver's door hinge area and it looked ok.

On VagCom the key adaptation limit was surpassed, but I cleared that code and still didn't have a result. It only sometimes intermittently locks the door with the remote key but never unlocks (did for a few tries previously when I tried adapting the keys using the valet).

Not sure what else to do. Check all the vacuum hoses and electrical lines I guess? I don't have a full version of VCDS to adapt the key that way and don't know how to test my remote to see if its sending a signal.

Let me know what you have tried and perhaps we can figure it out.
I pulled my CLU out of my car yesterday and found that the board and chips wete all chard with black soot. Strange because my alarm and locks still work. I'd post some pics, but im new to the forum and haven't figured how to do it yet.

Ducktool
03-15-2014, 09:03 AM
The black soot you are mentioning is from the graphite mechanisms inside the pump. It's nothing bad if everything still is functioning correctly though.

Sent from my HTC6500LVW

NewHere12
03-16-2014, 06:02 PM
Maybe another piece to solve this puzzle: During the process of trying to adapt the remote to the car what I do is leave the valet key in the ignition to the 'ON' position and then take the key to be programmed to the driver's door lock and manually lock the door. So the next part I believe calls for you to press the unlock button once, then wait 10 seconds and press it again. When doing this, the car will actually unlock it self.

So this leads me to believe that there isn't a vacuum problem as well and perhaps its just electrical. I checked the fuse box as well and found one fuse that was lower (15A) in the Central Locking fuse slot and replaced that with the correct 20A fuse but it did not solve the problem. Also have a tough time trying to adapt the key to the car and that may be the issue.

I have yet to try the fix for the overhead light, will do so sometime this coming week and update the thread.

Wraith600
03-16-2014, 08:28 PM
The wrong fuse won't matter as that's just protection basically, you could have a 5 amp in there if the circuit doesn't demand more than that as an example. Perhaps your FOB is the problem and your over thinking this.

Does that car unlock with the key being used in the driver side door? Forget the remote for now. If it does 100 percent of the time, it's just simply your remote.

When the car unlocks's itself I believe that's a time out feature when programming a new fob if it doesn't read / learn properly. I have had one of my fob's I didn't use in like a year stop working randomly but it did reprogram fine again. Key adaptation is a bit of a pain and you have to remember that the first time you hit the lock or unlock (I can't recall exactly) that's the memory location of your key. The car stores up to 4 keys. Perhaps your simply doing the whole process wrong because I know I have to search the forums again and read the steps.

NewHere12
03-17-2014, 05:31 AM
It could be the remote.

The unlock function on the remote works every time only when I am trying to program the key - so only when I am trying to go through the sequence of programming it. Otherwise it does not work and I can't tell whether 1) I haven't programmed it correctly 2) The remote doesn't work 3) Something wrong with the actual locking system in the car.

I had another remote (before the key broke off and I took it apart) that didn't correctly as well.

Wraith600
03-18-2014, 02:22 PM
I think you can clear all the stored keys in vagcom. Maybe try that and start from scratch.

MetalMan
03-18-2014, 03:33 PM
On the visor light: my driver's visor light doesn't really work, but passenger side does.

There are 2 switches in these visors: one on the mirror cover (that slides), and one in the hinge/pivot where the visor goes up/down. This 2nd switch makes it so you can have the mirror cover open, but when you put the visor up (either forward or into the headliner) then the light will turn off.

In my case the mirror cover switch works just fine. BUT the hinge/pivot switch is intermittent. I don't think this can be repaired... would likely require tearing apart the visor but that would likely damage it.