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TheShark
02-25-2014, 03:05 PM
well today i went to the DMV and after 4 hours of waiting i was turned away.. apparently the previous owner tried and failed emissions once already so when i went and failed they wouldn't give me the 60 days to fix the car.. they said they cant give me plates until i pass emissions.. I made the mistake of buying a premodded car... whoever built the car did some crazy things with the evap system etc.. I have a huge list of codes. Basically my options are buying temp plates one day at a time for 21 dollars per day... or fixing everything ASAP. I am a student and have a job but now i have no way of getting to school and work.. i tried calling emissions and they said they can't do anything. I guess i just have to start fixing things one at a time.. here's the list of codes i'm getting. any advice on the cheapest way to fix these things would be greatly appreciated.. the good news is CT doesn't do a look or sniff test. they only do the ecu test. anyway heres the codes. any advice would be greatly appreciated.. im pretty much screwed right now

18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 35-10 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent

18089 - Control Module Programming Not Finished
P1681 - 35-00 -

17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80)
P1426 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75)
P1548 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

17880 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump
P1472 - 35-00 - Short to Ground

16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 35-00 - Signal too Low

16518 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
P0134 - 35-00 - No Activity

17604 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heater Circuit: B1 S1
P1196 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction

17606 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heater Circuit: B1 S2
P1198 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction

16524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2
P0140 - 35-00 - No Activity

17967 - Throttle Body (J338)
P1559 - 35-10 - Fault in basic settings - Intermittent

17967 - Throttle Body (J338)
P1559 - 35-10 - Fault in basic settings - Intermittent

sa_seahawker
02-25-2014, 03:17 PM
First step should always be to clear DTCs and rerun to see what pops up. A lot of times code will be thrown when something is wrong but won't necessarily clear itself. ECU often stores the codes requiring a manual clear.

But really need to buy a VCDS cable. It will pay for itself the first time you use it.

walky_talky20
02-25-2014, 04:36 PM
well today i went to the DMV and after 4 hours of waiting i was turned away.. apparently the previous owner tried and failed emissions once already so when i went and failed they wouldn't give me the 60 days to fix the car.. they said they cant give me plates until i pass emissions.. I made the mistake of buying a premodded car... whoever built the car did some crazy things with the evap system etc.. I have a huge list of codes. Basically my options are buying temp plates one day at a time for 21 dollars per day... or fixing everything ASAP. I am a student and have a job but now i have no way of getting to school and work.. i tried calling emissions and they said they can't do anything. I guess i just have to start fixing things one at a time.. here's the list of codes i'm getting. any advice on the cheapest way to fix these things would be greatly appreciated.. the good news is CT doesn't do a look or sniff test. they only do the ecu test. anyway heres the codes. any advice would be greatly appreciated.. im pretty much screwed right now

18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 35-10 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent

18089 - Control Module Programming Not Finished
P1681 - 35-00 -

17834 - EVAP Purge Valve (N80)
P1426 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75)
P1548 - 35-00 - Open Circuit

17880 - EVAP Leak Detection Pump
P1472 - 35-00 - Short to Ground

16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 35-00 - Signal too Low

16518 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S1
P0134 - 35-00 - No Activity

17604 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heater Circuit: B1 S1
P1196 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction

17606 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heater Circuit: B1 S2
P1198 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction

16524 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2
P0140 - 35-00 - No Activity

17967 - Throttle Body (J338)
P1559 - 35-10 - Fault in basic settings - Intermittent

17967 - Throttle Body (J338)
P1559 - 35-10 - Fault in basic settings - Intermittent

The codes in bold point to Fuse #29 being blown.

TheShark
02-25-2014, 04:46 PM
The codes in bold point to Fuse #29 being blown.

The funny thing is, i checked that.. the fuse was blown. i replaced it then the car wouldnt stay running. it woulds start but if i take my foot off the gas it would just die.

viceprp
02-25-2014, 04:53 PM
I didn't read your other thread entirely but did you ever find out what the tune was?

redline380
02-25-2014, 04:57 PM
That's a shit list of codes. Im surprised the car runs at all.

I'd think you have a short somewhere, or perhaps something wrong with the ecu. Have you checked the harness at all to see any breaks in the wiring? Or how about the ecu connection itself?

I highly doubt you have all these codes for individual issues. I would guess one singular issue, and the fact #29 was blown and runs worse when replaced supports that idea

TheShark
02-25-2014, 04:58 PM
I didn't read your other thread entirely but did you ever find out what the tune was?

Eurodyne 630cc tune

walky_talky20
02-25-2014, 05:00 PM
Did the fuse blow again? Or did you not clear the codes yet?

TheShark
02-25-2014, 05:00 PM
That's a shit list of codes. Im surprised the car runs at all.

I'd think you have a short somewhere, or perhaps something wrong with the ecu. Have you checked the harness at all to see any breaks in the wiring? Or how about the ecu connection itself?

I highly doubt you have all these codes for individual issues. I would guess one singular issue, and the fact #29 was blown and runs worse when replaced supports that idea

I just looked at my ecu wiring and sure enough a thick black wire seems to be cut.......... im so confused. yeah i replaced #29 and the car wouldn't stay running.. it was so weird.

viceprp
02-25-2014, 05:00 PM
So why not delete the codes for the SAI?

TheShark
02-25-2014, 05:03 PM
So why not delete the codes for the SAI?

how do i go about doing that.. haha sorry im new to all this

redline380
02-25-2014, 05:04 PM
how do i go about doing that.. haha sorry im new to all this

SAI is least of your worries at this point, and may affect emissions.

You are going to need a harness diagram.

sa_seahawker
02-25-2014, 05:22 PM
how do i go about doing that.. haha sorry im new to all this

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/hex-usb+can.html

^You'll pay $350 now but you'll use it throughout the life of your car...

You can run real-time diagnostics, read/clear more detailed codes. Until you clear the codes and rerun it, you will be shooting in the dark. Because fixing these cars can be so damn expensive, having as much intel into a problem is great...

ray4624
02-25-2014, 05:29 PM
http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/VCKII.html
would that one work aswell?
hundred bucks less

TheShark
02-25-2014, 06:04 PM
I still dont get what would cause the engine to stall out and die when fuse 29 is replaced... my only guess would be that my MAF is messed up. because if i unplug the MAF it idles without dying but when i press the gas it will die.. its so weird. I think I am gonna try purchasing the a MAF and then go from there.

redline380
02-25-2014, 07:38 PM
Didn't we already talk about the MAF on the other thread? And you still didn't get a known good one?

AudiB5owner
02-25-2014, 07:45 PM
VCDS is free, just buy a $8 KKL (OBD2) USB cable and hook it up to your computer. We have a K line so no nonsence with the CANBUS hex systems.

1. That's crazy that your smog technician does no visual inspection, tell me where to go lol.
2. You may have an O2 sensor and EVAP delete. Hard for me to tell.
3. It would probably be beneficial to clear all the codes and see what comes back since this was your first scan in who knows how long.

walky_talky20
02-25-2014, 08:05 PM
I still dont get what would cause the engine to stall out and die when fuse 29 is replaced... my only guess would be that my MAF is messed up. because if i unplug the MAF it idles without dying but when i press the gas it will die.. its so weird. I think I am gonna try purchasing the a MAF and then go from there.

These symptoms definitely sound Air Metering related. The ECU is not seeing correct values from the MAF. So either:

A: Your MAF is bad
B: Your MAF (or MAF housing) is incorrect for the software
C: Your software is whack

I'm really leaning toward A. I can't remember what we came up with regarding the MAF type discussion in your previous thread. If you had just made one thread instead of 2, I would just scroll up and see. But I can't.

Anyway, if you expect to do ANY level of DIY fixing for running problems, you must have access to VCDS. It's not really optional unless you are just going to pay somebody else to fix it. And then you're limited to speed shops because no regular mechanic is going to touch that mess.

TheShark
02-27-2014, 05:26 AM
These symptoms definitely sound Air Metering related. The ECU is not seeing correct values from the MAF. So either:

A: Your MAF is bad
B: Your MAF (or MAF housing) is incorrect for the software
C: Your software is whack

I'm really leaning toward A. I can't remember what we came up with regarding the MAF type discussion in your previous thread. If you had just made one thread instead of 2, I would just scroll up and see. But I can't.

Anyway, if you expect to do ANY level of DIY fixing for running problems, you must have access to VCDS. It's not really optional unless you are just going to pay somebody else to fix it. And then you're limited to speed shops because no regular mechanic is going to touch that mess.

I'm definitely gonna buy VCDS in the near future, and as far as the MAF goes... I ordered the correct MAF, i just can't find where to get the harness and wires i need to change the connector from the 4 pin to 5 pin

Corrado_Guy
02-27-2014, 06:37 PM
It is Maestro, if you remove the MAF then it switches over to the MAF-less configuration and it should run decently. If they haven't tuned the car properly then no MAF in the world is going to help you. I drive mine with and without the MAF and it does change the way the car runs somewhat because it is running off of the O2 only but it shouldn't be huge. With Maestro you have to make sure Switching Active is turned on in the quick tune and that it is running the proper MAF for the tune. You can't go out and buy the proper MAF for the car because it needs to be the proper MAF for the tune or the scaling will be off. Tuned cars are fun, I hope you like either learning or paying because you will probably be doing one or the other.

Make sure the car is off and the keys are out of the ignition and then unplug the primary O2 sensor and see how the car runs. If you are getting similar behaviour with and without the MAF plugged in then I would imagine it is something else.

jerrone
02-27-2014, 07:04 PM
Hey I have Vag-Com, with the official vcds cable.

but I also have an extra KKL cable, if you're interested.



If this is a car that you're willing to embark on such journey for, then I highly recommend being equipped with Vag-com.
Otherwise, you're kind of taking shots in the dark.