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View Full Version : Car overheating not sure why.



ZDespreaux
02-22-2014, 05:29 PM
Alright guys I had another thread about my Tstat not opening up here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/576887-Can-t-get-thermostat-to-open-tested-good

So this is a quick outline of everything maybe if I put it together neatly someone can help me.

In college head coolant flange leaking during warmer weather adding a little water to my coolant figured I could fix it when I get home as I had no tools with me at the time, some water freezes in the lower rad hose and connect to the block unthaw it and the hosing is leaking water everywhere get the car towed home.

Got a new T-stat, tested it and it opened up, got a new T-stat housing and O-ring and bolts put together then head coolant flange is leaking really bad.

Fixed the head coolant flange new bolts O-ring flange driving back home and starts overheating look into it and didn't bleed the system so I took it back to the garage I have access to drained everything out filled it back up and tried every bleeding method possible absolutely no luck.

Pull the water pump and it spins, not like flick my finger and it spins 100 times but if I keep spinning it it keeps going otherwise it stops. Seems okay I thought please let me know if you think otherwise.

Put everything back together and still no luck, dad says something about the floor being wet so he thinks faulty heater core, I had heat at certain points in the bleeding process btw but the bottom rad hose would not get hot and if it did when I took it down the road not even a mile it would over heat.

So I block off the heater core and still no luck so we take out the T-stat blocked off heater core bleed the system and it would still over heat. I'm at a complete loss here you guys have any ideas?

TIA

J Ozzie
02-22-2014, 07:17 PM
Id say faulty T stat / Water Pump.

With out those working perfect... your going to have the issues you have.

thermostate82
02-22-2014, 07:33 PM
Blown head gasket or cracked head?

ZDespreaux
02-22-2014, 08:25 PM
Well that's why I tried taking the T stat out and checked the water pump I'm under the assumption that as long as it spun and the metal impellers were fine it should be okay. Am I wrong in assuming that?

And I thought the HG or cracked head might be it but it's been run for quite a few hours and no signs of murky oil or coolant.

BlackLock_A4
02-23-2014, 10:19 AM
You already replaced the T stat. Next step is to replace the water pump.

Sorry, I don't know how new/ used ones should spin either.

ZDespreaux
02-23-2014, 10:25 AM
Yeah I also think that is the next step. One question I have about that though is during the bleeding process I had the bleed hole open and if I would rev the car the coolant would shoot out of the hole with a lot of force

Boost'd
02-23-2014, 10:28 AM
Replace the pump. If you are that far as to taking it off, you should just replace it to cover your basics.

BlackLock_A4
02-23-2014, 10:58 AM
Yeah I also think that is the next step. One question I have about that though is during the bleeding process I had the bleed hole open and if I would rev the car the coolant would shoot out of the hole with a lot of force

I don't see the question in here. But yes, that is the correct way. Pull the hose off just enough to give the hole a little freedom. Then when you rev it, it should blow out the air bubble and start squirting out in spurts. After a few seconds, you will get a steady stream - this is when you slide the hose back on and tighten it up. It sound's like you are doing it correct.

I'm also assuming you're using the correct hoses between the two 'fire walls' which connect to the heater core.

ZDespreaux
02-23-2014, 11:02 AM
I don't see the question in here. But yes, that is the correct way. Pull the hose off just enough to give the hole a little freedom. Then when you rev it, it should blow out the air bubble and start squirting out in spurts. After a few seconds, you will get a steady stream - this is when you slide the hose back on and tighten it up. It sound's like you are doing it correct.

I'm also assuming you're using the correct hoses between the two 'fire walls' which connect to the heater core.


Sorry the question was if that was happen would the water pump be bad? And the thing is I would never get it to the point of a steady stream it would shoot out then steam then add more coolant and shoot out again.

ZDespreaux
03-16-2014, 10:48 AM
Will be home to work on it more tomorrow. Any more input would be great and an answer to whethere or nor coolant would shoot out with a lot of pressure if the water pump was bad would be great.