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View Full Version : to hone or not to hone?



MrSnickelsnizer
02-15-2014, 12:53 PM
So I am looking for any solid input on whether I should rehone my cylinders on my 1.8t motor aeb. I removed the head to replace the head gasket due to over heating (entirely my fault) any way before I removed the head I performed a compression check on all cylinders and got great numbers across the board. Anyways I noticed there is some slight scuffing on all the cylinder walls on the left and right sides. Is this okay? Should I take it out and get it honed? It doesn't look that bad just not as shiny as the rest of the cylinder. I am borrowing a car right now and need to get mine back together asap but would like to put it back together right. Will it hurt anything leaving it as is? Also some shit fell down into the gaps between the cylinder and walls how do i get that stuff out? Brake cleaner or compressed air or vaccum?Thanks guys.

BaseDrifter
02-15-2014, 01:15 PM
If you can catch a finger nail on it, then it should be honed.

Sickws6
02-15-2014, 04:47 PM
So I am looking for any solid input on whether I should rehone my cylinders on my 1.8t motor aeb. I removed the head to replace the head gasket due to over heating (entirely my fault) any way before I removed the head I performed a compression check on all cylinders and got great numbers across the board. Anyways I noticed there is some slight scuffing on all the cylinder walls on the left and right sides. Is this okay? Should I take it out and get it honed? It doesn't look that bad just not as shiny as the rest of the cylinder. I am borrowing a car right now and need to get mine back together asap but would like to put it back together right. Will it hurt anything leaving it as is? Also some shit fell down into the gaps between the cylinder and walls how do i get that stuff out? Brake cleaner or compressed air or vaccum?Thanks guys.
Pics? I wouldn't go through the trouble my self to tear down the whole block unless you plan on doing a complete rebuild.

MrSnickelsnizer
02-15-2014, 10:30 PM
I had my lady friend run her finger across the scuffs and she said she could barely feel any scratches but a little something maybe.. As for a full rebuild it is not exactly in the budget or time frame unfortunately. No new rings or rods or rod bearings unless needed. Just a generic clean up and good enough rebuild to get me by for a while. Here are some pics. I will get better ones hopefully tomorrow.

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s444/MrSnickelsnizer/C360_2014-02-14-19-50-52-733_zps2c936015.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/MrSnickelsnizer/media/C360_2014-02-14-19-50-52-733_zps2c936015.jpg.html)
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s444/MrSnickelsnizer/C360_2014-02-14-20-02-06-307_zpsb9d294c7.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/MrSnickelsnizer/media/C360_2014-02-14-20-02-06-307_zpsb9d294c7.jpg.html)

Sickws6
02-16-2014, 04:49 AM
Slap a HG on and go with it you should be good.

Seerlah
02-16-2014, 08:27 AM
Use a shop vac to get out debris.

MrSnickelsnizer
02-16-2014, 10:02 AM
So say if I was to remove the pistons and rods, can I reuse the rod bolts and nuts? And also can the block be honed without removing the crank and oil squirters? If so I might jump on the idea a little more. Never had to do anything quite this in depth on my motor. Thanks again everyone.

nynoah
02-16-2014, 10:08 AM
Many bolts are one time use. You will also need to buy new rings, you can not reuse old ones. You are opening a can of worms that it seems you don't want to deal with for money reasons. You either do it right or you make it worse.

Seerlah
02-16-2014, 10:10 AM
Yes, you can hone without removing the crank. I did was in the process of doing that with my block still in the car, when I goofed and scratched the bore. Sucked! I would not EVER reuse internal hardware unless it was ARP. But I could be wrong. Also the stock rods "must" stay with the caps that are on them, along with proper orientation. Be sure to keep them together when you take them off.

Honing is pretty simple. Here is a video on it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLeWALY28Xg&hd=1

As nynoah suggested, you should really research what it is you are requesting before proceeding. For example, now you have to deal with ring gapping, clearance checking, and make sure you torque correctly. And if throwing stock rods back in, don't even waste your time.

MrSnickelsnizer
02-16-2014, 07:14 PM
Oh man that sucks to hear you biffed it when trying to hone it :/ but that guy in the video makes me feel so capable lol. But seriously that guy is hardcore. I have decided to let it run and just put a head gasket on after getting the head checked for flatness at the local carquest machine shop (Not that everyone was telling me to do that from the get go). I am still going to be pulling out the bottom end to replace the rear main seal and clutch while everything is apart. Hence why cash is a priority for me. Already have quite a bit invested and being a college student doesn't allow a lot of excess cashola. But I definetly know what you guys are saying. I don't want to go through all the work and waste a ton of time and money to get very basic results and possibly blowing up everything lol. Oh well. I might just buy a used block and attempt my hand on building it up over the summer, after more reading of course. Thanks again guys.

MrSnickelsnizer
02-25-2014, 10:28 PM
So another question to add on top of everything. I just reassembled the motor and it is back in the car and runs awesome. Everything is fine with the motor but I went ahead and installed ECS's RA4 clutch conversion kit while i had the block out. Problem is the clutch engages immediately and very hard when your foot even slightly moves off the clutch pedal. I drove it for two miles max and when i got back the clutch was definetely given off that wonderful smell we all dread and a little steam :/ So what can cause this? I put the flywheel on perfectly. Put pilot bearing in perfectly. The clutch disc was centered. The only thing I can think of is I somehow over torqued the clutch plate to flywheel (Could be my shitastic craftsman torque wrench..)? I also have not bled the clutch slave cylinder. I live right next door to a transmission shop but the guy is an asshole and played me off when I asked him to install a new clutch over last summer. I guess being 21 doesn't get you that much respect where I live. Any help would be appreciated greatly. By the way the engine revs like mad with that ECS flywheel.

ricekikr
02-26-2014, 01:09 AM
Did you remove the slave? Bleed clutch slave. Possibly has air.

Seerlah
02-26-2014, 03:39 AM
I use a digital Craftsman digital torque wrench. Never caused me an issue.

redline380
02-26-2014, 05:30 AM
is the rod properly seated in the fork?

MrSnickelsnizer
02-26-2014, 07:06 AM
I did not remove the slave but will bleed and remove it after classes today and make sure it it is seated right. Did remove the clutch fork but did put it back on right. And I just don't like my craftsman torque wrench. Have a couple of them and had to use that one.

MrSnickelsnizer
02-26-2014, 03:47 PM
Well I took out the slave cylinder but forgot that you need a pressure sucker to suck out the fluid :/ Have to borrow one from a friend first thing tomorrow. Till then my clutch pedal is stuck to the floor. But the slave did seem like it was properly seated on clutch fork, although there is no visibility to confirm that. I got on the horn with ECS to see if they had any explanation and they are going to ask one of their audi specialists tomorrow. So now I wait. I still suspect pressure plate but at least I can get the easy stuff out of the way. I can't wait to get back in it. Subaru forester till then and it just isn't the same.

MrSnickelsnizer
02-26-2014, 03:59 PM
And because everyone loves pictures why not. Found these on my phone and forgot they were there. Also can see my somewhat successful attempt at cleaning up the pistons with brake cleaner and a scrubby.
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s444/MrSnickelsnizer/IMG_20140216_193723_289_zps2d7f936a.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/MrSnickelsnizer/media/IMG_20140216_193723_289_zps2d7f936a.jpg.html)
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s444/MrSnickelsnizer/IMG_20140216_193522_447_zpsbe8d4066.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/MrSnickelsnizer/media/IMG_20140216_193522_447_zpsbe8d4066.jpg.html)
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s444/MrSnickelsnizer/C360_2014-02-22-22-45-08-578_zpsa783e76b.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/MrSnickelsnizer/media/C360_2014-02-22-22-45-08-578_zpsa783e76b.jpg.html)

MrSnickelsnizer
03-05-2014, 01:56 PM
So I attempted to bleed the clutch slave and failed. Apparently if you have someone hold down the pedal and then open the bleeder it just fucks up everything. So I have been attempting to gravity bleed the slave and am having no luck. I have the clutch pedal pulled out to where it would normally sit and have the bleeder valve open yet nothing will come out. I have attached my sucking device to the bleeder valve and tried that. It will not suck anything out nor hold pressure when I do try. It also doesn't help that I finally had it and asked that transmission guy three houses away and he pretty much told me to go f myself for even trying to do any clutch related work. Needless to say no mechanic around me can help and my only real mechanic friend has no idea why gravity bleeding is not working for me. Any suggestions on how to properly bleed this motha. My next attempt is going to be to run a hose from the bleeder while it is cracked into a thing of brake fluid and attach the sucking device to the line that runs off the brake reservoir to the master cylinder. Maybe that will work drawing the fluid up and out?

MetalMan
03-05-2014, 03:08 PM
How about using a power bleeder on the brake fluid reservoir? I've heard that many guys have been successful bleeding the slave when they apply 15-ish psi to the brake fluid reservoir.

MrSnickelsnizer
03-05-2014, 03:27 PM
Actually mr. metalman I just found the issue. I tried that and blew a hole out the back at around 10psi on sunday night. So I ordered a new reservoir through rockauto and it will be here tomorrow. I might try pressurizing the new reservoir at around 8-7psi. The problem I found was when I took the line off the the nipple on the brake reservoir it the nipple had no hole in it.... So either someone replaced it a long time ago and messed up or audi made it like that for a reason. See attached pictures. I am confused why their is no hole and whether I should put one on the new reservoir or just put fluid in the line and seal it like it was. I connected a line from the nipple to a jug of brake fluid and started sucking it up from the top and this nasty brown fluid came right up. So yeah I found the issue with my bleeding attempts.. sometimes ya know. But on a plus note I made some speaker boxes for tunes.
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s444/MrSnickelsnizer/C360_2014-03-05-17-40-48-370_zpsf696d11f.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/MrSnickelsnizer/media/C360_2014-03-05-17-40-48-370_zpsf696d11f.jpg.html)
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s444/MrSnickelsnizer/C360_2014-03-05-18-05-11-248_zps6fbc74e1.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/MrSnickelsnizer/media/C360_2014-03-05-18-05-11-248_zps6fbc74e1.jpg.html)
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s444/MrSnickelsnizer/C360_2014-03-02-20-30-36-239_zpseec50249.jpg (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/MrSnickelsnizer/media/C360_2014-03-02-20-30-36-239_zpseec50249.jpg.html)

seanf86
03-05-2014, 06:38 PM
that nipple should def have a hole, that is your problem right there, did your ecs kit come with a different rod to swap out with the slave? did you change it if it did?

MrSnickelsnizer
03-05-2014, 06:51 PM
That's what I was thinking...
that nipple should def have a hole, that is your problem right there, did your ecs kit come with a different rod to swap out with the slave? did you change it if it did? And no it didn't come with a different rod even though I feel as if that could be the underlying issue. It feels like the rod that is in there currently is just barely pushing down on the fork enough to get the throw out bearing to barely release the tension on the clutch plate. Could be why it is engaging immediately upon twitching your foot on the clutch pedal and causing it to not fully disengage when clutch is pushed. When I contacted ECS a service rep talked to one of their mechanics and told me there is no need to swap rods, just plug and play.