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B5A4coastie
02-09-2014, 02:28 PM
EDITED 5/19/14: This turned into a solid build, I thought I wouldn't get caught in the pursuit of more power, but I did. In a quick note, you can get about 200whp with 2k from a stock engine and it'll be much more fun to drive, but be prepared to want more (which costs a lot more than 2K).

EDITED Again 4/17/15: Not even a year later and I purchased yet another turbo. I wish I researched more..... I upgraded to a GTX2867R, this WILL be the last one, I promise. Well until next year :P


Hey guys, I have a 99 AEB 1.8 QTM. I bought the car as my daily driver, hind sight says I should have bought a POS, because I spend way too much time looking at parts for a car that was supposed to save me money (MPG wise) in the long run. With that being said I, like almost everyone on here I am looking for a good money:HP ratio.

I first went to NGPracing in Aberdeen, MD to price out an engine build for under 2K that would give me dependable power with every day reliability. They recommended the Carbonio intake, APR TIP, Techtonics TP and exhaust, and the APR Stage 2 Tune. To me that sounded awesome and made sense. More air in, more air out and the management to get it done. Actual price with tax was 2,200.00 plus labor (chip); that was with me installing everything except the APR chip.

I took their information and did some searching on the forums. I was almost convinced immediately that the intake is WAY too overpriced (looking for money:hp ratio remember), and from what I understand the stock intake flows fairly well.

Next I was looking into tunes and while APR has good street credit, I'm leaning toward United Motorsport. Rumor has it, the owner of UM drives a B5A4.

As for the exhaust, I have two needs, it has to be quiet and it needs to flow better. I couldn't find a sound clip from an AEB with the Techtonics/Flowmaster combo they sell now. I did like the tone of the Borlas, but Quiet is key here, for drive ability and for the sleeper aspect. Again with the money:hp ratio for a full exhaust.


So here's what I came up with, with the help from RAI Motorsports in Dundulk, MD. Drop in high flow filter, I chose K&N; test pipe with stock exhaust, I got a good deal from europaparts.com for a 034 TP and the United Motorsport Stage 2 tune, this only requires a plug and tune, rather than APRs soldered chip.

Now with the UM Stage 2 tune, they require the 70mm MAF housing off a MK3 VR6 and 440cc injectors. The housing I scored from a junk yard for $25, but it wont line up with the stock A4 TIP, Evolution Racewerks has a TIP designed to go with a 3" MAF housing for only $150 and is aluminum, not silicone. The tune itself costs $500. As for 440 injectors, it seems the Green Giants are the go to part, looks like about $225 new for a set of four. The TP with the extended bung was $212 and the K&N filter was $46. The TP to a stock exhaust would be a restriction, so I'm looking into a custom down pipe/flex pipe to be made. I'm guessing the custom piping will be $300, parts and labor, I need them to add a bung in the TP for a wide band O2 sensor also.

So far I'm looking at $1450.00.


That extra $500 can go towards the 52mm VEI dual display digital Podi gauges I've been eyeing up. I was thinking an oil pressure/ boost gauge since the Innovate Motorsports 3833 turbo timer that I'm looking at has an A/F setting. I wish I could replace the voltage gauge in the cluster with an oil pressure one. If that was possible I would do a boost/EGT gauge and have all the information I could need.


I would love to deck out the car with suspension and wheels, but as the thread states, I'm on a budget. 5K for the setup I want doesn't look like it's in the cards. Let me know what you guys think. I was going to buy a Vag Com and get HP/TQ readings as I parted the car together, but the $250 could get be closer to want I want sooner. I'm still on the fence and would like to have that intel.

OverSpun
02-11-2014, 12:23 AM
I'm curious after reading your thread- did you forget mentioning a needed turbo upgrade since you've mentioned 440cc injectors unless you are planning on using your stock (k03) turbo? 440cc Injectors are a bit overkill for a stock turbo. I ran 386cc injectors on a Stage GIAC 1+ B6 A4 years back.

Example:

I also have a little B5 A4 project w/ the following engine mods-

FrankenTurbo F21
Bosch 440cc injectors (Green Giants)
Race-Tec FMIC
Forge 007PA
K&N drop in filter (just wrap it in newspaper to suck out the oil)
- I'm using the factory airbox; custom modded for a 3" MAF and it can definitely handle the power.
- 034 breather kit
- Still running the stock exhaust for now.

I'm running GIAC tuning.


I'll give you my thoughts since I think you're spending too much on parts that aren't necessary.

I've had 2 B5 A4s (including my current one) and a B6 A4 and all 3 were heavily modded in their own aspects.

1. You definitely need a Boost/Vac Gauge but I honestly don't think you need an EGT and A/F gauges and also a turbo timer. I have never cared for or needed a boost timer on any turbo car that I've had in the past 10 years including the A4s, a 335i and a Porsche and the boost timers aren't necessary IMHO. You always warm up the car and oppositely... cool down before you shut off the car.

2. VCDS (VAG-COM) is VERY important. I carry it with a 11" netbook for it. BTW, it does NOT give you HP/TQ readings. You need to dyno the car for those. VAG-COM is a scantool such as if you get a MIL.

3. Research a lot more before you start.

B5A4coastie
02-11-2014, 04:27 AM
According to United Motorsports, thats the injector size they recommend with a k03/k04 turbo. I agree that it sounds high and it could be worth a phone call to ensure its needed.

As per the vagcom and hp/tq readings, there is a page on their website explaining how to convert some of your logs to create a hp/tq curve.

The gauges are strictly for knowledge of what my car is doing, and to help diagnose issues, but if I had the vagcom I guess that would show whatever I would need to diagnose any issues.

I'll stick with the turbo timer only because I dont let the car idle when I get home. (I live right off the highway with a 40 minute commute)

Thank you for your opinion, and hope others may chime in as well.

B5A4coastie
02-11-2014, 06:20 AM
The link is on this page http://ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/index.html

OverSpun
02-11-2014, 12:55 PM
According to United Motorsports, thats the injector size they recommend with a k03/k04 turbo. I agree that it sounds high and it could be worth a phone call to ensure its needed.

As per the vagcom and hp/tq readings, there is a page on their website explaining how to convert some of your logs to create a hp/tq curve.

The gauges are strictly for knowledge of what my car is doing, and to help diagnose issues, but if I had the vagcom I guess that would show whatever I would need to diagnose any issues.

I'll stick with the turbo timer only because I dont let the car idle when I get home. (I live right off the highway with a 40 minute commute)

Thank you for your opinion, and hope others may chime in as well.

Yea, you may as well give them a call but I haven't ever heard of them or someone running 440cc injectors on a k03.

May as well look into this- http://giacusa.com/products/software/display_submodel.php?chassis=A4_%AE&submodel=A4_%AE_(_B5_1997_-_2001_)&make=Audi_%AE&model=A4_/_S4_/_RS4_%AE

Anyway- you don't have to let the car idle when you get home unless you drive WOT until you park. It's your prerogative how many gauges and such that you'd like to buy but it may contradict your budget. What exactly is your budget w/ $5k? Including the car itself and all the mods?

B5A4coastie
02-11-2014, 06:48 PM
What exactly is your budget w/ $5k? Including the car itself and all the mods?

I just want a fun to step on throttle (engine work) for under 2K. I could care less about 1/4 mile times, and you can't build a time attack car with my bank account, something fun to drive and looks/sounds stock.

Also thanks for the link, I've heard of Giac, just never searched for them.

OverSpun
02-11-2014, 08:19 PM
I just want a fun to step on throttle (engine work) for under 2K. I could care less about 1/4 mile times, and you can't build a time attack car with my bank account, something fun to drive and looks/sounds stock.

Also thanks for the link, I've heard of Giac, just never searched for them.

I highly suggest that you look for used performance parts (depending if they are good parts and their shape) and you will save a LOT money with your budget. You can start low on very useful mods that's aren't very expensive.

One option could be-

What does your mileage look like on the car and is it up to date on service, especially the timing belt job (if you don't know... have it done, ASAP). You may have a lot work before you should start modding the car and sometimes you can upgrade some worn out parts during it. I had to replace a LOT worn out parts on my car since I've only had it for 6 months. I had to replace every check valve under the hood (5 in my case), Jet suction pump, PCV / Breather kit from 034 (since the car had sludge issues before I bought it) and a lot more but I can't recall at the moment.

- Start off with a Boost/Vac Gauge since it will help you a lot while you mod the car so you'll learn the car while it's 100% stock before mods. It was the first mod that I did on my avant since I needed to diagnose a number of issues with the car. I'll show you which gauge that I bought- (http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3715&sid=67). It has red LED light and it perfectly matches the factory red lighting. I made my own gauge pod for the center vent and that should tell you enough and it's a lot cheaper than other options. You can get vacuum line and a T-tap at pep boys or any auto store to install any boost gauge pretty inexpensively.


1. GIAC flash (AWE Tuning is in PA which isn't exactly down the street from you but it's just a suggestion)
+/- K04 pricing has been slowly raising in the past years but I haven't looked recently but I decided on the Frankenturbo since it makes more power and they are in the same price range. (Of course, you may be very happy with a GIAC flash on your stock k03 and it's a day and night difference). To mention this- GIAC hasn't soldered chips in many years since I personally had one ~14 years back but they have been flashing VIA OBDII for years. GIAC's Headquarters are local and I've been there a number of times. I've used GIAC on all my last cars.

2. The K&N drop in filter is cheap enough and it'll help.

3. You can run your stock diverter valve with a flash but the diaphragm will eventually tear and it would sound like a dying duck. Anyway- The cheap upgrade is buying a 710N diverter valve (From the TT225) and they are more durable than your stock diverter valve. My stock diverter blew the first week after I flashed the car. I have been upgrading the DV at the same time with flashes since then.

4. The factory side mounted intercooler isn't very efficient on a completely stock A4; especially on hot days. I personally find FMICs more helpful with a lower IAT than exhausts in this order and exhausts obviously also help. Since you mentioned some concerns with having an exhaust that is too loud... Perhaps you should consider the FMIC before the exhaust. However, I wouldn't recommend a test pipe with full exhaust and it could drone. The test pipe won't pass emissions (depending on your state's emission laws). I had a borla/AWE cat-back exhaust system on my first A4 ~10 years back and it didn't drone and it sounded good and I kept with my factory cat (mainly since I was under warranty).

5. Speaking of suspension... You should consider a rear sway bar and you'll definitely be able to tell the difference. I had a Neuspeed 19" bar on my first A4 and theyre adjustable and I eventually bought coilovers.

6. Look at the classifieds and craigslist for used wheels and that will be inexpensive.

B5A4coastie
02-12-2014, 07:53 AM
Thanks OverSpun, that's a lot of solid information.

OverSpun
02-12-2014, 06:30 PM
Thanks OverSpun, that's a lot of solid information.

No problem!

Honestly, depending on the mileage if your timing belt was replaced recently because it can snap and motor damage won't help while you mod the car. My car's timing belt snapped on the previous owner and he never had it done and he spent ~2-3k. If you bought the car without any service records and I would have the timing belt done anyway to be safe.

B5A4coastie
02-13-2014, 07:20 AM
I bought it at 82K, I did the timing belt, water pump, thermostat and associated belts and tensoner. Next big maintenance on my list is new fuilds threw out. The odometer is sitting at 92500 now.

OverSpun
02-13-2014, 03:16 PM
I bought it at 82K, I did the timing belt, water pump, thermostat and associated belts and tensoner. Next big maintenance on my list is new fuilds threw out. The odometer is sitting at 92500 now.

Good! My A4's t-belt snapped @ 83k on the previous owner. Audi recommends having the t-belt replaced every 40k after they were sued since they recommended it @ 100k [rolleyes], I think. You're good @ 92k. Definitely check all your check valves and all that under the hood since I had a lot dried out / cracked parts and I replaced them. I'm @ 86k and I bought the car w/ 85k. I just don't drive it very often.

B5A4coastie
02-13-2014, 05:31 PM
← Drives 80 miles a day

B5A4coastie
02-21-2014, 09:04 PM
Ordered my tune and injectors today. My K04-15 is in route from another member.... This guy is getting excited about getting the build together. I also received my oil pressure and boost gauge w/pod mount from Podi.

B5A4coastie
02-22-2014, 06:20 PM
Well I installed the boost gauge today... With the engine at idle I sit at -20 and at WOT I can only get to 5 psi. From what I have read, this is a common thing when the car is in "limp mode", I guess I can't put off buying a vagcom much longer.

Well I did some thinking and I'm in doubt about the "limp mode", the car pulls just fine. So I just switched the line I was using for my boost reading. I used the FPR line at first because it looked cleaner, but now I have it on the line to the recirculation valve(dv). At idle the gauge reads -14, but WOT is only 5 still.

Seerlah
02-25-2014, 03:46 AM
WG or recirculation valve?

B5A4coastie
02-25-2014, 10:23 AM
Recirculation valve, my bad, I edited the post for future reference.

B5A4coastie
02-25-2014, 05:29 PM
On a good note, my tuned ecu and injectors were waiting for me after work!

B5A4coastie
02-28-2014, 01:26 PM
My K04-15 arrived today, just waiting on some gaskets then everything will get installed most likely next weekend.

B5A4coastie
03-01-2014, 05:45 PM
Wow these cars eat money, ok well it's more like I really enjoy driving this car. I just ordered all new fluids and magnetic drain/fill plugs for the differentials and transmission, new fuel filter, SS brake lines and a R1 dv from ECS. Also I purchased the Apikol snub mount, Stern engine mounts and Ross-techs vagcom all in preparation for my 100k service and turbo/tune swap.

B5A4coastie
03-03-2014, 11:22 AM
I got good and bad news this morning. I haven't heard from Evolution Racewerks about shipping my order, so i gave them a call, parts are just now coming in, but I ordered the black anodized finish so that still needs to be applied, but should ship out by Wednesday. I wasn't paying close attention to my huge order request from ECS and the shipment date was set for March 10th, all because a magnetic drain valve for my trans; a quick email to Jason straightened that out and I'll be able to get some maintenance done before the TIP gets here. With all this time waiting on parts, I was thinking I should order a new Clutch and mounts, that was I could pull everything apart once. I'm leaning on FX300 and street density mounts (DD).

B5A4coastie
03-06-2014, 07:08 PM
Today was like Christmas I had 4 packages waiting for me after work. I'll upload pictures this weekend, but I got a ton of parts in. Also finished my ordering frenzy tonight, the last few items were a ECS RSA4 stage two clutch kit, Treadstones TR18T intercooler/piping and H&R front/rear sway bar kit. I purged a ton of money from my bank account, but my build will be "finished".

B5A4coastie
03-07-2014, 03:27 PM
As promised, some pictures. More to follow as more parts show up/get installed.

PARTS!!!!
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140306_163017.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140306_163017.jpg.html)

K04-15, tiny lil guy.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140304_211834.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140304_211834.jpg.html)

United Motorsports stage 3 tuned ecu and Siemens 630cc injectors
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140225_184215.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140225_184215.jpg.html)

Out with the old, in with the new, APR R1 DV
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140306_191431.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140306_191431.jpg.html)

LED plate lights
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140306_180312.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140306_180312.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140306_180711.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140306_180711.jpg.html)

Welcome to a state of solidness
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140307_164030.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140307_164030.jpg.html)

Seerlah
03-07-2014, 04:01 PM
630cc for a k04? That's a lot of injector.

B5A4coastie
03-07-2014, 04:23 PM
Agreed, just rolling with the tuners recommendations.

B5A4coastie
03-08-2014, 12:27 PM
Changed the transmission and differentials fluids today, the rear fill and drain plug were hard as hell to get out, but the front were a lot easier. I replaced the fill and drain plugs with ECS's magnetic fill/drain plugs.

Rear Diff
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140308_100031.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140308_100031.jpg.html)

Real pain in the ass to fill. Rear took just under 2 liters of oil.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140308_100104.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140308_100104.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140308_101608.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140308_101608.jpg.html)

On to the front. The "center" differential and manual transmission share oil and took 3 liters of oil.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140308_103055.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140308_103055.jpg.html)

The drain plug was a 12 point anti-tamper plug, but my vise grips took care of it.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140308_105202.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140308_105202.jpg.html)

The front was easier to fill, I just rolled the liter of oil on top of the axle and let it eat.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140308_110514.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140308_110514.jpg.html)

End product.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140308_115205.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140308_115205.jpg.html)

BaseDrifter
03-08-2014, 12:39 PM
Good job. A couple tips to make filling the fluids easier. For $3 you can buy a screw top pump that will allow you to pump fluid into the rear diff. For the tranny, I use a 4' piece of plastic tubing to fill it by gravity from the side of the car.

B5A4coastie
03-09-2014, 06:16 PM
For $3 you can buy a screw top pump that will allow you to pump fluid into the rear diff. For the tranny, I use a 4' piece of plastic tubing to fill it by gravity from the side of the car.

Thanks bud, that's good intel.

B5A4coastie
03-09-2014, 06:33 PM
I tried to tackle the fuel filter change, even after reading a bunch of horror stories from other threads. Well my story is the same as the others. It only took 20 minutes to get the old filter out, and slap a new one on, but there were only three crush washers on the original filter.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140309_134345.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140309_134345.jpg.html)

I found a copper washer that didn't quite fit, so I tried to manufacturer my own.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140309_153005.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140309_153005.jpg.html)

No dice though, I was able to blow through the filter still, so i just slapped it back in. I'll get some washers from a dealership and try it again later.

B5A4coastie
03-10-2014, 06:15 PM
Well I was full of pep after work, made it to the dealer and picked up a new set of washers; only a little over a dollar per washer, not bad. I get home and don't even unpack the car, up on jacks it goes. I pull the tank down and start to loosen the fuel supply line, my wrench slips and scrapes the rubber back on the line (insert profanities here).
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140310_173257.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140310_173257.jpg.html)

Luckily Advanced auto parts had a fuel line repair kit for 16 bucks. I just redid the last 16" of fuel line and slapped it up, no more leaks!

Well Seafoam was on sale so I picked up a pint of that and ran it through my intake manifold, took her out for a spin and all is well, except for a CEL. It's was a misfire on the #1 cylinder. I choked it once while Seafoaming, so I got the Vagcom and cleared the code. Afterword I was playing around and checked my readiness status, this is what I found.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140310_201824.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140310_201824.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140310_202215.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140310_202215.jpg.html)

Both O2 sensors show voltage but the B1S1 goes back and forth from Lean to Rich, it never steadies. Any ideas with what's going on? This is only the second time I've used the Vagcom, but it doesn't seem right to me.

SN95Audi87
03-11-2014, 07:32 AM
Neat thread.

MetalMan
03-11-2014, 07:57 AM
Well Seafoam was on sale so I picked up a pint of that and ran it through my intake manifold, took her out for a spin and all is well, except for a CEL. It's was a misfire on the #1 cylinder. I choked it once while Seafoaming, so I got the Vagcom and cleared the code.

Totally normal to get misfires running Seafoam through, even if you don't choke out the engine. I'm surprised it only happened on one cylinder!


Afterword I was playing around and checked my readiness status, this is what I found.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140310_201824.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140310_201824.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140310_202215.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140310_202215.jpg.html)

Both O2 sensors show voltage but the B1S1 goes back and forth from Lean to Rich, it never steadies. Any ideas with what's going on? This is only the second time I've used the Vagcom, but it doesn't seem right to me.

Couple things here... Readiness can take a few running cycles or up to 50 miles to set for some of the parameters. I wouldn't worry about it until 3 cold start cycles and/or 50 miles have gone by.

On an AEB there is a narrowband primary oxygen sensor. These are very sensitive to stoichiometric air/fuel ratio. NB sensors can only measure something iin the range of about 14.1-15.0 A/F ratios. Your ECU will purposely cause the A/F ratio to go up-and-down and switch between rich and lean. This switch should happen once every 2-4 seconds or so at idle. Basically the ECU does this so it can make sure it's running in the stoichiometric range.


630cc for a k04? That's a lot of injector.

Actually... the United Motorsport Stage 3 630cc tune is even said to work with a K03. Jeff Atwood (guy who runs UM) runs the 630cc AEB tune on his stock-engine B5 from what I understand. Nothing wrong with having nearly twice the fuel-flow capacity as stock :) The tune runs very nicely and there's obviously upgrade potential (up to an Elim-ish).

Ducktool
03-11-2014, 08:51 AM
Props on taking care of all the maintenance on the car. It's easy to over-look when you start modding. Looking forward to the budget build!

Sent from my HTC6500LVW

Tanzimur
03-11-2014, 10:31 AM
Nice DD build i wish i would have made a thread like this when i went through the madness lol as for the 440cc or 386cc injectors i would have to get my current stage 1 tweaked for those, i couldn't just install em and hope for best could I?

B5A4coastie
03-11-2014, 04:38 PM
Your ECU will purposely cause the A/F ratio to go up-and-down and switch between rich and lean. This switch should happen once every 2-4 seconds or so at idle.
Nailed it MetalMan, that's exactly what it was doing, good to hear that's normal.



Actually... the United Motorsport Stage 3 630cc tune is even said to work with a K03. Jeff Atwood (guy who runs UM) runs the 630cc AEB tune on his stock-engine B5 from what I understand. Nothing wrong with having nearly twice the fuel-flow capacity as stock :) The tune runs very nicely and there's obviously upgrade potential (up to an Elim-ish).
That's the intel I got from Jeff as well, I can't wait until I get it all installed! As of now I didn't want anything too crazy and I know for sure I didn't want to have to take the block apart for this build, but with the option to go bigger in the future is a huge plus.


Ducktool, SN95Audi87, and Tanzimur: Thank you for the props, I'm glad others enjoy my story. I took the advice from a lot of people on here and knocked out the maintenance first. I'm an engineer by trade so I know how important it is to follow maintenance schedules.

B5A4coastie
03-11-2014, 04:44 PM
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140311_190806.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140311_190806.jpg.html)
Well I finally got my test pipe and turbo inlet pipe from Evolution Racewerks, the parts look solid and the directions and installation kits are very detailed. Only one small problem, I asked for a 3"MAF TIP, but I received a 2.75 coupler. My guess is it's just a step down silicone coupler, hopefully they can sent it fast, I'd like to put this all together this weekend. ER is very hard to get a hold of though, I'm not sure if I'm the only one having that problem, but I can never get anyone to pick up the phone, I always have to leave a message.

Ducktool
03-11-2014, 04:49 PM
Gotta love getting parts! Hope you get that 3" maf tip fast too. What's next on the list after all this is put on?

Sent from my HTC6500LVW

B5A4coastie
03-11-2014, 06:09 PM
Just waiting on my clutch to pull the engine out and swap everything, mounts, oil flush, ect.... ln that order is also more brake fluid, so I will put in my stainless steel lines and flush the brake system. That should do it, like I said I was hoping to get it for this weekend, otherwise it'll have to wait for a week or so as I'll be out of town.

Ducktool
03-11-2014, 06:13 PM
Nice can't wait to see it all come together.

And waiting to put all new parts on a car is the worst

Sent from my HTC6500LVW

B5A4coastie
03-11-2014, 06:39 PM
Yeah tell me about it. Oh and I forgot about my FMIC, still waiting on that too.

Tanzimur
03-11-2014, 07:00 PM
So i have a stage 1 ecu tune 18 psi cone filter test pipe 2.5in exhaust all the way back and such if i swap in 380cc injectors or the green tops would i need a re-tune? im thinking yes but just wnna make sure

B5A4coastie
03-12-2014, 02:07 AM
The best person to answer that is whoever tuned your ecu. They design the tune with a certain injector in mind.

B5A4coastie
03-16-2014, 09:32 AM
Oh boy, what a weekend, here's the skinny on my build so far.

For those of you who saw my post looking for a TIP coupler; ER finally answered my email and priority shipped the correct coupler, it may or may not arrive tomorrow, depending on this storm.

Friday, I pulled the engine out and to the side(didn't remove the rear harness or coils) in about 5 hours. Not too bad for first time/solo. Saturday I cleaned the engine and engine bay, looks snazzy, yep I said snazzy. Also couldn't get the turbo off the manifold so I had to pull the exhaust manifold off as well, lame now I need a gasket that I didn't plan for, but to make matters worse I broke a stud off in the block. Not too big of a deal, I have easy outs. Well scratch that, I have a broken easy out in a broken exhaust stud. My plan for that is to take a dremel and try to grind away the easy out.

My catalytic converter bolts have super human strength, so I need to pull the whole exhaust so I can cut them off, I wish I figured that out instead of wasting 1.5 hours on hoping to break them free.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140315_153140.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140315_153140.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140316_143110.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140316_143110.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140316_161210-1.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140316_161210-1.jpg.html)

I only broke one PCV T under the intake manifold while taking the engine out, I'm ok with one 14 year old plastic fitting snapping.

After installing my ER TIP, the PCV check valve doesn't line up with the hard pipe that rolls to the intake side; 034 silicone kit ordered.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140315_211755.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140315_211755.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140315_233533.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140315_233533.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140315_233543.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140315_233543.jpg.html)

Oh did I mention I pulled the motor without having power steering fluid handy, and of course auto parts stores don't carry mineral based PS fluid. So manifold gasket, exhaust stud and PS fluid are coming from ECS.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140315_182138.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140315_182138.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140315_212930.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140315_212930.jpg.html)

I'm going out of town next weekend, so it looks like she's going to sit for a while. I'm hoping to pull the exhaust off, install the test pipe and clutch/fly wheel today, and worry about the manifold at a later date.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140316_170552.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140316_170552.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140316_174647.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140316_174647.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140316_182800.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140316_182800.jpg.html)

MetalMan
03-17-2014, 08:06 AM
For the PRV (pancake) valve not fitting to the hard line, is it possible this is due to how close you have the ER TIP to vertical? As-is it looks like the stock airbox wouldn't mate up to the TIP.

B5A4coastie
03-18-2014, 02:06 AM
I was thinking this too Metalman, but that line is mounted to the head, so I positioned the valve/tip to it. I'll have a better idea once I bolt the engine back in again.

B5A4coastie
03-18-2014, 05:00 PM
I got that MO*&^RF#@%ER out yesterday.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140317_174354.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140317_174354.jpg.html)

Thanks to this guy. It took about an hour of grinding, but it ate away at the easy outs harden steal like a champ. $10 at Home Depot.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140317_173020.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140317_173020.jpg.html)

I noticed this oil build up on my valves, is that normal for a 100K engine? I haven't pulled my oil pan, but it looks like sludge to me. Failing valve seats? I have only had it for the last 14k miles, but I run Amsoil and the large filters.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140317_174936.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140317_174936.jpg.html)

Don't mind the white valves, I seafoamed the engine less than 150 miles before taking the engine out.

As for the mating of the transmission and engine, I took a break today and will continue tomorrow. I should get the exhaust manifold and stud tomorrow, then I will try rotating the crank to get the splines to line up.

Believer
03-19-2014, 06:56 AM
The oil on the valves would lead me to think valve seals, not seats.

catbed
03-19-2014, 07:24 AM
So i have a stage 1 ecu tune 18 psi cone filter test pipe 2.5in exhaust all the way back and such if i swap in 380cc injectors or the green tops would i need a re-tune? im thinking yes but just wnna make sure

If you change injectors, you need to change the tune. Almost every hardware mod should have an appropriate change in software.

B5A4coastie
03-19-2014, 08:04 PM
The oil on the valves would lead me to think valve seals, not seats.
Yep, good call, that's what I meant. Seats are the back side of the valve to the head.....

On another note, I finally got the engine and transmission mated. I got them to a half inch apart and had to clamp them together with the transmission bolts. I was afraid of doing that earlier, but my give-a-damn was busted. I just went slow and turned the crank bolt slowly every few minutes to make sure I had the spines lined up. Now it sits on hold until I get back from Cali. I hope I remember how everything connected together on Tuesday.

B5A4coastie
03-26-2014, 06:36 PM
Well I finally got it together at zero dark thirty last night. It started on the second crank... An awesome feeling! The one problem I had was getting the hood to latch, turns out I just installed the catch/release too low. Another was I lost the clip to the coolant sensor that sits on the engine, that blew off today, luckily I was only 2 minutes from home.

Side by side of the factory and 034 breather kit, well worth the money, great quality, good look and ease of maneuvering.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140325_175544.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140325_175544.jpg.html)

I have a kink in the turbo outlet pipe (to the intercooler), but once I install my front mount it'll be resolved.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140325_193519.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140325_193519.jpg.html)

Holly tight fit Batman. I think there's trimming needed for the ER TIP, this is ridiculous.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140325_221946.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140325_221946.jpg.html)

The FMIC was going to be my weekend project, but I don't have a support bracket for it.... Hindsight = 20/20.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140326_192835.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140326_192835.jpg.html)

Other than the small hiccups, I am pleased with the build so far. I'm cruising around at half throttle for the most part until I get some miles on the turbo/clutch, so it's hard to judge power, but I know it's a large improvement. Half throttle seems quicker than WOT prior to the build. The motor mounts add a bunch of vibrations in the cabin though. I'm wishing I went with the RS4 mounts instead and the test pipe it louder than I thought... I wanted to keep the car quiet and comfortable, but those two items are not helping. I read somewhere that a testpipe will add an exhaust smell into the cabin, well I'm glad to announce that is not the case here. The Snub mount is amazing, there is no rocking of the transmission when rolling off the throttle now. The RA4 cutch kit from ECS is money! It's a lot shorter of an engagement/disengagement throw, and with the lightened flywheel there's very little hesitation off the line.

Just a recap, my to do list is:

Install stainless steel brake lines and flush brake system
Clean and paint calipers and rotor drum black
Install FMIC
Dyno numbers / quarter mile time
Audi meet?

B5A4coastie
03-28-2014, 03:10 PM
I have about 350 miles clocked on the turbo and clutch so I decided to step on it a bit today. It felt like the engine was tripping over its on feet, I got a CEL for multiple misfires on cylinder #2, so I got some new plugs. The old plugs were Bosch Super Plus with who knows how many miles on them. The new guys are Bosch Platinums.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140328_163526.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140328_163526.jpg.html)

I also found a little oil on top of the plugs. Leaking valve cover gasket I guess, but there wasn't much.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140328_163620.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140328_163620.jpg.html)

Well those new plugs smoothed the car out. I have a solid 16psi peak, but the UM website says 20-22psi, maybe that's with a GT28.

Avant Nate
03-28-2014, 04:59 PM
I really want to know what your AFR's are at WOT with that 630cc tune. Seems crazy to me. Time for the FSI coil mod.

B5A4coastie
03-28-2014, 05:25 PM
Yeah, so does Jeffery Atwood and myself included. It's supposed to rain like crazy tomorrow, but I will try to complete my wideband install this weekend if there's a break in the weather. FWIW, I don't think my car smells rich, but I'm not behind it either. I'm not ready to sink more money into the car just yet. This build broke out of the "budget" stage.

B5A4coastie
03-30-2014, 03:06 PM
Ok finally got my AFR meter running. I have 14.6-15.0 at idle, not too bad. WOT is peaks at 10.7 then tampers to 11.3.

B5A4coastie
03-31-2014, 05:25 PM
Some pictures of my oil pressure sender install.

Dummy pressure switch.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140330_092056.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140330_092056.jpg.html)

First adapter, http://www.42draftdesigns.com/M10x1-Male--18-NPT-Female-Adaptor_p_57.html.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140330_092425.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140330_092425.jpg.html)

Second adapter,http://www.42draftdesigns.com/VDO-M10x1-Male-T-Adaptor_p_94.html, close fit.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140330_093610.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140330_093610.jpg.html)

Add the dummy switch again.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140330_095019.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140330_095019.jpg.html)

Finished product.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140330_095604.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140330_095604.jpg.html)

Tanzimur
03-31-2014, 08:27 PM
how much was that sending unit? and where did u get it??

B5A4coastie
04-01-2014, 02:13 AM
That sending unit is from VEI. It came with my Podi.ca gauge, $109 for the dual digital gauge and $69 for the sending unit. It's a 0-100 PSI unit.

B5A4coastie
04-06-2014, 06:22 PM
I installed the FMIC this weekend. To say it was a pain in the ass is a complete understatement. I didn't take any pictures and I killed my dremel. So if you plan to install a FMIC have something heftier than a dremel and a harbor freight sawzaw, buy more pipe than you think you'll need, ensure you have plenty of clamps (I was 3 shy) and prepare for a long weekend!

I also installed my AFPR and gauge, thank you MetalMan, I can finally dial down my richness at WOT; Also a quick shout out to Seerlah for doing the leg work for the TR18T.

On another note, I noticed I have almost 2500 views, but I'm mostly talking to myself. I don't know wither to take that as I'm spot of with what I'm doing, thus no need to call me out on anything, or what.

pbcrazy
04-06-2014, 07:00 PM
Let me know what you end up setting your afpr to, that will be my next move.

MetalMan
04-06-2014, 08:35 PM
I installed the FMIC this weekend. To say it was a pain in the ass is a complete understatement. I didn't take any pictures and I killed my dremel. So if you plan to install a FMIC have something heftier than a dremel and a harbor freight sawzaw, buy more pipe than you think you'll need, ensure you have plenty of clamps (I was 3 shy) and prepare for a long weekend!

I'm only running the CX Racing FMIC kit which has a smaller IC, but it's still a total pain. Can't even imagine what you went through (I still had to cut the rebar a bit though). I bought the Harbor Freight cutoff tool which helped immensely with cutting rebar. It cost $40-ish and has ~3" diameter cutoff wheels. A 20-pack of replacement cutting discs for this costs about the same as a 5-pack of the tiny Dremel reinforced cutoff wheels!


I also installed my AFPR and gauge, thank you MetalMan, I can finally dial down my richness at WOT

Glad it worked out for both of us :)

B5A4coastie
04-07-2014, 03:11 PM
I forgot to add that I trimmed the TIP about a half of an inch and it has a little more room, but the PCV check valve off of it is still smashed up against the intake tube.

I couldn't get my AFPR to cut the richness at WOT as much as I want to without leaning my idle/low rpm, I'll still be playing with it here and there, but I purchased IE's MBC to try and dump a little more air into the mix. Holy S$^t this thing is huge!, I was thinking about the third of this guy, where the hell am I going to put this?
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140407_172721.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140407_172721.jpg.html)

MetalMan
04-08-2014, 07:16 AM
I couldn't get my AFPR to cut the richness at WOT as much as I want to without leaning my idle/low rpm, I'll still be playing with it here and there,

Idle/closed loop operation uses the primary O2 sensor to keep fuel in check. Basically any time you're in boost the ECU is in open loop and it only uses the MAF to control AFR (using pre-set tables). So you should be okay to tune the AFPR for WOT/boost operation, and the idle/closed loop operation will figure it out.
Also did you clear codes to reset fuel trims after setting the AFPR?

B5A4coastie
04-08-2014, 07:49 AM
Thank you for clearing that up. After I adjusted the AFPR I tool the car for a lap around the block, and shut it down for the night. The next morning I started the car and it barely idled at 800 rpm. I take it that's why I need to reset the fuel trims?

MetalMan
04-08-2014, 07:59 AM
Yeah the car needs some miles to adapt to changes in fuel pressure, especially without resetting fuel trims. Resetting fuel trims will simply help to speed up that process.

B5A4coastie
04-11-2014, 06:44 PM
Alright, so after tweaking the AFPR daily I decided that 2.5 bar was best (butt dyno style), mainly by judging the hesitation at WOT. I am sitting around 12.3-13 A/F ratio at WOT, that's a drastic improvement in itself. Finally I installed my MBC and BAM!, power hoe. I'm still sitting at about 16-18 PSI at WOT but it appears to get there almost 800 RPMs sooner.

I also ordered a new exhaust manifold from CTS; I've been running the stock one and feel like I can justify the $275 expense. Once I get that on, I'll get a lava turbo and manifold blanket and an engine/intake separating heat shield. Then dare I say the laughable phrase? I'll be finished with engine mods.....

Jerstillman
04-11-2014, 06:50 PM
Sureeeee...... then it will be well I could totally justify a gtrs. Oh maybe bigger injectors. Oh hey I broke the tranny 01e swap. And on

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

B5A4coastie
04-12-2014, 05:30 AM
Sureeeee...... then it will be well I could totally justify a gtrs. Oh maybe bigger injectors. Oh hey I broke the tranny 01e swap. And on

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[up] Just wishful thinking. I need to save for suspension upgrades.

B5A4coastie
04-20-2014, 03:54 PM
OK so I installed CTS's Kinetic 1.8T Turbo Manifold. What a pain in the ass that was. First I snapped the heads off the turbo-manifold bolts, my fault for not using anti-seize, so that took me a day of drilling and tapping. In order to drill them out I had to disconnet the TP, and since I didn't plan that I now have an exhaust leak.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140419_160859.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140419_160859.jpg.html)

Finally comes time to install the new manifold and I find you have to use a certain order to tighten it down with. The two nuts that are on the back side of the turbo need to be walked on as you push the manifold back, otherwise they wedge themselves to the manifold, very tight clearances.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140419_160747.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140419_160747.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140419_160800.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140419_160800.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140419_160818.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140419_160818.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140419_160833.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140419_160833.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140419_160837.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140419_160837.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140420_184628.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140420_184628.jpg.html)

Now the turbo whistles a lot louder than before. The only downside is I'm only seeing 11 PSI in boost, I haven't done a leak test yet. I'm guessing it's on the intercooler piping, surely the new manifold wouldn't change the pressure output of a turbo, even with a leaky exhaust gasket right?

Also I just noticed the exhaust ports look smaller on the new manifold. I should have gotten the I.D.s of everything.

B5A4coastie
05-05-2014, 05:57 PM
Well this has been a busy few weeks. That turbo whistle turned into dentist drilling and I was quick to judge the company who rebuilt the turbo. According to RAI, BW doesn't endorse rebuilding, just a CHRA change out. After thinking about it, maybe a couple of metal shavings fell inside the turbo after I drilled out those bolts during the manifold swap, or maybe not getting a new oil supply line done me in. It was an expensive lesson, but I will never (1) buy a used turbo again, and (2) I will always change the turbo supply line with a new turbo.

Sooooo..... I have to get another turbo..... GT2871R Eliminator here I come[evilsmile]. I was eyeing the eliminators up while initially planning my build but jumped on the K04 when I saw it for sale.

I have been working on the car what seems like every weekend and I'm tired of it. I bit the bullet and decided to get RAI to drop in SCAT rods and Super Tech valve train. Now I'll have a solid platform for hopefully ~300awhp.[drive]

ray4624
05-05-2014, 06:27 PM
Valves and rods...go for 400 at least


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

B5A4coastie
05-05-2014, 06:54 PM
I'll let the burn of getting engine work done cool before going big turbo. I went from a budget build where I was shooting for 200awhp with spending only 2k to all out where I dont want to total my costs.

B5A4coastie
05-15-2014, 07:12 PM
Just a small upgrade... K04 next to GT2871R
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140515_175406.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140515_175406.jpg.html)

B5A4coastie
05-19-2014, 02:47 PM
Aw boy... So I have a bit of sludge in my head.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140519_143054.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140519_143054.jpg.html)

Also the guides have excessive play on 50% of the intake and exhaust valves. Just to add more of a pain, there's a ton of oil in my intake manifold, but not in the throttle body. I have to guess it's the emission system causing my oil issue.


On a slightly better note, I still have cross hatching in my block.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140519_142354.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140519_142354.jpg.html)

Jerstillman
05-19-2014, 07:24 PM
So you were burning oil?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

B5A4coastie
05-19-2014, 07:32 PM
Not really, I think this is the first time the head has been off. I never had any oil consumption or blue smoke, I believe it just accumulated over the years.

Jerstillman
05-19-2014, 07:36 PM
Yeah the pcv system on these AEBs are pretty aggressive. Sucking lots of vapor out of crankcase abd sometimes oil. And then pumping it back into the intake.
Hence why a lot of guys run a catch can. But the software is designed to see these Hydrocarbon fumes so when deleting a lot of the time it will set a lean code.

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B5A4coastie
05-20-2014, 01:38 PM
Interesting, I'll keep that in mind. So you still get the code even with the catch can?

Jerstillman
05-20-2014, 03:17 PM
Yes but it can all be tuned out

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B5A4coastie
06-02-2014, 05:20 PM
Even more sludge... I'll get a new oil pump just in case.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/20140602_151609.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/20140602_151609.jpg.html)

Jerstillman
06-02-2014, 05:52 PM
What does the bottom of the pan look like?

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B5A4coastie
06-03-2014, 06:27 AM
Same blackened/dark brown color.

B5A4coastie
06-10-2014, 04:18 PM
I can't believe this is the same head.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140609_153226.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140609_153226.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140609_153259.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140609_153259.jpg.html)

Finally getting put back together!
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20140610_152943.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140610_152943.jpg.html)

Jerstillman
06-10-2014, 04:49 PM
Did you send the head out to a machine shop?

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TheWaterboy
06-10-2014, 06:08 PM
I feel like we are one in the same. K04 DD builds, http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/11/mezenu6y.jpg

Similar pics as well lol http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/11/ema4y3yh.jpg

I'm stg5 C2 on 550cc injectors,
ER TIP http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/11/3egujyta.jpg

this bullshit http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/11/y5eheqy7.jpg

Solid mounts cuz... http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/11/dy8uta8e.jpg

I'd highly recommend the FSI conversion as well.

Keep up the good work man!

B5A4coastie
06-10-2014, 06:33 PM
Did you send the head out to a machine shop?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Yes to JB here in Maryland, outstanding work, money well spent.

Jerstillman
06-10-2014, 06:34 PM
What did it cost? What did you have done?

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B5A4coastie
06-10-2014, 06:36 PM
Waterboy, its a small world. I hope the K04 works for you, mine was fun until I over sped it. I do have the FSI kit awaiting install once I get the car running again.

B5A4coastie
06-19-2014, 11:42 AM
The car is finally driving again! I'm staying out of boost for the first 500 miles and varying the load the entire time... It's amazing how strong the engine is now that everything is fresh.

Jerstillman
06-19-2014, 12:02 PM
Nice man. Congrats

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B5A4coastie
06-26-2014, 03:12 PM
I finally got past the 500 mile break in. I took off from a light today and had boost spikes with my MBC in parallel with the N75. I would hit 22psi (MBC limited) and it would drop to 15psi, build back to 22psi, then drop again, etc. WTF is my MBC broken? I didn't have this issue when I used it with my K04.

ray4624
06-26-2014, 03:34 PM
Compressor surge? You running a bleeder valve or ball and spring type mbc?


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B5A4coastie
06-26-2014, 07:44 PM
I believe ball and spring. It's from integrated engineering.

TheWaterboy
06-26-2014, 07:54 PM
IE is ball and spring.

B5A4coastie
12-09-2014, 12:52 PM
Wow, long time, no update. It turned out that the tolerances weren't right with the MBC I had. IE reworked it and sent it back and has worked like a champ since. I also pulled off my old power steering cooler since it was leaking like crazy and installed 034s cooler above my FMIC.


I have my Birthday and Christmas coming up, so I purchased a CXRacing exhaust and have plans for a Vibrant ultra quiet resonator to be welded on it. Plus a new test pipe from RAI, since my current one tapers to 2.5".

Anyone want a used TP with 3 bungs, 3" in from turbo to tapering to 2.5" out to the catback?

My soon to be 3" turbo back:
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20141206_110917.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141206_110917.jpg.html)

B5A4coastie
12-13-2014, 09:33 AM
Exhaust update. LOUD! Crazy loud, like why the hell did I do this to my car loud!

The Vibrant resonator that I bought doesn't fit in the tunnel. I wanted to keep the resonator that came with the kit and add a second one, but that doesn't seem to be an option. I still have to measure around and see if I can use the Vibrant in place of the existing resonator, or if I need to purchase a smaller one all together.

What's even worse than the noise is how the bolt holes on the downpipe didn't line up with the test pipe. By that I mean, when the bolts were tightened all the way, there was still a small gap between the TP and DP. So I had to get the ends cut off and weld on a V" band just to seal that gap.

I should have went with a full custom job, it would have fit better and could have been a lot quieter.

The resonator is the lowest part of the car now, I don't have a comparative photo for this.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20141213_122650.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141213_122650.jpg.html)

Side view from drivers front wheel.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20141213_122716.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141213_122716.jpg.html)
I feel like the hangers should have it higher in the tunnel... again I don't have before pictures to compare it to.

Finally the source of all the noise, the muffler is basically a straight pipe. Stay away from CXRacing if you value your hearing.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20141213_122747-1.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141213_122747-1.jpg.html)

vrmm
12-13-2014, 08:40 PM
That does look pretty dang low. I made my exhaust and it scrapes like a mother over speed bumps(not as bad as that though). If you're lowered, which you don't look to be, that would be a nightmare.

redline380
12-13-2014, 08:45 PM
Yeah, that exhaust hangs very low. I thought mine was bad!

Davdraco1
12-13-2014, 09:54 PM
Mine isn't that low at all.... All the hangers line up?

B5A4coastie
12-14-2014, 04:48 AM
Yep the hanger positions are correct. I always get screwed going the cheap route..... One day I'll learn.

vrmm
12-14-2014, 05:35 AM
Fwiw you could bend the rods(that go into the rubber hangers) downward, and for the bracket on the downpipe to the transmission just take it off and drill out the hole so your whole exhaust can be pushed upward and tightened that high. That's what I did and it helped a lot. No reason it wouldn't help. Make sure you don't go way too overboard and crack the steel.

It's good looking exhaust though. What muffler is on it?
Nevermind** " the muffler is basically a straight pipe "
Chop that bad boy off and put a real muffler on. I love mine. No resonator full 3". Vibrant 1047. I don't have any other clips moving. Also it's open dump so your would be a little quieter.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JlyLqZFwrQ&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3Rpo71ThEs&list=UUKZfhsP0pMj6hipPgGNSGfw

B5A4coastie
12-14-2014, 06:59 AM
Thank you for the tips, i'll look into that next week.

vrmm
12-14-2014, 10:06 AM
It should be super cheap to weld on if you can't do it yourself. Maybe look for some euro's in a junk yard and pull one off..

B5A4coastie
02-09-2015, 03:38 AM
I went to dyno my car this weekend and had the car run lean starting at 4K. The crazy thing is I did a WOT run from 4th to 5th when I got on the highway to and from the dyno and didn't have any issues. I ordered a Bosch 040 drop in kit from 034. From what I read, stock (original) fuel pumps can slowly die after a BT installation, so hopefully this is the cure...

B5A4coastie
02-20-2015, 01:30 PM
Some new goodies!

Bosch 040 fuel pump
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150220_141955.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150220_141955.jpg.html)

KW V2s
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150220_141935.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150220_141935.jpg.html)

Mirza.Ramovic
02-20-2015, 01:59 PM
Some new goodies!

Bosch 040 fuel pump
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150220_141955.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150220_141955.jpg.html)

KW V2s
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150220_141935.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150220_141935.jpg.html)

Those coilovers look awesome [drool]

adam044
02-20-2015, 02:08 PM
This thread is great and all but its missing one thing... a picture of your car.

B5A4coastie
02-20-2015, 05:08 PM
Those coilovers look awesome [drool]

They are even better in person, these are extremely well made!


This thread is great and all but its missing one thing... a picture of your car.

The car isn't much to look at from the outside. I prefer the "sleeper" look and right now it's covered in salt. I'll do before and after pictures for the coilovers.

B5A4coastie
02-23-2015, 06:03 PM
I'm sorry about the grainy pictures, my phone got really cold in the garage and those lines show up when I use the flash.... I'm not sure what that's all about.

Out with the old
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150223_125804.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150223_125804.jpg.html)

In with the new
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150223_164551.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150223_164551.jpg.html)

I don't really care for the slammed cars any more, so you can't really tell I have coilovers from a quick glance. It dropped about 1" to 1.5", plus whatever it settles out to.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150223_200108.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150223_200108.jpg.html)

B5A4coastie
04-17-2015, 08:47 PM
This is the official announcement, I purchased a GTX2867R IWG, ATP manifold (I can't afford a tubular) , v-band everything. I am also changing my tune to Eurodyne, three turbos later, I wish I got it the first time. To be fair though, UM has an awesome tune, I just want the ability to fine tune to my specific car.... I'm going to use a 3.5"(thanks Nate) MAF housing from an A8 and stick with the 630cc injectors. I picked up the turbo kit yesterday and purchased the maestro and new TIP hardware, I'm hoping to get the car together mid May.

Avant Nate
04-17-2015, 10:03 PM
The s4 maf is like 3.5 inches, just a heads up

Jerstillman
04-17-2015, 10:30 PM
Keep us posted on how maestro works out for you

B5A4coastie
04-18-2015, 05:54 AM
The s4 maf is like 3.5 inches, just a heads up
Interesting, I bought this from a guy on Vortex and didn't measure it myself until this morning.... I'll edit my post.

I'll besure to keep you posted on the tune and I'll have plenty of pictures to go with it.

ray4624
04-18-2015, 09:14 AM
Um runs pro maf on their stage 4 it is 4" tapering to 3.

Did you get the gtx kit from the part out on cwvortex? That was a real good deal.


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B5A4coastie
04-18-2015, 10:24 AM
Did you get the gtx kit from the part out on cwvortex? That was a real good deal.

I sure did, I saw you asking about it, just minutes before I saw his ad.

Seerlah
04-18-2015, 10:37 AM
We got another BT B5 A4 on Audizine [drive]

ray4624
04-18-2015, 11:32 AM
I sure did, I saw you asking about it, just minutes before I saw his ad.

Yea man it was definitely a good pickup. Can't wait to see the progress!


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B5A4coastie
04-18-2015, 05:06 PM
We got another BT B5 A4 on Audizine [drive]

Yessir! I hope my car doesn't "treat me like a bitch". RAI hates that I'm upgrading, my car runs awesome right now, I hope 30psi doesn't change that.

Seerlah
04-18-2015, 06:11 PM
Almost unavoidable. Just hope they are small kinks and enjoy smooth sailing once they are worked out.

vrmm
04-18-2015, 11:04 PM
There's always something new going wrong with my car pretty much weekly since I got 400whp 35ish psi. It's not a lack of maintenence or too much abuse. It's just how it seems to go. I suppose it's worth it and it's never expensive to fix if you can do the work yourself. Just annoying. Congratulations though! :)

B5A4coastie
04-19-2015, 03:09 AM
Thanks, I don't mind wrenching on my car and I hope is all small stuff. Luckily I have another vehicle for when it's down.

B5A4coastie
04-24-2015, 11:18 AM
Wow, Big turbo means Big money! I can't wait to sell my current setup to pay off the CC!

I have the following parts on the way:

Eurodyne Maestro
New Turbo inlet parts (I have to fab up a custom TIP)
Exhaust manifold gasket (the rest of the setup is v-band)
Extra intercooler piping (new turbo placement)
IEs dowel crank gear kit with ARP bolt
Most of my maintenance is up to date, but I'll see what I can do while I have the front of my car off.

Am I missing anything?

B5A4coastie
04-26-2015, 04:26 PM
I got Maestro cable and was able to read my ECU to send in to Eurodyne, we'll see how long it takes for them to get back, I've read some horror stories.

I had some initial problems getting the ECU to read. I got a "1281 init fail" error, but after reading a few threads I had to turn the ignition on first then plug in the cable and read it...
I'm prepping my garage to get the car in, disassembled and cleaned. I'm prepared to have the car down for a while to ensure I get everything right. I'm debating whether or not to change the CCT, it's still the factory one to my knowledge. Spend the time and money to do it now, or maybe I should just schedule a time to change it in the future. It's a hard choice, just because as of now I don't need to open the engine at all.

rodgertherabit
04-26-2015, 05:03 PM
yeah maestro can be weird sometimes. was waay worse with my AWP... As long as you email Chris or customer service with all the info they're pretty quick. I may have been lucky tho...

B5A4coastie
04-28-2015, 05:56 PM
Two days down and still no reply... While it doesn't matter too much as my car is running fine and I still have to swap everything around, but it would be nice to know whether I can use this extra ECU or not...

B5A4coastie
04-29-2015, 05:37 AM
I sent the follow up email last night and he replied first thing this morning. Just like everything I've read, at least there is consistency.

B5A4coastie
04-30-2015, 03:24 PM
What a struggle it is to read and flash the ECU. These problems are for the AEB, I'm not sure if other ECUs have the same issues or not. First was the learning curve to get the ECU to read (turn ignition on then plug in maestro), now I just spent however long it took me to finish 1-1/2 beers to realize that I needed to use the slow speed in order to flash the ECU.

With all that said, I started typing this post when I finally got the ECU to flash and before I was able to finish the above sentences, it was finished. I'll be sure to keep updating this thread, and maybe start a new thread for AEB-Maestro, as I continue learning/using the software.

Now that my old stock ECU is flashed, I am headed for the classified to sell the UM stage 3 ECU!

Jerstillman
05-02-2015, 08:16 AM
There's a massive thread, about 130pages, about AEB/Maestro but it's so hard to pick out the info you need because it's so long. So yeah you should start a new thread.
I'm thinking about getting Maestro but there's not a lot of good info on what all the tuning tabs do so yes please keep us posted on how everything's going

rodgertherabit
05-02-2015, 08:20 AM
I love Maestro. Once you get the hang of it is fantastic.

People complain about the interface, but thats just your brain freaking you. Once you research and really understand tuning it all makes more sense. (well a little lol , tuning is complicated)

I would suggest finding an experienced local or tuner who is capable and have them get you going. you should be able to get your car on a base file and running. if not you're doing it wrong lol

B5A4coastie
05-04-2015, 05:44 PM
Well I swapped out my crankshaft gear today. I went to Home Depot and got a 2" x 3' aluminum bar for $10, used the pulley as a template and drilled some holes. It started to flex, but I was able to break the bolt loose.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150504_142807.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150504_142807.jpg.html)

Installed the IE doweled crankshaft gear with ARP bolt. My cheapo crankshaft holder broke while doing the 1/4 turn, so I had to wedge my strap oil wrench around the crank pulley. It also broke, but I was able to finish tightening the bolt, so completely worth it.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150504_174034.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150504_174034.jpg.html)

If you look at the intermediate shaft seal, you'll see why I've had oil stains in my driveway. All seals, gaskets, oils, belts and hardware are in route (due Wednesday). I also have my exhaust guy on stand by for Thursday to modify the downpipe and to piece together my custom TIP.

ray4624
05-04-2015, 08:53 PM
usually an impact will take the bolt off.
good progress though [up]

B5A4coastie
05-05-2015, 03:19 AM
usually an impact will take the bolt off.
good progress though [up]

I don't have any air tools.... I don't need them often enough to justify the purchase. Just like a welder....

B5A4coastie
05-09-2015, 06:40 AM
New intermediate shaft seal installed, looks so much better!
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150506_143709.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150506_143709.jpg.html)


Finished my TIP. I'm pretty happy how it turned out.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150505_202727.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150505_202727.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150505_202317.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150505_202317.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150505_213626.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150505_213626.jpg.html)

I just need to figure out this guy. I know it sucks fuel vapors from your gas tank through your TIP, but I don't want to see it. Maybe my fab guy can rig something up.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150508_161005.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150508_161005.jpg.html)

B5A4coastie
05-09-2015, 06:59 AM
As she sits now, well I removed the ramps, but you get the idea.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150508_153556.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150508_153556.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150508_153641.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150508_153641.jpg.html)

I was able to start the car yesterday. It idled for all of 5 seconds, went lean and died. (watch your volume, it's just the downpipe in the video)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/th_20150508_154315.mp4 (http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150508_154315.mp4)

I tried again a second time and added a little throttle, just to keep it from dieing. It idles long enough for me to check for leaks, then dies again. I did this 2 more times and it'll idle with occasional lean moments, but it'll correct itself, however if I turn on the heater (trying to circulate the new coolant I added) or try to raise the rpms it leans out. My AFPR is still at 3.3 bar, I'm starting to think that maestros 630cc tune is set to 4 bar, time to do some research.

Jerstillman
05-09-2015, 07:08 AM
Is it me or is your diverter valve in backwards?

B5A4coastie
05-09-2015, 07:18 AM
Is it me or is your diverter valve in backwards?

Oh wow, I completely over looked that, thank you.

B5A4coastie
05-09-2015, 07:20 AM
I tried to log my starts and idles with maestro, but I had an error saying the ECU was not compatible and I should use the measuring blocks... wtf... more searching required.

Jerstillman
05-09-2015, 07:40 AM
Hey no problem. I kind of did a double take on that picture and was like waitt......... that's not right.

rodgertherabit
05-09-2015, 07:57 AM
Looks like the tip I made for my ppt kit. I run my dv on the drivers side.

Been trying to decide if it's best to keep it there and route a long return or set it up like stock on the passenger side.

Or just say fuck it and keep it mafless and VTA

Avant Nate
05-09-2015, 07:58 AM
Is it me or is your diverter valve in backwards?

Doesn't look backwards to me.

rodgertherabit
05-09-2015, 08:00 AM
Also is that a treadstone tr18 core?

B5A4coastie
05-09-2015, 08:04 AM
Doesn't look backwards to me.

It is according to my other pictures (page2) I put that in according to APRs diagram.


Also is that a treadstone tr18 core?

Yes it is

rodgertherabit
05-09-2015, 08:08 AM
I wish I knew you were looking for a gtx. I was debating on selling mine

Jerstillman
05-09-2015, 08:45 AM
Doesn't look backwards to me.
Well it definitely is backwards and I guarantee it won't hold any boost the way it is now

B5A4coastie
05-09-2015, 04:43 PM
I wish I knew you were looking for a gtx. I was debating on selling mine

Well I wasn't looking for the GTX specifically. I was just browsing the classifieds as usual and spotted a part out. The price was too good to not pick it up.

Murph_129
05-09-2015, 07:24 PM
Mmmm you could just delete the evap? Or just rerun the stuff below your filter out of site.. replace the hardlines with a regular vacuum line so you can route it wherever you want it

rodgertherabit
05-10-2015, 07:53 AM
Well I wasn't looking for the GTX specifically. I was just browsing the classifieds as usual and spotted a part out. The price was too good to not pick it up.

all good mein. I LOVE mine. Not even close to full potential yet...just tempted to go all out.

B5A4coastie
05-10-2015, 09:05 AM
I'm having trouble just keeping my car running (idle). I only have the down pipe attach to the turbo, as I need to get a v-band welded to the dp, but I don't think it's missing any back pressure. My wideband doesn't have a chance to warm up so I can't exactly see the AFR anymore, but it sounds the same as yesterday when I saw it leaning out. I tried raising the AFPR to 4 bar, but that doesn't change anything, it still just dies...

I found out since the AEB ECU isn't wideband, I will have to use the measuring blocks to record data, but I can't get that working either.... [headbang]

B5A4coastie
05-11-2015, 03:10 AM
It looks like I found a silver lining. Any time that your ECU looses power, you should do a throttle body adaptation, well I didn't know that. Immediately after the TBA the car idled perfectly at 880rpm and responded well to throttle changes. I also was able to create a log of it idling. I had to have the ignition on before plugging in the dongle, the com speed set to slow and then click on the datalogger button to open a new window. From there I clicked on the measuring blocks and by some miracle it worked. All I need to do was pick what blocks I wanted logged and select "log data for AEB". Now I need to figure out where the "histogram" is located.

Since the car seemed to be operating normally, I opted to drive it (down pipe only) to my fab guys shop. Everything was fine as long as I kept the load off the engine, which was most of the trip, except when I got to a mile long hill 2 miles out from the shop. I started to detonate due to lean conditions and I was forced into sitting in a parking lot for an hour to wait for AAA. I tried to ride the clutch up the hill, down shifting as the load got too great, but stopping and turning around was inevitable. It still ran down the hill and idled fine in the parking lot, but I hope I didn't damage the pistons in my stupidity. Of course I left my laptop in the garage, so I didn't log anything during the time I was having problems....

He had to put me off until Tuesday, but since he's in an industrial park, I'll be able to inspect my pistons and do some data logging this evening.

apex1
05-11-2015, 04:05 PM
Pretty awesome thread man. I love how you can just pull everything out of the engine bay and rebuild everything no problem. It's something I want to be able to do one day :D

B5A4coastie
05-11-2015, 05:36 PM
Pretty awesome thread man. I love how you can just pull everything out of the engine bay and rebuild everything no problem. It's something I want to be able to do one day :D

I've been working on cars for about 12 years, my comfort level increased little by little, to the point that as long as I have a Haynes manual, I'll give anything a go. The hardest and most expensive part is getting the proper tools.

Seerlah
05-11-2015, 06:16 PM
You should possibly redo your intake. You want at least 3" of straight section before the MAF. It will make for better driveability. I also run a Vibrant short filter [up]

roc-quattro
05-11-2015, 06:24 PM
Just read the whole thread. Great build man!

B5A4coastie
05-11-2015, 07:10 PM
You should possibly redo your intake. You want at least 3" of straight section before the MAF. It will make for better driveability. I also run a Vibrant short filter [up]

I'll look into this in the future, right now the car is at my fab guys shop and well the fact that I do not have any 4" pipe.


Just read the whole thread. Great build man!

Thank you, I really wish I could change the title of the thread, to "My ever changing build of the car deemed Money Pit"

B5A4coastie
05-14-2015, 02:55 AM
You should possibly redo your intake. You want at least 3" of straight section before the MAF. It will make for better driveability. I also run a Vibrant short filter [up]

Well after 8ish hours of trying to adjust the fueling for my car, I'm ready to try something new. Hopefully I can find some 4" aluminum pipe and a coupler locally.

Seerlah
05-14-2015, 05:59 AM
Does your MAF have a mesh screen to break up the intake air before it hits the sensor element? If not, you can also add your own mesh on the coupler that will attach to the MAF. Make sure the passage ways are on the bigger side (look at the stock one for reference) to not restrict flow by blocking the passage way. Try to mimic the stock MAF in a nutshell, and allow at least 3" of straight section before the MAF.

B5A4coastie
05-14-2015, 08:18 AM
Yes, it's a plastic mesh.

B5A4coastie
05-14-2015, 01:11 PM
Well I added about 4" of pipe in between the MAF and filter. It drives for a little and then seems the hit a wall. Like limp mode on steroids, it's not driveable after that point, I have to reflash my ecu inorder to go anywhere. Progress? Yes, but frustrating!

B5A4coastie
05-17-2015, 06:12 AM
My new intake setup.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150516_164808.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150516_164808.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150516_150102.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150516_150102.jpg.html)

It's not very appealing, but it flows nicely. Upon further inspection I found oil in the MAF housing and on the sensor. I wiped out the housing and blew through the sensor, something hit my hand as I blew out the sensor, but I never saw what it was. I don't have MAF cleaner and I'm debating picking up some or just forking out the money for a new sensor, I read a few places where the cleaner was more of a temporary fix and the problems of drive-ability comes back. I'm not throwing any codes, so I'm just shooting in the dark.

B5A4coastie
05-21-2015, 12:57 PM
She lives!!! I had a bad connection for the 5v power source. I soldered everything and the car runs again!!! I will never use connectors again!

B5A4coastie
07-24-2015, 07:34 PM
I finally made it to the dragstrip, not too bad. I still have some tuning to do, but I think I can break 12.99.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150724_220818.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150724_220818.jpg.html)

cjt671
07-24-2015, 07:37 PM
That's awesome!

B5A4coastie
07-25-2015, 04:36 AM
Thank you! I was hoping for mid 13s, when I picked up those tickets I was ecstatic.

B5A4coastie
07-28-2015, 03:14 AM
So on my last pass I felt the car pull timing and I saw I was running very rich. I reset the fuel trims and verified the afpr was still set correctly. I still have the problem at 3/4-full throttle so I guess it's tuning related, but why only after drag racing?

My guess is I had a clog somewhere that was restricting fuel, I mean tunes don't just change on thier own..... Regardless I will make some adjustments and see how the car adapts. Has anyone else seen this before?

B5A4coastie
08-27-2015, 01:20 PM
Well I fixed my problem above..... boost leak, torn coupler to be exact. I repaired that and tweaked the fueling and upped the boost... 31PSI!!! Talk about whiplash, I was not ready for that. Sadly neither was my turbo.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/th_20150827_151306.mp4 (http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/20150827_151306.mp4)

Has anyone replaced the O-ring between the compressor housing and the CHRA?

Edit: The GTX frame does not have an O-ring there and ATP says this is normal..... weird, but ok.

The only reason I was looking for a boost leak was due to a crazy sound happening ~15PSI. The ATP rep talked with me for 20 minutes and at the end he says it's the DV blowing by. At first I was thinking this guy doesn't know what he's talking about, but the more I think about it, the sound my car makes is the same that is produced in between shifts, except it happens while I'm still on the throttle.....

ATP - 1
ME - 0

B5A4coastie
12-09-2015, 06:52 PM
Wow, it's been a while since my last update. Well the DV was fine, but there was a tear in the coupling on the IM side of the DV. Since then I have been able to see 30 PSI with confidence.

I got the 034 Motorsports sway bar in place and it's awesome, my second favorite upgrade after the turbo. I just wish the install wasn't such a PITA! Here are some pictures and videos of the install. Hopefully they will help others.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/th_VID_20150927_174129358.mp4 (http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/VID_20150927_174129358.mp4)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/th_VID_20150927_174518726.mp4 (http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/VID_20150927_174518726.mp4)

In order to even get the damn bolt in the brace I had to use one of the small bolts from the bottom of the brace to mount it to the subframe.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150927_165827898.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150927_165827898.jpg.html)

I then had to use a few washers to keep the longer bolt from bottoming out. A trip to the hardware store might have been a better move, but they are holding nicely.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150927_181622984.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150927_181622984.jpg.html)

Of course removing the old links couldn't have been easy, or in my case even possible (this is as far out as I could get them), so upgraded links it is.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150927_163420835.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150927_163420835.jpg.html)

It is a beautiful piece of metal though!
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150927_200753318.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150927_200753318.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150927_200725334.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150927_200725334.jpg.html)

I love the slight camber it gave my rear, it reminds me of looking at a X5's ass end.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151001_124426402_HDR_1.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151001_124426402_HDR_1.jpg.html)





The car is still leaking oil from the front of the engine(I thought replacing the intermediate shaft seal would have fixed it) hind sight says I should have replaced the crankshaft seal while I was there. Well once I get a tool to hold the gear I'll replace that one too and hopefully have a leak free car again.

I have a little over a year until I transfer again and I'm debating on selling or parting out the car prior to leaving, it'll be expensive to move a third vehicle back across the country.

cjt671
12-09-2015, 09:32 PM
Rear sway bar is definitely a must on this chassis! Awesome to hear you're enjoying it[emoji16]

B5A4coastie
01-06-2016, 03:19 AM
Update to recent events:

I thought I had to replace my front main oil seal due to oil leaks, however it was fine, so I replaced the oil pan gasket in hopes of stopping the stains in my driveway and at work. After all work was complete the car doesn't idle properly. I verified every timing mark possible, all are spot on. I did a TBA and looked for any unplugged sensors, broken wires or ruptured hoses and reflashed my tune. All look ok, I still have a crank position sensor to check, compression test and spark plug test to do. After that, maybe a new MAF.... In the words of Seerlah - "My car is acting like a bitch".

I was playing with the idea of parting it out, but I don't really have the space to park a disassembled car and then what do I do about the frame, etc when I'm tired of looking at it? I know that it will be easier to sell the car as a whole (running). However I will take a huge loss on the car (which is to be expected I guess).

Quick Car Bio:

This is a parts list and the rounded prices I have paid for them. This is how the car sits now, not including what I had for the two other turbos that have been installed. This also doesn't include any labor for machining.

The Odometer sits at 110K I've owned the car since 85K and most of these parts only have 15K and under (I didn't list when they where installed, but I have that in a log).

Scat rods - 400
Supertech Valve springs and retainers - 450
Supertech Inconel Exhaust Valves - 250
Oil Pump/pickup - 140
IE crankgear dowel pin kit/ ARP bolt - 215
RAI Stage 2 clutch kit - 720
Treadstone TR18/ piping kit - 380
034 compact fluid cooler - 48
IE Catch can - 320
IE MBC - 100
034 transmission mounts - 100
RS4 motor mounts - 280
034 coil cover - 38
ATP V-band manifold - 400
V-band GTX2867R - 1500
RAI Vband downpipe - 210
DP back custom exhaust - 500
034 FSI coil conversion - 250
JHM Trio - 300
034 swaybar/ frame brackets/ end links - 600
KW V2 - 1800
16 sport rims with tires - 500
Alpine 6- SPS 610c/ 610 - 230
Alpine CDE-143 BT Head unit - 130
VEI Boost/ Oil pressure gauge/ column mount/ 42draftdesign parts - 250
ECS SS brake lines - 110
Window tint - 350
APR R1 DV - 150
Apikol sunb mount - 30
Bosch rear O2 sensor - 105
Bosch 040 drop in kit - 455
drilled and slotted rotors F&R- 300
ECS adjustable fuel pressure regulator and gauge kit - 170
V8 MAF housing and new sensor -200
Eurodyne Maestro - 900

B5A4coastie
01-06-2016, 03:21 PM
And the lovely reason why my car doesn't run has been chased down to #4 cylinder not having any compression.

Some interesting facts about my engine:

Then:
1) The head was rebuilt in June/2014 with new exhaust valves, valve retainers, reground the head for the valves, new springs and retainers.
2) Scat rods were installed at that same time frame, same pistons, new wrist pins, bearings and rings.
3) The cylinder walls were deglazed.
4) A new head gasket was used for reassembly.

Now:
1) The piston still moves up and down, in sink with the #1 piston (as it should).
2) There are no wear marks in the piston where a valve would have made contact (using a cheap scope).
3) Cylinders 1-3 have 185-195 PSI during the compression test.

My thoughts:
1) The valves are probably not the issue.
2) I'm leaning on the rings, it's the only thing that makes sense to me right now.
3) If there was a hole somewhere I would for sure know it.
4) If it was the head gasket, the other three cylinders wouldn't be so high.
5) I would rather someone take the car as it sits for $6000, than deal with a part out.
6) I have no idea how to prove it's the rings at fault.
7) Maybe if I keep refreshing this browser, someone will tell me they'll buy the car or what they think cause the compression loss.

B5A4coastie
01-08-2016, 02:25 PM
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160108_163712708.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160108_163712708.jpg.html)

Ladies and gentlemen I give you my compression problem.

PringlesInVic
01-08-2016, 03:54 PM
Boo. That really sucks. On a very slighty brighter note, it's easier to fix than rings.

I hope you decide to fix it. This thread was one my B5 inspirations, and one of the reason I decided to do a build thread for mine.

I'd hate to see you part out the car after all the work you've done. But I totally get reaching the end of your rope with it though. Frustrating for sure.

Any warranty on valve?

nynoah
01-08-2016, 04:08 PM
Sorry to hear about your situation. I am local to you in Baltimore too. I am currently dealing with a head issue too. JB machine in Rosedale is the best place around.

B5A4coastie
01-09-2016, 04:41 AM
Boo. That really sucks. On a very slighty brighter note, it's easier to fix than rings.

I hope you decide to fix it. This thread was one my B5 inspirations, and one of the reason I decided to do a build thread for mine.

I'd hate to see you part out the car after all the work you've done. But I totally get reaching the end of your rope with it though. Frustrating for sure.

Any warranty on valve?

Thanks for the kind words, I am going to fix and keep it. I have a surprise coming, so stay tuned.

- - - Updated - - -


Sorry to hear about your situation. I am local to you in Baltimore too. I am currently dealing with a head issue too. JB machine in Rosedale is the best place around.

Thanks for the recommendation, that's who did my head back in 2014 and I plan on returning, great work is an understatement.

PringlesInVic
01-09-2016, 10:18 AM
Thanks for the kind words, I am going to fix and keep it. I have a surprise coming, so stay tuned.

I do enjoy surprises, and now I'm wondering where you're gonna go with this. Hmmm.... Guess I'll have to wait and see. Glad you're keeping her.

B5A4coastie
02-03-2016, 05:14 PM
Well, I guess it's about time I tell you all what I've been up to.


http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/015.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/015.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/098.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/098.jpg.html)

My new head, Port and Polished, Supertech valves all around, new CCT and chain, IE Street intake cam, ARP headbolts!!!!


Her she lies in pieces.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160117_122607559.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160117_122607559.jpg.html)

Head on, I got the long triple square allen from Metalnerd.com. Great quality tools and quick shipping.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160117_141432368.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160117_141432368.jpg.html)

Valve cover on, at this point I was waiting for the second most exciting part for the car. Can you guess what it is? I also primed the oil pump, I used a screwdriver through the IM shaft gear and spun it as quick as I could. It built pressure pretty quick and I could hear the oil dripping after a while.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160117_153029512.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160117_153029512.jpg.html)

I was reminded why there are torque specifications while I was replacing the oil pan gasket. I don't know how I got so lucky for the whole bolt to come out.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151230_124352394.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151230_124352394.jpg.html)

I thought I had more than normal drive train slop that last few weeks of driving the car..... Here's what I found. Replaced by 034s mounts (both sides).

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151230_130107705.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151230_130107705.jpg.html)

During the wait for parts I bought ECSs hood grill. Before and after. The front of the car is still off waiting on vacuum lines. I'll post a full front picture on a later date.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151230_151505766.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151230_151505766.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151230_152731680.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20151230_152731680.jpg.html)

alexharvey72
02-03-2016, 10:34 PM
Just read this whole thread, I love how the build morphed from your original idea. The title is also hilarious


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

PringlesInVic
02-03-2016, 11:25 PM
Nice work! She'll be up and running in no time.

I'm very interested in seeing how you like the 034 trans mounts. I have SERIOUS slop in my drivetrain, and was thinking upgrading to those vs. stock mounts.

Can't wait for your next post.

B5A4coastie
02-04-2016, 04:07 PM
Just read this whole thread, I love how the build morphed from your original idea. The title is also hilarious

Thanks, the car made all the decisions by itself, I just provided the money and labor.


Nice work! She'll be up and running in no time.

I'm very interested in seeing how you like the 034 trans mounts. I have SERIOUS slop in my drivetrain, and was thinking upgrading to those vs. stock mounts.

Can't wait for your next post.

I didn't like the upgraded motor mounts I had from Stern, but the vibrations shouldn't be so harsh on the transmission..... I'll keep you updated.

B5A4coastie
02-05-2016, 04:38 AM
OK here it is, IE manifold and VR6 TB. There's no sense in having a free flowing head if it can't get as much air as possible. I went through Ringer Racing for the order (best price and top notch customer service), but had to get the 80mm Manifold with a 70mm reducer, IE was out of stock with the 70mm manifolds with no estimated time for availability. Mike helped me out with the minor headaches with this order. The 80mm manifold doesn't include the DBC bracket and the install kit bolts are designed for the S4 TB (50mm long), the VR6 TB is thinner, requiring 40mm bolts. A quick trip to Fastenal made that an easy obstacle. IE has a tapped hole in the spacer though, so I have the option for W/M down the road!

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160202_143927603.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160202_143927603.jpg.html)
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160202_143918613.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160202_143918613.jpg.html)

This side by side shows just how big this manifold is.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160120_142459787.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160120_142459787.jpg.html)

So I'm finishing up my vacuum lines (since most of them changed positions) and I have this lil' guy left.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160202_144043937.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160202_144043937.jpg.html)

He used to this thing-a-ma-jig here. Was that the cruise control? It never worked anyway if it was. Can I remove anything else with it? I would love to declutter the engine bay more.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160202_144100555.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160202_144100555.jpg.html)



Well that's about it right now, I have to get a new coupler since the OD of the TB is 3" instead of 2.5" (stock). It is also closer to the driver side headlight, but I hope to be able to reuse my current piping and just trim a little back. So I'm just piecing the car back together at a leisurely pace yet again waiting on parts.... With my tax return, I think I'll get a HFC installed. I know I'll be headed back to the west coast soon and my find myself in California again..... Might as well do it now while I have the money, also if the O2 sensors don't fix my readiness problem, then that might be the next step.

B5A4coastie
02-05-2016, 04:38 PM
She LIVES!!!!!!!! Idles sooo smooth, good throttle response, and no leaks so far. I'm so stoked to driver her around tomorrow!

PringlesInVic
02-05-2016, 10:14 PM
Awesome! Congrats, glad to see you fixed her and didn't part her out. I think you made the right choice. That mani is massive. Actually everything about this build is massive. Good work as usual.

OverSpun
02-05-2016, 11:11 PM
In order to even get the damn bolt in the brace I had to use one of the small bolts from the bottom of the brace to mount it to the subframe.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150927_165827898.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150927_165827898.jpg.html)

I then had to use a few washers to keep the longer bolt from bottoming out. A trip to the hardware store might have been a better move, but they are holding nicely.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150927_181622984.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150927_181622984.jpg.html)

Of course removing the old links couldn't have been easy, or in my case even possible (this is as far out as I could get them), so upgraded links it is.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150927_163420835.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150927_163420835.jpg.html)[/URL]


There we go, thanks again for your ideas from your install. It was definitely an adventure of a swaybar install compared with all the last ones that I have installed on past cars. At least your factory bar came off "easy", that looks like what happened with one side of mine. I felt like hacking my factory links off to take the bar off due to a very seized nut. I had to take a break until my new links came in. I'm also very happy with my bar and links.

B5A4coastie
02-06-2016, 04:53 AM
I'm also very happy with my bar and links.

You and me both, Hi quality parts!

B5A4coastie
02-08-2016, 01:13 PM
Went for a drive on Saturday morning, no oil leaks yet, I'm pretty excited about that, but I only drove about 15 miles. After it sat I saw a coolant leak from the back of the head...... I knew I should have replaced that o-ring.... I have a whole new assembly coming, o-ring, housing, temp sensor, clips..... I hope it gets here before the snow.

Here's a look with the ECS front grille, I like it! Don't mind the missing fog lights, I didn't want to assemble everything if I had to pull it back apart after the test drive. I'll get around to repainting the IC piping too. I have to keep the sleeper look intact!

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160206_091422648.jpg (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/LTcoastieR/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160206_091422648.jpg.html)

Avant Nate
02-08-2016, 05:56 PM
Any issuesuggestions using the VR6 TB and Maestro? I remember Zimbu having a bitch of time with idle.

redline380
02-08-2016, 06:01 PM
Any issuesuggestions using the VR6 TB and Maestro? I remember Zimbu having a bitch of time with idle.

Pretty sure there is a AWP base file for that setup. All the more reason to upgrade to AWM management with Maestro! Lots of basemaps.

B5A4coastie
02-09-2016, 06:23 AM
Any issuesuggestions using the VR6 TB and Maestro? I remember Zimbu having a bitch of time with idle.

I had zero issues with idle or driveability. I did replace both O2 sensors and the crank sensor, not sure if any of those would cause the idle issue you speak of. I just cycled my key 3 times before starting allowing for the TBA to take place (I've learned that the hard way, twice). I didn't go high boost, maybe 6 psi tops, I was just listening to everything. The turbo makes a loud whistle now at -8 vacuum and up (think of an idling straight piped powerstroke). https://youtu.be/tln3xJfVdHw

Maybe I'll try to get a video of the sound next week.

B5A4coastie
02-19-2016, 09:37 AM
Here's a quick video with the whistle sound. It's louder outside of the car (driving through a tunnel is crazy). I'll do a boost leak test, hopefully I'll find something. Before the head swap I had 30 psi at 55% wastegate duty cycle now I cranked it up to 75% and I only get 24 psi. I hope it's only a boost leak and not any issue with the turbo itself.

http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/th_VID_20160219_113608677.mp4 (http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad316/LTcoastieR/Mobile%20Uploads/VID_20160219_113608677.mp4)

thrilos5
02-19-2016, 11:19 AM
Thanks for all the info you provided

PringlesInVic
02-19-2016, 01:43 PM
That's some nice whistle. I am very envious. I need more whistle.

B5A4coastie
02-20-2016, 05:45 AM
Thanks for all the info you provided

I'm trying to be a thorough as possible, I'm glad you are finding this thread useful.


That's some nice whistle. I am very envious. I need more whistle.

Right now that whistle isn't a good thing. I normally have a nice DV sound (not as loud as a BOV would be) during shifts. I'll update more when I find what the cause is, I'm pretty sure I'm losing power because of it.

cjt671
02-20-2016, 09:47 PM
I'm trying to be a thorough as possible, I'm glad you are finding this thread useful.



Right now that whistle isn't a good thing. I normally have a nice DV sound (not as loud as a BOV would be) during shifts. I'll update more when I find what the cause is, I'm pretty sure I'm losing power because of it.
Hoping you figure this one out, I get the same sound when in vacuum never thought it was an issue cause I'm not leaking boost..

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

OverSpun
02-20-2016, 10:02 PM
Will,

The only time that I ever had an obnoxiously loud whistle sound from my first B5 and it was when an exhaust shop decided to cut my Borla/AWE downpipe in half and weld it onto my factory DP for my new exhaust. I had another shop to repair it but I am sure you have a different issue.

B5A4coastie
02-21-2016, 05:25 AM
Hoping you figure this one out, I get the same sound when in vacuum never thought it was an issue cause I'm not leaking boost..

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Interesting, but nothing while under boost? Do you have to be driving to hear it, or can you be at idle?


Will,

The only time that I ever had an obnoxiously loud whistle sound from my first B5 and it was when an exhaust shop decided to cut my Borla/AWE downpipe in half and weld it onto my factory DP for my new exhaust. I had another shop to repair it but I am sure you have a different issue.

Yeah a friend of mine suggested it could be an exhaust leak as well. I will try to get to a leak test today if the rain holds off, if I can't find it there I might rent a dyno for an hour to try and chase it down.

cjt671
02-21-2016, 05:29 AM
Interesting, but nothing while under boost? Do you have to be driving to hear it, or can you be at idle?



Yeah a friend of mine suggested it could be an exhaust leak as well. I will try to get to a leak test today if the rain holds off, if I can't find it there I might rent a dyno for an hour to try and chase it down.
Yeah only in vacuum, it's more noticeable in higher gear with very light throttle at around -10 in..
No whistling at idle, is yours?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

B5A4coastie
02-21-2016, 07:04 AM
Yeah only in vacuum, it's more noticeable in higher gear with very light throttle at around -10 in..
No whistling at idle, is yours?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

No, mine is only during driving. I found the leak, I tightened a clamp too hard and flattened the end of the pipe.

I'm on my phone at the moment, so I'm sorry if you have mods in your signature, but are you stock turbo?

cjt671
02-21-2016, 07:06 AM
No, mine is only during driving. I found the leak, I tightened a clamp too hard and flattened the end of the pipe.

I'm on my phone at the moment, so I'm sorry if you have mods in your signature, but are you stock turbo?
Stock turbos (s4) maybe I'll pressure test again...

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B5A4coastie
02-21-2016, 01:49 PM
Depending on mileage a turbo could be on it's way out, but I would think you would heard it all the time. If you have time I would check the shaft play of the turbos and see if the turbine blades are rubbing the housing.

I don't know much about S4s though.

B5A4coastie
05-13-2016, 12:08 PM
It's a said day........ She's for sale:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/707316-BAT-car-giveaway-Half-of-the-cost-of-parts-installed?p=11620454#post11620454

PringlesInVic
05-13-2016, 04:13 PM
It was a good run. Hopefully it goes to an enthusiast who knows what they're getting!

You already got another project in mind?

B5A4coastie
05-13-2016, 05:57 PM
It was a good run. Hopefully it goes to an enthusiast who knows what they're getting!

You already got another project in mind?

Yep, planning a wedding, the money from this will go toward it.