Ive had it with the allroad!

[canadianA4B7]

So recently been nothing but issues, electriclly it seems like its got demons. And the air ride decided it no longer interested in working. The battery wont remain charged.

So here i ask have past ar drivers seen the module killing the battery due to trying to level the car while not running? In return killing the entire electrical system. Once jumped ive got no signals, or wipers. I dont get it!

Can anyone confirm if i go to coilovers i can code out or just remove all electrical components that are associated with the air ride and be done with those issues?

Or last of all whos interested in allroad parts! Lol that will be my last resort. But im getting very short with the car these days that does not seem to want to work!

[G0to60]

Can you try to leave it in Jack Mode over night to see if that fixes it? It should keep the air suspension from changing heights so perhaps would keep the controller from constantly pulling power. Worth a shot to at least narrow down the issue. I'm not sure about if it's all related though. Bummer that all this happened at once.

[canadianA4B7]

I no longer have any power/control of the air system. The dash lights are out and not returning on. I think it may have cooked some wires perhaps some fuses. I looked quickly a while ago but have plans for tonite and dont quite have time to diagnose.

The module must be fried as ive lost other electrical systems not related to the air ride. Perhaps it back fed something and damaged some relays, ie the wipers and signal relays. Yet 4 way flashers still work. Its gonna take some searching to figure this out! Hopefully i can find sone suspension parts and override the air system. Hopefully that will erase all this nightmare.

[Racin2redline]

Having low voltage can wreak havoc on all different modules on cars. Try dojng something simple like replacing the battery and having the alternator tested

[canadianA4B7]

Alternator brand new battery is the same!

[ENDEE666]

Unplug the suspension module and see if the other things come back to working. When I was troubleshooting my air issues I had the module unplugged and everything else worked fine. Except ESP, I could not turn that off when my module went bad. If your issue is just the module, replacing just that fixed everything for me. Plug & play.

But if you are having problems with so many other things, I really doubt it is linked to the air suspension module alone. I would look into finding how they are connected. If they run off a common relay, or if they are after something in a circuit, something like that. Maybe something shorting out in those main relays under the dash by the steering column?

Another thing you might want to check out is if there is any water in your front floors, under the mats & carpet. My friend's B5.5 ended up totaled because of water getting into his floors and shorting out the various computer modules in there. His issue turned out to be his cowl drains by the battery were clogged and backed up water into the cabin. He had similar things, like directional not working, and locks not working, mirrors not working, windows not working, and a bunch of other crap that seemed unaffiliated.

Another thought, what year is your Allroad? I wonder if maybe this could be a Can Bus issue? I know very little about that, so that may be an utterly pointless suggestion lol....

Either way man, good luck with it! And don't give up!

[Racin2redline]

Alternator brand new battery is the same!

:0

What about a bad voltage regulator? . I feel like having all or most of the modules (suspension CCM ect) maybe has to be something related to improper input voltage? Just a thought.

X2 on the water something may have gotten wet

[canadianA4B7]

I'll check the floors when I get home. And voltage reg was on the new alternator. But it's a possibility. I'll need to get the car somewhere warm to do a lil poking around. I read somewhere that the cold temp on batteries can cause issues as well. Cold and brittle then heated when turned on could cause things to break. I appreciate the input from everyone I'm going to attempt to keep from parting out.

[ENDEE666]

It's really just revenge from us New Yorkers for this Polar Vortex shit. Take your COLD Canadian air back and we will make your car work again.

Love,
The people of New York..

[canadianA4B7]

Lol best part about what youve said is the car was bought at manhattan audi vw, and it came equipped with the cold weather package. So to you new york your cold weather package was clearly designed for florida or new mexico! Lol the cold is the best time of the year, should increase turbo performance which is great, or freeze the crap outta everything and fuck up my entire car!

So the floors are dry, i think battery is going to be returned, im gonna do parasitic amperage test and im going to unplug all the air ride components. Latest vag com shows a short in the interior lighting, and the passengers seat. So theres 2 spots to investigate. Im going to check out the fuse 34 again perhaps it blew after i just replaced it.

For the time being my A4 will be taken out of storage. I hope the weather doesnt fuck up the racekor!

heres how the the ar sits right now, shes dropped down on level one and the passengers side rear looks like this.

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000691_zps9dd11f20.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000691_zps9dd11f20.jpg.html)
its resting as low as it car go. likely a hole in this bag.

[canadianA4B7]

Unplug the suspension module and see if the other things come back to working. When I was troubleshooting my air issues I had the module unplugged and everything else worked fine. Except ESP, I could not turn that off when my module went bad. If your issue is just the module, replacing just that fixed everything for me. Plug & play.

But if you are having problems with so many other things, I really doubt it is linked to the air suspension module alone. I would look into finding how they are connected. If they run off a common relay, or if they are after something in a circuit, something like that. Maybe something shorting out in those main relays under the dash by the steering column?



Another thought, what year is your Allroad? I wonder if maybe this could be a Can Bus issue? I know very little about that, so that may be an utterly pointless suggestion lol....

Either way man, good luck with it! And don't give up!

im going to look into this where is the module located is this the one at the back of the car near the air tank?

im not exactly sure where this thing is. but im going to find it and unhook it. another member has also suggested to hook up another ground to the battery just to confirm a proper ground connection. so when i get some time from my hectic schedual im going to tackle these few things and hope for the best

[rogersb6]

It's just forward of the tool kit:
http://www.blauparts.com/assets/allroad_suspension/audi_allroad_control_module.jpg

And I don't think you need to remove the panel to unplug it either, but maybe someone can confirm that.

[rogersb6]

Also, you might find this link interesting, it is the source of the image: http://www.blauparts.com/audi_allroad_suspension/audi_allroad_airbag_suspension_conversion_kit.html

[canadianA4B7]

Also, you might find this link interesting, it is the source of the image: http://www.blauparts.com/audi_allroad_suspension/audi_allroad_airbag_suspension_conversion_kit.html
thanx for the link. ill keep plugging along with whatever info im offered and whatever ideas the forum provides.

[ENDEE666]

I just replaced my module recently. You will not have to completely remove the trim panel, but you will have to undo the rear part of it so you can peel it away to access the module. The module has a big harness on the bottom, and a smaller one on the side facing into the hatch area. Two total. Plus a ground wire that screws to the side of the module. Removing the panel was not bad. Remove the aluminum strip (T20 or T25 Torx) that goes across the back of the hatch floor, with the latch in it. Remove (phillips) screws for the D hook (for bungee cords & cargo net) and a hidden (phillips) screw in the notch that the retracting cargo cover goes into. I think that's it. The rest is pop off clips. There is a how-to around somewhere about removing the hatch panels. I didn't save the link..

As for module compatibility, what year is your car? I had trouble finding one for my 2001 because only 2001 had its own version. 02-05 can all use the other version, which is a LOT more available.. 4Z7 907 553B or H is the 2001. Change the last letter to E or F for the 2002-2005 version.

[ENDEE666]

Have you checked the air suspension codes in Vag Com? Under Chassis, then module 34. Once you click on that, the top will also show which revision of the suspension module you have. But I predict it will also have some info on what the issues are..

Can you get the car to raise at all? If so, raise it and spray very soapy/sudsy water on the bags themselves. Then watch & listen for air bubbles fizzing. Just like looking for tire leaks. Best to do it without jacking the car. Just lay under the car (from behind & front) so you can see the bags that way. If it will not go that high, maybe put the rears on ramps..

Putting it in jack mode is the best way to check for leaky bags. Put it in jack mode at all 4 heights and let it sit a while each time. My leak issue only showed up at level 2 & 1. But it would hold 3 & 4 fine. Start high. If it leaks at 4, it will likely leak at all levels.

[8520]

If you have small enough hands, you can unplug the module without removing the side panel.

[Scotty@Advanced]

Didn't you have other electrical issues with that car?

[canadianA4B7]

Scotty you are correct! I did it was alternator, and battery and engine, clutch flywheel pressure plate! The alternator may actually be shit yet again. I found a loose ground under the coolant tank aswell. Is there anything else you could suggest for electrical issues Scotty?

[canadianA4B7]

Unhooked air control module, checked vag com mostly low voltage fault codes. Will not start even with booster. Likely bad battery/starter/alternator. Performed parasitic amperage test showing no larger current draw while system is off. This is strange. Im gonna see if i can exchange battery.

Can anyone tell me where more of the ground posts are in and around the engine bay? Or how about under the dash?

[Zachariah]

OP - I feel ya. Mine went on sale today...

[8520]

Unhooked air control module, checked vag com mostly low voltage fault codes. Will not start even with booster. Likely bad battery/starter/alternator. Performed parasitic amperage test showing no larger current draw while system is off. This is strange. Im gonna see if i can exchange battery.

Can anyone tell me where more of the ground posts are in and around the engine bay? Or how about under the dash?

I think there's a large gauge one on the pass side frame rail, near the front of the car.

Do you have a multimeter? What's the battery read?

[canadianA4B7]

Battery reads 4.2V

And i will be returning it tonite, Ive only had it a short while but its been nothing but problems. I dont get it. Ive gotta check grounds, perhaps the alternator/starter bolts have backed out since motor was installed.

Ill perform amperage test again once i have a good battery to see if i can find the short. And ill post up most recent results from vag com when i get home from school. Lots of short to Plus and voltage below normal stuff. But that was obvious.

[rogersb6]

When you get the new battery in maybe you can clear and pull codes before you try to start it. That way you might be able to pinpoint things without the veil of low voltage faults.

Good Luck!

[8520]

Yeah. Update us once you swap the battery and we can go from there.

[canadianA4B7]

When you get the new battery in maybe you can clear and pull codes before you try to start it. That way you might be able to pinpoint things without the veil of low voltage faults.

Good Luck!

Yes thats what i have planned. I tried to just jump it but no avail yesterday. I may hook up car to battery charger and see if shell start that way aswell, to confirm ive got a shitty battery. If shell run off of a charger but not the battery the battery is cooked. Lil risky but this cars been nothin but risks lately. Maybe i need a high cold crank amps, or perhaps 2 12V batteries cause the cold as fuck canadian weather..... Sounds stupid but i read the discovery channel land rovers ran extra batteried when crossing the arctic so they had better stable CCA and longer lasting batts.

[canadianA4B7]

Returned battery, it was 2 low for them to even test it, which may result in just getting a replacement. They also suggested another way to test electrical systems. Bought a new test light and plan on doing some more checking/testing tomorrow. I should have picked up a replacement ground wire but will get that sorted tomorrow. Fingers crossed i can find something thats drawing power when system is off.

[|Chaz|]

If a battery is so dead to a certain point you won't even be able to jump it. I had to trickle charge the battery for my daily beater for a week and a half before it was fully charged. I couldn't believe it.

[yellorado]

i feel ya, my car has all kinds of weird electrical gremlims right now, but im crossing my fingers that the wild changing temperature with rain and 0c. to -25c and back to 0 and a ton of snow and then something else (you get the point!) for the past weeks is to blame... like humidity or water is getting in sensors or connectors type thing.

car is still driving great, so im trying to ignore the issues right now[wrench]!!!

[canadianA4B7]

i feel ya, my car has all kinds of weird electrical gremlims right now, but im crossing my fingers that the wild changing temperature with rain and 0c. to -25c and back to 0 and a ton of snow and then something else (you get the point!) for the past weeks is to blame... like humidity or water is getting in sensors or connectors type thing.

car is still driving great, so im trying to ignore the issues right now[wrench]!!!
Currently mine is sitting in the driveway, I have got battery tested, and charged. Ive had no time as its test week this week and next for school. I will get at it when time permits. But studies are consuming my time. I am assuming I do have a short. Perhaps some of the nuts and bolts were not tightened to spec when motor went in. The shop has agreed to check it over at no cost as they admitted it could have been something missed. Which i understand. I hope to put in a few hours trouble shooting electrical, inspecting the sagging right side. And go from there some used bags may be all I need. Perhaps arnotts. Many members have offered parts and when time funds are set I can move forward with the ar.

[canadianA4B7]

Anyone know if i can just drop in rear coilovers/A6 suspension and leave the front on air? Just curious. I remeber reading somewhere there was someone making a unit to independently control front and back, maybe i could just go static rear, with adjustable front. Sounds stupid but i thought id ask.

[G0to60]

Why would you want to have the front adjustable? I would think having the rear be adjustable would be much better so you could level the car with a load in the back or a trailer.

Anyway, you could probably do it but I think you have to go with an aftermarket air management system to get that kind of control.

[LINDW4LL]

Anyone know if i can just drop in rear coilovers/A6 suspension and leave the front on air? Just curious. I remeber reading somewhere there was someone making a unit to independently control front and back, maybe i could just go static rear, with adjustable front. Sounds stupid but i thought id ask.
I think it would work, you'd probably just have to plug the air lines that went to the rear bags previously.

But if you're going through the effort, you might as well just put coilovers front and rear.

[canadianA4B7]

im trying to avoid a steep bill right now, as im a student. so im on fixed budget. only trying to weigh my options. i would like to retain complete allroad capabilities as it is an allroad!!! im considering just grabbing a set of arnott rear bags and struts and putting them in. with hopes that it not the module.

the car has maintained height at the other 3 corners and no batt for a week or more. so can i assume that the other bags are fine, and solenoids working fine? if so the arnott rears might just be the best option. when funds become more readily available. for time being i found a set of a6 rears complete for like $70.... so im also considering that as an immediate solution. ive got a good hook up for CNC work and may have some spacers made to keep the rears from looking to low.

options option options so many ideas ive got going through my head and all the help here is great. i just need to decide on something and go with it. if i can override the rear bags for a bit and just be able to adjust the fronts for a few months id be happy with that. its not like im taking it offroad or anything right now. no major road trips planned just need it for getting around.

[canadianA4B7]

After a great amount of bullshit ive finally got the ar started. I have to leave the air ride unplugged, the battery is charging in the car, she remains running if i remove the batt when running which would mean the alternator is fine. Ive got some vag com codes saved on laptop which is still in the car. I did a parasitic amperage test which shows a the light on when no systems are on. But after pulling every fuse the light does not tune off. Perhaps a bad relay? My stereo turned back on the heater works, headlights, wipers, signals heated seats, interior lights, everything works! Just no air ride because its not plugged in.

Should i plug it back in and see if the lights on dash come back on for the air? And see if perhaps it will pump the bags up to level 3 so that i can drive? Then remove the air moduale again and see if she drops down again?

it also seems that my clutch switch may be acting up. I have to really push down on the pedal to start the car. anyone ever experienced this b4?

[8520]

After a great amount of bullshit ive finally got the ar started. I have to leave the air ride unplugged, the battery is charging in the car, she remains running if i remove the batt when running which would mean the alternator is fine. Ive got some vag com codes saved on laptop which is still in the car. I did a parasitic amperage test which shows a the light on when no systems are on. But after pulling every fuse the light does not tune off. Perhaps a bad relay? My stereo turned back on the heater works, headlights, wipers, signals heated seats, interior lights, everything works! Just no air ride because its not plugged in.

Should i plug it back in and see if the lights on dash come back on for the air? And see if perhaps it will pump the bags up to level 3 so that i can drive? Then remove the air moduale again and see if she drops down again?

it also seems that my clutch switch may be acting up. I have to really push down on the pedal to start the car. anyone ever experienced this b4?

Clutch switches are somewhat common to go bad in these cars. I always bypass mine, so if it's worth it for you for me to mail you one, I think mine is still in the car.

How much of a draw are you talking? Anything more than .02 or .03 is not normal. Also, how did you do the draw test?

[canadianA4B7]

Clutch switches are somewhat common to go bad in these cars. I always bypass mine, so if it's worth it for you for me to mail you one, I think mine is still in the car.

How much of a draw are you talking? Anything more than .02 or .03 is not normal. Also, how did you do the draw test?

1st bypass clutch simple jumper wire from 1 terminal to the other on this clutch switch? Simply over ridding the depression of the clutch when starting? Like the idea, not really a fan of its operation but if it works i could do it. Or send you a few bucks for yours! Ill see if i can just move some wires see if anything is loose. I number of attempts today failed to start the car. So thats 1 issue

2nd testing i used my multi meter to test amperage. Showed .024 amps. Which i believe is acceptable. This was with the air ride modules unplugged. I also tested using just a inline light which the light did NOT turn off while removing any of the fuses from the panel. So i assume the high tech led light tester will pick up any current, which it did and damn thats pretty awesome for sensitivity testing!

3rd i left the car for about 4 hours went to my night course, came home and cranked it over 1st time! Holy crap was i amazed!!!! So in the am i will see if shes still got enough juice to crank over again.

4th another members got a set of rear bags that he is not using. Hope to pay for them in the next week and install them asap. If that is a temp fix im cool with that for now. Anyone know what shocks will fit into them? Im assuming they have the oem shocks, but if im gonna install something id like to be sure it will last a bit longer.

Success! Left car over night went out this am car turned over with no complications! It lives!

[yellorado]

good to know you're getting somewhere!
as for shocks, arnott has some bilsteins that will fit on the back if you are looking to upgrade, a bit pricey, but not really much more expensive than new factory ones!

are the old ones shot? you dont really need to worry about them if the back end was still behaving normally.

[canadianA4B7]

Yes it still seems ok, it can be a bit wavy but i have read that can be due to the air bags themselves. So i guess what you are getting at is " if it aint broke dont fix!" I can ask the seller if he is including shocks with the bags maybe ill get super lucky and the set hes got has less then 310,000kms!

[canadianA4B7]

So after leaving the car an extra long time, starts up rough, and throws abs code for the g201 i believe thats a common problem aswell? Anyone suggest a place to buy one of these from? This code has showed up a few times now but clears via vag com and doesnt return for a good amount of time. Whats the deal with this module?

[chris@fifteen52]

You can always get some STs and the oem piece to convert to static.