Tips on head gasket job or diy please!

[blingaling]

So after the weather got warm enough and cleared up from rain i was able to check why my car was smoking heavily form the exhaust. So i checked the dip stick and oil fill cap both has signs of milky oil on them along with my coolant res down to a quarter left and the smoke was white. Pcv system is good from what i can tell and the turbo is fine boosts normally without any studdering or issues. So im looking for a diy if there is one(i searched) or some tips on how to do it, mainly what tools i'll need. Also should i upgrade my head studs? And should i just do the fluidampr while im there(havnt purchesed)?

[kloeb2]

The only special tool that I recall needing was a polydrive head bolt tool. ECS has them. Then just the usual triple square, torx, regular sockets etc. should be enough.

Have you thought about doing rods while you have the head off. You'll still have to drop the pan and pump/balance shaft assembly but it's worth it if you are getting the f23.

I don't think head studs are necessary. I used new oem ones and i'm running a slightly larger turbo than the f23.

[mec]

So after the weather got warm enough and cleared up from rain i was able to check why my car was smoking heavily form the exhaust. So i checked the dip stick and oil fill cap both has signs of milky oil on them along with my coolant res down to a quarter left and the smoke was white. Pcv system is good from what i can tell and the turbo is fine boosts normally without any studdering or issues. So im looking for a diy if there is one(i searched) or some tips on how to do it, mainly what tools i'll need. Also should i upgrade my head studs? And should i just do the fluidampr while im there(havnt purchesed)?

compression test to be certain. Could also be the oil cooler, or contaminants in the oil.

Best advice is get the car in service position, slide out the front. Drain coolant. Remove timing belt, remove intake manfiold, remove exhaust manifold and downpipe, disconnect the rear coolant flange. Open up head and unbolt the head!

[mec]

Don't do head studs, OEM is good up to 1,000,000hp

[blingaling]

The only special tool that I recall needing was a polydrive head bolt tool. ECS has them. Then just the usual triple square, torx, regular sockets etc. should be enough.

Have you thought about doing rods while you have the head off. You'll still have to drop the pan and pump/balance shaft assembly but it's worth it if you are getting the f23.

I don't think head studs are necessary. I used new oem ones and i'm running a slightly larger turbo than the f23.
Ive thought about doing the rods but i dont have an engine hoist and dont you have to pull the engine for that? Id like to do rods and s3's while im in there just so i can push the beta testing on that f23 further on our platform but never done anything that in depth(makes me nervous lol) all mods done so far were all simple bolt ons lol

[blingaling]

Don't do head studs, OEM is good up to 1,000,000hp

So truthfully the only thing weak on our motors is the rods and shitty pcv system? I just figured upgrade studs for safety measure?

[mec]

you can do rods without pulling the engine. its just not very much fun. leave the block in, remove balance shaft and push rods out the top of the block. I've pulled the engine before without a hoist, it only weighs like 200lbs, get a friend to help you pull it, each one of you grab a motor mount bracket and pull it off and onto the floor

[blingaling]

So how long would a normal(not me lol) back yard mechanic be able to do the full rods, timing belt, head gasket, new turbo and while im at it s3 injectors in? Basically double the time for me lol

[blingaling]

compression test to be certain. Could also be the oil cooler, or contaminants in the oil.

Best advice is get the car in service position, slide out the front. Drain coolant. Remove timing belt, remove intake manfiold, remove exhaust manifold and downpipe, disconnect the rear coolant flange. Open up head and unbolt the head!

I'll try the compression teat 1st before buying anything but what are the usual readings i should see? I know they should be consistant through cyl 1-4

[blingaling]

Also was wondering what could cause such premature wear? Im only at 62k on the motor and running a base stage 2 tune from maestro.

[mec]

I'll try the compression teat 1st before buying anything but what are the usual readings i should see? I know they should be consistant through cyl 1-4

Think most guys are seeing between 175-200psi

[mec]

Also was wondering what could cause such premature wear? Im only at 62k on the motor and running a base stage 2 tune from maestro.

Doesn't really make sense, you would have bad idle, running rough, etc many other symptoms.

[mec]

So how long would a normal(not me lol) back yard mechanic be able to do the full rods, timing belt, head gasket, new turbo and while im at it s3 injectors in? Basically double the time for me lol

if you spend 8 hours a day on the engine, you can pull the entire engine in 4 hours assuming you go slow, disassembly will take oyu another two hours, and then you have two hours left the first day to install the rods and real the bottom end. Then spend the next 8 hours putting the head back on, and installing it back in the car. I would say you could easily do it in 16 hours.

[blingaling]

Doesn't really make sense, you would have bad idle, running rough, etc many other symptoms.

I never had a rough idle or rough starting or any issues. It always pulled solid no misfires and never had overheating issues. And i deff dont wanna go through all this just to yet again have another head gasket go.

[mec]

I never had a rough idle or rough starting or any issues. It always pulled solid no misfires and never had overheating issues. And i deff dont wanna go through all this just to yet again have another head gasket go.

Chances are that it may be something else, have you overheated the engine ever? Could be a cracked CHRA as well.

[blingaling]

Nope never overheated before, only issue i ever had with operating temps was when my thermostat went last winter and it wasnt hitting op temp but that was fixed after a week

[blingaling]

I have a feeling somehow i cracked the head and its not the gasket. Just because of my awesome luck lol

[blingaling]

So going to go to a local mechanic to get a leak down test done before jumping into a head gasket job or anything else. But is it possible i bent a rod enough that the cylinder got scored enough or cracked enough to cause my issues? That was brought up as a possibility to me. Any opinions on that?