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vegaspassat
10-02-2013, 03:10 PM
I've been wanting to do a 2.7t swap into my passat for about 8 years. Really ever since I bought the car back in '04. Unfortunately there is no such thing as an original idea, and this swap has been gaining popularity, so my idea isn't so novel anymore. I finally got the money and purchased a complete engine and tragedy struck. Some lady cut across an intersection and we collided, thus totalling my car

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/part%20out/CIMG0073.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/derek_lacy/media/part%20out/CIMG0073.jpg.html)

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/part%20out/CIMG0074.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/derek_lacy/media/part%20out/CIMG0074.jpg.html)

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/part%20out/CIMG0076.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/derek_lacy/media/part%20out/CIMG0076.jpg.html)

So here I was stuck with an engine that I paid a lot of money for, and no car to put it in. I tried looking for an S4 that needed an engine, but to no avail. Come to find out, finding a 2000 passat with a v6 and a manual transmission (for around 1k) is nearly impossible as well.

I finally found another passat. Albeit, not a perfect candidate, but a decent one. A 2003 v6 manual with a bad engine and decent paint, except for the roof.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20130630_210605_zps40cffb03.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/derek_lacy/media/20130630_210605_zps40cffb03.jpg.html)

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/FB_IMG_13730855775944205_zps3b404fd7.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/derek_lacy/media/FB_IMG_13730855775944205_zps3b404fd7.jpg.html)

Thus begins the process of taking out the old engine

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20130826_192234_zpsd3c466c5.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/derek_lacy/media/20130826_192234_zpsd3c466c5.jpg.html)

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20130827_210715_zps7081de13.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/derek_lacy/media/20130827_210715_zps7081de13.jpg.html)

Once I got the 2.8 out I discovered that the passat doesn't use a spacer between the transmission and the block like the S4 does. I was unsure if it was needed so I asked a few people that have already done the swap with mixed answers. I finally picked up a dial caliper and measured the thickness of the clutchmasers fx400 and SMFW on the 2.7 and compared it to the stock 2.8. Of course, the clutch and flywheel on the 2.7 are significantly thicker, so I am waiting on a spacer.

In the mean time I went ahead and bought some mounts from 034. If you have done engine mounts on a 2.8 or a 2.7 before, you know they can be a pain. Especially on the 2.7 because there are turbos and inlets in the way. So I bought the motorsport mounts (at the recommendation of 034) that 034 makes in house.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20130913_185926_zpsdb725d8a.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/derek_lacy/media/20130913_185926_zpsdb725d8a.jpg.html)

I started looking at the 2.7 and to my dismay, it looks as though a few of the wires are damaged on the driver's side harness. If these wires are not clipped securely in place they will fall near the turbo and melt. So now I have to repair the O2 sensor harness, coolant level sensor harness, and a third one that i have no idea what it goes to.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20130906_183821_zps2cb662d6.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/derek_lacy/media/20130906_183821_zps2cb662d6.jpg.html)

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20130906_183725_zpsb711277f.jpg (http://s184.photobucket.com/user/derek_lacy/media/20130906_183725_zpsb711277f.jpg.html)

While I was checking out the harness I noticed that the power steering line coming off the 2.7 has a female end on it, and the line on the passat ALSO has a female end on it. I was able to take the line to house of hose next to Wolf's shop, and they sold me an adapter to mate these two lines together.

So as of right now I'm at a sale mate, waiting on the transmission spacer. I have a friend replacing the flex pipe on my gutted S4 down pipes and I'll be buying a cat back exhaust from a guy in california. I could use the stock passat exhaust, but I'd rather get something that flows better.

The only other issue I can see coming up is that the SMICs for the 2.7 might not fit, due to the a/c drier and the washer bottle. I will cross that road when i get to it, and I may just say "eff it" and put in a JHM FMIC. I've only got a stg1 tune on the ECU, but I want to make sure the intake and exhaust are as free flowing as possible so that I can get as much life out of these k03s as possible. Once I get everything installed and running, if I feel like I need more power I'll run down to blacksheep and have them install a jfonz tune.

That's it for now, I'll update you guys when I start getting in more parts!

vegaspassat
10-02-2013, 03:11 PM
Here is my new exhaust. Im hoping it wont be too long and that the lack of down turns on the end wont be an issue. It is an SSAC that I bought from another audizine member.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/29/a4upyryp.jpg

And here are my piggy pipes with new flex pipe installed. The new flex pipe added about an inch to their overall length, so again - hoping the system isnt too long
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/29/ruzujusu.jpg

udcc11
10-02-2013, 04:15 PM
So FWD 2.7T?

vegaspassat
10-02-2013, 04:25 PM
Yeah. I'm not going crazy on HP so i dont see it being a problem.

Does anyone have any advice on the O2 harness being melted? I did some searching and couldnt find a clear concensus on the best way to repair it

aysix
10-02-2013, 04:27 PM
Fuck you thats my dream build.

Also, i'm moving to vegas.

So there will be 2 2.7T passats rolling around

Blue AWD
10-02-2013, 04:52 PM
That last wire with the o-ring is a engine ground to the firewall.

vegaspassat
10-02-2013, 06:01 PM
Right. But there is a single wire with no connector on it at all.

vegaspassat
10-02-2013, 06:03 PM
Fuck you thats my dream build.

Also, i'm moving to vegas.

So there will be 2 2.7T passats rolling around

Are you really moving to vegas? Im glad to see that i havent been engulfed by the "why you no put bi-turbo in AWD?!" flames yet.

S4 00 2.7
10-02-2013, 06:26 PM
Good to see your build on here, Derek. [up]

Alex

Dr.d
10-02-2013, 06:34 PM
Good to see your build on here, Derek. [up]

Alex

Is that your old ssac exhaust?

vegaspassat
10-02-2013, 06:40 PM
Is that your old ssac exhaust?

yep.

Thanks again for meeting me in Barstow Alex!

udcc11
10-02-2013, 06:40 PM
Are you really moving to vegas? Im glad to see that i havent been engulfed by the "why you no put bi-turbo in AWD?!" flames yet.

As much as I want to I'll refrain [:D] Curious to see how it turns out.

vegaspassat
10-02-2013, 06:46 PM
Nah, go for it. I've had 8 years to come up with a series of perfect responses

S4 00 2.7
10-02-2013, 06:48 PM
Is that your old ssac exhaust?

Yes. And I can already see it went to a good home.

Oh, and I think you will have to just go with FMIC on the passat.

Good luck with the project!

MileMan402
10-02-2013, 07:55 PM
Cool build, good luck. Also, FYI, I'm pretty sure the 034 snub is too small for the stock cage, if you didn't get the 034 cage..

vegaspassat
10-02-2013, 08:07 PM
Hmm... i had the 034 snub on my first passat and it seemed fine, but they made a few things different with the facelift models. Ill check it when i get home. Thank you for the advice!

MileMan402
10-02-2013, 08:09 PM
I ordered just the snub for my S4 and it left a lot of gaps in the cage, so unless they sent me the wrong one. But I just went and bought an Apikol one and it works great.

vegaspassat
10-02-2013, 08:24 PM
Correct me if Im wrong, but there should be SOME gap right?

MileMan402
10-02-2013, 08:28 PM
a little I think, but it was noticeably more gap than with the stock or other aftermarket snub mounts

Dr.d
10-02-2013, 08:45 PM
Yes. And I can already see it went to a good home.

Oh, and I think you will have to just go with FMIC on the passat.

Good luck with the project!

Nice! It makes me feel a little better about spending full price to see it on a sick project.

And hey OP, if you want to try to fit stock smics I will hook you up w mine just pay shipping.

onequickyellows
10-02-2013, 08:52 PM
good luck w. the build man!

vegaspassat
10-02-2013, 08:56 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/03/ygurytus.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/03/a9esaju5.jpg

Doesnt seem excrssive to me. Maybe im wrong?

k_harley
10-02-2013, 09:11 PM
I had a similar issue, I could not adjust my snub receiver down far enough to make it within an acceptable range.

SOOOOOO..........

What I did was took a piece of 1 x 1/8 flat stock and welded that into the receiver, at the top, to make it essentially smaller.

So far, so good!

vegaspassat
10-02-2013, 10:02 PM
And hey OP, if you want to try to fit stock smics I will hook you up w mine just pay shipping.

Thanks Doc, but i already have a set of OE intercoolers. I dont have the mounting brackets though

Caffeinated
10-03-2013, 09:58 AM
Doesnt seem excrssive to me. Maybe im wrong?

To get the full benefit of the upgraded snub mount, you need the cage. As you can see, there is still plenty of slop around the upgraded mount. The combination of a tight cage and the upgraded mount will really help with on/off throttle drivetrain lash.

aysix
10-03-2013, 10:17 AM
Thanks Doc, but i already have a set of OE intercoolers. I dont have the mounting brackets though

Perhaps snag a set from SRM since they are made in your home town.

vegaspassat
10-03-2013, 01:26 PM
Ugh, it looks as though I'm going t have to change horses midstream. My garage is just too small to do all of this work in so Im going to have the car towed to my girlfriend's house. I'm supposed to be moving in with her this month anyway so I guess its not THAT big of a deal. Just a pain in the ass thats all.

I was looking at the power steering line yesterday and the adapter I bought wont work because the line coming off the pump is bent at a 90 degree and so is the line going to the rack. So i went back to the hose shop and had them fab a small flexible hose. It will be pretty jerry rigged but I anticipate it will work. The reason I did this is because I dont know if the passat and s4 racks are the same, therefore I dont know if I can just buy an s4 line. And they arent very cheap either.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/04/ty7a9ene.jpg

AudiA4_20T
10-03-2013, 01:37 PM
cool swap. Wiring should be plug and play which is cool

vegaspassat
10-03-2013, 03:39 PM
cool swap. Wiring should be plug and play which is cool

Thanks!

Got the car towed to the new garage

Tow truck picking up the car

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/04/putu4ymy.jpg

Safely tucked away in its new home

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/04/eja5a9yj.jpg

Caffeinated
10-03-2013, 03:48 PM
I've always wondered what the exact nuances are between the 1.8T vs. S4 racks, the ZF vs. Koyo racks, and the B5/B5.5 Passat vs. B5 A4/S4.

Visually speaking they are incredibly similar and both can be made to work, but there has to be some difference considering the vast amount of part numbers associated with them.

6speeds
10-03-2013, 05:20 PM
Nice project, i used to have a B5 Passat and always dreamt of this project. I'm sure you're already aware, but passatworld has a bunch of great resources. Good luck!

vegaspassat
10-03-2013, 05:32 PM
Yeah, Im not such a big fan of passat world to be truthful with you. There is a lot more usefull info here. Speaking of which - any recommendations on how to repair my O2 harness?

somebody5788
10-03-2013, 07:01 PM
Yeah. I'm not going crazy on HP so i dont see it being a problem.

Does anyone have any advice on the O2 harness being melted? I did some searching and couldnt find a clear concensus on the best way to repair it

A conservative tune 2.7t is going to spin 3rd gear to the limiter and all 5 in the rain.

s4cappa
10-03-2013, 07:06 PM
there is a fwd k04d passat in RI and it gets horrible traction but it is cool and fast.

vegaspassat
10-04-2013, 12:28 AM
A conservative tune 2.7t is going to spin 3rd gear to the limiter and all 5 in the rain.

Sounds like a good time to me!

vegaspassat
10-04-2013, 12:30 AM
there is a fwd k04d passat in RI and it gets horrible traction but it is cool and fast.

Might be a little cliche, but do you know his FATS? And does he have a build thread on passat world? Ive talked to a few other guys on PW from back east and I *might* have talked to him before

vegaspassat
10-04-2013, 08:10 PM
there is a fwd k04d passat in RI and it gets horrible traction but it is cool and fast.

Do you mean nebone?

vegaspassat
10-13-2013, 09:19 PM
Sorry for the lack of updates guys. I got my trans spacer the other week but now i am in the process of moving. I finally got both of my engines over to the new house, but no tool box yet. I'll be moving that on wednesday.


Lots more room to work with :D

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/14/anaqyde7.jpg

I picked up some smic brackets from another 'ziner here in vegas (thanks dan!). I was looking at the passat and on the drivers side it looks like there are actually rivet holes for the bracket. Although, they look like they might need to be drilled a little bigger. Im wondering if this is to accomodate the smic for the 1.8t passats.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/14/esumemy5.jpg

The washer bottle is definitely in the way though. Looking at the other side it doesnt appear that there are rivet holes, but they could be underneath the accumulator bracket.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/14/apugytu5.jpg

This makes a stronger case that the rivet points on the drivers side are for the 1.8t smic. But it begs the question as to whether or not the 1.8t has a different washer bottle.

Just thinking out loud i guess. Because at this point im 98% positive im going to go with a slim garret fmic with apr bi-pipes another 'ziner has for sale.


But yeah, im really looking forward to working in this new garage with so much room. Just gotta get all my tools over here. Stay tuned...

udcc11
10-14-2013, 04:15 AM
It does not according to ECS. They have the same part number.

V6
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Passat_B5-FWD-V6_30v/Search/SiteSearch/Washer_Reservoir/ES340037/

1.8T
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Passat_B5-FWD-1.8T/Search/SiteSearch/Washer_Reservoir/ES340037/

vegaspassat
10-30-2013, 11:16 PM
Been stupid busy lately, but managed to have a friend come by and solder some connections on the engine harness for me. We had to salvage some connectors off the 2.8. The fmic that i bought came in the other day and i wasnt very happy with it so i sent it back. Hopefully the guy will split shipping with me since his ad was misleading and didnt accurately describe it. Other than that i havent made any progress, other than finding a black widow under the intake manifold. Scared the hell out of me.

S4 00 2.7
10-31-2013, 12:02 AM
I am definitely checking this thread for updates. Keep us posted.

vegaspassat
10-31-2013, 02:06 AM
Thanks!

vegaspassat
01-07-2014, 09:36 PM
Alright guys. With my moms cancer, the weather turning cold a few months ago, my panama work schedule, and excitement bubble deflated after I lost 130 bucks on a garbage fmic, I have a very small update.

I was looking over the car and noticed that there are two vacuum lines that are routed to the engine of the passat.

I assumed that this thick one went to the vacuum reservoir like it would on an S4, especially since there is a vacuum line on the 2.7t in the same general area that is about the same size. And it runs into the fender well, where the reservoir is.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/08/9aru5yra.jpg

But then there is this ******. It is a vacuum line on the 2.8 and it ALSO runs into the fender well.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/08/supa6epy.jpg

After much searching of the interwebs I found vacuum diagrams of the 2.7t and of course there is nothing comparable. It seems that it is an extra line that I had no idea where it went to because all of the 2.8 vacuum diagrams I looked at didn't clearly state where the line ran to.

So I took out the inner fender well and found that the smaller of the lines is actually the one that goes to the reservoir :screwy:

I traced the larger one to the edge of the fender well and it runs underneath the car. From what I found on the google musheen and the vacuum diagrams, this is the line that runs to the rear of the car to the vacuum leak detection pump/charcoal canister assembly.

I plan on splicing them together at this juntion in the fender well.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/08/anuta7ap.jpg

The black plastic thing in the top right is the reservoir, FYI.

Also, since I am kind of doing this in the spirit of a DIY, (and since the other swap threads Ive found arent very descriptive) the charcoal box has an outlet line that runs to passenger side of both engines controlled by an electronically operated valve. On the passat the valve is located on the air box, but on the S4 the charcoal box outlet line runs parallel with the fuel lines over the intake to the valve on the intake manifold.

aysix
01-07-2014, 09:38 PM
I'm in vegas. Let me know if you need help with anything. Actually, let me do something. You won't be the only 2.7 swapped passat in vegas. Fun build!

vegaspassat
01-07-2014, 09:41 PM
Oh, you finally made the move!? Awesome! What part of town are you in? I meet up with some vw/audi peeps in the NW for coffee on friday morning if you want to come out. PM me for info

vegaspassat
03-21-2014, 12:00 AM
Man, talk about losing steam on a project!!! UGH! I've been dealing with a LOT of stuff personally lately - with the draw down of the Air Force and my mother's passing 3 weeks ago just to put the icing on the cake. On top of that, I picked up a motorcycle a few weeks back and it has diverted my attentionz away from this project. I did get just a little bit of stuff done in the past month though...


I got a tip from Sniped43 on vortex that the reverse sensor connector on the S4 harness is different than the sensor used on the passat. So the other night I swapped out the plug. I don't have any fancy schmancy connector tools so I used one I made. I am sure that a sewing needle or a safety pin would do the same job. It just has to depress the tang on the inside of the plug where the connector locks into the plastic.

Here you can see the two connectors that run from the engine to the transmission. Both run to the driver's side near output flange. This was after I had already removed the connectors from the plug.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20140219_214942_zpsc0a0a78f.jpg

Here is the plug in question, after I placed the boot on the loom and inserted the connectors into the plastic plug

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20140219_215231_zpsa55fde7a.jpg

and here is the plug I removed, compared to the one I had to put on to mate with the passat tranny

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20140219_215323_zpsd58072a2.jpg

one of the two wires going to this plug was the same harness to harness, but the other wire was different. I correlated the one that matched, hoping that it is the appropriate pin location for it. Even if it isn't correct, I'm sure it won't be a problem since it is most likely a binary switch and it won't matter which side is ground.



Tonight I also managed to remove the stock passat down pipes. With a little WD-40, they separated from the exhaust with ease. Because I already have the car on dolly's as seen here:

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20140320_215953_zps9e18de4d.jpg

the back end of the car is elevated about 2 inches. All I had to do was lift the right front of the car with my floor jack, and then I could cork screw the stock down pipes out of the car. I should also say, that in order to get the down pipes out, I had to let the transmission sag by its mounts to make an opening big enough for the pre-cats.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20140320_220011_zpsaddc6132.jpg

It looks like getting the rest of the exhaust out is going to be a pain without the aid of either a torch or a lift. There just isn't enough room with my floor jack to weasel the rest of it out.





I'm sorry again for the lack of updates guys. I am really hoping to have this done in time for Wuste, even if I don't plan on going. My girl and I are looking to buy a house soon, so I really need to put the hammer down and get this damn thing done.

BoostNinja
03-21-2014, 01:55 AM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/03/ygurytus.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/03/a9esaju5.jpg

Doesnt seem excrssive to me. Maybe im wrong?

Call 034 and get the cage for the Snob.. Thats a lot of gap!! its only 30 or so..

vegaspassat
03-21-2014, 08:39 AM
Most likely will, especially since the bumper is out and it is so easy to get to

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Tec_Nine
03-21-2014, 08:42 AM
cool build, I'll be sure to follow the thread for updates

hibiscusS4
03-21-2014, 08:47 AM
look pretty cool in for updates

S4 00 2.7
03-21-2014, 05:03 PM
Sorry to hear about your mom. Don't stop the updates coming but we understand things come up.

vegaspassat
03-26-2014, 04:03 AM
I got the stock exhaust out of the passat the other night and sadly I don't think the SSAC exhaust I bought will work :( Oddly enough though, the two are nearly identical in length and it appears that most (if not all) of the hanger points match up too.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20140323_193107_zpsygksu07a.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20140323_193102_zpsew90fmhk.jpg

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20140323_193051_zpsutdg0pvx.jpg




There is a bend in the stock exhaust where it goes up and over the rear beam that isn't on the SSAC exhaust though, and this is why it won't work. Here is the bend I'm talking about compared to the SSAC. It makes sense and I should have thought about it a little more. The bend doesn't exist on the SSAC because the rear beam doesn't exist on an S4. On a passat, the rear beams pivot point sits about a foot forward of where the axles are on a 4-motion/quattro car.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20140323_193157_zpsmiabkcry.jpg




You'll notice in that picture that I had to cut the stock exhaust to get it out. There was not enough room for the rear muffler to squeeze between the chassis and the rear beam

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20140323_193301_zpsz9bcvxhi.jpg


For the other DIYers out there, I measured the stock passat exhaust compared to the S4 down pipes.
Passat:


http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20140323_193619_zps3mqtgt2p.jpg




S4:



http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x244/derek_lacy/20140323_193538_zpso6gevzd5.jpg



As you can see, the 2.7 exhaust is only slightly larger than the passat's. I'm sure that if you were doing a budget build, you could use the exhaust from the passat and S4 down pipes, as long as the coupler you used to mate the two sections was also some sort of a reducer. And they wouldn't match right up either, there would be some cutting needed and an added section. Would I recommend that? Absolutely not. The stock S4 exhaust is well known to be restrictive (re: turbo killer) already. Putting the stock passat exhaust behind the k03's would hinder performance, since it is even more restrictive. BUT - it could be done. If one were to do it I would recommend cutting out the suitcase muffler, which is a common mod for passat owners anyway. As a side note, that damn thing has to weigh like 40 pounds.

AudiA4_20T
03-28-2014, 10:22 AM
could have grabbed a 4motion exhaust

demonmk2
03-28-2014, 10:28 AM
Cool build.
I have a friend who actually had a 00 1.8t Passat wagon fwd.
Put a 2.7t/6sp/4motion rear subframe swap in
Car ran great and surprised the shit out of a lot of people.
It had stage 2+ and front mount intercooler and center diff mod.

audiB7t
03-28-2014, 10:36 AM
very nice dude, glad to see the car coming together nicely, makes me want to start a build thread over here about my 04 W8 tip 4-motion passat getting a 2.7t 01e swap

vegaspassat
03-28-2014, 09:49 PM
could have grabbed a 4motion exhaust

As I recall though, the 4 motion exhaust exits on both the right and left side of the car. I dont think the fwd gas tank will accomodate. And the 4motion exhaust wouldnt clear the beam the same way the SSAC doesnt. Be advised: I could be mistaken

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

vegaspassat
03-28-2014, 09:50 PM
very nice dude, glad to see the car coming together nicely, makes me want to start a build thread over here about my 04 W8 tip 4-motion passat getting a 2.7t 01e swap

Man I would LOVE to see that build! Did you do the work yourself?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

S4 00 2.7
03-28-2014, 10:50 PM
Have a shop delete the mid muffler and connect going over the beam. [up]

audiB7t
03-29-2014, 07:11 PM
Man I would LOVE to see that build! Did you do the work yourself?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Ya I did it all, it's been a long project just waiting on the driveshaft to complete it. And I think we talked on passatworld about the 2.7t project I'm vwb5t over there

vegaspassat
03-29-2014, 10:49 PM
Ohhh ok yeah I remember now

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vegaspassat
03-29-2014, 10:50 PM
Have a shop delete the mid muffler and connect going over the beam. [up]

Thats kind of what i was thinking. I figure a few feet of SS and some welding shouldnt cost too much

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fireupthequatro
03-31-2014, 04:22 PM
Sorry if this has been covered but I'm reading so
Many posts at the moment everything just blends together :)
What year is your passat
And what year is the 2.7 engine?
Have you got any wiring issues?
I'm currently in the middle of a similar swap on my 1996 a4 2.8
And I'm swapping in a 2000 2.7 engine
So ANYONE that can help
Me please feel free to jump in!!
Thanks

vegaspassat
03-31-2014, 05:58 PM
It is a 2003 passat with a 2000 S4 engine going in (Shhhhh - don't tell the EPA). The only wiring issues that I have come across thus far is the reverse harness plug that I hilighted in post #46. I don't know much about the 96 A4, but if it is drive by cable (DBC) then you will have to wire in a drive by wire (DBW) circuit. I'm like 99.9999999% positive your car is DBC. There is a guy somewhere on the interwebs (here/vwvortex/passatworld) that had to do a DBW conversion with his passat 2.7T. When I asked him about it he said it was a huge pain, and that he wouldn't do it again. He said if he were to do it again he would just start with a DBW car since it is mostly plug and play. I hope that helps.

vegaspassat
04-13-2014, 09:35 PM
I went ahead and did the f-hose delete the other day. I just got a length of pcv hose and a 3/8 inch nipple cap from oriely's.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/8egupeha.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/14/vy5a8usa.jpg

The nipple cap is a very snug fit, so I don't think I'll need to put a hose clamp. I'm hoping the pcv hose won't collapse when it heats up. If it does I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

I also got the s4 high pressure line installed on the rack. Fits like it's supposed to be there :)

Still working on the vacuum reservoir lines. I think I'm going to just have to get them figured out once I have the engine in the car. Which by looking at it should be pretty soon.

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entropy_s4
04-14-2014, 04:29 PM
If you decide u would rather buy a better fitting exhaust my s4 could definately use that ssac ;)

entropy_s4
04-14-2014, 04:30 PM
Good luck on the build also!! I miss not having traction in 3rd :/

vegaspassat
04-15-2014, 11:24 AM
Thanx! Did you have a 2.7 passat too or something?

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155VERT83
04-16-2014, 05:14 AM
This thread is full of awesomeness. [hail]
Subscribed.

vegaspassat
04-16-2014, 11:36 AM
So I have some good news and some more good news! I just put a deposit on a house yesterday! So that means that I need to get my ass in gear, stop dragging my feet, and get this car running. Hopefully within a month this project will be road worthy enough to drive to the new house.

Melo
04-16-2014, 11:43 AM
So I have some good news and some more good news! I just put a deposit on a house yesterday! So that means that I need to get my ass in gear, stop dragging my feet, and get this car running. Hopefully within a month this project will be road worthy enough to drive to the new house.

Congrats on the house. Now stop slacking and finish this beast [:p] I'll be in Vegas this June and would love to see it in person!

vegaspassat
04-16-2014, 03:26 PM
Thanks! This is my first time buying a house. Are you coming for Wuste?

vegaspassat
04-16-2014, 03:59 PM
By the way, does anyone have a JHM FMIC that they would like to part ways with? I haven't seen one in the ad section in quite some time. There is another brand of FMIC for sale, but I've never heard of them.

audiB7t
04-16-2014, 05:11 PM
By the way, does anyone have a JHM FMIC that they would like to part ways with? I haven't seen one in the ad section in quite some time. There is another brand of FMIC for sale, but I've never heard of them.

i have the JHM FMIC kit that i installed on my B5 passat when i had the 2.7t in it, i had issues with the putting it on my B55 but that was due to it being a w8 car originally, the core support and w8 specific items make it harder so i switched to stock SMIC's for now.


shoot me a PM if you wanna it.

vegaspassat
04-16-2014, 07:58 PM
Pm sent

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Melo
04-17-2014, 12:03 PM
Thanks! This is my first time buying a house. Are you coming for Wuste?

No not for that, I got to scratch the poker/craps itch I'm having [>_<]

vegaspassat
04-17-2014, 03:20 PM
Gotcha. Make sure to stop in at Aria and tip your dealer well cuz my girlfriend works there ;) If you want cheap craps go to Jokers Wild for dollar craps. It is a SHITTY hole in the wall casino though, so be warned.

vegaspassat
04-25-2014, 04:31 AM
Hey guys, not going to have any updates for a couple weeks. Taking a MUCH needed vacation with my girlfriend in Korea.


pic for audi content

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/25/u4eqe3eb.jpg


Hard to tell, but its an S8


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vegaspassat
05-11-2014, 07:47 AM
Anyone know what is supposed to go here? Its just behind the drivers side turbo inlet.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/11/ve3ahu7e.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/11/ebydu9uz.jpg

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UkuRiSh
05-11-2014, 08:23 AM
Anyone know what is supposed to go here? Its just behind the drivers side turbo inlet.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/11/ve3ahu7e.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/11/ebydu9uz.jpg

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This is crankshaft locking tool to secure the crankshaft in place.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_S4--2.7T/Engine/Timing/ES2608068/

vegaspassat
05-11-2014, 08:24 AM
Never mind. Found out it is the crank lock pin hole

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vegaspassat
05-11-2014, 08:26 AM
Lol you beat me to it. I'll have to take the cover off the old engine and put it on the new one. Im glad I noticed it when I was drilling the engine mounts last night!

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vegaspassat
05-15-2014, 01:33 AM
Got the engine in. I have never had a tranny stab so easily before. I got it mated the first time. No wiggling, no cussing, no broken plastic bits. I couldnt beleive it. It must have just been luck, but it felt great.


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/15/usybuva4.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/15/sypygy5u.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/15/yqage4uh.jpg

If you loosen the 6 lower motor mount bracket bolts, the subframe will sag and you have enough room to get the engine in with the mounts bolted to it.


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/15/nybu8a8e.jpg

Put a jack under the bell housing to level the tranny. Once the tranny is stabbed let the engine rest on the sagging sub frame. You should have enough room to get the top bell housing bolts in.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/15/a7a3atys.jpg


After that use the cherry picker to lift the engine so you can access the bottom bell housing bolts.


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/15/mujezute.jpg



Oh yeah, I was concerned about the thickness of the clutch masters throw put bearing compared to the stock one.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/15/asy5eren.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/15/zeta5a8y.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/15/upegu9ym.jpg


But after talking with aysix, he let me know that evetything would be fine.

I'm thinking I have a solid 8 hour day's worth of work until I can try to start it the first time.


In other news, Im a home owner now!! We move in on monday!!

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Royal769sr
05-15-2014, 06:21 AM
Dang man, Congratulations on multiple accounts! I live in Vegas too and depending on where you live or are going to live I was wondering if I can come check your passat out? I was going back and forth over a 2.7t or 4.2 swap and at first it seemed like it was more work to do a 2.7t until I realized that was only if you were going to be doing an 01e swap as well. So, that being said, I realized there was not much needed for me to change over to the 2.7t in my b5 avant qt, and after my neighbor in his b5 S4 with RS6 turbos leaves me like I was going backwards, I decided to go 2.7t. Good luck on the rest.

S4 00 2.7
05-15-2014, 08:42 AM
Great progress. [up]

pipe7284
05-15-2014, 10:22 AM
nice!!!

vegaspassat
05-15-2014, 06:36 PM
Shoot me a PM royal and we'll go for a beer.

In other news, progress will be exceptionally slow in the coming week. I cut the shit out of my hand at work.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/16/4ejeje2e.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/16/jezu6u8a.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/16/umu9a9u7.jpg

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oppositelock
05-17-2014, 02:17 PM
Don't try to catch a broken ceramic bowl as it's falling to the floor...

http://imgur.com/download/v3xB0n7

vegaspassat
05-17-2014, 08:14 PM
Yowza! At least yours is on the back of your hand. My goes on the edgenof my palm. SUPER sensitive area.

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zillarob
05-17-2014, 08:23 PM
Stay away from falling Mustang bumpers also!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ubhOF9f987E/U3gY2NHjqkI/AAAAAAAACBQ/J_o62rZELRM/s512/IMG_0166.JPG

Buddies hand shortly before I took him to the hospital.
Some Terminator shit, could see the tendons moving in there (not cut thankfully).

vegaspassat
05-17-2014, 08:54 PM
Wow, now THAT is bad

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Royal769sr
05-18-2014, 03:55 AM
Holy crap!! In other news, any progress with the passat? PM Sent

vegaspassat
05-18-2014, 02:56 PM
Hmm thats weird. Its not showing up. Im working on it today, you should stop by

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vegaspassat
05-19-2014, 06:14 PM
yesterday I got quite a bit of work done. Got all of the bell housing bolts in except for one that isn't long enough, got the crank position sensor or speed sensor or whatever it is on the bell housing mounted and pluged in, swapped out the alternator electrical plug because my roommate stepped on it and broke it, got the alternator/starter wires mounted to the chassis, removed the alternator to replace it and so I can try to get the starter in, and started on the driver's side down pipe. Is it absolutely necessary to remove the axle sheild to put in the down pipes? It's an awefully tight fit down there and super hard to get to the bolts...maybe you guys can impart some knowledge on me?

zillarob
05-19-2014, 09:39 PM
I think they go something like this

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8MLn-OMVfm0/U3rNwTqYbhI/AAAAAAAACBo/eR4SWJlMN0g/s720/IMG_1470.JPG

Replace the vicegrip head ones at the bottom with hex heads, easier to deal with.

vegaspassat
05-20-2014, 12:58 AM
The passat hex heads actually worked for the S4 vice grip heads. And the one with the funny asymetrical head is the one that is too short from the passat, but the S4 one wont work because there isnt an indentation on the passat tranny for the head to catch on. No biggie, Ill juat use a regular bolt.


But I was talking about the axle sheilds. Do they absolutely have to come off in order to mount the down pipes?

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pipe7284
05-20-2014, 03:28 PM
I never installed the two bottom ones...a fucking headache to remove them, many people dont actually put them back on to not be able to deal with them if they have to remove the engine again.

S4 00 2.7
05-20-2014, 04:01 PM
Yes, much easier to remove axle shields to get to the downpipes. Just leave two bolts on to make them easier to remove.

vegaspassat
05-20-2014, 04:38 PM
Yes, much easier to remove axle shields to get to the downpipes. Just leave two bolts on to make them easier to remove.

Thats actually a really good tip thanks!

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zillarob
05-20-2014, 07:57 PM
Ya, dont put that top center cocksucker back in if yours have 3 bolts.

vegaspassat
05-21-2014, 12:25 AM
They do indeed. They dont rattle without that top bolt?

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a4turbo_2002
05-21-2014, 07:27 AM
Alright guys. With my moms cancer, the weather turning cold a few months ago, my panama work schedule, and excitement bubble deflated after I lost 130 bucks on a garbage fmic, I have a very small update.

I was looking over the car and noticed that there are two vacuum lines that are routed to the engine of the passat.

I assumed that this thick one went to the vacuum reservoir like it would on an S4, especially since there is a vacuum line on the 2.7t in the same general area that is about the same size. And it runs into the fender well, where the reservoir is.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/08/9aru5yra.jpg

But then there is this ******. It is a vacuum line on the 2.8 and it ALSO runs into the fender well.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/08/supa6epy.jpg

After much searching of the interwebs I found vacuum diagrams of the 2.7t and of course there is nothing comparable. It seems that it is an extra line that I had no idea where it went to because all of the 2.8 vacuum diagrams I looked at didn't clearly state where the line ran to.

So I took out the inner fender well and found that the smaller of the lines is actually the one that goes to the reservoir :screwy:

I traced the larger one to the edge of the fender well and it runs underneath the car. From what I found on the google musheen and the vacuum diagrams, this is the line that runs to the rear of the car to the vacuum leak detection pump/charcoal canister assembly.

I plan on splicing them together at this juntion in the fender well.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/08/anuta7ap.jpg

The black plastic thing in the top right is the reservoir, FYI.

Also, since I am kind of doing this in the spirit of a DIY, (and since the other swap threads Ive found arent very descriptive) the charcoal box has an outlet line that runs to passenger side of both engines controlled by an electronically operated valve. On the passat the valve is located on the air box, but on the S4 the charcoal box outlet line runs parallel with the fuel lines over the intake to the valve on the intake manifold.

Evap. Delete it if it causes too much pita and have jfonz code it out, mines been coded out for awhile and its fine.. bay is cleaner too. Cap off your n80

S4 00 2.7
05-21-2014, 08:55 AM
They do indeed. They dont rattle without that top bolt?

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They do not.

vegaspassat
05-21-2014, 02:35 PM
Kickass

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vegaspassat
05-21-2014, 06:05 PM
Evap. Delete it if it causes too much pita and have jfonz code it out, mines been coded out for awhile and its fine.. bay is cleaner too. Cap off your n80

Yeah I figured out where all those lines go. I thought I mentioned it in my post. I'm trying to keep everything as stock as possible....for now.

vegaspassat
05-24-2014, 12:27 AM
Damn, engine has to come back out. I snapped one of the turbo studs :(

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/24/gyjysyga.jpg



This really couldnt have come at a worse time. I have to be out of the garage in a week, and my garage at my new house is full of stuff from moving in.

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vegaspassat
05-24-2014, 12:50 AM
Hmm and i just noticed that the guy i bought my engine from sent me the wrong heater core hoses. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/24/4ygutuvy.jpg


Well... i should say one of them is wrong anyway.

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zillarob
05-24-2014, 07:20 AM
They look like the pside core/dside motor.

vegaspassat
05-24-2014, 09:18 AM
They are

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Royal769sr
05-26-2014, 04:01 AM
Dang man that sucks. You were super close.

vegaspassat
05-26-2014, 09:36 AM
I'll post pics soon. Engine is already back in the car. Hoping to start it up today. Im just on a time crunch so I dont have time to post

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vegaspassat
05-27-2014, 04:33 PM
So, more fun!! I almost got it to the point where I could try starting it last night, but alas - the engine I bought has been converted to a Hitachi MAF, but I have an A-box and a bosch MAF. I'll post pics tonight, I promise.

zillarob
05-27-2014, 04:36 PM
It will be fine to leave it unplugged for a test.
Prob run fine.

vegaspassat
05-28-2014, 11:11 AM
My internet is being screwy at the new house, so I'm sorry for the lack of pictures guys. So, to re-cap the past week:

1) I broke off a stud in the driver's side turbo so I had to pull the engine back out and remove the studs. I was able to replace two of them, but the audi dealership only had two studs in stock. I used bolts for the other two.

2) I got the engine back in, and it was NOT as easy as the first time. It took me like 2 hours to get it all lined up right.

3) By allowing the engine to sag with the sub frame, it was SUPER easy to put on the down pipes and the O2 sensors. DIY tip - the bottom and outtermost nuts on the down pipes are easy to access from the wheel well with the tire off and the axle heat sheilds removed. The top and innermost nuts can easily be accessed from the top, reaching behind the engine. Also - you MUST install the driver's side heater core hose BEFORE you stab the tranny. The bell housing does not allow for the connector to be pressed on after the tranny and engine have been mated. Leave the passenger side out though, that way you have room to work.

4) Plugged all of the sensors in and snapped them into their homes on the firewall. Installed the ECU.

5) Tried swinging the a/c compressor back around to install it on the engine, but the compressor lines are interfering with the turbo inlet :banghead: So I had to discharge the a/c system. As of right now I have NO Idea what I'm going to do to remedy this.

6) Figured out that my MAF is wrong, so I gave up and had the car towed to the new house. I was really hoping to drive it over there, but I just didn't have enough time.


I think that's it for now.

vegaspassat
05-30-2014, 09:32 PM
Pictures as promised :)

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/31/7ugurybe.jpg

Alternators appear to be the same, so I used the one from the 2.8 because the 2.7 alternator was locked up.


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/31/e2a5esa4.jpg

This is the hose you need to connect BEFORE you install the engine, because it interferes with this part of the bell houseing if you try to install it after the fact.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/31/2ape7a5u.jpg


Look how much room i had to work with!

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/31/ebuteja2.jpg


And it's back in

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/31/my2y3yry.jpg

But alas, the AC lines wont fit. The hit the drivers turbo inlet

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/31/y3emesa3.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/31/tu7y9ere.jpg

So I evacuated the syatem and removed the lines, drier, and condenser. Without the drier in the way, the intercoolers fit. But there is still no room for the brackets so they are just hanging there for now.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/31/y8a5unu7.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/31/nahuvudy.jpg

And of course, the big bummer. The harness has been converted for a hitachi maf. Rather poorly I might add.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/31/gybevaju.jpg



So the plan from here is to get some a/c lines and a hitachi MAF from audis4parts and then hopefully get it to start. I still dont REALLY know if this thing is going to run without any re-wiring needed.



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vegaspassat
06-24-2014, 02:44 AM
Hmph.....got it mostly put together tonight and it cranks but no start...

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zillarob
06-24-2014, 07:12 AM
VCDS rpm while cranking.
Unplug the maf, will run fine without it for now.

vegaspassat
06-24-2014, 09:08 AM
Maf is unplugged already.

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vegaspassat
06-24-2014, 10:18 PM
Alright so here is what I'm working with. I am seeing about 165 rpm during cranking through VCDS. Here is the complete scan I pulled. Unfortunately I have a janky version of VCDS that my friend downloaded onto my computer, so it doesn't give me some of the specifics. I'm wondering if the coding is correct? I didn't clear them first so these could be old codes as well.




VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US


Chassis Type: 3B - VW Passat B5
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,19,35,36,37,46,55,56,57,58,76

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 8D0 907 551 A
Component: 2.7l V6/5VT G 0003
Coding: 06611
Shop #: WSC 05127
17 Faults Found:
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16685 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0301 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16688 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0304 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16690 - Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
P0306 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16689 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0305 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
17536 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1128 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
17538 - Fuel Trim: Bank 2 (Mult): System too Lean
P1130 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17544 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1136 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
17865 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1457 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
18011 - Internal Control Module Failed Self-Test
P1603 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18010 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1602 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
18020 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1612 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate
18028 - Engine Coolant Temp Signal: Open or Short to Plus
P1620 - 35-00 - -
17530 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1122 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
17526 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1118 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
18098 - Malfunction Indication Light (K83): Electrical Malfunction
P1690 - 35-00 - -
18084 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1676 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate
Readiness: 0110 0100

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes
Controller: 3B0 614 111
Component: ABS/ASR 5.3 FRONT D00
Coding: 00032
Shop #: WSC 00028
1 Fault Found:
18258 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ECU
P1850 - 35-00 - -

zillarob
06-24-2014, 10:52 PM
Im nice, but not that nice [evilsmile]
Check this and post what they are https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_zqXWaXPBGTN2EzNTZmMjUtZjkzMC00MjE1LWI1YWItMjE2N DMxNWMxZDVl/edit?usp=sharing

vegaspassat
06-24-2014, 11:16 PM
^^Thanks man! That looks a lot more helpful than google. I googled all of them before I posted, but I guess I just assumed people here would know what each numeric code meant without the text. I guess it's true what they say - when you assume, you make an ass out of yourself. Or something like that. The point being that I'm an ass. Let me alter the orgiginal document and I'll post it again.

zillarob
06-24-2014, 11:27 PM
I would clear them also to see what comes back.
Many of those shouldnt be there from just cranking.

vegaspassat
06-24-2014, 11:31 PM
here is an updated list.


VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US


Chassis Type: 3B - VW Passat B5
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,19,35,36,37,46,55,56,57,58,76

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 8D0 907 551 A
Component: 2.7l V6/5VT G 0003
Coding: 06611
Shop #: WSC 05127
17 Faults Found:
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16685 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0301 - 35-10 - cyl 1 misfire
16688 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0304 - 35-10 - cyl 4 misfire
16690 - Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
P0306 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16689 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0305 - 35-10 - cyl 5 misfire
17536 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1128 - 35-10 - long term fuel trim mult., bank 2 system too rich
17538 - Fuel Trim: Bank 2 (Mult): System too Lean
P1130 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17544 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1136 - 35-10 - long term fuel trim add. fuel, bank 1 system too lean
17865 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1457 - 35-10 - EGT sensor 2 open/short to B+
18011 - Internal Control Module Failed Self-Test
P1603 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18010 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1602 - 35-10 -power supply (b+) terminal 30 low voltage
18020 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1612 - 35-00 - ECM incorrect coding
18028 - Engine Coolant Temp Signal: Open or Short to Plus
P1620 - 35-00 - -
17530 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1122 - 35-10 - O2 sensor heater circ., bank 2 sensor 2 open
17526 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1118 - 35-10 - O2 sensor heater circ., bank 1 sensor 2 open
18098 - Malfunction Indication Light (K83): Electrical Malfunction
P1690 - 35-00 - -
18084 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1676 - 35-00 - drive by wire MIL circ. electrical malfuntion
Readiness: 0110 0100

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes
Controller: 3B0 614 111
Component: ABS/ASR 5.3 FRONT D00
Coding: 00032
Shop #: WSC 00028
1 Fault Found:
18258 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ECU
P1850 - 35-00 - -

vegaspassat
06-24-2014, 11:32 PM
I would clear them also to see what comes back.
Many of those shouldnt be there from just cranking.

That's what I figured. but I didn't want to clear them and then find out later that I shouldn't have for diagnostics sake

vegaspassat
06-24-2014, 11:34 PM
oh and it has a half a tank of gas too - so I know that's not the problem hahahahahaha. Tomorrow I'll clear the codes, crank it again and see what pops up. I'll also do a compression test for good measure. I was told that this was a good engine, but it never hurts to check.

zillarob
06-24-2014, 11:40 PM
Post them up, but whats there now is pointing toward some wiring issues.

vegaspassat
06-25-2014, 09:49 PM
k here are the latest codes (corrected thanks to zillarob)


VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US

Control Module Part Number: 8D0 907 551 A
Component and/or Version: 2.7l V6/5VT G 0003
Software Coding: 06611
Work Shop Code: WSC 05127
6 Faults Found:
18028 - Engine Coolant Temp Signal: Open or Short to Plus
P1620 - 35-00 - -
18020 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1612 - 35-00 -engine control module incorrect coding
17530 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1122 - 35-00 - O2 sensor heater circ. bank 2 sensor 2 short to ground
17526 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating: B1 S2: Open Circuit
P1118 - 35-00 - -
18098 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1690 - 35-00 - malfunction indication lamp malfunction
18084 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1676 - 35-00 - drive by wire MIL circ. electrical malfunction


it sounds to me that all of these codes, save the O2 sensors and coolant, are most likely caused by the ECU not being coded right. Now the question is, how do I code it?

vegaspassat
06-25-2014, 09:58 PM
hmm...I found this http://audisrs.com/archive/how-do-i-re-code-a-new-ecu-on-a-passat-b5__o_t__t_27528.html and am wondering if that's what I need to do. I just don't want to fry anything before I check in with people that know more than me.

zillarob
06-25-2014, 10:00 PM
You might get lucky, but my guess is you need to go back over the wiring.

You need a full or registered version of vcds or vcdslite to code.
06611 is for 6sp w/o esp.
06711 is for 6sp w/esp

zillarob
06-25-2014, 10:03 PM
hmm...I found this http://audisrs.com/archive/how-do-i-re-code-a-new-ecu-on-a-passat-b5__o_t__t_27528.html and am wondering if that's what I need to do. I just don't want to fry anything before I check in with people that know more than me.

No immo in s4 ecu.
If the ecu is powered up and the motor turns, its gonna light (or should anyway).

vegaspassat
06-25-2014, 10:30 PM
You might get lucky, but my guess is you need to go back over the wiring.

You need a full or registered version of vcds or vcdslite to code.
06611 is for 6sp w/o esp.
06711 is for 6sp w/esp

does it matter if it's an a-box or m-box for those codes? There was a lot of good info in the S4 wiki, but it's been down for some time now.

zillarob
06-25-2014, 10:37 PM
I think you are right, esp was prob not an option on the abox.

Down the road you may consider flashing an mbox converted for bosch maf, or straight mbox and hitachi maf swap.
More info on the mbox out there if you plan on playing around in the ecu.

I think there are some wiring issues. That drive by wire one may be a killer, but should prob still run with the others.
Is it getting fuel, spark, and all that good stuff?

oppositelock
06-25-2014, 10:41 PM
There was a lot of good info in the S4 wiki, but it's been down for some time now.

Bummer, I didn't realize it was gone. But we have the Wayback Machine:

https://web.archive.org/web/20140214005957/http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Main_Page

vegaspassat
06-25-2014, 11:02 PM
I think you are right, esp was prob not an option on the abox.

Down the road you may consider flashing an mbox converted for bosch maf, or straight mbox and hitachi maf swap.
More info on the mbox out there if you plan on playing around in the ecu.

i actually have both mafs. i've left it unplugged for all of this though.

other things of interest:

I changed the coding to 06711 and now ther eis an EPC light that comes on.




ALSO
when I go to CAN gateway I get this fault

VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US

Control Module Part Number: 6N0 909 901
Component and/or Version: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
Software Coding: 00006
Work Shop Code: WSC 00028
1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
49-00 - No Communications


I will have to start looking at the basics (compression, spark, fuel) tomorrow when I have a little more daylight/freetime.

zillarob
06-25-2014, 11:08 PM
maf unplugged will throw the epc light because it is part of the load calculation.
It is interesting that you do not have a maf code though?

I think you should flash to stock mbox and wire for hitachi maf.

vegaspassat
06-25-2014, 11:08 PM
Bummer, I didn't realize it was gone. But we have the Wayback Machine:

https://web.archive.org/web/20140214005957/http://s4wiki.com/wiki/Main_Page

hmm it looks like the way back machine doesn't give you the full site with all the info.

vegaspassat
06-25-2014, 11:10 PM
maf unplugged will throw the epc light because it is part of the load calculation.
It is interesting that you do not have a maf code though?

I think you should flash to stock mbox and wire for hitachi maf.

it is wired for hitachi maf, but i have to have someone flash it to stock m-box

zillarob
06-25-2014, 11:13 PM
The cable you are using now and nefmoto software should do it. Grab a stock mbox file there also.

vegaspassat
06-25-2014, 11:13 PM
I wonder if I have to code it as a 2.8 ECU? This area is SO not my forte

vegaspassat
06-25-2014, 11:24 PM
Gonna have a friend come and take a look at it soon. Maybe he can teach me a thing or two

zillarob
06-25-2014, 11:31 PM
Might have to do something like that.
S4 mbox in allroad was a little tricky, but the mbox in a b6 was standard coding.

vegaspassat
06-25-2014, 11:44 PM
Should I try plugging in the 2.8 ecu to read the ecu code? And if i use said code with the S4 ecu, will it wreck it?

zillarob
06-26-2014, 03:34 PM
Dont think I would plug it back in now, pin out may be different.

I would try the pass-it forum and see if somebody there can check the coding on their car.
If that is a no go, might be some destructions on nef to do it on the bench.

vegaspassat
06-28-2014, 12:54 AM
I realized I wasnt hearing the pump prime when I turned the key on. So i checked the connector and no power to the pump. Checked the relay and I have power to the switch side and coil side, but the ground of the coil side has no continuity to ground. Is this ground switched by a control module? Or is it switched by the key?

vegaspassat
06-28-2014, 12:56 AM
I also tried checking to see if the pump was good by jumping the wires at the relay plug, but the pump disnt turn on. I need another person present to jump it so I can check for voltage at the pump

vegaspassat
07-05-2014, 09:48 PM
I pulled the pump tonight and bench tested it. Definitely no good. However, the new pump isnt getting power to it. I have verified the fuel pump relay is good, but for some reason it is not clicking over to complete the circuit. Very interesting stuff.

T.pops
07-06-2014, 09:14 AM
This sounds interesting. At least you have narrowed it down a little bit more. Keep at it.

vegaspassat
07-06-2014, 09:06 PM
I found out the fuel pump relay is grounded through the ECM, as in, the ECM directly tells the fuel relay to energize. I checked continuity between the body harness plug in the ECU compartment and the fuel pump relay plug and found it to be good. This leads me to a couple of possibilities.

1) There is a sensor sending the ECU a signal telling it to not energize the pump. I believe this can be discounted due to there not being any DTCs for these sensors (i.e. crank/cam position sensors)

2)The wiring is wrong from the body harness plugs to the engine harness. Again, I don't think that is the case. There would be a lot more DTCs, popped fuses, etc if that were the case.

3) The ECU is junk. I could see this being a possibility, considering the first time I pulled codes there was a code for an internal malfunction within the ECU. However, the fault has not returned so I can't say for certain that is the case.

4) The ECU needs to be coded properly. I think this is the most likely culprit. I got a BIN file from aysix and I plan on flashing the ECU once I get my fuel pump in the mail.


I'll update again once I get the pump in and file loaded.

zillarob
07-06-2014, 09:11 PM
I think all it looks for crank angle (rpm) to turn the pump on.
You can command it on by going into output tests. Pretty much any of them will trigger the fuel pump (half the shit on the motor is also powered by the fuel pump relay).

vegaspassat
07-07-2014, 01:24 AM
*sigh* i guess I need to buy vcds cuz the lite version doesnt do output tests.

vegaspassat
07-15-2014, 11:26 PM
It lives....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xos2MnVxe-c&feature=youtu.be

zillarob
07-16-2014, 09:22 AM
Yee Haw!!
What did you find?

vegaspassat
07-16-2014, 04:44 PM
I put in the new fuel pump and had to replace the fuel level sensor while I was in there. I turned on the key and I didn't hear the pump prime, but decided to try it anyway. I cranked it just for like 5 seconds because it sounds like the heat is taking it's toll on my battery. After cranking I jumped the relay again to see if I could hear the pump prime. Come to find out, the new pump is just SUPER quiet. So I un-jumped it and cranked it over again. This time it started and ran!!!! With all the chimes going off the first few seconds I turn the key, it's impossible to hear the pump priming. I let it run for about 15 seconds before I shut it down. I still don't have any coolant in the car so I didn't want to mess it up.

vegaspassat
07-24-2014, 04:37 PM
It's startng to look a little more like a car

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/25/avaju5yt.jpg



I found these in the passenger side horn. Im pretty sure they've all hatched and moved on by now, because I havent seen any black widows in the car in a long time.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/25/papytuqu.jpg

Royal769sr
07-25-2014, 03:55 AM
Glad to see you got things going forward again.. You better hope those Black widows have moved on. I see now why you have been taking some time to complete this... Your outside in the heat!! Can't say its any worse than me in my extreme temp garage. Also... I have a VCDS full version.Hit me up

vegaspassat
07-28-2014, 07:13 PM
Yeah, not only am I working in the heat, but I have ZERO shade. I just might take you up on the offer to use your VCDS. I'll let you know if I get the right ECU in there and I still have a MIL or CEL.

SlammedB5.5
07-29-2014, 08:34 AM
Keep it up man. I have the swap done on my passat. Only issue im having is main o2 sensors keep giving me a cel light. Cant seem to figure it out.

vegaspassat
07-29-2014, 02:41 PM
So how many people have actually done this?? There was the first guy in Canada with the white avant, there was another guy in sweden or norway, the red avant tiptronic, the K04 monster in new jersey, another one on Passatworld that is the same color as mine, and now you Slammedb5.5. And I saw a couple of German youtube videos.

vegaspassat
07-30-2014, 02:06 AM
I thought tonight was gonna be the night i took it for a spin. I got the front end put on and started filling it with coolant and BAM - coolant leak.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/30/date7u8a.jpg

I cant tell where its coming from, but it looks to be the water pump area.

aysix
07-30-2014, 02:11 AM
Plastic or metal thermostat housing? the bleeder valve closed?

vegaspassat
07-30-2014, 02:44 AM
Bleeder valve is closed, but i had the weep hole exposed on the heater core line. Dunno what material the t-stat housing is made of.

vegaspassat
07-31-2014, 09:44 PM
Water pump is definitely leaking. My guess is when the PO did the timing belt and pumo he didnt get all the old gasket off

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/01/y3u7ezeb.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/01/a6a5ahuh.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/01/pyzeja2y.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/01/2eby7e4u.jpg

pipe7284
08-01-2014, 06:52 AM
bummer

Royal769sr
08-01-2014, 08:10 AM
Man that sucks..

vegaspassat
08-01-2014, 06:24 PM
The ironic thing about it is that I have a complete timing kit, EXCEPT for the pump. I'm headed to mexico on tuesday so I won't be able to make any progress on it until I get back.

zillarob
08-01-2014, 08:30 PM
They prob used the junk paper gasket that came with the pump and didnt clean the old one off well enough.
Those pos like to petrify on there so make sure you get it all nice and clean before you put the new one on.

Grab either of these gaskets from the dealer.
078 121 043 A - what they usually give for our cars. Its a thick green waxy paper that will come off cleanly on your next tbelt service.
06C 121 043 - nice metal one used on the newer 3l motors.

vegaspassat
08-01-2014, 09:16 PM
Cool thanks for the tip! Which of those two would you say is the best?

zillarob
08-01-2014, 09:42 PM
I dont know that either is better and they are about the same price.
They both seal and come off cleanly when you get back in there, thats all I care about [;)]

The plain paper pos that comes with the pump is a nightmare to get off after it petrifies on there.

vegaspassat
08-07-2014, 10:40 PM
No work on the passat this week. Hola from Mexico!

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/08/ana2ary5.jpg

vegaspassat
08-14-2014, 01:51 AM
Changed out the timing belt, thermostat, water pump, and all the pulleys tonight. For everyone's information, the waterpump gasket from an 03 passat is one of the metal ones and only ran me 11 bucks at the dealer. I think they go for more at the audi dealer. I also discovered that my fan clutch is leaking, so I'll be picking one of those up tomorrow. Pics for clicks.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/14/bu6eve7e.jpg

vegaspassat
08-15-2014, 02:56 AM
Well damn....I got everything put back together again, and it is still leaking coolant [headbang] except this time it is actually coming out of the bottom of the bell housing [confused] any ideas guys? From the looks of it, it could possibly be leaking up at the aux water pump area and getting into the bell housing from there.

joeSfour
08-15-2014, 02:43 PM
If it's not coming from up top, could be the rear main seal, or o-rings on the coolant hard pipe.

vegaspassat
08-15-2014, 04:59 PM
The rear main has coolant passages???

oppositelock
08-16-2014, 11:14 PM
Yep, those coolant passages covered by the RMS flange are where all the crap in the cooling system accumulates. There's actually a drain screw up there that's accessible through the upper oil pan. Maybe it's just leaking there.

vegaspassat
08-17-2014, 01:56 AM
Im going to take it off the jack stands tomorrow and put some coolant in it to see if it puddles under the manifold.

vegaspassat
08-17-2014, 11:41 PM
Our garbage disposal seized up tonight so I didnt get a chance to look at the passat. The joys of being a home owner i guess

vegaspassat
08-19-2014, 11:54 PM
ok so I took the car off the jack stands and filled it with water and boom - the valley is filling with water. Awesome. So I take of the intake manifold to just do an aux water pump delete. But when i get to the pump, it's bone dry. WTF? I removed the pump and can see that the water is most likely coming from somewhere on the driver's side, but that's it. I have no idea where it is leaking, other than it is on the top of the engine somewhere on the drivers side of the valley.

jaychen
08-20-2014, 05:31 AM
was the old pump all crusty and you could see it was split?

vegaspassat
08-20-2014, 02:13 PM
No not at all. It looks to be in very good condition. I completely removed it and there is still water collecting in the valley from somewhere

Monty23
08-20-2014, 02:35 PM
No not at all. It looks to be in very good condition. I completely removed it and there is still water collecting in the valley from somewhere

Review PDF page 25 here: http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/B5/S4/Audi_B5_RS4_V6BiTurbo_EnginePartNumbers.pdf

I bet its item 3.

joeSfour
08-20-2014, 03:01 PM
I would take a look at the coolant hard pipes on top. I recently had to replace the one closest to the front of the motor. It is the same size as a coolant temp sensor.

vegaspassat
08-20-2014, 08:04 PM
Review PDF page 25 here: http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/B5/S4/Audi_B5_RS4_V6BiTurbo_EnginePartNumbers.pdf

I bet its item 3.

Item three on which page? VERY neat PDF though thanks!

Monty23
08-20-2014, 11:08 PM
Page 25 like I said

vegaspassat
08-21-2014, 01:01 AM
Im an idoit. Thank you

vegaspassat
08-21-2014, 04:34 AM
From that diagram it looks to be coming from 11, 25, or 16 on page 27

vegaspassat
08-23-2014, 11:01 AM
alright, I found the leak. It's coming from o-ring number 17 on page 27. I found it by removing the large coolant hose from the reservoir, and fitting a similarly sized tube inside of that hose. Then I clamped the smaller hose on the reservoir shut. Sprayed the area in the valley with some soapy water, blew into the tube I attached to the coolant hose and voila! I could see bubbles popping up where the leak is. Now I just have to figure out the best way to replace that o-ring.

RickyCastro
08-23-2014, 01:06 PM
You should replace all of those. Do it right the first time around

vegaspassat
08-29-2014, 09:07 PM
Fuck me. I gave the audi parts dept the seal number from that diagram, got the part, put it in, and it is still leaking from that connection.

vegaspassat
08-30-2014, 09:31 PM
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/30/fb4d4fdcf491461b0fb00d84ee9ddcbb.jpg

I figured out what happened. When I pulled this pipe out I used the bolt hole on the tang as a lever point to get it out. In doing so I bent the tang so that when I re-installed it, it pushed too far into the block causing the coolant to leak past it. There is a small "sweet spot" in the bore that the oring is supposed to seal against. Any farther in, and it just opens up into the coolant passage. Gonna have to call audis4parts on monday.

zillarob
08-31-2014, 09:23 AM
Woah! I didnt think that one came out without pulling the larger one above (which means pulling the waterpump).

All of those that I have seen be a prob were because they had froze and tweaked the tab.

vegaspassat
08-31-2014, 01:35 PM
I was able to move the pipe you are talking about out of the way enough to wiggle it out the back. There is a LOT of room to work on the back of the engine. I can very easily attach and disconnect the heater core hoses on the back of the engine. Taking off the hard pipe from the heads was pretty easy too.

vegaspassat
08-31-2014, 03:24 PM
I just thought of something....Monday is a holiday. Does anyone know if audis4parts is closed tomorrow?

vegaspassat
09-02-2014, 09:53 PM
Ordered the pipe from Phil at audis4parts today. He told me on the phone here are a couple other people doing this swap that have ordered parts from him! Hopefully those people found this thread and found it informational.

vegaspassat
11-02-2014, 08:54 PM
Long time, no post guys. I've been waiting on the weather to cool off a bit before I worked on the car again. I ordered silicone vacuum caps for the f-hose delete because the rubber piece I had on there was already cracked to shit.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/02/2f04d2a49f102b93659f0378bba5af4e.jpg

I got some phenolic spacers from a good friend of mine for free, so I installed those before I put everything back together this evening.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/02/b6227f981bae443ee7ec1b57abcf96c7.jpg

And wouldnt you know it, i tried to start it and my battery is as dead as a fuckin door nail lol


I told my girlfriend to go pick up a battery charger for me tomorrow, so I'll post a video of it running once the battery is charged.

RedRocketS4
11-03-2014, 12:03 PM
Tulum is the best

vegaspassat
11-03-2014, 07:13 PM
4 sho. It was hot as balls that day though and the humidity was outrageous.

vegaspassat
11-03-2014, 11:05 PM
Damn. Crank no start again. Jumped the fuel pump relay and no noise from the pump. measuring 12v at the pump when I jump it though.

Royal769sr
11-04-2014, 10:15 AM
Damn, that sucks

vegaspassat
11-06-2014, 10:35 PM
I got a fuel pump and bracket from SRM today

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/06/b0a68498c4a988dfb2800b318a40176a.jpg

But I'm not exactly sure how the bracket is supposed to mount in the tank :confused: maybe someone could chime in?


The condition of the old pump has me really concerned as well

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/06/8112799153e60abacef7a9deef714c83.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/06/46f7af2a01682746531c4de7ee2cabe6.jpg


This pump isnt very old at all. The little rubber bushings were all gooey. I know the gas in the tank is really old, but I didnt think it would eat a pump in a matter of months. How do I make sure it doesnt fuck up my engine? Will a half a tank of bad gas fuck up my engine? Also - you can see the fuel return line in the corner of the picture. It was so brittle that it just snapped. How in the hell do I replace that?

vegaspassat
11-08-2014, 09:53 PM
Sean sent me the picture I needed so I was ablento figure it out. Just waiting for vw to get in the in-tank return line I need. I'm half tempted to say fuck it and just put it back together as it is without the in-tank return line....

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/08/26e73b09976420a042c5c9e3ff72f795.jpg

vegaspassat
11-12-2014, 10:39 PM
Well damn. It looks like the line in the tank is integral to the tank, so I'll have to buy a new tank. I think for now I will just put it back together andnworry about the tank later

vegaspassat
11-22-2014, 12:11 PM
I havent installed a new tank or return line yet but I let it run for a minute today. No exhaust on it right now so it sounds like ****, but you get the idea :-)

https://vimeo.com/112583072

vegaspassat
11-23-2014, 06:56 PM
Had a friend come by today to clear my codes causing my CEL. Hopefully they don't come back. I found a pretty substantial leak coming from the oil distribution block under the intake manifold. In this chassis there is a lot of room behind the engine,so I think I can replace the necessary parts without pulling the manifold again.

When I pulled the car around the house and into the garage, I noticed there is a really bad shutter when I let out the clutch. It's an fx400 with a single mass flywheel. Does it take some miles to break these in? Or is something wrong? Any ideas?

zillarob
11-24-2014, 09:42 PM
I always thought they were a little smoother at first, and got a little grabbier as the broke in.
If you were slipping it and it got hot, will def get grabby.

vegaspassat
11-25-2014, 09:09 PM
Thanks for the quick reply! On thanksgiving I plan on spending most of the morning figuring out the oil leak and re-situating the fuel pump. I think the pump is sitting too high in the basket.

vegaspassat
12-02-2014, 10:50 PM
Picked up the seals from audi today. Looks like I'll be busy this weekend

vegaspassat
12-13-2014, 11:39 PM
I took the intake manifold off to get to the turbo oil feed lines tonight. The crush washer on the side I suspected of leaking looked a bit mangled, so I'm 85% certain that's where the leak is coming from. I say 85% because I only loosened the one side while I was replacing the coolant pipe under the manifold and I must have over tightened it causing the crush washer to deform. Back when I let the car run the first time without coolant in it there wasn't a noticeable oil leak. It's also possible that the rubber o-ring underneath the distribution block is leaking, but when I tried to remove it to replace the o-ring it didn't want to budge. That makes me believe the o-ring is sealing properly.

Interestingly, the etka diagram calls for two crush washers per banjo fitting but when i removed the lines I only found one washer per fitting. I plan on installing two per side, but it struck me as odd that only one line was leaking in spite of the missing crush washers. I also broke the plastic line reducer for the f-hose when I was taking out the manifold, so the car won't be put back together tonight.

vegaspassat
12-18-2014, 10:47 PM
Started torquing the manifold bolts down and they feel like they are stripping the head. So I'm going to call 034 tomorrow to order the longer bolts.

vegaspassat
12-26-2014, 09:15 PM
Got the manifold back on last night and wouldn't you know it the battery is dead again. Imust have a parasitic draw somewhere that I need to find. Small potatoes though. I had to get a new charger so I'll let it charge tonight.

vegaspassat
01-01-2015, 10:31 PM
Happy new year everyone! I had to get a new battery, but thankfully they replaced it under warranty. I let it get up to operating temp tonight and no leaks!! It has a pretty heavy tick now though, so I'm going to have to figure out what that's all about.

vegaspassat
01-03-2015, 02:33 PM
Here are the codes I pulled this morning from it.

4 Faults Found:
16730 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G163): Implausible Signal
P0346 - 35-00 - -
17931 - Crash Signal from Airbag Control Unit range/performance
P1523 - 35-00 -
16486 - Mass or Volume Air Flow Circ Low Input
P0102 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16534 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S1: Malfunction in Circuit
P0150 - 35-00 - -

Does anyone know which cam sensor that is? And does anyone know which side bank 2 is?

vegaspassat
01-05-2015, 01:10 AM
Checked out block 093 and bank one is at 9.0 and bank two is at -2.0. Going to have a friend come by on wednesday to help make sure the chain under the valve cover is timed correctly. Still need to figure out how to look at live O2 and MAF readings

vegaspassat
02-13-2015, 10:58 PM
So I think I found the cause of my cam sensor fault

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/13/ab0d997719cb1c536dc55ccfae7e8fc0.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/13/79579748334d36b8233ca1059bee1ee4.jpg

In recent news, I'm going to missouri for 4 months for TDY so there won't be any updates for a long time.


Also worth noting - I'm thinking of ditching this car. I got a line on another passat that I think would be better for the swap. It's a W8 passat with a blown head gasket..... and it's a 6 speed...... and it's AWD...... and it's an avant........ and it's cheap......And I've already got a stg 3 kit sitting in the garage sooo......

vegaspassat
02-21-2015, 05:10 PM
I'm sure you guys are tired of the lack of progress on this project, but I'm changing horses in mid-stream again. I found a deal that was too good to pass up. I'll be ditching the sedan in favor of putting my 2.7 in this wagon

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/21/1cc30e7ea1143d25789915ebcc214650.jpg

It came with a buch of extra suspension parts

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/21/f2af85dd30ecfb6c9f7351e2f1b6bbb0.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/21/28dba86efa2ea8a33a138141b549ce00.jpg

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/21/a2b917cd968732e542703ec0aac46350.jpg

vegaspassat
02-21-2015, 05:11 PM
BTW, 01E's shift like a bucket of dicks compared to the fwd 5 speed

Royal769sr
02-24-2015, 04:19 PM
Wow man, I was wondering what happened. Good luck. I habe top swing thru

Royal769sr
02-24-2015, 04:19 PM
Wow man, I was wondering what happened. Good luck. I habe top swing thruhave to

vegaspassat
09-30-2015, 06:30 PM
I'm back! sorry for the haiatus, but duty calls and such. I got my MAF code taken care of (bad sensor) but I'm still having an O2 and cam sensor fault. O2 is now saying high resistance intermittently so I'm thinking it is the sensor since I already checked all the wires between the sensor and the ecu. I have no idea what is going on with the implausible cam position signal.

On block 93 bank 1 says -0.1CF and bank 2 says -0.2CF. Any ideas?

on block 91 and 92 it also says that cam control is OFF. Shouldnt that be on?

sherbet
11-10-2015, 02:54 PM
BTW, 01E's shift like a bucket of dicks compared to the fwd 5 speed

this made me LOL.

I will agree as someone who owns a B5 S4 and a B5.5 5-speed FWD passat (1.8t). My 5 speed takes a BEATING and still shifts better than my pristine 01-E in the S4.

vegaspassat
11-11-2015, 09:07 PM
Figured put my timing issue, it is the driver side intake cam that is off a tooth.

vegaspassat
12-07-2015, 08:43 PM
If you are curious about my trials with the intake timing, check out this thread http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/675458-cam-signal-implausible-code?p=11240226#post11240226

It's running with no codes now! So now I just have to get an exhaust installed on it and get it smogged. Then I can start fixing all the other piddley shit on it. I still haven't decided if I want to keep the engine in this body, or if I want to transfer it over to my W8 wagon. I've been toying with the idea of just selling this whole thing as it is and doing a VRt on the wagon. But I guess the first thing I need to do is see how much I like driving the sedan with it's new power plant.

vegaspassat
12-14-2015, 10:33 PM
I'm not going to lie, it felt REALLY cool to take these two pictures

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/14/642c97b3aa95470beb87891eb8b2a943.jpg





http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/14/f252cf627e110a5982f9c67cd009c674.jpg

jaychen
12-15-2015, 03:05 AM
does it skid 4th gear?

vegaspassat
12-15-2015, 08:46 AM
I havent had it in 4th yet, but 2nd is pretty squirrely

jaychen
12-16-2015, 12:03 AM
report back with 4th gear results asap

vegaspassat
12-16-2015, 01:16 PM
You mean FATS times?

vegaspassat
12-19-2015, 07:04 PM
Got an exhaust put on it today. Its a magnaflow and is REALLY droney at about 2200 on the freeway, but is pretty quiet when i mash on it. Im not terribly happy with it, but it will do. Unfortunately the SSAC exhaust I have wouldnt work. 3rd gear pull on the freeway was pretty good. I'm also pleased to announce that the cruise control is operating just fine.

jaychen
12-20-2015, 08:48 PM
You mean FATS times?

No, just joking around since you said you haven't had it in 4th yet, but said 2nd was pretty squirmy.

Hmm I was actually planning on using magnaflow mufflers for my setup. What size exhaust and what muffler(s) did you use?

vegaspassat
12-20-2015, 09:22 PM
They put 2.25 inch pipe and one magnaflow (unknown model) dual in and dual out. I'm not happy with it at all really, but I needed an exhaust on it asap so it is what it is. I'll try to get video of it this week.

Royal769sr
12-21-2015, 09:12 AM
They put 2.25 inch pipe and one magnaflow (unknown model) dual in and dual out. I'm not happy with it at all really, but I needed an exhaust on it asap so it is what it is. I'll try to get video of it this week.
Wow man! Long time no see. Almost forgot about this build. I have to check it out

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

vegaspassat
12-21-2015, 05:30 PM
Wow man! Long time no see. Almost forgot about this build. I have to check it out

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
Come on by sometime!

Royal769sr
12-21-2015, 07:13 PM
Come on by sometime!
Sound good bro. I think you live pretty close. Or didn't you move? I'm near the lodge on Durango

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vegaspassat
12-21-2015, 11:15 PM
I'm on buffalo and summerlin parkway

vegaspassat
12-22-2015, 10:08 PM
Well, I got the check engine light to stay off long enough for an emission test, so it will have plates soon! I'm having the strangest misfire issue though. Random misfires but only when it's cold. After it warms up they go away.

Royal769sr
12-26-2015, 11:44 PM
Congrats! I will hopefully be passing smog soon as well.

Misfire goes away after warmup, possibly something loose and after the metal gets hot and expands causing it to seal up?

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vegaspassat
12-29-2015, 10:23 PM
Not sure. I'm gonna start with the easy stuff first. Fuel filter and then a compression test. As bad as the fuel in the tank was (ate up a new pump in 4 months) im sure the filter is shit.

aysix
12-30-2015, 10:31 AM
Wow i can post here now. Thank you audizine for letting me post in this subforum after 3 fucking years.

vegaspassat
12-31-2015, 01:03 PM
Did u get the ban hammer or something?

Royal769sr
12-31-2015, 02:12 PM
Hey Dan. This is the guy I told you about long ass time ago doing the swap you wanted to do that lives here in Vegas

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vegaspassat
01-06-2016, 09:28 PM
Finally got it registered today!

Royal769sr
01-07-2016, 11:14 AM
Kick ass

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vegaspassat
01-19-2016, 04:27 PM
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/19/16d416ddea882a63850805d119a02e0f.jpg

Got my plates in the mail today

Royal769sr
01-19-2016, 08:23 PM
Nice

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Royal769sr
01-21-2016, 09:52 PM
But for those that don't see it right away or know what the car is , Might see.
Bit ur Bo.

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vegaspassat
01-23-2016, 11:27 AM
In the interest of full disclosure, I took my car to the track last night and weighed after racing. Needless to say I'm pretty disapointed. Here is my best run of the night. Car weighed 3500 on the dot with me in it. I am on the right.


http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/23/6e7a5435cb73b8c4c92057394e8ecb70.jpg

The next step from here is to check for boost leaks, install a boost gauge, buy tires and play with the tune.

Royal769sr
01-24-2016, 11:42 AM
That's not bad. You are basically a stock 2.7t right

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vegaspassat
01-24-2016, 12:30 PM
it has a tune and piggy pipes.

Royal769sr
01-25-2016, 10:00 AM
Well remember that our track is a heart breaker and 90% of a 1/4 mile time (imho) depends on a killer 60ft.
You weren't double clutching or granny shifting were you? :)

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vegaspassat
01-25-2016, 11:20 AM
It's my fuel map man, its got a nasty hole. Thats why I'm unloading in third.

MacDaddy
01-25-2016, 12:19 PM
Work on your reaction time and launch and you can be in the 14's

vegaspassat
01-28-2016, 08:44 PM
RT doesnt affect ET though. The clock doesnt start ticking until you leave the line