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ToXicXxX
08-20-2013, 10:27 PM
Does anyone know what could be causing some arcing that's happening on the exhaust side of my motor near the frame for the bumper mount? I checked the ground point and the wire was intact, so I doubt it's that. It recently arced clean through a hose clamp holding one of my coolent lines together and I ended up stuck on the highway wile my buddy ran me a jug of Pentosin and a hose clamp...

If that wasnt enough... My car LOVES to shake itself to bits. I've had my turbo studs back out (one fell out on the road...), and just about every bolt in the car has done similar (kept smelling fuel... My custom fuel rail setup ha backed out and was letting a bit of fuel vapor into the engine bay). I locktited the shit out of them, but I'm still worried my studs will give me another run for my money. Can I run bolts holding the turbo to the manifold? I have a bunch of grade 8.8's laying around and some lock washers to accompany them.

I have no doubt this stems from my downpipe rubbing against the frame, but without bending it what exactly can I do to reduce vibrations? It's heavily exhaust wrapped on the contact point to try and absorb vibration but I doubt it's helping.

xdewaynex
08-20-2013, 10:33 PM
Are you running any sort of turbo bracket, or bracket from the downpipe to the original trans mounting location? I was having this problem with my Frankenturbo, installed ARP bolts, and modified the original turbo bracket to work around my AN fittings on the turbo.

Gumby
08-20-2013, 10:44 PM
Have the downpipe modified to fit properly. For the turbo mounting bolts, I've had good luck with stage 8 locking fasteners. On the exhaust side I have a v-band adapter mounted using arp bolts and high temp loctite. Neither has come loose.

ToXicXxX
08-20-2013, 10:50 PM
Have the downpipe modified to fit properly. For the turbo mounting bolts, I've had good luck with stage 8 locking fasteners. On the exhaust side I have a v-band adapter mounted using arp bolts and high temp loctite. Neither has come loose.

My v-band and the T25 5 bolt flange haven't come loose, just the turbo from the manifold. If it wasn't thanks to the stud not being able to physically back all the way out with the turbo mounted I'd have lost it mid drive and probably been boned.

I suspect when I pull the motor to swap everything out to the new one I will torque the crap out of my bolts. Part of the issue is not being able to get a torque wrench into the bay.


Are you running any sort of turbo bracket, or bracket from the downpipe to the original trans mounting location? I was having this problem with my Frankenturbo, installed ARP bolts, and modified the original turbo bracket to work around my AN fittings on the turbo.

No turbo bracket, where would I mount it on the 2871R? Maybe when I have the motor back I can take a look into these things.

http://i.imgur.com/9NO0Gdp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/emEwNQj.jpg

Gumby
08-20-2013, 10:55 PM
Your turbo is internally gated, right? Might have a hard time getting a blanket on it.

ToXicXxX
08-20-2013, 11:01 PM
Your turbo is internally gated, right? Might have a hard time getting a blanket on it.

Yes it is.

The shock thing is really worrying me... Im amazed it hasn't zapped the hell out of me yet.

xdewaynex
08-20-2013, 11:22 PM
Have you checked to see if you maybe have a wire pinched somewhere, possibly the starter wire? Thats the only thing I can think of, that would be on the passenger side, that would burn through a clamp.

ToXicXxX
08-20-2013, 11:30 PM
Have you checked to see if you maybe have a wire pinched somewhere, possibly the starter wire? Thats the only thing I can think of, that would be on the passenger side, that would burn through a clamp.

It's right beside a ground wire, but it's still wrapped. I covered the water line in a restive mastic, hopefully that works.