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BirdTurbo
08-18-2013, 01:51 PM
For the oil pan job do I really need a 5mm, 9in long hex to get to those two bolts. I have 5inch will that do? Also for the crank is it 19mm 12 point for all models?

BirdTurbo
08-18-2013, 11:36 PM
bump????

Seerlah
08-19-2013, 01:51 AM
Not quite sure 5 inches will cut it (that's what she said [eek]). And I am pretty sure it is 12 point 19mm for all engine codes. I know it is a def for the AWM. Head sizes should be the same, but the thread shaft differs.

BirdTurbo
08-19-2013, 11:51 PM
Well she was right it is a 5+. As for the socket, it is 19mm 12 point for AEB.

BirdTurbo
08-23-2013, 01:06 PM
Will the permatex ultra black gasket maker be okay with the gasket that I have to install. As I lost the oem one that came with the kit.

Seerlah
08-23-2013, 02:30 PM
Don't use that crap. Use the OEM gasket for the 058 and Victor Reinz sealant for the 06A. Get a new gasket if you lost your old one.

GOODBYNAAIR
08-23-2013, 02:59 PM
I used some Sweet Volvo Oem stuff on my pan and its never leaked a drop [:D]

BirdTurbo
08-23-2013, 10:08 PM
Is there any suitable alternative as for sealants that is of the shelf, I have my new gasket by the way. If not how much would it cost at the dealership?

Gearheadjarrod
08-24-2013, 04:19 AM
I used permatex it's been months not a leak. Stuff works great

Seerlah
08-24-2013, 05:20 AM
It's not the sealing part that is the issue. It's the taking off part. You'll see, if you ever have to drop the pan again. The Victor Reinz sealant turns into like a rubber pliable compound when dried. The Permatex stuff turns into like a hard glue (even though listed as non-hardening). Made the mistake of using that on my valve cover before. Had to use a pry bar to get it off when I wanted to place my powder coated one on. I wrench on my own car, and I had to go to my mechanic for a damn valve cover job. That is when he pulled out the pry bar. Never had one leak for years. But when you try and take it off it won't be as easy as you may want it to be.

BirdTurbo
08-24-2013, 10:29 AM
How much would one tube cost at Volkswagen dealership. I don't want to order one..............

Roadtrippn
08-24-2013, 10:52 AM
Do you own a phone?

BirdTurbo
08-24-2013, 11:34 AM
Will oem Volkswagen silicone sealant for the pan do the trick. I don't exactly live close to a audi dealership. They didn't have any victor reinz.

I think I might have gotten ahead of myself, I just started jacking the transmission up whenever It dawned on me is everything stable. As I lowered back down I noticed that the front motor mounts were not aligned in the mount holes and were sitting on the mount frame; I raised it back to prevent damage. Also the tranmission mount bolts that I loosened where sitting touching above normal position due to the mounts. What should I do to correct this without fucking up my motor mounts even more.
Should I have also taken care of these two in the back to correct my motor mounts?, I went of seerlah description on how to do this?http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/IMG_0293.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/IMG_0293.jpg.html)

gg



Also will I be able to finally get this bolt here if I do it right
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/IMG_0292.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/IMG_0292.jpg.html)

1986nate
08-24-2013, 06:20 PM
I used some Sweet Volvo Oem stuff on my pan and its never leaked a drop [:D]

I love anaerobic sealant! (I assume this is what you speak of)

GOODBYNAAIR
08-24-2013, 07:28 PM
Yes I believe that's what it was. ^^


was not this but something like it.




http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5331/113027-volvo-anaerobic-chemical-gasket-sealer

BirdTurbo
08-25-2013, 09:23 AM
Sounds good, but my other question?

Seerlah
08-25-2013, 09:38 AM
To get the pan out you loosen the motor mount bottom bolts, tranny mounts, throttle body hose (should cause an issue if you don't), and exhaust hanger on the downpipe (should also cause an issue if you don't). Place a wood prop under the tranny and lift up with a hydraulic jack. You will not be able to lift anymore when the rear coolant flange hits the false cylinder wall (if you can jack it this high) or the radiator fan hits the core support. If you can't get to all the bolts after this, you drop the subframe a bit. In the pic you have, those are just a couple bolts that need to be loosened (note, these just need to be loosened and not fully removed. you just need to loosen them enough to let the subframe drop enough for that extra clearance). There are a couple more per side. You need to lower both the front and rear of that subframe. And note, that you will also want to get your alingment checked after loosening and tightening those bolts. They play with your caster/camber and toe when moved.

Also I was under the impression the 058 uses just the gasket? Meaning, you don't require sealant here but just the gasket. AWM does not use a gasket there, and that is why we use the sealant.

And use caution when removing the oil pan. There is a plastic baffle plate (this MUST be placed back in) that you can break if you try and force the pan out. What I did was loosen the baffle plate with the opening I had once the pan was dropped, let the baffle plate/windage tray fall into the pan, and took it out like that. Reassembled in reverse.

And don't forget the 2 little 5mm hex bolts through the flywheel.

And if those bottom bolts give you a problem placing them back in, then don't. I didn't place any of those back in, and many don't either. Of course it would be best to place them back in, but not absolutely necessary.

BirdTurbo
08-25-2013, 02:01 PM
It uses sealant with the gasket since it came with the Aeb kit.

The back two bolts on the pan? Woah

What about the motor mounts when I tried lowering they won't go back in without physical holding it while lowering it.

Seerlah
08-25-2013, 02:15 PM
Yeah, the motor mounts never lined up on me when placing them back in for whatever reason. One thing I can say is don't get your finger pinched in there. It hurts like a mofo. Ask me how I know!

And yes, there are 2 hidden bolts that go through the flywheel. One of those smaller 5mm hex ones that go all around the pan. You need to use a 5mm extension to get them out. You turn the crank till the slot is revealed and you can see the bolt. That is what those 2 bottom holes that sit between the bell housing and oil pan are for. Access points.

BirdTurbo
08-25-2013, 02:21 PM
What I meant was you actually leave those two back bolts out and you don't leak at all?

Seerlah
08-25-2013, 02:50 PM
No. I place all the oil pan to engine block bolts back. All of them, including those 2 longer ones on the bottom. What I didn't do is place back the oil pan to bell housing bolts. All of them. ha.

BirdTurbo
08-26-2013, 08:18 PM
Looks like I might have to disconnect the radiator hose as it is being stretched to the limits and I still can't get to that one bolt because of the plate.

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/IMG_0297.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/IMG_0297.jpg.html)

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/IMG_0298.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/IMG_0298.jpg.html)

Seerlah
08-27-2013, 03:40 AM
Your engine is more than high enough to get the job done. Which bolt can't you get to. I also forgot how the AEB has the front plate on the engine. Not quite sure how that configuration is. But many have done it the way you are doing it.

TheKid84
08-27-2013, 04:12 AM
Make sure you remove the rear bolts hiding by the flywheel, Took me a hour to figure out why mine would fall of...
Shittest of shit jobs, just make sure you seal it nicely when you put it back on, i didn't the first time ;/

I would also check the oil return line from the turbo mine had cholesterol

Good luck :]

fR3ZNO
08-27-2013, 06:32 AM
Looks like I might have to disconnect the radiator hose as it is being stretched to the limits and I still can't get to that one bolt because of the plate.

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/IMG_0297.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/IMG_0297.jpg.html)

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/IMG_0298.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/IMG_0298.jpg.html)

When I dropped the oil pan on my friend's ATW A4, I ended up prying that front plate out of the way to get to the bolt. Then I just pried it back into place once I had the pan back in place.

zandrew
08-27-2013, 08:43 AM
Whats the deal with the 9" 5mm hex being needed and does this apply to the motor only when it is installed? I am gearing up for my build in the coming week and want to be prepared before hand, no surprises.

Artiemas
08-27-2013, 08:47 AM
Holy balls. The 2.8 oil pan is cake compared to this.

fR3ZNO
08-27-2013, 12:13 PM
Holy balls. The 2.8 oil pan is cake compared to this.

Word dude haha
Sooooo much easier

Seerlah
08-27-2013, 05:32 PM
Whats the deal with the 9" 5mm hex being needed and does this apply to the motor only when it is installed? I am gearing up for my build in the coming week and want to be prepared before hand, no surprises.

If the engine is out, you don't need to do this. But you have to not have your clutch assembly attached to get to the. Just take the clutch off first, then you can get to those bolts. Or place those 2 bolts on before you place the clutch on.

BirdTurbo
08-29-2013, 08:33 AM
Well I thought I could do it without removing the front clip. Started removing the a/c tensioner to get the damn plate off.

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/IMG_0299.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/IMG_0299.jpg.html)




I was wrong, a bolt on tensioner stripped away. So I had to disconnect everything to get enough room





http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/IMG_0300.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/IMG_0300.jpg.html)


http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/IMG_0301-1.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/IMG_0301-1.jpg.html)


I also found this on my radiator

How much does a new cap cost?

fR3ZNO
08-29-2013, 10:31 AM
I'm guessing you didn't try what I suggested earlier?

Did you try pounding a slightly larger torx bit into that stripped allen bolt?

BirdTurbo
08-29-2013, 11:45 AM
I was going to do it but you know. That was the first method I used but it failed, Luckily I had a kit for bolt extraction.

BirdTurbo
08-29-2013, 02:33 PM
Well I finally got the pan off and this what I find metal shavings and what seems to be a paper clip in my oil pump screen. Originally on start up I would be find on noise then after it had warmed up it would start ticking. How screwed am I and what should this college kid do.

The thin rod is in the oil pump screen as seen below.


http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/556359_10151568793970919_628230799_n.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/556359_10151568793970919_628230799_n.jpg.html)
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/IMG_0304.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/IMG_0304.jpg.html)
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/1237589_10151568794170919_1967185520_n.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/1237589_10151568794170919_1967185520_n.jpg.html)

Seerlah
08-29-2013, 04:07 PM
Spray the crap out of your oil pan with brake clean or carbon cleaner and scrub the sh*t out of it. After that, see if you can maybe tell if that piece of metal is a part of the pan. As long as your car runs fine, I would not worry too much. I know the wonder of what it is and where it came from is relevant. But don't beat yourself over it till an issue actually arises.

BirdTurbo
08-29-2013, 05:55 PM
The ticking on the top end?

what scares me is this. Since my screen was not clogged and well you know the rest.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/555418-1-8-Cam-index-alignment-marks

Seerlah
08-29-2013, 05:58 PM
Take out your CCT and inspect it.

disturbed_audi
08-29-2013, 08:49 PM
having same issue I was going to drop pan but i'm going to try 5w 40 see if its just low oil pressure... let me know what you find out with this.. i'm trying to save dropping the pan and or buying a new cct..

Seerlah
08-30-2013, 03:50 AM
You can do the diesel fuel method instead of a heavier weight. And 5w40 isn't that heavy. But the deisel method is only for like sludge and deposits. If you have things lodged in there, this technique really won't help.

courtesy of sean1.8t


drain oil and fill engine with about 1-2 quarts of diesel fuel. take out coilpacks and spark plugs as well as remove the fuel pump fuse. then crank the engine for about 10-15 seconds about every hour, 6 times. then let sit overnight(at least 12 hours). then drain diesel, and by drain i mean leave it draining for a couple hours or you can flush it with some fresh oil. then fill back up and run REGULAR non synth oil and a cheap filter for about 50ish miles and drain again to replace with a good filter and full synth.

BirdTurbo
08-30-2013, 01:28 PM
Since I moved the position of the crank to get to the fly wheel bolts. Should I crank it back to tdc whenever I do the cam chain or can I leave it as it is until I'm in the final stages of putting it back together.

Seerlah
08-30-2013, 02:06 PM
I would set the engine at TDC and do it. But you can do it how you have it now and would be fine as long as you don't remove the timing belt. Pop off the VC, place a mark on the chain and both gears on the cam to ensure an exact line up when you put it back together. Intake cam will need to come out or at least loosened enough to slip the CCT out. Exhaust cam can stay, along with timing belt untouched. Torque spec for the cam caps are 7 ft/lbs. And since you will be taking the CCT out, a new gasket would be in order there. You will need to unbolt the very first cam cap, that sits on the front of the engine. This travels along both your intake and exhaust cam. But the other cam caps on the exhaust cam will hold the cam in place, so don't worry.

disturbed_audi
08-30-2013, 11:24 PM
You can do the diesel fuel method instead of a heavier weight. And 5w40 isn't that heavy. But the deisel method is only for like sludge and deposits. If you have things lodged in there, this technique really won't help.

courtesy of sean1.8t

I didn't think I was having sludge problems to bad just maybe enough to clog screen. i'm going gto pull vc and see what it looks like, I might be doing this thanks..

BirdTurbo
09-01-2013, 10:53 AM
Crap I don't have suitable torque wrench. Also I cannot afford a good one. What should be my alternative.

Artiemas
09-01-2013, 12:16 PM
Good n' tight.

BirdTurbo
09-01-2013, 12:25 PM
Okay thanks, I should have my findings soon enough.

fR3ZNO
09-02-2013, 07:07 PM
Just don't go crazy over tightening the cam caps because there is a possibility of cracking. Just tighten until snug using a short 3/8" drive ratchet and you should be fine.

Seerlah
09-02-2013, 07:12 PM
I didn't use a torque wrench when I bolted my cam caps back after having to swap parts to my replacement head that had no cams or CCT. It's 7ft/lbs. It's not much at all. Regular 1/4" ratchet with whatever bit/socket.

BirdTurbo
09-03-2013, 07:56 PM
Okay thanks, I was worried there for a second as I did it before with my mechanic who had everything haha.

I took off the valve cover everything seems fine. No shearing or metal shaving anywhere or any severe wear. I took pictures if anyone wants to see them. I will be proceeding soon on the cam chain soon.

I also noticed the valve cover was practically spotless except where the oil cap sits

BirdTurbo
09-04-2013, 02:01 PM
I cranked clockwise to tdc and this what I got

found this leak on the exhaust side cam, how screwed am I?
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/sws.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/sws.jpg.html)

Is this perfect tdc or not because on the next picture....

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/ssdsd.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/ssdsd.jpg.html)

This is not right, how much damage should I expect. Hopefully it is good enough picture.

http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/dfsfsdfsf.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/dfsfsdfsf.jpg.html)

Tanzimur
09-04-2013, 09:31 PM
Everything looks fine... your 16 stems from one end to the other and for the cam seal is simple if you did the timing belt yet??? i just stuck a flathead screwdriver into the seal and popped it out and installed the new one but remember to oil it up a little...

BirdTurbo
09-05-2013, 06:02 PM
I count 15 in total, do you have a link to the imagine you go off of? As for the cam seals, do you just pop it off without taking out anything else? I have done this once before but I hardly remember anything as I had professional help.
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/IMG_00772.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/IMG_00772.jpg.html)

Here is a close up of the left and on the next image of the right.
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/second.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/second.jpg.html)
http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z437/James_Ramos/third.jpg (http://s1189.photobucket.com/user/James_Ramos/media/third.jpg.html)

BirdTurbo
09-06-2013, 12:19 PM
bump