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View Full Version : Swapping in AWM block w/ AEB head, also manual trans swap



Spectre1130
08-14-2013, 06:11 PM
Day one of my build. I have a 1997 A4 Quattro. I hope to make a nice work log of this all. I'm pulling out my AEB motor and auto tranny and replacing it with an AWM block with my AEB head. Also switching my transmission to manual. I have the block bored .5mm over and am going to use supertech pistons with my AEB rods on an auto AWM crank.

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130814_082013.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130814_082013.jpg.html)

The first day involved the paint for the block, and starting to put the accessories and pulleys on the block. I got stopped very fast unfortunately because I forgot to grab alot of the bolts from the junkyard when I pulled the motor. I also grabbed the wrong bracket, I got the bracket for the transverse AWM, not the longitudinal. And the biggest frustration was I forgot to get new Main Bearing Bolts. I've never re-used these bolts in previous engine builds, but has anyone else ever done it and had no problems. I don't mind paying for them, but I am needing to build this in 15 days (transferring duty stations) and waiting another 4-7 days for the bolts to be shipped is really going to slow me down. I called into the Audi dealership hoping I could buy some from them if they were in stock, which makes me ask do the 2.0 and 1.8t have the same main bearing bolts?

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130819_122918.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130819_122918.jpg.html)

Hopefully tomorrow goes alot better. I have taken more productive poops.

redline380
08-14-2013, 06:25 PM
do not reuse main bolts as they are stretch style, as are all important bolts on your car. any vw or audi dealership should be able to get them in a day or two.

Spectre1130
08-14-2013, 07:38 PM
Alrighty. I figured so much. Hopefully the stealership can get some fast.

redline380
08-14-2013, 07:45 PM
if you absolutely need them, you can always buy ARP main studs from any of a number of suppliers and have them overnighted. it will cost a ton more, but youll have them when you need them, and a stouter alternative

catbed
08-14-2013, 09:48 PM
if you absolutely need them, you can always buy ARP main studs from any of a number of suppliers and have them overnighted. it will cost a ton more, but youll have them when you need them, and a stouter alternative

Plus they are reusable so you only have to buy once.

Caffeinated
08-15-2013, 06:34 AM
The ARP main studs are really not much more expensive than stock.

Spectre1130
08-16-2013, 05:49 AM
I spent $60 at ECStuning last night for the regular bolts to be 2 day shipped. But unfortunately they don't ship Saturdays. So I won't be getting them until Monday. So it looks like no work on this Audi over the weekend. And on a side note, I picked up a 2001 A6 2.7t. It was leaking oil somewhere onto the exhaust manifold. I was planning on fixing that this weekend, but also couldn't get the parts in time.

I thought about doing ARP main studs since I already have the ARP rod bolts, and ARP head studs (looking back on it, I probably should have). But I'm not planning on a huge horsepower motor with this setup. I was mainly wanting to fix my old motor, and allow for a little more horsepower (eventually planning on going to a T28 turbo and tune with an AEM FIC and shoot for 300 whp). I did a cylinder leakdown test about a year ago and they were all pretty bad, and I keep fouling my #4 plug with alot of oil, so I decided it was time for a rebuild.

If I do any work on my motor over the weekend it will probably be very minor, like threading a bolt into a hole.. and subsequently unthreading it from the hole. Or I may grind down the end of my crank, since I'm using an auto crank with a manual tranny. Something to feel productive. Which brings me to a question. I'm going off of Biketsai's DIY http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/299543-Biketsai-s-DIY-Auto-to-Manual-Conversion and I noticed he doesn't mention anything about spacers or shims in between the crankshaft and flywheel. When I removed this crankshaft from an auto car, it had 2 1mm shims in between the crankshaft and flexplate, do I use these with the manual setup, or are they for the auto only?

Artiemas
08-16-2013, 06:03 AM
I spent $60 at ECStuning last night for the regular bolts to be 2 day shipped. But unfortunately they don't ship Saturdays. So I won't be getting them until Monday. So it looks like no work on this Audi over the weekend. And on a side note, I picked up a 2001 A6 2.7t. It was leaking oil somewhere onto the exhaust manifold. I was planning on fixing that this weekend, but also couldn't get the parts in time.

I thought about doing ARP main studs since I already have the ARP rod bolts, and ARP head studs (looking back on it, I probably should have). But I'm not planning on a huge horsepower motor with this setup. I was mainly wanting to fix my old motor, and allow for a little more horsepower (eventually planning on going to a T28 turbo and tune with an AEM FIC and shoot for 300 whp). I did a cylinder leakdown test about a year ago and they were all pretty bad, and I keep fouling my #4 plug with alot of oil, so I decided it was time for a rebuild.

If I do any work on my motor over the weekend it will probably be very minor, like threading a bolt into a hole.. and subsequently unthreading it from the hole. Or I may grind down the end of my crank, since I'm using an auto crank with a manual tranny. Something to feel productive. Which brings me to a question. I'm going off of Biketsai's DIY http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/299543-Biketsai-s-DIY-Auto-to-Manual-Conversion and I noticed he doesn't mention anything about spacers or shims in between the crankshaft and flywheel. When I removed this crankshaft from an auto car, it had 2 1mm shims in between the crankshaft and flexplate, do I use these with the manual setup, or are they for the auto only?

On the 2.7t, it's probably all of the head orieneted gaskets, but mainly the valve cover gaskets. Those will leak the most. The rest just weep oil for the most part.

Spectre1130
08-16-2013, 09:54 AM
On the 2.7t, it's probably all of the head orieneted gaskets, but mainly the valve cover gaskets. Those will leak the most. The rest just weep oil for the most part.

Thanks for the input. The guy I bought it off said the mechanic said it was the rear main seal, but I looked around on the car, and it looked like it was leaking higher.

So I bought http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C5_A6-Quattro-2.7T/Search/SiteSearch/Valve_Cover/ES259658/ last night.

I've also seen mixed reviews on the AEB rods. Some people say they are forged and the bolts are the weak link, others say the rods are not forged and are the weak link themselves. I was under the impression they were not forged, but beefy and the 20mm wrist pin helped and that the bolts were the weak part. Also will an AEB rod hold up to a well tuned 300 whp setup?

redline380
08-16-2013, 11:03 AM
Thanks for the input. The guy I bought it off said the mechanic said it was the rear main seal, but I looked around on the car, and it looked like it was leaking higher.

So I bought http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C5_A6-Quattro-2.7T/Search/SiteSearch/Valve_Cover/ES259658/ last night.

I've also seen mixed reviews on the AEB rods. Some people say they are forged and the bolts are the weak link, others say the rods are not forged and are the weak link themselves. I was under the impression they were not forged, but beefy and the 20mm wrist pin helped and that the bolts were the weak part. Also will an AEB rod hold up to a well tuned 300 whp setup?

the weak point of the rods is the neck. i am not aware of any 1.8t's that came with forged rods. maybe the tt225 did, but i still dont think so.

300awhp is pushing it for those rods. they have been snapped with stock turbos before. i personally wouldnt run anything over a frankenturbo with stock rods, although plenty of people run a 2860 on stock rods. if you are going to have the engine apart, upgrade the rods. plain and simple

Spectre1130
08-19-2013, 11:35 AM
Second day of work. Picked up the bracket from a junkyard and did as much as I could. Just waiting on my Main bolts and the block will be going together.

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130819_131840.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130819_131840.jpg.html)

Put on the AWM accessory bracket. I accidentally got a Transverse one first, which they don't work for the longitudinal. Also the drivers side motor mount bracket is different otherwise it gets in the way of the oil filter bracket. I removed the viscous fan pulley and am going to run a shorter serpentine belt with an electric fan. Almost all parts bolting onto the AWM block need to be AWM parts as far as I can see except the AC bracket, AC compressor, PS pump, and Alternator. I didn't really see anyone else say that in write-ups so I'm just throwing that out there. As I continue to build the motor I will put up a list of compatible parts between the AEB and AWM.

Caffeinated
08-19-2013, 12:05 PM
Looking good! I'm in the process of bolting on the final accessories of my 06A + AEB as well.

SGS
08-19-2013, 02:53 PM
Hey OP I know this is kinda off topic but I am stationed in Charleston SC. You wouldnt happen to be at the Navy or the Air Force base there would you?

Spectre1130
08-19-2013, 05:23 PM
Hey OP I know this is kinda off topic but I am stationed in Charleston SC. You wouldnt happen to be at the Navy or the Air Force base there would you?

Yes. I am stationed at the Naval Weapons Stations. I'm in the nuc program.

SGS
08-20-2013, 12:06 PM
Nice man. thats a hard ass carreer field. i assume you graduated from it and are going to your duty staion. If I wasn't deployed right now I'd be there balls deep helping you. I'm air force and a mechanic on the C-17s on the Air Force Base. Where you headed to? you may have seen my brilliant yellow Audi with the stupid exhaust driving around (plan on buying milltek exhaust when i get back.)

Seerlah
08-20-2013, 02:23 PM
Read earlier that you have ARP head "studs". If you have the studs, they are the wrong ones. You will mess up the threads on the block. You need ARP head "bolts" specified for the AWM (06A block).

redline380
08-20-2013, 02:24 PM
Read earlier that you have ARP head "studs". If you have the studs, they are the wrong ones. You will mess up the threads on the block. You need ARP head "bolts" specified for the AWM (06A block).
im pretty sure the studs are for 06a block only. they do make 06a bolts as well, but no 058 studs


edit- just looked at ie's website. they are selling studs for both engines

Raacerx
08-20-2013, 02:40 PM
Read earlier that you have ARP head "studs". If you have the studs, they are the wrong ones. You will mess up the threads on the block. You need ARP head "bolts" specified for the AWM (06A block).

Huh? ARP makes head studs in 10mm and 11mm.

I've got a set in my 06A block, and a set of 11mm sitting at my desk for the 058 block.

Seerlah
08-20-2013, 02:47 PM
ARP has studs for the 058 and bolts for the 06A. I'm positive about this. But I think they recently released a stud kit for the 06A. I am lead to believe IE is wrong with their description, even though they should be masters at this (just did some research and it may be ARP's info is simply wrong, and companies list in their description what ARP has for their bolts). The 058 and 06A have different thread pitches to them. 058 head bolt size is m11 while the 06A (AWM) is m10. How can they list studs for 2000+ if the 2000 is an 058 block and the 2001+ is an 06A block? I am also seeing this listed wrong on other sites.

MJM is correct and gives people fair warning. But look at the 2000+ description, then their warning in italics. You will indefinitely f*ck up your threads and basically trash the block unless you can somehow fix the threads to still carry a threshold for the proper seal. It says not to use in AEB, but look below where it only states AWM and AMB for them. ATW is an 058...2000...listed as ok to use on the top description...and you will f*ck up your threads.

http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?info=ARP_204-3902_Head_Bolt_Kit_with_Tool_for_'00-up_1.8T_Performance&products_id=3091


Huh? ARP makes head studs in 10mm and 11mm.

I've got a set in my 06A block, and a set of 11mm sitting at my desk for the 058 block.

Not sure how long ago they made studs for the 06A, but in the past there was only bolts for the 06A and studs for the 058.

edit: did a little more research, and there is still not an ARP head "bolt" for the 058. like I said, in the past it was studs for the 058 and bolts for the 06a. not sure how long the arp 06a studs have been out for. but could not have been long.

Raacerx
08-20-2013, 04:19 PM
I don't mean to photobomb the thread but: 06A block, ARP stud kit, AEB head. Been out for some time.

http://www.fototime.com/%7B3527A099-55A3-46FC-A45C-27E29A29E1E0%7D/origpict/IMG_2139A.jpg

Seerlah
08-20-2013, 04:19 PM
Not more than 2-3 years. Compared to how old this vehicle is, that is not a long time.

OP, just make sure have get the correct sized studs.

Spectre1130
08-21-2013, 06:12 AM
Nice man. thats a hard ass carreer field. i assume you graduated from it and are going to your duty staion. If I wasn't deployed right now I'd be there balls deep helping you. I'm air force and a mechanic on the C-17s on the Air Force Base. Where you headed to? you may have seen my brilliant yellow Audi with the stupid exhaust driving around (plan on buying milltek exhaust when i get back.)

I'm actually transferring to the prototype training they have next. I've completed all the school, now I'm just in hold waiting for the hands on training. I am just unsure as to whether I will have time in my next hold period where I can work on my car.

I will check the studs. What makes them different from the AEB studs? The diameter?

And I get held up yet again. The main bearing kit I bought from integrated engineering came only with the main bearings. I was under the impression it would come with the thrust washers as well. So I have to wait a few more days. Also I accidentally ordered the PCV breather line for the AEB engine and not the AWM. This is just really turning out bad so far.

Seerlah
08-21-2013, 03:02 PM
I will check the studs. What makes them different from the AEB studs? The diameter?



11mm diameter vs 10mm. Thing that sucks is you can thread the 10mm into the 11mm, thinking it is correct. Next thing you know you f*cked your threads up. It happens.

Spectre1130
08-21-2013, 06:48 PM
Will the 10mm feel a little sloppy in there? I threaded mine in and they seemed pretty snug. I will post some pics. I also put my main bearings in and set my crank in there with some assembly lube to keep my bearings clean. I am however waiting on thrust washers which will show up tomorrow. Also I loosely put the caps and bolts on but was unsure as to the order of the caps, when I took it to the machine shop he just kinda mixed them up. But I did cap one closest to the timing belt side and five closest to the flywheel.

I was however slightly more productive on my 2.7t motor today. I had a bad oil leak and replaced the valve cover gaskets, timing chain tensioner gaskets and the end cap seals. Spent about 3 hours of work on it with a friend and it seems to have fixed the problem. Got the car for $2200 because the guy thought it had a leaky rear main seal and didn't want to replace it.

ARP head studs installed
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130825_160441.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130825_160441.jpg.html)

Some bearings installed before assembly lube was added
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130821_112319.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130821_112319.jpg.html)

Crank set in place with main cap #1 loosely on
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130821_115557.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130821_115557.jpg.html)

Crank in with all caps loosely on
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130821_120555.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130821_120555.jpg.html)

Spectre1130
08-22-2013, 04:06 PM
Got the thrust washers and installed them. Torqued down mains to 48 ft-lbs plus 90 deg turn.

Tomorrow is the day for motor and transmission extraction.

Seerlah
08-22-2013, 05:32 PM
I hope you used assembly lube for those bolts. Not bearing lube but fastener lube (I used ARP assembly lube). Progress looks good.

Spectre1130
08-22-2013, 07:37 PM
I hope you used assembly lube for those bolts. Not bearing lube but fastener lube (I used ARP assembly lube). Progress looks good.

For the main bolts? I unfortunately didn't. I completely forgot. :\ I will make sure to use it on my ARP rod studs and head studs though.

Seerlah
08-22-2013, 08:11 PM
Your block is still open. Take those bolts out, get replacements, and redo them before you regret it. There was a big discussion on this before. There are Audi mechanics (real dealership mechanics) who say that they don't place assembly lube or any type of lube on the main bolts, while others say they do. Then 034 chimed into the thread and said it was an absolute must.

Spectre1130
08-23-2013, 05:52 PM
I just pulled my motor today and transmission today and started the 1 week rental of the shop. I won't be able to wait until Tuesday to get some new main bolts. As bad as it sounds and I know you will criticize for it, but I'm going to chance it. If I was able to get new bolts by Sunday I would, but UPS and Fedex don't overnight on Saturdays or Sundays. Meaning it wouldn't ship til Monday and get there Tuesday.

However when I threaded the bolts in the first time to hold the crank in overnight, I removed them and they had a little oil (not assembly lube) on them about 1/4 of the way up the threads. I didn't wipe off the oil when I installed them and torqued them, so they did have a little lubricant. And I didn't feel them bind at all when I was torquing them.

On a different note, like I said I pulled engine and tranny today. Unfortunately in the first hour of removing the front clip I dropped a pair of pliers that magically fell at the perfect angle to poke a hole in my AC condenser. So I need to pick up another one of those. Also once my motor was pulled I checked my engine mounts and they literally fell in half. So I need some new ones of those by Tuesday or so. Other than that it went all smooth, I didn't take many pictures but will list off what I did to remove it all.

1) started by removing the bumper, unhooking the battery, and draining all fluids
2) to remove the front clip, remove the four torx bolts on either side that bolt the bumper support bars on. On top near your headlights are 2 torx bolts on either side. On the side below your headlight there are also 2 more torx bolts on either end. Then unhook the various wires including your headlight wires, unbolt the power steering cooler, either unbolt or disconnect the A/T cooler lines, drain and unhook the top and bottom radiator hoses, either unbolt or disconnect the AC condenser, disconnect the rubber elbows that go from turbo to hard pre-intercooler pipe and elbow leading to intercooler.
3) unbolt the driveshaft from the transmission, 6 allen bolts
4) at this point, I removed the head with turbo manifold, turbo, and intake manifold since I will be using it all on my new block. To do this: remove coil packs, remove valve cover, remove fuel rail with fuel injectors in it, unhook charge pipe to throttle body hose, unhook the heater hose connection from the back of the head, remove coolant line from the metal coolant line to coolant overflow tank, remove the coolant line from metal coolant pipe to the filter adapter, remove the air box and air intake system, unbolt the turbo from the exhaust, remove bottom turbo cooling line from the block, unbolt the turbo oil drain from oil pan, disconnect the turbo oil line from the crank case breather/oil filter adapter, disconnect vacuum lines, unhook wires, unbolt the head.
5) unbolt the CV axles from the transmission now, 6 torx bolts each axle.
6) at this point I disconnected any wire or hose leading to the block from the engine bay that was not already disconnected
7) go inside the car and remove the shift selector nob, remove the center console, unbolt 4 nuts that bolt the shifter assembly to the body, remove any wires or cables attached to the assembly inside the car, push the assembly down through the hole
8) unbolted the bracket to engine mount nut on either side of the engine, removed the bolt from the transmission bracket to transmission mount
9) hooked up the engine hoist and lifted motor and transmission out. When I did it, I lifted it up until it was at a steep angle with the block higher than transmission, checked for any wires still attached and pulled the motor and tranny out.

If I missed something please chime in, this is all from memory of today. It took me about 8 hours of work (7 hours working 1 hour of lunch and smoking)

Preparing to remove the front clip
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130823_130446.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130823_130446.jpg.html)

Block and transmission removed from car
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130823_194811.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130823_194811.jpg.html)
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130823_194728.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130823_194728.jpg.html)

A1 A2 German
08-23-2013, 07:09 PM
That side shot is what I've been looking for forever!

Talk to me about the AC.

What ac bracket did you bolt to the 06A block, the 06A or the 058, or are both the same?

Are you able to use your 058 ac compressor on this 06A block in any way or fashion?

------------------

Drivers side block motor mount bracket, to line up to AEB preface motor mount, use the O6A or 058 mount off the 06A block?

Spectre1130
08-23-2013, 10:22 PM
That side shot is what I've been looking for forever!

Talk to me about the AC.

What ac bracket did you bolt to the 06A block, the 06A or the 058, or are both the same?

Are you able to use your 058 ac compressor on this 06A block in any way or fashion?

------------------

Drivers side block motor mount bracket, to line up to AEB preface motor mount, use the O6A or 058 mount off the 06A block?

I am using the 06A bracket with my 058 compressor supposing they work. They look exactly the same to me, but I should know more when I get to work on it Sunday.

I looked at the drivers side motor mount brackets and they look different, I can try to snap some pictures on Sunday. I'm just unsure if the passenger ones are the same or not.

If you need me to snap any other pictures just holler at me, and I will try to remember when I work on it.

A1 A2 German
08-23-2013, 11:14 PM
Alright, the AC issue has me kinda relieved as I refuse to vent, open or crack open my system to swap compressors.

I do know, you must use one of each...or others are saying.....one doesn't work. However, when they say one works one doesn't, I don't know what orientation they are stating that from, having swapping the 058's over to the 06A block, or keeping the 06A's on from the get go. So, this leaves to fact, you use 1) 058 motor mount bracket and 1)06A motor mount bracket. Yet, I do not know what side each is on.

I believe, both a 058 and 06A passenger side bracket are the very same part #. So people are swapping the drivers side, yet I do not know what they are using on that side. However not proven fact yet folks.

Spectre1130
08-24-2013, 11:20 AM
I will tell you there is a definite difference between the driver side brackets shape. But I didn't try them on the opposite blocks. The 06A one has a relief cut into it to fit around a part that must be bolted onto the motor. The 058 does not have that relief.

Also ECStuning has the passenger side brackets listed as the same for the motors, and the drivers side is engine specific. http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/SiteSearch/Engine_Bracket/

EDIT: Today after working on the car for a few hours it looks like: Drivers side motor mount brackets are not interchangeable, Passenger side brackets are interchangeable, You have to use the AEB A/C bracket on the 06A motor to use your AEB A/C compressor, alternator will bolt up to either bracket, and power steering pumps are different between the AEB and AWM, and mine will not bolt up to the AWM bracket. However the AEB accessory bracket will bolt to the 06A block, but it will not allow you to attach the thermostat housing. You could probably cut a relief into the AEB bracket so that it will not interfere, then you could use your AEB power steering pump.

Caffeinated
08-26-2013, 06:42 AM
You really decided to use your old main bolts? So wait...you went to the trouble of doing head studs, but then used your old already stretched main bolts? I'm failing to understand the logic here.

redline380
08-26-2013, 06:44 AM
You really decided to use your old main bolts? So wait...you went to the trouble of doing head studs, but then used your old already stretched main bolts? I'm failing to understand the logic here.

check post 7. it says he bought new bolts from ecs. I hope hes using them

Spectre1130
08-26-2013, 07:32 PM
You really decided to use your old main bolts? So wait...you went to the trouble of doing head studs, but then used your old already stretched main bolts? I'm failing to understand the logic here.

Yes, I bought new ones since I wanted to do a decent rebuild and not skimp and risk breaking it. There are some things I will skimp on with this build but not important things.

I put my pistons and rods in today, bolted in my oil pump, cleaned up my cylinder head and replaced the gaskets and seals in it, it is ready to be torqued down, but I'm waiting to get a dust cover plate that has the TDC mark for the crankshaft pulley. I was planning on doing alot more but I had to help my friend replace the U-joint and spark plugs in his Nissan Frontier and then my other friend needed help with his B7 A4 that he was putting coil overs on. I snapped a few pictures today but will wait till I do more work tomorrow and post all those pictures.

BTW I thought I read somewhere that someone said when you do the AEB head on the AWM block you use all the AWM timing components. My friend rounded off the timing belt tensioner roller nut so I had to drill off the bolt head to remove it, only to find that the AWM one I bought doesn't bolt up due to it having a smaller diameter bolt hole. So I need to buy an AEB timing belt tensioner roller now. So if anyone else is thinking about doing AEB head and AWM block, use the AWM timing components on the block and AEB timing components on the head.

EDIT: It looks like ECStuning sells the stud for the timing belt tensioner roller for the AWM. http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Search/SiteSearch/Timing_Roller/ES279996/ Is this the same thread pitch as the AEB bolt, allowing me to use the AWM tensioner roller?

Seerlah
08-26-2013, 08:12 PM
Wrong. You need to use the awm cam gear. The cam gear needs to have exactly twice the amount of teeth than the crank gear. You also need to know the awm has 2 types of rollers. That is why they have the vin split. One has a stud use, and the other has a larger bolt with washer. I actually took that stud out and run with the early AWM timing belt kit (cylinder head is from late AWM). I like it better. And not sure if it was my goof or what, but I ran the late kit on an early block (replacement block i built i did not know was an early AWM) and my timing skipped 2 teeth over time. Not sure if was an underlying issue or the result of running the wrong kit.

walky_talky20
08-26-2013, 08:44 PM
The AWM vin split doesn't matter. You can use whichever kit you want, early or late (so long as you also get the special stud if you want to run the "late" version).

To answer the OP's question, yes that special stud has the same threads. You can thread that into *any* 1.8T head. What you cannot do is run an AEB roller with your 06A block. That's not going to work due to belt offset differences.

Spectre1130
08-27-2013, 09:23 AM
Wrong. You need to use the awm cam gear. The cam gear needs to have exactly twice the amount of teeth than the crank gear. You also need to know the awm has 2 types of rollers. That is why they have the vin split. One has a stud use, and the other has a larger bolt with washer. I actually took that stud out and run with the early AWM timing belt kit (cylinder head is from late AWM). I like it better. And not sure if it was my goof or what, but I ran the late kit on an early block (replacement block i built i did not know was an early AWM) and my timing skipped 2 teeth over time. Not sure if was an underlying issue or the result of running the wrong kit.

Okay, thankyou for the information. Thanks for clearing it up for me. I'm trying to order the stud from either a dealer or parts store, we will see how that goes, but I may get one from a jy motor.

It doesn't look like I'm going to get a whole lot done on the motor today. The Navy switched my holding period job to one that I work every day. So here are a few from yesterday.
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130826_112940.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130826_112940.jpg.html)
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130826_113954.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130826_113954.jpg.html)

redline380
08-27-2013, 09:43 AM
you aren't seriously using stock rods are you?

Seerlah
08-27-2013, 05:29 PM
Yeah, that's kind of crazy. Especially with all the other upgraded parts. Spend the extra $350 on the rods.

Spectre1130
08-27-2013, 06:21 PM
I'm not looking to make more than 300hp. I'm running the same tune, same everything as my previous motor, just a different block with lighter weight forged pistons.

I just wanted to put in a new motor because mine was losing compression and old. I wanted the newer block because it seems simpler for me and the parts were easier to come by in the junkyard. I also wanted to change my transmission to manual because I hate auto's. I'm not trying to make a race car, I'm well aware that new rods would make my motor way better and capable of handling alot more power. However I'm not looking for alot more power because I don't have any use or time to race. If I want to eventually run more power I can change out my rods.

This project was focused more on getting a rebuilt engine put into my car, not a high performance race fuel breathing dragon in a heavy ass sedan. So spending $350 on nice rods is spending $350 I don't need to right now. Sorry to act all annoyed just please don't try to tell me to buy new rods when I don't need them. If I needed them I would have bought them. I know you guys are much more experienced with Audi's than me, but I'm just saying I don't need forged rods right now for my power goals. I do regret not getting forged rods in the first place since when I do want to make power I will have to open up my motor, but I have a deadline to have this built by, and am too far in that I do not have the time to order rods, wait for them to get here, pull apart my motor, and install them. Thankyou for the input though, I do know you are trying to help.

Seerlah
08-27-2013, 06:26 PM
We are saying that as more of a do it right or do it twice sort of thing. But your car and do whatever you want. Though if the mod bug ever does bite you, this is going to be one thing that you def wish you would have done. Not fun pulling an engine twice because you felt at the time it was not necessary to place in forged rods. But really, enjoy your car and do what you want. It's yours [cool].

Spectre1130
08-27-2013, 06:30 PM
We are saying that as more of a do it right or do it twice sort of thing. But your car and do whatever you want. Though if the mod bug ever does bite you, this is going to be one thing that you def wish you would have done. Not fun pulling an engine twice because you felt at the time it was not necessary to place in forged rods. But really, enjoy your car and do what you want. It's yours [cool].

Thankyou. I do understand why you guys are telling me to buy rods, it would've been smart when I was ordering parts, but I don't have the time now. Like I said I do still respect your guys' advice since you are more knowledgeable on these cars than I. I know someday down the line it will bite me in my ass, but I may have sold the car by then. Being in the Navy (almost finished with my year and a half of training) and being married, I'm not going to have a whole lot of time to play with cars and race around once I deploy and we have kids. Sadly enough this just may be my last big car fun for the next at least 6 years (probably more).

By the way, a few more pictures from the little work I did today. I had trouble getting the engine timed. But I got all the right parts now and it should roll smoothly now.
I torqued down the head, got all the timing done, torqued down the camshafts, and grabbed a few missing parts from the jy that I needed.

Replaced the chain tensioner gasket, replaced the rear plug behind the intake camshaft, and put the gasket material on the front camshaft cap.
I torqued the ARP head studs to 78 ft-lbs. The Bentley said 30 ft-lbs and then 180 deg turn that brought them to about 72 ft-lbs, I then torqued them a little extra up to the 78. Does that sound right?
Took the camshaft bolts to 7 ft-lbs like the Bentley said.
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130827_191852.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130827_191852.jpg.html)
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130827_191904.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130827_191904.jpg.html)

A1 A2 German
08-27-2013, 06:34 PM
I'm surprised no one's mentioned anything about the oem rods.

redline380
08-27-2013, 06:37 PM
I'm surprised no one's mentioned anything about the oem rods.

are you for realz?


you aren't seriously using stock rods are you?


Yeah, that's kind of crazy. Especially with all the other upgraded parts. Spend the extra $350 on the rods.

Spectre1130
08-27-2013, 06:41 PM
I'm surprised no one's mentioned anything about the oem rods.

LOL

A1 A2 German
08-27-2013, 06:47 PM
Sarcasm, it's what's for dinner.

Seerlah
08-27-2013, 06:48 PM
7 ft/lbs is the right torque spec for the cam caps. The head bolts seem right, but I did mine different. 3 sequences instead of 2. 30 ft/lbs, 90 degree turn, then another 90. But it is the same as you stated. ARP does not supply their own torque spec sheet? Not sure if the torque may be different than OEM.

redline380
08-27-2013, 06:52 PM
as for the head studs, you need to use arp specs for those. you gotta follow them pretty exact too as I think some guys have had problems. if the 78 ft lbs is what they call for, than so it is. just do what the arp says.

as ofr the rods, sounds like we should've told you earlier so you had time to order them. if your power goal is 300 at the crank, it wont be a factor but its not like it would hurt. stock turbos have snapped stock rods. but like you said, its too late for you now so just keep the power and torque levels safe and youll be fine. its just the first time ive ever seen a forum member rebuild an engine without upgrading the rods. swap those out for forged units, and the skys the limit for hp

Spectre1130
08-27-2013, 06:54 PM
7 ft/lbs is the right torque spec for the cam caps. The head bolts seem right, but I did mine different. 3 sequences instead of 2. 30 ft/lbs, 90 degree turn, then another 90. But it is the same as you stated. ARP does not supply their own torque spec sheet? Not sure if the torque may be different than OEM.

I didn't see one. I will check again to be sure. I also did mine in 3 stages, that's how I've always done head bolts/studs. But the Bentley stated 2 stages.

redline380
08-27-2013, 06:55 PM
no I remember what people have had problems with. you need to heat cycle the studs. retorquing will be necessary after 500 miles or so

Seerlah
08-27-2013, 06:55 PM
Just drop in rods makes your engine 600hp capable. That is all I have done to my block, and am in the process of placing a 530hp turbo on there. I don't race either but I like to enjoy my vehicle, especially when you have the power there when you need or want it.

Spectre1130
08-27-2013, 07:08 PM
Just drop in rods makes your engine 600hp capable. That is all I have done to my block, and am in the process of placing a 530hp turbo on there. I don't race either but I like to enjoy my vehicle, especially when you have the power there when you need or want it.

That's impressive. I may do rods eventually. But I cant wait more than a few days for new rods. I need to have this finished and out of the shop by Saturday. Maybe in a month or so, I will pull it in the shop and drop the pan and pull the head and do rods. I don't need to pull the motor and a job like that I could probably knock out in a few days.

I'm also wary as to whether this motor will work well. I would hate to blow up an extra $350 or more in a few days because of something I didn't do right since I'm unfamiliar with this motor. I'm trying to use mainly the Bentley, a Chiltons manual, and other peoples builds for my assembly, but I know how easy it is to screw something up. So if the motor works well for a month or so with the power I'm running now, then money and time willing, I will think of doing rods.

redline380
08-27-2013, 07:21 PM
If your unfamiliar with assembly of the motor, now is the time to ask. Ask as many and as specific questions as you want. We want your engine to blow up as much as you do

Seerlah
08-27-2013, 07:57 PM
Yeah, if you have questions you could simply ask on here. These are the guys who help me when I have issues, misunderstandings, confusion, questions, etc. And I do the same for them. People don't know it all, so we help each others out.

Caffeinated
08-28-2013, 06:34 AM
ARP recommends 3 equal stages to 80 ft/lbs, no 90* or 180*, following the factory/Bentley bolt sequence.

You should have received instructions with your ARP kit, they even supply the factory bolt sequence.

90/180 is typically for yield/stretch bolts. Don't know any ARP stuff that recommends that.

walky_talky20
08-28-2013, 07:55 AM
I don't mean to be the Belt Tensioner Police (BTP) here, but are you sure this gap is set correctly? It looks a little bit large to me. The eccentric looks to be at nearly the fully let-out position, as if it was not adjusted:

http://i1330.photobucket.com/albums/w575/walky_talky21/tensioner-gap_zps5a5d3a2b.png

Spectre1130
08-28-2013, 06:08 PM
I don't mean to be the Belt Tensioner Police (BTP) here, but are you sure this gap is set correctly? It looks a little bit large to me. The eccentric looks to be at nearly the fully let-out position, as if it was not adjusted:

http://i1330.photobucket.com/albums/w575/walky_talky21/tensioner-gap_zps5a5d3a2b.png

No, I'm not sure if it's adjusted right. I will check it tomorrow. I think I forgot to adjust it when I put it on.

And thankyou for the help so far. I will try to ask questions if I need to, but I've just received alot of hate before on forums when asking dumb questions about a car I'm not too familiar with. So I usually prefer to try to figure it out. I'm pretty sure everything so far is assembled correctly (minus the tensioner adjustment), when I go in to work on it tomorrow I will make a list of anything I am unsure of.

And thanks Caffeinated I will take them an extra 2 ft-lbs so they are up to 80.

EDIT: Thought of a couple of questions. Do I use the CPS from the AEB or the AWM? I don't know if the AWM has the same size of plug. I do know that the AEB CPS uses a smaller screw, so if it can work I can always just drill out the bolt hole in the CPS allowing it to bolt up.

What thread and size is the hole for the turbo coolant to block? I don't have a nipple screwed in there and will need to buy one. Does anyone know off the top of their head?

redline380
08-28-2013, 06:20 PM
You need the awm cps and cam window. Don't forget that part. As fot the coolant port, pretty sure it's 14x1.5 thread

Spectre1130
08-28-2013, 06:38 PM
You need the awm cps and cam window. Don't forget that part. As fot the coolant port, pretty sure it's 14x1.5 thread

Will they plug right into an AEB harness? Also is the cam window the circular piece inside of the housing that the cam position sensor reads off of? And if I change the cam window should I also change the cam pos sensor to the AWM one?

Seerlah
08-28-2013, 06:42 PM
m14x1.5 is correct

redline380
08-28-2013, 06:48 PM
I actually think aeb and awm cps are the same. Its just a hall sensor. Its the cam window that is critical.

And I was confused earlier. You need the aeb cam window. Forgot you car is an aeb ecu. This is critical! Sorry

Yes, the window is the little metal piece the cps reads. Keep the aeb cam window and cps. You'll be golden.

Spectre1130
08-28-2013, 07:01 PM
Awesome, thankyou for the help guys, hopefully I get the motor all together tomorrow. I just painted the valve cover and intake manifold.

All that needs to be done is put on the valve cover, intake manifold, a few hoses here and there, adjust tensioner, rear main seal, grind the crankshaft, put on oil pan, flywheel, clutch, then transmission bolted on.

Hopefully I can knock that all out tomorrow if I get off work early. And maybe I can start on running the clutch lines and putting in the pedals.

BTW when I was asking if I use AWM cps or AEB cps, I was referring to the crank position sensor. This is also a Hall sensor, but the bolt hole is a different size, and I was unsure if it would work. It looks like it is the same distance from the crankshaft plate.

And when I assembled the painted parts I realized how retarded my blue hoses would look on this motor...

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130829_181814.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130829_181814.jpg.html)

Spectre1130
08-30-2013, 05:42 PM
Today went well. I ground down the crankshaft mounted the flywheel, clutch, transmission, put the transmission brackets on, ran the clutch hard lines (without having to remove the master cylinder or brake booster), put on clutch master cylinder, and put on almost all of the pedal assembly then ran into a problem.

Apparently since I picked up the pedals from a DBW car the brake and clutch pedal are different than my DBC ones. I got the manual brake pedal in, but am having a hard time putting the clutch pedal in. I need to either remove my steering column or remove the relay bracket to be able to slide the pedal in, but then I'm not even sure if it will clear the steering column once placed in. I then also have to use some sort of spring to bring it back, because the one that was supposed to go with it can't go on because the DBC bracket doesn't have a little mounting point for it. This may be time for the creative side of me to come out.

But here are some pics of today I will get some more up tomorrow.

Crank ground down with flywheel bolted on, and input shaft bearing going in.
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130830_133015.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130830_133015.jpg.html)

Close up of bearing in flywheel
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130830_133038.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130830_133038.jpg.html)

Single mass Valeo flywheel mounted
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130830_133130.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130830_133130.jpg.html)

Rigid Valeo clutch mounted with alignment tool inserted.
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130830_134616.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130830_134616.jpg.html)

redline380
08-30-2013, 05:49 PM
You'd use the aeb crank sensor. You need to keep all aeb sensors with your aeb ecu. This includes knock sensors too

walky_talky20
08-30-2013, 06:10 PM
And probably that oil pressure sender that I caught in the last photo. That'll be annoying to change later, lol.

Did we get the belt tensioner adjustment settled? It still looks a little sketchy to me.

Spectre1130
08-31-2013, 07:15 AM
And probably that oil pressure sender that I caught in the last photo. That'll be annoying to change later, lol.

Did we get the belt tensioner adjustment settled? It still looks a little sketchy to me.

So I loosened it and tried to compress it but it was really hard, so I tightened it back up. I went on the forums and saw what you and others had said about compressing it how it takes a long time. I was going to get the motor and transmission into the car then deal with it. So how do I know if it is tensioned correctly, are there marks? I saw some lines on the cylinder head next to it, but didn't know what they meant.

Spectre1130
09-02-2013, 09:18 AM
What are these two sensors, is one oil pressure and one oil temperature?

https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&ik=0d2aa5e9e3&view=att&th=140df754b1b7a2a7&attid=0.1&disp=thd&realattid=1445082985471480476-1&zw

Seerlah
09-02-2013, 09:25 AM
Pics aren't working. And as stated, you need to use the proper sensors. The AWM CPS connector is different than the AEB. As for the pedals, you need to send a PM to someone who did the DBC to DBW swap or make a thread specifically pertaining to that inquiry. People won't know you need assistance there unless they actually read through this thread. The tensioner isn't hard at all to compress. You just need to place it in a c-clamp and wind it down, then place the pin back in. I've done it multiple times without issue.

Spectre1130
09-02-2013, 10:40 AM
Pics aren't working. And as stated, you need to use the proper sensors. The AWM CPS connector is different than the AEB. As for the pedals, you need to send a PM to someone who did the DBC to DBW swap or make a thread specifically pertaining to that inquiry. People won't know you need assistance there unless they actually read through this thread. The tensioner isn't hard at all to compress. You just need to place it in a c-clamp and wind it down, then place the pin back in. I've done it multiple times without issue.

I'm using the proper sensors for the AEB. I was just wondering what the 2 sensors in the oil filter bracket are.

Regarding the pedals. I'm using the brake and clutch pedal from a DBW car so they are shaped a little differently. I'm still keeping my car DBC. I was having a hard time getting the various interior parts to fit because the shifter assembly, pedals, clutch master cylinder, and such must have come from a B6 A4 or a Passat. I have gotten everything to bolt up except the clutch pedal because I didn't have time to address it yet. But that night when I realized I had the parts that weren't going to straight bolt on I started brainstorming on how I could make them fit and work.

Thanks I will try a c-clamp on the tensioner.

This was the picture I was trying to show. I uploaded it through photobucket this time, so hopefully it works.
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/IMG_20130831_123437.jpg

Seerlah
09-02-2013, 11:32 AM
Had your thread mixed with a different one, thinking you were converting to AWM and DBW. Why are you switching out the pedals? And as far as I know, the 2 sensors on the AEB oil cooler housing is the oil pressure switch and oil temp sensor. The one to the right is def the oil pressure switch, so I assume the other is the oil temp sender.

Spectre1130
09-02-2013, 03:41 PM
Okay thankyou. I have to switch pedals because I'm swapping auto to manual. So I need to switch out the brake pedal and add a clutch pedal.

Motor is in today. I finally had 2 hours to work on it.

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130901_160225.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130901_160225.jpg.html)

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130904_183108.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130904_183108.jpg.html)

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130904_183117.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130904_183117.jpg.html)

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130905_193543.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130905_193543.jpg.html)

Spectre1130
09-14-2013, 03:23 PM
I've got everything finished today. Started the car and took it for the break in drive http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm. Made it about 1 mile and noticed alot of coolant leakage. Apparently I am leaking coolant from the fitting that goes into the block from the turbo coolant line. Also leaking somehow from the oil filter cooler. Found a pinhole in one of the lines to the oil cooler, and found a loose hose. So I parked it back at the shop and will hopefully fix all the coolant leaks tomorrow.

I will have some pictures and a video of first start posted tonight or tomorrow.

BTW on Biketsai's DIY the park relay situation was slightly different. On my car the park relay was located in relay position 4. He said you have to bridge the horizontal connections, but I had to bridge the vertical ones. I can take some pics of my Bentley pages so it makes more sense.

Seerlah
09-14-2013, 04:14 PM
Biketsai has an AWM vehicle, with AWM wiring. You just have the AWM engine.

Spectre1130
09-14-2013, 04:22 PM
Biketsai has an AWM vehicle, with AWM wiring. You just have the AWM engine.

That explains it. Well I will try to post some differences between the two and also the parts I used to make everything work so if anyone else does the AWM block into the older A4's they won't be completely confused. I will have to do an inventory of the parts tomorrow. But pretty much everything that bolts to the 06A block has to be for a 06A. The only 058 parts I used were the passenger side motor mount bracket, A/C bracket, and the A/C compressor itself. On the head everything stayed AEB except the cam gear, and the valve cover because I wanted the top vent for a catch can setup.

The transmission I used pretty much everything Biketsai used. The only difference I noticed when doing the swap was the relay position and connection bridges, but that was due to his newer A4.

For the pedals you must use the older style DBC clutch master cylinder and clutch pedal. And you can use either the DBW or DBC brake pedal.

EDIT: Crappy video my friend took I will get a better one up soon. I had already primed the oil pump before starting.

http://youtu.be/auHEg9gkTZI

Spectre1130
09-29-2013, 08:08 AM
The car is finally completed. For the past 2 weeks I was trying to solve a problem where it would not go into reverse. Got it solved, and it runs and drives great. It's pretty dang fun, and I definitely enjoy the manual to that terrible auto transmission.

I will try to get some finished pictures up soon. Unfortunately my bumper skin broke so I will need to get a new one. So it's faceless right now.

Still need to make a shift boot.
http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130929_111419.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130929_111419.jpg.html)

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/qq128/Spectre1130/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130929_111558.jpg (http://s440.photobucket.com/user/Spectre1130/media/Audi%20Engine%20and%20Tranny/IMG_20130929_111558.jpg.html)

Seerlah
09-29-2013, 06:47 PM
Congrats!

gmx
09-29-2013, 09:01 PM
Wow, nice!
I thought it was certainly more work to fit an 06A motor in 058 car, you made it look easy.

Did you end up just drilling the block to make the CPS (crank pos) fit?

Spectre1130
09-30-2013, 01:10 PM
Wow, nice!
I thought it was certainly more work to fit an 06A motor in 058 car, you made it look easy.

Did you end up just drilling the block to make the CPS (crank pos) fit?

Thanks! It wasn't terribly hard once I had all the parts.

For the CPS, I just drilled out the hole in the plastic part on the CPS, allowing me to put a bigger bolt through it. The hole for the actual sensor itself is the same size and same distance from the crankshaft. Just the bolt hole on the 058 was smaller than on the 06A.

Also does anyone have a spare 034 Snub mount bracket for the AWM? Mine is for the AEB.

gmx
09-30-2013, 06:17 PM
Maybe I missed it, since the thermostat housing and waterpump design is different, did you end up using any hard lines or coolant hoses from the AWM motor?

Spectre1130
10-01-2013, 08:44 AM
Maybe I missed it, since the thermostat housing and waterpump design is different, did you end up using any hard lines or coolant hoses from the AWM motor?

My bad, I didn't say. Since they are different I had to use the lower coolant hose for the AWM motor. I also used the lower hard coolant line for the AWM. I used the coolant lines from the AWM oil filter cooler as well.

Kyüshutsu
10-01-2013, 01:39 PM
Nice work on the build man. My buddy and I just did a plain Jane OEM AWM engine swap to make a non running car function. That was a ton of work in itself. Respect for the results.

Spectre1130
10-01-2013, 02:49 PM
Thanks!

Hey btw I was driving it today, parked it and came back an hour later and all my coolant was on the ground. Its been fine for about 3 days not leaking even one drop. It looks like it is leaking from the oil filter cooler. I opened the coolant tank and it started streaming out from around the cooler. Now correct me if I'm wrong but the cooler should be sealed as long as the two coolant lines are hooked to it, have there ever been issues with it bursting at the seam? I don't think there is any coolant getting into my oil.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/images/1.8t_oil_cooler_w_O-ring.jpg

This is the culprit and I'm pretty sure its not leaking from where the hoses attach to it, and know its not leaking from where the hoses attach to the hard line.

Unfortunately I won't be able to dig into it until the weekend, so I was just looking for advice at this point.

BTW I'm already bored with this amount of power. I shoulda done the forged rods so I could start getting parts together for my T28 turbo build... :(

gmx
10-02-2013, 02:17 AM
The seam has failed before to let it leak into oil or external of the unit around the seams. I've never seen/heard it burst like you're saying though.
Hopefully a replacement does the trick

Spectre1130
10-06-2013, 08:48 AM
I replaced it with another one I had sitting around. When I looked at it, it didn't seem to have any holes, I filled it with water and tried to see if any would drip out but none did. It's a mystery to me why it leaked so bad, but the replacement one is working fine.

Spectre1130
10-30-2013, 03:46 PM
Apparently the Intercooler cross tube is different. I got a new snub mount bracket from 034 for the AWM motor, it bolts up to my motor, but now the snub mount is off by about 2 inches. I looked up on ECStuning and there are different part numbers for the AEB and AWM cross tube.

The cross tube from the AWM passat fit my car perfectly.

Spectre1130
10-26-2015, 01:18 AM
We are saying that as more of a do it right or do it twice sort of thing. But your car and do whatever you want. Though if the mod bug ever does bite you, this is going to be one thing that you def wish you would have done. Not fun pulling an engine twice because you felt at the time it was not necessary to place in forged rods. But really, enjoy your car and do what you want. It's yours [cool].

So here I am 2 years later, the mod bug is nibbling at me. I've been pricing parts for a T28 turbo upgrade, including SCAT rods that I should have purchased and installed 2 years ago.

When I go in to replace the rods, I was wondering if I should change out a few things: (I've only put maybe 10,000 miles tops on this engine)

-The bearings on my rods when I put in the forged rods? I'm leaning towards yes, just because I did all that work to take it apart so might as replace them.
-While I'm at it I'm debating if I should change out my main bolts to ARP main studs and the main bearings to a high quality coated bearing?
-Should I hone my cylinders?
-Should I replace all the bottom end seals as well?

However if all I do is rods and rod bearings I won't have to pull the motor, and it will be alot faster. Advice?

ray4624
10-26-2015, 05:26 AM
It will be faster to pull engine.

You should replace Rod/main bearings but glyco or equivalent are fine.

Lower seals are always a good idea to replace especially if the engine is out.

You won't need arp head studs/main bolts with the power you are looking at

Can't tell you about honing the block. Depends on what it looks like.


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Spectre1130
10-27-2015, 12:15 AM
It will be faster to pull engine.

You should replace Rod/main bearings but glyco or equivalent are fine.

Lower seals are always a good idea to replace especially if the engine is out.

You won't need arp head studs/main bolts with the power you are looking at

Can't tell you about honing the block. Depends on what it looks like.


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I understand why it would be faster to pull the motor if I did all the other bearings, but with only 10k miles on the build I shouldn't need to pull it.

If I just did the rods and rod bearings it would be a long days work, but doing the seals and other bearings would take a few days of work. I understand it being worth it if I did pull the motor, but should I really do all that work if the motor is still relatively freshly built?

I have ARP head studs, I was thinking of getting the main studs if I did the main bearings. Since I would be replacing the main bolts anyways, might as well spend an extra bit to get sturdier and reusable items.

I was thinking I might have to hone it because, I thought that the rings and cylinder walls formed their own grooves together, so if I pulled a piston it would technically need the rings to be exactly aligned how they were before when it goes back in. Or don't worry because it will just do it again when I start it up?

And how much (ball-park) power do you think I would be making for maxing out a T28. It has a .86 A/R turbine housing and a 49 trim compressor wheel. I was hoping to be sitting at 350 awhp. Should I be looking for a larger turbo?

ray4624
10-27-2015, 02:34 AM
A t28 is just smaller than a 2871r correct? That should put you right around 300whp.

If you are unbolting the mains I don't see why you wouldn't do bearings. It's literally under 100 dollars for Rod, main and thrust bearings with elring main bolts. I've never really seen anyone do the in car rod swap but if that's what you want to do then go for it.

Also remember the arp stuff has way different torque Specs than stock.


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Spectre1130
10-27-2015, 02:39 AM
A t28 is just smaller than a 2871r correct? That should put you right around 300whp.

If you are unbolting the mains I don't see why you wouldn't do bearings. It's literally under 100 dollars for Rod, main and thrust bearings with elring main bolts. I've never really seen anyone do the in car rod swap but if that's what you want to do then go for it.

Also remember the arp stuff has way different torque Specs than stock.


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I think this one is smaller than the 2871r. Maybe I will go with a t3 housing and something larger.

I guess you are right, I should just pull the motor and do the extra work for the bearings and such since I will already be there.

Yeah I remember the ARP being different when I did the head studs, but thanks for the reminder. I will do another build thread when I have all the parts and such. But that is for a year from now probably. I like to plan things out far in advance.

Spectre1130
01-12-2017, 07:01 PM
Question. I'm rebuilding my head and am wondering what I should do to it. I have leaky valves so I'm taking them to a machine shop to get checked for runout. If they are fine I am going to just lap them back in. My car died a couple days ago, hence how I discovered the bad valves, I figured while I'm fixing the head I might just make it ready for my upcoming build. I really don't like to spend more money than I need to, but I also want to have a somewhat reliable build.

Keep in mind my head has nearly 200k miles on it. Here are the questions:
-Should I replace valve springs?
-If my valve guides still meet tolerances should I replace them anyways since they are so old?
-Should I just go ahead and replace my exhaust valves with supertechs?
-Should I replace my CCT?
-Should I replace my timing chain?

My build is going to be with a T3/T04E 6063 turbo, shooting for 350-380 bhp.
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