Clear Bra protection.....yay or nay

[stlcity]

I have a 13 Estoril Blue PP+. Was wondering how many of u have done it. I drive a lot of highway miles. Worried about the blue paint; chips will show more I think.

[coolwater]

I did just the front bumper with venture shield.

Winter will be the true test, but so far it's fine and you can't really tell it's there.
I might opticoat or spray on bra the whole hood later as I don't want to see the line.
Much cheaper than doing the whole hood in protection film.

-cW

[tph1207]

It is a definite YES!

[SHR]

Don't leave home without it, in fact I wish I did my entire car on day one and will do so on my next.

[MVR 155]

Xpel film here, very glad I did, hardly visible at all and offers great protection.

[danmarsh50]

I've had several clear bra installs on different vehicles. Never regretted having it done, especially on vehicles that I drive during the winter months. SunTek on my B8, 3M bras on everything else. I'd recommend either.

[BKS45]

I have the entire front bumper, headlights and half of the hood protected - really one of the best decisions you can make on a car IMO.

[focusaudi]

yes yes yes yes, it's an insurance policy on your paint.. with only one premium!

[stactum]

Xpel ultimate full front coverage. Very happy. Also got Xpel sealer for film.
My old car had full front chipped so I decided not to take chances with S4.

Also I do like the fact how easy dirt and bugs come off Xpel.

[Wilbur]

If you do it make sure you do entire panels. No matter what anyone says you WILL see that line. I can't get past the waxing plastic thing once its wrapped.

[shonseb]

Do you remember all the chips on the front of my car?

http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lxuv0i7vFH1qaee3oo1_400.gif

[jackal15]

I have the entire front bumper, headlights and half of the hood protected - really one of the best decisions you can make on a car IMO.

+1 Exact same but I have 25% of hood covered. It's a must especially in areas where you see a ton of salt and sand...oh, like the northeast.

[mcoomer]

Yes, yes, a thousand times yes. I did full front coverage with Xpel Ultimate and also did the rear bumper and the panel behind the rear wheels.

Mike

[dparm]

I would definitely do it. My S4 had it (previous owner) and the car still looked flawless even with 26k of harsh Chicago roads & winters.

[Soulsaman]

I would also do it! I did a partial hood and I could see the line where the clearbra ended. It drove me nuts! I had to pay more to get it removed and then do the entire hood.
Do whole panels and you won't even know its there. Definitely worth it.

[MerkurRS]

Just in case you don't have enough "yes's" to convince you.....
My used '10 S4 came with it installed. I never had it on a car prior to this, so to me it seemed silly and I was ready to remove it. A few months passed and I realized how valuable (cost and usefulness) it was.
Bottom line is...it is going to remain on this car and probably be added to any next car purchases.[up]

[Skidrowe]

I don't have it and I have dents and chips in my hood from road debris. Most of them are around the front edge of the hood. If that sort of thing bothers you, then it would be a wise investment.

-Skid

[Im-AUDI-here]

I wish I would have done mine from day one. I have some minor ones in my bumper and I don't tailgate or follow behind trucks. Luckily they're minor so tomorrow I'm having Xpel installed on the full hood, full fenders, bumper, headlights and fog lights. I say do it.

[AznSensation87]

I had the same question a couple weeks ago. Had my car for 11 months now...and wound up getting 3M clearbra for the full hood, front bumper, fenders, mirrors, headlights, and fog lights. Don't regret it at all. What convinced me to get it was I started noticing some chips and scratches on my front, so I decided to go with the clearbra. It's hardly noticeable unless you're looking really closely, and I also opted for the full hood because I didn't want to see that line. Also would be good for the winter since we're both in the northeast. Only thing I regret is not getting it sooner!

[Nunez]

My S4 is coming in September. Im having the dealer clearbra the entire hood, headlights, front bumper, fenders & side mirrors. I live in Jersey, would you guys recommend the rear wheels & any other parts of the car?

[stlcity]

Thanks guys. Getting it installed early next week. Whatever little doubt I had..gone with the wind..[:d]

[RickFLS4]

I have used both 3M and Xpel on 4 different cars and would not go without protection film on the bumper and at least 1/3 of the hood / fenders. The last car I had without it, a Lexus, was a disaster due to chips all over the front end.

There is a seam when you don't do the whole hood / panel but it doesn't bother me in the least and the exposure beyond that isn't nearly as great at the bumper / front of hood. I suggest seeing one with a seam before dropping the money on covering the entire hood and / or fenders and if it bothers you go ahead and do the whole thing. Don't skip it or wait too long. At least get the bumper and 1/3 front end package. Also recommend headlights and luggage strip near trunk. Other disagree but I don't think backs of alu optic mirrors on S4 need it and mine are fine after a year and 18K miles without it.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[AznSensation87]

I have used both 3M and Xpel on 4 different cars and would not go without protection film on the bumper and at least 1/3 of the hood / fenders. The last car I had without it, a Lexus, was a disaster due to chips all over the front end.

There is a seam when you don't do the whole hood / panel but it doesn't bother me in the least and the exposure beyond that isn't nearly as great at the bumper / front of hood. I suggest seeing one with a seam before dropping the money on covering the entire hood and / or fenders and if it bothers you go ahead and do the whole thing. Don't skip it or wait too long. At least get the bumper and 1/3 front end package. Also recommend headlights and luggage strip near trunk. Other disagree but I don't think backs of alu optic mirrors on S4 need it and mine are fine after a year and 18K miles without it.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Yeah I agree...its mostly up to the OP if the line will bother them or not. If not, do half and it saves you a lot of money; if you can't stand seeing the line, do full, but be prepared to pay more (price approximately doubled for getting full hood from $600 to $1200). The guy threw in the clearbra'd mirrors for me as well...I feel like I didn't need them either, but he said if I didn't like the look he could just take it off. After I got my car back, I felt the clearbra on the mirrors didn't detract from the appearance in any way, so I just decided to leave them on.

[MrFunk]

I think it looks terrible on white cars which is why I didn't do it. But if I had a darker colored car I would have.

[NWS4Guy]

Yes, did front 18" of hood, had a chip Juuuuust past the line the next day. Next time I will do the front, and entire hood. Worth it.

[RickFLS4]

I don't know, I think the pillars and front of the roof are at least as exposed as the rest of the hood and not much other than bumper + front 1/3 is worth it from a cost perspective IMO. If you hate the seam, I get that and think then it's worth it from that perspective. I'd have a hard time justifying the cost for the incremental protection if you don't mind the seam. Unless you wrap the entire car, something is exposed.

I have Ibis White and a seam and it never bothers me because the seam is cleaned when the car is washed and I don't let wax and dirt build up at the seam. My last car was brilliant black and my wife's car is Phantom (and silver before that) and I don't think the seam is any more or less noticeable on any of them if kept clean.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[GoNavy]

yes. absolutely worth it! i did full hood/fenders/bumper and don't regret it...

[stlcity]

Thanks for input guys..I decided on the partial hood kit. I have it on my M. Has served it's purpose so far. Don't mind the line across the hood at all. My installer told me that partial hood should be enough. Getting it done next week.

[tofuking]

Good decision! Best i made for my car.

[Wusty]

Full hood on dark cars. Seriously, don't just do 1/4 hood. Full hood looks amazing. Doesn't even look like you have a film on. Please don't just do 1/4. The rest of the hood will look like crap with scratches, swirl marks, etc. why not protect it all so it all looks flawless forever? You want 3/4 of your hood to look bad?

[S4 00 2.7]

+1 on doing entire hood

[D-Press]

I did full front. (Full hood, full fenders, bumper, headlights, fogs, mirrors, pillars and 12" over windshield)

I strongly recommend doing at least full hood also.

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc253/BiggyD2K/image1.jpeg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc253/BiggyD2K/image2.jpeg

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc253/BiggyD2K/image3.jpeg

[Nunez]

I did full front. (Full hood, full fenders, bumper, headlights, fogs, mirrors, pillars and 12" over windshield)


Nice. I never put thought of doing the pillars & that gets me thinking. Was this done at the dealer & also do you mind telling me how much this ran you?

[D-Press]

Nice. I never put thought of doing the pillars & that gets me thinking. Was this done at the dealer & also do you mind telling me how much this ran you?

I went to the owner shop who sent his buddy to dealers to do glass tint and clear bra.

It cost me 1300$ with glass tint included. It would have been cheaper if I chose the normal clear bra, but I decided to pick the Protex Ultra that is thinner, more resistant, no yellowish fade and "auto-self-heal". They also said I can use the polisher on it too.

[Ultbruin]

I would do it. Wish I did it but it already had several small chips after driving the car in Germany on the autobahn. Oh well.
It definitely shows up more with the Estoril Blue. My last car was silver that I kept for over 10 years and it's not as noticeable.

[sixoclub]

I do not care for the clear bra due to maintenance and the line at the edge. I chose a white S4 as my commuter and do not hesitate to drive through a car wash. I would however very much considerate a clear bra with your paint color and stick with the hand wash. Color looks breat when its kept clean

[LINDW4LL]

I do not care for the clear bra due to maintenance and the line at the edge.

The edges should be completely hidden if the installer knows what they're doing. Unless you opt for only the front of the hood, but that's pointless to me.

[drob23]

Not sure if this is true, but I've heard Audi paint is not very resistant to rock chips relative to other makes. I did a full front *after* about 6k commuting miles, already was really bad and the Audi touch up paint doesn't look very good. Take my idiotic decision as a lesson in - if you worry about door dings, scratches and you commute a lot - do it right and get the PPF on day 1.

[pandi]

Xpel ultimate full front coverage. Very happy. Also got Xpel sealer for film.
My old car had full front chipped so I decided not to take chances with S4.

Also I do like the fact how easy dirt and bugs come off Xpel.

Are you using alcohol/Q tip on the edges? I have it on my white car and love it. Edges are still clean for now.

[RickFLS4]

Are you using alcohol/Q tip on the edges? I have it on my white car and love it. Edges are still clean for now.

That's really all it takes to keep it clean (and only once in a while). Car getting washed tomorrow after which I'll take some pics of my (also white) car that will be exactly 1 year from purchase tomorrow.

Unless you wrap the entire car, up close anything you do will be noticeable. For example, even if you do the full hood and fenders, up close you will see a difference vs. the doors. You can see the seam up close on my car but not at all from a distance and I have never had anyone notice it until I pointed it out to them.

I drove 18K miles last year, which was the lowest total in about 3 years. I'm completely comfortable with the protection / value of partial hood and fenders and think it looks just fine. (Also did headlights, which I recommend too.)

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[pandi]

^^ my car is 8mos. old w/ almost 11k miles now. I regret not getting full hood coz I got rock chipped on hood. A partial wouldn't have done the job even if I had done it. Also did headlights, fogs and side mirrors.

[name.goes.here]

Would definitely do it, especially if you do a lot of highway driving.

[RickFLS4]

My goal with the paint shield is to prevent the car's front end from becoming a mess and needing respray and I think a partial does exactly that. Unless you cover the whole car, over time you'll get a chip (probably several) somewhere else, whether it is the hood, pillars, windshield, roof or elsewhere. My last car was brilliant black and got the roof and trunk scratched when a bird landed on it and walked around while parked in a garage. Bird shit also tarnished a spot of clear coat. Fucking bird.

At the end of the day they are cars meant to be driven (and I drive a lot), so some shit is gonna inevitably happen. The bumper, headlights and hood / fenders bear the brunt and are certain to be in harm's way so that's why it is worth covering that part to me even though I'll take my chances on the rest of the car. Just cost / benefit.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[stlcity]

My goal with the paint shield is to prevent the car's front end from becoming a mess and needing respray and I think a partial does exactly that. Unless you cover the whole car, over time you'll get a chip (probably several) somewhere else, whether it is the hood, pillars, windshield, roof or elsewhere. My last car was brilliant black and got the roof and trunk scratched when a bird landed on it and walked around while parked in a garage. Bird shit also tarnished a spot of clear coat. Fucking bird.

At the end of the day they are cars meant to be driven (and I drive a lot), so some shit is gonna inevitably happen. The bumper, headlights and hood / fenders bear the brunt and are certain to be in harm's way so that's why it is worth covering that part to me even though I'll take my chances on the rest of the car. Just cost / benefit.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

That was my take too....was thinking about the cost/benefit when I went with the partial hood. Might regret it later [;)]....

[KMoore]

Is it something I can do myself or should I pay a reputable shop to do it?

[Amorphic]

Is it something I can do myself or should I pay a reputable shop to do it?

Can be done yourself but most people will go to a reputable shop. That way you have warranty too.

[RickFLS4]

A few pics after a wash of my S4 with partial coverage on the hood and fenders, where there are seams. Yes it is more noticeable when dirty and yes you can more clearly see them in person if I point them out to you. Anyway, as I posted earlier, this approach gave me the best cost / benefit and I don't see anything offensive about the look. I have had the car exactly one year today during which I put just over 18k miles on it, so it has seen the road. If someone really hates the seam or feels they need to protect more of the car, that's fine. However, I am happy with this approach and I would encourage anyone considering paint protectiom film to take a look at a partial in person. OP, I think you made the right choice.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/11/2yjuqety.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/11/6u3e4eja.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/11/ubevuqem.jpg

Finally, I would have a reputable authorized dealer install it or the warranty likely will not be honored by the manufacturer. You should get warranty information with the install. Unfortunately, these films have been known to crack, peel or yellow over time so the warranty is important. I haven't had those issues, at least not yet.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Im-AUDI-here]

A few pics after a wash of my S4 with partial coverage on the hood and fenders, where there are seams. Yes it is more noticeable when dirty and yes you can more clearly see them in person if I point them out to you. Anyway, as I posted earlier, this approach gave me the best cost / benefit and I don't see anything offensive about the look. I have had the car exactly one year today during which I put just over 18k miles on it, so it has seen the road. If someone really hates the seam or feels they need to protect more of the car, that's fine. However, I am happy with this approach and I would encourage anyone considering paint protectiom film to take a look at a partial in person. OP, I think you made the right choice.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/11/2yjuqety.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/11/6u3e4eja.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/11/ubevuqem.jpg

Finally, I would have a reputable authorized dealer install it or the warranty likely will not be honored by the manufacturer. You should get warranty information with the install. Unfortunately, these films have been known to crack, peel or yellow over time so the warranty is important. I haven't had those issues, at least not yet.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Maybe it's just me but your bra looks slightly yellow. I can clearly see it in those pics. Have you had it for the entire year?

[RickFLS4]

Maybe it's just me but your bra looks slightly yellow. I can clearly see it in those pics. Have you had it for the entire year?

You know what, you're right it does look slightly yellow in those pics after posting. Not the same in person or on ipad before posting (but easier to see seam in person). I'll need to keep an eye on it... I had it put on immediately after getting the car but have 9 years warranty left so if it seems to progress in person I'll need to take it back. I didn't notice before your comment because I didn't look at them on AZ after posting. It might be the light hitting the film vs. paint, but it seems a bit yellow on AZ. If it progresses to the point of looking the same in person, that would bother me and require warranty replacement. Nevertheless, still good with doing partial.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[goondog]

Couldnt find an actual 3M installer but dealer is quoting about $900 for hood, front and mirrors. Is this acceptable price or do they farm it out and jack up cost?
Dont have anything to compare it to so looking for help THX!
Would prefer to do install before picking up car.

[FatalBert]

Couldnt find an actual 3M installer but dealer is quoting about $900 for hood, front and mirrors. Is this acceptable price or do they farm it out and jack up cost?
Dont have anything to compare it to so looking for help THX!
Would prefer to do install before picking up car.

Full hood, bumper, and partial fenders with mirrors? 900 is an okay price. They charged me $1250 (i got ripped off). But you can find a shop to do it with better film too (like xpel) for like $750 full hood, fenders, bumper and mirrors.

[jfabes]

Full hood, bumper, and partial fenders with mirrors? 900 is an okay price. They charged me $1250 (i got ripped off). But you can find a shop to do it with better film too (like xpel) for like $750 full hood, fenders, bumper and mirrors.

Disagree....$750 for full front with xpel is a steal. The full hood alone is an extra $300. If you look on their website, the film alone for full front is over $1300 but most installers will install for that since they get the film cheaper. I paid $750 for xpel partial with mirrors and behind the wheels. 3m is cheaper because the film is less expensive.

[FatalBert]

Disagree....$750 for full front with xpel is a steal. The full hood alone is an extra $300. If you look on their website, the film alone for full front is over $1300 but most installers will install for that since they get the film cheaper. I paid $750 for xpel partial with mirrors and behind the wheels. 3m is cheaper because the film is less expensive.

My mistake, I thought someone on here got that deal. I was thinking in that range. Maybe I am mistaking the full hood/fenders for partial.

[AudiB8S4]

What's better? Suntek or expel?

[jfabes]

What's better? Suntek or expel?

I had suntech and it yellowed after about a year, and they warranted it. on xpel now, so we'll see...

my car is ibis though...and white is about the worst you can get for yellowing. having owned both though, I will say that the finish on the suntech is better...it looked identical to the clear coat on the car. the xpel has a little more of an orange peel surface. the suntech was also just a little thicker (or at least it looked thicker). both have good warranties. obviously, if I had to do it over, I would not have gone with suntech on white.

[stlcity]

Couldnt find an actual 3M installer but dealer is quoting about $900 for hood, front and mirrors. Is this acceptable price or do they farm it out and jack up cost?
Dont have anything to compare it to so looking for help THX!
Would prefer to do install before picking up car.

Payed 600$ for partial hood kit..xpel ultimate. Was installed last Thursday. Was quoted I think 1200$ for full hood. Hippie this helps.

[AudiB8S4]

I had suntech and it yellowed after about a year, and they warranted it. on xpel now, so we'll see...

my car is ibis though...and white is about the worst you can get for yellowing. having owned both though, I will say that the finish on the suntech is better...it looked identical to the clear coat on the car. the xpel has a little more of an orange peel surface. the suntech was also just a little thicker (or at least it looked thicker). both have good warranties. obviously, if I had to do it over, I would not have gone with suntech on white.

Does Suntek have self healing properties? In the website it states it does but Expel claims it is the only self healing paint profection film.

[helix139]

I had suntech and it yellowed after about a year, and they warranted it. on xpel now, so we'll see...

my car is ibis though...and white is about the worst you can get for yellowing. having owned both though, I will say that the finish on the suntech is better...it looked identical to the clear coat on the car. the xpel has a little more of an orange peel surface. the suntech was also just a little thicker (or at least it looked thicker). both have good warranties. obviously, if I had to do it over, I would not have gone with suntech on white.

Yellowing is generally caused by contaminants getting embedded in the pores of the clear film, not simply UV from the sun. You have to regularly clean your film with a film cleaner such as Xpel or Premier PF1 and avoid using anything on it with petroleum distillates (aka plexus).

[shadycrew31]

There's a local company here that does full fender bumper and hood for about $1500. I haven't done it yet as I need to get a respray first let it cure then have the clear bra applied.

Considering this paint chips if you look at it for more than 5 minutes I'd say its highly worth it. A respray costs around 700 with labor so its really a no brainier for me.

[jfabes]

Yellowing is generally caused by contaminants getting embedded in the pores of the clear film, not simply UV from the sun. You have to regularly clean your film with a film cleaner such as Xpel or Premier PF1 and avoid using anything on it with petroleum distillates (aka plexus).

no, i get it. I actually used both the xpel cleaning and sealing products on the clear bra since the day it was installed and used them every 2-3 weeks when i wash the car, and remove stains readily (bird dropping, etc.) immediately. i couldn't have taken much better care of it. I've been told that eventually all films will yellow, some just take longer than others (which is one reason why they have a limited warranty and not a life-time warranty). as i mentioned above, i got 4 quotes for suntech, 3m and xpel and all the installers told me the same thing regarding yellowing on white, especially on ibis which is so vibrant. my installer told me he had a yellowing issue on a white gtr a few months ago, but it was swapped out under warranty. i just don't think it can be avoided on white with any film, sorry to disagree with you.

[FatalBert]

no, i get it. I actually used both the xpel cleaning and sealing products on the clear bra since the day it was installed and used them every 2-3 weeks when i wash the car, and remove stains readily (bird dropping, etc.) immediately. i couldn't have taken much better care of it. I've been told that eventually all films will yellow, some just take longer than others (which is one reason why they have a limited warranty and not a life-time warranty). as i mentioned above, i got 4 quotes for suntech, 3m and xpel and all the installers told me the same thing regarding yellowing on white, especially on ibis which is so vibrant. my installer told me he had a yellowing issue on a white gtr a few months ago, but it was swapped out under warranty. i just don't think it can be avoided on white with any film, sorry to disagree with you.

Yea it is 10x easier to see yellowing on a white background vs say a black one. I don't even know if my film is yellowed or not on my phantom black.

[jfabes]

Does Suntek have self healing properties? In the website it states it does but Expel claims it is the only self healing paint profection film.

i believe they both do. when the suntech was removed after about 15k miles, other than yellowing, it looked like new and the front end underneath looked like new....with the exception of two spots...one where a stone actually went through the film and another where a stone didn't go through, but it left a very slight indentation in the plastic bumper. but those are extremely rare. it deflected 99% of road debris....

[maf9]

Another vote for yes...I did my wife's car when we bought it 6 years ago. The film was absolutely torn up after 4 years in FL and 2 in PA, but when peeled off the paint still looked brand-new. Otoh, I didn't do my S4, and I kick myself every day. I'm seriously considering having the front bumper and leading edge of the hood resprayed, then having the bra done.

[XPEL]

It was on this forum a couple weeks back that someone asked us how long the warranty was on XPEL ULTIMATE. I replied, "it comes with a 10 year warranty, and that covers yellowing". They replied back with "so does that mean after 10 years I should take it off or that it will yellow?" The answer is absolutely not. Just like with anything in life, if it's maintained and taken care of, it will last longer. The 10 year limit on the warranty is simply saying that at the very least, if not maintained, 10 years is how long we will warranty it. But if it's washed, and cared for, and if you use sealant (as I saw a couple of you posted that you use) then the film will last indefinitely.

But other than the 10 year warranty, there are a couple reasons why XPEL is the best film on the market. We sat down with Audizine member James M and he told us why he chose XPEL.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9k5cP5gQrls

XPEL BLOG - AUDI RS5 Thread (http://blog.xpel.com/james-m-and-his-2014-audi-rs5/)

If anyone has any questions feel free to reply here, or PM us.

[RickFLS4]

It was on this forum a couple weeks back that someone asked us how long the warranty was on XPEL ULTIMATE. I replied, "it comes with a 10 year warranty, and that covers yellowing". They replied back with "so does that mean after 10 years I should take it off or that it will yellow?" The answer is absolutely not. Just like with anything in life, if it's maintained and taken care of, it will last longer. The 10 year limit on the warranty is simply saying that at the very least, if not maintained, 10 years is how long we will warranty it. But if it's washed, and cared for, and if you use sealant (as I saw a couple of you posted that you use) then the film will last indefinitely.

But other than the 10 year warranty, there are a couple reasons why XPEL is the best film on the market. We sat down with Audizine member James M and he told us why he chose XPEL.

If anyone has any questions feel free to reply here, or PM us.

Please take a look at my pics in #47. It is Xpel Ultimate installed for one year and appears (more in photo than in person) to be yellowing, which I didn't notice until posting those pics. I have not yet taken it back to installer, but plan to do so. However, other than keeping the film clean, what should I be doing to avoid this yellowing? Probably hard to diagnose by the pics, but any feedback would be appreciated. Love the product otherwise. Thanks.

[AudiB8S4]

It was on this forum a couple weeks back that someone asked us how long the warranty was on XPEL ULTIMATE. I replied, "it comes with a 10 year warranty, and that covers yellowing". They replied back with "so does that mean after 10 years I should take it off or that it will yellow?" The answer is absolutely not. Just like with anything in life, if it's maintained and taken care of, it will last longer. The 10 year limit on the warranty is simply saying that at the very least, if not maintained, 10 years is how long we will warranty it. But if it's washed, and cared for, and if you use sealant (as I saw a couple of you posted that you use) then the film will last indefinitely.

But other than the 10 year warranty, there are a couple reasons why XPEL is the best film on the market. We sat down with Audizine member James M and he told us why he chose XPEL.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9k5cP5gQrls

XPEL BLOG - AUDI RS5 Thread (http://blog.xpel.com/james-m-and-his-2014-audi-rs5/)

If anyone has any questions feel free to reply here, or PM us.

Please explain what would make Expel better than Suntek. I need to make a decision soon.

[goondog]

Thanks for all the info and help on choosing PPF. Ive looked at most threads and after lots of calling around ive picked either the xpel ultimate or the avery nano fusion.
The pick likely goes to quality of installer and convenience factor.
Suntek appears to be similar to the xpel ultimate product and it seems lots of folks here have it and is made for large distribution tinters (ie Tintworld shops) so that might help with upholding warranty issues etc.
In the end I think all three are likely pretty similar and comes down to taking care of product,cost and installation experience.

[Pop.Tremuloides]

GREAT TOPIC!!!!

Quick question.....just how hard is it to remove the films once they are on? My reason for asking is ours has a 1/4 hood, mirrors, and NOTHING on the front of our A5. I hate rock chips more than anyone and I have a funny feeling that our "clearbra" should be removed when we decide to do the hood/left and right fenders, front fascia.

[markynels]

Not sure if it was covered within this topic, or not; http://www.amazon.com/3M-90000-Paint-Defender-Spray/dp/B00BSKYM82

Anyone had any luck with it? Going to take a stab at it before winter hits, and likely remove it next May once the street cleaners take to the streets.

[SE-Chris]

People saying "Do It" as if it wasn't $1500+ Not terribly cheap =(

[goondog]

Might help some potential buyers make their minds up:


http://www.tintdude.com/forum/index.php/topic/74932-test-of-durability-of-ppf-3m-avery-kpmf-orafol-xpel/page__hl__durability

[shadycrew31]

Might help some potential buyers make their minds up:


http://www.tintdude.com/forum/index.php/topic/74932-test-of-durability-of-ppf-3m-avery-kpmf-orafol-xpel/page__hl__durability

Awesome link, I have a friend that wraps cars local and is a certified installed for Avery Dennison products. I think my cost would be in the range of $600 installed so its a no brainer.

[Infra]

At the same distance at which you can recognize rock chips, you can see the film. So what's the point?

Some people prefer the film's appearance to chips filled w/ touch up paint. Either one is a blemish on the car. I had a clear bra on my last car, and I still had a few chips damage it. It looks worse when the clear bra is ripped up than just a plain chip.

If your daily drive tops out @ 45 MPH, it's probably worth the investment. If you do a lot of highway driving, don't bother with the clear bra because it's not going to change much - double the speed, quadruple the energy involved - you'll still get chips on other exposed surfaces, and even in the clear bra itself.

[shadycrew31]

At the same distance at which you can recognize rock chips, you can see the film. So what's the point?

Some people prefer the film's appearance to chips filled w/ touch up paint. Either one is a blemish on the car. I had a clear bra on my last car, and I still had a few chips damage it. It looks worse when the clear bra is ripped up than just a plain chip.

If your daily drive tops out @ 45 MPH, it's probably worth the investment. If you do a lot of highway driving, don't bother with the clear bra because it's not going to change much - double the speed, quadruple the energy involved - you'll still get chips on other exposed surfaces, and even in the clear bra itself.

Thats why you get the hood bumper and fenders wrapped...

I have no idea what this will look like but I am pretty sure it'll look better than a bunch of rock chips.

[XPEL]

Please take a look at my pics in #47. It is Xpel Ultimate installed for one year and appears (more in photo than in person) to be yellowing, which I didn't notice until posting those pics. I have not yet taken it back to installer, but plan to do so. However, other than keeping the film clean, what should I be doing to avoid this yellowing? Probably hard to diagnose by the pics, but any feedback would be appreciated. Love the product otherwise. Thanks.

I'd like to know more about this to understand why this happened. Contact me at [email protected] and we will help you.


Please explain what would make Expel better than Suntek. I need to make a decision soon.

XPEL ULTIMATE is 20% thicker, which provides greater impact protection, and it's highly resistant to chemicals including things like lacquer thinner, and acetone. Which means should you get stains on the film that won't come off with normal car washing, you can remove them with chemicals without damaging the film. Also, XPEL ULTIMATE's clear coat is hard enough that you can actually color sand and polish it. I don't know of any other films that you can sand and polish. Last but not least XPEL ULTIMATE comes with a 10 year warranty.


GREAT TOPIC!!!!

Quick question.....just how hard is it to remove the films once they are on? My reason for asking is ours has a 1/4 hood, mirrors, and NOTHING on the front of our A5. I hate rock chips more than anyone and I have a funny feeling that our "clearbra" should be removed when we decide to do the hood/left and right fenders, front fascia.

Removing the film can be easy. We recommend taking it to an installer to have it removed. Or, using a steamer, warm the film and remove slowly.

[BlueByU]

Love Xpel Ultimate! FTW! I recently had full hood, full fenders, front bumper, lamps, a pillars and roof, rear bumper done by Midwest ClearBra. People ask me, "When you putting the clear bra on your car." I gotta reply, "it's already on!"

[helix139]

At the same distance at which you can recognize rock chips, you can see the film. So what's the point?

Some people prefer the film's appearance to chips filled w/ touch up paint. Either one is a blemish on the car. I had a clear bra on my last car, and I still had a few chips damage it. It looks worse when the clear bra is ripped up than just a plain chip.

If your daily drive tops out @ 45 MPH, it's probably worth the investment. If you do a lot of highway driving, don't bother with the clear bra because it's not going to change much - double the speed, quadruple the energy involved - you'll still get chips on other exposed surfaces, and even in the clear bra itself.

Disagree with this completely and wholeheartedly. As was said, wrap the entire front. With a good film, you won't be able to tell it is there. Chips on other surfaces are very unlikely and will be far fewer in nature.

FWIW, almost all of my 35,000 miles are highway speed (probably 90%) and I have had clearbra on my car since the day after delivery. The film has held up very well, with only one real blemish that is only visible very close up (inside 3 feet). Whatever hit my car there likely would have done significant bumper damage without the clear film. Keep in mind that I've now been through 6 love bug seasons and most of the highways here have an excessive amount of dump trucks that carry phosphate and gravel that spews all over cars, and there are a ton of semi's and lifted trucks that kick up rocks. My car looks far better after 2 1/2 years than my previous car did after 1 year.

[stactum]

Agreed. I have full front wrap in Xpel ultimate film I also got sealer from Xpel and applied on it - car has almost 13K miles, and you can hardly tell it's there. Love it! It cost me 1K from official Xpel installer to do front wrap with headlight, fogs, mirrors, etc.

[helix139]

Agreed. I have full front wrap in Xpel ultimate film I also got sealer from Xpel and applied on it - car has almost 13K miles, and you can hardly tell it's there. Love it! It cost me 1K from official Xpel installer to do front wrap with headlight, fogs, mirrors, etc.

I started out using the Xpel sealant but have now started using Sonax Polymer Netshield instead. MUCH more durable and effective. My bug remover will take off the Xpel sealant, but the Sonax lasts for months and is super easy to apply. I also have my detailer apply it as a last step on top of the Zaino I have done every 5-6 months. Really brings out the metal flake in the paint.

[ThemisN]

Definite yes! Also, make sure you dont get it done at a car dealer. The installer does not stand by their product as well as if they were a standalone business. I did it so that the car would have the clear bra at delivery, and had an issue that wasnt rectified until the dealer stepped in and paid for it to be fixed.
I much wouldve rather gone to my first installer that I trusted. If you are in NJ, shoot me a message and I will get you their info.

[Infra]

Disagree with this completely and wholeheartedly. As was said, wrap the entire front. With a good film, you won't be able to tell it is there. Chips on other surfaces are very unlikely and will be far fewer in nature.

FWIW, almost all of my 35,000 miles are highway speed (probably 90%) and I have had clearbra on my car since the day after delivery. The film has held up very well, with only one real blemish that is only visible very close up (inside 3 feet). Whatever hit my car there likely would have done significant bumper damage without the clear film. Keep in mind that I've now been through 6 love bug seasons and most of the highways here have an excessive amount of dump trucks that carry phosphate and gravel that spews all over cars, and there are a ton of semi's and lifted trucks that kick up rocks. My car looks far better after 2 1/2 years than my previous car did after 1 year.

If you're going to pay to wrap the entire front, you'd get more value by not doing it and spending the money on repainting the front end when you sell the car.

This is a purely superficial thing to spend money on. At the end of ownership, the front end is still damaged, and it's not any cheaper to repair. If you're cool with that, then go ahead.

[helix139]

If you're going to pay to wrap the entire front, you'd get more value by not doing it and spending the money on repainting the front end when you sell the car.

This is a purely superficial thing to spend money on. At the end of ownership, the front end is still damaged, and it's not any cheaper to repair. If you're cool with that, then go ahead.

Wrong for several reasons.

A) the front end will not be damaged at the end of ownership. At least not to any noticeable degree
B) I'm planning on owning this thing a while. Not too concerned about the next owner. More concerned with my own enjoyment and satisfaction of my car
C) Original factory paint > respray ALWAYS, especially considering blending issues and slight differences in color as the paint ages, not to mention having to wait for it to cure before it can be sealed
D) Rock chips drive me nuts
E) Love bugs in florida will eat through your paint very, very quickly. If you haven't gone through a love bug season, you don't get it. The ******s are everywhere and acidic as hell. You'll need a respray within a couple of years, daily maintenance that I just don't have time to do, or your front end will be pitted and stained and look like shit.

Dollar for dollar would a clear bra be more than a respray? Probably, but it's not that much more and I find value in keeping my original paint and having a front end that doesn't look like it got sandblasted. It also makes maintenance a hell of a lot easier.

[Wusty]

If you're going to pay to wrap the entire front, you'd get more value by not doing it and spending the money on repainting the front end when you sell the car.

This is a purely superficial thing to spend money on. At the end of ownership, the front end is still damaged, and it's not any cheaper to repair. If you're cool with that, then go ahead.

I want my car to look as perfect as possible all the time. Swirl marks & rocks ships are no bueno for me. Putting a film on the whole front end eliminates the swirls & little rock chips. Having mine done is one of the best things I've done for my car to keep it looking 100 all the time.

[s4buckeye]

I want my car to look as perfect as possible all the time. Swirl marks & rocks ships are no bueno for me. Putting a film on the whole front end eliminates the swirls & little rock chips. Having mine done is one of the best things I've done for my car to keep it looking 100 all the time.


wtf 100

[Wusty]

wtf 100

That's me mayne.

[RickFLS4]

Picks from older posts (#47 / #48) where someone pointed out to me it was starting to yellow:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/11/2yjuqety.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/11/6u3e4eja.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/11/ubevuqem.jpg

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Guys, this is looking better, right:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/02/uqajesy2.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/02/dusyruba.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/02/aqu8agav.jpg

I think it is after numerous cleanings. Objective opinions? (Working with Xpel to replace under warranty if yellow, but am starting to feel like it is cleaning up and may be ok).

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[LINDW4LL]

It looks better from the pictures.

But it's hard to tell. You would know better than we would.

[RickFLS4]

It looks better from the pictures.

But it's hard to tell. You would know better than we would.

You'd think so, but I'm also the one that didn't notice it yellowing until someone pointed it out to me here.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[helix139]

Yep, definitely looking better. Often times yellowing is due simply to contaminants. This is why its essential to use a film cleaner regularly and to seal your film after cleaning. Another cause is using a cleaner such as plexus which contains petroleum distillates which will turn plastic yellow.

[b8audis4]

Yes it looks better. I wouldn't want it replaced this soon. I would rather wait for another year and then put it on. Would want to get some more use out of it even though they are paying for it.

Also this is a good reason to do full panels. Trust me I know it is pricey but it is a one time premium you pay to have perfect paint.

[RickFLS4]

Only issues with whole hood and fenders are (a) cost and (b) the fact that the whole hood and fenders would have looked yellow. It isn't the seam that was the issue, it was the color of the film all over. Keeping the film clean seems like it may be more work than the paint so I'm happy I didn't do the full hood and fenders. Very glad to see it getting cleaned up because it is my preference not to spend a day getting it replaced under warranty.

With that said, the only blemish on the car is a small chip on a part of the hood that isn't covered. That would have been prevented by covering the full hood, but I'm ok just touching it up. 1 chip in 18 mos/24K miles is acceptable to me.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[shonseb]

I had numerous chips on my a5's front end from highway driving. Living in NYC I'm fortunate to have a driveway, but sadly no garage. I even have issues with the driveway, it's very narrow and people my family walked by the car adj the time. We also have to drag my trash can by the car on pick up days. And finally there are power lines running above the driveway so birds would always shit on the car.
However I do have a hand car wash place near me, actually one of the best I've ever been too because although it runs on a track, it's a conveyer belt and not rails so it doesn't touch my wheels and damage them and on top of that you can go with a very low car and not have to worry. They also offer unlimited monthly plans (max 1 wash/day). You'd think they would be great, and it was until I saw the long term effect of it where after about a month you could see the finer scratches and swirls that would need to buffed out with a polisher or temporarily hidden with a coat of wax. I figured this was just something I had to live with until I saw the video of xpels self healing where they took a wire brush to it. In that video you could see the areas where xpel was applied there were no scratches or swirls, but when you looked at the exposed area you could see swirls. Seemed like a great solution to what little but annoying problem I had. So when I picked up my rs knowing all the issues I had in the past, it was almost a no brainer for me that xpel would be going. I wrapped the entire car. Numerous people have seen the car since and no one can tell it's wrapped until I point it out and even then they can't believe it. I'm hoping proper maintenance will keep tip top, so far after a few washes still looks great.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[helix139]

Keeping the film clean seems like it may be more work than the paint so I'm happy I didn't do the full hood and fenders.

Just use the film cleaner during every wash and then seal up with a film sealant or use something like sonax polymer netshield which is far more durable and will keep your film sealed for 3-4 months