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Nduetime
07-29-2013, 09:57 PM
So my next set of repairs consists of timing belt replacement (kit) and thermostat. I've read about 4-5 hour TB jobs but know fully well that I'm not looking to push this job. I've given myself 4 days to complete it. My assumption is, that should allow me time to start, take my time, trouble shoot any unforeseen issues and finish. I suppose I'm looking for validation on this one. In planning for this job I've downloaded a video of the procedure and have saved the various threads regarding the job.

I do have one question, when pivoting the radiator to the side, how far will it pivot? I ask because I'll be doing the job in a garage of a family members and I'm not wanting to take up both spaces. However, I might be interested in draining all coolant, flush and refill.

Avant Nate
07-29-2013, 10:41 PM
You can basically move the radiator completely out of the way. In order to that, You have unhook top and bottom radiator lines, which=drain all coolant.

grmnmusl
07-29-2013, 11:02 PM
Drain coolant using nipple at lower DS of radiator, make it ease put a hose on the nipple so you dont make a mess.
Remove front bumper, unbolt condensor and invert/rotate it 180 degrees and place by passanger front wheel.
unplug headlights and plugs by PS bottle, upper and lower coolant hoses and remove radiator support by pulling the
bolts by at the upright 4 on each side and place safely out the way.

Take a seat and go to work.

walky_talky20
07-30-2013, 05:54 AM
You get it fully out of the way (if you want) on a manual trans car. If you have to put the car in "D" for it move forward, then the transmission cooler lines will prevent full removal of the front end. But it's not a big deal. You still have tons of room to work.

datmanfpres
07-30-2013, 09:33 AM
The first time I did it took a day, because a few of the larger bolts required a fuckton of fire and leverage. The second time I did it (thanks to the dealer giving me the wrong idler pulley) it took 90min start to finish.

Nduetime
07-30-2013, 09:06 PM
Mines a auto... Looks like I won't be able to fully remove it then. Shoot! While the garage is a two car garage, it's also a 6-8 year old track home. Meaning, while it can fit two cars, room around them is extremely limited. In some way, I was hoping I'd be able to get more rotation/inversion on the radiator/hoses (like 270 degrees.) Fat chance! Oh well, I'll try it at 90 degrees and hope the garage door will still close without hitting my car.

Gonna go with this (http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Engine/Timing/Timing_Belt_Kit/ES2569814/) ultimate timing kit and this (http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Engine/Cooling/Thermostat/ES7013/) 82 degree thermostat from ECS.

Was planning on doing the TB and Thermostat replacement but also wanted to do a full coolant flush. However, a little confused by the order for the procedure. After TB/Thermostat replacement, I'd have to add coolant prior to start to car to verify TB job is correct. However, coolant flush requires drainage then refill with new coolant. I suppose I could reuse old coolant to finish TB job then proceed with coolant flush after successful completion of TB job?

Any additional items I should be pay attention to when performing this job? I'd like to order all my parts towards then end of this week. Probably going to replace mounts while I'm at it.

Vierings
07-31-2013, 12:00 AM
Mines a auto... Looks like I won't be able to fully remove it then. Shoot! While the garage is a two car garage, it's also a 6-8 year old track home. Meaning, while it can fit two cars, room around them is extremely limited. In some way, I was hoping I'd be able to get more rotation/inversion on the radiator/hoses (like 270 degrees.) Fat chance! Oh well, I'll try it at 90 degrees and hope the garage door will still close without hitting my car.

Gonna go with this (http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Engine/Timing/Timing_Belt_Kit/ES2569814/) ultimate timing kit and this (http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-Quattro-1.8T/Engine/Cooling/Thermostat/ES7013/) 82 degree thermostat from ECS.

Was planning on doing the TB and Thermostat replacement but also wanted to do a full coolant flush. However, a little confused by the order for the procedure. After TB/Thermostat replacement, I'd have to add coolant prior to start to car to verify TB job is correct. However, coolant flush requires drainage then refill with new coolant. I suppose I could reuse old coolant to finish TB job then proceed with coolant flush after successful completion of TB job?

Any additional items I should be pay attention to when performing this job? I'd like to order all my parts towards then end of this week. Probably going to replace mounts while I'm at it.

If you are really worried about filling/emptying/filling due to timing be incorrect, I would suggest running only water for the test period, not only are you minimizing the risk to spill good, expensive coolant everywhere: this will help you flush the system more thoroughly.

pughdxk
07-31-2013, 12:54 AM
You have unhook top and bottom radiator lineshttp://price.womenobey.com/01.jpg
http://price.womenobey.com/02.jpg
http://price.womenobey.com/03.jpg
http://price.womenobey.com/04.jpg
http://price.womenobey.com/05.jpg
http://healthllife.com/images/images/9.gif

walky_talky20
07-31-2013, 05:49 AM
...start to car to verify TB job is correct.

You don't need to do this. Because you will be 100% certain the timing is correct before you put it back together. One Hundred Percent.

Why so certain? Because you need to be. And because you are going to paint mark your old belt to each sprocket *before* you take it off. Then you're going to transfer those marks *with accuracy* to your new belt. Then you will install it, matching up the paint marks so it is actually impossible for the timing to be anything but 100% correct. Then you will double check using the factory marks. Then you will put the car back together.

Like this. Mark belt-to-cam-sprocket:

http://www.shaw-clan.com/beetlepix/tbelt/tbelt14.jpg

Mark belt-to-crank-sprocket:

http://www.shaw-clan.com/beetlepix/tbelt/tbelt9.jpg

Transfer marks to new belt with accuracy:

http://www.shaw-clan.com/beetlepix/tbelt/tbelt19.jpg

Reinstall, and marvel at the lack of guesswork with this method.

Here is another example. I like to make my marks a little less...sloppy, but yeah:

http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp208/coilbox20vt/Distri%20y%20soportes/Imagen_0578.jpg
http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp208/coilbox20vt/Distri%20y%20soportes/Imagen_0567.jpg
http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/pp208/coilbox20vt/Distri%20y%20soportes/Imagen_0607.jpg

Nduetime
07-31-2013, 08:02 AM
Thanks walky.... After reading your posts, I always feel like I'm prepared to tackle said job. Maybe you didn't mean for encouragement in your post but that's what I got when reading. My TB job will only happen with belt marks like you suggest.

BlackLock_A4
07-31-2013, 08:29 AM
Good luck! Not as hard as it seems. I have had more trouble replacing the Coolant Flange than doing the TB job.

walky_talky20
07-31-2013, 08:31 AM
Thanks walky.... After reading your posts, I always feel like I'm prepared to tackle said job. Maybe you didn't mean for encouragement in your post but that's what I got when reading. My TB job will only happen with belt marks like you suggest.

What a nice comment! Thank you for the kind words. I really appreciate it.

Nduetime
07-31-2013, 12:30 PM
Thank you for the kind words. I really appreciate it.

I have to be honest... If ever you decide to travel to SF/Oakland, let me know. I'll buy all your drinks! It's members like you that make this such an amazing community.


Good luck! Not as hard as it seems. I have had more trouble replacing the Coolant Flange than doing the TB job.

I was actually thinking of doing mine at the same time. Would it make sense to tackle the Coolant Flange with the front off (since I'll be replacing the coolant anyways?) At a price of $10-25 for the replacement Flange, seems like cheep insurance to ensure I'll be good again until the next TB job.

Nduetime
08-01-2013, 07:39 PM
Wow... So very mixed first experience with ECS today. Their shipping policy for first time customers sucks! I can understand the concern about shipping products to people that "potentially" provide stolen CC information but come on. Their competition or any other business these days have no problem shipping to a different address than the provided billing address. The only reason I decided to process my order with them is because I had all of the +25 parts figured out and selected. I would have lost another day in shipping had I gone through a competitor. I even had a bad experience when checking transit time, shipping to California. Was quoted one less day than what it actually is.
Only saving grace I have for them is the fact they were willing to change my ground shipping option to 2 day. No point in leaving town to work on your car for 4 days if the parts don't show up in time.
Overall, less than ideal experience and would really have to be in a bind for something to go back to ECS.
Time to look elsewhere for all the non-essential parts I left off my order. Looks like some mounts have to wait!

walky_talky20
08-01-2013, 08:26 PM
Sorry to hear about your trouble with ECS. Was this policy just for first time customers? That's probably easy to fix. First transaction, buy one thing you'll need later and ship to billing address. Bam: No longer a first time customer. Proceed to get whatever you need and ship wherever you want on subsequent transactions.

Or maybe they are hip to these "schemes" as well?

Nduetime
08-01-2013, 08:34 PM
Ha.... you and I think a lot alike Walky. After finding out about this crazy policy from the first customer service rep. I called back inquiring about exactly what you suggested. Figured it shouldn't be a problem. However, I was told I couldn't ship to a different address until 45 days later. Only way around it was paying through Paypal or wire transferring them the money. I've got no time for that... For f sakes! This is the only time I've ever encountered something like this. H!#$... Blauparts had no problem shipping my parts to where ever I needed them. Same with Raxles, Amazon, the pizza place I get delivery from. Whatever.... I have more important things to focus on, like my timing belt job.

Nduetime
08-04-2013, 10:17 AM
Can I get some conformation on mounts... I thought I read somewhere that the left and right side engine mounts are the same. However, everywhere I look has them listed as different items with different numbers. Also, is one or two transmission mounts like this (http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=rx3vmj55x2yflr55rjznmu55&makeid=800002@Audi&modelid=1368121@A4%20QUATTRO%20AVANT%20TURBO&year=2001&cid=33@Transmission/Transaxle%20System&gid=7948@Auto%20Trans%20Mount) needed for a tiptronic transmission? I ask because every tutorial I've seen shows only this right (passanger) mount. But I've seen it indicated on suppliers sites that two are necessary.

Corrado_Guy
08-04-2013, 11:46 AM
The main engine mounts are the same, well, at least the 034 mounts I installed were the same mount for each side. The 1.8T auto and V6 both use the mount in your link on both sides and the 1.8T uses an odd-ball mount on one side and the one you posted on the other.

Nduetime
08-04-2013, 02:11 PM
That's what I thought. Thanks!

Nduetime
08-06-2013, 12:58 PM
Corrado_Guy... Do you have the 1.8T? I just spoke with 034 about the mounts (actually calling to verify that OEM mounts and Ambient Temperature Sensor was in stock for local pick up) and was told their Street Density Line does not introduce additional vibration into the cabin. Can you confirm this? I'm not really looking to modify my Avant so I'm not really sure I can justify spending the additional money for them over OEM.

BlackLock_A4
08-06-2013, 01:48 PM
I was actually thinking of doing mine at the same time. Would it make sense to tackle the Coolant Flange with the front off (since I'll be replacing the coolant anyways?) At a price of $10-25 for the replacement Flange, seems like cheep insurance to ensure I'll be good again until the next TB job.

Yes it makes sense to do it while the radiator is off, it will give you much more leg room rather than kneeing on the bumper. Don't expect the flange to last 70K - it won't.

Regarding ECS, I ordered something when I moved, but didn't change my billing address yet. Although this was not my first time ordering a part from them, they just gave me a call to verify and I said that i'ts correct. The part shipped right away, no problems other than the weird confirmation phone call.

Corrado_Guy
08-06-2013, 04:09 PM
Corrado_Guy... Do you have the 1.8T? I just spoke with 034 about the mounts (actually calling to verify that OEM mounts and Ambient Temperature Sensor was in stock for local pick up) and was told their Street Density Line does not introduce additional vibration into the cabin. Can you confirm this? I'm not really looking to modify my Avant so I'm not really sure I can justify spending the additional money for them over OEM.

It is hard to say, I did get an increased vibration but it is not what I would call harsh but it is there. I also went for the poly snub mount bushing which would add to this for sure. The vibrations were much worse at first and they have settled down over the year or so they have been in there. My car is a big turbo car so it really needs mounts like this but if yours is stock and you plan on keeping it that way then the OEM mounts should do you fine. If you look at the mileage of your car and consider the mounts are the stock ones that came with the car then they are doing pretty good and OEM should last you a while.

Nduetime
08-06-2013, 10:53 PM
So here's my concern... I have a part time gig that requires me driving people around town in my car. I have no objections to minor additional cabin vibrations but am concerned about how others would take it. I'm not looking at any upcoming mods (turbo upgrade, etc.) that I feel would justify purchasing the street density mounts.
I ordered an APR snub mount and think that should be a nice addition. Although, I'm still a little confused as to effect it will have on a stock 1.8t with Tiptronic?
After getting a price on some grand touring tires, alignment check and factoring in a possible FCP Euro group buy, 13 piece suspension control arm kit purchase, maybe I'll just stick to the OEM engine and transmission mounts for now.

Nduetime
08-08-2013, 11:33 PM
Have the front removed and have a question about the marks on the timing belt at the crank. Is that just some arbitrary spot on the Crank sprocket? I can't use the actual timing mark at the crank because the belt tooth doesn't meet the pulley (see below.)

http://imageshack.us/a/img707/7707/8nx8.jpg

Can I use the raised set indention of the crank pulley as my crank reference point as seen in the photo below?

http://imageshack.us/a/img23/8299/l6em.jpg

I'm following two tutorials and both indicate pulling the crank pulley off and lower timing cover BEFORE setting the Cam/Crank reference marks. Seems a little backwards to me. I ended up pulling the crank pulley and lower timing belt cover off, set the cam mark, reinstalled the timing cover and pulley to verify crank marks lined up and this is what I have...

Cam
http://imageshack.us/a/img43/3330/zign.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img191/2265/tbvz.jpg

Crank
http://imageshack.us/a/img594/7619/y2hv.jpg

Marks are spot on for both the Crank and Cam. I have 68 ribs from just right of the Cam sprocket mark to the raised indention on the Crank. I was hoping someone can confirm I can use some arbitrary spot on the Crank sprocket to mark (raised indention on Crank) before I proceed?

Nduetime
08-08-2013, 11:49 PM
One of the tutorials I'm using is AndyTN's found at AudiWorld (http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng35.shtml) and this is the photo he has for the Crank sprocket marking...

http://imageshack.us/a/img819/2917/9ov7.png

However, as you can see... it looks nothing like mine. I don't have that notch he is referencing. Maybe it's because mine is a AWM (2001.5?)

Also, guess it's safe to say that snub mount is pretty shot, no?

http://imageshack.us/a/img18/5912/o1f5.jpg

Nduetime
08-09-2013, 09:03 AM
I'm just gonna go for it. I will use the raised indention on the Crank sprocket as my reference point to mark my belt prior to removal.

walky_talky20
08-09-2013, 09:27 AM
I think this is what you want. 06A crank at TDC:

http://i1330.photobucket.com/albums/w575/walky_talky21/06A-TDC_zps67a0fec8.png

Nduetime
08-09-2013, 09:28 AM
Sweet.... Thanks walky!

Nduetime
08-09-2013, 10:38 AM
Wow... That lower thermostat housing bolt is a %#>*¥. That alternator prohibits full allen seating. No point in stripping that bolt, walking to auto parts store for a long t-handled allen wrench.

Nduetime
08-09-2013, 11:18 AM
$61 in reinforcements, two separate solutions to the problem. Unfortunately, neither of them involve ball end hex keys. Thank god for return policies.

Nduetime
08-09-2013, 02:51 PM
So the tutorials I'm following have completely different tensioner pulley than what the ECS timing kit came with and what was on the car before.

Can someone verify if the setup/orientation of the tensioner pulley looks accurate?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/10/tate7a3e.jpg

At what point does the nut on that tensioner pulley get tightened/spec'ed? What is the torque spec for it? The Bentley shows 20 ft-lb but it has shows it as a bolt.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/10/u9ype2u4.jpg

It also has the washer between the pulley and block not like how it was when I removed the old one, washer between nut and pulley (new existing condition, no photo from teardown.)

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/10/ytete9y6.jpg

Nduetime
08-09-2013, 04:56 PM
So in the video below, it's mentioned the roller should be at ~ 4 or 5 o'clock (1:30 mark of video.)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUMgiRDOq6M&feature=youtube_gdata_player

I assume that means the bent over tab that points back to the block? Therefore, it should look like this?

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/10/6unu4e4a.jpg

Nduetime
08-09-2013, 09:05 PM
Ended up running tensioner pulley this way...

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/10/3yza4e8a.jpg

Turned the crank multiple times, pulled the pin, slapped on the lower cover and crank pulley, another rotation of the crank and was left with this...

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/10/bana4any.jpg

And this...

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/10/petapyqu.jpg

I'll take my time putting it back together over the next two day.

walky_talky20
08-09-2013, 09:10 PM
It is an *adjustment*. Meaning you have to adjust it to be at the right position for your car. Looking at somebody else's photo will give you a ballpark idea of where it should kinda be, but it's not something you can just set "close" and move on.

The plate moves the tensioner eccentric pivot. This is necessary to dial in the hydro tensioner "protrusion" to the desired amount. You want the gap between the roller arm and the top of the hydro tensioner to be between 6-10mm. I shoot for 8mm.

Notably, very few B5's have this adjustment. Only *half* of 1 model year are so equipped. It would behoove you (goal for the day, use the word "behoove") to look at the B6 1.8T "AMB" timing belt DIY's as ALL B6 1.8T's are equipped with this eccentric roller situation.

Even so, you will notice that most of the DIY's don't go into very good detail as to how it actually works or how to properly set it. So here are some of my suggestions:

1) Play with it for a bit! Rotate the plate and see how it changes the the roller pivot point. Make sure you fully understand the mechanics of how it works, and how the adjustment gets locked in place.
2) Understand *why* the adjustment is there and what this adjustment is actually doing for you and your car. This is key.
3) Look at ECS's guide for the B6 (http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01bf511d4da3315c66902d6.r6.cf1.rackcdn.co m/B61.8TTimingBeltDIY.pdf). Again, it doesn't explain the process that well, but it has good visuals:

Here is how I would approach the adjustment process:
- Install belt at proper timed position.
- Install roller with nut only finger tight.
- Install hydro tensioner, do NOT remove the holding plate yet.
- Get a tool (Tool "A") that will reliably hold onto the adjustment plate
- Have a tool ready to measure the gap (Tool "B") of approximately 8mm. Make sure it is within easy reach.
- Have a tool ready to snug the nut (Tool "C"). Make sure it is within easy reach.
- Use Tool A to rotate the adjustment plate counterclockwise as far as it will go. This will take up all the belt slack and add some tension to the belt.
- Give enough force to simulate normal belt tension, but don't kill it. Hold it at that angle.
- It will basically look like this (zero gap), except the nut is not tight, you are manually holding the eccentric in this position to apply belt tension.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i243/itsmedavid/IMG_0011.jpg
- Pull the hydro tensioner holding plate out. Nothing major should happen.
- Grab tool B and check the tensioner gap. Should still be about zero.
- Slowly rotate Tool A clockwise, allowing the hydro tensioner pin to protrude. Slowly, I said. This isn't a race.
- Note: you rotate clockwise to "let out" the pin (increase the gap). Going the other way is *way harder* and takes forever. Don't be that guy.
- Stop rotating once the gap reaches 8mm.
- Drop Tool B and grab Tool C. Right quick-like.
- Snug the nut. Not full torque, but tight enough to lock it in place for now.
- Recheck your gap. Should still be 8mm unless you screwed something up. (Note: don't screw anything up).
- Rotate engine over - 2 full rotations of the crank.
- Check gap again. Should be 8mm or so.
- Yes? Great. Torque down the nut to 20 foot pounds.
- No? You can reset and try again. Takes a while, though.

And EDIT: In the time it took me to write that, you've gone and finished the actual job. Gap looks reasonable. Nice work.

Nduetime
08-09-2013, 10:21 PM
...very few B5's have this adjustment. Only *half* of 1 model year are so equipped. It would behoove you (goal for the day, use the word "behoove") to look at the B6 1.8T "AMB" timing belt DIY's as ALL B6 1.8T's are equipped with this eccentric roller situation.

Even so, you will notice that most of the DIY's don't go into very good detail as to how it actually works or how to properly set it.

Explains why I couldn't find much on the procedure when searching for b5 timing belt DIY.




So here are some of my suggestions...

That made so much sense. The ECS guide was also a nice visual. Thank you!

I think I'll end up tearing it back down to verify the 8mm gap. Didn't realize there was suppose to be a specific measurement needed.

One more question.... If the current gap is more than 8mm and it needs to be retracted, I'm assuming the whole tensioner needs to be removed and retracted on a bench vise? No other solution to achieving this?

walky_talky20
08-10-2013, 06:59 AM
Getting back to point #2, the adjustment is there to make sure there is plenty of "margin" left for the hydro tensioner to expand and take up slack as the belt ages and stretches. The adjustment is necessary to account for manufacturing variances in belt length and such. You can imagine if you put it all together and the tensioner pin is almost all the way extended, there is nothing left to take up the slack once the belt stretches a bit in 10k miles. Danger zone is what that is.

So this fancy adjustment is so you can precisely dial in the hydro tensioner extension at install day, leaving the most possible margin for future belt stretch. It's not critical that it be *exactly* 8mm. There is a range of 6-10mm that is acceptable, I believe. You don't want the gap too small, because you also need room for the belt to contract (it actually gets tighter when it gets hot).

It is important to note that this adjustment has nothing to do with belt tightness. You have no control over that as tension is applied by the hydraulic unit. The belt won't be "looser" if the gap is larger, or "tighter" if it's smaller. You will just have more or less travel left for future belt stretch. That's the name of the game, really. Future belt stretch.

You should be able to check and adjust the gap even with the entire front end of the car installed. You merely need the engine to be stopped (lol?) and the upper t-belt cover popped off. Yes, it is tricky, but possible. You recompress the hydro tensioner using the 8mm allen key hole on the roller assembly. Rotate counter clockwise with slow, even pressure for several minutes to compress it.

*Go slow. If you compress it in less than 2 minutes, you'll blow out the seals. Don't be that guy.*

Have somebody hold it in the compressed position. Then loosen the nut and adjust the eccentric plate. At this point you could crank it all the way left, then have your helper remove the 8mm allen tool. Rotate the eccentric clockwise until proper gap is reached, then tighten the nut. Without the working space provided by having the front end apart, you may not be able to quite as accurate. Alternatively, you could just 'guess and check' - adjust it and lock it in, then release pressure and see where you landed. Whatever works best for you.

It may also be good to emphasize the importance of torquing the nut properly. To spec and no further. If you over-tighten it, you can cause it's failure. And bad things will happen. (http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/551140-a4darkness-Chronicles-In-Absurdity)

All of that said (or typed, rather), your gap looks pretty good to me. Check it if you want, but I think you're set.

Nduetime
08-12-2013, 03:05 PM
Well, after a few painstakingly hot days in central California, I am happily 180+ miles removed. My TB job was successful. I would like to publicly thank Walky for all your help. In hindsight, the job wasn't that complicated. A little time consuming for someone who has never taking the front end off their B5 before. I learned a lot in the process and want to thank you for your additional insight the last couple of days. Your last two post reinforced the admiration I have for you. Not only are you knowledgable in what you write, you allow it to be a teachable moment. Those posts explained the tensioner exponentially more than my Bentley or anything else I could find online. Once more (yet, never enough,) thank you for all your help!

eviltech
08-30-2013, 06:06 PM
Sooo I marked everything and installed it but it seems like my cam sprocket is off by a little( like one tick placement). I think when I tighten up the tensioner it moved the cam up one notch. What do I do now? take the everything off realign the sprockets and reinstall?

Corrado_Guy
08-30-2013, 08:32 PM
Sooo I marked everything and installed it but it seems like my cam sprocket is off by a little( like one tick placement). I think when I tighten up the tensioner it moved the cam up one notch. What do I do now? take the everything off realign the sprockets and reinstall?

If it is one tooth off then you will need to move the belt back where it should be. It is hit and miss when you use the marking method, this only works if the last person put it on correctly. The timing marks don't always line perfectly either, you can have it just a little off depending on the belt you are using. Once you have everything set turn the motor over at least one or two full rotations and then check the timing marks and see if they line up. I have never used the paint method but if you do you should always check the timing marks first.

eviltech
08-31-2013, 03:09 PM
Thanks. I reinstalled the belt and got it to line up. Got everything back together. And when I started it, everything sounds fine + this slow tick noise. After a few minutes, it went away. Sooo... I think I'm good for now.....

walky_talky20
08-31-2013, 03:16 PM
Tick is just from one of the lifters bleeding down. Nothing to worry about. Good job.