View Full Version : Serious help needed will someone reply?

07-25-2013, 09:44 AM
I have 17544.P1136 Bank 1 Mixture adaptation (add) system too lean code.
I took my car to have boost checked and evap checked. They said I had no leaks and that the boost gauge was defective. I was also Informed that I was hitting around 7psi and they said that is a lot for an old turbo.
What is causing the code if I'm hitting hard on the roadway but this code keeps coming up?

note that this code started popping up after I put in a new MAF.

07-25-2013, 09:53 AM
what shop did you go to? they don't sound competent at all.

07-25-2013, 10:06 AM
what shop did you go to? they don't sound competent at all.

I agree.

07-25-2013, 11:18 AM
Could the new MAF be sending bad info to the ECU? Mby its seeing less air flow then there really is?

07-25-2013, 11:27 AM
based on the code, i would replace the maf and check for vacuum leaks.

07-25-2013, 12:05 PM
I took it to a shop that works on Foreign and domestic; they mainly work on bimmers.

I did this over eights times, that is why I took it the shop. As I could never find it myself even with help.
Replaced the maf not even a month ago, replaced the n75; around the same time and the car pulls hard, that is a plus.

Also note that It was very sluggish before the new maf and n75. Strange thing is that It did not pop a code.

Should I buy one of those dial boost gauges testers as I can't seem to find them the diy way?

07-25-2013, 02:44 PM
Is it a Bosch MAF? If not, I am going to say it crapped out on you already. A bad MAF makes you run lean. They can be cleaned. But if it is not a Bosch unit, don't waste your time.

And are you on stock mapping? If you are and your car is a 97-00, you are boosting what you should.

07-25-2013, 03:15 PM
Your additive lean code is not a huge deal. Additive = idle. The car is running lean at idle, but [presumably] running ok at part throttle because there is no code for that. I would look at VCDS Measuring Block 032 to see the entire fuel trim story, both Idle and Part throttle ("additive" and "multiplicative" trims). This will give you a better idea of where you leak may possibly be. For example, if you are running lean at idle (very positive idle trim) and very rich at part throttle (very negative part throttle trim) as shown in block 032, you can be pretty certain that your vacuum leak at idle is turning into a boost leak at higher revs. So you would look for a leak to be most likely at the intake manifold or connected hoses (the ones that see both vacuum and boost).

An additive lean code is usually caused by a relatively small vacuum leak. Chances are high that it is in between the MAF and turbocharger inlet. For example, it could be a rip in the turbo inlet pipe, or a leak in the EVAP hoses. A pretty common cause for an additive lean code is failure of the EVAP check valve that sits on top of the airbox.

Usually if a MAF is failing, it will begin to show troubles at the top end first (ie: low values at part throttle operation causing multiplicative lean code). So while possible, it is unlikely that your MAF is faulty.

07-26-2013, 07:59 AM
I can access this trim code by vag com pro by ecs? Also I have been trying to find the leak for months I had started at 8psi and moved to 5psi and couldn't find anything even with help (originally started at 10psi). Could it be that there is a leak in boost gauge?

Also could it be that the code is triggered by the evap canister not being plugged in causing a chain reaction now with the new MAF.

07-26-2013, 10:58 AM
Yes, according to the ECS website their V-checker pro can read all measuring blocks. That would include measuring block 032 which shows long term fuel trim data, which may be helpful in this case. For the price, I'd rather have a ross-tech cable, though. But the portable aspect of the v-checker is neat-o.

Please explain what you mean by "EVAP canister not being plugged in". What, exactly, have you done to the EVAP system? Be specific.

07-26-2013, 12:54 PM
In 2010 the code appeared followed by a month later a leak in the fuel tank due to an accidental hole. I took it to get it fixed and at the same time the evap. He made sure the tank did not have any holes as it was junkyard tank but he was unable to pin point as to whether or not that there was a leak in the evap lines or that canister went out (for reasons im not sure). Zink told me to take it to get smoked just to be sure as he didn't have one himself. So many year later I'm fixing it for once as I'm getting tired of doing it illegally.

Recently I took it to a shop as I could not for the life of me locate the damn hole with soap. They said they were not able to find any holes in either of them which asks the question; the canister was plugged. The good thing was that it was free.

07-26-2013, 02:52 PM
It said this

----------------------later said this

for the 032
what does this mean?
also would a leak in the oil pan be a cause?

07-27-2013, 08:48 PM

07-30-2013, 06:29 PM

07-30-2013, 07:09 PM
The first number is the idle trim. You are around 15% (which incidentally is the threshold for it to throw a code). So it is having to add 15% more fuel, over and above what the mapped value is, during idle in order to maintain the target air/fuel ratio (as read by the oxygen sensor). Acceptable value is 5% or so. 15% is too much. This high amount of trim can be caused be several different things:

- The ECU reading from the incorrect part of the fuel map due to incorrect sensor data. For example if the Mass Airflow Sensor is giving a lower value than actual, this would certainly be the case. MAF value lower than actual can be caused by dirty sensor or air leaks that allow air to enter the engine without going through the MAF (ie: "False Air").

- Actual Fuel delivery issue. For example partially clogged injectors, fuel filter, or low fuel pressure. Any of those will cause less fuel to be delivered than the ECU expects per a given injector pulse.

- Oxygen sensor is providing false information about the air fuel ratio.

Your part throttle (multiplicative) trim is 6%, which is a touch high, but reasonable and not on the verge of throwing any codes. Some of the causes above we can rule out. Because the car runs well, and the mult. trim is not large, we can assume that there is no actual fuel delivery issue. Any delivery problem that would affect the idle would be even more apparent at higher engine speeds. We've got plenty of fuel and the ability to push it to the engine.

Next up is MAF issues. A dirty MAF will cause high positive trims because it will read too low. But this, too, will be much more apparent at high engine speeds rather than low. Intake leaks on the other hand, are the exact opposite. At idle, even a small leak can be a significant part of the air requirement for combustion. As the engine speed is raised, that small leak becomes hardly nothing as the total amount of air is much larger in comparison to the tiny leak.

So ignoring a rare, but possible issue with the oxygen sensor, the most likely cause for your problem is a relatively small air leak at idle. Due to your positive mult. trim, iIt will most likely be found in a place that does NOT see boost pressure during operation. So that means either in between the MAF and the turbocharger inlet OR behind a check valve (for example, the entire EVAP system).

Do note that areas behind check valves are unable to be checked by "boost leak testing" as the check valve stops the pressure from reaching any possible leaks.

A good way to possibly locate your leak would be listen carefully at idle for air rushing noises through vacuum lines. Take a pair of pliers and pinch of various lines. If the idle changes noticeably on a line that really shouldn't be seeing flow at idle, that's probably your culprit. Of particular interest would be the EVAP lines near either fender, brake booster, PCV system, etc, etc.

I hope some of that is helpful. Good Luck.

07-31-2013, 08:29 PM
I hit every line in the engine bay and I wasn't able to find anything. I did find that my bolts were loose on the test pipe and will proceed to tighten them. I will proceed to clean the maf yet again.

I cleaned out the maf and tightened to the test pipe only to find that I need a new gasket on the turbo to exhaust manifold.

I could not find anything else in the engine bay. what else could it be? Should I replace the o2 sensors and get and get a new maf?

08-02-2013, 10:00 PM