View Full Version : Oil warning light engine running hot

06-20-2013, 06:23 PM
Well latest battle... for some reason my car wants to run hot. I am wondering if the after market thermostat is not opening up enough. I might throw my old on in, in hopes that will solve this.

My current problems are the car is running WAY too hot. Previous to rebuild, I was running always at the mid point of the gauges. Now I am two bar readings past that point and 1 shy of over heating when sitting in traffic. The car could not keep itself cool. I was running the AC to make sure the auxiliary fan was running. When the temps got to high, it most likely made my oil so thin that it caused the dash light to come on. I checked the oil level and it was good. I also replaced the cap on the coolant reservoir because I was worried it was not venting correctly, the tank looked like it was going to pop. When I removed the cap, fluid just boiled and boiled. I made sure to stay clear of it. I then refilled put on the new cap in hopes that would solve the problem. It did not.

So... what would you all do next. Toss in the old thermo and hope for the best or should I be checking other things.

Pickup screen is brand new in the pan, so that is not the problem with the engine oil pressure switch.


06-20-2013, 07:22 PM
Firstly, 2 marks above halfway is overheat. It should never go past half.

A - So it runs at halfway on the gauge when driving, but only overheats in traffic. Is that right?
B - With the gauge that high, running the A/C should not be necessary to engage the fan. It should already be on high speed even with A/C off. Was that the case, or not?
C - Are you running the factory viscous clutch fan? Was it working well, pulling hot air off the back of the rad? The clutches do fail sometimes.

T-stat is possible, but if A is correct, I'd be more inclined to think it's a fan problem.

06-20-2013, 07:28 PM
I have a spare fan, I might switch that out too

06-20-2013, 07:35 PM
Hmm. 4 questions marks. Yet zero answers. Sigh.

06-20-2013, 07:42 PM
I wonder whether my fan is pushing or pulling now?

06-20-2013, 07:51 PM
Sorry I am in class right now. I will test the stuff you asked.

06-20-2013, 08:23 PM
Oh, gotcha. No worries.

06-20-2013, 10:46 PM
Fan was bolted backwards on the viscus coupling. Its pushing rather than pulling. I never noticed it till now because it was 100 degrees and the traffic was bad. Well, looks like I get to rip the front end off again tomorrow. STUPID thing is, I just had the radiator out last week too. Sigh... my fault in the end.

Mad Cow
06-21-2013, 07:08 AM
You can reach the fan bolts no problem with one of these:

No need to take the lock carrier off.

06-21-2013, 06:37 PM
Sadly I get the front end off and the fan is facing the correct way with the writing of front in plain sight. So back to square one. I did change my coolant flange for a new one. Word of warning DO NOT PURCHASE ANY FORM OF AFTERMARKET COOLANT FLANGE!!!!! When I bought mine, I asked the source to get me a stock one. I was told it was stock. It had Meyle marked on the side. Which Meyle is a stock vendor. It is not the same. Save yourself the time and hassle and go down to the dealer and buy that part right from them for 25 dollars. When held in the hand they look close but there are differences that are apparent in the minor details and stoutness.

So.... How do I test to make sure my viscous coupling for the fan is still working.

To answer questions...

A - So it runs at halfway on the gauge when driving, but only overheats in traffic. Is that right?

Yes it does but it does rise a little above even when running on the highway. Not much though.

B - With the gauge that high, running the A/C should not be necessary to engage the fan. It should already be on high speed even with A/C off. Was that the case, or not?

I am not sure and the car is currently drained. I might just replace that switch as a preventive thing.

C - Are you running the factory viscous clutch fan? Was it working well, pulling hot air off the back of the rad? The clutches do fail sometimes.

How can I test that to see if it is functioning correctly? Or should i just throw the spare one I have on there and test that way?

Mad Cow
06-22-2013, 11:50 AM
Seems like your rad is clogged or your water pump isn't working properly then, even without a fan it shouldn't overheat once you get moving at a decent speed no matter how hot it is outside.

Good move on the flange though, you were smart enough to get rid of it before this happens, unlike some people... (mostly me) [:|]

06-22-2013, 06:33 PM
I am running the Meyle flange with no problem. Biggest difference was the OEM one has like a lip to keep the o-ring in place while the Meyle one doesn't. But the flange is really not an issue. And they are cheap at FCP.

Do you know what your oil temp gauge read when your coolant was overheating? I never received an oil overheat warning before, and I had my oil temps up to the middle mark and slightly higher (What lead to my engine build). Coolant stayed in the middle, though. Coolant system got so hot when I turned my engine off from my block boiling the coolant that is would burst. Happened like twice on me before I decided to park it and figure what was really going on. The logical reason was my piston rings were fried, blow by heated the oil, and basically explained the rest. After I built my engine, problem went away. Not at all saying that is your problem, but that was mine.

Personally, I would do a coolant flush, backwards flush the heater core, def swap out your t-stat (this alone could possibly be your issue), and see how things go from there. That is just what I would do if I were in your shoes.

06-23-2013, 03:56 PM
Replaced all the parts and changed the oil. Thats when things get worse.... I found metal attached to my magnetic drain plug and my oil warning light keeps on coming back on. What is weirding me out is the engines sounds absolutely perfect. WTF?

06-23-2013, 04:14 PM
Pictures of metal? How big?

06-23-2013, 05:28 PM
Well one thing is not as bad. The warning light turned out to be not oil but instead for the coolant. My brain confused the two because I am a little frazzled from seeing this on my magnetic drain plug.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/nynoah/20130623_175946_zps902ea998.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/nynoah/media/20130623_175946_zps902ea998.jpg.html)

06-23-2013, 05:34 PM
Wow those of kind of big. Not saying tear the engine down but definitely not good. as for your overheating issues, I'd start by trying to bleed air out and trying another tstat. How new is the pump?

06-23-2013, 05:52 PM
Redline I did a TOTAL engine rebuild no more than 5K miles ago. I mean rebuilt AEB head, New pistons, all new bearings, punched out 1mm over, rods, ARP main studs and headbolts, gates Tbelt all new everything. My worry is that is part of a piston ring. My only hope is that is a piece of metal that got in there somehow while the engine was being built.

06-23-2013, 06:10 PM
Could that be metal from my Cam Chain Tensioner? I don't think so. But that did just go bad.

06-23-2013, 06:26 PM
looks to be my like part of a ring. do you have access to a boroscope?

06-23-2013, 06:27 PM
do a compression check to see if its a cracked ring

06-23-2013, 06:33 PM
Just keep in mind there's a limited amount of things that magnetic material can come from in an engine, and most of it is bad if it ended up on the plug. But I have to agree, it looks like ring as far as I can tell

06-23-2013, 09:02 PM
Yeah. That isn't, looking too good.

06-23-2013, 09:06 PM
Great.... just Fing great. I can't win with this car. I had a shop build my bottom end because I feared me fucking it up in an area like.... the rings. They told me they would warranty stuff. But I just don't have the money to keep on putting into this car. I can also picture them saying its my fault somehow. Because well - I can't seem to win. The shop I had build the bottom end. They forgot to use my ARP main studs and thus had to do it two times over. So perhaps the double times that the rings were expanded or what ever caused this?

06-23-2013, 09:25 PM
They did not have to remove the pistons to place your ARP studs in. They would have had to had your block upside down on an engine stand, removed the OEM main bolts (hopefully they were OEM), leave crank in the journals, placed studs on, and checked for clearance once caps were bolted back down. Assuming that the engine was not ran, then the bearings could have been reused. If the car ran, then new bearings would have been needed and the crank would have needed to come back out for the replacement bearings on the cast block side. New rod bearings would be necessary also. Either way, the pistons with other half of the rod could (or should) have stayed in the cylinder.

If you have a warranty, use it. That is what they are there for. But personally I would not leave the building of my engine to any shop unless it was shipped from Integrated Engineering. They are the only ones I would trust doing my engine build. I know many other shops are competent, but so am I. And if I am going to pay a shop to do it, best to go with a shop that has the best rep at it. Otherwise, I can do it myself...which I did.

I would not even mess with it. Call the shop, tell them the symptoms, have it towed to them, sand have them fix it. This is not your goof if you did not build the block. It is theirs. Make them repair it.

Also, building an engine really isn't that difficult. Just don't cut corners, or you will learn the hard way like I did. Going to build Kneel's engine from the B6 section in a little bit. He dropped a valve, and wants to swap rods from his old block to his replacement one. Going to freshen it up with hone, new rings, and rod bearings (not really wanting to touch the crank). Not even going to charge him.

06-23-2013, 09:37 PM
No this shop (well according to them) took the old stock main bolts out and then everything else back out put the ARP main studs in and sent it out for a line bore. Well that is what they told me and charged me for. I was not happy then either. Its been one big giant headache.

06-23-2013, 09:46 PM

06-24-2013, 04:20 PM
Compression check done.... and thankfully all is well. I am at 180 to 175 across the board. Which next to new engine specs. So for now I don't think that was a piece of ring. So WTF is that? Part of a thrust bearing?

06-24-2013, 04:46 PM
it could very well still be part of ring. there are two compression rings on the pistons so its possible its still sealing find due to the other ring. id be looking to pull the head off when you get a chance. well tow it to the shop that built it and have them tear it apart.

06-24-2013, 05:05 PM
So still don't drive it huh... :/

06-24-2013, 05:49 PM
yea i wouldnt. unless you drive it and it blows up you can get another motor from the shop maybe haha

06-24-2013, 06:35 PM
Well here is the problem. I had them build the bottom end and check over the top end. I brought them the engine alone and they never worked on the car. So I picture them telling me to bring them the engine alone again. I pray they tell me they will handle it. I but I fear they would send me a bill later. I just don't trust shops to do the right thing. Tooooo many experiences otherwise. Including being shafted a 1000 from an old boss when I worked as an Audi Mechanic at a local shop. The reason I sent the bottom end to be built was I just did not want to stress that I missed something. I am smart enough to know that its easy to screw up precision stuff. Leave it to the guy who is OCD.

06-24-2013, 07:20 PM
GREAT NEWS!!!!!!! Thanks to S4NIK8!!!!!!!

I previously had looked at the cam chain tensioner and did not see anywhere where it was broken. S4NIK8 contacted me and pushed me to look further. I did and found the metal break off points - 2 of them to be exact. I looked at the cam chain tensioner before and could not see it. S4NIK8 said that he had seen how the pads would detonate and that would send metal into the engine. My pads were fine so that was not the issue. But I went to town on it and pried with a screw driver and found the break off point. Its at the base where the spring is. There are 4 points where the metal is thinner that are used to help pinch the spring. 2 were broken. This also explains the round indents in the metal.

Thank you everyone soooooo much. I have been feeling kinda screwed and now I have hope that I am not totally F'ed.

AUDIZINE for the win!!!!!

06-24-2013, 11:01 PM
good to hear you got it figured out. that was a close call