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Audixx4
06-17-2013, 06:39 AM
ANY INPUTS ARE APPRECIATED
Summer its here so I need to get my A/C up and running. Before wasn't a problem cool a/c not 100% ice cold but it worked. Now I have a 1year old baby and no way in hell I want to have her on my black b5 a4 with black interior sweating and suffering. So I wanna knock this problem down but I have very little experience with ac and a very tight budget at the moment so I can't at $500+ to have it fixed. The ac blows cool air but not ice cold.

This are the pictures I took of my readings.
This is with the car off:
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/17/y6ybyhas.jpg

This is with car on but a/c off:
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/17/ujuharu7.jpg

And this is the car and a/c on:
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/17/uda9ape3.jpg

No parts have been replaced yet but the plans are used compressor(from junk yard),new dryer and orifice tube. should this fix my problem, BTW I need to mention that compressor sometimes shuts itself off for few minutes and leaves us with warm air blowing . After I replace all of this parts should I have it vacum or how do I evacuate system With air compressor.

Audixx4
06-17-2013, 09:10 AM
58 views no Help :confused:

Audixx4
06-17-2013, 03:01 PM
Any help

wanna put lip stick in my dip stick?

glitchbox
06-17-2013, 03:24 PM
In for answer. I'm in the same boat

Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2

MooseWhip
06-17-2013, 03:31 PM
You do have a little A/C just not very cold?

Audixx4
06-17-2013, 03:51 PM
Yes. Thats exactly my problem.

Thanks for the response.

walky_talky20
06-17-2013, 04:00 PM
I think you're gauge set might be broken. At rest the pressures should be equalized.

The low side looks correct, but we can't tell what is happening on the high side. Probably just low refrigerant charge.

Audixx4
06-17-2013, 04:24 PM
I think you're gauge set might be broken. At rest the pressures should be equalized.

The low side looks correct, but we can't tell what is happening on the high side. Probably just low refrigerant charge.

Is 58psi correct on the low side?
And what do you mean "at rest"?
Thanks for the response.

walky_talky20
06-17-2013, 05:04 PM
When you turn the A/C off, the high pressure will continue to discharge through the orifice tube. After some time (less than a minute), the pressures will equalize. Both high and low side should read exactly the same. But according to your photos they do not. So that means one of the gauges is not accurate. Seeing as the low side gauge is reading within reason, and the high side gauge isn't moving at all - I would say the high side gauge is inoperative for some reason.

Is the gauge set "known good"? Can you test it on another car?

58psi is reasonable for the low side with A/C on. Maybe a little high. You didn't state ambient temperature, though.

Audixx4
06-17-2013, 05:50 PM
Yeah the gauges had been tested in other cars. And they work "good". That was one of the things I noticed at first, the low side does not move at all. Another sound that I have noticed is that when I turn the car off while the a/c is on there is a sound like there something discharging(or blowing) or like when you have a leak and i hear it coming from the vents.

MooseWhip
06-17-2013, 06:16 PM
Maybe the valve wasnt open? Do you notice any frost on the lines while its running?
But like walky said its probably just a low charge

walky_talky20
06-17-2013, 06:40 PM
The sound you hear when you shut the engine off is normal. That is the sound of the refrigerant pressure equalizing across the orifice. Discharging is a good way to put it. The fact that you heard this sound is excellent. That means you *definitely* have a pressure differential during operation. Your gauge just wasn't showing it. I'm with Moose, maybe the valve was closed?

You still didn't provide the ambient temperature when you had the gauges hooked up. But from what I see, I'd guess it was about 93F or so?

Hypothesis: Low Refrigerant charge causing low pressure on the high side.

I'll bet if you got that gauge to read, you would only be seeing 200psi or so, instead of 250-300psi like it should be at those ambient temps. You can probably recharge this thing yourself for $25 and be back in business.

Audixx4
06-17-2013, 08:21 PM
That was a sunny day with temperatures around 80`s. I will check the gauge again tomorrow And try to get another one to be 100% sure about the readings and that might save me hours from work and $$$$.
Guys thanks a lot for all the help I'll be back tomorrow with the results. Don't go anywhere :D
So do I have to open both valves simultaneously or open one and then close it and open the other one?

walky_talky20
06-17-2013, 09:17 PM
Actually, I don't think you need to open them to read the pressures. But something is up because you have a differential in operation but both gauges show 50psi. So that doesn't add up. Maybe the connection wasn't tight? Perhaps you can provide a video of the gauge behavior as you connect them to the car. It would be best if the car was stone cold when you did this. Heat from the engine will affect the static (resting) pressure. Connect them up. Should read zero, then snap to a reading on each gauge when connected. Then start the car and run A/C full blast and watch what the gauges do. Low side should come to 50 ish. High side should go up to 275 ish. Something like that.

MooseWhip
06-18-2013, 11:21 AM
I've never used Robinair gauges so I'm not sure with yours, but from a quick google search the hoses that come with the Robinair gauges dont have a valve on the connector that connects to the shrader valve on the A/C line. The snap-on set I have uses the valve on the connector like an A/C machine so Walky may be right you dont need to open any valves. Usually the valves you see on the gauge face in your photos open the lines on the sides that have no hoses on them (which will evacuate your a/c so I would not touch those lol)

Audixx4
06-18-2013, 12:16 PM
Justo bought new set and this are the reading. What should be the next step? Just found that the other one was faulty.
Numbers appear to be right from what walky said.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/19/jyzu6u9a.jpg

And this is the temperature on the vents.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/19/esy5u4em.jpg

Update: I just tried it on my sisters b5 Passat 1.8t and her a/c had around same numbers that mine but the Lowest temperature that came from The vents was 37 degrees :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:compared to mine that the Lowest is 58 degrees.

walky_talky20
06-18-2013, 12:40 PM
I knew it!

Pressures look good. Are these readings with the engine bay cold? What is the ambient temperature?

Based on these readings, I'm thinking we have a blend door problem or something. Have you scanned for codes in the HVAC module?

Audixx4
06-18-2013, 01:07 PM
I knew it!

Pressures look good. Are these readings with the engine bay cold? What is the ambient temperature?

Based on these readings, I'm thinking we have a blend door problem or something. Have you scanned for codes in the HVAC module?

Did you see that I updated post #16. No i haven't scanned the module I don't have vagcom but i read that there is a way to get in to it without vagcom. ambient temperature is about 82° and the engine bay is warm/hot. Just got home from work and the Autoparts.

walky_talky20
06-18-2013, 01:50 PM
And the condenser fan is operating with A/C on, yes? And it is pulling hot air off the back of the rad?

Here you go:
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/int.html

Audixx4
06-18-2013, 03:16 PM
And the condenser fan is operating with A/C on, yes? And it is pulling hot air off the back of the rad?

Here you go:
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/int.html

Thanks a lot. I finally got into the module and found value:
1c. Code 0.0
18c. Code 5.1, 5.2, 5.3, sometimes 5.4
19c. Code 5.0, 5.2
20c. Code 13.7, 13.8.

Yeah the condenser fan stays on when the a/c is on.

walky_talky20
06-18-2013, 09:07 PM
1c is the code readout. 0.0 means no fault codes stored.
18c is blower voltage. 19c is requested blower voltage. 20c is compressor clutch voltage.

I think I'd do the basic settings procedure to relearn the flap positions. Other than that, you may need to take it to professional to have it recharged to spec.

Audixx4
06-24-2013, 06:44 AM
1c is the code readout. 0.0 means no fault codes stored.
18c is blower voltage. 19c is requested blower voltage. 20c is compressor clutch voltage.

I think I'd do the basic settings procedure to relearn the flap positions. Other than that, you may need to take it to professional to have it recharged to spec.

How do you do the basic setting procedure to relearn the flap position. I have never done this before. I found that 20 could be the ambient temperature sensor behind the front bumper might not be reading my temperature correctly? What d you guys think?

walky_talky20
06-24-2013, 07:22 AM
I think you aren't understanding the code readout function of the on-board HVAC diagnostic mode.

From the Tech Article:

Press and hold the recirculation button. Then press the manual flow control up arrow. You should see a 1c. Press the temperature up ("+") or down ("-") buttons to select a code number. Then press the recirculation button again. The value should display.

1c = System malfunction - displayed as a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)
18c = Actual Air Blower voltage (Volts)
19c = Specified Fresh Air Blower voltage (Volts)
20c = A/C Compressor (A/C Clutch) voltage (Volts)

The results you posted are as follows:
1c = 0.0 (no trouble codes!)
18c = 5.1-5.4 volts (blower is on a low speed), close match to 19c which is good
19c = 5.0-5.2 volts = specified (requested) blower voltage
20c = 13.7 volts = full battery voltage to compressor clutch. This is good.

For basic settings, you connect to the HVAC module, click "Basic Settings". Choose channel 001 and click "Go". Flaps will begin learning. Once fields all turn to zeros, you can go to block 002 and do the same. According to this post, you want to do it for block 001 through 006:
http://forums.quattroworld.com/a4/msgs/45997.phtml