View Full Version : Brake Caliper Fell Apart :(
jimrobbington
06-01-2013, 10:20 PM
So I drove to work today, and everything was just great. I leave work tonight, and I stop at the first stoplight. As I'm sitting at this light, the brake pedal just melts to the floor. I pull over in a parking lot, and inspect.
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo109/jimrobbington/20130603_221217_zps2bbf8306.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo109/jimrobbington/20130603_224643_zps2ba7b89f.jpg
the rear caliper came apart, the piston is pushed all the way out and leading fluid. do you think the caliper needs to be rebuilt now?
sa_seahawker
06-01-2013, 11:30 PM
What happened to the upper caliper bolt?!
jimrobbington
06-01-2013, 11:33 PM
exactly :(
did you torque them correctly last time? improper install of something probably, I think this is a first in this forum.
Charles.waite
06-01-2013, 11:40 PM
So the slider pin was still there but the bolt holding the caliper to the slider was gone? Weird. Did you use blue locktite?
jimrobbington
06-01-2013, 11:46 PM
did you torque them correctly last time? improper install of something probably, I think this is a first in this forum.
I guess not. I can only blame myself, since I did the brakes last, but they have been fine for several thousand miles. seems strange that it would come apart now.
I'm wondering if I'll just be able to push the piston back in and everything will be fine, or if the caliper will need to be rebuilt or replaced now. plus I think I lost so much fluid on the way home, the whole system might need to be bled and fluid replaced anyway. fml
jimrobbington
06-01-2013, 11:47 PM
unfortunately, loctite was never suggested.
That really sucks man. Luckily you're ok and didn't get into an accident :).
Think maybe when you crashed a few weeks ago it made the caliper bolt loose and then repeated braking slid it out?
Ed Gein
06-02-2013, 12:08 AM
The yellow paint made them commit suicide
j/k
CorneliusRox
06-02-2013, 12:19 AM
JR, This is no big deal. If the piston didnt pop out, then they dont need to be rebuild. Not that you would have to anyways if the seals and boots were good. Just push it back together, then add a bolt, and some loctite. To be honest, I have never used Loctite on brake bolts (bikes, trucks, or cars), but it might not be a bad idea.
Let me know if you have any questions. As always, feel free to text me!
The yellow paint made them commit suicide
lolz
sa_seahawker
06-02-2013, 12:55 AM
Do you have any crazy ex-gfs/wives/baby mommas that have recently taken out a life insurance policy on you?
ivyspikes
06-02-2013, 01:05 AM
The yellow paint made them commit suicide
j/k
lmaooo hahahaa dood your an ass hahahaha but i ws thinkin why yellow?? i mean on an audi ... hmm idk..
B7Joe
06-02-2013, 05:33 AM
Sucks man. Wow, never seen that one before. My guess is that you forgot to tighten that top bolt. I have also never used loctite on a caliper bolt, but I guess I will going forward. Makes me want to check mine this morning!
jimrobbington
06-02-2013, 05:55 AM
lmaooo hahahaa dood your an ass hahahaha but i ws thinkin why yellow?? i mean on an audi ... hmm idk..
Cuz it looks good!
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo109/jimrobbington/2012-06-11114629.jpg
But really, I guess I am just lucky I didn't need to stop when I realized I had no brakes. It was a long slow trip home, but couldn't have done it without a manual transmission. Lol.
You think I will just need to bleed the one caliper or the while system?
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sa_seahawker
06-02-2013, 07:02 AM
Cuz it looks good!
Only if they say "PORSCHE" on the side...[up]
wildcat333
06-02-2013, 09:08 AM
Only if they say "PORSCHE" on the side...[up]
Carbon ceramic FTW!
A-BlacK_MambA-4
06-02-2013, 09:18 AM
Damn people being relentless on the painted calipers JR lol I like em though, but I think it's like Corey said. Looks like everything is Ok and the caliper piston just needs pushed back in and new bolt installed. Hopefully it didn't shear off or some shit. Never heard of that happening before but you never know.
CorneliusRox
06-02-2013, 10:28 AM
You think I will just need to bleed the one caliper or the while system?
You never opened the system, so basically, you need the tool that ratchets the piston back in (because it is a rear caliper), make sure the pad is still in good shape and there, and install a new bolt. No bleeding necessary. However it's never a bad idea to bleed the brakes! That fluid is only rated for three years max! Water gets into it over time and that makes bubbles when it gets hot which is the same thing as having air in the lines.
B72011
06-02-2013, 12:41 PM
Is blue loctite ok, or should red loctite be used?
Amarao
06-02-2013, 12:50 PM
So who did you piss off?
CorneliusRox
06-02-2013, 02:51 PM
Is blue loctite ok, or should red loctite be used?
blue would work.
Charles.waite
06-02-2013, 03:33 PM
You never opened the system, so basically, you need the tool that ratchets the piston back in (because it is a rear caliper), make sure the pad is still in good shape and there, and install a new bolt. No bleeding necessary. However it's never a bad idea to bleed the brakes! That fluid is only rated for three years max! Water gets into it over time and that makes bubbles when it gets hot which is the same thing as having air in the lines.
Well if enough fluid was lost so that the reservoir is empty, you really should bleed your brakes as air will have gotten into the master cylinder.
Jimbob, the bolt for the slider usually comes with some locktite style paste on the threads, at least when you buy them new. I would think when reinstalling them Its's a good idea to put a dab of blue locktite.
Red would make it very hard to separate the slider and bolt again so I wouldn't do that.
CorneliusRox
06-02-2013, 04:23 PM
Well if enough fluid was lost so that the reservoir is empty, you really should bleed your brakes as air will have gotten into the master cylinder.
Jimbob, the bolt for the slider usually comes with some locktite style paste on the threads, at least when you buy them new. I would think when reinstalling them Its's a good idea to put a dab of blue locktite.
Red would make it very hard to separate the slider and bolt again so I wouldn't do that.
I just assumed it hadnt gotten that low since it is just one piston and he didnt say anything about the brake light blinking. But this is very true.
jimrobbington
06-02-2013, 06:58 PM
Well, the brake light did flash. I checked the fluid reservoir this morning and the level had not gone below the drain tube, so I don't think air has come in from that side.
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jimrobbington
06-03-2013, 09:21 AM
Anybody got a part number for my missing bolt?
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Charles.waite
06-03-2013, 09:45 AM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carlson-14197-Rear-Caliper-Bolt-Or-Pin-/330889061609
This will work. Unfortunately, I'm not sure you can buy the bolt separately...
jimrobbington
06-03-2013, 10:07 AM
damn, I was hoping I could just run to the dealer and get the bolt on my day off tomorrow.
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Call Emich im sure they can look it up for you
schmiesus
06-03-2013, 10:51 AM
Well, the brake light did flash. I checked the fluid reservoir this morning and the level had not gone below the drain tube, so I don't think air has come in from that side.
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probably cause the system didn't feel back pressure.
Charles.waite
06-03-2013, 12:14 PM
damn, I was hoping I could just run to the dealer and get the bolt on my day off tomorrow.
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It might, but I think they usually just sell them in kits. I might have had one, but I tossed the old ones out when I installed my brakes. Sorry man.
ddillenger
06-03-2013, 12:29 PM
Remove the bottom bolt, go to Fastenal or any GOOD hardware store that has grade8 metric hardware and find one that matches.
typeslone
06-03-2013, 12:43 PM
damn, I was hoping I could just run to the dealer and get the bolt on my day off tomorrow.
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New rear pad sets from the dealer normally come with new caliper to carrier bolts, and usually they have a dab of threadlocker on them.
I don't stock any rear caliper parts at the dealer I work for, what I always do for customers who need the bolts is just take them out of a new pad set and sell them to the customer, then I order some bolts to throw back in the pad set. If your local dealer is friendly, they may be willing to do that for you.
If they won't help you, go to a good hardware store and get a M8x22 bolt, just make sure its grade 8 or higher.
CorneliusRox
06-03-2013, 01:40 PM
Remove the bottom bolt, go to Fastenal or any GOOD hardware store that has grade8 metric hardware and find one that matches.
Go to a good hardware store and get a M8x22 bolt, just make sure its grade 8 or higher.
^this
jimrobbington
06-03-2013, 04:28 PM
Thanks guys, I'll be trying to tackle this tomorrow.
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seal66
06-03-2013, 05:00 PM
I know why you didn't hit me back up for the log runs now. Man that sucks so badly.
Thanks guys, I'll be trying to tackle this tomorrow.
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AAA metric next to i25 and Santa fe. They have all the bolts
jimrobbington
06-04-2013, 01:32 PM
AAA metric next to i25 and Santa fe. They have all the bolts
Thanks for the heads up on this one. First place I could find that had one in stock.
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jimrobbington
06-04-2013, 07:11 PM
Ok, so I bled all four corners, til the clean fluid was coming out, and then a few more pumps after that. The pressure will build if you pump the brakes, but if you hold the pedal, it just melts to the floor. There is now SOME braking there, but it is not even in the safe range yet....
WTF?
CorneliusRox
06-04-2013, 07:58 PM
You need more bleeding then.
If you still dont have it cleared up after my wedding, I'll come down and help you.
Charles.waite
06-04-2013, 09:23 PM
Get a motive bleeder. You might need to actuate the abs too in case there are bubbles stuck in the pump.
jimrobbington
06-04-2013, 09:45 PM
Get a motive bleeder. You might need to actuate the abs too in case there are bubbles stuck in the pump.
Yeah, I read there is some sort of vagcom test you can run to do that....
CorneliusRox
06-04-2013, 09:54 PM
Get a motive bleeder. You might need to actuate the abs too in case there are bubbles stuck in the pump.
I used one and filling the res works better. A pressure bleeder puts a bunch of very tiny bubbles in the system.
Also, you can definitely use VAG-COM to actuate the ABS. I used to have the info for how to do it, but I am sure you could find it. Anyways, my cable was acting up and didnt work, so I went and slammed the brakes on some gravel like crazy, then bled them and a lot more bubbles came out of the front brake lines
Charles.waite
06-04-2013, 11:44 PM
I found the power bleeder makes the job 1000x easier. It doesn't put lots of tiny bubble in there the two times ice used mine. Considering how it works, its actually not possible to put bubbles in it unless you aerate the fluid before you pump it into the car. In which case I don't know, put the wrenches down, haha.
Not saying you did this Corey, just saying both times I've used it its been great. The real trick is getting all the bubbles out of the damn system. I've run 2L through my b6 and I suspect I've got some stuck in the abs lines.
Also another good thing to do is to compress the brake pedal halfway when doing the pressure bleed as it helps to pull bubbles of the master cylinder apparently.
CorneliusRox
06-05-2013, 06:30 AM
I found the power bleeder makes the job 1000x easier. It doesn't put lots of tiny bubble in there the two times ice used mine. Considering how it works, its actually not possible to put bubbles in it unless you aerate the fluid before you pump it into the car. In which case I don't know, put the wrenches down, haha.
Not saying you did this Corey, just saying both times I've used it its been great. The real trick is getting all the bubbles out of the damn system. I've run 2L through my b6 and I suspect I've got some stuck in the abs lines.
Also another good thing to do is to compress the brake pedal halfway when doing the pressure bleed as it helps to pull bubbles of the master cylinder apparently.
Next time you do it, look very close at the clear tube. I always noticed tiny bubbles, adn then when I finally said screw it and bled the old way, those bubbles must have formed together and they came out my bleeder. I guess if your pressure bleeder is 100% sealed, you get all the air out of the line from it to the master cyl, and you let it sit after pouring in the fluid for a long time so all the tiny bubbles from pouring it in rise to the top, then it'll probably work right. But the little filter/netting on the master cyl works great for getting those bubbles out when bleeding the old way.
jimrobbington
06-05-2013, 10:45 AM
So I let it sit over night. Now it will hold pressure well with the engine off, but as soon as the engine is on, mush. What does this mean?
Charles.waite
06-05-2013, 11:07 AM
Next time you do it, look very close at the clear tube. I always noticed tiny bubbles, adn then when I finally said screw it and bled the old way, those bubbles must have formed together and they came out my bleeder. I guess if your pressure bleeder is 100% sealed, you get all the air out of the line from it to the master cyl, and you let it sit after pouring in the fluid for a long time so all the tiny bubbles from pouring it in rise to the top, then it'll probably work right. But the little filter/netting on the master cyl works great for getting those bubbles out when bleeding the old way.
Your lines from the bleeder to the MC must not have been sealing 100%. Maybe a wrap of teflon would solve that? My line was solid fluid though, no bubbles at all.
CorneliusRox
06-05-2013, 04:35 PM
So I let it sit over night. Now it will hold pressure well with the engine off, but as soon as the engine is on, mush. What does this mean?
I think you still have air, just maybe not a ton. With the engine off, you feel it firm because you only get help from the brake booster a time or two.
Also, the pedal will eventually depress even when everything is perfect. I found this out after I bought a new master cylinder because of that.
Your lines from the bleeder to the MC must not have been sealing 100%. Maybe a wrap of teflon would solve that? My line was solid fluid though, no bubbles at all.
Could be, it had been run over once. lol But it held pressure