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lo-lyfe
05-02-2013, 12:43 PM
I finally managed to secure the majority of the parts for my build and figured it was time to start a thread. This journey began on June 8th, 2012, when I ordered my Stg2+ tune from Josh, along with a set of Forge 007 DVs. 034 DPs and exhaust followed with ER SMICs not too far behind. Loved the car and the power but like many, soon got bored of it and decided to go Stg3. My approach to the build was to devote just as much attention to the suspension in order to improve the handling of the car as I planned to devote to the engine for the purpose of power and performance. Being a fan of “Best Motoring International”, I noticed that Japanese tuners stressed focusing on the complete package- handling and performance- when modifying cars and I wanted to follow a similar philosophy.

Big thanks to Max @ 034 for being instrumental in helping me source all the necessary parts for this build. Appx. 95% of the parts on the list have been acquired through 034. IMO, dealing with a single vendor with whom you have a solid relationship eliminates a lot of the stress associated with builds of this type. Nice to have someone dependable you can count on. Thanks also go out to Josh @ JFonz and Doug @ Frankenturbo for excellent customer service and their willingness to offer opinions and advice. Lastly, a thank you to the guys @ AutoLab of SCS (Randy, Chad, and Chris) for letting me use one of the bays and for offering a helping hand- not to mention pulling the motor, breaking down and reassembling the bottom-end—you know, the minor stuff…

Parts List:

Engine:
IE 154mm x 21mm connecting rods
034 glyco main bearings
034 rod bearings
Inconnel exhaust valve- single groove
Intake valves- single groove
Valve spring set- high lift springs titanium retainers
Valve keepers
Gaskets: cylinder head, exhaust manifold, intake manifold, rear main seal
ARP main stud kit
Thrust washer bearing set
Piston ring set
Timing belt kit- roller, tensioner, thermostat, Gates timing belt, h2o pump, tensioner level, crankshaft seals
SRM bipipes
Oil feed lines from Induktion Motorsports
Mahle Pistons- Stock specs

Turbos:
F21 BT/E from Frankenturbo

Intake:
X34 CAI with heat shield
85mm MAF housing
RS4 Silicone MAF hose

Exhaust:
034 Downpipes
034 Catless single

Intercoolers:
ER SMICs with CF shrouds

Fueling:
Bosch ev14 85lb injectors
034 fuel rail
044 fuel pump w/hardware and adapters
AEM 2.7T Meth Kit
E85 Tune by JFonz

Transmission:
JHM short shifter trio
JHM cross rod
CM FX400 6-puck ceramic clutch
034 Aluminum LWFW

Suspension:
034 Adj rear control arms
034 adj sway bar end links
034 adj rear tie rods
034 Rear sway bar kit with billet brackets
Stern adj front upper control arms
Vogtland coilovers

Chassis:
034 Density motor mounts
034 Motorsport tranny mount
034 Snub mount with bracket
F&R Billet subframe bushings
Thor skid plate
Apikol rear diff mount
034 rear crossmember
JHM DTS

Wheels:
Rota Grid 18x9.5 5x112 38ET
Raceland 10mm and 15mm spacers

Misc. Interior/Exterior
Sparco r323 steering wheel
NRG CF fixed-back bucket seats
VIS Invader CF hood
NRG Gen 2.5 quick release hub

Some pics of the parts:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8542/8702860286_8eab7904b8_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8544/8702860754_827906836d_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8393/8701741301_919b2a0506_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8560/8701740269_72d72d0706_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8535/8702864200_0d725d01c7_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8542/8701743299_5b50fd6466_c.jpg

Still waiting on the turbos, meth kit, fuel lines, catch can, FPR, and injectors.

s4chiro
05-02-2013, 12:48 PM
when did they release the new F-21 B/T/E? Though they just started testing them?

inzunzar
05-02-2013, 12:50 PM
interested in updates !!

S4 00 2.7
05-02-2013, 01:11 PM
In for updates.

034Motorsport
05-02-2013, 01:11 PM
Looking awesome. You've been a great customer to work with as well. This is one big overhaul and rebuild, not much original going to be left on the car!!!

Can't wait to hear your impressions with all the new suspension stuff and everything else once it's up and running!

[up]

rtl5009
05-02-2013, 01:22 PM
What's the difference between a reg f21 and a BT/E? I want specs and/or data in the form of numbers

Vinchenzo51
05-02-2013, 01:31 PM
Fuck thats a lot of new parts.

I can't help but picture Vin Diesel saying "not a bad way to spend ten thousand dollars"

lo-lyfe
05-02-2013, 05:58 PM
Maybe Doug can chime in with the specs on the F21 BT/Es. As far as I know they come with ported turbine housings and inlets to open up flow for e85. The thrust bearings have also been upgraded. Pretty sure I will be one of the first cars running the BT/Es and putting them through some hell, for sure. The AU Tuning shop car will be the other initial car to run the BT/Es, if I'm not mistaken.

lo-lyfe
05-02-2013, 06:02 PM
Final bath and detail before she goes in for some int/ext TLC...

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8140/8702458923_96d0a98579_c.jpg

Can't wait to finally get rid of the monster truck status!

rtl5009
05-02-2013, 06:04 PM
How much boost do u plan on running for "hell" 28 lbs?

lo-lyfe
05-02-2013, 06:07 PM
How much boost do u plan on running for "hell" 28 lbs?

lol, no more than 30 psi. By "hell" I meant I plan on tracking the car at least once a month during the season.

rtl5009
05-02-2013, 06:13 PM
Good oil and proper cooling on the track at "normal" boost levels won't be to hard on the turbo.

High fan speeds? Yea that's hard on it.

lo-lyfe
05-02-2013, 06:27 PM
Looking awesome. You've been a great customer to work with as well. This is one big overhaul and rebuild, not much original going to be left on the car!!!

Can't wait to hear your impressions with all the new suspension stuff and everything else once it's up and running!

[up]

Thanks Max. Can't wait either, especially going from a stock suspension to this.

PS- Will be hitting you up next week for the rest of the parts.

lo-lyfe
05-02-2013, 06:32 PM
Good oil and proper cooling on the track at "normal" boost levels won't be to hard on the turbo.

High fan speeds? Yea that's hard on it.

[up]- BTW, gotta say thx for a thread you posted a while ago about a bottom-end build. Used that as a guide for figuring out what gaskets I should replace while the engine is apart. Also used it as a reference for the machining work I'm having done.

RolledMySTi
05-02-2013, 07:00 PM
Looks like it is going to be a hell of a build. I would get so antsy with all those shiny new parts sitting around.

jibberjive
05-02-2013, 07:56 PM
Looks like its going to be killer. Subscribed.

FlyboyS4
05-02-2013, 08:05 PM
As far as I know they come with ported turbine housings and inlets to open up flow for e85.

I realize you're not the source behind the E85 flows more, and E85 allows the turbo's to boost faster concepts, but why is it that when using pump gas and methanol injection it's recommended that the methanol injection not be done too soon so as not to hurt spool up, yet the added mass from E85 supposedly helps with spool up? Why does adding extra fuel with ethanol help performance but adding extra fuel with methanol hurt performance?

03redgti
05-02-2013, 08:25 PM
awesome build..jealous

S4 00 2.7
05-02-2013, 09:08 PM
Looks like it is going to be a hell of a build. I would get so antsy with all those shiny new parts sitting around.

X2

Doug@FrankenTurbo
05-02-2013, 09:25 PM
Why does adding extra fuel with ethanol help performance but adding extra fuel with methanol hurt performance?

Because only the former generates significantly more exhaust mass than ordinary gas fuel. A water/methanol injection system is adding only 12-18 percent (http://www.customperformancesolutions.com/waterinjectioncalc/), half of which is water.

aysix
05-02-2013, 09:27 PM
I want specs and/or data in the form of numbers

^^

uponone nogaro
05-03-2013, 04:26 AM
Looking like a nice build subscride also

lo-lyfe
05-03-2013, 01:31 PM
Doing some quick maintenance work before pulling the motor since I won't be getting to that until Monday or Tuesday. Does anyone know if Empi axles now come pre-lubed? I know in the past Empi required you pull down the boot and lube the CV joint but I noticed mine did not come with grease packets. Also, looks like there is grease in there already....

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8536/8704613241_2733ab6191_c.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8405/8704612763_0d60ddbb16_c.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8409/8704610813_984be50f67_c.jpg

FlyboyS4
05-03-2013, 03:29 PM
Because only the former generates significantly more exhaust mass than ordinary gas fuel. A water/methanol injection system is adding only 12-18 percent (http://www.customperformancesolutions.com/waterinjectioncalc/), half of which is water.

Ok, but there is still mass being added (with a w/m injection system) which apparently helps to spool the turbo yet runs contrary to the advice I've heard that one shouldn't start injecting the w/m mix too soon so as not to hurt spool up. The argument seems to be that adding mass hurts, up to a point, at which time it becomes a benefit.

My personal experience has been that injecting w/m very early on doesn't degrade spool up.

topquarkpc
05-03-2013, 08:12 PM
That looks about 'ten thousand dollars'...
What's the final tally? Just curious because i didn't add mine up and want to know for a reference... Yours look about what I have including Thor plate... It saved my oil pan several times...I can tell by the gauges that are on it...lol

lo-lyfe
05-04-2013, 07:05 PM
That looks about 'ten thousand dollars'...
What's the final tally? Just curious because i didn't add mine up and want to know for a reference... Yours look about what I have including Thor plate... It saved my oil pan several times...I can tell by the gauges that are on it...lol

Agghhh. Hate looking at that spreadsheet, lol. Let's see....$22k but that includes turbos + tune, exterior mods, interior mods, all engine/transmission/chassis/suspension parts and wheels/tires.

lo-lyfe
05-07-2013, 07:31 PM
Received this today. Have to say, my favorite truck is Brown. Hopefully the turbos and injectors will be here by the weekend. Plan is to pull the motor over the weekend, providing I can secure a bay at the shop. Once the car is under the knife the LCD cluster will be going out for repairs.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7299/8718300417_05ec2184af_c.jpg

Doug@FrankenTurbo
05-07-2013, 09:31 PM
A few pictures of the turbos in question. Ported hot-side inlets and higher-flowing "full back" turbine rotors.


http://frankenturbo.com/web-content/image_hosting/F21BT-E_0.jpg

http://frankenturbo.com/web-content/image_hosting/F21BT-E_1.jpg

http://frankenturbo.com/web-content/image_hosting/F21BT-E_2.jpg

http://frankenturbo.com/web-content/image_hosting/F21BT-E_3.jpg

jibberjive
05-07-2013, 11:20 PM
Interesting. Is the cold side the same as the F21's?

rtl5009
05-08-2013, 04:48 AM
Thanks for posting pictures Doug

topquarkpc
05-09-2013, 06:16 AM
Agghhh. Hate looking at that spreadsheet, lol. Let's see....$22k but that includes turbos + tune, exterior mods, interior mods, all engine/transmission/chassis/suspension parts and wheels/tires.
Hear ya... I'm glad I didn't keep an official tally...no need for the wify to find out...lol

lo-lyfe
05-09-2013, 07:42 AM
Hear ya... I'm glad I didn't keep an official tally...no need for the wify to find out...lol

Lol, yes! My build started out as a covert op, then the bribes to wifey began to match the part $ totals. Later I learned that since we've been married <1 yr, I can still file for an annulment and held her in check with that threat (somewhat).

AudiSportB5S4
05-09-2013, 09:29 AM
Looks great... That is a ton of new parts, wow.

I'll probably go the Franklin route when my K04s don't want to blow air anymore.

lo-lyfe
05-10-2013, 05:56 PM
Last few pieces of the puzzle. If everything works out I will be pulling the motor tomorrow...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7336/8727590656_bab1f66e0e_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7383/8727590976_9b07c5db1e_c.jpg

TweetsS4Estate
05-10-2013, 06:05 PM
Last few pieces of the puzzle. If everything works out I will be pulling the motor tomorrow...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7336/8727590656_bab1f66e0e_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7383/8727590976_9b07c5db1e_c.jpg
Sweet! I can't wait to see some races go down this summer!

lo-lyfe
05-10-2013, 06:18 PM
Looks great... That is a ton of new parts, wow.

I'll probably go the Franklin route when my K04s don't want to blow air anymore.

The way you take care of your car that may never happen, lol

lo-lyfe
05-10-2013, 06:21 PM
Sweet! I can't wait to see some races go down this summer!

I will def be making an appearance on Woodward Ave once this build is done and the car is (hopefully) running.

TweetsS4Estate
05-10-2013, 06:35 PM
The way you take care of your car that may never happen, lol

Or as of late the lack of miles he puts on it. Ps Yusko, I love how whenever you see a modded car not lowered you comment on it. Hahaha what the hell brah!?

lo-lyfe
05-10-2013, 07:49 PM
Correction:


Or as of late the lack of miles he puts on it. Ps Yusko, I love how whenever you see a modded car not yet lowered you comment on it. Hahaha what the hell brah!?

[:)]

TweetsS4Estate
05-10-2013, 08:02 PM
Correction:



[:)]

Lol waiting for his reply, should be a good one..

AudiSportB5S4
05-11-2013, 06:36 AM
The way you take care of your car that may never happen, lol

Lol, ah shit!


Or as of late the lack of miles he puts on it. Ps Yusko, I love how whenever you see a modded car not lowered you comment on it. Hahaha what the hell brah!?

Haha I don't make too many comments about that! It's also a running joke I feel on the internet to say "lower it" regardless of the cars height. Shit can be slammed all hella flush style and someone will come in and advise to go lower :-p. If you mean most recently from BritishTurbo's thread, well that was just funny to me... Car must bounce like a fat lady when he launches it. I'm no go low advocate though - I like to see a functional height where the control arms are still somewhat flat and helps the cars handling more than hinder it. I couldn't imagine dealing with rubbing just to have a look going on... Or that guy who cut his strut towers - haha.

DiscoPotato
05-11-2013, 07:15 AM
All those new parts is a beautiful thing.

Good luck with the build. It looks well rounded.

TweetsS4Estate
05-11-2013, 08:45 AM
Haha I don't make too many comments about that! It's also a running joke I feel on the internet to say "lower it" regardless of the cars height. Shit can be slammed all hella flush style and someone will come in and advise to go lower :-p. If you mean most recently from BritishTurbo's thread, well that was just funny to me... Car must bounce like a fat lady when he launches it. I'm no go low advocate though - I like to see a functional height where the control arms are still somewhat flat and helps the cars handling more than hinder it. I couldn't imagine dealing with rubbing just to have a look going on... Or that guy who cut his strut towers - haha.

Or like my silver car when you commented on it 3 times and even had hardon/mental/my brother calling it "gravedigger". Haha, good times

uponone nogaro
05-19-2013, 03:59 AM
bump any up dates

lo-lyfe
05-19-2013, 12:33 PM
**Update** Shop was running behind as the head mechanic was out sick a couple of days. Couldn't secure a bay until this coming Monday. Plan to have the motor out, broken down, and on the way to the machine shop by Tuesday. Plenty of pics to follow.

lo-lyfe
05-19-2013, 12:38 PM
All those new parts is a beautiful thing.

Good luck with the build. It looks well rounded.

Thank you

uponone nogaro
05-19-2013, 02:48 PM
good to hear wanna see lots pics ;]

nefkntym
05-19-2013, 05:04 PM
Looks like a very rounded setup. All the new parts look great.

Subscribed.

uponone nogaro
05-21-2013, 03:00 PM
Any.up.dates this looks.to.be a good.build whAt type Of.power will.you.be putting.down

lo-lyfe
05-21-2013, 06:56 PM
Managed to get the motor out today. Its amazing how strong the power steering line and fitting both are. The power steering line managed to hold the partial weight of the motor as we dropped the front subassembly. It bought us enough time to figure out we forgot to disconnect it. Overall, the pull went fairly smoothly with no hiccups, other than the driveshaft bolts being partially seized. Lots of cleaning up to do with some Simple Green; plenty of oil buildup from leaky feed lines and improper application of sealant on the gaskets. Plan for tomorrow is to start breaking down the motor and drop the rear subassembly. On to the pics...

Relieved to find the pulleys were all in decent shape with no apparent stress fractures

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8411/8777943262_901b037a22_c.jpg

Dirty motor. Lots of oil and grime buildup. Will receive some TLC shortly

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2830/8771388871_87ce04f729_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2862/8771390759_929cf06fb5_c.jpg

One minor unpleasant surprise. I knew the passenger side inner CV joint was bad. Apparently so too is the driver side outer...

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8127/8771392481_fa0c108b34_c.jpg

Motor is out. Engine bay doesn't look too bad...

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3763/8777946614_a7269d1a6a_c.jpg

As she sits currently...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7307/8771383815_3228550d84_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3704/8777961126_ebc35c0215_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2834/8777948204_f7d362798e_c.jpg

lo-lyfe
05-23-2013, 05:15 PM
Removed motor from the subassembly. The subassembly will be getting a refresh tomorrow: cleaning and paint.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7366/8807834314_a0d995b49d_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3701/8797247921_aca088163a_c.jpg

Tranny separated from the engine. Clutch and flywheel are both in better shape than expected.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7287/8807825896_2ede65cc9c_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3715/8807824238_470348e961_c.jpg

Valve covers are off

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5454/8807836024_b68dc67c13_c.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5454/8807836024_b68dc67c13_c.jpg

Motor is up on the engine stand

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3727/8807844458_3fe3ebf779_c.jpg

Turbos are in near pristine condition. No shaft play whatsoever. Would have lasted a while longer, despite the fact I was starting to push the car a bit more. But I was getting tired of the Stg2+ power and had too many new parts sitting at the house.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2813/8797265965_67ff924249_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3714/8797267737_6894936655_c.jpg

Out with the old and soon in with the new...

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5335/8807845980_f72ebdc59a_c.jpg

Plan for tomorrow is do drop the rear subassembly. Its basically apart: axles are off the differential, control arms and strut towers are loose, sway bar and end links have been removed, brake lines disconnected, etc. Once dropped I plan on cleaning it and throwing on a few coats of chassis paint. Then both the front and rear subassemblies will be ready for new parts. I'm hoping we have the engine broken down and off to the machine shop around noon or so.

lo-lyfe
05-23-2013, 09:06 PM
A few parts getting prepped for paint...

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2885/8798990479_e9a091b651_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8139/8809571328_42346f76a6_c.jpg

zatch_303
05-23-2013, 11:15 PM
[drool][wrench] good progress!

lo-lyfe
05-24-2013, 08:34 PM
Didn't make as much progress today as I had hoped. Nasty stuff when the outer CV boot rips and spews crap all over the calipers, strut tower, and hub. Spent a good portion of the day over the parts washer bin. Heads are off, however.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8533/8809875943_45cc43fff1_c.jpg

Thankfully I'm going to be able to keep the stock pistons. Just replace the rings, which I already have.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3799/8809874619_958c3a7234_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7328/8809871725_5752ab98c4_c.jpg

Still, quite a lot of sludge tho. Hope to have the block stripped and cleaned tomorrow. Painting Sun and Mon and rear assembly Tues-?? If I can get the motor out to the machine shop by end of day tomorrow I'm hoping they can get going on it right after the holiday weekend.

Hmmm....what is this????

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7389/8809873221_37ee065853_c.jpg

If you guessed animal fur you're probably correct. At least that's what we think it is. Prolly some rodent had worked its way in there and set up shop during the cold months. Definitely not something you want to see in your engine.

Ribbie
05-24-2013, 09:26 PM
By pulleys. I hope you mean the timing pulleys. A few guys have found them in less than "worthy" condition.

Nice build, as others have said well rounded. Good luck.

1gcrazy
05-24-2013, 09:49 PM
How did you get a dealership to just "let you have a bay"?!

lo-lyfe
05-25-2013, 06:04 AM
By pulleys. I hope you mean the timing pulleys. A few guys have found them in less than "worthy" condition.

Nice build, as others have said well rounded. Good luck.

Thanks. Yes, I meant timing belt pulleys.

lo-lyfe
05-25-2013, 06:09 AM
How did you get a dealership to just "let you have a bay"?!

The car is at a local shop, not a dealership. The shop is rebuilding the motor and rolled a bay rental into the cost of the rebuild. Very thankful to the ownership for being willing to do that. Makes the tear-down so much easier when you can put the car up on the lift and have air tools to work with. We've all done the driveway/jackstands route and know how much tougher it is. I did my whole exhaust (DPs included) on my back with my nose pressed into the undercarriage. Did my ICs partially in the rain. Not fun stuff.

Mr. Merk
05-25-2013, 08:06 AM
you bastard

TweetsS4Estate
05-25-2013, 08:31 AM
How did you get a dealership to just "let you have a bay"?!

If that was what actually happened it would be a very interesting story..

Tec_Nine
05-25-2013, 08:34 AM
If that was what actually happened it would be a very interesting story..

He "took care of managment" if you know what I mean ;-)

lo-lyfe
05-25-2013, 08:29 PM
you bastard


He "took care of managment" if you know what I mean ;-)

Lol! No, seriously the truth is I take both my cars to that particular shop and have given them plenty of business in the past. Management was willing to take up the challenge of a performance-type build and I was in no way going to turn down being able to put the car on a lift and take advantage of years of automotive expertise.

lo-lyfe
05-25-2013, 08:37 PM
Today we finally managed to completely disassemble the motor. Was hoping the main studs were all of equal length, as this is what I had gambled on when purchasing the ARP main stud kit from 034. Found out the studs are unequal length, so tomorrow I will Fedex the studs back to 034 for an exchange. Not a complete loss of time; the coils and coil brackets that arrived this afternoon were black instead of the red/aluminum ones I wanted, so the parts had to be shipped back regardless. Hoping for a quick turnaround on the shipment.

Again spent most of the day at the parts washer. Its amazing how much oil and grime can accumulate over 150k+ miles. Almost every part that came off the engine and suspension had to be degreased, thanks to leaky gaskets, seals, feed & return lines, and damaged CV boots. Did paint the front subassembly and plan to do more painting tomorrow/Monday. Pics forthcoming...

lo-lyfe
05-25-2013, 08:59 PM
Quick pic of the cleaned engine bay. Took a couple hours of work and about 4 gallons of degreaser. IMO, its a necessity; I hate putting clean parts on a dirty car.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2882/8835560395_4e23af770e_c.jpg

hendrj5689
05-25-2013, 09:26 PM
Quick pic of the cleaned engine bay. Took a couple hours of work and about 4 gallons of degreaser. IMO, its a necessity; I hate putting clean parts on a dirty car.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2882/8835560395_4e23af770e_c.jpg


Big difference! I would surely be the same way as you though, dirty bay = no good.

Delmed83
05-25-2013, 10:57 PM
Awesome thread!!! I just read your original post and I think you made such a good choice. Replace EVERYTHING. If I had the $$$$$, I would do it the same way. Maybe sometime in the future. It was very cool to see the pics of how you pulled the engine along with the whole subframe and everything still attached. Can't wait for more updates / pics!!

Whenever I'm under the car, I always look at those subframe bushings and wonder if anyone ever replaces those.

lo-lyfe
05-26-2013, 09:19 PM
Took a break from the shop today, but still managed to do some prep work for painting. Finished pieces:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7330/8847417461_a4dc26a14a_c.jpg

Went with wrinkle black for the y-pipe as the color choice will match my SRM bi-pipes, which are also wrinkle black, and the 034 x34 CAI, which is predominantly black as well. The intake manifold and valve covers are cast iron metallic whereas the ICM delete kit includes aluminum bracket and red coils. The fuel lines are braided silver with black fittings, complementing the aluminum fuel rails. My intention was to keep the look simple, limiting the color palette to mostly black and shades thereof. Excited to see the finished product.

lo-lyfe
05-26-2013, 09:23 PM
Awesome thread!!! I just read your original post and I think you made such a good choice. Replace EVERYTHING. If I had the $$$$$, I would do it the same way. Maybe sometime in the future. It was very cool to see the pics of how you pulled the engine along with the whole subframe and everything still attached. Can't wait for more updates / pics!!

Whenever I'm under the car, I always look at those subframe bushings and wonder if anyone ever replaces those.

Thanks man, appreciate it. Yeah I figured dropping both subframes was the easiest way to do all the suspension upgrades. Plus, I wanted to sand the rust and repaint everything. Tedious work though, but I think the end result will be worth it.

lo-lyfe
05-27-2013, 11:38 AM
Finishing up the last bit of painting for today before the rain hits; one knuckle to go and done! Refurbished the calipers with Dupli-color silver ceramic. Did the same thing last year and was surprised how quickly the rust set in. Crappy Michigan winters and road salt did most of the damage. This time I coated the calipers with some clear after applying the paint. We'll see if this makes any difference in longevity.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2807/8856339467_0f8dc0b230_c.jpg

Once the remaining knuckle is completed the front subassembly will be done. Then its just a question of putting everything back together, including the new parts, and moving on to the rear. Waiting on bushings for the rear lower control arms and hoping the parts, and some others, arrive before the weekend.

Doug@FrankenTurbo
05-27-2013, 02:23 PM
Wow for the calipers. They look great.

lo-lyfe
05-27-2013, 09:39 PM
Wow for the calipers. They look great.

Thanks Doug. She's getting there...

Tec_Nine
05-28-2013, 10:01 AM
Nice, keep up the good work

Ribbie
05-28-2013, 05:14 PM
The calipers are bright! Nice look, and good thing you cleared them. Is the clear capable of handling the heat?

lo-lyfe
05-28-2013, 06:38 PM
By far my most hated part of the build:

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5336/8872672733_99b7ce63e3_c.jpg

Some pics of the motor before heading out to the machine shop:

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3681/8873280658_921fbc6712_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7431/8872666917_0e60a522ea_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3798/8872669769_3c3b4218f2_c.jpg

All parts stacked and placed in baggies with corresponding notes. Don't want to end up with missing pieces during reassembly.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7391/8872671117_235d8bd290_c.jpg

Only engine internals being retained are the pistons, the crank, the camshaft, and main bearing caps. Everything else will be replaced. Anyone in a bind looking for a replacement part hit me up, I may just have it laying around somewhere...

lo-lyfe
05-28-2013, 06:44 PM
Nice, keep up the good work

[up]


The calipers are bright! Nice look, and good thing you cleared them. Is the clear capable of handling the heat?

Caliper paint is Duplicolor silver; I think its the clear coat that brings out the brightness. The clear is Duplicolor high heat engine paint, so I would assume it can handle some intense temps. We shall see how it holds up. In any event, it only has to last the summer. In the fall I hope to be ready for a BBK.

lo-lyfe
05-29-2013, 05:22 PM
Heads are disassembled and off for some new valves, springs, keepers, etc. Block is riding along for a hone as are the pistons and rods for assembly. Hoping to have everything back by early next week. In the meantime, that rear suspension is calling my name....and lets not forget some more parts cleaning.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5346/8884337164_9445d0cede_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8131/8883719679_d157e7ea39_c.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5441/8883722543_4670fba31f_c.jpg

lo-lyfe
06-01-2013, 03:31 PM
Rear differential and driveshaft out...

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8545/8916863686_df578c6bf7_c.jpg

Both knuckles out with axles attached. The lower eccentric bolts were a true PITA. Rusted to the point that the head of the bolt sheared right off. Managed to punch the bolts through after applying some serious heat---and a 2' pry-bar

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5459/8916862044_6c11285307_c.jpg

And finally the bare rear subassembly with lower control arms. The lower control arms are the only parts being retained on the rear suspension. Everything else is being replaced. Tomorrow and Monday will be devoted to cleaning, sanding, and painting.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5444/8916250621_b2751ee006_c.jpg

The engine is at the builder's. Decided to balance the entire rotating assembly. For $250 its worth it, especially since I am replacing not only rods but also the valves, springs, and retainers. Still hoping to have it back mid week so we can start putting the engine back together.

jibberjive
06-01-2013, 06:28 PM
Looking good, props for doing everything the right way. And good on ya for keeping all of the parts organized, so that the lifter buckets etc all go back into the same slots.

It's amazing how tedious and time consuming cleaning all of the parts is, huh? When I'm doing that I'm always thinking to myself about how the project would literally take half the time if I just didn't care about cleaning everything ha.

lo-lyfe
06-01-2013, 10:15 PM
Looking good, props for doing everything the right way. And good on ya for keeping all of the parts organized, so that the lifter buckets etc all go back into the same slots.

It's amazing how tedious and time consuming cleaning all of the parts is, huh? When I'm doing that I'm always thinking to myself about how the project would literally take half the time if I just didn't care about cleaning everything ha.

Thanks man! Lol, yeah the parts cleaning is probably the most time consuming part of the build. But I can't bring myself not to do it...the thought of putting new parts on a car, 99% of which has not been touched in 150k+ miles, turns my stomach. Too much $$ and time invested not to give it that attention to detail.

Vinchenzo51
06-02-2013, 09:31 AM
Thanks man! Lol, yeah the parts cleaning is probably the most time consuming part of the build. But I can't bring myself not to do it...the thought of putting new parts on a car, 99% of which has not been touched in 150k+ miles, turns my stomach. Too much $$ and time invested not to give it that attention to detail.

Terrific mindset. Can't wait to see it done.

lo-lyfe
06-03-2013, 04:07 PM
Terrific mindset. Can't wait to see it done.

Thanks!

lo-lyfe
06-03-2013, 04:08 PM
So...this is what bushing removal looks like if you don't have the specialty tool or a good extractor. Let em burn!

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7449/8941203985_025af52032_c.jpg

lo-lyfe
06-03-2013, 04:14 PM
Fueling question. Max put together a robust dual-line fueling kit for my 034 fuel rails: single -10AN to dual -6AN. I've seen dual line setups run dual -6AN off the front end of the rails joined together via -6An fuel line. Then individual -6AN lines from the rear ends of the fuel rail to a single Y-reducer, in this case it would be dual -6AN to single -10AN. The issue I'm having is this: Max is on vacation and I can't get an orientation around this setup from him. Also, haven't been able to located a single -10AN to -6AN reducer of any sort. Plenty of -8AN to -6AN and -12AN to -10AN, which makes me think the reducers pretty much are designed to move in increments of -2AN. Hope someone with fueling expertise can help me figure out this puzzle (will also post this in a separate thread):

This is my entire kit (minus fuel rails). The large pieces are -10AN while the smaller fittings are -6AN

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5349/8941202299_45f0d0c4c2_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7404/8941210843_c7d58c6b16_c.jpg

lo-lyfe
06-04-2013, 06:43 PM
All cleaning and painting finally finished.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7407/8953329621_e5c622748c_c.jpg

Pic of the undercarriage after numerous cleaning sessions.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3819/8953332247_e3831641f0_c.jpg

Rear subframe bushings are in. The front bushings will have to be pressed in. Freezing them right now in the hopes the metal contracts enough to make the fitment a bit easier. Edit >> Read on 034's website that you can run the rear bushings in reverse orientation (flipping them), so that the bottom ones are on top and vice versa. Supposed to bring the subframe closer to the body of the car and improve handling, especially in lowered cars, since the bottom bushings are thinner than the top bushings. We shall see how this works out...might still flip the bushings around to the original application before installing the subframe and its components. The front bushings apparently cannot be flipped.

Tomorrow I will start assembling the rear subframe. Then reattach the driveshaft and differential, and the axles, and the strut towers with rotors and control arms.

Delmed83
06-04-2013, 08:25 PM
Thanks man, appreciate it. Yeah I figured dropping both subframes was the easiest way to do all the suspension upgrades. Plus, I wanted to sand the rust and repaint everything. Tedious work though, but I think the end result will be worth it.

The end result will no doubt be well worth the effort. You'll have a nice "new" car.

lo-lyfe
06-08-2013, 03:36 PM
Spent most of the last few days installing the suspension. Love it when the little things slow you down. Here's a good example: tie rod seized on the control arm housing. Had to separate/beat it out. Damaged the CV boot a bit in the process, prompting me to order some aftermarket rear axles to run in conjunction with my cheap aftermarket front axles....just while I'm on the break-in tune...which will be long enough buy me time to rebuild the OEM axles.

This one came off no problem but the driver's side tie rod gave me more of a fight. Notice the grease smears on the CV boot. While the tears are not large, they're enough to warrant a temp replacement. No better time than now while everything is still apart.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7424/8990587442_25fe7521da_c.jpg

All components mounted but not yet tightened down. Waiting on inner and outer lower eccentric bolts. The original ones were so brittle and rusted out that they cracked or sheared off.

034 adjustable upper control arms and Vogtland coils are on.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7415/8990584432_1dc6b999ab_c.jpg

...as are the swaybar, the adjustable tie rods & sway bar links

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5332/8990578282_e7d05a62da_c.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8417/8989399483_4db63f948d_c.jpg

Motor should be coming back from the machine shop Tuesday or Wednesday. Fueling is still under construction but getting close to being finalized. Will most likely be running an 044 sump pump in the battery location fed by the stocker, with -8AN y-block -6AN split to the fuel rail and a Fuel Lab FPR on the return line. Hoping there is enough flow there to support e85 and +500whp. Ken @ 034 gets major props for coming to the rescue last minute and piecing this together. Here's a teaser:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7399/8989576613_121623f329_c.jpg

ilyafil
06-08-2013, 03:59 PM
The most useful tool!
http://i515.photobucket.com/albums/t356/mr_djsonic/8941203985_025af52032_c.jpg (http://s515.photobucket.com/user/mr_djsonic/media/8941203985_025af52032_c.jpg.html)

itguy
06-08-2013, 04:33 PM
Will most likely be running an 044 sump pump in the battery location fed by the stocker, with -8AN y-block -6AN split to the fuel rail and a Fuel Lab FPR on the return line. Hoping there is enough flow there to support e85 and +500whp. Ken @ 034 gets major props for coming to the rescue last minute and piecing this together. Here's a teaser:

I have the exact same setup with over 600whp

lo-lyfe
06-08-2013, 04:40 PM
The most useful tool!

Yes! Has been in frequent use, lol. My little "motivator"


I have the exact same setup with over 600whp

Best news I've heard in the last few days. Thank you!

WMi_S4
06-08-2013, 08:31 PM
Glad to see that your build is making great process man!! It's really too bad, I called the shop you are using in St. Claire Shores over 2 weeks ago to get a quote to do my 3L build and I still have not heard back from anyone at the shop with any sort of quote.....

Hope everything goes together smoothly on your setup, it's great to see another build come together in MI!!!

hendrj5689
06-08-2013, 09:42 PM
Looks absolutely awesome! So jelly haha that baby will drive better than it did the day it was driven off the lot that's for sure.

lo-lyfe
06-09-2013, 06:38 PM
Glad to see that your build is making great process man!! It's really too bad, I called the shop you are using in St. Claire Shores over 2 weeks ago to get a quote to do my 3L build and I still have not heard back from anyone at the shop with any sort of quote.....

Hope everything goes together smoothly on your setup, it's great to see another build come together in MI!!!

I'll ask Chad about that. Strange b/c they are usually fairly prompt with customer quotes. Only thing I can think of is they are waiting to see how my build turns out before committing to any others, especially since performance builds really are not their specialty.

lo-lyfe
06-09-2013, 06:42 PM
Looks absolutely awesome! So jelly haha that baby will drive better than it did the day it was driven off the lot that's for sure.

Thanks! I plan on tracking the car frequently, so I'm hoping the handling lives up to expectations.

lo-lyfe
06-12-2013, 05:28 PM
Getting little odds and ends to complete the build on an almost daily basis. Amazing (and a little disheartening) how quickly the little things add up. Case in point: 4 eccentric bolts, nuts, and washers --- total $106. Still better than what the stealership wanted to charge me: $176 for 2 eccentric bolts, washers, and nuts. Ouch!! Thankfully ECS Tuning carries the same parts, and for much cheaper. Also had this nice set of braided brake lines I picked up for the front and rear...

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5455/9029792632_6328293267_c.jpg

Front coilovers are on and lookin good...

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3814/9029793004_e4d2421c14_c.jpg

...and the front subframe is ready and waiting for the motor to be assembled.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7397/9029793132_daf53c38f7_c.jpg

Finally, I couldn't resist and wanted to see what the wheels would look like wrapped in some rubber. Cheaped out a bit on the tires, going with Nankang NS2 235/40/18s. Initially I wanted to go with Michelin Pilot Sports in a 245/35/18 fitment but the price differential between the two tire sizes was huge. Basically, I managed to secure all four tires for $379, shipped. Not a bad deal. The plan is to run this wheel/tire setup for this Summer and potentially throughout the Winter, then look for better (and lighter options) for the following Summer.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5332/9029792726_e5cc36a1b7_c.jpg

Ass shot- without spacers, however. Will be running 15mm spacers in the rear and 10mm in the front. Should flush out the look a bit. Notice the negative camber, lol. Wheels are 18x9.5 5x112 ET+38 Rota Grid.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7406/9029792836_167123aba9_c.jpg

Engine is still at the machine shop. Getting a little annoyed with the wait, but what can you do? Should be getting the rest of the fueling components tomorrow and on that note a huge, huge "thank you" goes out to Ken @ 034 for coming to the rescue. More on that later...

Doug@FrankenTurbo
06-12-2013, 07:29 PM
The manifolds can't get into ceramic until Friday, anyway. So they won't be to you until late next week. Delays, delays. Sorry.

lo-lyfe
06-12-2013, 09:00 PM
The manifolds can't get into ceramic until Friday, anyway. So they won't be to you until late next week. Delays, delays. Sorry.

No worries, Doug. Not directed towards you at all. Upset with the engine builder, more than anything. Got notice day before yesterday that he lacks all the tools necessary to complete the job. Now that portion of the build is being outsourced (by him) to a different shop. Although that bothers me, what is really upsetting is that he waited until Monday to examine the internals. Had the stuff since the 29th...unacceptable.

lo-lyfe
06-13-2013, 07:04 PM
Suspension is all buttoned-up. Made use of the $106 worth of eccentric bolts and washer. Next adjustment will be under load and during the alignment when I try to dial the suspension in.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7359/9038587210_e67b2c7b98_c.jpg

More 034 wholesome goodness. Rest of the fueling kit, including the surge tank that will house the Bosch 044, to be mounted in the battery location. Battery will find a new home in the trunk.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3717/9036382189_30b11ef0a6_c.jpg

FX400 pressure plate, harmonic balancer, and 034 ALWFL headed to the machine shop.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7452/9038589104_28153868df_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3781/9038590158_9cb2405d0c_c.jpg

Sneak peek at the color choices. Actually got tired of looking at the ICM delete kit just sitting there in a box and wanted to see how the valve covers would look. Subtle, just like I hoped. Y-pipe is wrinkle black.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3744/9036368463_a4ce022674_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7360/9038586316_c713658324_c.jpg

Can't say enough about the customer service I received from 034. Max put together a fuel line kit for the 034 fuel rails. I forgot to get in contact with him before he left on vacation and got stumped trying to figure out what Max had in mind. Ken stepped up to the plate and made my problem his own. Can't say how many hours he and the techs at 034 spent mulling over my fueling options but I'm sure it was substantial. Countless revisions later the kit arrives via 2nd day air and its perfect. Needless to say 034 has a customer for life.

uponone nogaro
06-13-2013, 07:41 PM
yea the 034 boys have good customer service glad the right down the street from me

lo-lyfe
06-14-2013, 07:23 PM
yea the 034 boys have good customer service glad the right down the street from me

I wish they were around the corner from me. Would make things so much easier.

Not much done today as I got to the shop late. Did mount the differential and driveshaft. Also installed the Apikol diff mount. Old axles are back in until Monday when the replacement axles are supposed to the delivered. Had to attach the old axles back to the differential in order to free them from the hub. Though I might be able to secure the shaft and keep it from spinning but that didn't work out too well. Gotta remember to order the inner and outer CV repair kits for both F & R axles and rebuild the OEM ones. Don't have too much faith in the replacement alternatives holding up for too long, especially on the track.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3799/9046761280_8c936b1e36_c.jpg

Also found out that my valve seats are in need of replacement, and so the wait continues

lo-lyfe
06-17-2013, 04:17 PM
Valve seats arrived today. In the meantime, I installed the JHM cross rod linkage and the solid linkage upgrade. Test fit the cross rod to make sure it was correct for the model year (late 2001).

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7290/9071697294_20f7cb60aa_c.jpg

Old bearing removed and bottom of the housing shaved off to allow for clearance.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3781/9071695062_248ffc2cb0_c.jpg

New bearing installed with washer pressed in.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7381/9069468279_1f31aac0fb_c.jpg

Solid linkage mated to bearing. Reused old boot and applied a healthy amount of grease to the assembly.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7380/9069474135_aa750dbf3c_c.jpg

Finished product. Shifter will have to be aligned once the tranny is back in the car to make sure all the gears engage. Looking forward to crisper, more accurate shifts with the JHM short shifter.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3779/9069472937_c4702010f8_c.jpg

Its interesting how much time is available to snap detailed pictures of every project on the build when there isn't much more left that can be done without parts. You can afford to be liberal with the camera whereas before you are doing everything possible to stay either on or ahead of schedule. At that point you are really only taking pictures of the finished product. The last order of business before the motor comes back is cleaning the tranny yet again. Going on cleaning #4 but its still caked in grease in oil in certain spots and is bugging me...

hendrj5689
06-18-2013, 06:54 AM
Looking good man, your patience will certainly pay off.

lo-lyfe
06-18-2013, 05:49 PM
Started a serious weight reduction diet for the S4. Carpeting has been removed. Center console will extend to the shift boot only. All exposed wiring will be run through protective plastic conduit.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5524/9081181388_d618ee6cb9_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3680/9078953931_c0a8ced63c_c.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5542/9081180278_e5b48f9b76_c.jpg

Tomorrow I will turn my attention to the side pillars and the headliner. Also debating my options for door cards. Hoping to be able to manage CF but may have to settle on aluminum as I expect the cost difference to be significant between the two options. Also plan on fitting a cage in there shortly.

lo-lyfe
06-18-2013, 05:53 PM
Looking good man, your patience will certainly pay off.

Thanks. Gotta keep on telling myself that.

lo-lyfe
06-20-2013, 06:26 PM
Headliner and pillars stripped to bare metal. Cleaning the interior tomorrow and hope to cover the exposed wiring in PVC conduit. May even throw the seats back in, time permitting.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5490/9097607032_1f68b49a88_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7361/9095360363_714dc853f7_c.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5336/9097598800_231b7b4967_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7346/9097599636_be9a18cdae_c.jpg

lo-lyfe
06-22-2013, 01:13 PM
Was hoping to have all the wiring finished today but ran out of 3/4" tubing needed for the wiring running across the shifter housing. For anyone thinking about stripping the interior of their B5 and wanting to clean up the exposed electrical I highly recommend Panduit Corrugated Loom in the 1.5" diameter. It is large enough for the harness and you will need 2 ten foot spools at roughly $26 per spool. Available at your local electronic supply store; Autozone/O'Reilly's/Advance do not carry sheathing large enough for this application.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7302/9110804344_e299e8342c_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7306/9110802994_085ca38374_c.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5332/9108583135_1666b31921_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7398/9108584513_90c445a7b2_c.jpg

clutchgordon
06-22-2013, 08:08 PM
Jeez, that wiring looks like the jets I work on lol. Awesome build though. Definitely wish I had the time and the money to do something like this.

lo-lyfe
06-23-2013, 11:12 AM
Jeez, that wiring looks like the jets I work on lol. Awesome build though. Definitely wish I had the time and the money to do something like this.

Thanks! Rerouting and shielding the wiring took a couple of days.

Time consuming: Yes, and its the little stuff that takes up a good portion of your time. Case-in-point: seized tie rods. A single bolt can take a few hours; same with the eccentric bolts that tend to corrode and rust to the control arms.

Expensive: Yes! More than I bargained for. Thought I accounted for everything but that's not the case. Ppl here have said to take your original budget and X it by 3 to est the true cost of the build. That's generally an accurate assumption, unfortunately.

GramCracker
06-23-2013, 05:15 PM
The attention to detail is perfect. Keep it up, I need to see this car when it's done!

lo-lyfe
06-23-2013, 07:02 PM
The attention to detail is perfect. Keep it up, I need to see this car when it's done!

Thanks man! I hope to find my way to the East Coast eventually...Race Wars 2014 maybe??

ilyafil
06-24-2013, 07:10 AM
Because race car!

lo-lyfe
06-24-2013, 08:26 AM
Because race car!

LOL! Yes!....well...sort of

lo-lyfe
06-24-2013, 04:50 PM
Wiring complete.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2872/9130784230_d0001b9e5c_c.jpg

Ordered a pair of Valeo E-codes. Initially wanted to do a clear corner mod on my existing headlights. Found out the shop that worked on my ride after the hit-n-run accident installed a broken driver's side headlight. Pretty much the entire backing was epoxied together to the point that if I wanted to swap out bulbs the thing would have fallen apart. In fact, it was starting to come apart already. Instead of searching for a used replacement I decided to get a brand new set. At this point, why not?

In addition to the headlight, I also discovered that the driver's side rocker panel was installed incorrectly and is pealing away from the body of the car. Lastly, the windshield washer fluid reservoir had a crack in it that again, was epoxied and the compound has since fallen off. Needless to say the tank leaks and the issue had to be resolved by purchasing a new tank. At least it will be pearly white...Considering calling my insurance company and reporting this shop.

Tec_Nine
06-24-2013, 05:33 PM
I'd repot it, ripping ppl off

ZG86
06-24-2013, 06:52 PM
top notch build sir [up]

lo-lyfe
07-08-2013, 05:31 PM
top notch build sir

Thanks!

Couple of updates: Got an interesting call yesterday from the State Police. Apparently Enterprise Rent-a-Car decided to report the car I was renting stolen. I guess its policy for a customer to renew a contract after 30 days if an auto repair shop is offering up a special daily rental rate. No one bothered to inform me of this and the only notifications I was getting from Enterprise occurred whenever the company debited my checking account for rental fees. To make matters worse, the report was filed on a Sunday, a day on which Enterprise local offices are closed. The car ended up being towed away as driving it was not an option. I would have been charged with a felony if the police ran my places. Today I spoke to the office manager and was told I've been placed on an alert list, meaning its uncertain whether or not the company will rent to me again. I am a "high risk" customer, lol.

Moving on...Sneak peek at the front fascia. Decided to go dark and yellow: black out the grille and go with Lamin-X tint

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5498/9241511059_7aa2c4c6cf_c.jpg

Think the combo will go well with black wheels and a rs4 bumper mod.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7388/9241513381_4868c69359_c.jpg

Frankenturbo exhaust manifolds have arrived and they are beefy. Going off a cfm flow test stock vs FT that Doug provided: stock max flow @.400" lift = 156 cfm @ 28" h/g. FT max flow @.450" lift @ 28" h/g = 222 cfm. Test performed on ported 2.8l. Very anxious to get these on, but expecting some fitment issues when clocking the turbos. In any event, hear good things about the manifolds from ppl who are running them. Think they will prove to be a great alternative to stock and some of the other aftermarket options (Wagner, Loba, etc.) Thanks a bunch Doug!

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2809/9244293940_a1a986f6d7_c.jpg

And finally, after putting an Amber Alert out on my motor, it comes back home, albeit incomplete. Heads are expected to be finished Wednesday night at the latest (heard that before). But in the meantime it allows me to move forward. Expect moar progress tomorrow.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3813/9241515277_d919c65cc7_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/9244298238_77d89abf4a_c.jpg

lo-lyfe
07-09-2013, 03:54 PM
Spent the day painting the block. For anyone interested in doing this yourself I recommend Eastwood's engine paint kit. Comes with ceramic engine paint (flat black for me) and a 4:1 activator. Mixes easy and applies very well. First coat serves as a bonding cover while the second coat goes on thick and easy. Coverage is very good. Mixed appx. 10 oz of the product but ended up using about 1/2 (5 oz) to do the entire block. It does take a while to dry, however, especially in high humidity. I'd say I waited about an hour to an hour and a half before applying the second coat....and you will definitely need more foam brushes than supplied in the kit. The paint saturates the foam quickly and makes the brush difficult to use after a while.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5544/9251891456_d16a952edb_c.jpg

Also, if I were in a time crunch I would have opted to powder coat the block. Painting it is a tedious process as you're trying to avoid getting paint on the mating surfaces and into tapped holes. Lots of wiping and touch-up required. Since I'm still waiting on the heads I decided to save some $$ and do the job myself.

lo-lyfe
07-22-2013, 05:18 PM
Finally! Crank and heads are back!

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3809/9347751974_482492ffec_c.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5479/9347753002_fa55f8ccfe_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3797/9344963799_cba1d28f16_c.jpg

Valves have been seated; Springs and retainers installed...moving forward

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7447/9347755032_bec61a6b35_c.jpg

Pistons and rods mated. Piston rings gapped for higher boost applications. Also installed the 034 fuel rail and the necessary rail spacers to accommodate the injectors.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3678/9347749802_b52f88a0ed_c.jpg

Tomorrow's agenda includes block assembly. Hoping to have the motor together by the end of the day.

After Plast-dipping my wheels to see whether or not black would be a better choice of color than the royal silver, I decided to go with satin black powder coat.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3812/9308049313_162d7cb78f_c.jpg

skinnytirez
07-22-2013, 05:35 PM
OMG!

Jealous!

uponone nogaro
07-26-2013, 02:57 AM
Nice build cant wait to see your dyno video

lo-lyfe
08-01-2013, 04:34 PM
Making slow but steady progress on engine assembly. Forgot to order head bolts and had to make an emergency purchase from PartsGeek next-day-air delivery only to find out my engine builder didn't return the cam cap dowel pins with the rest of the engine parts. Arrggghh! Also had to pick up a crank lock pin from ECS. Gotta love it when you pay $18 for shipping a $7 item, lol. Still, it shipped out today and will be here sometime tomorrow, allowing us to keep moving forward.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5546/9419249982_0dcb2dbb81_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7418/9416485933_09b91ddb76_c.jpg

For anyone interested in the extent of my engine build, I'm including an invoice of the work performed and the associated costs:

Bake & blast block - $90
Hone Cylinders - $60
Assemble/wash blocks - $50
Clean/Blast pistons and disassemble from rods - $66
Hone piston pin holes & polish pins - $48
Jet wash pistons and blast - $60
Hone pin of rods - $24
Balance crank and rotating assembly - $225
Clean & polish crank - $60

Clean & disassemble heads - $350
Valve guides: remove, ream holes, size guides - $210
Fit piston rings - $60

kiku
08-01-2013, 07:16 PM
Outstanding build, priceless information for those of us planning to go down this route!!!

happy2B5
08-01-2013, 09:20 PM
This really deserves a spot in the tech/build section. Good on ya sir :thumbup:

One of the most comprehensive build threads on here.

PashaS4
08-02-2013, 02:37 AM
Please tell me how much this all cost you excluding the exterior....? [up]

Bad ass build! Cause you a bad ass!!!

Cause race car! [up]


Sorry I'm drunk.... [>_<]

lo-lyfe
08-02-2013, 04:53 PM
Found out I couldn't get the heads on due to an accumulation of crud (that's oil & dirt, lol) in the bolt holes. The head bolts wouldn't torque all the way down so we had to retap. The issue was finding a thread restorer or tap in M11x1.5 that was long enough to reach all the way down in the block. Most retailers carry taps in the standard ~3" +/- length whereas we needed a tap that was at least 6". Plus M11 taps are fairly uncommon in the long shank version, so it seemed as though a custom manufacturing job was in order, which of course means $$$. However, after at least 12 phone calls to local suppliers, I managed to source this beauty, a full 6 3/8" in length and good enough for the job.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3687/9425967090_9c322f75f2_c.jpg

Some progress on the fueling: mounted the 034 surge pump in the battery location. Will run -8AN to the fuel rail and a -6AN return to the FPR. Using the 034 FPR housing, which will be mounted to the left of the surge pump. Also adjacent will be the circuit breaker for the battery relocation.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3694/9425970580_e5bf39e89a_c.jpg

Crank is in.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5545/9425969650_f0a0f2d551_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2831/9423202717_ab72522c67_c.jpg

Received my wideband today. Can't wait to get this baby hooked up to my PPD and start taking logs. Thanks Doug!

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2829/9425967946_3a4f078f45_c.jpg

lo-lyfe
08-02-2013, 05:01 PM
Outstanding build, priceless information for those of us planning to go down this route!!!


This really deserves a spot in the tech/build section. Good on ya sir :thumbup:

One of the most comprehensive build threads on here.

Thanks fellas! Yeah, the "Build" section would be an honor. But the pinnacle would be getting moved to "Chatterbox", lol


Please tell me how much this all cost you excluding the exterior....?

Bad ass build! Cause you a bad ass!!!

Cause race car!


Sorry I'm drunk....

Haha...No worries, mate. Roughly speaking, north of $18g's for everything

lo-lyfe
08-03-2013, 12:08 PM
Started the morning off by tapping the head, doing so 2x: once with a ratchet and the second time by hand. Marked the tap to make sure I was getting consistent depth on each hole.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3743/9428303093_351da82bc5_c.jpg

The amount of gunk I was getting out with the tap...

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5519/9428299901_c9478c3b79_c.jpg

Afterwards I sprayed parts cleaner into each hole and blew it out. Made sure the rest of the block was covered to prevent any debris getting into the piston cylinders.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3751/9428302037_4d3014af63_c.jpg

I then lubed up an old bolt and threaded it into each hole to make sure it went in smoothly and also to spread the lube on the threads.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3666/9428300955_23e819d3ef_c.jpg

Finally, after a thorough cleaning, I mounted the heads.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5476/9428304213_253c22e48a_c.jpg

MikeMarsh
08-03-2013, 01:59 PM
Hey the 034 downpipes.. They're 3" correct? And when you ordered them did it give you the option of equipping them to the f21s? I only saw the rs6 and tial

dubzackvr6
08-03-2013, 02:29 PM
This thread makes me want to buy a mk3 for 1k and rip into my s4 :)
great job with persisting

S4 00 2.7
08-03-2013, 04:24 PM
Hey the 034 downpipes.. They're 3" correct? And when you ordered them did it give you the option of equipping them to the f21s? I only saw the rs6 and tial

Choose the k03/k04 option (same as TiAL). The flange for the Rs6 is different.

lo-lyfe
08-03-2013, 09:23 PM
...and yes, 3" DPs to a 3.5" single with Magnaflow muffler (no cats).


This thread makes me want to buy a mk3 for 1k and rip into my s4 :)
great job with persisting

Thanks man!

itguy
08-03-2013, 10:43 PM
Please let us know where you found that tap, would be a great resource for others building their engine.

lo-lyfe
08-03-2013, 10:53 PM
Please let us know where you found that tap, would be a great resource for others building their engine.

Amtek Tool & Supply Co.
www.amtektool.com
248.548.0050 or 800.334.1660
Ask for Jim or Karl, both of whom are great guys.

vulkandino
08-04-2013, 09:41 PM
Clean build![up]

AudictedS4
08-10-2013, 01:33 PM
Baller...beautiful build sir. Subscribed

uponone nogaro
08-11-2013, 04:08 AM
Looking good man

EvilSmurf
08-12-2013, 02:22 PM
Sweet build...I remember this vividly from my E36 M3 turbo days. It was one of the most rewarding projects of my life. I cant wait to see the end result!

Did you not want to oversize the head studs when you couldnt find a tap?

rtl5009
08-12-2013, 02:53 PM
U trim the upper oil pan yet for the studs?

lo-lyfe
08-12-2013, 03:23 PM
Clean build!


Baller...beautiful build sir. Subscribed


Looking good man

Thanks guys!

lo-lyfe
08-12-2013, 03:31 PM
Sweet build...I remember this vividly from my E36 M3 turbo days. It was one of the most rewarding projects of my life. I cant wait to see the end result!

Did you not want to oversize the head studs when you couldnt find a tap?

Thanks man. I wanted to travel on the path of least resistance. Didn't think it would be so difficult to source a tap, lol.

rgm71srkc
08-12-2013, 03:45 PM
what hood is that? i need one

lo-lyfe
08-12-2013, 04:28 PM
U trim the upper oil pan yet for the studs?

Not yet. Working on the crank case and getting the cams in and oil pump mounted. Forgot to order gaskets for the F and R crankcase main seal and misplaced a couple of oil pump bolts, so that held me up a bit.

EDIT--> Gonna have to shave down the oil pump a bit as well at the base to clearance the main studs.

lo-lyfe
08-12-2013, 04:28 PM
what hood is that? i need one

VIS Invader

rtl5009
08-12-2013, 04:29 PM
U need to grind the oil pump too.

lo-lyfe
08-12-2013, 06:53 PM
U need to grind the oil pump too.

Yeah just realized that, lol. The base of the pump that mounts directly over the caps. Hoping to get to that tomorrow or Wed. Work's been hectic and limiting my time on the build...

rtl5009
08-12-2013, 07:07 PM
Yeah just realized that, lol. The base of the pump that mounts directly over the caps. Hoping to get to that tomorrow or Wed. Work's been hectic and limiting my time on the build...

Hand crank the pump for a few mins in fresh oil at least three times to clean it out after grinding. Turn it as fast as you can.

I tried to plug the holes the best I could buy a lot of shit still got in

hotshot32890
08-12-2013, 07:15 PM
Great build, great thread. Thumbs up to you sir

mario90
08-12-2013, 08:18 PM
you badass! what a super nice build! it's gonna be a monster sir!

lo-lyfe
08-13-2013, 10:31 AM
Hand crank the pump for a few mins in fresh oil at least three times to clean it out after grinding. Turn it as fast as you can.

I tried to plug the holes the best I could buy a lot of shit still got in

Got it. Appreciate the tip.

lo-lyfe
08-13-2013, 10:34 AM
Great build, great thread. Thumbs up to you sir


you badass! what a super nice build! it's gonna be a monster sir!

Thanks fellas. Encourages me to keep on plugging away.

sandspeed
08-13-2013, 01:58 PM
More pictures! I'm about to rebuild my motor, and detailed pics and info is a great help.

Cacti
08-13-2013, 05:58 PM
Love the build, cant wait to see finished product.

lo-lyfe
08-13-2013, 07:29 PM
Finished the fueling setup. The FPR housing is a free-floating unit (supposedly) and could have probably been fine being held up by the AN fittings and fuel line. But I had my concerns with the thing potentially being bounced around (because racekar) so I decided to fab up a little bracket and attach it to the firewall.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7305/9507138652_2d4df69a7b_c.jpg

The circuit breaker for the battery relocation kit is mounted opposite the surge tank. I had some corrugated loom left over (.5 inch) and decided to wrap the battery cable before routing it through the grommet. Used a 5/8" hole saw to drill through the metal and reinserted again through the grommet in the wheel well

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2838/9507137648_f79094f14a_c.jpg

The battery is located on the passenger side in the trunk, held fast by a mounting bracket from Autozone. Grounded the battery by drilling into the body by the trunk (remember to get the paint off for better contact) while the positive feed will ultimately be routed over the wheel well. Thinking about eventually swapping the stock battery for a Kinetik KR5112 (37lbs), 800CA @ 32 deg which should be enough juice in the event I want to drive the car in the winter when there's no snow.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3671/9504340965_0a8ba73d86_c.jpg

Next I tackled the issue of clearancing the oil pump and upper oil pan. The longer ARP main studs prevent the pump and pan from mating correctly without modification. Note the gaps...

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3706/9504340015_8d8f70fc61_c.jpg

Thanks to some wise advice I wrapped the crap out of the thing to prevent any slivers of sheared metal from polluting the pump...yeah, that's duct tape and plastic.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2850/9507133170_86666648f6_c.jpg

Then I marked the metal to be removed, threw the pump into a vice, and went to work with the grinder.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3665/9507132238_1a1aae9f9a_c.jpg

Finished product mates perfectly. Still have to crank it over while submerging it in oil to clear out any debris. That will be done tomorrow, along with the oil pan.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3697/9507139546_f70031aa5d_c.jpg

lo-lyfe
08-13-2013, 07:35 PM
More pictures! I'm about to rebuild my motor, and detailed pics and info is a great help.

I'll do my best to document as much as possible. Sometimes when you get into a portion of the build, especially when it involves something technical with the engine, its tough to break off and photograph. But I know this info is helpful and I sure as heck have used ppls' threads as a reference, so....

lo-lyfe
08-13-2013, 07:36 PM
Love the build, cant wait to see finished product.

Thanks [up]

tosh2.7
08-13-2013, 08:27 PM
its nice to see some one who takes their time and does it right, A rare breed around now a days. Keep up the good work kid [up]

uponone nogaro
08-14-2013, 09:21 PM
This Car should romp and easy break 500+whp good build thread Man. Is your block a bf block also

AudictedS4
08-14-2013, 09:59 PM
Wow. What a build. Can't wait to see your numbers. I'm goin f21's soon too after talkin to Doug tonight and seeing the faith you're puttin in em!

lo-lyfe
08-24-2013, 12:37 PM
Been busy with work and such but finally managed to devote some time to this build. Here's another thing that had my attention the last couple of days: 1990 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer, 5L 302. Bought to serve as my Winter to-and-from work vehicle. On the immediate agenda: new 33x12.5x15 rubber on 15x10 wheels and a 4" lift for good measure, along with a catback exhaust as the current version is rusted out. By next Summer I hope to have the engine swapped out for something bigger and better. Truck was purchased for $1.8k.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3764/9582763607_5d96920d7c_c.jpg

Oil delivery system complete. Oil pan clearanced for ARP main studs and mates perfectly to the block. Engine is finally starting to look like it should.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7354/9582775031_467bc1f701_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2824/9582765721_2c8cce6905_c.jpg

lo-lyfe
08-24-2013, 12:39 PM
This Car should romp and easy break 500+whp good build thread Man. Is your block a bf block also

I hope it does. But again, my car has shed a lot of weight so even if it comes in at less that 500 whp it should still haul ass fairly well.

lo-lyfe
08-24-2013, 12:40 PM
its nice to see some one who takes their time and does it right, A rare breed around now a days. Keep up the good work kid [up]

Thanks man. Nice to see some of the old school dudes commenting on this build and offering encouragement. Keeps me plugging along.

lo-lyfe
08-24-2013, 12:42 PM
Wow. What a build. Can't wait to see your numbers. I'm goin f21's soon too after talkin to Doug tonight and seeing the faith you're puttin in em!

I plan on taking extensive logs and scheduling a dyno session as soon as possible. I do have faith in the f21s and Doug's customer service is second to none. You will not be disappointed.

tosh2.7
08-24-2013, 12:56 PM
Been busy with work and such but finally managed to devote some time to this build. Here's another thing that had my attention the last couple of days: 1990 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer, 5L 302. Bought to serve as my Winter to-and-from work vehicle. On the immediate agenda: new 33x12.5x15 rubber on 15x10 wheels and a 4" lift for good measure, along with a catback exhaust as the current version is rusted out. By next Summer I hope to have the engine swapped out for something bigger and better. Truck was purchased for $1.8k.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3764/9582763607_5d96920d7c_c.jpg

I use to have a 87 full size, things are tanks. The manual 4x4 shifter is a bit of a pain in cold weather but all in all minus the rust that develops under the rear deck and on the fenders its one of the best trucks ever IMHO

jibberjive
08-24-2013, 06:01 PM
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3764/9582763607_5d96920d7c_c.jpg


Nice get. I've always loved those Bronco's, and almost bought one back in high school (ended up with a Grand Cherokee). My brother currently has pretty much your exact same car, I should find a pic ha.

lo-lyfe
08-25-2013, 07:57 PM
I use to have a 87 full size, things are tanks. The manual 4x4 shifter is a bit of a pain in cold weather but all in all minus the rust that develops under the rear deck and on the fenders its one of the best trucks ever IMHO

Loving it already. Took an hour trip in 80+ deg heat and 80+ humidity and the thing ran like a champ. 140k on the odometer.


Nice get. I've always loved those Bronco's, and almost bought one back in high school (ended up with a Grand Cherokee). My brother currently has pretty much your exact same car, I should find a pic ha.

Post it here if you find it. Interested to see what tires/wheels he's running. Truck mod bug is starting to itch my non-Audi hand....

lo-lyfe
08-27-2013, 04:31 PM
Driver's side cams are in. What a fun process that was (not)...trying to time the cams correctly and get the notches and sprockets to line up. Bentley manual doesn't do a great job of explaining the process but I found this thread very helpful:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/407002-Driver-side-cam-timing-wtf-!

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3812/9608492021_ff97d660f5_c.jpg

Cleaned and dropped the lifters into the passenger side head. Will be tackling Bank 1-3 tomorrow

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7350/9611727126_2dd978b432_c.jpg

disrepos
08-27-2013, 04:42 PM
It's pretty easy if you line up and count the links before slipping the cam chain tensioner in between.

tosh2.7
08-27-2013, 04:45 PM
should have 16 notches from one timing mark to the other http://bigskyeuro.com/images/gallery/mikewire/cam/cam2.gif
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/tsmodie/2010-11-23_172137_1.jpg

lo-lyfe
08-27-2013, 05:35 PM
Thanks fellas. I probably should have posted something earlier, when we were struggling with the timing chain and trying to seat the camshafts, lol. Next time I'll know better...

Yeah, going off the thread I highlighted above we went with 16 notches on Bank 1-3 and 15.5 notches on Bank 4-6. Getting the arrow on the cam cap to line up with the notch on the cam gear took a few turns with the tensioner, lol. Initially we thought it was 16 notches for both the driver's and passenger's side head, which is apparently not the case, and that error caused us to waste some time fighting the chain, tensioner, camshaft, and cam cap. Once we realized the driver's side timing called for 15.5 notches we were able to clock everything correctly. We popped the intake cam into place, locked it down, and then settled the exhaust side in. Chain lined up perfectly. You live and learn, meaning tomorrow's work should be that much easier.

lo-lyfe
09-03-2013, 04:03 PM
Been busy the last couple of days and haven't had much time to work on the car. Did finish off both heads and hopefully plan on picking up steam tomorrow.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3715/9668423422_388899f60d_c.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5500/9668426858_029d396002_c.jpg

In addition, got new wheels and rubber for the Bronco. It now sits on 33x12.5r15s mounted on 15x10 wheels. Although I love the Audi, the fact that I was able to swap a $65 starter on the Ford in about 15 min made me realize how easy some DIYers have it...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7426/9668424600_b574eb25f6_c.jpg

ilyafil
09-03-2013, 04:19 PM
Keep it coming. Great job so far!

tosh2.7
09-03-2013, 05:22 PM
you should put a side step on the bronco and what color is the VC painted

lo-lyfe
09-03-2013, 07:48 PM
Keep it coming. Great job so far!

Thank you.


you should put a side step on the bronco and what color is the VC painted

Gonna have to. Wife is 14 weeks pregnant and is already having a difficult time getting in and out. Plus, I want to add a 4" lift shortly. VCs are cast iron gray, which is a bit misleading. First, the pics don't do them justice. Depending on the lighting they appear more bronze than gray. This is a better pic I took a while back as a preview...

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3744/9036368463_a4ce022674_c.jpg

EvilSmurf
09-04-2013, 10:04 AM
Gonna have to. Wife is 14 weeks pregnant and is already having a difficult time getting in and out. Plus, I want to add a 4" lift shortly.

I have a brand new 4" lift still in box if you are interested. I got hit last week before I could install it and they totaled it!

lo-lyfe
09-04-2013, 10:21 AM
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7311/9673838910_2c1836cddf_o.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/90961538@N07/9673838910/)

Moving along...

lo-lyfe
09-04-2013, 03:39 PM
A couple more pics from today:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7416/9672922897_a2bb3c7a6a_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7450/9672923941_2fbb495165_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2851/9676152594_033980e228_c.jpg

Have to get a better camera...

Audisseuss
09-04-2013, 03:54 PM
Love your attention to detail through out this whole build! Definitely going to be one of the sweetest and solid built s4's out there[up]

lo-lyfe
09-04-2013, 06:16 PM
I have a brand new 4" lift still in box if you are interested. I got hit last week before I could install it and they totaled it!

Sorry to hear that man. Hope everyone is ok. You have a PM.

lo-lyfe
09-04-2013, 06:17 PM
Love your attention to detail through out this whole build! Definitely going to be one of the sweetest and solid built s4's out there[up]

Thanks! Appreciate it.

disrepos
09-04-2013, 06:28 PM
Looks great, but....

You may want to get coolant hard pipes on there (At least the one that runs between the driver's head and timing belt), or you'll have to back-track quite a bit.

edit: oil dip-stick, too.

zillarob
09-04-2013, 06:42 PM
Uh oh, pretty sure that coolant line needs to go on before the water pump

aysix
09-04-2013, 06:53 PM
Uh oh, pretty sure that coolant line needs to go on before the water pump

Yea.

Or he can cut the hard pipes from eachother and slide them in. Done.

disrepos
09-04-2013, 07:39 PM
Knock sensors, too. They get buried pretty quick once the pipes go in.

lo-lyfe
09-05-2013, 10:46 AM
Appreciate the input guys. This is my first time tearing down/rebuilding an S4 engine so I expect mistakes and setbacks. Decided to tear down the timing to put coolant piping in. Don't trust myself to cut the hard lines and slide them back in; want to avoid the need to tear down in order to fix any resulting leaks in the future.

Please, any additional suggestions going forward, especially tips on things coming up on the install, would be greatly appreciated. Doing my best to search build threads but even so I'm sure to miss some important details (like the coolant lines above). Thanks!

Monty23
09-05-2013, 11:47 AM
Appreciate the input guys. This is my first time tearing down/rebuilding an S4 engine so I expect mistakes and setbacks. Decided to tear down the timing to put coolant piping in. Don't trust myself to cut the hard lines and slide them back in; want to avoid the need to tear down in order to fix any resulting leaks in the future.

Please, any additional suggestions going forward, especially tips on things coming up on the install, would be greatly appreciated. Doing my best to search build threads but even so I'm sure to miss some important details (like the coolant lines above). Thanks!

I made this mistake during reassembly too. I don't think its possible to fit the hard pipes (coolant/ps combo) in with the ds head installed. I had to cut my hard pipes apart slightly and I am 99% sure my ps is leaking due to this. I have a spare that I will install when my heads come off again this winter. So I would not cut the hard pipes at all as they are welded together.....

lo-lyfe
09-05-2013, 05:23 PM
Knock sensors, oil dip stick housing, and coolant lines are in. Timing has been redone...

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3772/9683400998_51a25f37b2_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7315/9680164871_b115250079_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7328/9683402892_8d934be655_c.jpg

One minor setback: the exhaust manifold studs couldn't take the required 25nm of torque. Although only one snapped, I ordered 18 replacements. Better be safe than sorry...

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3737/9680166735_0dd9e15abd_c.jpg

martin0079
09-05-2013, 05:50 PM
What happen to the franken manifolds

rtl5009
09-05-2013, 07:28 PM
25 nm is nothing... Are you sure your tq wrench is cool.

lo-lyfe
09-05-2013, 08:27 PM
25 nm is nothing... Are you sure your tq wrench is cool.

Ehhh...well...I used a Snap-On calibrated in pound feet of torque only. So did the conversion and came up with 18.43 lb-ft. The wrench goes down to only 20 lb-ft but I didn't think the <2 lb-ft would make that much difference. Apparently I was wrong b/c the wrench never clicked but the stud definitely broke, lol.

lo-lyfe
09-05-2013, 08:32 PM
I made this mistake during reassembly too. I don't think its possible to fit the hard pipes (coolant/ps combo) in with the ds head installed. I had to cut my hard pipes apart slightly and I am 99% sure my ps is leaking due to this. I have a spare that I will install when my heads come off again this winter. So I would not cut the hard pipes at all as they are welded together.....

...one could use the necessary tear-down as an excuse to go 3L. I mean, since the heads are off that's like half the battle [;)]

lo-lyfe
09-05-2013, 08:37 PM
What happen to the franken manifolds

Intend on giving them a shot when the time comes to clock the turbos. Concerned about fitment and such so the plan is to take some measurements with the stockers and then compare. Should give me an idea of where any adjustments need to be made to make the Franken manifolds fit.

AudictedS4
09-08-2013, 01:44 PM
How much modification is required to make the Frankenmanifolds work? I assumed they were plug and play... Can't wait to see the final product!

Mr. Merk
09-08-2013, 02:17 PM
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7315/9680164871_b115250079_c.jpg


http://www.034motorsport.com/oscthumbwm/w/800/h/800/q/95/f/jpg/fltr/wmi%7CphpThumb/watermarks/034watermark%7CC%7C20%7C0/hash/bbbb2edef660739a6071ab5a4f8a869f/src/images/2.7t%20aux%20Pump%20Delete%20a%20.jpg

lo-lyfe
09-10-2013, 07:29 PM
A little more progress today...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7312/9718912823_489fc96d1f_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7398/9718915319_97539f0eb1_c.jpg

Extracted the old studs, re-tapped the holes, and installed new studs. Precautionary...but for $30+ I think its worth it. Also spent the better part of the day installing an off-road Y-pipe on the Bronco. The screen inside the catalytic converter came loose and started to rattle. So instead of replacing the cat I decided to go with a bit more flow and opened up the exhaust. Of course, not everything went smoothly. One of the studs on the exhaust manifold broke off. Had to drill it out and re-tap the hole. Took a couple of hours, keeping me away from the Audi. Plus, the Y-Pipe didn't mate well with the exhaust manifold or the exhaust pipe, and correcting the fitment required some cutting. Thought I was done but I have an exhaust leak, probably at the manifold, that will require some attention tomorrow.

lo-lyfe
09-10-2013, 07:32 PM
How much modification is required to make the Frankenmanifolds work? I assumed they were plug and play... Can't wait to see the final product!

Not exactly plug-n-play. Everyone I've contacted who is currently running the Franken manis pretty much said that some modification is required. Won't know exactly what until I start clocking the turbos.

lo-lyfe
09-10-2013, 07:34 PM
@ Mr. Merk: Yeah, I thought about that and probably should have pulled the trigger and bought it. Will do the aux h2o pump delete a bit later on down the road when I'm in the process of installing the meth kit.

lo-lyfe
10-17-2013, 06:19 PM
Been a while since I last updated this thread. Work has kept me busy and away from the build but we managed to make some progress today:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7387/10337012025_eff4888e67_c.jpg

Snails are on as is the clutch and pressure plate.

Some picks of how we routed the plumbing. Induktion oil feed lines...

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5502/10337024396_c41405f02f_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3701/10337185263_d7db1ed793_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2879/10337022226_aa7e0cdbe1_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2846/10337189153_f3b0cca1a5_c.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5515/10337032296_16835195f4_c.jpg

EvilSmurf
10-17-2013, 07:10 PM
Looks excellent! Hurry up so you can buy my lift kit and I can rebuild my motor!

wbrunner23
10-18-2013, 05:23 AM
Been a while since I last updated this thread. Work has kept me busy and away from the build but we managed to make some progress today:

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7387/10337012025_eff4888e67_c.jpg

Lookin good! Valve covers look sick [up]

Any plans for an OCC? I just placed an order with 034 for a new OEM PRV (pancake), Billet PCV valve, and vented oil cap - I'm hoping this will lessen my current oil consumption via the IM/combustion on my K04 Stg3 prior to pulling the trigger on an OCC.

lo-lyfe
10-18-2013, 08:22 AM
Looks excellent! Hurry up so you can buy my lift kit and I can rebuild my motor!

Lol! I know, right? Everytime I drive the Bronco I wish it were lifted. Your kit is bad-ass, sir and we're getting to the home stretch with this build. Prelim goal is to have it running by next Sat.

lo-lyfe
10-18-2013, 08:26 AM
Lookin good! Valve covers look sick [up]

Any plans for an OCC? I just placed an order with 034 for a new OEM PRV (pancake), Billet PCV valve, and vented oil cap - I'm hoping this will lessen my current oil consumption via the IM/combustion on my K04 Stg3 prior to pulling the trigger on an OCC.

Thanks! Bought the Vortex catch can from 034. Will mount it off the coolant reservoir post and run it to the Y-pipe and the pancake valve via a 5/8" t-fitting. The hose off the crankcase will mate with the catch can via the top inlet. The hose out to the y-pipe/pancake valve will be off the bottom inlet on the catch can. I'll post pics of the setup once its finished.

lo-lyfe
10-19-2013, 12:31 PM
Today's update:

Engine and transmission mated:

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3725/10366065256_2415b3a34c_c.jpg

Front subframe ready for the engine:

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2826/10366046485_52c3f176b3_c.jpg

Some pics of the finished product:

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2856/10366037765_27ecf178a2_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2830/10366243163_a086a979f6_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2888/10366043965_ea558de7c4_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7364/10366040825_f5b4c692bb_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3708/10366059995_ef1b593767_c.jpg

uponone nogaro
10-20-2013, 03:14 AM
looking good i cant wait see to see it all together,and the dyno numbers

Mr. Merk
10-20-2013, 08:33 AM
I'm so fucking jelly I can barely contain myself

mightemouce
10-20-2013, 09:46 AM
Looking back through your build, I'm assuming the Franken Manifolds didn't fit correctly?

xander3zero
10-20-2013, 03:08 PM
Just read this thread this is beautiful I love everything about it and I love that you've been cleaning and repainting and do in this job right.

Subscribed and can't wait for more updates this is a nice build

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4

lo-lyfe
10-21-2013, 04:31 PM
looking good i cant wait see to see it all together,and the dyno numbers


I'm so fucking jelly I can barely contain myself


ust read this thread this is beautiful I love everything about it and I love that you've been cleaning and repainting and do in this job right.

Subscribed and can't wait for more updates this is a nice build

Thanks guys. I really appreciate it.

lo-lyfe
10-21-2013, 04:32 PM
Looking back through your build, I'm assuming the Franken Manifolds didn't fit correctly?

Yeah, had some issues with fitment. Probably would have managed to fit them correctly but I'm under a huge time crunch. Took days off work to finish up the build and the minutes keep ticking away.

lo-lyfe
10-21-2013, 04:36 PM
More progress today. Motor is in! Thankfully not too many issues. Took our time lowering the body down and made sure everything lined up correctly. Had to redrill holes in the motor mount brackets to accommodate the larger diameter bolts for the 034 engine mounts. Same for the tranny mounts. Other than that, everything went smoothly.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7410/10411493414_f6a96c00e7_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2878/10411495864_8b84077ff0_c.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5520/10411505825_3380ca17cd_c.jpg

pipe7284
10-21-2013, 05:12 PM
so clean, me want. me do

tosh2.7
10-21-2013, 06:48 PM
so clean, me want. me do

I would never want to start it in fear that it would become dirty again

S4 00 2.7
10-21-2013, 07:27 PM
Clean job. Looks great. [up]

Hyphy
10-21-2013, 08:18 PM
Love it!

mightemouce
10-21-2013, 11:00 PM
Yeah, had some issues with fitment. Probably would have managed to fit them correctly but I'm under a huge time crunch. Took days off work to finish up the build and the minutes keep ticking away.

Gotcha what seemed to be hitting? I have a set here I am debating to install or not.

Setup looks mint[up]

AudictedS4
10-21-2013, 11:17 PM
Damnit I can't wait to see the numbers and powerband!

zillarob
10-21-2013, 11:26 PM
Dude, props!

Nice to see someone take the time to do shit right.
See way too many pics on here of people putting shit back together that wasnt even clean enough to take apart in the first place.

I usually keep the open holes holes covered, but in your clean-room environment, youll prob be fine[:D]

AdamS4
10-22-2013, 06:43 AM
Excellent thread.... Sorry if I missed it, are you using a parts washer to clean up the parts?

I'm in middle of engine rebuild and need to start cleaning the engine bay and parts.. Any cleaner recommendations? Brake cleaner?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

AudiSportB5S4
10-22-2013, 06:50 AM
I'm envious of the cleaning you're doing while the engine is out... When I replace my turbos again I really want to have the engine out for a while and do a similar cleaning by myself since I'm crazy and will spend just as much time cleaning as I would getting it back together haha.

lo-lyfe
10-22-2013, 07:22 AM
so clean, me want. me do

I would never want to start it in fear that it would become dirty again

Clean job. Looks great.

Love it!

Thanks! Yeah, once we got the engine in the car we were sitting around laughing that the majority of the "beauty" will be covered up. But in all honesty, the engine was so caked in oil and grime I really had no choice but to clean it. Plus, I couldn't bring myself to install new parts on a dirty car. It did take a long time to clean the parts and was by far the least enjoyable part of the build.

lo-lyfe
10-22-2013, 07:28 AM
Gotcha what seemed to be hitting? I have a set here I am debating to install or not.

Setup looks mint[up]

Thanks. The wastegate actuator, for one. Rod kept on hitting the housing no matter how we clocked it. Then getting the inlet at the right angle to accomodate the intercooler piping was tough. Some parts would have required grinding and inlet piping would have required some denting, especially on the driver's side. Had a tough time mounting the starter as well, if I recall correctly. The fact that the Frankenmanis are beefier and the flange is much thicker than OEM was probably the cause of the fitment issue. Had I more time I probably would have taken the necessary steps to install the manis.

lo-lyfe
10-22-2013, 07:33 AM
Damnit I can't wait to see the numbers and powerband!

Me too. Once I get the clutch broken in I plan on scheduling a dyno session. Josh sent me a break-in tune set to top out at 450 whp. I hope that the ported out F21s on e85 and meth can get me close to 500 awhp at 28-30psi. With all the weight reductions and drivetrain/suspension upgrades it should be a pretty quick car.

lo-lyfe
10-22-2013, 07:35 AM
Dude, props!

Nice to see someone take the time to do shit right.
See way too many pics on here of people putting shit back together that wasnt even clean enough to take apart in the first place.

I usually keep the open holes holes covered, but in your clean-room environment, youll prob be fine[:D]

Thanks, man. Yeah we keep the car covered with a tarp when not working on it. I'm always running around blowing stuff off the motor; its the joke around the shop.

lo-lyfe
10-22-2013, 07:40 AM
Excellent thread.... Sorry if I missed it, are you using a parts washer to clean up the parts?

I'm in middle of engine rebuild and need to start cleaning the engine bay and parts.. Any cleaner recommendations? Brake cleaner?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

Yes, parts washer, then blow off any residue, and finish off with brake cleaner. Cover all exposed holes/openings on anything electrical and tape up any sensor plugs/recepticals. Even with being this thorough there can be issues. For example, when we installed the starter and tried to get it to crank over it wouldn't. Thought it burned out. Wasn't the case, the spindle seized, probably from getting some cleaner in it and sitting for a few months. Once we loosened up the spindle it fired up fine. Just have to be careful and take your time. Good luck!

lo-lyfe
10-22-2013, 07:44 AM
I'm envious of the cleaning you're doing while the engine is out... When I replace my turbos again I really want to have the engine out for a while and do a similar cleaning by myself since I'm crazy and will spend just as much time cleaning as I would getting it back together haha.

Lol, I've seen pics of your car and I think its safe to say we both suffer from varying degrees of OCD. I would expect nothing less than a pristine cleaning of all parts involved [:)]

zillarob
10-22-2013, 11:20 AM
Yes, parts washer, then blow off any residue, and finish off with brake cleaner. Cover all exposed holes/openings on anything electrical and tape up any sensor plugs/recepticals. Even with being this thorough there can be issues. For example, when we installed the starter and tried to get it to crank over it wouldn't. Thought it burned out. Wasn't the case, the spindle seized, probably from getting some cleaner in it and sitting for a few months. Once we loosened up the spindle it fired up fine. Just have to be careful and take your time. Good luck!

Be careful with the serp belt tensioner and fan pulley also.
You think you are doing them a favor with a good cleaning, but they can get real cranky afterward.
The tensioner is usually cheap enough to replace, but the one for the fan is a little spendy.

waB5S4
10-22-2013, 11:52 AM
Excellent thread.... Sorry if I missed it, are you using a parts washer to clean up the parts?

I'm in middle of engine rebuild and need to start cleaning the engine bay and parts.. Any cleaner recommendations? Brake cleaner?

I'd also recommend going to harbor freight and buying about $20 of wire brushes, which will be about a shopping cart full.

Tec_Nine
10-22-2013, 12:36 PM
The only thing i would recommend is a brake upgrade in the future

AudiSportB5S4
10-22-2013, 12:40 PM
Lol, I've seen pics of your car and I think its safe to say we both suffer from varying degrees of OCD. I would expect nothing less than a pristine cleaning of all parts involved [:)]

Haha yep! A good OCD.. [up]

mightemouce
10-22-2013, 01:28 PM
Thanks. The wastegate actuator, for one. Rod kept on hitting the housing no matter how we clocked it. Then getting the inlet at the right angle to accomodate the intercooler piping was tough. Some parts would have required grinding and inlet piping would have required some denting, especially on the driver's side. Had a tough time mounting the starter as well, if I recall correctly. The fact that the Frankenmanis are beefier and the flange is much thicker than OEM was probably the cause of the fitment issue. Had I more time I probably would have taken the necessary steps to install the manis.

Sweet thanks for the info.

lo-lyfe
10-25-2013, 12:16 AM
Lots of progress today. Started at around 9am and just finished up about an hour ago. Accomplishments include: installing adjustable front control arms, loading suspension and tightening all nuts and bolts; Bolting up the DTS and exhaust; installing new brake lines; mounting and balancing tires; wiring up the fuel pump; starting on the fueling. On to the pics....

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2822/10470432385_184eb43424_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2887/10470427255_c78f6e5c7c_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2864/10470425626_cceafe0ac3_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7292/10470399954_aa7c3ed53b_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7446/10470586043_55232ac1ff_c.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5506/10470601823_ca50240d9c_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2846/10470570223_34d06d71af_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7374/10470381955_950650502b_c.jpg

audi-hammer
10-25-2013, 01:32 AM
Noticed you have the 034 single mid muffler as well! Sounds like the rapture of god when going through under passes! Honestly one of my favorite parts of my car. Your build in awesome and really hope you get the hp and powerband you are looking for

uponone nogaro
10-25-2013, 04:17 AM
coming together nicely

pipe7284
10-25-2013, 04:58 AM
i just realized you are in Michigan, too....we all need to get together after we are done with our projects. I should be getting my F21s soon too, they were on back order, so hopfully they will ship out soon.

BTW, i want and will take your wheels. I believe those look better on an avant!!!! lol

AudiSportB5S4
10-25-2013, 08:12 AM
Is that the 034 drop in fuel rail kit? I will eventually have to pick that up.. Sexy.

lo-lyfe
10-25-2013, 09:27 AM
The only thing i would recommend is a brake upgrade in the future

I'm eyeing a set of Touareg Brembo calipers to refurbish. Definitely on the next-to-do list along with the meth kit.

lo-lyfe
10-25-2013, 09:28 AM
Noticed you have the 034 single mid muffler as well! Sounds like the rapture of god when going through under passes! Honestly one of my favorite parts of my car. Your build in awesome and really hope you get the hp and powerband you are looking for

Thanks a lot. Yead I did the exhaust upgrade along with the ER SMIC swap and it was grand. Would look for tunnels and overpasses just to open it up.

lo-lyfe
10-25-2013, 09:31 AM
i just realized you are in Michigan, too....we all need to get together after we are done with our projects. I should be getting my F21s soon too, they were on back order, so hopfully they will ship out soon.

BTW, i want and will take your wheels. I believe those look better on an avant!!!! lol

Lol! Agreed, they do look better on an avant but since I have a lowly sedan I have to take an aesthetic hit. I think a bunch of locals meet up on Woodward in Royal Oak so if you're ever in the area we should compare notes once our cars are done. If not there is always next year's NoWo.

pipe7284
10-25-2013, 09:36 AM
^^^^^ Sounds Good!!!

lo-lyfe
10-25-2013, 09:36 AM
Is that the 034 drop in fuel rail kit? I will eventually have to pick that up.. Sexy.

034 rails with a custom kit 034 originally put together that I eventually modified a bit. -6 lines on the return to the FPR off the front of the rail and -8 lines out from the 044 in the surge tank to the rear of the rail. Sourced a number of the AN fittings from Jegs. The fittings and braided hose were relatively inexpensive. Only issue I'm running into is a lack of space for the fuel line routing...and the -8AN hose is not flexible at all when cut to a short length. Have to manipulate the manifold to get the fittings to mate.

topquarkpc
10-25-2013, 09:45 AM
034 rails with a custom kit 034 originally put together that I eventually modified a bit. -6 lines on the return to the FPR off the front of the rail and -8 lines out from the 044 in the surge tank to the rear of the rail. Sourced a number of the AN fittings from Jegs. The fittings and braided hose were relatively inexpensive. Only issue I'm running into is a lack of space for the fuel line routing...and the -8AN hose is not flexible at all when cut to a short length. Have to manipulate the manifold to get the fittings to mate.

saw that you had the 180 deg return at the end of the rails where as 034 just connects the two... i have it the way the kit comes with...
works ok...


was there a plan to run a CCV catch can setup? looks like you're plumbed already...hence the question...
looks clean...

lo-lyfe
10-25-2013, 10:08 AM
saw that you had the 180 deg return at the end of the rails where as 034 just connects the two... i have it the way the kit comes with...
works ok...


was there a plan to run a CCV catch can setup? looks like you're plumbed already...hence the question...
looks clean...

Yeah, will route the -6 return lines to the back of the manifold and link the two lines into one via a -6 y-fitting. Then the plan is to go through the firewall and back into the surge tank.

Running the 034 Vortex catch can and using your Excel spreadsheet as a template (thx!). Crank case to catch can and catch can to y-pipe. Waiting until I have more of the bay completed before I finish the plumbing. Intention is to mount the catch can off the coolant reservoir support bracket but first I want to make sure I have the space necessary do to so.

AudiSportB5S4
10-25-2013, 10:08 AM
Ah gotcha man, thanks for the detail.


saw that you had the 180 deg return at the end of the rails where as 034 just connects the two... i have it the way the kit comes with...
works ok...

How is the 034 kit just as is? Good? Does it make the car more race kor? That's what I'm aiming for. :-p

noSup4u
10-25-2013, 10:47 AM
Dude, props!

Nice to see someone take the time to do shit right.
See way too many pics on here of people putting shit back together that wasnt even clean enough to take apart in the first place.

I usually keep the open holes holes covered, but in your clean-room environment, youll prob be fine[:D]

take the time to do shit right!!! ;)

SwissBliss
10-25-2013, 09:08 PM
Just found this! amazing build! Cant wait to see the end product!

lo-lyfe
10-27-2013, 12:12 AM
Another late night, but oh so close...

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5539/10506664986_8c36c4b9b8_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7457/10506682594_bcbc44be29_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7440/10506649885_923acec53f_c.jpg

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2836/10506667444_6b0d441967_c.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5489/10506674084_4c19b39620_c.jpg

Question for those who run the 034 fuel rails on a twin turbo set up: how did you modify your ACF system (N80) and how did you hook up your N249?

EvilSmurf
10-27-2013, 03:59 AM
No EFK? And what happened to your upper IC couplers??

Looking good

Tec_Nine
10-27-2013, 04:58 PM
Build is coming along quite nicely.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

lo-lyfe
10-27-2013, 06:45 PM
No EFK? And what happened to your upper IC couplers??

Looking good

Going with an OEM fan for now. Do like JHM's EFK though, just not in the budget currently....

You noticed that, eh? Old set of couplers I found laying around. In a bright flash of imagination (and foolery), I decided to paint those black a while back. Unbeknownst to me at the time, header paint does not adhere well to rubber, hence the fancy graphic design. Fishing around for my OEM set of couplers and should have them installed before the bumper goes on.

lo-lyfe
10-27-2013, 06:55 PM
Finally!


http://www.flickr.com/photos/90961538@N07/10525673814/

hotshot32890
10-27-2013, 07:08 PM
Nothing like that first start [up]

lo-lyfe
10-27-2013, 07:46 PM
Nothing like that first start

Indeed!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVv4EEhkaxE&feature=player_detailpage