PDA

View Full Version : My F21 BT/E Build Thread



Pages : 1 [2]

FlyboyS4
10-27-2013, 06:57 PM
[up]...

lo-lyfe
10-29-2013, 03:40 PM
So...having issues with the Bosch 044 fuel pump in the surge tank. The car starts and runs off the stock fuel pump in the trunk but when we power up the surge pump, the car dies immediately. Getting good fuel pressure and the voltage on the 044 checks out....

Also, the FPR housing from 034 is a great thing. Dump your OEM FPR into it and you can run AN lines. Just don't forget the clip, otherwise the FPR will go airborne and you will have a mess on your hands. Well, we lost the clip and tried to zip tie the FPR securely in the housing. The FPR ended up snapping the plastic ties. Next we tried double the ties and the FPR cracked the housing and snapped the ties. I've placed an order for a FuelLab FPR that should be here before the weekend. Small setback...

URBsuburban
10-29-2013, 06:36 PM
good job man, cant wait to start mine in the service mode position! brilliant black FTW

S4 00 2.7
10-29-2013, 07:21 PM
I like the color combo on the IM and valve covers. What intake is that? 034?

hots4auce
10-29-2013, 07:34 PM
Great build!!! Starting disassembly in 2 weeks to start my 3L build. Just got my 3L 10:1 comp JE pistons in the mail today.
Can't wait for my first start.

lo-lyfe
10-30-2013, 07:01 AM
I like the color combo on the IM and valve covers. What intake is that? 034?

Thanks and yes, X34 CAI

lo-lyfe
10-30-2013, 07:07 AM
Some members asked a while back about my wheel setup. I specified running 10mm spacers in the front and 15mm spacers in the rear. With my wheel offset being +38, the effective offset ended up as +28 in the front and +23 in the rear. From everything I've read about the Rotas in that particular spec I didn't think I would experience any issues. However, that is not the case. Running a 10mm spacer in the fron IS NOT enough to clear the caliper. I had to switch my 10mm spacers to the rear wheels and the 15mm spacers to the front. The +23ET in the front gives me appx. a 2mm clearance between the spoke of the wheel and the caliper. For those daring enough a 12mm spacer may suffice if you're truly intent on reducing the poke. I ordered another set of 15mm spacers to even out the look and plan on rolling and pulling the fenders ASAP.

lo-lyfe
10-30-2013, 07:10 AM
[up]...


Thx. Took a long time but finally got there.

ama
11-01-2013, 04:02 AM
Final bath and detail before she goes in for some int/ext TLC...

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8140/8702458923_96d0a98579_c.jpg

Can't wait to finally get rid of the monster truck status!
What bumper is this? Custom?

BlueDream B5 S4
11-01-2013, 04:42 AM
What bumper is this? Custom?

Looks like a S4 bumper with the RS4 mesh mod, center bars cut out, fogs removed and a cupra r lip.

So clean.

BTW, OP this build thread is sick. Learned a lot reading through here. Thanks

ama
11-01-2013, 05:36 AM
Received this today. Have to say, my favorite truck is Brown. Hopefully the turbos and injectors will be here by the weekend. Plan is to pull the motor over the weekend, providing I can secure a bay at the shop. Once the car is under the knife the LCD cluster will be going out for repairs.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7299/8718300417_05ec2184af_c.jpg

was wondering can it read two different afe data?

ama
11-01-2013, 05:37 AM
Looks like a S4 bumper with the RS4 mesh mod, center bars cut out, fogs removed and a cupra r lip.

So clean.

BTW, OP this build thread is sick. Learned a lot reading through here. Thanks
Custom )

ss4
11-01-2013, 08:47 AM
Beautiful build and congrats! I only have one suggestion though... Please put better quality clamps at least on the pressure side of things. Look up ABA stainless clamps (probably the best worm gear clamp available and not too expensive). Dont want a boost hose popping off at 20 plus PSI. No need for the bulky t-bolt clamps.
Can't wait to see your car dialed in with these new Frakens :)

Doug@FrankenTurbo
11-01-2013, 09:45 PM
Please put better quality clamps at least on the pressure side of things.

No doubt about the need for very strong clamps. My guess is you'll be running at 30psi or above and the hardware needs to be really stout.

joe dub
11-02-2013, 12:04 AM
^^^ you guys think that he will be better off with a worm gear clamp, seriously?

lo-lyfe
11-02-2013, 11:18 AM
Had an hour or so to devote to the build so I decided to dial in the ride height in the rear and remove the lines leading to the n80 valve and charcoal canister. Cleaned up the engine bay a bit more without the now-unnecessary plumbing. I'd like to have the n80 coded out eventually; in the meantime the n80 is plugged in and capped off, so I shouldn't be throwing any codes...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7307/10630055855_4222cff7b9_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7460/10630103704_1188955c2b_c.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5510/10630100804_ae4a648fe7_c.jpg

tosh2.7
11-02-2013, 01:31 PM
wow the poke in the front is terrible(which I'm presuming you think that too)

lo-lyfe
11-02-2013, 01:41 PM
wow the poke in the front is terrible(which I'm presuming you think that too)

Yes, which is why I plan to roll and pull the fenders. Although its still tough to judge as there's a lot of toe out on the front wheels due to the control arms not being adjusted properly. Once the toe and camber is dialed in I'll have a better idea of how bad the poke actually is.

Edit--> The front steering is actually set straight. If you were to look at that driver's side front wheel you'd swear the steering was veering left quite a bit. Same goes for the other three wheels. Alignment on this car is going to be a total PITA.

lo-lyfe
11-02-2013, 01:42 PM
Looks like a S4 bumper with the RS4 mesh mod, center bars cut out, fogs removed and a cupra r lip.

So clean.

BTW, OP this build thread is sick. Learned a lot reading through here. Thanks

Spot on: RS4 bumper mod and thanks, appreciate the compliment.

lo-lyfe
11-06-2013, 07:33 PM
Quick update: Haven't had the time to work on the car but plan on getting to the shop over the weekend. Picked up two more needed parts:

FueLab FPR to replace the stock FPR/034 housing combo we fired to the roof and subsequently destroyed and a Mishimoto catch can. Gotta say, pretty impressed with the quality of the latter. Top notch packaging and quality. Like the finish and its the perfect size to fit in front of the coolant reservoir. The issue with the 034 Vortex can is that the inlet is both large and mounted on top of the can. This combo made it impossible to mount it in the desired location and keep the required hood clearance.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2842/10718898185_a6505f0b1d_c.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5498/10718986754_198f9f6325_c.jpg

Meow
11-06-2013, 07:48 PM
looks like 18x9.5 et20? should be able to roll/pull fenders to make it fit better.


Hope to see this thing around soon... or next spring at least.

starfuryt550
11-06-2013, 10:05 PM
Great build!!

lo-lyfe
11-07-2013, 05:57 PM
looks like 18x9.5 et20? should be able to roll/pull fenders to make it fit better.


Hope to see this thing around soon... or next spring at least.

Hoping to get her out and about before the snow hits. Plan is to store her for the winter...et38 but running 15mm spacers in F & R for an effective et of +23. Correct, 18x9.5 and yes, fender rolling/pulling is on the agenda. Will also shave the door blades/moldings as well. Looking for a smooth look...then vinyl for Summer 2014.

lo-lyfe
11-07-2013, 06:00 PM
Great build!!! Starting disassembly in 2 weeks to start my 3L build. Just got my 3L 10:1 comp JE pistons in the mail today.
Can't wait for my first start.

Missed this..sorry. Good luck on the 3l build. When/if I do this again I will go 3 liter and probably single turbo. My regret with this current build is not doing the pistons. $$ was already stretched and my Mahles were still in good shape...

lo-lyfe
11-07-2013, 06:05 PM
Update:

Got the FPR and catch can installed. Yep, deleted the windshield washer fluid reservoir. Car will not be driven in the winter and I do not intend on driving it in the rain. Weekend and track ride only, so the windshield washer fluid omission should not impact my enjoyment of the car too severely.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5471/10733834426_8a85e217f5_c.jpg

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7325/10733843134_7a9df19ea1_c.jpg

Here's the bay as a whole...

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2889/10734054013_2f5ef258b9_c.jpg

And a minor setback. The circuit breaker for the battery relocation broke. When I went to flip the lever the plastic piece snapped off. Very brittle, apparently. I contacted 034 and hope to have a replacement shortly...

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7419/10733751535_34c63a8493_c.jpg

lo-lyfe
11-07-2013, 06:07 PM
Great build!!

Thanks!

starfuryt550
11-07-2013, 06:14 PM
I have a question as I'm in the process of pulling my motor as we speak! I'll PM you.

lo-lyfe
11-08-2013, 05:11 PM
I'm throwing a p1650 code (DTC 18058). Tried resetting my instrument cluster manually (unhooking battery, turning ignition key to on position 5x) with no luck. My fuel fuse and control engine unit fuse are both in good shape but get no juice. My 353 relay works but the 372 fuel pump relay does not; the 372 relay clicks but does not engage. No current to the stock fuel pump in the tank; the surge works fine but is running of a different relay. When we piggy-back it to the 372 relay it stops working (no power). The car starts fine but stops immediately.

Long story short, I'm in need of someone local (St Clair Shores/Grosse Pointe area in Michigan) with access to VCDS who can reset my instrument cluster. Will happily pay $$ for the trouble since the car is stuck on the lift at the shop.

starfuryt550
11-08-2013, 08:57 PM
I wish I had one or I'd help.

Also, per this post, we are 30-40 miles from each other. My Audi is on a friends lift in Port Huron at the moment!

jibberjive
11-09-2013, 01:44 AM
I'm throwing a p1650 code (DTC 18058). Tried resetting my instrument cluster manually (unhooking battery, turning ignition key to on position 5x) with no luck.
If your car was previously an A-box and changing it in vagcom doesn't fix the p1650 code, have your tuner change cw_can_r.

lo-lyfe
11-09-2013, 11:12 PM
Accomplishments:

Attempted another manual reset of the instrument cluster. Apparently third time was the charm as the p1650 code disappeared and has not come back (so far)

Rewired the surge pump and corrected a plumbing issue on the FPR. Fuel pump runs smoother and sounds better. Car no longer shuts off with both pumps engaged

Buttoned down the radiator carriage, all associated wiring and plumbing, and spent 45 min attempting to get the bumper back on the car. I will definitely be getting a quick release of some sort installed on the bumper to make removal/installation easier.

To-Dos:

Alignment. Toe and camber is so off on all four wheels that the car barely moves when pushed.

Finish installing the STE PPD and clean up fuel pump wiring.

Install the skid plate.

Seat the piston rings by doing a couple of pulls.

Issues:

Car surges while idling, dipping below 900 rpm (to about 600) and surging back up to around 950. This surging does not stop even after the car has been running for a length of time. Very systematic and persistent....No misfires under throttle.

Some pics:

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2824/10771972106_0a81be53a1_c.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5517/10772026284_4f0a326342_c.jpg

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5521/10772028024_f6d757b012_c.jpg

And a couple of vids:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muqki4S0lnI


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQVlIuHRf4c

lo-lyfe
11-09-2013, 11:15 PM
If your car was previously an A-box and changing it in vagcom doesn't fix the p1650 code, have your tuner change cw_can_r.

Got it. Thanks!

rtl5009
11-10-2013, 06:23 AM
I reallllly like the blacked out front end with yellow laminex.

Good work.

Hyphy
11-10-2013, 08:55 AM
niceee!!

VTurbo
11-10-2013, 10:45 AM
Seriously one of the best build threads I have seen, well done sir. Super detailed and clean. An inspiration. [up]

zillarob
11-10-2013, 11:05 AM
Seems like quite a bit of work on the vac system. Might double check it, leak here can cause surging.
Could prob unplug/cap at the mani source to check it all quickly.
Reducer directly in front of the maf may not be ideal either.

happy2B5
11-10-2013, 11:16 AM
Refresh my memory...exhaust setup? 3" dps and 3.5" single. One mid muffler?

lo-lyfe
11-10-2013, 11:34 AM
I reallllly like the blacked out front end with yellow laminex.

Good work.

Thanks man! Think I have just enough Laminex left over to do the side markers.

lo-lyfe
11-10-2013, 11:35 AM
niceee!!


Seriously one of the best build threads I have seen, well done sir. Super detailed and clean. An inspiration.

Thanks guys.

lo-lyfe
11-10-2013, 11:39 AM
Seems like quite a bit of work on the vac system. Might double check it, leak here can cause surging.
Could prob unplug/cap at the mani source to check it all quickly.
Reducer directly in front of the maf may not be ideal either.

Yeah, definitely a case of idle searching. Will check the problem areas you ID. Thinking there may be a leak at the FPR barb for the vacuum hose from the intake mani. Did not have any Teflon tape at the time of the install.

lo-lyfe
11-10-2013, 11:40 AM
Refresh my memory...exhaust setup? 3" dps and 3.5" single. One mid muffler?

Yessir.

happy2B5
11-10-2013, 11:41 AM
Perfect. Sounded great in that short clip. That's exactly what I'm having installed this week :thumbup:

egli05
11-10-2013, 05:19 PM
i know its been said multiple times, but this is one of the better threads i've read through. tons of valuable information in here for people doing similar builds. Great write-up and i look forward to seeing what kind of numbers this makes when everything is dialed in. [up]

lo-lyfe
11-11-2013, 03:07 PM
i know its been said multiple times, but this is one of the better threads i've read through. tons of valuable information in here for people doing similar builds. Great write-up and i look forward to seeing what kind of numbers this makes when everything is dialed in. [up]

Thanks man. Having a hard time finding reverse so we had to push the car out of the bay for its alignment. I'm amazed at how light it feels. Have high hopes for both the dyno and the track.

lo-lyfe
11-11-2013, 03:13 PM
Having a really difficult time aligning the shifter and finding reverse. Getting to the point where I may have to drop the subframe (or tranny) and see whether I shaved enough off the linkage or maybe assembled the sleeves incorrectly. Did manage to get the alignment dialed in...which took only 2.5 hours, lol.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3760/10808381046_c988c92952_c.jpg

Tec_Nine
11-11-2013, 03:23 PM
that rubber gonna rub hard

Blake2423
11-11-2013, 08:29 PM
You should roll your fenders immediately

egli05
11-11-2013, 10:04 PM
OP are you shooting for a specific weight all said and done? any other weight saving mods in store?

lo-lyfe
11-12-2013, 08:19 AM
that rubber gonna rub hard


You should roll your fenders immediately

I was hoping the camber would tuck the front wheels in a bit more...but since I'm running only 1.8 deg of camber that ain't gonna happen. So yes, rolling and pulling the fenders is an immediate issue.

lo-lyfe
11-12-2013, 08:21 AM
OP are you shooting for a specific weight all said and done? any other weight saving mods in store?

Don't have a "target" weight in mind. Want to shed as much as is realistically possible while maintaining a small degree of comfort. Won't give up the radio or the A/C but do plan on deleting the moon roof. Also entertained the idea of removing the door moldings but don't want to settle for aluminum door cards. Now, if I could find door cards in carbon fiber...or learn how to lay carbon on my own...[evilsmile]

lo-lyfe
11-12-2013, 09:22 PM
Put in a late night at the shop. Having major issues with the JHM shifter trio and linkage cross-rod. The solid linkage is hitting the slave and preventing me from engaging reverse. Tried for hours to dial in the gears using an angle finder and going off the 3deg to the right/7deg back template. No luck. We then removed the coolant reservoir which allowed us access to the top of the tranny. When my buddy was trying to shift into reverse I could feel the JHM linkage hitting the base of the slave. I modified the linkage per JHM's instructions and double-checked my install to make sure everything is correct. Hoping anyone with this same setup can offer some assistance; is this issue common to this setup?

Progress: Took the car out for a quick drive to seat the piston rings. Did the three pull method. Definitely a lot of rubbing in the front. Good thing I intend to roll and pull the fenders because they took a bit of a beating. After returning to the shop we did the third oil change. Went with two quarts of Edelbrock SAE30 break-in engine oil, one container of a camshaft oil additive to prolong the life of the valvetrain, and topped it off with Shell Rotella T6. The previous two oil changes, the first to prime the turbos and the second to seat the piston rings used Advance Auto Parts' cheapest 5w30. Once that was done we installed the skid plate and adjusted the front coils to increase ride height.

To-Do's: By this weekend I hope to have the STE PPD installed. Going to run both boost and AFR to the PPD and my Podi gauge. Also hope to have the reverse issue figured out. Not being able to back the car out is not going to work long-term.

Finally took to the car our for a legitimate run. Here are some first impressions:

The ride is not as harsh as I thought it would be with the suspension/drivetrain mods and ride height. It is very noisy and rough, which is what I wanted. You can definitely hear the engine and the exhaust with the interior stripped. Also impressed with how well the car runs: no leaks, backfires, or issues of any kind thus far (knock on wood). My oil coolant level sensor isn't working properly and I do not have a windshield washer reservoir, hence the X-mass theme on my LCD. Throttle is very responsive as is the steering. Clutch does chatter quite a bit, as expected, but even more so with the sound deadening material removed from inside the car. The car feels very tight with no slop whatsoever. It also feels light. The difference between my Stage2 and this version is night and day. Wish I could be more eloquent but its damn late and I'm freakin exhausted. Looking forward to tomorrow and hoping for good weather.

A quick video of my buddy driving the car. Excuse the shakiness...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n11XgfqqGOY

And a couple of pics before we headed out...

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5519/10832263323_793ccbc5b8_c.jpg

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3786/10832259753_d00f31af30_c.jpg

Tec_Nine
11-13-2013, 07:30 AM
Good job sir

lo-lyfe
11-19-2013, 07:30 AM
Work has kept me from the shop the last few days. Before my hiatus we noticed a small oil leak working its way down the bell housing. Thought it might be the oil feed lines leaking from the top.... Nope. Thought it might be the turbos.... Not so. Tonight I plan on putting some dye in the motor and finding the source of the issue.

Back in its familiar position:

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3747/10945690675_4d2465ea13_c.jpg

pipe7284
11-19-2013, 07:58 AM
i want your wheels on my avant NOW!!!!

MikeyB3
11-19-2013, 10:25 AM
Car looks great! Those wheels. Mmmmm.

FlyboyS4
11-19-2013, 05:24 PM
Before my hiatus we noticed a small oil leak working its way down the bell housing. Thought it might be the oil feed lines leaking from the top.... Nope. Thought it might be the turbos.... Not so.

$5 - RMS

lo-lyfe
11-19-2013, 06:59 PM
$5 - RMS

Better not be...Brand new rear main was installed.

EvilSmurf
11-19-2013, 07:08 PM
Better not be...Brand new rear main was installed.

Ive seen it a million times unfortunately. They are very easy to not get perfectly flush. Good luck though!

URBsuburban
11-19-2013, 07:46 PM
Headlights are really growing on me, i want!

lo-lyfe
11-19-2013, 07:46 PM
Ive seen it a million times unfortunately. They are very easy to not get perfectly flush. Good luck though!

Thanks man. If the tranny has to come out so be it. It'll grant me easier access to the linkage...need to fix that dang reverse issue anyway.

oppositelock
11-19-2013, 09:42 PM
Shit, this makes me nervous. Just finished putting a new rear flange on my motor last weekend. Looks like you had the official tool too, judging by the parts pics in your first post. I didn't, so I cut the top off a 1L Schweppes tonic water bottle. Rear flange went on easily, but I can see how you just don't know whether that seal lip folded back on itself once it's on there.

lo-lyfe
11-23-2013, 02:52 PM
Shit, this makes me nervous. Just finished putting a new rear flange on my motor last weekend. Looks like you had the official tool too, judging by the parts pics in your first post. I didn't, so I cut the top off a 1L Schweppes tonic water bottle. Rear flange went on easily, but I can see how you just don't know whether that seal lip folded back on itself once it's on there.

I think that's what happened to us. This coming Friday is D-day for pulling the tranny and fixing the seal issue.

lo-lyfe
11-23-2013, 02:53 PM
Got this setup today. Running out to the local Radio Shack to pick up a SD card and plan on taking some non-shaky vids tomorrow, weather permitting.

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3781/11017547624_1484e655c9_c.jpg

RickG
11-24-2013, 07:20 AM
That front end looks badass! Good job, just curious about what the factory 4300k low beams look like through the yellow laminex?

S4 00 2.7
11-24-2013, 07:34 AM
I reallllly like the blacked out front end with yellow laminex.

Good work.

This! Good job on everything.

ElementR
11-24-2013, 01:51 PM
Wow, great build. Just joined recently and looking to get into a modded clean B5 S4 soon. Have my eyes on a few at the moment. Currenly own a couple high hp mustang cobras and a modded '07 Volvo S60R as my DD. To OP - Where are you located exactly? I see you are using Autolab (on Mack between 8 and 9?)... I'm in Grosse Pointe Farms. Never thought I would find a high end S4 build here in the local area.

Cheers,
Andy

lo-lyfe
11-24-2013, 04:21 PM
That front end looks badass! Good job, just curious about what the factory 4300k low beams look like through the yellow laminex?

Good question....Seem fairly bright and provide enough light to not be an issue during night driving. Will take a vid.

lo-lyfe
11-24-2013, 04:21 PM
This! Good job on everything.

Thanks!

lo-lyfe
11-24-2013, 04:32 PM
The plan was to take the car out today and put some miles on the motor. The weather did not cooperate; it was around 20-25 deg at its warmest, factor in the wind and it felt like we were in the single digits. Walked the dogs and decided to pack it in for the day. Plus, the RMS has me concerned; don't want to be spewing oil all over a clean motor. Not to mention, its a bitch pushing this car out of the driveway and onto the street (no reverse). So, maybe tomorrow.

I did some mod work on the front bumper, however. It all started with me trying to remove the bumper to get at a leaking lower radiator hose. Bumper was stuck on the passenger side buffer; took me over an hour of wrestling with it and using the prybar to finally get it off. Decided to remove the bumper covers and the plastic molding off the fender that holds the ends of the bumper and went with a quick release setup. Will take some pics tomorrow. Its not everyone's cup of tea but I'm more concerned with function at this point rather than aesthetics. The quick release allows me to remove the bumper in under a minute.

I have an Eastwood fender roller on the way with an estimated arrival of Tuesday. Friday I plan on resolving the rear main seal and reverse issue; Tues-Wed I intend to roll my fenders. Pics upcoming...

lo-lyfe
11-24-2013, 04:38 PM
Wow, great build. Just joined recently and looking to get into a modded clean B5 S4 soon. Have my eyes on a few at the moment. Currenly own a couple high hp mustang cobras and a modded '07 Volvo S60R as my DD. To OP - Where are you located exactly? I see you are using Autolab (on Mack between 8 and 9?)... I'm in Grosse Pointe Farms. Never thought I would find a high end S4 build here in the local area.

Cheers,
Andy

Yep, was using Autolab but the shop is in the process of changing ownership. Its currently closed and probably won't reopen until after the holidays. My family lives in the Farms on Fisher. I'm down the road a bit on Beaufait on the border of HW and GPW. After you pull the trigger on the b5 and find yourself in need of help let me know. Be happy to lend a hand.

~Tom

lo-lyfe
11-24-2013, 04:43 PM
i want your wheels on my avant NOW!!!!

Lol, I like your RPF1s. Much better wheel, IMO. Now, if they were only 18x10 or 18x10.5 you could powder coat them satin black and be all set. Car is looking awesome, btw. Great job.

lo-lyfe
11-24-2013, 04:46 PM
Car looks great! Those wheels. Mmmmm.

Wheels/tires are temps just to get me rolling. Looking at other options for next summer...most likely 255/35/18s paired with a lighter wheel.

ElementR
11-24-2013, 05:58 PM
Yep, was using Autolab but the shop is in the process of changing ownership. Its currently closed and probably won't reopen until after the holidays. My family lives in the Farms on Fisher. I'm down the road a bit on Beaufait on the border of HW and GPW. After you pull the trigger on the b5 and find yourself in need of help let me know. Be happy to lend a hand.

~Tom

Small world... I'm right next to them on McKinley near Chalfonte. I'm probably going to unload my '04 MC Kenne Bell Cobra... car is an animal, but not really a family cruiser and is a bit out of place in Grosse Pointe - you know what I mean. GP Cops can smell me as soon as I fire it up! That'll free up the space for the S4 which although lower on power will be much easier to throw the kids in and go for a cruise. Things I'd like to do in the Cobra, I can't...like throw the kids in and head to the Pier Park. The car is low and has long tube headers which don't mesh well with the speed pump entering the park. The S4 is more of a wolf in sheep's clothing too. Anyway, I'm after a Stage 3 B4 so if you are aware of any nice ones not listed here please point them my way. I figure I can do a full motor build in the background while enjoying stage 3. Would be nice to have similar power to the Cobra's but with the control of AWD... was my ultimate goal with the S60R, but the drivetrain is simply not up to the task despite being able to build a capable motor.

Thanks for the offer on help. Good to know you're right around the corner for sure. Oxford beverage is on the way....;) Bummer on Autolab changing hands as that seemed like a great resource. Any clue on the new owners? Where are you going for dyno/tune by the way?

Andy

Doug@FrankenTurbo
11-24-2013, 06:02 PM
Sorry to hear the transmission has to come out. Hope to see you stretching the car's legs in a week or so.

Nick_04k
11-24-2013, 06:16 PM
Lo-lyfe, when you do your fender pull please make sure to get good coverage of the process and results. B5's dont have much available for solid info on this platforms specific pulls. I know a fender pull is a fender pull, but every platform has a little bit different technique to land perfect results. I want to see how much can be achieved without a respray being needed.

lo-lyfe
11-24-2013, 06:25 PM
Small world... I'm right next to them on McKinley near Chalfonte. I'm probably going to unload my '04 MC Kenne Bell Cobra... car is an animal, but not really a family cruiser and is a bit out of place in Grosse Pointe - you know what I mean. GP Cops can smell me as soon as I fire it up! That'll free up the space for the S4 which although lower on power will be much easier to throw the kids in and go for a cruise. Things I'd like to do in the Cobra, I can't...like throw the kids in and head to the Pier Park. The car is low and has long tube headers which don't mesh well with the speed pump entering the park. The S4 is more of a wolf in sheep's clothing too. Anyway, I'm after a Stage 3 B4 so if you are aware of any nice ones not listed here please point them my way. I figure I can do a full motor build in the background while enjoying stage 3. Would be nice to have similar power to the Cobra's but with the control of AWD... was my ultimate goal with the S60R, but the drivetrain is simply not up to the task despite being able to build a capable motor.

Thanks for the offer on help. Good to know you're right around the corner for sure. Oxford beverage is on the way....;) Bummer on Autolab changing hands as that seemed like a great resource. Any clue on the new owners? Where are you going for dyno/tune by the way?

Andy

Small world indeed. I take Chalfonte to the folks' homestead basically every day. A Kenne Bell Cobra is no joke. Shame you have to dump it, but I agree, GP police can be a bit abrasive. I'd like to see the car before you sell it.

Its tough to source a good (virgin) b5s4. It took months for me to find mine and I had to drive out to Bay City to snatch it up. But then I wanted a clean slate on which I could experiment; you may have more luck finding your car and there are some nice examples of Stg3 b5s4s out there, especially out of state.

I think corporate will take the shop over for a few weeks before seeking out a new franchisee. My buddy who helped me build this car worked there. He's currently at a shop in Marine City. Will be heading out there this Friday to fix the rear main seal and the linkage. Once those issues are resolved I'll be scheduling a dyno session at Speed Industry in Troy. Josh (Epic Tuning) is handling the tuning on the car. My Stg2 tune was done by him and the car pulled hard with no issues, other than mechanical/part failures. Very satisfied with this version so far, even though its only a break-in file.

Tom

lo-lyfe
11-24-2013, 06:26 PM
Sorry to hear the transmission has to come out. Hope to see you stretching the car's legs in a week or so.

Thanks Doug. Sent you an email...

lo-lyfe
11-24-2013, 06:28 PM
Lo-lyfe, when you do your fender pull please make sure to get good coverage of the process and results. B5's dont have much available for solid info on this platforms specific pulls. I know a fender pull is a fender pull, but every platform has a little bit different technique to land perfect results. I want to see how much can be achieved without a respray being needed.

Nick, will document the process as best as I can. Will make no promises on the results though. This is going to be my first fender pull[:)]

ElementR
11-24-2013, 07:01 PM
Small world indeed. I take Chalfonte to the folks' homestead basically every day. A Kenne Bell Cobra is no joke. Shame you have to dump it, but I agree, GP police can be a bit abrasive. I'd like to see the car before you sell it.

Its tough to source a good (virgin) b5s4. It took months for me to find mine and I had to drive out to Bay City to snatch it up. But then I wanted a clean slate on which I could experiment; you may have more luck finding your car and there are some nice examples of Stg3 b5s4s out there, especially out of state.

I think corporate will take the shop over for a few weeks before seeking out a new franchisee. My buddy who helped me build this car worked there. He's currently at a shop in Marine City. Will be heading out there this Friday to fix the rear main seal and the linkage. Once those issues are resolved I'll be scheduling a dyno session at Speed Industry in Troy. Josh (Epic Tuning) is handling the tuning on the car. My Stg2 tune was done by him and the car pulled hard with no issues, other than mechanical/part failures. Very satisfied with this version so far, even though its only a break-in file.

Tom

Yeah, no issues heading out of state. I bought my '04 Cobra from a guy in Louisiana and the '93 from a guy in Western Wisconsin - drove that one home like 11 hours. It was stock at the time. I bought the '04 modded cause was having withdrawls while building my '93 (twin turbo 347 cube, megasquirt, etc) - it was taking too long LOL... plus I wanted it from the moment I saw it in an issue of a popular mustang mag. Here's a short video of the car before the previous owner sold it to me...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBtMRWUI1t8&feature=email

The B5 S4's I have my eye on are from different ends of the country so need heavy pictures/video's before I decide to go see one in person and pull the trigger. I'd likely have it delivered. My '04 was delivered as well as a prior mustang and had good experiences with the particular carrier I used.

Sure, we should meet up one day. I could drive the Cobra as long as the roads are salt free and dry. I actually have most of this week off for the holiday.

Andy

kingkhalilz
11-24-2013, 07:52 PM
Damn nice whip. Love the whole damn thing! Cant wait to see the numbers! good work!!!!

lo-lyfe
11-24-2013, 07:57 PM
Sure, we should meet up one day. I could drive the Cobra as long as the roads are salt free and dry. I actually have most of this week off for the holiday.

Andy, that's a mighty nice ride. Not sure if the b5s4 will be able to replace that...Not sure if I'd be willing to part with it either, even if it is a question of family priorities. I'm at the office tomorrow but will check my schedule for the rest of the week and PM you. Maybe we can meet up at Starbucks on Mack sometime this week. Would love to see that car in person.

ElementR
11-25-2013, 06:34 AM
Sure thing. Yeah, it's not apples to apples, but I think it's the right move in the end. I still have another Cobra ('93) with similar power.... just finished it this summer. Similar build to yours here in terms of extensiveness. Need to clean up a few misc items and tune it.

Meow
11-25-2013, 12:03 PM
Lol, I like your RPF1s. Much better wheel, IMO. Now, if they were only 18x10 or 18x10.5 you could powder coat them satin black and be all set. Car is looking awesome, btw. Great job.

black audis of michigan meet up? you, me, corbette, hardin and pipe? lololol

pipe7284
11-25-2013, 12:17 PM
I`m in

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/25/a4ysenab.jpg

lo-lyfe
11-25-2013, 06:50 PM
black audis of michigan meet up? you, me, corbette, hardin and pipe? lololol

Count me in, but its going to have to be after this weekend. Will be pulling the tranny on Friday. Also, want to take you up on the Vag-Com offer to reset my cluster. The p1650 code popped back up. You can use my Eastwood fender roller if you're ever in need in return.

lo-lyfe
11-25-2013, 06:51 PM
I`m in

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/25/a4ysenab.jpg

Gorgeous [up]

starfuryt550
11-25-2013, 07:25 PM
How's the build coming?

I want to see this car! We are pretty close. If there's a meet, count me in, but I'm in a blue Audi lol

pipe7284
11-25-2013, 07:29 PM
We no racist...we accept smurfs too

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

starfuryt550
11-25-2013, 07:48 PM
Lol

lo-lyfe
11-27-2013, 10:21 AM
Got this is the mail today, courtesy of Ebay. Plan on rolling the fenders either today or tomorrow, before we pull the tranny and tackle the RMS.

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2878/11088075125_29ea650333_c.jpg

Also ordered a new lower radiator hose. Made the mistake of first purchasing a knock-off from Rein. Huge difference in construction: the Rein has an end that is plastic and stiff. The sensor doesn't seat in it properly and it doesn't mate well to the radiator, hence the coolant leak from both. The OEM hose end is rubber and much more pliable. Offers a more flush fit. Should have went the OEM route from the get-go, but anyone out there looking to replace the lower radiator hose can profit from my mistake.

Got the GoPro mounted and played with it a bit over the last couple of days. Finally managed to produce my first video. Just a quick drive around the neighborhood to put a few miles on the car...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73nTZBkWB7Y

ElementR
11-27-2013, 06:57 PM
Nice. Those roads look familiar. :)

Ride looks very solid. Moross isn't too bad in that area, but how does it feel over rougher surfaces?

happy2B5
11-27-2013, 07:33 PM
Is it my phone or your go pro. Sound is less than desireable

pipe7284
11-27-2013, 08:03 PM
^^^ i thought it was my phone too. I guess not

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk

lo-lyfe
11-27-2013, 08:42 PM
Nice. Those roads look familiar. :)

Ride looks very solid. Moross isn't too bad in that area, but how does it feel over rougher surfaces?

Lol! Yes, you have to know where in Cambodia you can open it up a little...

Car handles like its on rails....but you definitely feel every bump on the road. So over rougher surfaces, although you shake like mad, it still feels solid. Thought it would be harsher, actually. And that's sitting on carbon fiber fixed back buckets.

lo-lyfe
11-27-2013, 08:45 PM
Is it my phone or your go pro. Sound is less than desireable


^^^ i thought it was my phone too. I guess not

Yeah, not your guys' phones. Love the Hero3...the resolution and the frame rate, especially on the Black version, are awesome. The mic, however, is its downfall. Sounds crappy any way you put it. Thinking about getting an external mic just so that I don't have to listen to 1920's radio noise.

lo-lyfe
11-27-2013, 08:47 PM
Update: Was being ambitious today thinking I could roll the fenders. Wasn't happening. Too dang cold and no matter how much I heated the fender, it just wasn't staying warm enough to roll. Once I saw the paint potentially starting to chip I stopped. Could have been my cheap Harbor Freight heat gun....Thinking fender rolling may have to wait until the Summer, or at least until I can get the car inside and somewhere warm

Nick_04k
11-28-2013, 10:13 AM
Get it in a buddies garage and throw a heavy coat of wax over the arches and heat the fuck out of them haha. Im dying to see how they'll pull for you.

UncleWhilly
12-10-2013, 09:00 PM
Update?!?!?!?

mikeb17
01-09-2014, 02:05 PM
What happened to this build?

Meow
01-09-2014, 04:59 PM
What happened to this build?

its been -15 to -5 for the past week here, bit chilly to be working on cars.

lo-lyfe
01-09-2014, 05:20 PM
Meow's right, been bitchin cold the last couple of days. Car's been put up for the winter, she's resting comfortably with only 250mi on the rebuilt motor (dang it!). Did wire in the STE PPD, however.

The agenda for the spring consists of: rolling the fenders, installing the meth kit, shaving the door moldings and blades, a respray or vinyl application, finishing breaking-in the engine, dialing in the tune, and lots and lots of spirited driving/pulls/and potential races--all filmed on my Hero3.

Stay tuned....

Meow
01-09-2014, 05:31 PM
potential races--all filmed on my Hero3.

Stay tuned....

best bring your a game

lo-lyfe
01-09-2014, 08:08 PM
best bring your a game

Bet! [:)]

uponone nogaro
01-21-2014, 07:36 PM
any updates

Audisseuss
01-21-2014, 09:57 PM
any updates

+1

lo-lyfe
01-25-2014, 10:37 AM
any updates

Car's in storage for the winter. Don't plan on doing anything more to it until the spring.

Nzila8
02-19-2014, 09:35 PM
black audis of michigan meet up? you, me, corbette, hardin and pipe? lololol

Next time y'all got a meet, hit me up lol http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/20/zety5ebu.jpg

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

uponone nogaro
03-04-2014, 08:09 PM
any updates

pipe7284
03-05-2014, 09:34 AM
Its still freezing cold here in Michigan....Holy hell has this winter been so focking long!!!! WHY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BTW...my car is running strong now with the EPL OTS tune....we still ahve to meet for some friendly pulls.

lo-lyfe
03-31-2014, 04:21 PM
Gave her a much needed bath...

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2877/13548570875_db1949a444.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mDeY6z)

uponone nogaro
04-09-2014, 05:40 PM
Any updates

FlyboyS4
04-30-2014, 03:44 PM
Any updates

2nd

lo-lyfe
05-02-2014, 08:14 PM
Update:

Been driving the moneypit for the past week. Put 380 miles on the motor so far (including last Fall) and hope to have the clutch broken in by end of next week.

The Good:

Car handles fantastic. Still can't get over how responsive it is and how well it goes in and out of turns. Going from the Bronco or the A6 to the S4 is almost like having to learn how to drive all over again. Have been able to resist the urge to get on it but the once or twice I did go into boost the turbos spool quickly. Strictly butt-dyno stuff but I'm impressed. Can't wait to start dialing in the car. Hoping to be around 28-30 psi. Fixed the reverse issue by dialing in the alignment of the shifter (7 deg right, 3 deg back). Patience pays off, I guess.

The Bad

My Podi boost gauge and the PPD both show my AFR being above 18.5
I lost my passenger side sway bar link the other day. Must have loosened up the bolt traversing our crappy Michigan roads. Anyhow, the link worked itself free of the sway bar and twisted off the eye loop. Luckily I was able to find it laying on the side of the street.
Still idle searching. Need to do a boost leak test ASAP.
Need to fix a leaking RMS.

On the Agenda
Fender rolling
Aquamist HFS-3
Axle replacement F & R (Driveshaft shop)
Homebrew widebody (shaving rockers and door blades)
CF trunk
Vinyl
More interior weight reduction

uponone nogaro
05-02-2014, 08:24 PM
you running the e85

zillarob
05-02-2014, 08:30 PM
Boost leak usually means rich, but that afr is def 1st on the list.

There are 2 bolts that hold the sway link, not sure how you could lose one. Make sure it is on the right side of the boss on the arm.

lo-lyfe
05-04-2014, 07:05 PM
you running the e85

Yessir...although now I think the current blend is more like e70[:)]

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7041/13923037077_4c1b17d6a9_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ndkcRp)001 (https://flic.kr/p/ndkcRp) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)

lo-lyfe
05-04-2014, 07:08 PM
Boost leak usually means rich, but that afr is def 1st on the list.

There are 2 bolts that hold the sway link, not sure how you could lose one. Make sure it is on the right side of the boss on the arm.

I have the 034 adjustable sway bar links and like an idiot I forgot to tighten down the bolts that attach the link to the sway bar. The driver's side bolts were loose as well but luckily that link stayed on. In too much of a hurry to get the car on the road, I guess...

jpurre
05-05-2014, 07:01 AM
Looking good.

uponone nogaro
05-05-2014, 06:49 PM
nice you dyno yet im curious to see how far you can push them f21 with rods and e85

kenc
05-05-2014, 07:34 PM
Just noticed you're in MI as well. Killer build, maybe I'll see you around and just gawk haha.

lo-lyfe
05-12-2014, 11:20 AM
Update:

Clutch is broken in. Logged the car a few times by doing 3rd gear pulls, first with the STE PPD and then with ME7 Logger. Like both options: the PPD for its simplicity and the ME7 Logger for its thoroughness. ECUxPlot is a fantastic graphing tool and Jibberjibe's write-up in the tech section proved to be extremely helpful.

Tried rolling the fenders this past weekend. Well...actually just the driver's side front fender. Tougher than I thought. Getting the metal warm enough yet not so hot that it bubbles the paint is tricky. It also demands a lot of patience to get good results; I spent about an hour on one side and its still not to my liking. Having a difficult time getting a good, even arc and pull. I guess if you're just rolling its not that big a deal but getting a consistent pull that follows the arch of the wheel well is a different story. My frustration got the better of me and I chipped the paint in a few spots. Not too worried as I plan on applying vinyl to the car but I'm withholding documenting and maybe even filming the process until I get proficient with it. Maybe by the time I get to the rears I will have this down.

Have the revisit the shifter issue. While I now have reverse I found out during one of the pulls that 5th gear does not engage. I guess going WOT from 4th to 3rd is not the best course of action for engine longevity. Luckily I caught that quickly enough so no damage done. Will be getting re-acquainted with the angle finder in the next day or so...

Posting the ECUx logs. Mind you, I am on a break-in file limited to wastegate PSI:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7338/13984326729_8784879f28_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/niKk8x)2001.5 Audi S4 8D0907551M 0261207143(1)_template_20140512_102517-Timing (https://flic.kr/p/niKk8x) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7329/13984356328_f01790ee31_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/niKtVS)2001.5 Audi S4 8D0907551M 0261207143(1)_template_20140512_102517-Spool Rate (https://flic.kr/p/niKtVS) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2901/14167682011_1059c3ff5d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nzX5gv)2001.5 Audi S4 8D0907551M 0261207143(1)_template_20140512_102517-O2 Sensor (https://flic.kr/p/nzX5gv) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2918/13984357280_5a42bd9326_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/niKudh)2001.5 Audi S4 8D0907551M 0261207143(1)_template_20140512_102517-Load & MAF (https://flic.kr/p/niKudh) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7326/14167682911_2e655c75c8_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nzX5x2)2001.5 Audi S4 8D0907551M 0261207143(1)_template_20140512_102517-IAT & Throttle Body Angle (https://flic.kr/p/nzX5x2) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5116/14170989545_7bfb45590f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nAf2tX)2001.5 Audi S4 8D0907551M 0261207143(1)_template_20140512_102517-Fueling (https://flic.kr/p/nAf2tX) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5277/14167683671_7b5aa4283c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nzX5L8)2001.5 Audi S4 8D0907551M 0261207143(1)_template_20140512_102517-Fuel Injector (https://flic.kr/p/nzX5L8) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7332/13984359270_22b7e82183_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/niKuNA)2001.5 Audi S4 8D0907551M 0261207143(1)_template_20140512_102517-EGT, IAT, Knock (https://flic.kr/p/niKuNA) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7366/14171042754_4560153e2c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nAfiim)2001.5 Audi S4 8D0907551M 0261207143(1)_template_20140512_102517-Compressor Map (https://flic.kr/p/nAfiim) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7386/13984353877_3456c61b89_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/niKtcB)2001.5 Audi S4 8D0907551M 0261207143(1)_template_20140512_102517-Boost & Wastegate (https://flic.kr/p/niKtcB) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7458/13984360778_0a23aeb663_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/niKvfA)2001.5 Audi S4 8D0907551M 0261207143(1)_template_20140512_102517-Acceleration (https://flic.kr/p/niKvfA) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7384/14147839756_7a249b62e8_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nycnRE)2001.5 Audi S4 8D0907551M 0261207143(1)_template_20140512_102517-Vehicle Speed (https://flic.kr/p/nycnRE) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)

FlyboyS4
05-12-2014, 02:24 PM
Looks like somebody was playing with an Etch A Sketch.

lo-lyfe
05-12-2014, 05:51 PM
ECU is on its way to ETG for its first revision...

lo-lyfe
05-12-2014, 05:52 PM
Looks like somebody was playing with an Etch A Sketch.

lol! Good comparison. That's exactly what my Etch-a-Sketch renderings would look like.

...but not too bad for a first attempt at graphing logs, no?

Cacti
05-12-2014, 06:55 PM
What racing seats do you have in there?

LoonyBoyo
05-12-2014, 07:53 PM
Some members asked a while back about my wheel setup. I specified running 10mm spacers in the front and 15mm spacers in the rear. With my wheel offset being +38, the effective offset ended up as +28 in the front and +23 in the rear. From everything I've read about the Rotas in that particular spec I didn't think I would experience any issues. However, that is not the case. Running a 10mm spacer in the fron IS NOT enough to clear the caliper. I had to switch my 10mm spacers to the rear wheels and the 15mm spacers to the front. The +23ET in the front gives me appx. a 2mm clearance between the spoke of the wheel and the caliper. For those daring enough a 12mm spacer may suffice if you're truly intent on reducing the poke. I ordered another set of 15mm spacers to even out the look and plan on rolling and pulling the fenders ASAP.

I'm running same grids as you as far as 5x112 et38 etc on 12mm spacers all round on rs4 b5 brakes all round and just enuff poke be it on 225/40/18 boots...no problems with the calipers touching the wheels up front as to your problem with s4 calipers touching which sounds odd though your running 235 wide iirc?

Read your build from start to finish just now and very good documentation [cool] I was going to go all jhm with the following:

JHM "Solid" shifter
JHM Delrin shifter stabilizer bushing
JHM Solid Linkage Upgrade
JHM HD LINKAGE CROSS ROD
JHM Solid Shifter Centering Spring

to compliment the JHM quick shift kit I have...what are your thought's on the JHM Solid Linkage Upgrade I noticed your running? Also are you running the gopro black + or just the go pro black? I read they have revised the mic on it... if your using the skeleton cage that will help too instead of the full waterproof casing for mic sound.

lo-lyfe
05-12-2014, 09:21 PM
What racing seats do you have in there?

NRG carbon fiber. About 12lbs without brackets. Not FIA approved, however.

lo-lyfe
05-12-2014, 09:40 PM
I'm running same grids as you as far as 5x112 et38 etc on 12mm spacers all round on rs4 b5 brakes all round and just enuff poke be it on 225/40/18 boots...no problems with the calipers touching the wheels up front as to your problem with s4 calipers touching which sounds odd though your running 235 wide iirc?

Read your build from start to finish just now and very good documentation [cool] I was going to go all jhm with the following:

JHM "Solid" shifter
JHM Delrin shifter stabilizer bushing
JHM Solid Linkage Upgrade
JHM HD LINKAGE CROSS ROD
JHM Solid Shifter Centering Spring

to compliment the JHM quick shift kit I have...what are your thought's on the JHM Solid Linkage Upgrade I noticed your running? Also are you running the gopro black + or just the go pro black? I read they have revised the mic on it... if your using the skeleton cage that will help too instead of the full waterproof casing for mic sound.

Thought for sure I would be safe with 10mm in front and 15mm in the rear but apparently that 2mm difference (your 12mm F vs my 10mm F) is just enough to hang the wheel spoke up on the caliper. Check clearance on your front wheel and I bet you'll see that if you were to bring the wheel 2mm closer to the hub the spoke would probably hit.

Love the entire JHM shifter combo experience. Difficult for me to comment on a single piece out of the setup as I've only run them all as a package, but as a synergy of parts the overall feel is like you are in a racekor. The shifts are short and crisp, without the slop of the OEM setup. A bit more grinding and noise than OEM but its a concession I will gladly make.

Word of caution: you had better dial this shifter in accurately and make sure you are comfortable and familiar with the shift pattern. Since the travel between gears is so much shorter, its not uncommon to think you're going into 5th when you're actually shifting back into 3rd, as the angles for each gear feel a little different from stock. You hear horror stories of guys doing that with stock shifters, especially in the heat of the moment, like in a 1/4 mile. Now that I'm starting to log the car and doing pulls I've decided to spent a bit more time configuring the JHM setup and verifying each gear engages consistently each time. Still need to gain confidence with it.

I have the Hero Black, not the Black +, and yes the mic is awful. Thinking about mounting an external one close to the vicinity of the tailpipe [evilsmile]

lo-lyfe
05-12-2014, 10:36 PM
nice you dyno yet im curious to see how far you can push them f21 with rods and e85

Not yet. Just sent Josh my ECU for a base file. Going to pick up their Flasher so I don't have to send out my ECU each time I need a revision. Heard through the grapevine ETG tuned a standard F21 BT car on e85 to 470awhp. Hoping this ported set of FT21 BT/Es with higher flowing "full back" turbine rotors, and upgraded thrust bearings can get me to 500+awhp. We shall see...Will post a vid of the dyno session for sure!

lo-lyfe
05-12-2014, 10:37 PM
Just noticed you're in MI as well. Killer build, maybe I'll see you around and just gawk haha.

Thanks, lol. I have to make it out to one of the Woodward meets. Trying but with a newborn baby at home its tough to make the time.

Audimilo
05-22-2014, 08:43 AM
updates?

lo-lyfe
05-26-2014, 12:59 PM
Update: Received a base file from Josh. Once I'm able to get the flashing software we'll start tweaking and dialing the car in. In the meantime, I need help from anyone with the JHM solid linkage upgrade. Lost the bottom nut and the bottom shim off the linkage. Must have come loose while driving, explaining my inability to align the shifter to engage all six gears + reverse. Trying to get the specs on both: the size of the nut and the length and radius of the shim, in order to source potential replacement parts. Reached out to JHM in the hopes I'll be allowed to purchase the nut and the shim through them. In case JHM refuses to sell just these two items I'm counting on members with the specs info to chime in...

bmoreS4
07-24-2014, 07:50 AM
In for updates, car looks great man.

lo-lyfe
08-14-2014, 08:48 PM
In for updates, car looks great man.

Thanks man, appreciate the compliment.

lo-lyfe
08-14-2014, 09:01 PM
Update:

Doing some more maintenance on the POS, mainly replacing old sensors and bit parts. Threw in some new BKR7Es gapped at 0.024 (vs old gap of 0.028) and reset base pressure on my FPR. When I replaced the plugs I noticed they were blackened and fouled. Plus, I felt the car was struggling a bit with power and going through corn like a fat dude at cross-fit goes through h2o. Also logged the car for misfires in VAG-COM and found on average 12-14 misfires per minute of idle running; apparently not enough to throw a CEL but enough to keep me looking. In any event, I did a throttle body adaptation and throttle body alignment in VAG-COM and then turned my attention to the FPR. Found that the FPR base fuel pressure was set with the vacuum hose attached, so I really wasn't set to the 3bar pressure the tune called for. Once I made the necessary adjustments the random misfires went away and the car performed much better. Finally managed a 3.77 FATS time at 21 psi. Very happy about that, especially since I plan to be around 28 psi when all is said and done.

Other random fixes: replaced the worm clamps around the silicone hoses, including the TBB, with t-bolt clamps courtesy of JEGS. Acquired two o2 sensors I have yet to swap out and made an appointment with a local muffler shop to weld my exhaust from the DPs on down. Tired of exhaust leaks and such every time I hit a pothole or what not.

Josh and Sean at ETG have been fantastic to work with, btw. Awaiting my 4th revision, after which I plan on scheduling a dyno session. Will be video taping that and posting it in this thread. Also in the wings is a meth kit and F&R axles from either the Driveshaft shop or 034.

Doug@FrankenTurbo
08-15-2014, 03:15 PM
Boost onset characteristics?

lo-lyfe
08-15-2014, 06:28 PM
Boost onset characteristics?

Emailed you the CSV file from that pull. But here's a chart or two:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3840/14744590089_cc2aeb86fc_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/osVSWv)08-14-2014 FATS-Spool Rate (https://flic.kr/p/osVSWv) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3844/14744589310_7c18d02825_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/osVSH5)08-14-2014 FATS-Compressor Map (https://flic.kr/p/osVSH5) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)

aysix
08-16-2014, 08:08 AM
Good shit. Don't get too worked up by fats if you don't get them to where you want. Are you logging wideband?

lo-lyfe
08-16-2014, 06:20 PM
Good shit. Don't get too worked up by fats if you don't get them to where you want. Are you logging wideband?

Thx man! Zeitronix zt-3.

Speaking of FATS hang-up: Did another pull yesterday on a revised file. Same requested boost but a bit more "oomph" at initial onset, bit more torque as well. FATS time went up, but my IATs increased due to warmer ambient temps. +15 deg delta cost me a tenth of a sec or so. Stuff like this motivates me to add meth ASAP. Working on a Aquamist HFS-3 and hope to have it by mid-to-late Sept. But like you said, FATS is such a subjective metric, and unless you can replicate conditions perfectly from run to run, revision to revision, its difficult to get a gauge on improvement to performance (or lack thereof). So I'm not going to get too upset...in fact, I'm not sure where I expect FATS to be. Read someplace 3.77sec FATS is 996tt territory, so that's not too bad. Plus, if I want to make myself feel better and redeem a shitty FATS performance, I'll do a run where its 55-60deg and humid; believe our S4's like that type of weather.

FlyboyS4
08-16-2014, 08:34 PM
FATS isn't a subjective measure, but it is subject to a number of influences that make it challenging to use as a bench marking tool between cars and even on the same vehicle. 3.77 is a solid time for the PR's your tune is operating at.

lo-lyfe
09-16-2014, 08:32 PM
Update:

Just as things were starting to look up....Doing a couple of pulls, testing out a revision with adjusted fuel trims...Car is running solid...Getting on the freeway (in Aguascalientes, MEX), going WOT in third, try shifting into fourth...NOTHING. try shifting into fifth...Nothing; sixth...nothing. Basically coasted off the x-way in neutral. Stopped at a red light and the car shifted into first no problem. Keeping RPMs under 4k, shifted into second and third...again, no issues. So now I'm thinking my shifter is out of alignment with all the dialing in I've been doing trying to find reverse (still no luck with that, btw). So I pull over into a parking lot, do some quick adjusting with the angle finder, test gear engagement with the car off, and try again. Another quick pull in 3rd and --- and a repeat episode: the car refuses to shift into gear under high rpm. Gets worse, now I'm having difficulty engaging any gear with the motor running.

Limp home and take it to a buddy's shop the following day. Order a new slave, replace the old one, bleed and test. Pedal feels soft, does not reset well, and gears won't engage with engine on. Bleed again and repeat: no change. Order a new master cylinder and replace. Bleed and retry: nothing...gears will not engage.

So now I'm thinking worse case scenario: throw out bearing or pressure plate issue. Will be pulling the tranny on Monday. The Bad: clutch and flywheel have less than 1.5k miles. Makes me think the shop that installed the LWFW/clutch combo (034 flywheel w/Clutchmasters FX400 6-puck) did not do a proper job. Unfortunately the shop is out of business and I'm SOL when it comes to any warranty work on labor, etc. The Good: had to replace the RMS anyway, so that will be getting done while the clutch is being inspected. Hope to be up-and-running in two weeks.

happy2B5
09-16-2014, 08:39 PM
Damn man. Keep at it. Youll get there

Audimilo
09-16-2014, 08:49 PM
damn bud. you'll get her dialed in shortly. keep it up

jpurre
09-17-2014, 06:23 AM
Sorry to hear the bad news. As stated, keep at it. You will get there. It's such a struggle with these cars. I'm still figuring out some tune issues and leaky check valves. Very frustrating when you think you got it and then Wham! it brings you down to the basement.

lo-lyfe
09-17-2014, 05:17 PM
Damn man. Keep at it. Youll get there


damn bud. you'll get her dialed in shortly. keep it up


Sorry to hear the bad news. As stated, keep at it. You will get there. It's such a struggle with these cars. I'm still figuring out some tune issues and leaky check valves. Very frustrating when you think you got it and then Wham! it brings you down to the basement.

Appreciate all the support! Way too deep in it to quit or give up: too much $$, blood, sweat, and tears invested to just walk away. I see this setback as an opportunity to improve the car.

lo-lyfe
09-26-2014, 08:07 PM
Finally back on the road! Flywheel bolts backed out due to excessive vibration and no loctite. Replaced the RMS and fixed the reverse issue while the tranny was out. Plan on taking some logs tomorrow and doing a Go-Pro video. Can't wait!

happy2B5
09-26-2014, 08:08 PM
Nice. Look fwd to some video

lo-lyfe
11-19-2014, 03:03 PM
Addressed a leaky exhaust. Decided to add flanges to the Magnaflow muffler and the exhaust, creating a tighter seal. Also had a straight pipe fabbed up with the same for some track and otherwise "I wanna be abnoxious" use. Let me say this, the straight pipe option is LOUD.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7484/15831407672_8da8cc4d1a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/q7Y6WG)032 (https://flic.kr/p/q7Y6WG) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/), on Flickr

t304 stainless all the way around...

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5603/15827969301_fa4259d709_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/q7EtQr)025 (https://flic.kr/p/q7EtQr) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/), on Flickr

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7487/15209885634_a082137171_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pb3D6u)024 (https://flic.kr/p/pb3D6u) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/), on Flickr

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5616/15644698847_26b107d0ae_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pQtaV2)023 (https://flic.kr/p/pQtaV2) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/), on Flickr

Big thanks to ElementR for recommending this guy; his work is exceptional and prices very reasonable. Exhaust video to follow shortly....

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7485/15209871724_702d5d98dd_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pb3yXE)022 (https://flic.kr/p/pb3yXE) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/), on Flickr

ElementR
11-19-2014, 03:13 PM
So you did make it out there! Cool to see. Greg does great work and yep he's fair too. I bet the drive home must have been fun with the mess we got today!

lo-lyfe
11-19-2014, 03:17 PM
So you did make it out there! Cool to see. Greg does great work and yep he's fair too. I bet the drive home must have been fun with the mess we got today!

Actually had it towed back. Yep, AAA'd her all the way home. Waited 1.5 hours for the tow truck but it was worth it. The suspension isn't set up for snow, she was all over the place and I didn't want to bang her up. Swapped out the n249 valve today, got the crank position sensor which I plan on installing tomorrow along with the MAP sensor that is due to be delivered. Supposed to have some 50deg days coming up and I'm hoping I can do some logging.

ElementR
11-19-2014, 04:53 PM
Ah, very good call! Might as well use that AAA membership. Looking forward to the warmer temps too. Hope you get some positive results with the new hardware.

lo-lyfe
12-28-2014, 09:06 AM
Reworked some of my vacuum line plumbing, swapping out the red silicone for something more sturdy. Gathering parts for a mid-Winter/early Spring overhaul. Mods will include meth, fuel cell with Aeromotive Eliminator in-line and Aeromotive fuel filter running lines inside the car, 034 or Driveshaft Shop axle and driveshaft upgrade, BBK, and possibly a new set of wheels...Pics of parts inventory and install to come.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7463/16103679126_c735a8d11a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qx2yL7)057 (https://flic.kr/p/qx2yL7) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7474/15942156560_111a3d64fc_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qhKHJh)049 (https://flic.kr/p/qhKHJh) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7572/16128718432_db6305864f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qzeU5h)048 (https://flic.kr/p/qzeU5h) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7461/16129467475_a30b07cf78_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qziJJP)047 (https://flic.kr/p/qziJJP) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)

lo-lyfe
03-27-2015, 07:23 PM
So...Michigan has a sick sense of humor. Likes to tease you with near 60 deg temps and then slap you back down to reality with 30s and snow flurries. Been working away on getting the car ready for this Spring. Ordered the 034 meth kit with the failsafe. Also picked up front and rear Driveshaftshop axles to reinforce what is definitely a weak link on my setup (running Empi aftermarket garbage currently).

In the process of cutting out the OEM fuel tank. Already rid myself of the spare wheel well. Comes out rather easily with an angle grinder and sawzall. With the well removed I will focus on rustproofing more of the carriage. For anyone interested in a similar project, I've tried a number of rust-proofing products, including Eastwood's Rust Converter and Rust Encapsulator. While the Rust Converter works well as a treatment to prep the surface for sealing, the Rust Encapsulator leaves much to be desired as a finishing product. Rust re-appeared relatively quickly post-application, and the car isn't driven in either rain or snow. Still, apparently humidity was enough to do the trick (and that is after three coats of the Encapsulator). I did find a much better solution: The Rust Bullet. This stuff is expensive; close to $40 per pint, and comes in gunmetal. But outside of that, it works like magic. Does a phenomenal job coating over rust and prevents its from spreading.

Threw in some pics of the new merchandise...still waiting on my Aeromotive fuel filter (100 micron). Might end up buying another one and running one on the out and one on the return side. The lines are 30R9 (e85 compliant) and will be ran under the carriage. Also picked up a 36"x36"x0.125 piece of aluminum I will use to cover the hole made by the absent wheel well. The fuel cell will be sunk low, preferably flush with the trunk, if clearance issues with the axles and/or exhaust don't nix that idea.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8703/16763056128_25015b8444_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rxi3z7)011 (https://flic.kr/p/rxi3z7) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)
Battery mount from Rennline. Love this thing; comes with a kill switch mount that will ultimately be utilized with a pull handle mounted below the tail light.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7585/16764531889_a1236e1d31_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rxqBgg)017 (https://flic.kr/p/rxqBgg) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)
Bunch of AN fittings and fuel lines from JEGS

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7597/16764528609_0579d5cc45_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rxqAhH)025 (https://flic.kr/p/rxqAhH) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)
...and the Aeromotive Eliminator 15gal fuel cell. Some may question this decision, especially since I'm on FT21s (modified, albeit), saying its not necessary for the power levels I'll be putting down. Well...not gonna argue that but I did have an issue with a fuel filter I replaced (fuel line got nicked and started to leak)...so while I was at it I decided to just get rid of the whole OEM fuel setup. I was half-way there with the rails and lines as it is (EVAP delete as well), and I'm not sure what my future turbo demands might be.

I'll post up some pics of the actual work tomorrow. Plan on spending some time in the garage, regardless of weather.

lo-lyfe
03-28-2015, 12:14 PM
A bucket of warped sheet metal and assorted plastic/rubber. The OEM fuel tank is proving to be a PITA to remove. Anyone know if you have to drop the rear subframe in order to get it out. Been hacking away bits pieces of the darn thing hoping it will eventually just slide out.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8705/16957932405_5a0c64f051_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rQvQuV)002 (https://flic.kr/p/rQvQuV) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)

The 100 micron fuel filter. Definitely going to purchase another one next week and run it in tandem (on the return side). So small and takes up so little space.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8727/16335542114_3b5c262a08_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qTvVxQ)004 (https://flic.kr/p/qTvVxQ) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)

The sheet of aluminum that will cover the hole made by the spare tire well removal. Will be color-coated to match the rest of the interior. Fuel cell will retain its natural aluminum color.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8716/16770290588_2f67f9410a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rxW88b)009 (https://flic.kr/p/rxW88b) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/people/90961538@N07/)

landfill
03-28-2015, 03:04 PM
You have to drop the rear subframe. Make it easier on your self and drop it down.
Then the ****** will come right out.[up]

lo-lyfe
03-29-2015, 02:25 PM
You have to drop the rear subframe. Make it easier on your self and drop it down.
Then the ****** will come right out.[up]

Thx! I was hoping to not have to do that. But it is what it is, lol. Thinking I did enough trimming and have enough clearance right now to get away with just dropping the subframe an inch or so. Should be able to "persuade" the POS out [evilsmile]

landfill
03-29-2015, 10:04 PM
Yea that's the easiest way unfortunately. Nothing's easy on this car of course.
Also I wanted to save the tank in case I found a use for it down the road. Hence
no cutting/trimming. I can have a chevy tahoe fuel tank out in 10 f'in minutes.[headbang]

lo-lyfe
05-30-2015, 08:53 AM
Update: OEM fuel tank removed. Underside of the car has been rust-proofed. Will have pics of the end result shortly but let me just say that it was a lengthy process between cleaning the underside and applying the rust protective paint (Rust Bullet). 034 OEM meth kit arrived, as did the fail safe. Very excited to see how a 70/30 water/meth spray does in combination with e85:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8758/18271549151_cc66c39455_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tQAsZv)036 (https://flic.kr/p/tQAsZv) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90961538@N07/)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8787/18082307708_1189df1f02_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/txSy71)037 (https://flic.kr/p/txSy71) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90961538@N07/)

Also received the DSS front and rear axles. Definitely a big difference over the Empi aftermarkets I was running. Another weak link in my current setup removed:

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7766/17649477403_0d58bc5ffc_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sTCbJx)040 (https://flic.kr/p/sTCbJx) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90961538@N07/)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8880/18083893809_41e2418442_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ty1FAz)039 (https://flic.kr/p/ty1FAz) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90961538@N07/)

landfill
05-30-2015, 11:58 AM
Definitely good products. The DSS stuff is very stout.

uponone nogaro
07-12-2015, 12:51 AM
How is the car running any updates

Drehmoment
07-12-2015, 01:16 AM
Why are you running a fuel cell ?

lo-lyfe
07-26-2015, 03:09 PM
Why are you running a fuel cell ?

Had an issue with my fuel filter banjo bolt leaking...at which point I was like, why not, if I have to replace the fuel lines mind as well run braided and drop in a fuel cell. This car is gradually going to transition from being a weekend ride to a dedicated track car...pretty sure where this is all headed, so a fuel cell would have eventually been on the mods list regardless.

lo-lyfe
07-26-2015, 03:21 PM
How is the car running any updates

Its not, lol. Still in pieces. Waiting on some bolts and such to be delivered before I can start piecing together the rear subframe/suspension. Then its the front's turn. Finally I'll turn my attention to the body: shaving blades and rockers and adding fender flares to accommodate the 18x9.5 Klutch Sl5s mated with 265/35/18 rubber, followed by a respray. Hoping for a chance to drive it this year before putting it away in storage for the winter. We shall see...

lo-lyfe
07-26-2015, 03:36 PM
An update:

Rear suspension components finally finished. Just waiting for some bolts to be delivered before re-assembly can begin. I may scrap the OEM driveshaft in favor of the DSS version before the car makes it back on the road. I also have to assemble the rear DSS axles and grab new front lower control arms, front hubs, and front bearings to complete my steel-to-aluminum front upright swap. Also need to order rear strut towers as the originals were badly rusted and unsalvageable.

Rear suspension/driveshaft components rust-proofed and painted:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/311/20036079845_6362fc73eb_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/www9uv)047 (https://flic.kr/p/www9uv) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90961538@N07/)
Aluminum uprights courtesy of fellow forum member spd579. Thanks!

Pic of the undercarriage rust-proofed. This was a very tedious process. All together three coats of Rust Bullet. The gaping hole is where the wheel well used to be and where the 15 gal fuel cell will make its home.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/409/19413448094_d17380072b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vzuZLj)031 (https://flic.kr/p/vzuZLj) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90961538@N07/)

...any finally a pic of some new wheels. Klutch SL5's in 18x9.5 ET+25 redrilled from 5x114.3 to 5x112. Will be mounting some 265/35/18 Nittos soon and doing some body mods, such as fender flares, and shaving the door blades & rocker panels.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3783/19848007408_b72cf535db_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/weUe7h)029 (https://flic.kr/p/weUe7h) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90961538@N07/)

One the car is sitting under load I will mock up the fuel cell and route my lines. Last will be the water/meth install. Still a ton of stuff left to do....

Cacti
07-26-2015, 05:14 PM
Looking good. Did you powder coat or paint the rear sub frame?

lo-lyfe
07-28-2015, 06:38 PM
Looking good. Did you powder coat or paint the rear sub frame?

thx. 2 coats of Rust Bullet preventive followed by 2 coats of Rust Bullet Gloss Black chassis paint, all applied by brush. Felt like the combination I chose would do better against rust, long-term, than powder coating. The finish isn't as smooth...although it might have been had I sprayed both compounds instead of brushing them on...but I wasn't going as much for looks as I was for function. I wanted this stuff on thick to last.

landfill
07-29-2015, 01:22 AM
For your subframe and suspension components
did you sand blast them before paint or just
prep them by hand?

christianb5s4
07-29-2015, 03:21 PM
Gorgeous build, can't believe I didn't see this until now. You did exactly what I'll do with my car someday, take everything apart and recondition from the ground up. I've already started, but nowhere near the extent of what you've done. [drool]

lo-lyfe
07-29-2015, 07:34 PM
For your subframe and suspension components
did you sand blast them before paint or just
prep them by hand?

Prep by hand. Used an angle grinder and sandpaper of varying grit to get the part down to bare metal. I then applied Eastwood Rust Dissolver and let it sit for 8 hours or so. Afterwards I applied a coat of Rust Bullet Automotive Rust Inhibitor Paint and allowed that to cure for 24 hours. A second coat and another curing period followed. Last I put down two coats of Rust Bullet BlackShell Rust Preventive with 24 hours between applications. The stuff creates an almost ceramic-type coating over the part. Very tough and very durable. However, if you apply by brush it does leave streaks as the preventive is fairly thick and dries quickly. By 'dries' I mean it hardens but still stays relatively sticky and will leave residue, hence the 24 hour curing period. Still, you can supposedly spray the Rust Preventive and you can definitely spray the Blackshell as the latter is not as dense. In hindsight I should probably have done that but as I mentioned above, I was going for thick coverage, not so much looks.

disrepos
07-29-2015, 10:54 PM
Prep by hand. Used an angle grinder and sandpaper of varying grit to get the part down to bare metal. I then applied Eastwood Rust Dissolver and let it sit for 8 hours or so. Afterwards I applied a coat of Rust Bullet Automotive Rust Inhibitor Paint and allowed that to cure for 24 hours. A second coat and another curing period followed. Last I put down two coats of Rust Bullet BlackShell Rust Preventive with 24 hours between applications. The stuff creates an almost ceramic-type coating over the part. Very tough and very durable. However, if you apply by brush it does leave streaks as the preventive is fairly thick and dries quickly. By 'dries' I mean it hardens but still stays relatively sticky and will leave residue, hence the 24 hour curing period. Still, you can supposedly spray the Rust Preventive and you can definitely spray the Blackshell as the latter is not as dense. In hindsight I should probably have done that but as I mentioned above, I was going for thick coverage, not so much looks.

Very nice. Love the attention to detail!

AudiSportB5S4
07-30-2015, 08:41 AM
That's awesome. I plan on doing the same thing to my car when the engine comes out at some point for turbo upgrade/engine refresh. Currently still going strong on K04s so I am not pulling anything apart until I have to!

uponone nogaro
08-19-2015, 12:34 AM
Been a long time any uplates builds looks sik

lo-lyfe
08-29-2015, 09:20 PM
Update:

Made some progress on the suspension. Rear subframe, diff, and driveshaft mounted. Sway bar and all associated components as well. Still waiting on some parts: rear strut towers, eccentric bolts, and some stretch bolts for the axles. Hoping by the end of the Labor Day weekend I can have the car sitting on the ground.

That's the good news. Bad news is I accepted the fact I probably won't get a chance to drive it this year. So much left to do...need to send out the rear calipers and hangers to get sandblasted and powder coated. Have to order the rear BBK upgrade (most likely from ECS). Need to procure a set of 18z front calipers and have those sand blasted and powder coated as well. Will run Girodisk 355mm rotors in the front. While on the topic of brakes, another item on the agenda is routing Aeroquip brake lines and fittings inside the car and out to the rear; will eventually switch to braided lines for the front as well. And I have to order new parking brake lines from ECS as the originals were in pretty bad shape so I scrapped them.

Once the car is sitting on the ground and under load I will mock up the fuel cell and route the fuel lines. Already have a schematic of how and where the lines will travel but want to check for clearances just to be safe. Finally the car will undergo some body modifications (shaving of the rocker panels and door blades and adding fender flares). To complete the cosmetic stuff I will change the color of the car. The long-term goal is to have the S4 ready for next Spring. In the meantime I will keep plugging away on the long list of To-Do's until Winter hits, then its time to bag the Audi and store it until the cold weather breaks.

Some pics:

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/645/20984171022_c5502376ee_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xYimY7)049 (https://flic.kr/p/xYimY7) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90961538@N07/)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/674/20807225079_22a3588989_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xGEt6Z)050 (https://flic.kr/p/xGEt6Z) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90961538@N07/)

lo-lyfe
09-06-2015, 08:20 PM
More progress on the suspension: Received a package from ECS Tuning containing my strut towers and driveshaft/axle hardware. Gotta love a company located close enough to where you select standard shipping and receive the goods in two business days. I debated purchasing a used set of strut towers...found a set online for half of what I paid new, but ultimately decided against it. Wanted to be sure rust wouldn't be an issue in the not-too-distant future. As such, I rust-proofed the back side of the strut towers as that was the area showing the worst ruts on my original set.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5669/21179808026_e0c1174f51_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ygA42U)002 (https://flic.kr/p/ygA42U) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90961538@N07/)

Must say, I am disappointed in the quality of the heim joints offered by 034 on the adjustable sway bar links (old version), the adjustable tie rods, and the adjustable rear control arms. Mind you, I put less than 2k miles on the car since going stg3 and stored it over the winter. In fact, the car realistically never saw rain. Still, the heim joints rusted horribly and had to be replaced. I opted for QA1 Endura Series rod ends in aluminum. A little pricey but definitely worth the added expense in terms of longevity and quality. Added in some dust boots for extra protection and spacers to keep the joints from binding.

Pics of the finished product:

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/617/21018171228_63458049cb_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/y2iC3y)019 (https://flic.kr/p/y2iC3y) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90961538@N07/)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5803/20583402314_3a55c391d6_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xmTjoN)015 (https://flic.kr/p/xmTjoN) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90961538@N07/)

Tomorrow I should have the exhaust mounted. On Tuesday I plan on dropping off my rear axles for the DSS rebuild. Tried doing it myself but lack the tools to removed the old shaft.

lo-lyfe
09-07-2015, 05:23 PM
Exhaust is on. Like the way it turned out. Now moving on to the axles and eventually the fuel cell....

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5716/21230737585_4dccb0b19b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ym65BK)003 (https://flic.kr/p/ym65BK) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90961538@N07/)

landfill
09-09-2015, 09:45 PM
You went with the DSS axles but left the stock 2 piece driveshaft?
Either way I love all of the adjustable suspension goodies. Doing
some cool stuff.

lo-lyfe
09-18-2015, 04:27 PM
You went with the DSS axles but left the stock 2 piece driveshaft?
Either way I love all of the adjustable suspension goodies. Doing
some cool stuff.

No, lol. Put the OEM back on temporarily so I can take the car to a buddy's shop and get it on the lift. One of the driveshaft bolts that attached to the diff stripped a bit and I need an impact to get it off. While there I will be throwing on the DSS single piece driveshaft.

ama
09-18-2015, 09:27 PM
No, lol. Put the OEM back on temporarily so I can take the car to a buddy's shop and get it on the lift. One of the driveshaft bolts that attached to the diff stripped a bit and I need an impact to get it off. While there I will be throwing on the DSS single piece driveshaft.

I know it sounds strange but after single piece driveshaft my car started making crazy vibrations around 80km/h
eventually sold it back to someone in the us

lo-lyfe
09-20-2015, 06:07 PM
I know it sounds strange but after single piece driveshaft my car started making crazy vibrations around 80km/h
eventually sold it back to someone in the us

I've heard about this issue before. Other ppl running the DSS driveshaft claimed vibrations above certain speeds. Strange b/c its supposed to be precision balanced. I'm not getting rid of the OEM one, just in case...

Spoorguy
09-21-2015, 08:26 AM
I had DSS driveshafts on my 2G DSM and I had no issue. I have no experience with them on a B5 but I never had vibration issues or anything that I noticed but I also didn't see over 60-70mph so maybe these guys who have had issues experience them at greater speeds. If I ever had to upgrade, I was going to pick up a set from DSS unless you tell us other wise from your experience.

lo-lyfe
04-28-2016, 04:56 PM
Finally.....

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1476/26609464182_df26ae2a61_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GxosDd)DSCN1892 (https://flic.kr/p/GxosDd) by Hussaria (https://www.flickr.com/photos/90961538@N07/)

jaychen
04-29-2016, 06:11 AM
XR770?

lo-lyfe
01-29-2017, 06:03 PM
So a quick update for anyone still interested. Summer was spent moving and working on a frame-off restoration for the Bronco. The S4 has been on the back-burner as a result, but the goal this summer is to get the Audi running. New TiAL turbos, drivetrain and suspension goodies, fuel system overhaul, new shifter, etc. In the meantime, some unrelated-to-Audi content:

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s445/lo-lyfe/Bronco%201.jpg

http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s445/lo-lyfe/Bronco%202_1.jpg

Bronco sports a 5.0L 302 with updated lifters, cam, pushrods, Mahle pistons. Also includes full length headers with turndowns, MSD ignition system, low-stall torque converter. Sits on 38x15.5x15 Nitto Mud Grapplers and 15x12 Baja wheels with 6" of suspension lift and 3" of body lift and 4.88 F & R gearing. Speaking of body, all panels - interior and exterior - have been replaced and coated with Rhinoliner bedliner inside and out. Exterior color is matte Olive green. Exterior trim is matte black.

Last, traded in the A6 for a F350 SD SRW with a 6.0L Powerstroke turbo diesel. Talk about easy to tune! An OBDII tuner (SCT X4) gets me to 450+ HP and over 800 lb/torque, with room to spare. Wish our B5S4s were that easy.

1thenaton1
01-31-2017, 04:50 PM
Great thread thanks for posting updates. But I don't quite understand the progression here. 2 years ago you were breaking in a tune on the F21 BTEs but apparently never got it dialed in? The graphs that you posted should have RPM on the X axis to make any sense. Do you have any feedback/results on the F21 BTEs or a reason that you decided to go with a different turbo set up? Seems like maybe something blew up that you took the car off the road but I didn't see a story about that. Cheers

lo-lyfe
01-31-2017, 06:59 PM
Great thread thanks for posting updates. But I don't quite understand the progression here. 2 years ago you were breaking in a tune on the F21 BTEs but apparently never got it dialed in? The graphs that you posted should have RPM on the X axis to make any sense. Do you have any feedback/results on the F21 BTEs or a reason that you decided to go with a different turbo set up? Seems like maybe something blew up that you took the car off the road but I didn't see a story about that. Cheers

Correct. Never managed to get the car dialed in properly. Would not boost past 18-21 psi, even though Josh (JFonz) provide revision after revision. Finally pegged the issue to a wastegate fault. Not sure if it is related to a manufacturing flaw or when the turbo was installed and clocked. I do recall that after we rotated the housing the actuator rod was very close to rubbing. Possible that its hanging up on the housing somewhat and preventing the wastegate from opening and closing as it should. Won't know until I pull the motor to install the TiALs. Will update the thread with the result.

Besides that I really enjoyed the F21 BTEs in terms of spool and responsiveness. Doug was wonderful to work with and very helpful. However, I built the car with the intent to eventually go bigger. After going for a ride in a friend's TiAL 605 S4 (ElementR), I was sold. Felt like the car spooled quickly and had plenty up top. Thinking that running my TiAL 605.2s on corn with a 70/30 water/meth spritz @ 28psi will be the best combination for what I have planned for the car.

ElementR
09-12-2017, 10:19 AM
Where is your update Tom?!!! You just had to build the Bronco and move to the stix didn't you! I managed to build my engine, R&R it three times, clutch done twice (thanks AMD), built engine in the Volvo/tuned, new wheels/body kit on the Volvo and mustang tuned in the last year while you're out on the farm playing with a Bronco. Just teasing. We want updates. [:p]

jcarruth
03-01-2018, 01:29 PM
I am currently running F21s on a corn mix with Autospeed FMIC on 25 psi and I have to say it feels great. Sucks that you couldn't get your setup dialed on the F21's because I wanted to compare. For anyone who is wondering about how the F21's act I can probably get a few logs. Also I will say as far as the wastegates go they are a bit sporadic, I have thought about swapping them but I don't mind as Im a full throttle or no throttle kind of guy.