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canadianA4B7
04-28-2013, 03:40 PM
so the car was taken to builder on friday last week. pics thursday nite after all goodies in the trunk.

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/DSC00646_zps6480c565.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/DSC00646_zps6480c565.jpg.html)

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/DSC00647_zps14305029.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/DSC00647_zps14305029.jpg.html)

so the build has started being built by cdn20valve from the C5 section.

whats going into the B7

S3 K04
S3 injectors
IE connecting rods and install kit
timing belt kit water pump all that stuff
Fluidampr
034 catch can
stage 4 clutch drakes performance
(and recently found out i need a flywheel)

updated pics recieved today

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/image_zpsb02a1117.jpeg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/image_zpsb02a1117.jpeg.html)

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/image2_zps450dfa1b.jpeg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/image2_zps450dfa1b.jpeg.html)

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/image3_zps831a2351.jpeg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/image3_zps831a2351.jpeg.html)

New stuff
MOTOR 2.???? Litres of fun
Brute rods
Mahale pistons 83mm 9:1 compression
S3 injectors
New crankshaft (ie w 1.8 pressed gear and balanced)
06A oil pump conversion (MEC's autohaus)
06A filter housing/IE adapter plate)
Sandwich plate for cooler
Mocal cooler (stainless lines)
Built head Ferrara 1mm oversized valves intake and exhaust springs and things all upgraded
Vast valve cover (if anyone was ever wondering where Shane drakes original VC ended up its in Canada)
ARP bolts
All new timing kit, gaskets kit,
Fluidampr
HPFP upgrades cam follower
3.2 throttle body
Aluminum motor mounts w upsized bolts
Stern trans mount

TURBO
GTX 2867 ceramic coated hot side
Manifold (ATP) ceramic coated
Replaced inlet oil line for longer one so turbos clocked at 90 degrees
Synapse external wastegate (may get painted)
Synapse DV

EXHAUST
All 3" all hand made custom fabricating mandrel stainless (in the works cannot complete until engine is in)
(Possible cut out)
3 resonators have been ordered
1 22" long for under passenger (no more drone got tired of hearing it at 24-2600rpm on highway)
2 10" possible at rear (to look like mufflers just in case the local authorities don't like the noise or look of straight pipes)

CLUTCH/transmission
JHM aluminum flywheel
JHM R pressure plate and disc
Metal slave cylinder
Stainless line
Aluminum master clutch cylinder (thank you Ebay.
JHM TRIO shifter linkages and cross rod (isn't this actually a Quattro not a trio??)
S4 knob and Nappa boot

FUEL
DW 301 in tank
RS4 controller
HPFP AUTOTECH internals
Removed the stainless T in the engine bay upgraded to 3/8" fuel rail to hpfp and 1/4" to 145 PRV
Snow performance Stage 3 kit (in the works need some stuff from usrally if they respond)

WHEELS/BRAKES
S4 santex black
Hankooks V12 EVO 255 40 18 all 4 camber to 2.5 degrees
18Z fronts stainless lines
S4 rears (looking for stainless lines)

Bits I need
#5 water meth nozzle (kit I bought only came w 2)
70mm water meth spacer for post throttle body
Ideas for mounting post intercooler nozzle (silicone coupler or should I weld a nut onto the intercooler pipe and tapp it to 1/8" not?)
Front plate filler (minor crack in mine may just fibreglass it)
Calipers colour change I'm up for ideas car it's Quartz grey I'm leaning towards an orange accent colour as I'm planning to black out all the chrome pieces. (Photo shop pros please inquire)

Things I'd like
RS4 complete wide body conversion (here's a dream that will never come true)
Seats anything lightweight (Kirkey, bimarco, sparco, recaro sportster, Porsche has some nice lightweights)
A unicorn
Someone else's visa number (MasterCard or American Express will do)

canadianA4B7
04-28-2013, 03:47 PM
and an update on the flywheel it not supposed to do this!! but its what OEM flywheels do. cars at 91,000Km ive only put on 34000kms. im not too abusive to the car i dont ride the clutch, no powershifting, nothing harsh. yet the previous owner was from quebec. enough said. anyways lil vids of the damaged fly EDIT ok i cannot post this vid i need to figure out how to upload.

vid for the DMFW as it is now

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1IloTNF3FtY&feature=youtu.be


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFV2yucRiQU



so anyone suggest the best flywheel to go with the stage 4 drakes clutch? im reading a single mass would likely be a better idea to replace this currently F***ked Dual mass.

ericpaulyoung
04-28-2013, 03:53 PM
Steel single mass from clutch masters. Look around, you can get them for about 450.

canadianA4B7
04-28-2013, 04:05 PM
was just going to ask you for your opinion. im looking for one as we speak. and 450 is a good price range. quoted 650CDN +gov taxes. i need to find this part ASAP!! thanx EPY i appreciate the help. can you tell me where you picked yours up?

Ordered this moments ago. outta go with whats suggested. SMFW will be shipped out tomorrow.

http://autoplicity.com/search.aspx?searchterms=FW-025-SF

ericpaulyoung
04-28-2013, 05:55 PM
Yup, you got it! that is the same place I ordered my last one from, same price too! :)

- Eric

canadianA4B7
04-28-2013, 06:03 PM
figured there were some other threads you had posted in which i read through and found out that link to their site. wont be as fire breating as yours but will be a great DD for myself.

ericpaulyoung
04-28-2013, 06:08 PM
The S3 K04 setup on our cars is actually about perfect. It really is what Audi should have put on the car from the factory. It has the same instant spool up, but holds flow A LOT better then the K03. Nothing super fast, but pretty much a perfect daily driver without much hassle. I think you will really like it.

- Eric

drumnjuny
04-28-2013, 06:12 PM
drove a golf R yesterday at the dealership... k04 and forged internals, shit is definitely fast and feels very zippy even stock

seal66
04-28-2013, 06:38 PM
awesome man. I really need to do this to my car now. Damn parts are sitting. Can't wait to see how you like the ko4

canadianA4B7
04-28-2013, 07:05 PM
From past builds of others on AZ, i came to decide it wud be the best for me. Id love to build a 400+hp beast but the K04 is just what i need. Just want a lil more get up and strength and reliability of oem. So the build is underway and it will be completely new car when i get it back. From stock to stage 2+ no steps in between. Still undecided on tuning and fmic but still sum time to straighten that out.

Schweini
04-28-2013, 07:49 PM
YES!!

I've been eagerly awaiting your build thread my Canadian brother! Can't wait to continue following this. You know, once your done you have to come pick me up for a spin [;)] Gas, beers, lunch is all on me lol

[drive]

SleeperAvant
04-29-2013, 12:26 PM
Awesome! Lovré does work on my car too. Great guy.

canadianA4B7
04-29-2013, 02:35 PM
Awesome! Lovré does work on my car too. Great guy.

Yes! Id spoken with him numerous times in the past month or so. He offered to do my build once he completed his AR. Once he had it done he told me to stop by and talk. After about 30min i told him hed have the car in the coming week. And thats where the car is now. Cudnt be happier and glad to hear from of his other customers.

Also just bought a set of s5 calipers from classifieds...... They wont be going on untill i sort out rotors pads and all that but its a build thread these things are supposed to happen.

jsandor91
05-01-2013, 06:47 AM
never heard of anyone using s5 calipers on a b7, are they a better option vs the 18z calipers from a t-reg or cayenne ?

looking forward to the build btw!

Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk 2

canadianA4B7
05-03-2013, 02:34 AM
They are just a larger stiffer or stronger caliper, instead of the 320mm they are a 345mm so simply bigger is better. Theres 2 members in the b6 who have done the swap and were happy with the improvement. Ive got mixed feelings on going to put on a complete BBK. So im just trying to go another route. If it can be done ill clearly post my findings, my issue is weather i need the S4 carriers or not..... Been searching lots and have found S5 caliper work great but no info really on install.

canadianA4B7
05-04-2013, 08:49 AM
a lil update some pics from the build

a look at the cylinders piston and rod free
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/enginehead_zps279c956d.png (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/enginehead_zps279c956d.png.html)

rod comparison, left tiny likely to be bent oem rod, on the right clearly stronger IE rod
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/connectingrod_zpsfa9cf087.png (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/connectingrod_zpsfa9cf087.png.html)

top end during injector install, lil bit of blue from the S3 injectors that will fuel the cylinders
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/untitled_zps8021509d.png (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/untitled_zps8021509d.png.html)

injector clips?? i think looks like they kinda busted so best thing to do? BUY NEW!!
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/injectorclips_zpsa764eb71.png (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/injectorclips_zpsa764eb71.png.html)

engine im assumine most ppl could have figured that out. not sure if it was pre tear down or post rod and injector install. in the back ground a cat, likely the one who broke the injector clips!!
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/engine_zpscc57cfbd.png (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/engine_zpscc57cfbd.png.html)

things are moving along quite well, it seems lovre is very into my build. awaiting SMFW from autoplicity.com, and have to send him my OEM downpipe. it seems that having a cat in the system will require some mod. not sure of the completed exhaust but seems like he will use the 3" CTS downpipe and move a cat and extend my 02 sensor. therefore moving and installing the cat further back in the exhaust. which i think will be beneficial as it may cool the engine bay a bit more then OEM cat as it seems to hold a lot of heat on the passenger side of the engine bay.

so when the SMFW gets delivered i will be sending it and the OEM downpipe to lovre and he is going to sort out the cat and dp/cat issue.

ericpaulyoung
05-04-2013, 09:35 AM
Looks awesome!
- Eric

canadianA4B7
05-05-2013, 06:16 PM
Thanx! I laughed so hard when i saw the side by side of the connecting rods. EPY it made me think of that tiny piece of metal sticking out of your block. And some ppl tried to tell me the connecting rods were over kill! Lol over kill i think a stage 2 tune cud possibly break those little rods.... They look like toothpicks! So note to anyone reading. Im a novice in audi builds but for the reason of saving a motor if u upgrade a turbo i (amung others) wud definitly suggest upgraded connecting rods.

canadianA4B7
05-08-2013, 12:46 PM
My SMFW will be in the mail tomorrow. Shud have it early next week. Ordered sum new NGK BKR7EIX plugs. And that shud be all for now. Builder has requested oem downpipe to help him sort out where my hfc will go in the exhaust system. So ill ship out everything when i have it all in hand.

ericpaulyoung
05-08-2013, 01:46 PM
Do you need a cat, i.e. do you have ?

canadianA4B7
05-09-2013, 08:23 PM
Epy i just spoke w unitronic today, and told them yes. I have the RAI hfc/dp, but clearly wrong flange. Im considering now just doing away w the whole cat an running 3" pipe from turbo to below the front of car, similar to rai pipe minus cat. But i have no damn clue what to do. Unitronic claims ill b fine at Etest time without, but havent heard anyone pass without a cat here in Ontario canada yet....... Someone please chime in an confirm they have passed emissions in canada cat,ess in 2013. Otherwise yes i do need a cat. And suggestions on how to place it in the system.

Im sending my oem dp to builder, perhaps ill get the car back from him w CTS test pipe 3" , oem dp 2.25" , the 2.5" custom exhaust that is currently on car. If unitronic deletes rear o2 ill have no issue running catless correct?

canadianA4B7
05-23-2013, 05:27 PM
Just recieved my CM steel single mass flywheel. Shiped it out to cdn20valve about 2 hours ago its 8:15pm canadian time.had to send out my oem dp for measurement of future exhaust, and new set of NGK plugs. Soon more pics but it was a rush to pick up bring back to canada and ship b4 puralator closed. Soo more to see over the weekend!

canadianA4B7
05-26-2013, 02:27 PM
Recieved this text at 4:48 canadian easter time "Your car is ready. :-)" from Cdn20valve. He has been wrenching for the last 3 days to get it all buttoned up! And he is out now taken it for its first test drive! Said hes goin to double check for leaks and txt me back to tell me how it feels! Plan to pick it up this week! Im beyond excited as the summer wearther seems to be here to stay! And my bday gift from myself to myself is done!

chris@fifteen52
05-26-2013, 02:36 PM
I thought the S5 calipers were the same as the B7A4 and S4 just different carriers for the larger 345mm rotors. I have a B7A4 and just added the S4 carriers and larger rotors and reused the stock calipers.

canadianA4B7
05-26-2013, 03:25 PM
U are correct chris. Kinda a worthless purchase i do agree. I thout they were an rs style caliper my wallet read incorrectly and i really kinda messed up w that 1. From what ive read they may have a bit better clamping but its so tiny an increase it wont b noticeable. So thoughts wud b just to do the OEM bbk and either sell or install the S5 calipers just for looks. But im gonna use jhm LW rotors and find carriers from wreckers or sumthing.

seal66
05-30-2013, 06:08 AM
how is the car running?

canadianA4B7
05-30-2013, 07:12 PM
Seal66 I havent picked it up yet! work has been interupting my car life. the builder took it for a drive says" it runs smooth extremly smooth and will be an awesome quick DD". Since i dont have to work this weekend im planning on bus train then bus to pick the car up. so ill be able to post some more personal reviews this weekend. the clutch needs to be worked in and just need to get used to things as they are all new to me. so more to come.

kloeb2
05-30-2013, 07:59 PM
Congrats! It's a great feeling taking it for the first test drive.

canadianA4B7
06-01-2013, 03:37 AM
the first test drive will be today! its early north of the boarder 6:32am. Im packing up some stuff for my days travel adventure. Which will include bus, train, Toronto subway, another bus, then Lovre will be picking me up in my beloved B7. It will be a long ass trip to get the car but well worth all this waiting and the crap long trip today. So todays the day the trip starts at 7:20 when the cab comes to get me. In like 6-7 hours i should be returning with the car. Ill report back then!!

ericpaulyoung
06-01-2013, 06:50 AM
A.W.E.S.O.M.E.

Can't wait to hear the first trip story!

drumnjuny
06-01-2013, 08:34 AM
congratulations! Take videos :P

canadianA4B7
06-01-2013, 04:15 PM
First trip story goes like this. Once apon a time there was a car it had a turbo, i bought that car and a slightly bigger turbo into it. So other mods were invested and then car went to a talented Mr. Lovre of Kon Tech. He installed all these parts turning normal 2007 turbo A4 into a 20psi turbo charged miniture monster.

Fist drive was kinda in the rain and kinda went lightly as most stuff is new and im not quite ready to tear back into the motor yet! Lol the lil K04 spools just like the K03 but clearly blasting past 12psi or whatever oem boost is and pulls and holds at 20psi. That drakes clutch and the single mass flywheel are like clutching clouds in heaven..... It grabs so smoothly and im say this as an intermediate to sub par semi pro with the standard 6 speed. Totally different audi experience. I need a downpipe! Big one 3" as we had to use the oem dp because the rai cannot be changed to fit the K04. Rai will be posted soon in classifieds. Ive got to get used to it though.! But its like night an day. Id like to get a dyno run with the new parts on, and to see if im any higher number due to the light FW and improvement from fluidampr.

Cold start it sounds like its going to be crazy, after it idles its quiet like stock, but w magnaflows, but on the throttle it sounds great. I dont hear any turbo? Prolly due to stock smic? I kno in process of getting fmic but funds r limited right now. And i need to get different heat shield, its toasty warm under that hood now and dont want to bake anything, unless its cookies. My temps r fine though the needle is right where it shud be.

Also need to meet up w someone locally and grab a camera or mount for camera. But its like most K04 builds, quick spool, pulls moderatly hard, and AWD 3 things i wanted now checked off bucketlist!

kloeb2
06-01-2013, 04:28 PM
AWESOME! My car sounds like its going crazy on cold starts too. What injectors do you have? It probably says somewhere in this thread but i'm too lazy to read right now.

canadianA4B7
06-01-2013, 07:22 PM
im running the S3's its not bad by any means just that higher REV warm up idle. (not sure of what its called) it just sounds really over bearing. but once it settles to idle about 750RPM or so it seems quite mild mannored. but stomp on it and wake up the neighbours! kinda i think it will be much better once i get a proper DP back onto the car. I loved the way the RAI 3" sounded even on the stock turbo this is similar but i know the 3" DP will give it much more rumble and deeper tone.

kleob2 what injectors are you running?

Siggiepop
06-02-2013, 08:28 AM
subscribed

ericpaulyoung
06-02-2013, 11:57 AM
what is it idling at? Should be around 1200 cold, then drop to your set level.

Eric

canadianA4B7
06-02-2013, 02:02 PM
At cold yes 1200 in or around, then settles around 800 it looks like. I poped sumthing off just a while ago. Perhaps on a intercooler, or my intake but the DV fluttereing it sounds like shit now. If i go to full whoot it peaks and hold for 1 sec then drops to about 5psi then trys to gain boost again. I just went around the block! While just under light driving how shud it boost? Like in the city if i go to accelerate i get about 5psi and it cuts itself back to 0 and thats bout all.

kloeb2
06-02-2013, 02:27 PM
kleob2 what injectors are you running?

I have s3 injectors.
I think you would know if you popped off an intercooler pipe. I've experienced it twice during the last few weeks. I was barely able to limp it home. Sounds like it could be your dv not holding pressure. Stock dv?

ericpaulyoung
06-02-2013, 02:36 PM
At cold yes 1200 in or around, then settles around 800 it looks like. I poped sumthing off just a while ago. Perhaps on a intercooler, or my intake but the DV fluttereing it sounds like shit now. If i go to full whoot it peaks and hold for 1 sec then drops to about 5psi then trys to gain boost again. I just went around the block! While just under light driving how shud it boost? Like in the city if i go to accelerate i get about 5psi and it cuts itself back to 0 and thats bout all.

Ya, driving around town at low power conditions, you should be seeing about 0-5 psi as you drive around. Only when you request a bunch of power will it jump up. That is how my car is also.

- Eric

canadianA4B7
06-02-2013, 05:26 PM
Im running the d revision DV. but it does seem like its not holding the PSI. I just took a boot out down the highway. It seems to get to 20, holds for a second then drops down to 18 then drops off further. The dv seemed to have let off fully once it dropped down to 18psi. So im assuming ive got a small leak in the dv hoses or the DV itself has reached its potential and mayb i exceeded that. Whats the revision D DV hold maximum for boost?

ericpaulyoung
06-02-2013, 06:31 PM
Ya, buy a synapse.

canadianA4B7
06-02-2013, 06:37 PM
Ya, buy a synapse.

Synapse? do they have one that fits with the Electronic DV that is required with the K04?

baldy
06-02-2013, 11:39 PM
At cold yes 1200 in or around, then settles around 800 it looks like. I poped sumthing off just a while ago. Perhaps on a intercooler, or my intake but the DV fluttereing it sounds like shit now. If i go to full whoot it peaks and hold for 1 sec then drops to about 5psi then trys to gain boost again. I just went around the block! While just under light driving how shud it boost? Like in the city if i go to accelerate i get about 5psi and it cuts itself back to 0 and thats bout all.

Can I describe to you how your tune acts....and then can you just confirm my descriptions / experience...

Condition 1:
So under low load, say when you're cruising on the highway, and you lightly (barley) press the gas it "overboosts" for about 1-3 seconds to 5 psi then settles on 0? And it does this every time right?

Condition 2:
If you press the gas pedal say up to 25%, when accelerating from a stop, the car is very smooth. But if you press say 30%, the boost surges/throttle boosts to 25 psi or so and then drops down to 5-10 psi and then starts climbing again, and makes for really jerky acceleration...especially when driving spiritedly to try to contol the car.

Condition 3:
If you press the gas pedal to, say from 85% or the floor, your boost goes to 22-25 psi, then drops to 15 (or less) then back up to 20, then down, then starts to climb back up (at this point you have to shift).

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s125/squidrider/crossfire/image1.png
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s125/squidrider/crossfire/image.png


If this sounds familiar, and you don't have a leak (I don't think you have a leak, I know I don't) let me know how your conversation with Unitronic goes... It will most likely be "we've flashed this file on X amount of cars, and you are the first to have this problem... It has to be a hardware issue...sorry, I don't know what else we can do for you..."

AND THEY ARE RIGHT!.... In my case it was a cranked wastegate, which I only discovered after getting the engine swapped a year later. DOUBLE CHECK YOUR WASTEGATE PRESSURE.

canadianA4B7
06-03-2013, 03:06 AM
Condition 1: yes
Condition 2: no im not over boosting at all the max boost ive seen is 20psi period. And only under pedal to floor. Ill check today to confirm.
Condition 3: if i mash pedal im going full boost 20psi then it settles down to 18psi, the drops to 5 then tries to build again. I changed my air inlet from an aluminum oiece to the oem vaffles rubber last nite, will c ic that change.

Running hot my car is not but the turbo side is warm yes if u open the hood its warm in the engine bay. Which wud b normal when boosting higher from what ive read.

Its still drivable perhaps my driving style perhaps sumthing else. More searching will solve the issue im sure.

Im gonna try and remove belly pan tomorrow and tighten the hose clamps on DV And remove and check dv aswell. Its fluttering im trying to find a vid to show what im hearing.

ericpaulyoung
06-03-2013, 06:32 AM
Synapse? do they have one that fits with the Electronic DV that is required with the K04?

Nope, you have to put a 200 or 300 ohm resistor in place of the electronic DV, and it is all mechanical. It will hold the pressure though :-) I tried a latest revision electronic DV, and it fluttered around 23 psi, tried a Forge BOV and it still fluttered around 26. The Synapse in pull mode doesn't flutter. Totally worth it.

- Eric

ericpaulyoung
06-03-2013, 06:34 AM
It shouldn't be jerky. You can fix this through adjustment of the pedal map and boost duty map.

- Eric

jsandor91
06-03-2013, 09:44 AM
http://www.iapdirect.com/synapse-synchronic-diverter-valve-kit-volkswagen-audi-porsche.html

you won't find it cheaper then that probably
mine just came in the other day.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/01/esetygyv.jpg

canadianA4B7
06-03-2013, 12:40 PM
Ok so still same as yesterday. It boost then drops a bit hold there and gradually is going back to around 5psi. Aswell in city if say rolling from a stop with 20-30% throttle it boost to 5 then while still on throttle boost drops and holds at 0. It ran much better with the oem air inlet tube, but i think a silicone 1 might provide i bit smoother flow.

Im gonna need some schooling on pedal map and boost duty map. Im unitronic tuned stage 2+. I am doing adjustment i assume through VAG COM?

Also noticed apon start up ive got an exhaust leak, bottom of dp seems like mayb a bolt isnt tight, i dont think this will be causing my issue but will tighten it up ASAP.

ericpaulyoung
06-03-2013, 12:59 PM
Ah damn, you would need Maestro to control those maps. If you want to try, you can contact Eurodyne and see if they would be willing to try a new map out and I can send you something.

The MED9 ECU controls based on torque, so the fluctuations you see in the boost level are actually normal and just the ECU trying to achieve a smooth torque delivery. The pedal map is the second line in the calculation. First the ECU reads your torque request by looking at the actual pedal position, then is calculates the car's actual running condition, and with that goes and sends signals to the actuators in the car to deliver a match solution. The pedal map is one of the things it looks at when trying to decide what you actually "mean" when you push the pedal down. In a naturally aspired car you get pretty linear power; hold the pedal at 10% and you get nice smooth 10% throttle position response. Now in a turbo car you put the pedal at 10%, and at first you feel like you are getting 1% because the turbo hasn't spooled up yet, then all the sudden you are accelerating like you were at 50% throttle position because the turbo is running up and peaking, then it starts to fall off again and you just scratch your head like "what the heck just happened". Well MED9 fixes this for you by "interpreting" what you want. When you push down the throttle to 10%, it actually opens up the throttle body like 50%, and as the turbo spools up, it exponentially decreases the throttle to something less then what you are actually asking for. And by this you get a flat response.

Now, if this map is not representative of the turbo you have, then the mismatch will feel like surging, or falling flat, or some combination of the two. For the K04 size turbo running higher than stock boost levels, you usually have to move the exponential drop off point to lower rpms, and decrease the levels a little, then flatten out the top 3 rows of power levels to not drop to 1-2% and instead hold a little higher around 5%. This will stop the wild fluctuations you are experiencing. Now each car is different, and you really need to do some trial and error to match the map to your car's setup, but it can be done.

Now larger turbos need the opposite, because that "act" differently. They like more open throttle down low because the take longer to spool.

- Eric

canadianA4B7
06-03-2013, 01:23 PM
Wow u r like a scientist. So as you r saying i was just driving in the city i set the throttle to about 15-25% throttle which seems to be good rolling take off, and just held the pedal. The turbo spools and the car seems to want to move (say 35-45% throttle) but then the boost drops and it seems like its just being driven at 15-25% throttle. So as you r explaining this is my issue and the car is not adjusting to where the pedal and what im supposed to be boosting. Wow frustration overwhelming frustration! So ill need a new ECU! Lol i had unitronic tune my ecu manually not via obd2 port. So shit! I cannot likely re tune the ECU with the modfication they had to do in the ECU. Wonderful. So few hundo for an ecu and 200 for synapse DV!

Gonna do sum logs and send them to unitronic as they may help with the issue but reading what EPY says ive got some shit to sort out.

Thanx glad to know someone knows something about tunes. Im surprised EPY you dont have a sub contract with these tuners. You shud be paid and be sure to recieve something from me if i use your assistance.

ericpaulyoung
06-03-2013, 01:39 PM
They can tune it for you, and unitronic and the other professional tuners are much more knowledgeable then me. So I hope I am not sounding like I think I am better than them. They just have to produce an off the shelf tune for many different cars that all have slightly different setups. There is no way they can get one tune to be perfect for everyone, so there has to be some compromise. You gotta realize that those shops are professionals that don't have as much time as I do to put stuff up on the forums, so don't take their lack of input on all the threads as a lack of knowledge. :)


As for what you are experiencing, I think you got it right. Basically the MED9 is trying to adjust torque based on fueling, air, and ignition. When you modify the car, the setup doesn't match the tune that came from the factory, so you hire unitronic or similar to put a better matching tune on your car. It will be better for sure, but they won't be able to get it dialed in unless they spent time on the dyno or street testing out fine adjustments. So don't feel bad about getting Unitronic, they are a solid shop and produce good stuff, they would just need more time to work out kinks like this one. If you log the partial throttle runs where it is surging, you will see the boost fluctuations matching to throttle plate angle fluctuations. This can be fixed to a good extent by adjusting the pedal map. I would just shoot them an email, and they can probably do something to help out.

canadianA4B7
06-03-2013, 02:02 PM
awwww great not really bummed out but kinda thought that since i had my chipping done from them via just the ECU its gonna be tricky to do adjustments to it since i assume they wont be able to do it again via OBD2 but they would have to remove and re tune the ECU itself. im gonna run logs, maybe when i got to practice tonite. and then i can post those up here and send to Unitronic. im gonna call them aswell but not in the mood today its monday just trying to fill my head with info so i know what i am talking about when i need to speak.

but i do understand yer explination. i contemplated going maestro for ever but decided to go with a uni due to, well cuz im not the best with the whole electronic stuff in the car. i could likely build a wiring harness if supplied connectors wire and drawing (electrical apprentice) but computer stuff im not so good with. ill do some calls and some logs, and go from there. seem like its my only option. but its gotta be fixed. its just not right and doesnt seem to be like their explination the stars indicate things the tune is NOT doing. not bitching just stating what i am experiencing via the tune and what they have stated it will do. Im sure its gonna be an easy fix so im gonna get on the phone


*Optimized Responsiveness and Drivability
*Optimized Smoothness and Driving Comfort
*Power Delivery Perfectly Optimized Throughout the Power Band
◦Improved Fuel Efficiency
◦Speed Governor Removed
◦RPM Limiter Increased to 7100
*Lower End Hesitation (Lag) Removed

ericpaulyoung
06-03-2013, 02:05 PM
Definitely keep us up to date on how it goes!

- Eric

canadianA4B7
06-03-2013, 02:13 PM
yes im gonna log tonite/tomorrow and send it all to them. and post up what ive got. he seemed interested in the fact that ive also had some complete boost shutoff at 5000RPM and not at redline. once i said that he just asked for logs and try to get it to do that boost shut off i experienced b4. i may have forgot to mention that one in my posts... but its happed 2 times once on my way home sat and once sunday when i went for a drive down the highway. usually in 3rd gear.

canadianA4B7
06-04-2013, 05:44 PM
so ive gone and done some driving with the laptop plugged in... ive got tones of numbers but im a computer retard and dont know how to turn the numbers in EXCEL into one of them fancy looking graphs!!!! damn wish i woulda finished college!!! them computer classes in last year prolly woulda helped me out right now!!! any way im gonna search "retards trying to make line graphs in excel" see if i can make all these number look like somthin. or ill grab some graph paper, a pencil, some crayons, and a ruler and ill graph it by hand.

kloeb2
06-04-2013, 06:32 PM
Just host them in Google docs or take a screenshot and post the pic here.

baldy
06-04-2013, 06:47 PM
I sent you back some of my amateur compared to YPE's graphs... check your email

edit: Here I'll just post it for ya

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s125/squidrider/Audizine%20stuff/loggraph.png

canadianA4B7
06-04-2013, 07:18 PM
well i forwarded them to a canadian AZ member "baldy" apparently i messed up the logs, didnt click the TURBO button on VAG COM! so total fail i got logs but not to full throttle or fuel cut out. so tomorrow ill have to do it again. i was just forwarded a link to show me exactly what to select in Vag com for the logs. now i just have to get back on the road. so if those are my numbers my boost seemed to have been getting up there but not really holding? now i didnt have many issues today, no cut off boost at 4000-5000rpm, it seemed to have been holding boost, but the DV sounds soo weak it flutters like crazy even sometimes when city driving at 5 psi it flutters while still accelerating.

Also took the car to my old mans to try and tighten up an exhaust clamp. pulled it up into his garage. found the leaks and i need some exhaust work a clamp leaks, and it looks like ive got some exhaust leaking around my turbo perhaps the gasket between turbo and block hasnt sealed? or maybe the OEM DP is a POS and leaks between it and the test pipe.

and last but not least while parked in the garage the garage side door was opened and closed, a shelf of god damn laminate flooring fell onto my front drivers fender. so theres 2 un pullable dents and scratch marks. kinda ticked but what for? it coulda fallen on the old man while he was under the car checking it out for me. so alls good the fender will need some work. but it will also be a chance to clean up a few minor imperfections in the paint i hope. tomorrow i plan to get 2 quotes and figure out a plan to get it touched up. so looks like ill be driving the allroad once i get the logs done.

so logs tomorrow. and post after work. hope i can get logging correct this time.

ericpaulyoung
06-04-2013, 08:09 PM
I sent you back some of my amateur compared to YPE's graphs... check your email

edit: Here I'll just post it for ya

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s125/squidrider/Audizine%20stuff/loggraph.png

You got talent kid. I'm tellin' ya, you gonna make it here in Chicago :)

canadianA4B7
06-04-2013, 08:20 PM
and christ what i sent him was a disaster!!! i had like 20 min of driving and in and out of boost and nightmare. so hes got talent!! and i appreciate it!! ill do some more logs tomorrow as i need to get it to redline for proper graphs.

baldy
06-07-2013, 11:18 AM
Here's the graph from logs you sent me last night...

BTW, you didn't pick the right EGT field...it showed up blank..

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s125/squidrider/Audizine%20stuff/log2.png

canadianA4B7
06-07-2013, 02:24 PM
hummm so that doesnt seem to be too bad. i dont actually seem to be hitting full boost though. and my issues are offen in city driving. i tightened up some stuff under the hood. which seemed to be a bit better, but still my DV sounds horrid. its like flutter dump city every shit all the time. is that normal? and whats the thought on that LOG? it seems to be normal.
my issues are in the low end. i should do some city driving logs im assuming? and what EGT should i use? i used all of these as was suggested. im not sure why no EGT. since im off work now i can likely get more logs done. and will an exhaust leak on the exit side of turbo be harmful? its like the gasket isnt making enough contact between the flange and turbo. and the bolts are tight i cant turn them anymore. hot or cold they are tight.

and shouldnt boost b coming on sooner in the power band? clearly its peaking at around 3600RPM i feel its not hitting it poential soon enough. anyway ive got the Synapse on order clearly back ordered when u need shit u can never get it in reasonable time. once i get it obviously install will happen. once i sell the RAI HFC/DP ill repair exhaust. shitty for me got laid off today. so ive gotta budget everything all over again!!! my problem but everything works out. not sweating it, may have to hit the road for a few months.

001-1 RPM
003-2 MAF
003-4 Timing
031-1 Lambda (AFR)


054-3 Accel Pedal Position
054-4 Throttle Plate Angle
112-3 EGT
114-3 Engine Load (Actual)


114-4 N75 Duty (wastegate)
115-3 Boost Specified
115-4 Boost Actual
230-2 Rail Pressure Actual (HPFP)

cdn20valve
06-08-2013, 07:56 AM
It's looks like the tune is very conservative. I noticed that on the first test drive, it felt very smooth. Not the typical kick in the pants a k04 gives you.

Once you get your dv and new dp gasket. Come by my shop, I'll install them no charge, and we will spend some time looking over things. CTS should supply a stronger DV for the B7 in their kit. IMO.

ericpaulyoung
06-08-2013, 08:11 AM
Once you get your dv and new dp gasket. Come by my shop, I'll install them no charge, and we will spend some time looking over things.

Good beans! Nice to have a shop owner like this around.

Eric

ericpaulyoung
06-08-2013, 08:15 AM
edit: Here I'll just post it for ya
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s125/squidrider/Audizine%20stuff/loggraph.png

Baldy got is right. What you are looking at is the correct spool for a K03/K04, as you are peaking (at least in this log) at around 3k or a little after. The K03 can spike to peak at 3k, but the K04 is a larger and spikes around 3200. No biggie. Now what you are missing is the boost after this. The K04 can hold 20 psi to 6k, but your tune and the boost actual are falling off way early. So indeed your shop is right in saying this is a conservative tune. I will send you a file today to test out.

- Eric

drumnjuny
06-08-2013, 08:40 AM
my question is why is his boost actual not holding with requested? the K04 should be able to make the ~17psi requested... at 5k rpms

choochb5
06-08-2013, 08:54 AM
my question is why is his boost actual not holding with requested? the K04 should be able to make the ~17psi requested... at 5k rpms

N75 duty cycle's just been capped low. Better safe than sorry. Start low and work your way up.

ericpaulyoung
06-08-2013, 08:56 AM
Notice the wastegate duty is dropping the whole time



As for a new file, I left my Maestro cable at work, which is 50 minutes away. But the good thing is I am going to my sister's bbq today, and she lives near by, so I will just grab it then. But I can't get a new file done right away. Let me grab you something that you can work with today though.

- eric

ericpaulyoung
06-08-2013, 08:58 AM
Download this max VE and boost duty bin files. Open Maestro and import them into your tune. Try that and see what you think. These are from my version 4 of my 35th revision of the K04 file, and if I remember correctly, this was a 23 psi file. You have rods, so you will be fine, but if your DV is crapping out, you will definitely get FLUTTTTTTTERRRRR :/ Don't worry the Synapse in pull mode can handle that pressure like it was childs play.

Max VE
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0dO8JDytq50RVFZWnpRS2R5Qm8/edit?usp=sharing

Boost Duty
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0dO8JDytq50empiMDNWNzJlUU0/edit?usp=sharing

canadianA4B7
06-08-2013, 10:58 AM
Ok so return the unitronic tune i assume? Get my money back from them and order maestro?

canadianA4B7
06-08-2013, 11:20 AM
It's looks like the tune is very conservative. I noticed that on the first test drive, it felt very smooth. Not the typical kick in the pants a k04 gives you.

Once you get your dv and new dp gasket. Come by my shop, I'll install them no charge, and we will spend some time looking over things. CTS should supply a stronger DV for the B7 in their kit. IMO.

Thanx im working on getting up there when the stuff comes in. Im also gonna try and get maestro as was suggested when i was picking up the car. As for the dp, im looking into a 2.5" or 3" complete dp. So when i SELL the RAI hfc/dp ill get the new 1 made up and installed. As for the tune its very conservative isnt your bro boosting higher on a K04 on his VW? Like 24psi....?

I understand the conservative tune as they clearly want too keep from blowing things up. It is smooth but as noted i may have a bad DV NOW, which will be changed out with hopes it helps. That or go maestro and ill have to buy a different ECU because they did my tune in house?? Am i correct on that 1 or if i return the tune will i be able to do a maestro tune with the physical revision made into my current ECU?

ericpaulyoung
06-08-2013, 11:48 AM
Ok so return the unitronic tune i assume? Get my money back from them and order maestro?

Shit, I keep forgetting you have an off the shelf tune.

ericpaulyoung
06-08-2013, 11:50 AM
You don't need to buy a new ECU, Maestro will just overwrite the old EPROM.

canadianA4B7
06-08-2013, 01:07 PM
Ok cool ill get in touch with unitronic monday. Hope they will return my money as my bill is dated may 10 2013.... Dunno what their return policy is have to read up on that. So phone calls monday thats for sure. Now that im unemployed ill have plenty of time to do that! Thanx

ericpaulyoung
06-08-2013, 04:04 PM
Uni will have locked your ECU, so you can't do the first read of your car. Just email Chris Tapp and let him know your info and he will put together a base tune that will overwrite the other files.
Eric

canadianA4B7
06-09-2013, 08:00 AM
Uni will have locked your ECU, so you can't do the first read of your car. Just email Chris Tapp and let him know your info and he will put together a base tune that will overwrite the other files.
Eric

Thats cool! Ill send some emails out ill reach chris via eurodyne?

Bit of a piss off yesterday. NOTE TO ANYONE READING THIS WHO BUYS AN 034 CATCH CAN. the plug that covers the hole in the intake manifold has a small allan key plug in it. Apon purchase i asked if loctite was needed to hold the plug into the plug. The answer was "NO JUST TIGHTEN IT THE BEST YOU CAN" well that failed and the lil allan key plug rattled out of the plug and killed the car yesterday. So after retracing recent installation (the catch can) i found the allan key missing. So had to do a lil patch ot it back running but it looks like shit. Left the car ill take a pick or 2 later.

canadianA4B7
06-10-2013, 07:36 AM
just spoke to Unitronic, finally some positive feedback. they need a log of blocks 1,3 and 20 Knock sensor or something. he says if everything runs good with those setting they can adjust timing, my boost. i guess as related to my fuel pressure he says they should be able to give me a bit better HP\TQ with improved timing and some other minor adjustments. i asked about an adjustment for boost more like the GTI file but say since the A4 is heavier it will be to much load on the engine. arent guys running BT on ths same engine????? ummmm huge boost would be huge load. larger amounts of load was my reasoning for going with the IE rods. I assume they want to keep it conservative as to not blow up and engine due to heavier load on engine.... whatever though hopes they can make some improvements and clean up the files for me. he asked about both of the PCV valves? im running 034 catch can where is this 2nd PCV? Front and Rear? didnt know there was 2 of them to change. looks like something i overlooked or never knew i could change!!

canadianA4B7
06-10-2013, 01:50 PM
dropped these off today to be powdercoated
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/T2eC16JzcE9s4g0vSTBQwRQFSko60_1_zpsec11891d.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/T2eC16JzcE9s4g0vSTBQwRQFSko60_1_zpsec11891d.jpg.ht ml)

will look like this when done

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/DSC00637_zpse887a75d.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/DSC00637_zpse887a75d.jpg.html)
I mean the color they are not magically turning my rims into Rotiform NUEs they should should look like polished aluminum or Xtreme chrome is the name of the color powder i selected.

canadianA4B7
06-12-2013, 10:52 AM
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/image_zps85698dc0.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/image_zps85698dc0.jpg.html)

Pulled another log last nite, looks like ive got a minor issue w/cylinder #1. Gonna pull that plug out check see if its burnt up, likely replace it and look for another coil pack. Now if only i could remeber the AZ member i bought them from to see if hes got a few more laying around. Or anyone else for that matter looking for 1 red coil!

seal66
06-12-2013, 11:20 AM
Actually that is no bad yet. Once it gets over -6 is when you get worried. I would just swap the coil pack with another one in your car and see if it reproduces.

canadianA4B7
06-12-2013, 05:04 PM
i switched it to cylinder 2 and am in the process of getting a replacement for the Iffy one. not too concerned as ive read that that isnt too too bad but as the life of the bad one goes its clearly gonna get worse. not what i want on this fresh setup. if i get similar issues with new one im assuming its a tune issue or electrical issue somewhere. does anyone use dielectric grease on any of the connectors? the coils seem to have a bit inside them was thinking of just putting a bit more on them or the connectors ontop of the motor and hope it makes better contact. anyone? or is that the worst idea ever?

Charles.waite
06-13-2013, 09:29 AM
Just curious as I'm chasing down an issue with my b7. What were the symptoms of your failed flywheel (those videos are scary by the way, what a piece of shit the OEM flywheel is!!)? I've got a rhythmic judder under wot that you can feel through the pedal as well as a fast clunk-ish noise at idle that scales up in frequency with revs. I'm thinking its the flywheel rattling or something as I've listened to the oil pan with a stethoscope and not heard any knocking on the block which is what I initially thought it was.

Anyway just curious how the failed flywheel evidenced itself in driving. Thanks man, nice build, about where I'm looking to go, except I'll probably go maestro rather than Uni...

Steve@Unitronic
06-13-2013, 01:11 PM
just spoke to Unitronic, finally some positive feedback. they need a log of blocks 1,3 and 20 Knock sensor or something. he says if everything runs good with those setting they can adjust timing, my boost. i guess as related to my fuel pressure he says they should be able to give me a bit better HP\TQ with improved timing and some other minor adjustments.

Hey CanadianA4B7,

Can't believe I missed this thread until now - I assume you called in and spoke with John about your specific file issues and are in touch with him?

canadianA4B7
06-13-2013, 06:53 PM
Hey CanadianA4B7,

Can't believe I missed this thread until now - I assume you called in and spoke with John about your specific file issues and are in touch with him?

David was who i was dealing with. I sent him my recent logs of what he had asked for. He told me that hes working on tweaking a file for me. Said he could get me some more power because of timing. I was hoping to get a bit smoother boost as seen on your website with the GTI file used. I was sent some info in regards to boost duty and max VE was wondering if i shoud have forwarded them to david also? they were sent to me as i had posted here some strange boost issues and memebers here had some ideas for correction if i were using maestro. The files are in the previous page if you would like to see what others are doing to correct issues with files for the K04. I also need to find a shop to go to, to get the new file loaded as the last shop i delt with fails completely at customer service but succeed well at taking money and not returning calls.

Thanx unitronic, you guys have been doing good. Im interested in what my new file will be like. I built my motor to handle whatever cud be thrown at it. Hence why i did rods! Also u need a retailer in southern ontario. Someone like myself who can deal with ppl weather its face to face or returning a call.

cdn_b7a4
06-14-2013, 05:14 AM
You should hit up Foreign Automotive in Kitchener to get the new file loaded.

Steve@Unitronic
06-14-2013, 07:41 AM
Thanx unitronic, you guys have been doing good. Im interested in what my new file will be like. I built my motor to handle whatever cud be thrown at it. Hence why i did rods! Also u need a retailer in southern ontario. Someone like myself who can deal with ppl weather its face to face or returning a call.

We appreciate the feedback - We have a few dealers in the Ontario area: Dealer Locator (http://www.unitronic-chipped.com/dealers).

I just spoke with David about your file in particular, he will be sending you an email shortly - Enjoy [:d]

-Justin

canadianA4B7
06-14-2013, 02:33 PM
We appreciate the feedback - We have a few dealers in the Ontario area: Dealer Locator (http://www.unitronic-chipped.com/dealers).

I just spoke with David about your file in particular, he will be sending you an email shortly - Enjoy [:d]

-Justin

Thanx just recieved said email. I appreciate hopefully being a A4 tuned with unitronic to hit 300AWHP! On the k04! Ill be ure o leave feedback here as to what the new file is like!

And i will likely be calling and arranging an appointment with Foreign automotive this coming week. Heard from numerous ppl to deal with them instead of a certain unitronic retailer in toronto.

canadianA4B7
06-18-2013, 07:07 PM
So this just in from unitronic. Theres a new file revision that has been submitted to their dealers "newest file" that apparently I may and others aswell have been awaiting. I just recieved an email stating
"no, we replace our current stage2+ for this new revision.
All other customer will also be able to benefit from that update if they need it.


David"

So just to let the 2+ guys out there that we may have a better tune for the K04 thanx to engineering at unitronic and those who submit logs for them to work out kinks. Ive got plans to be updated sat. I have my doubts ill see 300AWHP but i can always dream or ditch the uni tune and got maestro with help from EPY,chris tapp, and SleeperAvant, i think i could hit that 300AWHP. Or drop some more cash go BT......... will see a job option has just come up. Ill be travelling for awhile but high HP could be the final outcome if everything works out!

jsandor91
06-19-2013, 08:13 AM
So this just in from unitronic. Theres a new file revision that has been submitted to their dealers "newest file" that apparently I may and others aswell have been awaiting. I just recieved an email stating
"no, we replace our current stage2+ for this new revision.
All other customer will also be able to benefit from that update if they need it.


David"

So just to let the 2+ guys out there that we may have a better tune for the K04 thanx to engineering at unitronic and those who submit logs for them to work out kinks. Ive got plans to be updated sat. I have my doubts ill see 300AWHP but i can always dream or ditch the uni tune and got maestro with help from EPY,chris tapp, and SleeperAvant, i think i could hit that 300AWHP. Or drop some more cash go BT......... will see a job option has just come up. Ill be travelling for awhile but high HP could be the final outcome if everything works out!


nice best of luck!
dyno coming soon !? [drive]

canadianA4B7
06-20-2013, 04:30 AM
Ive gotta find a awd dyno shop. Im gonna contact V8A6 from the C5 section see where he went and try too arrange something. And will see exactly where the new file sits. Ill post up all that info when it goes onto the dyno thats for sure.

ericpaulyoung
06-20-2013, 06:16 AM
This is great customer service by Unitronic. Complete win. Most of the time a shop will not change an off the shelf tune if you report a problem.

- Eric

canadianA4B7
06-20-2013, 04:46 PM
Yes i had good response times and spoke via phone and email to David. He saw those logs and kinda said WTF? So i explained my wishes and then boom week er so later new file released. So they told me its available for anyone going the route i did with my build. Will see this sat whats in store.

Synapse DV will be delivered hopefully tomorrow! Humm new DV new tune all perhaps this weekend!

ericpaulyoung
06-20-2013, 04:58 PM
Pull mode, both lines hooked up, no preload on the screw. That's what I am running and it has been perfect.

canadianA4B7
06-20-2013, 07:07 PM
The lines are hooked to vaccuum correct? To they go to a T or Y connector or do they go to 2 different vac lines? Or have i got this all wrong?

canadianA4B7
06-22-2013, 12:48 PM
Just got the latest update 2+ file for the car! Seems as the did some adjusting. Boost seems to not flutter around when accelerating, pulls are a bit stronger, and boost seems to start building at around 2600-2800 and maxing around 3200rpm er so. Quite nice i must say. Next the DV which ill pick up this week. Step 2 is to get the CTS FMIC (which i just ordered) installed, and step 3 find a shop to build a custom 3" downpipe!

ericpaulyoung
06-22-2013, 01:34 PM
The lines are hooked to vaccuum correct? To they go to a T or Y connector or do they go to 2 different vac lines? Or have i got this all wrong?

It comes with a little Y that you hook up to your manifold.


http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w381/ericpaulyoung/47FD911A-007D-469B-8977-4F1869E93368-632-00000068EB7B30F6_zps76f62dc1.jpg

ericpaulyoung
06-22-2013, 01:37 PM
Like this

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w381/ericpaulyoung/DEE8A155-5B45-4A4F-A3CC-5F5314D9861D-3271-00000323146E7A2E_zps5dd71cc6.jpg



And I drilled and tapped a new connection to the intake manifold.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w381/ericpaulyoung/E56BD540-5FB4-46C3-8A27-6E5C74B9DB08-3271-000003393D69AF9D_zpsb1d2cad7.jpg

ericpaulyoung
06-22-2013, 02:11 PM
Ah, and test the leak tightness of the quick fittings. You want a clean end on the tubing ( no burrs and a square cut) and you push in all the way, then pull out not too hard but hard enough to seat it and seal. Try blowing and sucking on it. It should seal perfectly. Any leakage and you should try pulling out a little harder or starting over.

Eric

canadianA4B7
06-23-2013, 08:32 AM
ok now another question, ive got the S3 turbo reloacation kit, and the DV is on the bottom can i switch the adapter hoses and relocate the new DV to the top of the engine bay? it looks like theres a bit more room and would require less of the vaccuum line if the DV was located higher in the engine bay? yours in pic 1 seems to be on the bottom of the system near the botttor of engine? but you have relocated the drilled and tapped into the intake manifold using less vaccuum line. ill figure something out ill likely just leave it on the bottom of the engine bay.

canadianA4B7
08-03-2013, 08:37 AM
So just installedsynapse DV. Now the car boosts like a wild banshee! Peaks around 25-26psi then falls to 20 then its likely shift time! Is this normal or should the software not stop from over boosting? Or should i go manual boost controller or something else? EPY im looking at you likely for a response as you set me on the synapse DV mission! But holy crap what a change in boost and power! I didnt think that was gonna happen!

Operator
08-03-2013, 08:43 AM
26psi is pretty high for a K04.

canadianA4B7
08-03-2013, 09:52 AM
26psi is pretty high for a K04.

lol I know!!!! It was first run maybe im exaggerating but it was getting damn close to that ill get some logs when I am done with the FMIC install but that's havine issues all its own. anyone know if I can cut whats in the orange rectangle? make the metal elbow fit better? it seems like everything is much higher then images ive seen on rongeurs fmic install.

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/7581191450_7da20e601a_z_zps2a9e68a0.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/7581191450_7da20e601a_z_zps2a9e68a0.jpg.html)

rongeurs install page 14th image down from thread number 1 is what im looking at. http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/494629-Product-Review-CTS-Turbo-Front-Mount-Intercooler-Kit-for-B7

drumnjuny
08-03-2013, 11:14 AM
make sure your boost gauge is calibrated to your altitude

canadianA4B7
08-03-2013, 11:43 AM
make sure your boost gauge is calibrated to your altitude

ok via vag come I assume? im using the Podi gauge hooked up to intake manifold. it was only getting to 21PSI with the latest revision OEM DV. and im not sure on how to adjust that but will look into it shortly. im still monkeying around trying to get the FMIC pipework to fit into place correct the intake side was no problem the turbo side well its not working so good. and ive tried ever thing I can think of. im gonna have to cut out the orange TRIANGLE in the pic I posted above. hope its nothing major!! doesn't seem to be too much of an issue. ill just consider it a weight drop!!

canadianA4B7
08-04-2013, 06:54 PM
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000069_zps295ddb38.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000069_zps295ddb38.jpg.html)
the new rims, still awaiting there completion but a quick pic of what they will be looking like once they are finished.

the install of this weekend

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000080_zps7e5b4098.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000080_zps7e5b4098.jpg.html)CTS FMIC

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000082_zpsc854676f.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000082_zpsc854676f.jpg.html) Synapse DV
amazingly enough after this was installed the K04 turbo now peaks boost at 25PSI er so, and then settles down to 20PSI ish. without any tune chance or anything else just plugged it into the car and Resistor installed into the OEM electrical connection. I myself am quite pleased as the boost spools much quicker then b4 and seems to hold much better then the OEM. there seems to be no boost then drop then boost again happeneing. it just spools holds and releases more responsive to the pedal then b4. ive informed CTS, UNIRONIC and will post up data logs once I get them.

also threw in the RS4 rear sway bar late this evening.

aluthman
08-04-2013, 07:42 PM
Did you use a DV relocation kit to install the Synapse DV? I'm probably gonna buy one too, but I'd like to know what's involved in the install.

canadianA4B7
08-05-2013, 09:04 AM
The s3 k04 has the dv relocated because there is no place on the turbo itself for the dv to go into. So yes ive got a dv relocate kit on mine. But ive removed the oem adapter and just used the 2 hoses that the kit supplies. Its set up in pull mode. Ive got to change oil today when im under the car ill snap a few more pics hope they help.

aluthman
08-05-2013, 01:17 PM
I'm trying to figure out the easiest way to use the synapse with my K0R. Everything I've read leads me to believe the Rev. D DV won't hold the boost I'll be making. I'd be pretty happy to peak at 25 psi and taper to 20.

ericpaulyoung
08-05-2013, 04:14 PM
Look at this beasty. Maybe the next logical step after the K0R?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Gearbox-Audi-RS6-C7-RS7-RS-6-4-0-TFSI-V8-412kW-560HP-GREAT-FOR-SWAP-/171076663337?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d4f6b829&vxp=mtr

canadianA4B7
08-05-2013, 07:54 PM
Maybe my next logical swap....... I have an allroad with a 2.7t i could swap into the A4 and place this nicely into the ar greating 2 multi turbo audi beasts! Good find now o contact the booky for another untraceable loan!

seal66
08-05-2013, 07:57 PM
Hey so where did you end up buying the Dv from man?

kloeb2
08-05-2013, 08:02 PM
I got my synapse from Import Auto Performance. I think it was around 200 shipped.

canadianA4B7
08-06-2013, 03:02 AM
I got my synapse from Import Auto Performance. I think it was around 200 shipped.

http://www.iapdirect.com/synapse-synchronic-diverter-valve-kit-volkswagen-audi-porsche.html

This link is from post #47. If it doesnt work refer to post #47! Same place as noted in quote above i believe. They may not have them in stock so i would call or something to cofirm if you require it ASAP. Mine wasnt here for some time after i placed the order. But definitly a must have!

canadianA4B7
09-02-2013, 07:08 PM
so the build just took a crazy turn!! today this was removed
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_0251_zpse85d011f.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_0251_zpse85d011f.jpg.html)
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000241_zpsf29967bd.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000241_zpsf29967bd.jpg.html)

and soon this will get delivered and installed
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/CEFDE8BA-FFAD-4146-8942-85B284E2185C-5786-0000043EEAA0086E_zps1a7c0773.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/CEFDE8BA-FFAD-4146-8942-85B284E2185C-5786-0000043EEAA0086E_zps1a7c0773.jpg.html)
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/CEFDE8BA-FFAD-4146-8942-85B284E2185C-5786-0000043EEAA0086E_zps1a7c0773.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/CEFDE8BA-FFAD-4146-8942-85B284E2185C-5786-0000043EEAA0086E_zps1a7c0773.jpg.html)
yes ive copied these from they sellers thread, and yes I am being serious. there will be more to come!!! GTX 2863!!!!

ericpaulyoung
09-02-2013, 07:21 PM
You will love the GTX2863. Think K04 spool, with more kick and able to hold more boost. You will love it :)

Eric

mec
09-02-2013, 07:44 PM
Looking good!

canadianA4B7
09-02-2013, 08:35 PM
Thanx! Its gonna be some serious power/fun! The GTX2863 plus the balance shaft delete, a synapse waste gate and DV is gonna be a mighty rare setup in my neck of the woods.

billyhoyle
09-06-2013, 10:41 AM
Nice looking build, sir!

I need to stop reading these threads, as I'm starting to think a new turbo would be a great investment...

drumnjuny
09-06-2013, 11:15 AM
let me know if you decide to go bigger and want the .86 A/R hot side for your GTX! only on my car for like 1200 miles and I would sell it to you for like 25% retail + some flat rate shipping

canadianA4B7
09-07-2013, 10:35 AM
let me know if you decide to go bigger and want the .86 A/R hot side for your GTX! only on my car for like 1200 miles and I would sell it to you for like 25% retail + some flat rate shipping
Ohhhh wow! Hummmm i dunno! But that is tempting! You hit 415 with it didnt you!.... Ill keep it in mind but i need to just get the gtx paid for and shipped. Paypal is pulling some stunts right now which are pussing me off. So im at their mercy. Thanx for the offer.
I went ahead and bought a synapse external WG so ive also got to get some welding and custom work done to this turbo now. Ill see after ive done some runs what i want to do!

ericpaulyoung
09-07-2013, 10:51 AM
One thing that just came to my mind is that the GTX is internally wastegatted, so if you setup the external, you will want to weld the internal shut. I don't think you can reverse that once done, as the welding will arc the seat.

mec
09-07-2013, 10:53 AM
let me know if you decide to go bigger and want the .86 A/R hot side for your GTX! only on my car for like 1200 miles and I would sell it to you for like 25% retail + some flat rate shipping

Does the exhaust housing for the 2867 fit the 2863?

drumnjuny
09-07-2013, 10:57 AM
no idea!!! haha just want to get rid of it. maybe shane will finally take it off my hands when he comes to denver.

mec
09-07-2013, 03:39 PM
no idea!!! haha just want to get rid of it. maybe shane will finally take it off my hands when he comes to denver.

Why don't you just post it on eBay? They sell new for $250, maybe list it for $150.

mec
09-07-2013, 03:40 PM
no idea!!! haha just want to get rid of it. maybe shane will finally take it off my hands when he comes to denver.

But also I think it would be too big for the turbine wheel on the 2863, I forget how Garrett measures but I believe the 63 part of gtx2863 is the exducer on the turbine wheel, which is much smaller than our 67mm wheel.

drumnjuny
09-07-2013, 04:25 PM
yeah haha i probably should

canadianA4B7
09-08-2013, 07:24 PM
One thing that just came to my mind is that the GTX is internally wastegatted, so if you setup the external, you will want to weld the internal shut. I don't think you can reverse that once done, as the welding will arc the seat.

My neighbour has said i should be able to make up a small plate to use the existing linkage, and either drill a tiny hole into it or use the threads on the end to hold the internal gate closed. Ive seen it on a few mustang big turbo forums, as well as a local guy with a celica gt running a massive garret under his hood. It may look kinda weird but only if you really get in there with a mirror. On the celica it cannot be seen at all. So thats likely the way im going to go, seems easy enough from what ive read.

And thanx drmnjury trying to sell me stuff i wont be able to use! Lol kidding, i think ive done enough engine work this year on the A4, im leaning towards a build on the allroad i think now! The A4 will b plenty powerful with the GTX. Now what to do to the ar! Hopefully a single turbo, or maybe 2 more GTX2863s under that hood, or maybe a single turbo GTX of EPYs suggestion!

canadianA4B7
09-09-2013, 06:20 PM
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000250_zpsb586cf9e.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000250_zpsb586cf9e.jpg.html)
this came in the mail today!!!! and soon the GTX should be getting into the mail aswell. hopes that my K04 buyer will return some of my texts cuz I really need the thing gone, my lil shop in the basement doenst have enough room for much else and the damn boxes are starting to pile up again!! more posts to come!

canadianA4B7
09-23-2013, 07:33 PM
So all the updated goodies should be arriving this week, turbo, friday, studs and nuts from atp thursday, and my balance shaft delete stuff is waiting to be picked up allready just need to go and pick it up. So hope this coming weekend to get most of it into the car and be back on the road 7 days from now. Heres hoping

shiro1745
09-24-2013, 06:23 AM
Doesn't if feel like Christman?
Good luck!

canadianA4B7
09-24-2013, 01:27 PM
my oh my does it ever feel like Christmas!!! theres a few things ill need to get taken care of so I can install the GTX. Boost controller.... to use the N75 with the synapse EWG. spoke with them on the phone they said its doable but MBC would be better (drakelore confirmed to use a MBC just have to make or buy one) get the EWG screamer/dump pipe welded into the test pipe and make sure its very long and has the right bend to it so its not going to be restrictive. and Tuning!! im awaiting my K04 buyer to either call me back and buy my ECU including trade for his so I can go maestro (or bend over and take it wasting the money buying unitronic being the worst decision ive ever made. should have listened in the first place) otherwise its going to all come together nice an quick the end of this week and next week coming. as long as my ATP order, my EPY order, and K&N order all get delievered this week. if not im at the mercy of FEDEX, USPS or whoever else has got my parts!!

mec
09-24-2013, 03:22 PM
If you do get another ECU, make sure it works before you ship off the original one!

aluthman
09-24-2013, 03:27 PM
Seems like more trouble than it's worth to me honestly. Doesn't the dealer have to do something to the ECU to get it to work with a different car? And do they have to be the same ECU revision? I'd just eat the cost of the Uni tune and get Maestro. That's what I did with my APR tune.

canadianA4B7
09-24-2013, 06:36 PM
so the swap goes like this. the ecu has an encoded PIN code that the dealers are only capable of acquiring via some special audi secret services BS. if both ecus are on hand and are from similar coded cars IE B7 with similar engine codes they can be swapped. so the new buyer of my K04 is running his in his car as we speak. mine works fine as it is aswell. my idea is to get the new buyer to meet me at the acclaimed dealer, bull my ecu out in the parking lot and him bring his ecu however I don't care. we both walk into the dealer. hand both over and ask for the swap. being that ill be running mine in my car on stage 2+ tune on the GTX I will have to bring maestro with me with a currently loaded file to run my car from TO back to home bout 200KMs. so its gonna be kinda tricky and it will have to be done right or im f****d and stranded in TO. from what the shop in Toronto who has set this all up tells me its very easily done as long as all the ducks are lined up in a row.

aluthman
09-24-2013, 07:05 PM
Note of caution for the Maestro flash: bring a battery charger with you because the ECU is super voltage sensitive. I bought the same one EPY did (info in his and my build thread).

canadianA4B7
09-24-2013, 07:20 PM
ive got a trickle charger from motormaster, will charge just about anything 6v-24v trickle and quick charge. aswell ive got a 12v jumper that I recently discovered that when hooked up to the allroad recently I was able to start it up move it around for like 3 seconds and then parked and removed it. I dunnot weather that will be able to provide power long enough but im going to bring both when the whole deal goes down. so all ill need to do is bring my 100' extension cord or park close enough to do the file change at the dealership or down the street somewhere!!

thanx for the heads up!! I think I had read the info long ago and was prepared for that already. my old man might be pissed if he has a battery die!!! LOL but a im ready for the totally furious ed the fireman (aka my pops) phone call when her realizes ive taken it without returning it!!!! now that will be something I need to get a recording of as the build wont be as EPIC as his phone message regarding his battery charger!!

canadianA4B7
09-27-2013, 09:17 AM
All parts are delivered and waiting for me to pick them up! Today will be like christmas for me. And i hope to start install tomorrow weather permitting.

ericpaulyoung
09-27-2013, 09:53 AM
Go get some!! :)

canadianA4B7
09-27-2013, 10:04 AM
I have to wait till 3pm to go over the bridge, my studs and nuts will not be ready for pick up untill they are processed at the facility i use. So im checking and waiting and check and once they are processed and i can request pickup im racing over there hitting up topps for some food, gas station cuz its cheap ass hell (not for an audi its the racefire) pic up parts and cruise back to gods country AKA Canada!

Racefire is a 2005 sunfire but its so incredibly fast it was titled the racefire by my daughter.

aluthman
09-27-2013, 10:41 AM
Racefire is a 2005 sunfire but its so incredibly fast it was titled the racefire by my daughter.

Hmm, that's odd... I always called mine the Sunflower...

master trojan
09-27-2013, 11:51 AM
LOL that was quick got bored with the K04 so quick. I still love mine its my daily and I love the 30mpg.

canadianA4B7
09-27-2013, 03:54 PM
Yes it was awesome great lil turbo! But i had goals and I wasn't quite there I assume a few more mods and maestro I could have gotten to my goal but this seems like the right solution.

shiro1745
09-27-2013, 05:24 PM
You can code the ECU for your new car with vag-com. I saw a video somewhere on how to do it, you just need a number from the new ECU, now I forgot if it's the part number, serial number or different one. But Maestro can probably read all those numbers.
I have to look for that video when I get home. I hope I saved it.

EDIT: here's a video for swapping the cluster and ECU. The numbers you need from both ECUs are some PIN numbers they say in the video and that the dealership cannot get them either(I really doubt it), only a specialized locksmith. From there it seems to be piece of cake, just follow the procedure in the video.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5_51qeEyec


Chip

canadianA4B7
09-28-2013, 04:45 PM
thanx shiro im going to take some more looks into that once i get some more time. but for now ive been kinda experimenting with GTX installations and ive got some questions for the more experienced members.
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000321_zps3b3b0329.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000321_zps3b3b0329.jpg.html)Test fit of the new turbo

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000328_zps33837016.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000328_zps33837016.jpg.html)oil return is un believable close to the motor mount. i don't know which way to install the oil return line (see below)
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000333_zpse61d4a48.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000333_zpse61d4a48.jpg.html)with the 90 going forward towards front bumper
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000334_zps05296970.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000334_zps05296970.jpg.html)or facing the rear bumper, either way its damn tight in there and im not really able to get hands and tools up to attach the hose. will attempt to install hose first then drop turbo into place but didn't have enough daylight.

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000330_zps16cb8fd4.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000330_zps16cb8fd4.jpg.html)this bloody intercooler pipe should just be cut off the car correct?

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000331_zps14643f06.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000331_zps14643f06.jpg.html)and the oil feed line, is this safe to have it actually touching the manifold and the turbo cold side? or is the restrictor not down far enough into the housing? im not sure where EPY had routed it b4 but it now seems a bit to high of a 90 to go below the manifold and above the turbo housing.

i tightened it all down by hand and was very carefull not to over tighten anything. i will torque wrench everything tomorrow when i pick one up. im kinda still needing a dump pipe as i couldn't find any stainless 1.5" pipe in my search yesterday. anyone with some insight just let me know. ill be searching till i find something that helps!!

mec
09-28-2013, 05:18 PM
The oil return should not have anything touching it. Over time anything can wear away at it and make a hole. You want to make sure that it is entirely isolated, don't let it touc the compressor because it will heat up the metal and the air over time.

canadianA4B7
09-28-2013, 05:35 PM
Thanx mec. Ive got to see how close the return line is to the mount. An i assume you mean the oil inlet line on the top of the turbo shouldnt touch either. Ill have to get some fittings then monday to re route the oil line seen above. Its touching and i knew that it would have to be changed

mec
09-28-2013, 10:22 PM
Thanx mec. Ive got to see how close the return line is to the mount. An i assume you mean the oil inlet line on the top of the turbo shouldnt touch either. Ill have to get some fittings then monday to re route the oil line seen above. Its touching and i knew that it would have to be changed

I'm out of town so all I have is my phone and tapatalk doesn't load the images. But with -an fittings you don't want them to hit anything, the virations can loosen them over time and if the tirbo lines aren't accessible then you have to take it all apart!

But also whenever your lines are making contact with other metal or harsh objects, you will scratch them and you can end up with holes.

I did a soft coolant hose swap on the hose that covers the timing belt, left it loose, it moved over onto the serpentine belt, which burnt a hole in it and made a huge mess! Be clean with your line install so you can avoid issues down the line. Also make sure to not over tighten -an lines, they are so sensitive. Really just get it finger right then give it another 1/8 turn maybe 1/4 if it feels loose, but don't compress them together with much force.

Charles.waite
09-28-2013, 11:48 PM
I'm out of town so all I have is my phone and tapatalk doesn't load the images. But with -an fittings you don't want them to hit anything, the virations can loosen them over time and if the tirbo lines aren't accessible then you have to take it all apart!

But also whenever your lines are making contact with other metal or harsh objects, you will scratch them and you can end up with holes.

I did a soft coolant hose swap on the hose that covers the timing belt, left it loose, it moved over onto the serpentine belt, which burnt a hole in it and made a huge mess! Be clean with your line install so you can avoid issues down the line. Also make sure to not over tighten -an lines, they are so sensitive. Really just get it finger right then give it another 1/8 turn maybe 1/4 if it feels loose, but don't compress them together with much force.

Hah. I mangled that stupid coolant line when I was doing my timing in January. I just pulled it tight so it fit and clamped it on. The timing cover corner hasn't rubbed a hole. Yet...

I've even got the replacement line in my basement. Too lazy to mess with it...

canadianA4B7
09-29-2013, 05:37 AM
Awesome thanx for the advice. It seems exrememly tight in there with this turbo. I am concerned with the oil return hose, but ive got some adjustments to make today and hope that it should free up aome space. The IWG bracket hits the motor mount so im gonna trim it down which should allow the turbo to be a bit higher when mounted. Or perhaps the motor mount will require a bit of trimming so the hose will clear the area i question. Otherwise should be in by the end of the day. But no oil feed line due to it currently touching the turbo.

ericpaulyoung
09-29-2013, 06:50 AM
Trim that bracket. Just cut the ****** off by about 1" and you will be fine.

EPY

ericpaulyoung
09-29-2013, 06:53 AM
The oil feed should fit fine. At least it did before. Maybe it is clocked slightly different. If you need to, you can reclick it. The torque on the bolts is 19 ft-lbs.

EPY.

canadianA4B7
09-29-2013, 08:20 AM
Gasket between oil return and turbo housing and oil return and oil pan? I had to bend the oil feed line this am and it should fit without touching now. This should all button up today! I've got to have a wastegate dump to atmosphere made for now because I could not get proper 1.5" STAINLESS at any shop locally fml, special order from vibrant!

And as this is going on I've found a complete 2.7t engine complete to go into my ar. As well new drakes clutch, 034 lightweight flywheel..... so I'll be riding in style and fresh turbos 3 total in both my rides!

ericpaulyoung
09-29-2013, 08:29 AM
Oh god. Another 2.7tt :)

Love it.

Charles.waite
09-29-2013, 10:29 AM
Oh god. Another 2.7tt :)

Love it.

Ugh. I want a 2.7t in my b7. That would make me so happy...

canadianA4B7
09-29-2013, 10:54 AM
I can sell one of the 2 I've got

Nothing fits in the b7! The turbo will have no oil drain and no coolant lines on it in my car. This bt shit making me very unhappy. Pics to come but holy nightmare!

canadianA4B7
09-29-2013, 02:37 PM
So on the k04 the n75 valve has 3 hoses. On the gtx im looking to operate the n75 the same way. Now my issue is where do i get my TURBO line from? The kit has an intake nipple to feed the n75, i can run a new line myself to the wastegate, but where to i feed the turbo nipple on the n75 from? Should there be a nipple on the housing of the gtx? Or do make a T in the line from the intake and put the 2 lines onto the n75?

Im soooooo damn close just need to tighten down a few bolts double check everything and the EWG and i canfire this thing up!

jsandor91
09-29-2013, 04:52 PM
On mine I have a boost port coming out of the silicone coupler that's on my turbo that goes to my n75

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

canadianA4B7
09-30-2013, 05:32 AM
Thanx! After futher inspection of my intake pipe it looks like there was a barbed nipple once threaded into the pipe. So today im going to have a hole drilled and tapped to install another nipple. Then i can use the N75. Once i get the remaining items maestro, MBC i can just install a plug into which ever nipple i wont require.
Im also curious as to where im supposed to hook up the oem valve cover nipples to? I believe the smaller one is just vented to atmosphere, but he larger one i notice many w drakes or vast VC. Have it routed towards the back of the motor? Where does it go to?

DRAKLORE
09-30-2013, 07:48 AM
First trip story goes like this. Once apon a time there was a car it had a turbo, i bought that car and a slightly bigger turbo into it. So other mods were invested and then car went to a talented Mr. Lovre of Kon Tech. He installed all these parts turning normal 2007 turbo A4 into a 20psi turbo charged miniture monster.

That drakes clutch and the single mass flywheel are like clutching clouds in heaven..... It grabs so smoothly and im say this as an intermediate to sub par semi pro with the standard 6 speed. Totally different audi experience.

Dude I'm slackin, just read this!
thanks for the compliments man :)
now you just need a JHM SSK to complete the experience

vce1232000
09-30-2013, 12:18 PM
Like this

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w381/ericpaulyoung/DEE8A155-5B45-4A4F-A3CC-5F5314D9861D-3271-00000323146E7A2E_zps5dd71cc6.jpg



And I drilled and tapped a new connection to the intake manifold.

http://i1073.photobucket.com/albums/w381/ericpaulyoung/E56BD540-5FB4-46C3-8A27-6E5C74B9DB08-3271-000003393D69AF9D_zpsb1d2cad7.jpg Don't mean to jack your thread. But couldn't help reading about the Synapse DV. Now that you posted that I'm in the market for one. I'm running a APR KO4 S3 system. I take it that I will need to relocate it? If I do. Do they sell a relocating kit? Now that I finally got bugs out. Time to add goodies again. This time I getting this installed at a APR Audi dealer. They straighten out the workmanship problem another dealer caused. Thanks for any suggestion upfront

canadianA4B7
09-30-2013, 02:19 PM
So it starts and runs, no dump pipe though...... Kinda risky i know but i couldnt get it done today and my welder is in serious pain pulled his back out o bad hes been schedualed for surgery.

The cars running but only boost to 12psi, likely due to the EWG currently only hooked to port D as synapse suggested, they said see where its at then move up through the stages by adding a T in the lines and slowly up the boost the n75 should be signalling o open...... Kinda confusing as all hell, but for now just staying off the pedal. It sounds amazing except when the ewg opens then it sounds like a banshee.... Kinda scary actually. Ill hook up a T in the wastegate line tomorrow am or later tonite. Anyway gonna be extremely wonderful once all dialed in!

Look out EPY ill be right on yer heels!

aluthman
09-30-2013, 04:33 PM
So are you saying your EWG is dumping into the engine bay? If so, I'm just going to say that's a bad idea and you probably shouldn't drive the car like that.

canadianA4B7
09-30-2013, 05:02 PM
Oh I'm well aware of that it will not b driven I'm going to have to grab a rental for a few days
I was in such a rush I didn't get enough time to get welded and then welder cudnt do it Cuz of his back so I'm screwed.

canadianA4B7
10-01-2013, 05:01 PM
can someone explain to me what needs to be done with these to nipples on the VC now that ive got the BT into the car. im assuming they 2 need to be vented to a 2nd catch can, or perhaps I can just put a filter onto them.....but in not really sure. many I see now have the replacement VC by vast or drakes. they are the 2 front nipples on the turbo side of the VC at the front of the engine bay. may seem like a dumb question perhaps im searching them as the wrong thing. one connected to the K03 was called Breather Tube but when searching I only find the OEM part and no other upgrades not sure what I should do.

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/valvecoverpic222_zps9ea79862.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/valvecoverpic222_zps9ea79862.jpg.html)

The car is parked and goes in for Dump pipe Friday.
I got my shipment from vibrant and other members stuff today, received Vibrant MBC, 2.5"-2" reducer needed to connect my FMIC to Turbo inlet, a shiny new 1.5" J bend to be used for my dump pipe, balance shaft delete stuff (thanx MEC), and my MAESTRO powertapp cable (thanx OPERATOR) now all ill need is some files!!!! I should receive something soon from Tapp himself or operator whoever has them will send them too me.
my allroad flywheel was delivered but not picked up, and drakes clutch should be delivered by wed or thurs. 2 cars under the knife at the same time is stressfull as hell!! I cannot wait to get at least 1 of them back onto the road (likely the b7 as it needs least amount of work). and the allroad will be just as amazing once it get new heart, clutch and Aluminum flywheel all hopefully in the next week.

aluthman
10-01-2013, 06:14 PM
The small one is the N80 line and can be left open to atmosphere IIRC. The large one is the rear PCV port. If you don't want to route this to the intake (most don't), you can block off the front port on the other side of the VC with a block off place and run a catch can vented to atmosphere. I've also seen people put a small filter on it and leave everything else alone. This may get messy though as oil will eventually accumulate there. There are a few other options also. I'd suggest reading Shiro's PCV Explained thread he made and pick one you like best. I'm doing a PCV to downpipe myself. I don't want to have to empty a catch can all the time.

canadianA4B7
10-01-2013, 06:46 PM
ok cool thanx ive got the rear PCV to catch can via 034s kit bought it on a black Friday sale last year. ill read up on the thread though now and see what hes done. I noticed that the replacement VC do not have the smaller nipple and assumed it can just be capped or ignored. thanx for the info. the rear block off id have to change my current block off and vent another catch can to atmosphere... this i saw somewhere but cannot find the thread now that im looking into it more in depth.

seal66
10-02-2013, 02:23 PM
Hey when you ran the Syanpses dv on the ko4 do you have any more pictures of it hooked up? I am thinking that the hose might be long enough to relocate this to the top of the motor, cause of how my relocation kit is, I can not hook up my Synapses dv

canadianA4B7
10-02-2013, 04:05 PM
this just shows the relocation kit with the adaptor for the oem DV, the synapse would sit the same in the car as this
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000349_zps57d6457e.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000349_zps57d6457e.jpg.html)

i did this to show you how it could fit with the hoses flipped. I thought about doing this myself by never went ahead with it but IMO i think it should work its would be no different in my eyes.
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000350_zps27dde5e4.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000350_zps27dde5e4.jpg.html)

canadianA4B7
10-02-2013, 07:23 PM
Had the car towed today to a highly qualified performance shop to weld up the dump pipe. The neighbour is still in some serious pain as i mentioned b4 so he said he wants to do the work but isnt up to it right now. Vibrant delivered the 1.5"jbend stainless yesterday along w MBC. maestro cable aswell but i have to yet pull the ecu part number.... Didnt know which number was needed via vag com and not enuff time as CAA showed up as im sitting in the car trying to get the part number. So i am stuck again.

On a positive note clutch was delivered for my allroad, picked up brand spanking new 140A alternator.... And gaskets and coolant hoses will be here friday as well as my aluminum flywheel.
So its now kinda a race to see which car is done first! The A4 will be done friday i believe.... But stranger things have happened!

aluthman
10-02-2013, 08:09 PM
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a129/2fast4sanity/ecuinfo_zpse97eced3.jpg (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/2fast4sanity/media/ecuinfo_zpse97eced3.jpg.html)

This is how to get your ECU # if Maestro can't read it because of an existing tune.

canadianA4B7
10-02-2013, 08:17 PM
Wow i have pics on my phone from earlier that are similar! Lol i just snapped pics of a few moduals i wasnt sure but hope this number looks right

8e1910115g

jsandor91
10-02-2013, 08:37 PM
Hey when you ran the Syanpses dv on the ko4 do you have any more pictures of it hooked up? I am thinking that the hose might be long enough to relocate this to the top of the motor, cause of how my relocation kit is, I can not hook up my Synapses dv

if you decide you wanna do the cold side relocation or need hose for whatever reason. check out verociousmotorsports on ebay. it seems to be very high quality and they sell it in racekor red

canadian have you figured out all your pcv issues yet?

seal66
10-03-2013, 06:50 AM
Thanks for the photos. I could not get mine to hook up at all to the hoses. I am gonna flip run high on it. See on the ko4 running cold side would be pointless cause you still need to run both ports off of the turbo across to the cold side.

canadianA4B7
10-03-2013, 01:35 PM
if you decide you wanna do the cold side relocation or need hose for whatever reason. check out verociousmotorsports on ebay. it seems to be very high quality and they sell it in racekor red

canadian have you figured out all your pcv issues yet?

Im going to have i piece of pipe made to lenghten my intake pipe. The cone filter EPY included is massive a bonus but too large with the EWG. So the plan is to get a piece of stainless approx 3-4.5" long and have it welded to the intake pipe i have and have 2 nipples added onto it at the same time. for both the nipples on the VC. so essentially it will be the same as stock setup, with catch can. and the same as shanes image posted here above. That way the new filter will not be hitting the ewg or the fender. Its tight in my engine bay slightly too tight for my likeing but i will make it all work. I have a pic and ill post it.

Just spoke with he shop im having weld the dump pipe hes half laughing at the A4 as we walk out to it. Hes a big engine turbo charged freak himself. Anyway it should be good work ive known and seen his stuff, and today a nomad wagon, 69 chevy truck with big block, old caddy with side pipes needing a motor.... All sitting outside his shop! He doesnt mess around.

canadianA4B7
10-07-2013, 01:51 PM
Will be picking up the car from custom dump pipe install any time now! Next will be getting proper info to tapp so i can get a base file for the new turbo. Ive ot to change out the N75 for my new vibrant MBC. And pick up my new k&n filter tomorrow. With that ill have a small extension made for the intake pipe to clear the ewg and snugly fit. Ill also have to get the intake made to have nipples on it to attach to the VC. Which will be done by weeks end. I hope!

ericpaulyoung
10-07-2013, 02:29 PM
Woohoo :)

Starting to catch up to what everyone has been doing. Just my opinion, but a MBC is not a good idea. The N74 will run a LOT better and smoother in town and driving around. Seriously consider keeping the N75!! Also, if you put on the MBC you cannot control the boost curve for smooth transition and multiple driving conditions.

KEEP THE N75 !

epy

canadianA4B7
10-07-2013, 04:09 PM
alright ill try to sell that sucker or return. but shit brand new stuff I hate giving away at a loss!!!anyway it runs, the dump pipe looks amazing!!! too bad itll never be seen under the heat shield. unless I fab up something fancy that will just protect the filter kinda like the OEM one just larger. Im only able to boost to 10PSI, ive got the synapse set to port D which I believe is only 10PSI so im sure it will need to be changed to high opening point. but it seems strong regardless. and ive got some rattling stuff under the hood. likely the filter or the DP bouncing off the cross member. ill need some exhaust wrap, and some spark plug wire wraps aswell to protect the O2 sensor wires. they are a good 2" away but im trying not to have any issues! LOL I just threw in a GTX im sure ill have some troubles!!!!

anyway sitting in the rocketship now reading the ECU for TAPP and the master of power EPY to help me out with a tune!! cant wait to dial this thing in and see what ive got!!

EPY mail box is full!!

ericpaulyoung
10-07-2013, 04:31 PM
Just emptied my mailbox.

Did you cut back the bracket on the turbo so it doesn't touch the motor mount? If not, that could be the rattle :/

canadianA4B7
10-07-2013, 04:54 PM
yes the bracket was cut. and quite a bit off of it. made it like the other brackets or clamps on the turbo. I bought stern motor mounts aswell. I want to toss them on this coming weekend. im sure its the filter I posted up a pic somewhere where its making contact under the hood.
pic below now. the yellow hits the fender inside and the red is my make shift design of new intake pipe im going to have made.
its tight on space since the filter is so massive. so I bought one a bit shorter and just a cylinder. so it should clear the EWG and fender once I Re-fit everything and have that intake pipe lengthened a tiny bit. I think 3" extension with the 2 nipples welded onto it for the VC attached will make it look somewhat decent under the hood. I will try to get video of the car as it is now but I definitely need to get some more PSI outta that EWG. ill hook up a T in the lines from the N75 to EWG and attach to A&D in the am and see how that reacts on my ride to work. Should net 14.5PSI instead of the 10PSI im reaching now. it seems to be a smooth curve to the 10PSI but clearly below the GTX potential. im guessing I need to get the EWG more into the 19 or higher or change the spring and adjust again. but synapse says to take small steps not to go big or you risk problems.

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000347_zps07de9921.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000347_zps07de9921.jpg.html)

drumnjuny
10-07-2013, 05:45 PM
just saw this sorry VIBRANT IS A PIECE OF SHIT it makes 0 sense how people use it as a MBC. it leaks air by nature it causes a boost leak. i highly disrecommend it. then again maybe i'm just retarded

mec
10-07-2013, 06:52 PM
Why are you interested in running a manual boost controller? you have an n75 which is much smoother and has failsafes built into your ECU, n75=good!

canadianA4B7
10-07-2013, 07:01 PM
yes it was a thought to use the MBC and I bought it already. it will end up in the classifieds now im sure. its new from vibrant there best one they sell cuz I don't cheap out. but its sitting in the box an as more tell me to stay with the N75 it looks like ill stick with it.

anyways just adjusted the EWG to ports A&D on the Synapse now it jumps to like 16 er so PSI. seems like im creeping up there. my tune is only built for 2+ setup so im under powering the GTX and it needs some dialing in and maestro once I get the base file. Im going to log with maestro tomorrow. likely I can pull off a 2nd gear pull. but just went for a quick ride and it slowly boosts till I get to about 3000RPM then it just snaps to 16PSI at like 3100 and holds to redline... well I didn't do any redline pulls but it just holds spot on and ive got no creep as of now. but I can just feel the turbo wanting more and more but im not doing anything crazy.... YET!!

oh and by the time I get it dialed in it will be going to a dyno.... im dieing to get some numbers!!! I know that's not what its all about.

p0isin
10-07-2013, 07:16 PM
Congrats on the build progress so far. Can't wait to see more pictures and videos!

canadianA4B7
10-08-2013, 09:26 AM
Just recieved my stage for base file from eurodyne! Damn work has to get in the way of car tuning!

canadianA4B7
10-14-2013, 06:54 PM
Earlier today i installed the new k&n filter and adjusted the intake pipe for a bit more clearance. Which all was good, then i tossed in the 60lbs synapse spring. Tried the vaccuum line on port d alone, only boosted to 15psi. So i changed the vaccuum hoses to port a&d which got me posting to 20psi. Tried to adjust the preload spring a tiny bit 2 complete turns thinking i wud get about 22psi of boost. But that was un successful. Im stuck at 20psi. But it pulls awesome. Im getting to 20psi just shy of 3300rpm.

EPY is working on my maestro file. I might load the base file to see what its boost setup for from chriss tapp is set too. And too see how much better the tune is. A side note. The unitronic tune run on the GTX is smooth. It actually seems to be running decent on the uni tune. Which is a huge surprise. I need to do some logging with maestro but im having some trouble saving the files after ive logged. Should i just use vcds since im familiar w it? Or anyone have a idiots guide to maestro data logging?

Synapse stuff is awesome! The car sounds just great, you hear it spool, not vaccuum sounding, its seems to have some lag but its pretty smooth boost. When it reaches 20psi the wg is opening obviously and boost (on the gange) is held right on 20psi right now, untill you let off throttle hearing a great synapse dv closing noise and i assume some of the snap is coming out of the ewg as its clearly snaping closed at the same time...

I need a camera badly! I think I could even make EPY himself a bit jealous of his own old system and how it is now operating in canada! Once i get the new tune into the car this should be amazing! As it is already!

The bs delete and 1.8t oiling system and mocal cooler is next items to go in.

And allroad engine swap should be underway by weeks end aswell....

canadianA4B7
10-20-2013, 11:14 AM
Big thanx to epy as he got me a file last nite to run on my 2.5bar MAP. So once installed and gone for a drive boost begins very low in the rpms and I'm peaking at 22psi right now. Slight adjustment on EWG may b able to hit 25 even on this 2.5bar map. As I did get to that using the k04 w no front bumper on the car. So im very blown away at the performance of the GTX2863. And need to be bought a go pro for Xmas!

canadianA4B7
10-22-2013, 11:42 AM
Fml already got oil in my intercooler! Just found out the guys putting some welds on my exhaust showed me a few drips coming out of my passengers side intercooler pipe that goes into the turbo. I'll put the car up and remove the silicone connector. Should this be a serious concern since the turbos only got less the 5000kms on it?

mec
10-24-2013, 11:05 AM
Big thanx to epy as he got me a file last nite to run on my 2.5bar MAP. So once installed and gone for a drive boost begins very low in the rpms and I'm peaking at 22psi right now. Slight adjustment on EWG may b able to hit 25 even on this 2.5bar map. As I did get to that using the k04 w no front bumper on the car. So im very blown away at the performance of the GTX2863. And need to be bought a go pro for Xmas!

You can hit 30 psi or more with the 2.5 map. The Ecu won't be able to read it though

ericpaulyoung
10-24-2013, 11:22 AM
Fml already got oil in my intercooler! Just found out the guys putting some welds on my exhaust showed me a few drips coming out of my passengers side intercooler pipe that goes into the turbo. I'll put the car up and remove the silicone connector. Should this be a serious concern since the turbos only got less the 5000kms on it?

Not a worry at all. The turbo seals all leak a little bit (nothing seals 100%). Don't worry about it.

epy

canadianA4B7
10-26-2013, 11:27 AM
You can hit 30 psi or more with the 2.5 map. The Ecu won't be able to read it though

ive installed the 3 bar map, and re flashed the ECU with EPYs updated file. now im still only seeing 22/23 PSI through maestro, and on my gauge ive seen 25PSI but I bet the gauge is a bit off from what the ECU or Maestro is actually reading. or are you saying that I could be actually hitting higher PSI and the computer is only still reading the factory 22PSI? what would the deal be with that? ive got maestro tune and the upgraded MAP shouldn't the ECU be understanding all that stuff and read the higher PSI im actually or potentially getting? ok im going to adjust the the EWG a bit further, as it seems to not be dialed in completely yet. so when the rain holds off for a few minutes ill sneak out and dial it in a bit more.

as for the leaky oil spot. it was about 1 teaspoon of oil in the intercooler. so im not too worried. if it was more id be doing more searching. but all the oil and coolant lines are tight but I will get in there again and lightly tighten them all again.

anyone else ever noticed a bit of oil smell after going BT? sometimes at idle it happens I assume catch can fumes?

aluthman
10-26-2013, 11:36 AM
I've noticed oily smells from my car here and there. I disconnected my PCV to downpipe setup and went with a VTA catch can, so that's probably the culprit.

ericpaulyoung
10-26-2013, 12:44 PM
ive installed the 3 bar map, and re flashed the ECU with EPYs updated file. now im still only seeing 22/23 PSI through maestro, and on my gauge ive seen 25PSI but I bet the gauge is a bit off from what the ECU or Maestro is actually reading. or are you saying that I could be actually hitting higher PSI and the computer is only still reading the factory 22PSI? what would the deal be with that? ive got maestro tune and the upgraded MAP shouldn't the ECU be understanding all that stuff and read the higher PSI im actually or potentially getting? ok im going to adjust the the EWG a bit further, as it seems to not be dialed in completely yet. so when the rain holds off for a few minutes ill sneak out and dial it in a bit more.

as for the leaky oil spot. it was about 1 teaspoon of oil in the intercooler. so im not too worried. if it was more id be doing more searching. but all the oil and coolant lines are tight but I will get in there again and lightly tighten them all again.

anyone else ever noticed a bit of oil smell after going BT? sometimes at idle it happens I assume catch can fumes?

NO, the 3 bar file just has that checked in the wizard, so it should perform exactly the same, but now you can log higher pressures in the future.

epy

canadianA4B7
10-31-2013, 05:36 PM
And logging higher pressure is the goal! Ill get there at some point just have to get all the ducks in a row! Now all this talk about 2.7tt builds and a spare sitting around.... But i think id go 2.9l stroker, and some mid sized turbos that spool below 3000rpm.... If its doable ive got the engine available next week! And maybe a sale of a allroad in the future to fund the beast!
Anyway im going to push forward with the gtx im happy with the 4 cylinder for now

canadianA4B7
11-03-2013, 07:00 PM
anyone guess what this little spot would be? http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000470_zps30b924f9.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000470_zps30b924f9.jpg.html)

after like an hour with the boost leak tester hooked up in my car. I finally found this little guy in the pipe that goes from my intake pipe to the DV. what a pain in the ass it was to find being that its pretty tight. now there were a few other tiny little spots between welds that must have likely been fine when initially painted, but over time the material metal or paint that had sealed the holes, removed itself. Now EPY perhaps this is why your turbo had seen the pieces of fins chipped when you removed it b4 sending it to me? this may have been the tiny particle that got into the turbo.

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000468_zpsa7eb88da.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000468_zpsa7eb88da.jpg.html)
and this was the only way I could find the spot once the pipe was out. I held a flashlight into the pipe and turned the lights off in the room. and the photo above shows the tiny speck of light that was shining through.

so boost leak found! boost leak fixed

rongeur
11-03-2013, 07:03 PM
I could be wrong but I think EPY fabbed that up himself, send him a PM

canadianA4B7
11-05-2013, 05:06 AM
Yup already done he got an email bout it. It was no big deal not hid fault by any means just thought I would share. Now that the leak is gone now I've found this fault code and some weird stuff w the car! P0236 boost pressure sensor. It looks like either maf is now dirty, or MAP (which was just replaced) has capped out. I'll try to get yet another 1 or change back to the oem 2.5 bar MAP for now.

ericpaulyoung
11-05-2013, 05:27 AM
I could be wrong but I think EPY fabbed that up himself, send him a PM

No way. That baby was professionally done!! :) oh, maybe I did make that.

canadianA4B7
11-05-2013, 05:08 PM
No way. That baby was professionally done!! :) oh, maybe I did make that.

ya so semi pro done??? LOL I was only making an observation. my welder was the one who had suggested that it may have damaged the turbo blades prior to you removing from your car.

anyway after that lil scare with the p0236 fault code I figured it out. it was the 3 bar MAP sensor. I dunno WTF the problem is maybe since I went back to the 2.5 Bar file it doesn't like to work and caused the issues I was having yesterday. though it was acting up even on the file MEC had done to just reduce my boost. so its a mystery. im going to contact the guys who sold me that MAP and request a replacement since I got like less then 5000KMs on it b4 it decided to fail. though im not counting on anything they will likely say it was something I did. anyway the cars back on the 2.5Bar MAP sensor, and the file EPY had done for that setup. the only code that has appeared after a good long drive is the UNDERBOOST cel. after finding that one leak im going to have to double and or triple check the complete system again.

boosting now to 15-17PSI and keeping it safe until I can get another MAP and the RS4 LPFP controller.

EPY hope yer welding skills improve for the Sequential build!! it would be a shame to have a small leak again!!

ericpaulyoung
11-05-2013, 08:11 PM
If you have the 3 bar MAP sensor installed, you have to run a tune for the 3 bar MAP. do not try to run a 2.5 bar MAP file with the 3 bar sensor installed. You cannot mix and match them.

canadianA4B7
11-06-2013, 03:06 AM
Completely logical! But the 3 bar tune that Mec lowered the boost on was still setup on the 3 bar map I believe? Or wud the reduction in boost still require the 2.5 bar map even though the tune was designed to operate on the 3 bar map? I 100% figured that's what the issue was. But i still do think my 3 bar map sensor isn't right. Will see what happens I've requested to return the item for A replacement

canadianA4B7
12-13-2013, 07:33 AM
Last Tuesday I dropped off the B7 to be stored for winter. The day after my 034 Motorsports mounts were delivered and my rs4 lpfp controller. Unfortunately the snow has started to fly. And I'll be rolling in the allroad with replaced S4 motor untill next spring. anyway just sucks that parts weren't delivered a week earlier so I could have cranked the boost back up and ran with no fuel issues. Next spring I'll work the remaining bugs out.

canadianA4B7
01-30-2014, 08:32 PM
So i had to pull car out of storage cuz my ar suspension crapped out.

This weekend RS4 lpfp controller (epy if you read this i tried to pm you but box was full, need to know if files are already set to work with the upgraded controller). The files to me look like the controller should just pump as it should but im not 100% sure. Gonna pull the turbo out and run a new oil inlet line, it drips a few drops of oil ever 5000kms and im just not happy with that, all new 034 motorsports engine mounts, and stern trans mount. Should make things a bit more rigid which im sure will be different but i diont give a damn.

aluthman
01-31-2014, 02:32 AM
I can send you the .bin file for the lpfp duty map. I just set the target pressure map to 5 bar everywhere and it works great. On the last pull I did, pressure only went down to 4.3 bar at 7k rpm.

aluthman
01-31-2014, 02:33 AM
Your's may drop a touch lower since bigger turbo = more fuel needed.

canadianA4B7
01-31-2014, 04:28 AM
Your's may drop a touch lower since bigger turbo = more fuel needed.
Yes this is what im trying to avoid, I get a tiny bit lean up top. So if i set everything to 5bar, which I believe it is at now. If i still get a bit lean can it be bumped up to say 5.3bar? Its only above 5500rpm that I see the lean condition.

aluthman
01-31-2014, 06:36 AM
Have you logged your lpfp pressure and duty?

aluthman
01-31-2014, 06:38 AM
What do your logs look like above 5500rpm? What are requested and actual lambda, o2 corrections, and injection times?

ericpaulyoung
01-31-2014, 06:09 PM
You'll be fine either way :)

epy

canadianA4B7
02-03-2014, 07:45 AM
[QUOTE=ericpaulyoung;9432608]You'll be fine either way :)

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_00000744_zps1f85c2df.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_00000744_zps1f85c2df.jpg.html)
Thanx Mr epy. I'm gonna take some time this week and look over the files. Been hectic w life and school right now. But got everything out and back in this weekend. It seems the oil in the intake tube and tiny amount in intercooler tube is just from the turbo itself. One coupler was loose. So i clocked the turbo a bit which made tightening the couplers a bit easier.

I think i need to go to a different valve cover to eliminate the lines running from intake to VC which I assume is where the oil is coming from. A little splashing around while driving but I don't know. The pic above is the tiny bit of chipping done to the blades. Ive contacted ATP as this in my opinion shud not happen.
also 034 Motorsports mounts are rigid. Too rigid. Take off from stop is unbareable bibs in car. Stern trans mount makes shifting smoother much smoother, I'll take a pic of oem mount let's just say if yer still on stock mount you need to upgrade. My low km car looks like the mount has seen better days.

canadianA4B7
02-10-2014, 02:44 PM
Oil in intercooler pipe and intake pipe. Would the best solution be to replace the oem valve cover w aftermarket? Or just remove and cover over the 2 inlets on the turbo side of vc that connect to the intake itself?

Jake@JHM
02-10-2014, 02:46 PM
Oil in intercooler pipe and intake pipe. Would the best solution be to replace the oem valve cover w aftermarket? Or just remove and cover over the 2 inlets on the turbo side of vc that connect to the intake itself?

A little oil blow by is pretty normal on a journal bearing turbo. When switching to my FMIC on both my old B5 S4 and my current B7 A4 I was able to dump oil out of the SMIC.

Jake

canadianA4B7
02-10-2014, 02:50 PM
Wow! So this oil is coming out of the motor correct? Its coming out of vc going into the intake, through the turbo and down into intercooler? Am i understanding correct? I removed the turbo both this past friday and the weekend b4. It seems that there was likely say 1/4 of a quart between the week. Which seems high.

I have got catch can right now and being winter ive opened the bottom valve so it dumps the fluid out all the time it seems ive been getting lots of fluid in the can and it is terrible smelling and annoying to have to drain 1/week.

Jake@JHM
02-10-2014, 02:53 PM
If it is the normal oil blow by, it is coming out of the turbo itself. It just works its way out of the turbo and into the compressor and then into the intercooler where it pools up over time.

canadianA4B7
02-10-2014, 05:02 PM
If it is the normal oil blow by, it is coming out of the turbo itself. It just works its way out of the turbo and into the compressor and then into the intercooler where it pools up over time.

And in the intake pipe from valve cover? It seems like its coming in from the vc. Ok im not going to sweat it. But i will keep an eye on it. An ill make a point to inspect the FMIC come spring time. I doubt its getting that far. I have kinda arranged my intercooler pipes so it somewhat pools at the one coupler.

canadianA4B7
06-10-2014, 10:32 PM
been some time since ive put up an update heres a pic. recently installed brembo 18Z fronts and a set of S4 rear brakes aswell the Bentley CGT wheels and Koni adjustable coilovers. Rides very very nice IMHO, its not as rough as I thought cuz I was thinking insanely rough. its much tighter in turns. No rubbing at all what so ever. and minimal spacers, I think 5mm fronts and 3mm rears. perhaps ill go larger rears in the future but for now it looks nice!!

http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/IMG_20140609_133910_zps472a849a.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/IMG_20140609_133910_zps472a849a.jpg.html)

canadianA4B7
06-16-2014, 04:41 PM
so adding to this on going project,

-im replacing the block and its coming with a set of OEM pistons (if someone can convince me to change them out for wossners at a decent price I might do it)
-balance shaft delete kit and change to 06A parts which I purchased long ago and just have never installed
-Balance crank, connecting rods, pistons, flywheel and whatever rotational stuff needs to be balanced
-minor head work looks like new exhaust valves, springs retainers and likely shims, and seals???? (if anyone can confirm im going the right route please chim in)
-ill have it cleaned up pretty much is the plan. some minor polish work really and that's about all. not looking to go crazy just want to free up some flow
-next thing is turbo..... GTX 2863 has been a lot of fun. but it seems like it might have some oil issues. hopefully its nothing serious. but if it is, perhaps just buy something different, 2867 or 2871... and hope that the .72 hot side will fit the turbine and still be a ton of fun.

canadianA4B7
08-16-2014, 01:46 PM
little update. car was running rough for some time, found out I was having oil in the intercooler. which all would likely say that the turbo seals have been cooked. but it still spools quick holds boost and no noise from the turbo. took car back to the guy who built it for me. and it seems ive got some tune issues. im a bit to rich on the bottom end at idle and im running a bit lean on the top end above 6000RPM. so ive been revising some tune stuff myself and have forwarded to a few of the more experienced guys to take a look and see if im on the right track. ive decided to drop the balance shaft delete, and a few other things. which are up for sale now in classifieds. the head work is still in my future plans. as it will only improve performance slightly im in no rush to have the work done.
so looking for some advice. with the current S3 injectors should I just add water meth? or should I change out the S3 injectors for the RS4 units and then add meth?
it looks like ive maxed out the injectors in the high RPM's. any thought from the masses?

drumnjuny
08-16-2014, 01:48 PM
my vote, stay with S3 injectors for sure. if you buy RS4's though, buy mine lol. i'll sell em to ya for cheap. <10k miles on em.

instead of adding more fuel, lean it out a bit in your peak powerband. from what i've heard that's how to get the most power out of these motors.

aluthman
08-16-2014, 03:45 PM
He's going too lean over 6k. The injection time plateaus at 12.24 ms, which leads me to believe he's out of injector. Actual lambda reads 0.88 on the logs which is not a good place to be at WOT.

ericpaulyoung
08-16-2014, 06:36 PM
Add meth injection with around 80% meth and you will knock the injection times back down to 8-9. You only need 125 ml - 175 ml and you will be fine. It is effectively a fifth injector.

EPY.

aluthman
08-16-2014, 07:11 PM
I peak in the mid 7s for injection time right now. I'm curious what kind of changes I'll see when I add 550ml/hr worth of meth nozzles. (I'll probably have to get smaller nozzles, but I'm gonna start with what I already have.)

canadianA4B7
03-18-2015, 06:43 AM
ive been gone awhile guys ive been silently reading in the back ground but last year really took a dump on my life. so some positive pick up would be greatly appreciated ill take all the criticism you can all dish out negative or positive. feel free I hit rock bottom and am on the climb back up. ladders been pretty steep and holes been pretty deep but im climbing. one step at a time.

ive changed the in tank pump as it kicked the bucket. car took a dump on my while up in northern Ontario Canada. started her to drive home. and well shortly there after had some nasty smoke issues coming out the exhaust and well I shut her down and towed it home. I think the coolant froze and blew seals in the turbo. I have not lost any coolant at all, so im feeling its not the head gasket. ive got excessive oil drain through the turbo into the intercooler.

cars been sitting since December 10ish. but im going to hopefully get it back on the road for this summer. hope I can score a water meth kit from maestro or where ever else the masses suggest. replace the turbo. anyones thoughts on center housings will be helpful. new 2863, 2867, 2871 all will fit into the turbo and with the .72 hotside I feel I can move enough air.
im leaning towards replacing or rebuilding the head for piece of mind. new springs retainers and such possibly just have it a bit ported maybe clean the deck aswell just so I know its flat. don't think ill have any issues with compression as the local guys have said they should be able to just sand it essentially to make sure surfaces are clean before installing new or rebuilt.

in the mean time I needed wheels. and I grew up in a GMC family my old man worked locally in the LS engine plant here in St catharines Ontario Canada. so rightfully so I went to what I was raised on. And being that its a LS area im in the works with this project. currently a 4.8L but I picked up a 2002 Camaro with a 5.7l LS1 on the cheap.

2003 Sierra 4"lift 35" trail digger wheels.
http://i1171.photobucket.com/albums/r541/canadianA4B7/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsqetwxn6m.jpg (http://s1171.photobucket.com/user/canadianA4B7/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsqetwxn6m.jpg.html)

Operator
03-18-2015, 07:40 AM
It's a long haul, but keep plugging away!!!! Digging the truck!!!

canadianA4B7
03-18-2015, 09:26 AM
Thanx operator. It's tones of fun too. Live in farm/wine country. So there's actually more trails then I even thought. That route is an old farming road, no longer used. And about 30seconds walking distance from my door. Needless to say every time I leave or come home I don't take the rds any more.

rkesh88
03-18-2015, 09:44 AM
I have a 2871 chra i may let go for cheap if youre interested.

aluthman
03-18-2015, 09:45 AM
I just bought a "truck" too! I got a '98 S10 for $1k lol. It's going to be my beater for when the b7 goes down for extended periods.

canadianA4B7
03-18-2015, 10:48 AM
I have a 2871 chra i may let go for cheap if youre interested.

Pics and price? If u wanna pm me price that's cool. I'll take a look through your build see how far off I am from yours to run the 2871 but seems im pretty close to others builds with that turbo. I do love my low boost 2863. And will be turning down my rev limiter this time. Unless I build the spare block I have and install the 06A oil pump that's still sitting in reciever wrapping from MEC. Thanx a lot.

Jake@JHM
03-18-2015, 10:58 AM
mmmm LS swap.

canadianA4B7
03-18-2015, 10:59 AM
I just bought a "truck" too! I got a '98 S10 for $1k lol. It's going to be my beater for when the b7 goes down for extended periods.

Nice when I'm done with the possible LS1 into the truck you should buy the 4.8 with ls1 cam and valvesprings, Camaro trans 4l60e (likely same as in truck now) complete wiring and computer. There's harnesses alone for $4-600 I'll likely be selling the whole package for a bit more then that. It's a weekend swap into a s10. And more reliable then are Audi will ever be. Funny enough im only 100km less then the car on a tank of fuel with the v8. If I were on stock or smaller wheels I'd prolly have better mileage then the A4 lol

canadianA4B7
03-18-2015, 11:02 AM
mmmm LS swap.

If I could source proper adapter plate from the 4.8 to my A4 transmission...... Don't you think ive already considered this!! It seems the 4.8 5.3 and 6.0 and skinnier the the Audi 4.2 v8. And well i haven't seem EPY do it yet so that could be an audizine first!m


Let me rephrase actually if jhm were to make me an adapter plate ship it to me and allow me to test fit it to the A4 trans then test the item for them if be even more inclined to do the swap lol

Jake@JHM
03-18-2015, 11:06 AM
If I could source proper adapter plate from the 4.8 to my A4 transmission...... Don't you think ive already considered this!! It seems the 4.8 5.3 and 6.0 and skinnier the the Audi 4.2 v8. And well i haven't seem EPY do it yet so that could be an audizine first!

Someone did a swap in an RS6 to the 01E trans with just a basic adapter plate that he had made. It is completely doable!

canadianA4B7
03-18-2015, 11:14 AM
Someone did a swap in an RS6 to the 01E trans with just a basic adapter plate that he had made. It is completely doable!

Judas. I've seen vids I've read some of the build but know nothing about what he did for the plate. So I've got options is what yer telling me. Perhaps your also suggesting saving LS1 5.7 for the car instead of into the truck???(I stll consider the 4.8 an LS as they are all the same essentially) I question the torque down low in the A4 though. I'd be worried about tearing apart drivetrain under heavy load. But I'm sure others are testing these limits with sequential builds and what not going on in my years hiatus. This could get interesting.

Anyone interested in buying my 2.0T???? Build thread entails all parts and the turbo will likely be swapped to new chra. Any interest.... I'm all ears/eyes

Jake@JHM
03-18-2015, 11:17 AM
Judas. I've seen vids I've read some of the build but know nothing about what he did for the plate. So I've got options is what yer telling me. Perhaps your also suggesting saving LS1 5.7 for the car instead of into the truck???(I stll consider the 4.8 an LS as they are all the same essentially) I question the torque down low in the A4 though. I'd be worried about tearing apart drivetrain under heavy load. But I'm sure others are testing these limits with sequential builds and what not going on in my years hiatus. This could get interesting.

Anyone interested in buying my 2.0T???? Build thread entails all parts and the turbo will likely be swapped to new chra. Any interest.... I'm all ears/eyes

I would put the 5.7 in the B7, unless you really need the extra displacement in the truck. The 4.8 was designed for a truck, and the 5.7 ls1 was designed for a performance car - hence SS camaro and C5 vette etc.. Plus it wills ave you time from having to do TWO swaps, instead of just one.

canadianA4B7
03-18-2015, 11:28 AM
I would put the 5.7 in the B7, unless you really need the extra displacement in the truck. The 4.8 was designed for a truck, and the 5.7 ls1 was designed for a performance car - hence SS camaro and C5 vette etc.. Plus it wills ave you time from having to do TWO swaps, instead of just one.

So cam and ls6 valve spring the truck putting me at 350hp on the 4.8.

And lil larger cam on the Ls1 5.7 w springs. Clean port heads, possible re ring. And be at approx 400awhp and more torque then crazy town?

Jake you bastard! Shall we do a tally here?? Maybe I'll swap a set of 2863 turbos onto the 5.7 aswell.... No way in hell will I do that but if I can sell the 2.0 for decent price I'd be all over the 4.8 or 5.7 swap into the A4. Perhaps some vendor incentives or if I can find a sponsor.

Great now I'm thinking why would you do this jake why??

Jake@JHM
03-18-2015, 11:33 AM
So cam and ls6 valve spring the truck putting me at 350hp on the 4.8.

And lil larger cam on the Ls1 5.7 w springs. Clean port heads, possible re ring. And be at approx 400awhp and more torque then crazy town?

Jake you bastard! Shall we do a tally here?? Maybe I'll swap a set of 2863 turbos onto the 5.7 aswell.... No way in hell will I do that but if I can sell the 2.0 for decent price I'd be all over the 4.8 or 5.7 swap into the A4. Perhaps some vendor incentives or if I can find a sponsor.

Great now I'm thinking why would you do this jake why??

Haha!

You can even pick up an LS1 intake mani for cheap and toss that on the 4.8 as well I believe.

A standard head and cam package with some long tubes will make that 5.7 a very healthy engine, and be a MONSTER with with quattro system.

LS swaps are EASY to get running, and you can even leave the OEM ECU plugged in to function your windows, locks, stereo, etc..

canadianA4B7
03-18-2015, 12:02 PM
Haha!

You can even pick up an LS1 intake mani for cheap and toss that on the 4.8 as well I believe.

A standard head and cam package with some long tubes will make that 5.7 a very healthy engine, and be a MONSTER with with quattro system.

LS swaps are EASY to get running, and you can even leave the OEM ECU plugged in to function your windows, locks, stereo, etc..

Perhaps this is a new plan..... Truck intakes are proven to provide more torque. I've had offers on my truck intake from ls1 5.7 owners since I started talks of the swap. The ls1 intake is lower which I would need to use to fit into the A4 front end.

Any concern with the torque though? I've got a set of your front axles that were never used so I have that on my side. I'd rather sell em but no one seems to ever brake em. I'd feel is need a limited slip rear diff for extra fun and prolly a centre diff swap too. But I'd be surprised if the stock trans would handle 5.7L worth of torque. As you said long headers, mild cam and guys are running Z06 power from the ls1 block. So 400+ hp and prolly much higher torque depending cam and head work.

Is this where I post a 2.0T motor for sale?

aluthman
03-18-2015, 01:52 PM
Nice when I'm done with the possible LS1 into the truck you should buy the 4.8 with ls1 cam and valvesprings, Camaro trans 4l60e (likely same as in truck now) complete wiring and computer. There's harnesses alone for $4-600 I'll likely be selling the whole package for a bit more then that. It's a weekend swap into a s10. And more reliable then are Audi will ever be. Funny enough im only 100km less then the car on a tank of fuel with the v8. If I were on stock or smaller wheels I'd prolly have better mileage then the A4 lol

My S10 is a 5 spd. If I were going to do a V8 swap, I would chose a truck that was in better shape than this one. It doesn't look all that great. I need to replace the passenger cab corner soon due to rust. It'll be my first attempt at serious body work/panel repair. Should be interesting.

canadianA4B7
03-18-2015, 02:11 PM
My S10 is a 5 spd. If I were going to do a V8 swap, I would chose a truck that was in better shape than this one. It doesn't look all that great. I need to replace the passenger cab corner soon due to rust. It'll be my first attempt at serious body work/panel repair. Should be interesting.

Easy easy man. Leave yerself about an 1" on inside of replacement piece. Remove all the rust. Then spray with some of that weld able primer. Few tack welds a lil bit of hammer work to get it lines up and then plenty of bondo. My first ride was an 87 bought when 15 spent 14 months buying parts. Completely reworked the body and got it primed then my paint my painter moved back to Europe. I'm no body man myself but we didn't fully weld the new pieces in just tack them every few inches then grinder welds down. Bondo with fibreglass sanded for days. And done.

Oh and save that trans for me!! Need the pedal assembly too. Lol yours a 4.3 vortec??

aluthman
03-18-2015, 02:38 PM
Easy easy man. Leave yerself about an 1" on inside of replacement piece. Remove all the rust. Then spray with some of that weld able primer. Few tack welds a lil bit of hammer work to get it lines up and then plenty of bondo. My first ride was an 87 bought when 15 spent 14 months buying parts. Completely reworked the body and got it primed then my paint my painter moved back to Europe. I'm no body man myself but we didn't fully weld the new pieces in just tack them every few inches then grinder welds down. Bondo with fibreglass sanded for days. And done.

Oh and save that trans for me!! Need the pedal assembly too. Lol yours a 4.3 vortec??

I plan on welding the panel in all the way around after putting lots of tacks on it. Then I'll grind down the welds smooth and use as little filler as possible to get everything flat and smooth. My dad has done bodywork his entire life and has passed on to me his hatred for excessive amounts of body filler lol. I just have the lowly little 2.2L 4 cyl. The thought of throwing a small turbo on it has crossed my mind lol. I need to get it in shape first though, since it has not been treated very well over the last few years.

canadianA4B7
03-18-2015, 04:15 PM
I plan on welding the panel in all the way around after putting lots of tacks on it. Then I'll grind down the welds smooth and use as little filler as possible to get everything flat and smooth. My dad has done bodywork his entire life and has passed on to me his hatred for excessive amounts of body filler lol. I just have the lowly little 2.2L 4 cyl. The thought of throwing a small turbo on it has crossed my mind lol. I need to get it in shape first though, since it has not been treated very well over the last few years.

I agree with the welds just if its not gonna be show stopper..... Well what's the point. Structurally you just want her to be safe and look decent. There rust magnets though. Dads 2003 has been repaired rockers 2x now there just got the pieces around the work just continues to disappear. I've heard of ppl putting tiny turbos in them but why!!! Lol as jake said mmmmmmm ls swap! My first one had a little a V6 2.8l or something. Honestly if I still had that little motor it wud have been turbo charged long ago. I had a 100l tank in that truck and a 700r4 trans used to fill up once ever 12-14 days! Was a great truck served me well.

canadianA4B7
03-19-2015, 08:04 AM
quoted this morning

"I make a kit to adapt the LS engine to the Audi transmission. it has the adapter plate, custom flywheel, clutch, starter, and bolts. The kit is $1595 plus $75 shipping." from Eric martin at kitcarshassis.com

not too bad. being what you get. ive inquired as to what the clutch is from or rated for aswell. I wouldn't be doing a crazy LS1 as I think where the car is at now for power is plenty. the LS would obviously produce more stock and plenty with mild cam and valvesprings. Hummmmm ive got a guy locally who is interested in buying my motor, clutch and turbo setup right now. if he would give me enough id have plenty of budget for the swap.

ericpaulyoung
03-19-2015, 08:15 AM
Good price!

EPY

p0isin
03-19-2015, 08:37 AM
This build thread has taken an interesting turn. LS swap would be cool to see.

canadianA4B7
03-19-2015, 10:19 AM
im not counting it out of the equation right now. the Camaro is mine so once I got and pick it up the motor can be removed and that can start.

quote has changed slightly as they would rather me keep my RS4 pressure plate, flywheel and clutch disc (which I would likely change to something else if its got any wear) and the price minus there clutch set up as they figure its too large and mine will likely be just capable enough for the V8 is $1120 plus shipping cost. they require my clutch and parts plus bell housing ot dimensions and measurements from me just to make sure things will work and line up properly.

I hope to get in touch with GURUMAN from the B5 section and pick his brain. seems the trans may need to move back a tiny but or if I can modify things enough use LS4 accessories possibly keep trans where it is. ohhh wow this could get interesting.

need to sell sell sell all my extra parts laying around and find someone to give me a lil sponsor help (mostly just stickers cuz the always add 1000HP/Sq inch) and then this can all come together.

Jake@JHM
03-19-2015, 11:11 AM
Use the slimmer LS accessories and keep the drivetrain where it is at. It is much easier to make room in the bay than make a quattro system to work in a new location LOL.

canadianA4B7
03-19-2015, 12:41 PM
Use the slimmer LS accessories and keep the drivetrain where it is at. It is much easier to make room in the bay than make a quattro system to work in a new location LOL.

ive been reading, LS4 accessories seem to be the best solution, custom motor mounts, id like to use the solid aluminum one I currently own but I think ill need to obviously mount the LS a bit lower so custom mounts are going to be made. only thing it looks like I will lose would be AC. which would suck in an only summer driven car. im assuming custom piping might do the trick but locations and such things will need to be sorted out as things move along. keeping the compressor might be tight to. anything in there will be tight other then the 2.0T.

it seems jakes on board for HP via Stickers already.... maybe they throw in a light weight T Shirt for me to shave 1000 lbs of weight off the car. or suggest I only use half the bolts needed.

Jake@JHM
03-19-2015, 01:59 PM
ive been reading, LS4 accessories seem to be the best solution, custom motor mounts, id like to use the solid aluminum one I currently own but I think ill need to obviously mount the LS a bit lower so custom mounts are going to be made. only thing it looks like I will lose would be AC. which would suck in an only summer driven car. im assuming custom piping might do the trick but locations and such things will need to be sorted out as things move along. keeping the compressor might be tight to. anything in there will be tight other then the 2.0T.

it seems jakes on board for HP via Stickers already.... maybe they throw in a light weight T Shirt for me to shave 1000 lbs of weight off the car. or suggest I only use half the bolts needed.

Haha! I am sure you can work the AC compressor down low or up top somewhere. The heater is the most important part because luckily you can roll down the windows in he summer.

This will be a beast of a project [up]

canadianA4B7
03-20-2015, 02:02 PM
Haha! I am sure you can work the AC compressor down low or up top somewhere. The heater is the most important part because luckily you can roll down the windows in he summer.

This will be a beast of a project [up]

I have no need for heat I only need AC im Canadian were we designed for cold weather not hot. My research continues. But number one issue will be accessories on the front of motor. May need to buy a "kit" that relocates everything. Something like the fiero guys are doing. Few custom made brackets and things shud do it. I'll get more done when I pick up the ls1. I'd like to find a plastic block too that wud help. Oh ya and a buyer for the 2.0T I don't think I'll do the swap if I still have the 2.0T engine in my possession. Just too many engines not enough cars for that.

canadianA4B7
03-29-2015, 08:51 AM
can anyone give me a measurement from the transmission to the rad? either with the fans on (preferred) or without the fans installed. ive been looking into the shortest possible accessory setup for the LS1 motor.

canadianA4B7
04-20-2015, 06:51 AM
so no go on the LS swap. I just cannot see it fitting with all the length the trans would have to move back so far that complete custom front axles would be needed and I don't think my wallet is deep enough for the swap.

on another note. I will be keeping a 2.0 under the hood. ill be throwing in slimjokers motor complete redone. mostly new goodies top to bottom. 2863 once I get a new CHRA for it. more to come. im shitty at updating here so don't expect much.