PDA

View Full Version : Need help on replacing Camshaft seal and Crankshaft seal!!



10kredline
04-26-2013, 05:35 PM
My car, aeb 1.8t manual. Im about to do my timing belt and was wondering if i need a special tool to replace the camshaft seal and crank shaft seal. I know the camshaft seal is behind the cam position sensor, do i need a locking tool to remove it? Also for the crankshaft seal? I have some diy links and videos to do the timing belt but none has instructions on these seals. I did the search already, couldn't find it besides for the 2.8.

Poopie
04-26-2013, 05:36 PM
You can use a pick or a screw in a self tapping screw and yank them out with pliers.

10kredline
04-26-2013, 05:42 PM
So it just slides right out, without unbolting anything? What about the crankshaft seal, do i have to unbolt the pulley?

10kredline
04-26-2013, 05:47 PM
Ok, i got, thanks, didnt realize how easy it is.

Seerlah
04-26-2013, 05:51 PM
When I replace my cam shaft seal I took off the valve cover, held the cam with a vice grip on the rough cast section, and counteracted that when removing my cam window so the cam would not move. Same thing when placing it back on. I then loosened the front cam hold down bracket thing, and all the ones leading back to be able to have the cam lift up a bit to remove and place back in the seal. But to tell you the truth, not sure if that is exactly necessary [edit: Poopie just confirmed it isn't]. But that is what I did. The cam bolts have a low torque of like 7 ft/lbs, so I just went with the feeler method when torquing those back down. The cam window bolt was like 25 ft/lbs. You should look them up, though.

I did my front seal when I was building my engine. But that one you will need a new crank bolt. Torquing this thing back down is silly, and removing it is another task on it's own. You need to find your own technique. My suggestion is to not even replace these if they are not leaking. But you need to remove the crank bolt, crank gear, little housing on front, then the seal is rather easy from there. But be sure you get the correct size. Most places have the wrong size listed on their website. You need a 35x48x10 versus the 32x47x10 most places will sell you. You will also need to use some type of sealant on the front housing when placing it back. I used the Victor Reinz sealant that is used for the 06A oil pan.

sa_seahawker
04-26-2013, 06:31 PM
I've seen people screw in a small self tapping screw into the seal to use as a grab point for a pair of pliers.

10kredline
04-27-2013, 01:57 AM
When I replace my cam shaft seal I took off the valve cover, held the cam with a vice grip on the rough cast section, and counteracted that when removing my cam window so the cam would not move. Same thing when placing it back on. I then loosened the front cam hold down bracket thing, and all the ones leading back to be able to have the cam lift up a bit to remove and place back in the seal. But to tell you the truth, not sure if that is exactly necessary [edit: Poopie just confirmed it isn't]. But that is what I did. The cam bolts have a low torque of like 7 ft/lbs, so I just went with the feeler method when torquing those back down. The cam window bolt was like 25 ft/lbs. You should look them up, though.

I did my front seal when I was building my engine. But that one you will need a new crank bolt. Torquing this thing back down is silly, and removing it is another task on it's own. You need to find your own technique. My suggestion is to not even replace these if they are not leaking. But you need to remove the crank bolt, crank gear, little housing on front, then the seal is rather easy from there. But be sure you get the correct size. Most places have the wrong size listed on their website. You need a 35x48x10 versus the 32x47x10 most places will sell you. You will also need to use some type of sealant on the front housing when placing it back. I used the Victor Reinz sealant that is used for the 06A oil pan.

I know it's not necessary to replace these seals since it's not leaking but I just hit 200k and wanted the whole shebang. I figured that the crankshaft seal would be harder since the crank gear is seized to the shaft and like you said, it's a pain in the ass to remove the bolt. I'm also limited on tools as I do not have an impact gun but rather a breaker bar. I'll just stick with what everyone says, if it's not leaking, leave it alone.

Seerlah
04-27-2013, 03:47 AM
Only reason I did my crank seal is because it was necessary when I built my engine. Only reason I replaced my cam seal was because I had to when I swapped parts from one head to another I am using. Thought I could get away without replacing them, but was wrong. I would have not replaced it if it weren't leaking. The intake cam was the only one that did not seal when I swapped parts, so that was the only one I replaced.

jacobsen
03-04-2014, 05:15 PM
Does the B6 use the 32x47x10 kaco seal? I've got a 4x10 on my intake came and it's leaking.