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View Full Version : First time wrenching and this is what I find. (VCG, Seals, Plugs, etc.)



dohboi
04-17-2013, 12:47 AM
So I'm starting the gasket replacement since ECSs' customer service is pretty good so far with sending me supposedly better fitting PCV hoses. So I just thought I'd share with you what I found when I started....

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8103/8656525659_303e69f21e_c.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8110/8656525687_5cd10e77d9_c.jpg

Not bad for cell phone pics heh?? [>_>]

The previous owner either should never work on cars again, or he got swindled by that random person who does a drive-by advertisement of his services in the parking lot. [headbang] I'm no veteran at wrenching; In fact, this is the first car I've began wrenching all on my own, but that's a really bad job (I'd like to say I've done stuff with my friend, but in reality its just me running him tools while he's under the car...). I also have a ridiculous VCG leak on Bank 2 (I'm hoping that is it and its not a bad head gasket [confused]) because I pulled a spark plug wire and there was a bit of oil in there... *le sigh*

AND there's a TON of gasket maker on that little "V" shaped crevice at the back on Bank 1 that I can't get all out. [evilmad]

Hopefully the amount of gasket maker isn't as bad on Bank 2, and that's probably is what's causing the leak...

sa_seahawker
04-17-2013, 04:43 AM
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i267/sa_seahawker/35jc99_zps4648f0fd.jpg

Kromodus
04-17-2013, 06:19 AM
Holy gasket maker. Let's hope that this was the only sloppy work that this person performed on your car. As long as you have everything apart you should plan to replace the CCT gasket and half-moon as well. It's really not that difficult as long as you have the $10 CCT compression tool and some long needle nose pliers. Some angled needle nose pliers would definitely help as well. A small mirror. Lots of Q-tips. Lots of patience. [;)]

Oh, and the oil on the spark plug/boot: That is common. I'm actually surprised that yours weren't submerged. I'm confident that once you install your real gaskets this problem will be gone. [up]

MooseWhip
04-17-2013, 06:29 AM
Yup submerged plugs in oil is what I had, did the valve cover gasket, no more oil. Mine was actually so bad it started causing the plugs to misfire.

U_know_me
04-17-2013, 06:31 AM
Oh, and the oil on the spark plug/boot: That is common. I'm actually surprised that yours weren't submerged. I'm confident that once you install your real gaskets this problem will be gone. [up]

As Kromodus said, I highly doubt that oil on the plug would indicate a head gasket issue, you might run into that %5 of the time. All that happens is that the oil in the valve cover/head leaks down onto the plug when you have a bad valve cover/ plug gasket. Have fun getting all that RTB off, razor blades, long finger nails and a good scraper are in your future.

walky_talky20
04-17-2013, 06:51 AM
Wow. That's nasty. I often wonder if there is some domestic procedure that calls for "massive amounts of bright colored goo, or she won't seal". 'MERICA!

Anyway, cleaning out the plug holes is pretty easy. You just remove the spark plug and spray down the tube with carb or brake cleaner. Just chase the oil into the cylinder. Clean off your plugs (or repalce), clean off your wires and reinstall. Car will let out a puff 'o smoke on first startup from the oil, but nothing major. Obviously if the tubes are completely full, you want to try and get some of that out of there before removing the spark plug.

dohboi
04-17-2013, 09:25 AM
Oh, and the oil on the spark plug/boot: That is common. I'm actually surprised that yours weren't submerged. I'm confident that once you install your real gaskets this problem will be gone. [up]

I'm also hoping that was the only sloppy work that they've performed. I was exaggerating a little when I said a bit. lol Although I didn't peek in the other two, There was a ton of oil in the first spark plug bay I opened. I was honestly too scared to look in the other two at that time, and went straight into the house and frantically search how to detect a bad head gasket. Scared me half to death [=(] I got that ECS kit for most of the plugs and seals so I def plan to do all of those as well while I have the cover off. My CCT was $30. [:(]


Yup submerged plugs in oil is what I had, did the valve cover gasket, no more oil. Mine was actually so bad it started causing the plugs to misfire.

How do you detect a misfire besides the lack of power? I'm assuming with all these leaks and a really clogged PCV, I never really felt what "power" is supposed to be.


Have fun getting all that RTB off, razor blades, long finger nails and a good scraper are in your future.

Planning on sanding down my fingernails scraping all that of later today! [up]


Wow. That's nasty. I often wonder if there is some domestic procedure that calls for "massive amounts of bright colored goo, or she won't seal". 'MERICA!

Anyway, cleaning out the plug holes is pretty easy. You just remove the spark plug and spray down the tube with carb or brake cleaner. Just chase the oil into the cylinder. Clean off your plugs (or repalce), clean off your wires and reinstall. Car will let out a puff 'o smoke on first startup from the oil, but nothing major. Obviously if the tubes are completely full, you want to try and get some of that out of there before removing the spark plug.

LOL I wonder that as well. And thanks for the tip! I was wondering what was the best way I should tackle that cleanup. [up] BTW Walky, I always see you in 70% of the posts I've been researching on what I should do and how I should do it. Thanks for being so active. [hail]

Does anybody have any advice on removing Bank 2? Do I have to remove anything else besides the expansion tank and whatever is bolted onto the cover to make it easier?

Mad Cow
04-17-2013, 09:47 AM
On the plus side your heads look really clean inside so at least they kept up with oil changes.

Kromodus
04-17-2013, 01:23 PM
Does anybody have any advice on removing Bank 2? Do I have to remove anything else besides the expansion tank and whatever is bolted onto the cover to make it easier?

Just the expansion tank, and you just need to unbolt it, disconnect the harness from the sensor and move the tank aside.

I do have some tips for you when you do the CCT. If you won't be removing the intake cams, there is no real reason to put the engine into TDC. However, if you choose to do it anyway the easiest method by far is to simply lift a single wheel about an inch off the ground to give you only enough clearance to spin the tire in the forward rolling direction. Put your gearbox into 4th or 5th to make it easy to turn (this will also very slowly turn the engine). I should mention that this only works if you have a manual gearbox (but I'm sure you know that). If you have an auto you'll need to turn the crank via the crank bolt. Again, placing the engine into TDC is not necessary. Here is another tip. Once you have the CCT compressed and unbolted (remember there are 4 bolts), you can give yourself extra wiggle room by using a corrugated strip of cardboard and channel locks to grip the intake cam (on the rough casting of course). If you twist the cam slightly counter-clockwise it will give you more chain slack on the top and automatically push the CCT up even farther. This will give you plenty of room to remove the gasket and half-moon. Once you have the new gaskets seated (by being able to insert all three outer bolts) then twist the cam clockwise to effectively transfer the slack to the bottom of the CCT. This will also lower the CCT and allow you to better seat it. Once you have all the bolts hand tight and have double-checked that the gaskets are seated, decompress the CCT and remove the tool. Next slowly twist the intake cam once again counter-clockwise to try and "center" the slack between the top and bottom of the chain guides (this is best done with the compression tool already removed). Then tighten the CCT bolts to 10nm (which is not a lot) to complete the CCT gasket/half-moon task. I found that twisting the intake cams with channel locks made the whole process less tedious. Good luck! [up]

Cgoon009
04-17-2013, 01:51 PM
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8103/8656525659_303e69f21e_c.jpg


Lol [o_o] Holy crap thats messed up!

walky_talky20
04-17-2013, 02:09 PM
Just the expansion tank, and you just need to unbolt it, disconnect the harness from the sensor and move the tank aside.

I do have some tips for you when you do the CCT. If you won't be removing the intake cams, there is no real reason to put the engine into TDC. However, if you choose to do it anyway the easiest method by far is to simply lift a single wheel about an inch off the ground to give you only enough clearance to spin the tire in the forward rolling direction. Put your gearbox into 4th or 5th to make it easy to turn (this will also very slowly turn the engine). I should mention that this only works if you have a manual gearbox (but I'm sure you know that). If you have an auto you'll need to turn the crank via the crank bolt. Again, placing the engine into TDC is not necessary. Here is another tip. Once you have the CCT compressed and unbolted (remember there are 4 bolts), you can give yourself extra wiggle room by using a corrugated strip of cardboard and channel locks to grip the intake cam (on the rough casting of course). If you twist the cam slightly counter-clockwise it will give you more chain slack on the top and automatically push the CCT up even farther. This will give you plenty of room to remove the gasket and half-moon. Once you have the new gaskets seated (by being able to insert all three outer bolts) then twist the cam clockwise to effectively transfer the slack to the bottom of the CCT. This will also lower the CCT and allow you to better seat it. Once you have all the bolts hand tight and have double-checked that the gaskets are seated, decompress the CCT and remove the tool. Next slowly twist the intake cam once again counter-clockwise to try and "center" the slack between the top and bottom of the chain guides (this is best done with the compression tool already removed). Then tighten the CCT bolts to 10nm (which is not a lot) to complete the CCT gasket/half-moon task. I found that twisting the intake cams with channel locks made the whole process less tedious. Good luck! [up]

^Everything this guy said. All of it.

dohboi
04-17-2013, 09:18 PM
Good luck! [up]

Thanks, I'll be taking my laptop to the garage with me when I'm doing this repair now.


On the plus side your heads look really clean inside so at least they kept up with oil changes.

I was expecting sludge like crazy. I was surprised!


Lol [o_o] Holy crap thats messed up!

Yes, yes it is. hahaha

redline380
04-17-2013, 09:37 PM
yeah despite the overuse of rtv, that head/valve cover is quite clean. im guessing original owner either was tired of leaky gaskets and overdid it with rtv, or he had a tube (or at least two by the looks of it) laying around and didnt want to waste money on gaskets. i dont really think running rtv instead of valve cover gaskets would do any harm. it may be better in fact. except for the fact he overdid it here and some of it may have broken off inside the valve cover and got into the oil

dohboi
04-18-2013, 01:05 PM
yeah despite the overuse of rtv, that head/valve cover is quite clean. im guessing original owner either was tired of leaky gaskets and overdid it with rtv, or he had a tube (or at least two by the looks of it) laying around and didnt want to waste money on gaskets. i dont really think running rtv instead of valve cover gaskets would do any harm. it may be better in fact. except for the fact he overdid it here and some of it may have broken off inside the valve cover and got into the oil

I hope some didn't. And I think the gap is big enough that you would need to use a gasket? There's bound to be overuse if the gap is that big.

V A4 Life
04-24-2013, 06:06 PM
I have a Srad race bike that had yamabond like this on all the covers when I got it. Last year I had a RED OIL LIGHT of death and shut down, upon removal of the oil pan and pick up tube I found the neck of the tube plugged with 3" to 6" snakes of yamabond that broke off the inside of the srator and clutch cases. The oil pan is no rookie job but keep an eye out for the RED OIL CAN light, it means stop NOW.... RIGHT NOW!!!

With how clean your head looks if it does come on its surely floating red gasket clogging your pick-up screen. I have also heard of clean looking cars with carbon filled pick-up tubes too. FINE SCREEN and HARD CARBON. Good luck with the car and keep a coilpack in the trunk.