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View Full Version : Me and low mile 1997 1.8T Quattro



indiana
02-24-2013, 05:23 PM
Hi I like driving used car bargains, I have almost bought 2 different A8's in the past decade but was scarred off by all the tech.
I racked up 75,000 miles on a Caddi SLS I bought with 65k, replaced with Ford Escape that my wife wanted.

So I went shopping.... last summer I found this 1997 one-owner A4 with 79,000 miles.
I paid about a grand more than the books said it was worth, but where else will you find a one-owner by the book maintained A4 with narry a dent or scratch. The only malady was a burnt out cluster lamp and intermittent cruise control issue...
... on that note where do I look... to fix the cruise.

I dumped the oil when I got it put some fresh in ran it for 800 miles and dumped again and went to synthetic... PO showed me letter Audi sent him about using Syth (which he hadn't been doing).

Seems the Syth (Castrol 10w-30) got some leaks started. I replaced the oil cooler doughnut, but I was still getting a drip (much less) and still a wiff of oil burning now and then.

Got under it today and see where there is a stain on a heat shield right under the passenger side rear of the valve cover gasket union... the gasket looks like it is seeping all along the back, passenger side. So I'm on that!!!

The pan gasket also looks like it might be seeping... I guess cross member will need to come down? Does this cause alignment issues? Turbo feed and return line unions are dry... turbo area is very very clean.
Anyway I am handy... I have rebuilt the following 13b Mazda Rotary Engine, MGB transmission, and several lawnmowers, in addition to owning a couple Volvo 240's the Cadillac mentioned, and a 1995 Ford Ranger with 250k.

My wife is puzzled that my current daily driver is the oldest car of the last 4 cars I have had as daily drivers. I like the 5speed and the AWD.... she likes the economy and the fact I am happy and won't be shopping for cars for a while. I calculate that if I get 3 years without needing a clutch, my cost to drive (sans gas) will be less than $1000 a year.... I like to keep it down to $2200 a year...

BTW PO had done a lot to the car about what I paid him was spent on it since 2010... T Belt, Brakes, Air Mod sensor, starter, a front spring BROKE! so he had both replaced and bushings, 1 year old tires, and and both front axeles and man tran oil change.
Should I do the REAR dif??? Pitfalls? His reason for selling he has a 2005 S4 (I have dibs on) and he bought a 2012 BMW 5series.