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AnotherMonday
02-24-2013, 04:47 PM
Hey guys, longtime lurker here.

I like the feedback and banter you guys have, so I figured to finally make an account and 'officially' post.

Proud owner of a '99 B5 A4 2.8L 5-spd, Volcano Black Mica. I've had her for almost 2 years, and we've have been through some heartaches and happiness, the majority self-inflicted due to ignorance. BUT, I'm pressed to do better, especially as it's getting more expensive to cover costs.

That being said, I'm almost a complete noob in wrenching, but I'm up for a challenge, especially if it'll save cash. As a freelance photographer and teacher, the funds aren't unlimited and, from what I hear and read, these aren't cheap vehicles to maintain. But it's all good. I'm in it for the long-run...

Anyway, I had a small list of questions:

1) I swapped out spark plugs today and on first crank, it sounded slightly rough, then evened out. Is this normal?

2) Bent my one of my rear passenger control arms. Should I just replace them with used parts or buy new? And should I do the entire rear or just the damaged side?

Seerlah
02-24-2013, 05:05 PM
Welcome!

Were the plugs gapped properly and are things running fine now? As for the rear arm, just replace it with a used one. Check the classified section on fourtitude to find someone parting their car and make an offer.

GOODBYNAAIR
02-24-2013, 05:09 PM
what he said ^^ and welcome [up] pics if you got them.

AnotherMonday
02-24-2013, 05:27 PM
It seems to be running similarly as before, with a bit more pep. *shrug*

From what I've read and was told, the NGK's come pre-gapped, but I checked anyway. What I saw ranged from .35-.40
But the real concern is a slight fluttering sound from the engine under load/accceration...

AnotherMonday
02-24-2013, 05:40 PM
what he said ^^ and welcome [up] pics if you got them.



Gotcha. Will post photos tomorrow. Thanks for the feedback!

Corrado_Guy
02-24-2013, 06:19 PM
1) Usually it should start normally depending on whether you put the right plugs in or took really bad ones out. According to the Internet you have a AHA code motor and this takes NGK BKR6EKUB which should be pre-gapped from the box. I use NGK BKR7E plugs on my 1.8T motor which I typically change every 4,000 - 5,000 Kms and every plug I have taken out of the box (and I have taken a lot of them out of the box) have always been at .032" gap so they are typically very consistent. The important thing is to use the proper plug for the car and if you are not sure then use what the factory recommends. The factory spend a lot of time analyzing/designing plugs that offer decent performance over a longer life (typically at least 2 years) so it is always a good bet use them if you are not sure. It is actually hard to find a better plug than the factory for most applications but it is really easy to choose the wrong one. Making sure the plugs are the correct ones for the application is very important but also check the entire intake system for leaks between the MAF and the throttle body because this will change how the motor runs. Do you have a check engine light on? Are you using the factory oil filter & proper grade of oil and does it have a clean air filter? It can be hard to track down rough running issues but making sure the tune-up parts are good and there are no intake leaks is a good start.

2) Personally I always go new on suspension and driveline parts because you have a better idea of what you are getting. Cost is always a factor though so I start by checking what it is worth new then you have a good idea what to pay for used. Some wreckers/dismantlers actually change more than new for some stuff so arm yourself with a price before you get taken. If you end up buying used just make sure the bushing is good if equipped and that it is not bent or damaged in some way. Depending on how you bent that control arm you may also want to check the wheel bearing and make sure it is not damaged. Wheel bearings aren't really tough when you bump them on the side so if you hear it starting to make noise or you can wiggle the hub/wheel a bit it may need to be changed.

If you can change a flat tire on your car you can do most of the maintenance and regular repairs on the car yourself. The more work you do means the more tools you can buy and it doesn't take long to come out ahead and save money on each repair. It also allows you to know the car so if something broke you wouldn't be there staring at a dead car without knowing what to do. Most of this stuff is not actually all that hard, replacing things is really just a sequence of removing things followed by a sequence of putting them back on. Diagnosing the problem is where the real skill comes in and over time with experience and help from forums such as this you can do almost anything if you have the tools and skills for it. I have no air tools for cars nor a press and I have done engine rebuilds, wheel bearings, brakes, clutches, transmission rebuilds, engine swaps, timing belts, and so on and so on with only hand tools.

Make sure you have a good jack and jack stands and you never get under the car without it being rock stable and you should never have a problem. Get a decent set of wrenches 9mm - 19mm covers most things and the same for sockets. I would also get a set of decent Allen key sockets as well as a Torx socket set and then some screw drivers and you have a good start. Add pliers and wire cutters and simple things like that and just add to the collection for each repair you are missing tools for. Just research as much as you can and post well thought out questions and you would be amazed at the replies you get.

indiana
02-24-2013, 06:36 PM
Ha... I just "became official" today 2-24-13), and I am also a freelance photographer... although I am an experienced wrencher... although this is my first Audi and only second AWD vehicle. BTW my first new car was a 1989 VW Golf that was the worst car I ever owned..... that's another thread.

coolgraymemo
02-24-2013, 06:51 PM
Hello Hello.

AnotherMonday
02-24-2013, 07:25 PM
@ Corradoguy Spot on with the spark plug ID. The air filter is clean, the CEL is ever-present, and the proper oil is used. I do need to pull codes, though. That sound is definitely disheartening and would hate for it to be detonation... Last thing I need is a hole in a piston. Should be changing to a Bosch oil filter this week. I've cleaned the MAF within the last few 5k miles. And tire changing is no match for me! [:D] Great advice about pricing the used parts, too. Didn't think of that. Definitely taking notes from you guys.

AnotherMonday
02-24-2013, 07:28 PM
..

AnotherMonday
02-24-2013, 07:42 PM
Ha... I just "became official" today 2-24-13), and I am also a freelance photographer... although I am an experienced wrencher... although this is my first Audi and only second AWD vehicle. BTW my first new car was a 1989 VW Golf that was the worst car I ever owned..... that's another thread.

Shoot me a PM link to your work!

Hello Hello.

'Sup.

AnotherMonday
02-25-2013, 03:11 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/26/rata7a2a.jpg

"This is my car, the beloved, whom I have approved." Audi 2:8

AnotherMonday
02-27-2013, 08:45 PM
So I went out and bought a decent 80pc or whatever tool kit, a torque wrench, and a bunch of other goodies. Changed the oil, had to MacGuyver a tool to get the oil filter off (forgot to buy filter wrench), and re-tightened the NGKs. The misfires that I had previously lessened but are still there. I checked the gapping on the plugs but didn't see anything out of range (0.35-0.42). Is there something I'm missing? There was oil on some of the plugs when initially changed them, but when I went to re-tighten and check gaps, they were dry. Do I need to clear codes to reset something or did I miss a step?

Seerlah
02-27-2013, 08:54 PM
If you scan with Vag Com it will tell you which cylinder(s) is misfiring. That is a very stern place to start diagnosing.

Duds
02-27-2013, 09:44 PM
If ever a filter doesn't come off and you don't have a filter wrench on hand a quick screwdriver through the side always works.

AnotherMonday
02-27-2013, 09:49 PM
If you scan with Vag Com it will tell you which cylinder(s) is misfiring. That is a very stern place to start diagnosing.

Noted.


If ever a filter doesn't come off and you don't have a filter wrench on hand a quick screwdriver through the side always works.

A neighbor pointed that out to me. It definitely beat the alternative of finding a way to Autozone with a down vehicle.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

AnotherMonday
03-04-2013, 10:36 AM
Currently burning through and breaking drill bits trying to get these rivets off this old window regulator... Gotta be a more efficient way...