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maldony
02-18-2013, 05:36 PM
What's going on guys, I was drivi the other day and a cel came on, turns out to be code p0011. As I've looked into it on here I've seen that it isn't the most uncommon code. It comes up as variable timing when I looked online with possible causes as the cam chain adjuster. However symptoms of this don't match my car up. I have no rattle from an off t belt or chain. I heard it could possibly be bad oil but I'm not sure how much truth there is to that either as my oil quality isn't poor and the level is fine. Anyone else have any ideas or possible causes in their head?

Corrado_Guy
02-18-2013, 05:49 PM
I know I will probably sound like a dick but what help do you really expect when you don't even state the year or motor of the car? Do yourself a favour, buy something like VCDS which will give you the factory code with an actual description.

builditup
02-18-2013, 05:50 PM
More info on the car will help diagnose. [:)]

maldony
02-18-2013, 05:53 PM
Sorry I'm half asleep and on my way to bed lol I have a 3am shift. And it's a 2001 awm 1.8t

walky_talky20
02-18-2013, 06:11 PM
First thing to check is oil and oil pressure. Make sure you are running the proper 5W-40 synthetic oil. Then check oil pressure. If oil pressure checks out good, and the mechanical timing is correct (belt and chain), then you most likely need to replace the VVT chain tensioner/adjuster. The adjuster is somewhat expensive.

The VVT operation is not actually critical to the engine operation. As long as everything else is in good order, there isn't any reason you couldn't drive the car with that fault for some time. You can actually just unplug the VVT and forget about it. No harm other than the constant Check Engine Light.

98A4TurboAWD
02-18-2013, 06:18 PM
First thing to check is oil and oil pressure. Make sure you are running the proper 5W-40 synthetic oil. Then check oil pressure. If oil pressure checks out good, and the mechanical timing is correct (belt and chain), then you most likely need to replace the VVT chain tensioner/adjuster. The adjuster is somewhat expensive.

The VVT operation is not actually critical to the engine operation. As long as everything else is in good order, there isn't any reason you couldn't drive the car with that fault for some time. You can actually just unplug the VVT and forget about it. No harm other than the constant Check Engine Light.

Don't mean to derail, but where in the heck do you guys find 5w40 (Synthetic)? I went to Meijer, Wal Mart, and Advance Auto looking for either 0w or 5w and no stores had it in synthetic. Meijer had a 5w40 regular motor oil but I didn't want it.

I ended up getting the Quaker State fully synthetic at Advance in the 10w40. I have never run a 10w. Just about every car I ever had took 5w30. Would you rather run 5w30 or 10w40 in this car if you had to choose?

maldony
02-18-2013, 06:31 PM
First thing to check is oil and oil pressure. Make sure you are running the proper 5W-40 synthetic oil. Then check oil pressure. If oil pressure checks out good, and the mechanical timing is correct (belt and chain), then you most likely need to replace the VVT chain tensioner/adjuster. The adjuster is somewhat expensive.

The VVT operation is not actually critical to the engine operation. As long as everything else is in good order, there isn't any reason you couldn't drive the car with that fault for some time. You can actually just unplug the VVT and forget about it. No harm other than the constant Check Engine Light.

Awesome, thanks for this post it's very helpful to a new guy just trying to learn. Ill be checking the oil again in the morning to see if I missed something and after that skipping class to figure out if it's the tensioner that needs to be redone lol

maldony
02-18-2013, 06:39 PM
Also not sure if this helps diagnose at all or if it's typical Audi bullshit but the light comes and goes throughout the day

Seerlah
02-18-2013, 07:04 PM
Don't mean to derail, but where in the heck do you guys find 5w40 (Synthetic)? I went to Meijer, Wal Mart, and Advance Auto looking for either 0w or 5w and no stores had it in synthetic. Meijer had a 5w40 regular motor oil but I didn't want it.

I ended up getting the Quaker State fully synthetic at Advance in the 10w40. I have never run a 10w. Just about every car I ever had took 5w30. Would you rather run 5w30 or 10w40 in this car if you had to choose?

Not quite sure you are looking hard enough. I am sure your eyes went right past multiple ones sitting on the shelves. I personally run Shell Rotella T6 (5w40).

98A4TurboAWD
02-18-2013, 07:12 PM
Not quite sure you are looking hard enough. I am sure your eyes went right past multiple ones sitting on the shelves. I personally run Shell Rotella T6 (5w40).

lol, come on man. You sound silly assuming something like that.

On the contrary, I am positive it was not at wal mart and meijer, and at the Advance I was talking with the manager and in not having the 5w he went into the computer and pulled up a chart which showed which weights were acceptable in certain climates on this car. For the temperature here in MI, the 10w40 was listed as acceptable so I went with it.

Seerlah
02-18-2013, 07:26 PM
That is too thick IMO for winter temps that goes below freezing (just an opinion). I used to run 0w30 in the winter and 5w40 in the summer. Now I am going to run 5w40 all year round.