mec
02-17-2013, 05:04 PM
****This unit is not for sale on the STE website yet, but you can e-mail "[email protected]" to place a pre-order.****
Tools you will need:
Small flathead
T30 with 3/8 socket wrench
Box opener or small blade
8mm socket
T25 screwdriver
16mm socket
Supplies you will need:
3-4 ft vacuum line - http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=8
3mm vacuum line pinch clamps or similar. - http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?item=995&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.boostcontr oller.com%2Findex.php%3Fpage%3D1%26category%3D105.
This tutorial covers the install for a PPD install when you want to use the 44psi boost sensor that is built into the PPD. If you are not planning on using the 44psi boost sensor and just want the gauge for the other features it has, then skip all the steps that relate to installing the vacuum line. You will not need to do this since the PPD will also work with the stock boost sensor.
Step 1: Open your package to reveal its contents. 1 PPD, 1 green harness, 1 blue harness.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/enyzevyt.jpg
Step 2: Find the driver's side wiper blade, use a small flathead to remove the black cap that covers the anchor point of the wiper arm. You may want to lay down a strip of tape where your wiper blade is positioned currently because we will be removing it. Remove the nut using a 16mm socket. Pull back wiper arm and remove assembly.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/y8yjyvy8.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/u9ejydug.jpg
Step 3: below the wiper arm is a black box. This is your Ecu housing. We will be removing it by taking out the three t30 screws in the front and two t30's in the rear in each corner. Go ahead and remove them. Pull the Ecu housing cover by pulling it toward you and up. Be gentle. Chances are you don't have those yellow wires there, don't worry that is only for bixenon retrofits.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/4u2e7y6u.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/ny2u8eva.jpg
Step 4: Using your knife tool, cut a small hole into the large rubber grommet/sock that connects the engine wiring to the Ecu. We will be routing the vacuum line through this hole. Pull most of the hose through into the Ecu. Tie the 16mm socket onto the end of the vacuum hose that is in the Ecu housing. This will serve as a weight. Maneuver the hose through the rear side of the Ecu housing closest that is closest to the fender. You should be able to push it in easily and it will end up caught in the drivers kick panel. We will get there.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/vugymyde.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/enyruvyr.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/a9a7y7ev.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/aguga3a6.jpg
Step 5: Open the driver's door and using your Audi key or a flat headed screw driver pry off the fuse box cover located to the left of the steering wheel.
Here you will find a small 8mm screw, remove it. There are two more in each corner of the kick panel on the underside. Push your seat back and get under the steering wheel to find them. With the three screws removed the kick panel should pull out toward the seat, and once the clips are out of the dash it will be easy to lay down. Pull the white connector from the back of the kick panel by opening it's white legs and pulling it back. Remove the obd-II connector by pushing in all three tabs and pulling back. Now you can remove your kick panel and set it on a soft surface. Go back under the steering wheel and find your socket and vacuum line, pull it down so you have access to it.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/yhavysem.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/de4uda3y.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/ubyre7y2.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/sypa5ymu.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/arumuqar.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/ve6erada.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/y4equbuj.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/juguva3a.jpg
Step 6: Look under the steering wheel, there is a small latch that when pushed down will adjust the steering wheel column angle. Push it down then pull the steering column out and down. Lock the steering column there by pushing the adjustment lever back into position.pull the trim that sits directly over the steering column using your fingers. Behind it there are two screws and two tabs holding the instrument cluster in. Remove the two t25 screws using your screwdriver. Use the flat head to press the tabs out of the way and then down, this will allow you to pull out the instrument cluster. Before you do that, put a towel down on the steering column so it does not get scratched by the instrument cluster's sharp edges. When you pull the instrument cluster out you will be stopped by two harnesses. One green on the right side and a blue one on the left side. You need to press down on the small lip that is holding the switch from going up. Press that down using a screwdriver then press the red/magenta lever up. This will allow the harness to pop back. Remove both and the instrument cluster will come out.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/pahytyzu.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/ju3uvy5y.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/mu6y8eve.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/4ury7uvy.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/devypy6e.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/suretyzu.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/ma8etase.jpg
Step 7: Using your knife tool, cut the vacuum hose so that it is not too long, attach the inline filter and a pinch clamp. Attach the rest of the vacuum line that you just cut off to the opposite side of the filter. Now you should have vacuum hose attached to nothing, routed through the Ecu box down into the drivers foot well attached to a filter then more vacuum line. Trim this last piece of vacuum line so that it can reach the right side of the steering column, this will help so that it doesn't get tangled.
Now pick up your PPD unit. Plug the stock harnesses that came out of the instrument cluster into the outer ports on the PPD, with matching colors respectively. Then plug the STE harnesses into the inner ports. The opposite ends of the STE harnesses will go into the instrument cluster. Attach your vacuum line to the PPD using a pinch clamp. Install the STE harnesses to the instrument cluster by matching colors respectively. Secure your PPD unit using zip ties or double sided tape to any area in that kick panel.route the harness that is molded into the PPD to the fuse box for future use. Put the two screws back into the slots of the instrument cluster and gently slide it back, you may have to reach behind the instrument cluster from underneath And move the harnesss for the instrument cluster to sit properly. Tighten the screws, install the steering column trim and reposition your steering wheel.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/y3eruham.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/6usyhesa.jpg
Step 8: Back to the engine bay, we need to attach the vacuum hose to an intake manifold source. Use your 42dd intake manifold tap and unplug the accordion hose that goes from your pcv setup to the intake manifold. Insert the 42dd intake manifold tap between the accordion hose and intake manifold. Attach the vacuum line to the small tap on the 42dd tap using a pinch clamp. Reinstall the Ecu housing cover will all 5 t30 screws. Reinstall wiper arm to 14NM, or snug plus an 1/8th turn. Reinstall the kick panel, remember to plug the OBDII port and the light plugs back in. Use all three bolts, then reattach the fuse box.
Step 9: Pull out your trusty vag com! If you do not have one not a problem, go to the regional section of this forum that corresponds to your state and or city, look to see if anyone local offers their vag com, if not make a post and ask for help from people who own a vag com, this forum is full of friendly people that won't mind helping you! Make sure to buy them a beer.
Connect to 17-instruments. Go to adaptation and channel 62. Change the value to 23. Test. Save. Done. If you did all that right then you should be good to go.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/a8ubepa7.jpg
Step 10: Now you should display values on your DIS. The final step is calibration. Put your keys into the ignition and turn the key to ACC ON. Wait approximately 20 seconds and the display will flash "PPD map enabled" along with a chime. This means the unit is calibrated and your Ecu will read boost from the PPD built in boost sender which can read 40psi instead of the stock one that can only read 22.5psi. If you're message displayed "PPD map disabled, then cycle the ignition and try again.
That's all there is to it. Now you have boost, air flow ratio, intake air temps, voltage, low pressure and high pressure fuel readings, peak boost recall, oil and water temps and if you don't want to deal with performance for the moment, you can always switch back to have the DIS display the radio info.
I'll add some more photos and videos when I get a chance to go for a drive with someone who can film while I focus on driving.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/8e8arymu.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/yjy8esy3.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/e5epusub.jpg
******INSTALL NOTES*******
1. Do not insert your key into the ignition while the cluster is disconnected. Doing so will throw your immobilizer into safe mode. safe mode = bad, contrary to what it sounds like.
2. This kit did not come with 1/8" vacuum hose or pinch clamps. I would definitely buy some from Boost controller. I purchased 4 mm hose and 3mm pinch clamps they worked perfectly.
Silicon Hose - http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=8
Pinch Clamps - http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?item=995&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.boostcontr oller.com%2Findex.php%3Fpage%3D1%26category%3D105.
3. Vag-Com will not work unless you are in stock mode. You have all the performance measures, when you reach peak boost recall, you press down on the wiper stalk once, and it displays only boost, you press down once more and wait 5-10 seconds and it returns you to the radio info, now your vag com will work.
4. This is not the final version of the PPD. There will be an add on pack that attaches to the cable that is integrated to the PPD which was not used. This will add many more features, such as automatic data logging, usb updates, etc.
5. If you guys hate the annoying door chime as much as I do, then take this opportunity to actually open up your cluster. it's only 4 - t8 screws. and plug the alarm. I'll be doing a DIY on this soon as well.
6. When the unit goes on sale, there will be an option to use the stock boost sensor to read boost( Ideal if you don't plan on updating your turbo since this sensor reads to 22.5 PSI), and there will be an option to purchase the kit with the tap, vacuum line and pinch clamps to use the PPD boost sensor which can read up to 44 psi( excellent option for stage 3 users.)
Tools you will need:
Small flathead
T30 with 3/8 socket wrench
Box opener or small blade
8mm socket
T25 screwdriver
16mm socket
Supplies you will need:
3-4 ft vacuum line - http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=8
3mm vacuum line pinch clamps or similar. - http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?item=995&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.boostcontr oller.com%2Findex.php%3Fpage%3D1%26category%3D105.
This tutorial covers the install for a PPD install when you want to use the 44psi boost sensor that is built into the PPD. If you are not planning on using the 44psi boost sensor and just want the gauge for the other features it has, then skip all the steps that relate to installing the vacuum line. You will not need to do this since the PPD will also work with the stock boost sensor.
Step 1: Open your package to reveal its contents. 1 PPD, 1 green harness, 1 blue harness.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/enyzevyt.jpg
Step 2: Find the driver's side wiper blade, use a small flathead to remove the black cap that covers the anchor point of the wiper arm. You may want to lay down a strip of tape where your wiper blade is positioned currently because we will be removing it. Remove the nut using a 16mm socket. Pull back wiper arm and remove assembly.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/y8yjyvy8.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/u9ejydug.jpg
Step 3: below the wiper arm is a black box. This is your Ecu housing. We will be removing it by taking out the three t30 screws in the front and two t30's in the rear in each corner. Go ahead and remove them. Pull the Ecu housing cover by pulling it toward you and up. Be gentle. Chances are you don't have those yellow wires there, don't worry that is only for bixenon retrofits.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/4u2e7y6u.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/ny2u8eva.jpg
Step 4: Using your knife tool, cut a small hole into the large rubber grommet/sock that connects the engine wiring to the Ecu. We will be routing the vacuum line through this hole. Pull most of the hose through into the Ecu. Tie the 16mm socket onto the end of the vacuum hose that is in the Ecu housing. This will serve as a weight. Maneuver the hose through the rear side of the Ecu housing closest that is closest to the fender. You should be able to push it in easily and it will end up caught in the drivers kick panel. We will get there.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/vugymyde.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/enyruvyr.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/a9a7y7ev.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/aguga3a6.jpg
Step 5: Open the driver's door and using your Audi key or a flat headed screw driver pry off the fuse box cover located to the left of the steering wheel.
Here you will find a small 8mm screw, remove it. There are two more in each corner of the kick panel on the underside. Push your seat back and get under the steering wheel to find them. With the three screws removed the kick panel should pull out toward the seat, and once the clips are out of the dash it will be easy to lay down. Pull the white connector from the back of the kick panel by opening it's white legs and pulling it back. Remove the obd-II connector by pushing in all three tabs and pulling back. Now you can remove your kick panel and set it on a soft surface. Go back under the steering wheel and find your socket and vacuum line, pull it down so you have access to it.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/yhavysem.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/de4uda3y.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/ubyre7y2.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/sypa5ymu.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/arumuqar.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/ve6erada.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/y4equbuj.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/juguva3a.jpg
Step 6: Look under the steering wheel, there is a small latch that when pushed down will adjust the steering wheel column angle. Push it down then pull the steering column out and down. Lock the steering column there by pushing the adjustment lever back into position.pull the trim that sits directly over the steering column using your fingers. Behind it there are two screws and two tabs holding the instrument cluster in. Remove the two t25 screws using your screwdriver. Use the flat head to press the tabs out of the way and then down, this will allow you to pull out the instrument cluster. Before you do that, put a towel down on the steering column so it does not get scratched by the instrument cluster's sharp edges. When you pull the instrument cluster out you will be stopped by two harnesses. One green on the right side and a blue one on the left side. You need to press down on the small lip that is holding the switch from going up. Press that down using a screwdriver then press the red/magenta lever up. This will allow the harness to pop back. Remove both and the instrument cluster will come out.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/pahytyzu.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/ju3uvy5y.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/mu6y8eve.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/4ury7uvy.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/devypy6e.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/suretyzu.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/ma8etase.jpg
Step 7: Using your knife tool, cut the vacuum hose so that it is not too long, attach the inline filter and a pinch clamp. Attach the rest of the vacuum line that you just cut off to the opposite side of the filter. Now you should have vacuum hose attached to nothing, routed through the Ecu box down into the drivers foot well attached to a filter then more vacuum line. Trim this last piece of vacuum line so that it can reach the right side of the steering column, this will help so that it doesn't get tangled.
Now pick up your PPD unit. Plug the stock harnesses that came out of the instrument cluster into the outer ports on the PPD, with matching colors respectively. Then plug the STE harnesses into the inner ports. The opposite ends of the STE harnesses will go into the instrument cluster. Attach your vacuum line to the PPD using a pinch clamp. Install the STE harnesses to the instrument cluster by matching colors respectively. Secure your PPD unit using zip ties or double sided tape to any area in that kick panel.route the harness that is molded into the PPD to the fuse box for future use. Put the two screws back into the slots of the instrument cluster and gently slide it back, you may have to reach behind the instrument cluster from underneath And move the harnesss for the instrument cluster to sit properly. Tighten the screws, install the steering column trim and reposition your steering wheel.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/y3eruham.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/6usyhesa.jpg
Step 8: Back to the engine bay, we need to attach the vacuum hose to an intake manifold source. Use your 42dd intake manifold tap and unplug the accordion hose that goes from your pcv setup to the intake manifold. Insert the 42dd intake manifold tap between the accordion hose and intake manifold. Attach the vacuum line to the small tap on the 42dd tap using a pinch clamp. Reinstall the Ecu housing cover will all 5 t30 screws. Reinstall wiper arm to 14NM, or snug plus an 1/8th turn. Reinstall the kick panel, remember to plug the OBDII port and the light plugs back in. Use all three bolts, then reattach the fuse box.
Step 9: Pull out your trusty vag com! If you do not have one not a problem, go to the regional section of this forum that corresponds to your state and or city, look to see if anyone local offers their vag com, if not make a post and ask for help from people who own a vag com, this forum is full of friendly people that won't mind helping you! Make sure to buy them a beer.
Connect to 17-instruments. Go to adaptation and channel 62. Change the value to 23. Test. Save. Done. If you did all that right then you should be good to go.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/a8ubepa7.jpg
Step 10: Now you should display values on your DIS. The final step is calibration. Put your keys into the ignition and turn the key to ACC ON. Wait approximately 20 seconds and the display will flash "PPD map enabled" along with a chime. This means the unit is calibrated and your Ecu will read boost from the PPD built in boost sender which can read 40psi instead of the stock one that can only read 22.5psi. If you're message displayed "PPD map disabled, then cycle the ignition and try again.
That's all there is to it. Now you have boost, air flow ratio, intake air temps, voltage, low pressure and high pressure fuel readings, peak boost recall, oil and water temps and if you don't want to deal with performance for the moment, you can always switch back to have the DIS display the radio info.
I'll add some more photos and videos when I get a chance to go for a drive with someone who can film while I focus on driving.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/8e8arymu.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/yjy8esy3.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/18/e5epusub.jpg
******INSTALL NOTES*******
1. Do not insert your key into the ignition while the cluster is disconnected. Doing so will throw your immobilizer into safe mode. safe mode = bad, contrary to what it sounds like.
2. This kit did not come with 1/8" vacuum hose or pinch clamps. I would definitely buy some from Boost controller. I purchased 4 mm hose and 3mm pinch clamps they worked perfectly.
Silicon Hose - http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=8
Pinch Clamps - http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?item=995&ret=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.boostcontr oller.com%2Findex.php%3Fpage%3D1%26category%3D105.
3. Vag-Com will not work unless you are in stock mode. You have all the performance measures, when you reach peak boost recall, you press down on the wiper stalk once, and it displays only boost, you press down once more and wait 5-10 seconds and it returns you to the radio info, now your vag com will work.
4. This is not the final version of the PPD. There will be an add on pack that attaches to the cable that is integrated to the PPD which was not used. This will add many more features, such as automatic data logging, usb updates, etc.
5. If you guys hate the annoying door chime as much as I do, then take this opportunity to actually open up your cluster. it's only 4 - t8 screws. and plug the alarm. I'll be doing a DIY on this soon as well.
6. When the unit goes on sale, there will be an option to use the stock boost sensor to read boost( Ideal if you don't plan on updating your turbo since this sensor reads to 22.5 PSI), and there will be an option to purchase the kit with the tap, vacuum line and pinch clamps to use the PPD boost sensor which can read up to 44 psi( excellent option for stage 3 users.)