View Full Version : The easiest SIMPLE PLUG AND PLAY DRL LED COMBO...
advan24r
02-05-2013, 10:27 PM
So after research, I ended up getting the following items. The only modification is shaving the edges on the aftermarket socket to get it to fit. No BULB OUT ERROR
TOOLS:
Dremel w/rotor grinder
Phillips Screwdriver
Materials (all bought from LEDLIGHT.COM):
1156 Adapter w/built in 8Ohm Resistor/25W (MSRP $8.99 ea). This avoids you from splicing into your stock harness, one end goes into 7506 socket and the other end is where your LED bulb fits in (this is the socket where you need to shave 2 edges (widest one and shortest one off) to be able to fully insert the bulb in and twist & lock.
http://www.ledlight.com/1156_ba15s_inline_socket_load_equalizer.aspx
http://www.ledlight.com/images/67543_m.jpg
60 SMD LED 1156/7506 bulb. (there is a 120 SMD LED version on autolumination.com but I didn't get it since the company didn't have a good reputation)
http://www.ledlight.com/s25-60-ultra-bright-led-light.aspx
http://www.ledlight.com/images/42367_m.jpg
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s121/sportscards4sale/IMG_0228_zps1b873f2b.jpg
Now, trying to figure out how to tap my aftermarket LED (i.e. angels, etc) into the dome so it comes on when unlocking and turns off when locking.
ClownTrigger
02-05-2013, 10:31 PM
Isn't that functionality part of the "coming home" feature? Doesn't it turn your fogs on when you unlock or something? I have halogen, so idk.
schowe
02-06-2013, 06:55 AM
That is pretty cool, I just wired resistors in and didn't really think twice about it. Do they make adapters for the city light sockets too?
jsandor91
02-06-2013, 06:56 AM
interested to see the finished project
my car originally had halogens and i have coming home its a little switch next to the headlight switch.
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SykoraA4
02-06-2013, 07:47 AM
links to where you got everything?
would this work for the turn signals too?
mcpcartier
02-06-2013, 08:22 AM
Looks nice....
Once I get my head unit working with bluetooth properly I'll start working on LED's for city lights, DRL, Turn signals, and fogs. I love the bi-xenon lighting, everything else on the front looks dated and of faded.
Dirtyylicous
02-06-2013, 08:49 AM
That's awesome, can you post a direct link of the adapter if you have a chance?
I'm curious to see if you can get the coming home feature to work with them. That'd be awesome. Thanks
advan24r
02-06-2013, 09:26 AM
That's awesome, can you post a direct link of the adapter if you have a chance?
I'm curious to see if you can get the coming home feature to work with them. That'd be awesome. Thanks
Let me know if you ever get it go on w/the home feature...I'm clueless on where to start or tap in w/the power line.
advan24r
02-06-2013, 09:31 AM
Isn't that functionality part of the "coming home" feature? Doesn't it turn your fogs on when you unlock or something? I have halogen, so idk.
I have a DTM FRONT so I don't have fogs but you are right, I still have that "coming home" knob next to my DRL knob. That would probably be the first area to look to tap into the locking and unlocking OR to find the trigger wire for the DOME once you lock/unlock the door.
That is pretty cool, I just wired resistors in and didn't really think twice about it. Do they make adapters for the city light sockets too? I'm not sure, I just came across it while surfing for bulbs on LEDLIGHT.COM
links to where you got everything?
would this work for the turn signals too? Links have been posted in original thread, I don't see why it wouldn't work on turn signals, as long as you can find the right adapter. I haven't tried looking for it. I don't plan on doing it since it is harder to access the turn signals vs. the DRLs.
tankdeer
02-07-2013, 08:58 AM
Have you checked how hot these get after running for a while? One of the benefits of running a more "traditional" resistor is that you can place it in the engine bay where the head won't be an issue. Presumably because of the short wiring you have these completely in the headlight housing, which is where I would be concerned about heat.
And yes, they make them for city lights & turn signals. When in doubt - ebay
Mr. Lahey
02-07-2013, 10:06 AM
this would be a pretty cool feature, anybody have a link where you can buy the coming home module
Mr. Lahey
02-07-2013, 10:09 AM
With the power of google i found my answer
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/351868-DIY-Bische-mod-v1-0-(Cominghome-for-lowline-cars)?p=5054827&posted=1#post5054827
http://audiforum.us/threads/how-to-fit-auto-lights-with-coming-home-function.5381/
advan24r
02-07-2013, 02:49 PM
Have you checked how hot these get after running for a while? One of the benefits of running a more "traditional" resistor is that you can place it in the engine bay where the head won't be an issue. Presumably because of the short wiring you have these completely in the headlight housing, which is where I would be concerned about heat.
And yes, they make them for city lights & turn signals. When in doubt - ebay
Yes it gets hot. I was thinking of extending the wires out but I would have to drill little holes into the headlight compartment cap to pull the wires out and extend it How do those other people managed to get the resistor outside? That's the only solution I can think of. W/more of a traditional resistor, you would have to tap into the stock harness still unless you build your own harness like what I bought.
With the power of google i found my answer
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/351868-DIY-Bische-mod-v1-0-(Cominghome-for-lowline-cars)?p=5054827&posted=1#post5054827
http://audiforum.us/threads/how-to-fit-auto-lights-with-coming-home-function.5381/
Looks good, but I already have the HOME AWAY knob that I can activate. I need more of a direct approach on how to wire AFTERMARKET LEDS to it or just have it wired to the dome light control so when locking and unlocking will control the LEDs vs. having all of the headlights/fogs on.
tankdeer
02-07-2013, 03:03 PM
Yes it gets hot. I was thinking of extending the wires out but I would have to drill little holes into the headlight compartment cap to pull the wires out and extend it How do those other people managed to get the resistor outside? That's the only solution I can think of. W/more of a traditional resistor, you would have to tap into the stock harness still unless you build your own harness like what I bought.
I figured it would. I would be worried about it getting too hot. That said I just ordered a couple of these because I needed some anyways so I figure I can play with these. If they need to be mounted outside the headlight that's fine. I know some people have had luck with just running the wires through the little access door in the back of the headlight and closing it on the wires. Worth a shot I suppose.
advan24r
02-07-2013, 03:07 PM
I figured it would. I would be worried about it getting too hot. That said I just ordered a couple of these because I needed some anyways so I figure I can play with these. If they need to be mounted outside the headlight that's fine. I know some people have had luck with just running the wires through the little access door in the back of the headlight and closing it on the wires. Worth a shot I suppose.
I tried closing the cap over the wires but the 18AWG wires are too thick for the cap to fully close. That is why I was thinking if it does get too hot, I was going to just solder an extension, drill 2 little holes in the cap and pull it through to mount the resistor outside.
tankdeer
02-07-2013, 03:12 PM
I tried closing the cap over the wires but the 18AWG wires are too thick for the cap to fully close. That is why I was thinking if it does get too hot, I was going to just solder an extension, drill 2 little holes in the cap and pull it through to mount the resistor outside.
That would work too. Or remove the 1156 plugs and tap them into the external harness in a more traditional sense. I wonder how hot is "too hot" for inside the housing? I mean, normal incandescent bulbs get pretty damn hot.
advan24r
02-07-2013, 03:17 PM
That would work too. Or remove the 1156 plugs and tap them into the external harness in a more traditional sense. I wonder how hot is "too hot" for inside the housing? I mean, normal incandescent bulbs get pretty damn hot.
Well, I did read that the max temp. rating on the 18awg wire is 105C which is 200+F , which is pretty damn hot already. I wonder how much hotter it needs to get to literally burn through the plastic casing.
IKE20VA4
02-07-2013, 07:45 PM
I doubt the resistors would get hotter than a normal halogen bulb or even a xenon bulb, especially being that they are housed in plastic themselves.
Schweini
02-07-2013, 07:54 PM
Resistors have a much larger power rating which is exactly what they're made for, of course they won't get hotter than a bulb.
At any rate, this is why electrical code is implemented, certain wire sizes are only rated to withstand a specific ampacity rating. The people making these products have no idea what kind of application you're using them in, so they clearly aren't made to withstand everything and anything. I'd be careful, just because it's working now, doesn't mean it'll keep working the way you want it be in a few weeks down the road
advan24r
02-08-2013, 02:38 PM
Schweini: Just PMed you. I got a question in regards to switching the LED bulb to a higher 27W LED bulb as well as leaving the 8 ohm/25W resistor inside the DRL compartment.
Schweini
02-08-2013, 03:07 PM
PM replied, goodluck dude