Audiguy1234
01-19-2013, 07:33 PM
I decided to do this conversion mostly because I wanted to see how it would turn out. My powersteering pump was working fine, but I had a minor leak somewhere in my OEM setup. I figured a new hose would end up costing me 200 or more dollars. I believe I ended spending maybe close to 300 dollars, the prices below can be lower depending on sales and what not. I suppose this could be applied to pretty much any car with a 5/8 banjo for the high pressure line for the steering rack. Please if you attempt this do not buy the cheap low pressure an hoses and fitting, because they will most likely leak, I'm not saying Russell makes the best (use any brand you want, as long as it can handle 2000 psi), but they are rated for high pressure situations.
The list of parts you will need for this is:
MR2 SW20 Power Steering pump $100 (maybe more or less depending where you shop, I found mine on CL)
-6 an high pressure line 10-15 ft depending where you want to mount ($90)
RUS-632640
-6 an 5/8 banjo fitting ($25)
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/5-8-Inch-or-16mm-to-AN6-Banjo-Fitting-for-Power-Steering-Pump,40108.html
-6an hose end ($15)
RUS-620401
16x1.5mm to -6 an adapter ($10)
RUS-648060
3/8 low pressure hose (any works really not that big of a deal)
12v Relay (few bucks)
12v 80 circuit breaker ($10)
Electric wire (found in garage)
New accessory belt ($15-20 at Oreily)
Green PS Fluid ($20 NAPA)
Drill, jack and basic hand tools
16497
Russell Hose that I used with the hose ends already attached. I learned that the Powersteering rack uses a 5/8 size banjo, but I couldn't find the right bolt's thread... Oh well I reused it with the banjo fitting. I'm not going to explain how to put the fittings together with the hose because there are plenty of DIYs out there.
16498
I decided to delete my AC at the same time because it's usually cold where I live and the AC seemed like it need a recharge anyways. In order to remove and pump and change the belt I had to remove the front end. Maybe you don't have to, but it took me 30 mins, which was not bad. Essentially there are a lot of DIYs on AZ explaining how to remove the different PS components. So, all you really need to do is remove all of it. Then relocate the pump to somewhere you want. I placed mine in the trunk, hence why I needed about 10ft or so of the high pressure -6 an hose. I bought the Accessory Belt at Oreily late at night for maybe 17 dollars. I just measured out the length and showed them my original belt.
16499
The MR2 Pump is very easy to wire up. It looks a little complicated because of the computer it uses to vary the current it draws during the different vehicle speeds. However, I decided to have it turn on and off when the ignition is on with a relay. I had a 12v circuit breaker as well in the circuit. I should probably solder the electrical connections, but when I attempted this it was raining near the end. Anyways, the pump has a thicker black (negative) and red (positive) that you can just hook up into a circuit. I was able to reuse some of my old PS lines like the return lines with no problems. I cut the OEM cooler in half and attached it to the 3/8 hoses so that it could reach the trunk.
This DIY does not show you very much I understand, but I don't think everyone is going to attempt to do the exact same as me. I wanted to redistribute the weight of my car knowing that it is heavy in the front. Also, I wanted to clean up the engine bay and get rid of the clutter from the AC and PS. I ran all the lines under the car and zipped tied it to the plastic pieces underneath. Eventually I will take the plastic covering and use it to cover the PS lines like how our OEM fuel lines are covered up, but I'm probably going to wait till spring. Some people might think you need a PS cooler, but the past month or more of driving has not giving me any problems, probably because it is so cold, but the 10 feet -6 an hose helps dissipate the heat pretty well along with the cut up OEM cooler line.
I made the list above to give you an idea of what you will need without the guess work. I was quite loss where to start, because it seems that nobody on AZ has done this or has posted much about this topic. The steering feel is not OEM at all. It's a little harder to turn, which I prefer, since OEM felt too light. Freeway and regular street driving feels the same except a little heavier. I also wired it up to a switch, which allows me to turn on and off at will. There is a slight whining noise audible during idle from the pump, which can be annoying and can be dealt with be relocating the pump, but I will deal with that later. I spent maybe half a day doing this, so it is not that big of a project. I researched more on the parts need than actually executing the project. Sorry I should have taken more pictures along the way, but I don't think it is needed. On another note, my car does seem more responsive with the throttle, since I only have the idler and alternator pulley left.
The list of parts you will need for this is:
MR2 SW20 Power Steering pump $100 (maybe more or less depending where you shop, I found mine on CL)
-6 an high pressure line 10-15 ft depending where you want to mount ($90)
RUS-632640
-6 an 5/8 banjo fitting ($25)
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/5-8-Inch-or-16mm-to-AN6-Banjo-Fitting-for-Power-Steering-Pump,40108.html
-6an hose end ($15)
RUS-620401
16x1.5mm to -6 an adapter ($10)
RUS-648060
3/8 low pressure hose (any works really not that big of a deal)
12v Relay (few bucks)
12v 80 circuit breaker ($10)
Electric wire (found in garage)
New accessory belt ($15-20 at Oreily)
Green PS Fluid ($20 NAPA)
Drill, jack and basic hand tools
16497
Russell Hose that I used with the hose ends already attached. I learned that the Powersteering rack uses a 5/8 size banjo, but I couldn't find the right bolt's thread... Oh well I reused it with the banjo fitting. I'm not going to explain how to put the fittings together with the hose because there are plenty of DIYs out there.
16498
I decided to delete my AC at the same time because it's usually cold where I live and the AC seemed like it need a recharge anyways. In order to remove and pump and change the belt I had to remove the front end. Maybe you don't have to, but it took me 30 mins, which was not bad. Essentially there are a lot of DIYs on AZ explaining how to remove the different PS components. So, all you really need to do is remove all of it. Then relocate the pump to somewhere you want. I placed mine in the trunk, hence why I needed about 10ft or so of the high pressure -6 an hose. I bought the Accessory Belt at Oreily late at night for maybe 17 dollars. I just measured out the length and showed them my original belt.
16499
The MR2 Pump is very easy to wire up. It looks a little complicated because of the computer it uses to vary the current it draws during the different vehicle speeds. However, I decided to have it turn on and off when the ignition is on with a relay. I had a 12v circuit breaker as well in the circuit. I should probably solder the electrical connections, but when I attempted this it was raining near the end. Anyways, the pump has a thicker black (negative) and red (positive) that you can just hook up into a circuit. I was able to reuse some of my old PS lines like the return lines with no problems. I cut the OEM cooler in half and attached it to the 3/8 hoses so that it could reach the trunk.
This DIY does not show you very much I understand, but I don't think everyone is going to attempt to do the exact same as me. I wanted to redistribute the weight of my car knowing that it is heavy in the front. Also, I wanted to clean up the engine bay and get rid of the clutter from the AC and PS. I ran all the lines under the car and zipped tied it to the plastic pieces underneath. Eventually I will take the plastic covering and use it to cover the PS lines like how our OEM fuel lines are covered up, but I'm probably going to wait till spring. Some people might think you need a PS cooler, but the past month or more of driving has not giving me any problems, probably because it is so cold, but the 10 feet -6 an hose helps dissipate the heat pretty well along with the cut up OEM cooler line.
I made the list above to give you an idea of what you will need without the guess work. I was quite loss where to start, because it seems that nobody on AZ has done this or has posted much about this topic. The steering feel is not OEM at all. It's a little harder to turn, which I prefer, since OEM felt too light. Freeway and regular street driving feels the same except a little heavier. I also wired it up to a switch, which allows me to turn on and off at will. There is a slight whining noise audible during idle from the pump, which can be annoying and can be dealt with be relocating the pump, but I will deal with that later. I spent maybe half a day doing this, so it is not that big of a project. I researched more on the parts need than actually executing the project. Sorry I should have taken more pictures along the way, but I don't think it is needed. On another note, my car does seem more responsive with the throttle, since I only have the idler and alternator pulley left.