Einzett question(s)

[knucklehaedjcz]

I just got the 1Z Einzett starter kit from detailers domain. I have a couple newb questions if anyone can help.
1) The window cleaner says that if you are in CA (which I am not) that you are supposed to mix it 50/50 with water. I am wondering it would be better to dilute it anyway. Should I use distilled water to dilute as opposed to tap water - does it matter?
2) I have piano black trim, can I use the cockpit or the plastic cleaner on this or should I treat it like paint & polish/wax it? It has some light scratches & I am not sure what Audi uses for this trim - is it painted & clear coated?
3) The car is an '11 A5 and the paint is good, but there are light scratches. Would a wash followed by paint polish & then glanz wax be the correct method?
4) Lastly, I am going to debadge, would the anti-inseckt work to remove the left over adhesive? I have seen that others have used bug & tar remover, I assume this would work.
Thank you in advance for any answers or advice.

[VroomVroom]

Disclaimer, all-the-below are IME/IMO, yada yada. :)



1) The window cleaner says that if you are in CA (which I am not) that you are supposed to mix it 50/50 with water. I am wondering it would be better to dilute it anyway. Should I use distilled water to dilute as opposed to tap water - does it matter?
If possible, definitely dilute, and distilled water is the best option. You can run that stuff straight, but realistically, doing so is overkill. Go for the durability and dilute. It's great stuff.



2) I have piano black trim, can I use the cockpit or the plastic cleaner on this or should I treat it like paint & polish/wax it? It has some light scratches & I am not sure what Audi uses for this trim - is it painted & clear coated?
You can certainly use Cockpit - or the plastic cleaner - but Cockpit is a terrific light cleaner, and will remove dust, fingerprints, light grime, etc. The plastic cleaner *may* help with some of the light scratches. That is a clear coat, but as I recall, it's pretty thin. I had good luck with a very light dab of Meguiar's Scratch-X (this is a pretty mild abrasive paint polish) and a bit of elbow grease, with a terry applicator. FWIW, I then apply couple of light coats of paint sealant for protection. (Blackfire Wet Diamond most recently, if only because it was first on the shelf.)



3) The car is an '11 A5 and the paint is good, but there are light scratches. Would a wash followed by paint polish & then glanz wax be the correct method?
Yes. Don't expect full correction (i.e. leveling of the finish to remove scratches), especially if you're working by hand, but you'll certainly improve things. You may want to consider a clay bar treatment after the wash, followed by another wash (or constant/frequent rinse while claying) before polishing.



4) Lastly, I am going to debadge, would the anti-inseckt work to remove the left over adhesive? I have seen that others have used bug & tar remover, I assume this would work.
Thank you in advance for any answers or advice.
Yes, but...this really depends. Debadging is all about the prep work, which comes down to heat, time, and the quality (and quantity) of the adhesive remover. Just like any painting work you've ever done, 90% of a successful debadge is prep, and the other 10% is the amazement from how easy the execution and clean-up can be. FYI, this is where a clay bar can come in handy as well - it'll remove any stubborn adhesive residue left behind in the clean-up process. As always...be careful not to induce any fresh scratches or marring.

Good luck - I hope that helps.

[knucklehaedjcz]

Thank you very much Jerry. That does help. I understand I will not get a full correction, but I figured polish and wax with an orbital buffer will help a bit. Thanks again, much appreciated.

[Stevos555]

I use klasse all in one on the CF dash and trim.

[VroomVroom]

I use klasse all in one on the CF dash and trim.
Great product. Depending on the severity of the scratches, it might not be strong enough. Piano Black, as you'd guess, shows EVERYTHING. But you make a great point - always start with the least abrasive product possible. It's much easier to increase strength than it is to fix damage caused by too much of it. Also, FWIW, a good sealant is generally very durable, and remarkably slick. I've found it does a nice job of resisting dust and static buildup. If you don't mind another recommendation, Wolfgang's Deep Gloss Paint Sealant is outstanding for this purpose as well. With v.3.0, they've made it much more durable, and I've found it to be the sealant that most looks like a really good carnauba. I love that stuff on dark colors, too.