Car shaking when changing gear on low speed on Automatic

[ijaved]

Hi All, I had a CEL a week ago P0441 which is basically a bad n80. I did not have any issue when CEL came on but a couple of days later my car won't shift to high gear on low speed (like when its on auto). The car starts to shake and the rpm needle fluctuate, goes down and back up few markers. I did full my tank to the max couple of time accidently.

I switched it to tip and started changing the gears manually and saw that if I change it around 2.2rpm it shifts smoothly. But if I change the gears faster like low speed high gear it starts to shake and also if I go more than 2.2rpm. Also when the car starts shaking the CEL starts blinking. I have to buy a obd scanner any recommendation for it? last time I borrowed it from a friend and it gave me that error. I have yet to get the new error codes out of it but I am pretty sure these symptoms can pin point the issue.

I replaced n80 last night and the problem is still there.[confused]

[DRAKLORE]

I would start with looking at the factory snub mount, those have a tendency to deteriorate, and without knowing it you may be driving a bit more aggressive when in "manual" mode. That would cause the whole engine and trans to shift forward/backward, it's a 30$ part anyways and should be replaced regardless so it's a start.

All
Other options are quite a bit more involved and expensive. Personally it sounds like your TCM is either opening the solenoids in the valve body late or there is a fluid issue. I'm not sure if you could check/replace the auto trans fluid and filter. But typically when dealing with trans issues, the condition of the fluid, and the bits of metal and such in it are a good reference point to the condition of the internal components.

Iirc member Camoto got his trans upgraded. There Are a few places I've read that will flash or upgrade the TCM which might help

[A410]

x2 on the snub, check that out as a common source of vibrations and agree that you should change it regardless as regular maintenance.
The N80 is also a known failing point and can cause vibrations and rough idles, etc... but clearly that wasn't the problem but atleast you got that maintenance out of the way.

As far as blinking CEL, it's possible it could be a spark problem -- plugs or bad coil pack that could also be causing unwanted vibration/hesitation and the car running rough.

[DRAKLORE]

Oh snap my bad I didn't even notice he said the CEL is blinking- hello Missfire
Which should have nothing to do with the TCM

Wow my bad, ignore my post. Looks to me
Like you have some coils to check

[A410]

Also, he said RPM fluctuation -- if I recall, isn't that a bad torque converter?

[80sGuy]

Sounds like coils but then it should affect even though switching to 'manual' mode.

[DRAKLORE]

Yeah a weird one here, could be the extra load from Manual mode?

[ijaved]

My co-worker helped me out by scanning the code for me. So the code I got was two different one's P0171 / P0000 and P0302. I have yet to check them out as what they mean.


Oh snap my bad I didn't even notice he said the CEL is blinking- hello Missfire
Which should have nothing to do with the TCM

Wow my bad, ignore my post. Looks to me
Like you have some coils to check
I will check them tonight.


Sounds like coils but then it should affect even though switching to 'manual' mode.
It is but if I swift on a specific rpm usually at 2.2rpm it sometimes shifts smoothly.


Yeah a weird one here, could be the extra load from Manual mode?
I never even used tip before this issue. Only used S mode few times as well.

I did get APR Stage 1 flashed but I had P0441 that time which I fixed 2 days after getting APR.

[ijaved]

Bought 4 coil from Audi Part #07K905715F and replaced just #2 (P0302 = Cylinder #2 Misfire Detected) and it seemed to have fixed the issue. I did this in my lunch hour and took me less then 10mins. I did a small test run and gears seems to be shifting smoothly till 4. Will know more in few hours when I drive back home on highway. I am crossing my finger and hoping this was the issue.

What do you guys suggest should I replace the other 3 as well? or wait for it to fail? Audi guy said its upto you and that you can always return it within 30 days. Its just $24 dollars each.

Followed this DIY http://www.audiction.com/audi-maintenance/audi-a4-b7-2-0t-coil-pack-replacement/

[A410]

Glad you seemed to have figured it out. I would suggest replacing them all at once, and keep your functioning old ones as spares.

[ijaved]

Yay that was the issue. Car runs fine now.


Glad you seemed to have figured it out. I would suggest replacing them all at once, and keep your functioning old ones as spares.

Thanks for the advice I will change the rest of them tomorrow :)

Thank you all for replying and suggesting fixes and thank you for the DIY which is from different site but we should have something like that over here as well in DIY section. Or maybe I missed it.

[A410]

Yay that was the issue. Car runs fine now.



Thanks for the advice I will change the rest of them tomorrow :)

Thank you all for replying and suggesting fixes and thank you for the DIY which is from different site but we should have something like that over here as well in DIY section. Or maybe I missed it.

No problem

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/331619-DIY-Spark-Plugs-for-Dummies-update-for-B7-A4-s

[ickering236]

Oh snap my bad I didn't even notice he said the CEL is blinking- hello Missfire
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