Plasti Dippin' wheels - Finish lookin like garbage? Input appreciated..

[4Ring]

The plasti dip is spraying on in horrible splatter shapes and the first 2 coats just looks downright shitty. I might be doin too heavy of coats so I lightened up on my second wheel but the first one is hideous.

I'm doing this in my garage and I think its the temperature im working in that's causing this as its about 50* F if i took a guess. Recommended is 70 or room temperature and if this can't be achieved then you should let the aerosol can chill in a room temp environment for several hours...

Will it even out after 4 coats? [headbang][headbang]

[Ed Gein]

Its supposed to look like shit in the first couple coats but it will smooth out really nice when its dry. 50 degrees might be a little too cold though.

[mec]

needs to be warmer, also make sure to shake sufficiently.

[4Ring]

I left the cans in the garage and they were cold to touch and im assuming I didnt shake em enough either.

Just added another coat and the spray was a lot more mistier... Hoping it will come out looking good cuz this just wont cut it.

Lookin like a bag of shit.

[4Ring]

needs to be warmer, also make sure to shake sufficiently.

Beginning to understand this with disgust in my eyes.

Might have to rip off the coats from the first wheel and re do it properly. I'll finish up tomorrow afternoon as my garage should get a bit warmer.

Thanks for the input.

[Ed Gein]

When I did my wheels it looked like bedliner when it was still wet

[coolgraymemo]

Put the cans in warm water.

[4Ring]

Problem is it's drying in speckles/splatters. Gotta be the cold..

Guess I'll see how they look after i finish the remaining coats tomo..

[4Ring]

Put the cans in warm water.

I have them wrapped around towels standing under my construction light.

[EMAXX]

I have them wrapped around towels standing under my construction light.


Or you can leave the cans inside your house when you're not painting, then just shake them up and spray some coats.

Also when you're painting, if you have a space heater, pull that out to the garage to at least warm the area up.

[mec]

good tips ^

[4Ring]

Or you can leave the cans inside your house when you're not painting, then just shake them up and spray some coats.

Also when you're painting, if you have a space heater, pull that out to the garage to at least warm the area up.

Already doing this. I give up tonight. Looks like shit. Good night

[CharlesP2009]

You already know the problem. Too cold and you're not following the directions properly. Put a heater in the garage or wait till warmer weather! [:D]

[audinepa]

Bring cans in house warm to room temperature, heat garage if possible before spraying again, if first two sprays look like chit peel and start over, finished product will have a slightly rough finish to it, did mine 9 plus months ago and still holding up nicely with only minor touch ups

http://imageshack.us/a/img805/1842/familypictures22812006.jpg

[jimrobbington]

Also, how far away are you holding the can? This stuff actually dries super fast, and I've found if you hold the can too far away, it can form globs in mid air and give you too much texture. You need to be like 8-10" away at most.

Sent from my porcelain throne.

[A410]

Also, how far away are you holding the can? This stuff actually dries super fast, and I've found if you hold the can too far away, it can form globs in mid air and give you too much texture. You need to be like 8-10" away at most.

Sent from my porcelain throne.

I think that's most of his problem -- not the temp or any of that crap, I am prob gonna dip my wheels within the next month just to change up the look and whenever I use it, I am never MORE than 6" away, comes out nice and smooth. Just got do quick, even, swiping motion with light dustings. Trying to glob on too much at once will do just that -- GLOB.

[PNW Avant]

Although distance might also help, you can't discount the temperature. That is definitely a problem.

I would keep the cans in warm water, thats what I do with paint no matter the temperature im painting in.

[A410]

Although distance might also help, you can't discount the temperature. That is definitely a problem.

I would keep the cans in warm water, thats what I do with paint no matter the temperature im painting in.

I agree with you that temperature CAN matter, but I don't think 50 degrees is too extreme, plus like the OP has claimed, he has taken several steps to combat the "cold weather", which IMO unless you are in the 30 degree freezing range, this isn't the cause of his being unsuccessful... sounds more to me like technique. But thats the thing with Plasti-dip, different techniques can give you different results. If you wan't a textured ABS plastic OEM type look, hold it a bit further away for texture. If you want smooth, spray a bit closer.

[B7Joe]

Impatience gets the best of us once in a while.

You want to try it REALLY bad and all of a sudden you convince yourself that painting that part without prepping, in 40 degree weather, in the dark, while still in business attire, in the 15 minutes before your wife gets home... is somehow a PERFECT idea.

LOL! :D

I've been there.

[A4A4A4]

The first coat you put on should be quite light. From the second on they can get a little heavier.

When I first tried dipping I had a bit of a rough texture, turns out I was too far away with the can. You want to be about 6-8 inches, pretty well as close as you can without it dripping.

Watch some of Fonzie's "dipyourcar" youtube videos and you should get a better idea on the technique.

[4Ring]

Thanks for the advice ladies. I have taken all of this into consideration and am returning for round 2. Got the cans in hot water for the past 20 minutes and the garage is def warmer than last night. I was holding the can in the range of 6-12 inches depending on if im trying to hit an edge or a flat surface.

Ill post pics when Im done..

But first, rippin off the garbage.

Be back soon.

[A410]

Ladies lol

Best of luck tho!

[4Ring]

Oh, i was gonna ask. What do you guys do about the inner wheel well? its grey and it doesn't look good if not matched. So I'm assuming you paint the inside as well?

[EMAXX]

Oh, i was gonna ask. What do you guys do about the inner wheel well? its grey and it doesn't look good if not matched. So I'm assuming you paint the inside as well?


I've never painted the inside of my wheels. Once you mount them, you really can't notice it, unless you have some really open wheels.

[A410]

I've never painted the inside of my wheels. Once you mount them, you really can't notice it, unless you have some really open wheels.

x2

[4Ring]

See that's what I figured until my friend started mumblin'

5 spoke stockies are kinda open but not enough, especially when they're mounted. You cant see the inside unless you get to ground level..

[4Ring]

How long do you guys wait between coats? I've read anywhere from 10-30 min.

Been doing 30 minute intervals thus far.

[A410]

I usually do 15 minutes in between coats.

[4Ring]

So after experimenting around with all your advice this was the final product.

I only did one wheel for now, going to do the other 3 tomorrow. I'll post a pic of them mounted on the car once she's outta the paint shop.

Sorry for the shitty quality pic. I took with bad lighting and minimized file size for upload purposes..

http://i778.photobucket.com/albums/yy62/1sicka4/plastidipped_zps644ec56a.jpg

[A410]

Appears to have turned out quite well [up]

[themaxvoltage]

I've been kicking around dipping my wheels black as well. Looks great! How'd you remove the Audi emblem? This is something I've been meaning to look into... Heat gun and re apply adhesive?

[audidahdidah]

I've been kicking around dipping my wheels black as well. Looks great! How'd you remove the Audi emblem? This is something I've been meaning to look into... Heat gun and re apply adhesive?

x2

[funky_snowman]

I've been kicking around dipping my wheels black as well. Looks great! How'd you remove the Audi emblem? This is something I've been meaning to look into... Heat gun and re apply adhesive?

the audi emblem and the chrome ring pop out of the center caps. just use a screwdriver or something and push out the tabs from the rear being careful not to break them. the audi emblem is more fragile than the chrome ring, but as long as you are careful and actually release the tabs completely before you yank anything out, it should be fine.

[4Ring]

the audi emblem and the chrome ring pop out of the center caps. just use a screwdriver or something and push out the tabs from the rear being careful not to break them. the audi emblem is more fragile than the chrome ring, but as long as you are careful and actually release the tabs completely before you yank anything out, it should be fine.

I used a thick tipped flat head to pop out the tabs. Wasn't extremely careful but enough to make sure they didn't break. They pop out real easy... piece of cake.

[leftovers]

So, if you aren't painting the inside of the wheel, are you specifically masking it off? Or are you just letting the overspray happen?

[4Ring]

So, if you aren't painting the inside of the wheel, are you specifically masking it off? Or are you just letting the overspray happen?

Just let it happen. Once your done with the project, take a rag and some paint thinner and it'll come right off..


Just about to lay my 4th coat on the remaining 3 wheels and I'm loving every second of it. Looks twice as better as the first wheel. Might have to redo the 1st one cuz its not as smooth as the other 3..

[A410]

Just let it happen. Once your done with the project, take a rag and some paint thinner and it'll come right off..


Just about to lay my 4th coat on the remaining 3 wheels and I'm loving every second of it. Looks twice as better as the first wheel. Might have to redo the 1st one cuz its not as smooth as the other 3..

If you are thinking of re-doing the first one... before you do, you could try experimenting with some clear coat to protect the dip which will also make it easier to clean since dirt won't stick to it as easily. Gives the dip a satin look instead of a flat look... and who knows, you might actually like it better.

[4Ring]

If you are thinking of re-doing the first one... before you do, you could try experimenting with some clear coat to protect the dip which will also make it easier to clean since dirt won't stick to it as easily. Gives the dip a satin look instead of a flat look... and who knows, you might actually like it better.

I like your thinking. I might try it out. I think i'll spray one of the center caps to see it just in case I decide to not redo the 1st one.


Ill be back with some photos soon.

[A410]

Well Plasti-dip actually makes a "glossifier", but I don't imagine it to be anything more than just your everyday clear-coat. Just go and buy a can of some regular clear and try it out. I am VERY interested to see these results if you do, because I wanted to try this on my wheels when I dip them here in a few weeks, but since you are already in the process, I'd love to see how well the clear would work on a dipped wheel [up]

[4Ring]

I got a can of clear coat already. I'll give it a shot.

Gonna wait for the last coat of dip to dry though so it'll be in about 3-4 hours.

[A410]

I got a can of clear coat already. I'll give it a shot.

Gonna wait for the last coat of dip to dry though so it'll be in about 3-4 hours.

Good deal... can't wait to see the result!

[4Ring]

Weird... I just posted and everything was deleted. Ok..

Anyways, I decided to clear coat after an hour wait (probably should've waited until that 3-4 hour mark but what the hay)

The clear coat definitely adds a slicker feel to it, there's no rubbery drag when running your finger across it. Also, the clear coat darkens the plasti dip as you can cleary see in the pic. One on the right is clear coated.


Here it is:

http://i778.photobucket.com/albums/yy62/1sicka4/photo82_zps9ec45918-1_zps91fdbfcc.jpg

[A410]

Wow, I'm def diggin' the clear coated version better. What type of clear did you use???

[4Ring]

And here's the rest of my wheels.

http://i778.photobucket.com/albums/yy62/1sicka4/photo81_zpsb43f46c4.jpg

Well? what'd you guys think.. I like [rolleyes]

[A410]

They def turned out nicely... great job

[4Ring]

Wow, I'm def diggin' the clear coated version better. What type of clear did you use???

I had a can of this stuff layin around - apparently its made for motocross vehicles like dirtbikes and atvs. but it worked nice. Ill just apply a small layer since I only have about a 3rd of can remaining..

http://i778.photobucket.com/albums/yy62/1sicka4/78-9944_zps0cb40d35.jpg

[4Ring]

They def turned out nicely... great job

Thanks bro - can't wait to mount em...lol

[A410]

I bet you can't! And yeah, a light dusting of clear would def be better than none in my opinion. Def will help when it comes time to wash those puppies

[4Ring]

Yep. Protection factor is def worth it... it'll keep all the mud & grime from eating away the dip. Good stuff. Well I guess

/thread

cheers

[funky_snowman]

One thing I've always wondered, are you guys spraying directly over the wheel weights, or taking them off? What happens when you get the wheels rebalanced?

[A410]

One thing I've always wondered, are you guys spraying directly over the wheel weights, or taking them off? What happens when you get the wheels rebalanced?

Sticky weights all day!

[funky_snowman]

so you pull the weights off, and put them back on? Or do you pull them off and have the wheel rebalanced, in which case do you adhere the weights directly to the plastidip? Seems like you'd have to get the wheels rebalanced either way given all of the crap being sprayed all over the wheel.

[A410]

so you pull the weights off, and put them back on? Or do you pull them off and have the wheel rebalanced, in which case do you adhere the weights directly to the plastidip? Seems like you'd have to get the wheels rebalanced either way given all of the crap being sprayed all over the wheel.

When they use the sticky weights on the inside of the wheel, they have no impact on painting them, if you spray the inside of your wheel (which I don't) just spray over them... but then you risk have a patch of unpainted area when the weights are removed. Also, I have never re-balanced my wheels after painting and have never had any problems.

[funky_snowman]

Well, you have to rebalance when you get new tires. Even then, tires need to be rebalanced as you put miles on them anyway. Do you remove the weights and then fill in the paint, pretend they aren't there, or strip and repaint every time you get new tires? It seems like not just painting them right the first time creates a lot of work in the long run, unless you are just going to deal with sketchy balance and then trash the wheels when your tires are done.

[A410]

Like I said, I personally don't paint the insides of my wheels, just the face of them. So for example, if I were to paint the face of them black, I would tape off/cover the inside of the rim to keep it the original color... so if you were to go and re-apply new sticky weights, it would be no different than if you hadn't painted your rim in the first place.

[funky_snowman]

That sounds like the best way to do it I guess.

I hate painting. All that taping things off, waiting for individual coats to dry, wet sanding, etc, just gets to me. I'm too impatient I guess. The most I've painted on this car is my center caps, and I ended up undoing a lot of it except the very center because I didn't like all of the black.

I do like the idea of plastidip, I've just never used it, so I don't know a ton about it or how people typically do things as far as painting wheels goes. By the time I do all of the prep work, it just seems like it makes more sense just to do a good job with regular paint. Of course, being able to relatively easily tear off the dip does present certain advantages.

[A410]

That sounds like the best way to do it I guess.

I hate painting. All that taping things off, waiting for individual coats to dry, wet sanding, etc, just gets to me. I'm too impatient I guess. The most I've painted on this car is my center caps, and I ended up undoing a lot of it except the very center because I didn't like all of the black.

I do like the idea of plastidip, I've just never used it, so I don't know a ton about it or how people typically do things as far as painting wheels goes. By the time I do all of the prep work, it just seems like it makes more sense just to do a good job with regular paint. Of course, being able to relatively easily tear off the dip does present certain advantages.

That's the amazing advantage of plasti-dip... it requires 1/4 of the prep work. You do not need to lay down any primer, although you can if you want to make the plasti-dip more permanent and to allow a stronger bond to the wheel. It's the best product to use IF you are inexperienced because it's completely reversible, it peels right off and if by chance you do have any trouble getting it off, which you shouldn't, the best way to remove it is with a pressure washer... it comes right off and you are back to exactly where you were before you started, no harm done... no re-sanding down again like you'd have to do with regular paint. You can also spray it directly onto the tire, so no taping off of the tire or the classic "index card" shield to prevent dip from getting on the tire, it peels right off the tire nice and easy. If you want to give your car a different look, but arent sure of how it will turn out, then DEF use plasti-dip.

[Ed Gein]

Beware of adding any non plasti dip clears. It will make removing the dip very hard.

[4Ring]

One thing I've always wondered, are you guys spraying directly over the wheel weights, or taking them off? What happens when you get the wheels rebalanced?

I had this same question when I was doing the project but like A410 stated, if you don't need paint the inside of your wheels, you just wipe the overspray off with paint thinner and it comes right off. But if you really wanted to, when re-balancing your wheels just use a little bit of dip to touch up the the areas where the weights used to be. As for the new weights, I'm sure they stick just fine on top of the coat of dip? If someone has any input that'd be great.


Beware of adding any non plasti dip clears. It will make removing the dip very hard.

^this, I haven't tried removing the clear off that center cap but I read similar elsewhere. Do at your own risk guys..

[AWDftw90]

Awesome, thanks for the post I have the same rims and looking to dip them soon. This has me sold!

[4Ring]

I have the same rims

Haha, don't we all?

No problem though, just remember:

1. heat cans in hot water
2. spray in warm, vented area (not too windy)
3. when spraying even coats, keep can about 6-8 inch away from the rim.

Good luck. [up]

[xmarcinx]

I plasti dipped my wheels back in the summer. It looked really cool when it was freshly put on, but I guess over the months it started to fade and collect brake dust so it started to look brownish. Decided to take it off the other day......never again. I don't know if it was because I didn't use that many cans, but it kept breaking when I was trying to peel it off. I have the 5 spoke wheels and trying to get the plastidip from the small crevices between the spokes is a bitch.

[A410]

^^ sounds like you didn't apply thick enough and try using a pressure washer next time. Peels it right off.

[AudiFan6482]

it will look a little funky after a while from washing and chemicals from car washing etc. the thing i found was a very basic solution, all you need to do when they dull out a lot is apply wet tire shine to bring the dip back to life. heck you can even use the shine to make your wheels glossy for a change. just clean them up really well then apply when dry. Presto!

[AudiFan6482]

here is a picture when i used some super tire shine(cant remember exact product) but it made them look gloss black for a few days.http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz305/audifan6482/IMG_2391.jpg

[A410]

Use turtle wax ice also. Makes plasti-dip shine.