View Full Version : Few codes? -Driver found

10-30-2012, 08:58 PM
So I got 99 aeb 1.8 turbo . 140K 5 speed.

For start I did timing belt kit(the good oem stuff) with bunch of other parts while I was there.(radiator,all seals around front shafts,water pump with housing,thermostat,tighten replace and add clamps, look 4 leaks,flush and g13 coolant,coolant reservoir, small vacuum lines,valve cover gasket and rear half moons, all accessory belts and tensioners.
The car since a got it had engine light on.Codes after initial reset (battery unplug ,touch the battery terminals 10 sec,connect all back on battery ,open door,30seconds key in ignition). The engine light would at first not go away, then it would disappear the next day, come back after a day after the second start up, and then stay permanently on.
So I'm sure codes are here to stay unless I figure them out.:

Auto-zone/Advanced auto parts Actron code reader:
P0103 MAF HIGH Input :
-noticed that the MAF was replaced with ONLY MAF insert as I could tell that the star screws was tempered with, and the MAF electronic insert look EXACTLY as my replacement after market part that I just got from MAFONLY on ebay.And after installing it ,it only made the idle much much worse.From small 2 sec rpm leveling at start up with the original tempered MAF , it would worsen to huge rpm drops, leveling slight vine up, drop and occasional stall with the new after market MAF insert....) So I lost confidence in after market as I expected.Installed back the original tempered MAF insert.The car have again the small blemish at the start up.
And the code is here to stay.

P0332 Knock Sensor Circuit low input ( Bank 2 )
Noticed the knock sensor was not attached to the block.It was zip tied and tucked away. Mounting it failed to improve an replacing it with new after market part did not change the situation in any way.
May be the after market parts are really bad. Or do I have deeper issue with tightening the knock sensor properly on the block(hart to get to but I did best I could),or should I clean the rusted surface of the block better(hart to get to but I did best I could) , wiring or computer connection or computer it self?

There was one more code.
p1136-MFG contrl fuel air metering
(and another code showed up after the aftermarket MAF experiment/failure that I expect to go away with reverting back to original MAF
P1127-MFG control fuel air metering)

I need to do vacuum test by pressurizing the Intake hose right after the MAF.
I suspect vacuum leak somewhere. note: Cruise control is not working. I read that I need to clamp the PCV valve to do so. The "hokey puck" needs to be camped on one or the other side? Which side and will cramping damage the house?

Any input appreciated.

Besides the codes.Car runs grate.Smooth quiet.

In another thread
Clutch kit choice ? -Driver found
Clutch grips way high up on pedal%93 released pedal ,and the trow out bearing makes noise and there is noticeable jerk between push and pull on the Dual Mass Fly wheel (as I suspect).