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View Full Version : Strange start/no start problem.



Vierings
10-29-2012, 08:32 AM
So yesterday morning I got in my car to head to work. Car started up no problem. As I was driving the radio turned off and on a few times then stopped and was fine the rest of my drive.
After work I went out to my car, got in and everything seemed normal. Tried to start my car. Fuel pump primed and then I heard the constant clicking that normally is a sign of a dead battery. I turned the car back off and let it sit for a second and tried again. This time it fired up normally, but my trip odo and stereo were reset as if the battery had been unhooked. At this time I also noticed that my fuel gauge was very slow to raise to the current level.
I started my drive home and my stereo reset its self a few times again and at one point my car seemed to die off on the freeway and kick back on instantly. During my drive home I saw the battery voltage meter quivering around 13 volts. Never got much lower or higher but the needle wasn't staying still either.
Stopped at my dads to pick up some stuff and wen I went back out to my car, same no start then start problem.

So I'm here checking my knowledge, my guess would be my main battery ground. It's the only thing I've done on the car electronically in months. Currently my ground runs from my battery tray to my exhaust manifold because the battery tray was pretty rusted. I noticed that when I first ran it there it got really hot and melted the plastic cover. I turned it outward so it didn't run over the exhaust anymore but I'm thinking the damage may have been done. Suggestions? Just replace that ground?
Reference, this is how the cable was grounded before it got hot.
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/ziggydub/2B411B5B-49CD-42B3-9CEB-F725F5BB332D-7477-000005E2290DAFDC.jpg

walky_talky20
10-29-2012, 08:58 AM
What other battery/chassis grounds do you have? Show us.

Also, I don't like your manifold ground...for various reasons.

Vierings
10-29-2012, 09:04 AM
That's the only battery ground I have.
It wasn't my first choice, but it was simple and got the job done. I've been planning on putting the battery in the trunk I've just had other priorities to settle first.

4A Play
10-29-2012, 03:55 PM
Nothing to do with grounds. It's your ignition switch. $45 at the dealer. Pull your column apart and replace it in an hour. The radio going in and out is the clue.

The switch being bad would cut the power in and out obviously.

Try me.

Vierings
10-29-2012, 04:33 PM
Nothing to do with grounds. It's your ignition switch. $45 at the dealer. Pull your column apart and replace it in an hour. The radio going in and out is the clue.

The switch being bad would cut the power in and out obviously.

Try me.

At 250k, I wouldn't be surprised by this.

walky_talky20
10-30-2012, 01:38 PM
That's the only battery ground I have.
It wasn't my first choice, but it was simple and got the job done. I've been planning on putting the battery in the trunk I've just had other priorities to settle first.

Wait. What about the large ground from the engine to the chassis? There should be a heavy ground cable that goes from the passenger side engine mount bracket to the frame rail. Is that still intact?

If so, then I'm inclined to lean toward the ignition switch as well. However, the portion of the ignition switch that handles the radio is not the same portion that handles the starter or engine running (the accessory side is separate). So I'm not all in on that, exactly. But something to check.

I still don't like the battery ground. It seems like an excellent transducer for heat from the screaming hot turbo directly into your battery. That doesn't seem like a good idea to me.

Vierings
10-30-2012, 02:36 PM
Sorry, I misunderstood you when you left it as battery/chassis grounds. Yes the frame rail ground is intact.

As for the ground where it is, again it's temporary. However I don't think the heat transfer is really that much if any more than normal. I feel like if it was doing that much the cable would bubble/melt and that only happened a tiny bit. It's been re-routed to run directly toward the fender and then back so it doesn't travel near the down pipe any more.

Vierings
11-02-2012, 01:26 PM
So my part no on my ignition switch is 4a0 905 849 and is all black.
The one I got from the dealer is 100 905 0020 is black/white but looks identical.
Based on the ecs website the white/black is newer. Anyone know if it will work?

4A Play
11-02-2012, 03:19 PM
The only way to know is to pull your old one. Apparently there is no way to tell as I ordered according to my date on the ECS website and was sent the wrong one. I called audi USA and they told me it was upgraded or recalled, don't remember but they couldn't access which vins were effected or tell me exactly which years were faulty. Something along those lines. I remember being pissed on the phone with them that they should be replacing it if it was discovered to be faulty.

I ended up having to go to the dealer and they had it for $15 more than ECS but it was Definetly the right part and it was in stock.

Idk why it is thought that the switch can't effect both the radio and starter/ engine. When mine went the starter solenoid was permanently engaged. It made the mot horrendous noise whenever the clutch was pressed in because the solenoid was out. The radio was also cutting in and out.

Good luck!

Vierings
11-02-2012, 03:43 PM
A friend at the dealership is getting me the right one. He wasn't able to answer if it would work so I thought I'd ask here.
New one won't be here till Monday so ill hope it keeps starting or borrow my brothers car till then.

4A Play
11-08-2012, 08:17 AM
Update?